Self repair home has always been difficult for beginners. But if you start with small volumes, then it is quite possible to move on to other rooms in the future. The only difficulty in repairing a toilet will be replacing the sewer system; the rest is much simpler than it seems at first glance. This material will tell you the best way to renovate a toilet yourself.
Video tutorial
Upgrading a toilet is no longer a hassle labor process. More painstaking and thoughtful work needs to be done before the renovation itself - this is the plan of the room itself, the layout of equipment, furniture, electrical wiring and sewer holes.
Before listing the required scope of work, let’s take a look at the video tutorial
Sequence of work
During repairs, a number of mandatory works are performed.
- Dismantling old renovations.
- Construction of partitions (if possible).
- Leveling the floor or screed.
- Ceiling installation.
- Replacement of pipes and wiring.
- External wall covering (painting, tiling).
After dismantling old cladding and, you need to install a sewer system.
It all starts with the installation of sewerage, and only then comes the plumbing. The drain pipe must be installed at a slope towards the riser. It follows from this that it is necessary to lay pipes before pouring the floor. Best suited for this plastic products, they are easy to use and have their own chemical properties very stable. Plastic pipes are easily cut with a grinder, after which the burrs are removed with emery. (Fig.1)
Connection and installation of plumbing
The last one ends with repair stage- This is plumbing installation. There are floor-standing and wall-hung toilet models. Wall-mounted ones are installed immediately, but floor-mounted ones must be installed on a new floor covering.
If the communications are located behind the wall, then it would be reasonable to place them under the blinds or plasterboard partition. In this case, you should make a hole in the wall for the drain pipe. (Fig.6)
As you can see, making an inexpensive toilet renovation with your own hands is not at all difficult. You can really do it yourself. Therefore, if you are still wondering where to start renovating your home, start with the toilet.
The toilet is one of the most visited places in the apartment, where, in addition to performing its main utilitarian function, you can retire and indulge in reflection. Therefore, it is important that this room is cozy, clean, comfortable, so that it is pleasant to be in it. In many apartments there are still old toilets with outdated plumbing and lining. And new construction and finishing materials have appeared in stores, which cannot but stimulate changes in the design of the bathroom. Since repairs involving construction crew- it’s quite an expensive undertaking, and the area of the room is usually small, then it’s worth trying to repair the toilet yourself - a person with “hands” can do it more or less.
Preparing for toilet renovation
First, you need to decide on the idea of the future appearance of the bathroom, as well as what kind of repairs are to be made - cosmetic or major. Redecorating provides only new finish walls, floor and ceiling - for example, you can paint the door, paint the ceiling or make it suspended, prime the walls, putty, paint or wallpaper. But if you’re going to start renovating a bathroom, you should do it thoroughly, with replacement of pipes, coatings and plumbing fixtures, and sometimes you can add new elements to the room or move existing ones.
Renovation ideas may be related to traditional look restroom, or they can suggest a new location for plumbing, furniture and communications. IN small room, for example, in a Khrushchev-era building, there will, of course, be fewer options than in a more spacious new house, but it doesn’t matter - with proper planning, you can profitably use every piece of space. You need to choose suitable finishing materials and think through the design, which we will discuss below. If you wish and space allows, you can install a small washbasin in the toilet - today on the market there is a choice of something that will suit the price and size. It would be useful next to the sink. Installing a corner toilet, especially in combination with a corner washbasin, will significantly free up space, but for this you will have to do more manipulations.
In a more spacious toilet you can put more useful furniture and equipment - a bidet, washing machine, hang cabinets, shelves, even place decorative elements. For beauty and convenience, it is worth considering masking communications and equipping a plumbing cabinet.
So, where to start with toilet repairs carried out on our own? The procedure is usually standard:
- determination with toilet design;
- selection and purchase of finishing and building materials;
- choosing the type and location of the toilet;
- replacement of riser and sewerage;
- cleaning the floor, walls, ceiling from old finishes;
- laying communications;
- repair of floors, walls and ceilings;
- floor finishing;
- toilet installation;
- installation of a plumbing cabinet, lighting, and other plumbing fixtures;
- other finishing works;
- finishing or replacing the door.
Selection of design and facing materials
The interior design of the toilet, depending on the size of its area, should be appropriate: visually expand a small area, narrow a large one. You can visually zoom in too close high ceilings. All this is possible with the help of some techniques of combining colors and textures.
Most often, toilet rooms in apartments are quite small and narrow. In this case, division will help to visually make it wider wall decoration horizontally into two parts - upper and lower with a border on about half the wall. In this case, the lower part should be darker or brighter, and the upper part should be more neutral and lighter. If the ceiling is too high, then vertical stripes running along the walls will help to visually bring it closer. They can be made solid or in the form of an interrupted line, as well as from some of the materials used in finishing the floor or completely different ones, to match the overall style.
It is not worth decorating the bathroom in only one color - the look will not be what is expected, and it will not add comfort.
It is better to choose materials of discreet, neutral colors with the addition of accessories in similar colors - this is more physiological for such a room, and it will be easier to remodel the interior with the advent of new ideas, and even with common style the design of the apartment will be easier to correlate. Plumbing can be chosen traditionally white or to match the color of the finish. Chrome accessories can also play an expansion role.
With a larger area, you can give free rein to your imagination a little, especially since modern ideas interior design allows this. Dark or bright colors finishes will visually narrow the room, and bright accessories will allow self-expression to manifest itself.
When choosing finishing materials for a bathroom, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the room, so such materials should be:
- moisture resistant;
- easy to clean, including with aggressive agents;
- do not absorb unpleasant odors;
- do not take up much space.
by the most suitable materials To decorate a toilet with your own hands, you can consider tiles, washable wallpaper, moisture-resistant paint, and plastic panels.
It is better to choose tiles from tiles, porcelain stoneware, the main thing is that the reverse side is white, that is, based on kaolin. It does not have as many micropores as tiles made from ordinary silicates, and does not absorb odors, which is very unpleasant in the toilet.
This finishing material is considered a classic for sanitary premises, as the tiles are easy to clean, they are strong, moisture-resistant, and durable. Choosing her on modern market is huge, and you can independently choose various original combinations. But you need to lay the tiles on perfectly smooth walls, and the price of such a finish will be the highest of all the options.
Wallpaper for the toilet should be moisture-resistant and easy to clean. Therefore, it is better to choose vinyl, non-woven, fiberglass. A new product on the finishing materials market is also suitable - liquid wallpaper, which also has necessary qualities, besides, they are easy to apply and have a wide variety of colors.
Bathroom paint is one of the budget options finishing, suitable for ceilings and walls. It is easy to apply even for a non-specialist; you can add different patterns and designs if desired. For the toilet, latex-based paint or mineral pigment paint with microcalcite filler is suitable. But coloring is carried out with perfect smooth walls ah, which requires their preliminary alignment.
Plastic panels are one of the cheapest options for finishing walls and ceilings. They are moisture-resistant, quick to install and easy to clean, have a variety of designs, and do not require perfectly flat walls. But given that the panels are mainly attached to the sheathing, they can steal part usable area toilet, which in a small room of 1.5-2 square meters would be completely inappropriate.
In addition to the materials described above, you can use moisture-resistant green plasterboard, plaster, followed by impregnation with a deep penetration primer.
Wooden and MDF panels are not suitable for bathroom cladding, paper wallpaper, ordinary drywall, silicate-based tiles (not white on the back side), paints with organic pigment and filler, foam panels for ceiling and regular concrete screed for the floor.
Preliminary cleaning of surfaces and replacement of communications
So, where to start renovating a toilet when the design is thought out and facing materials purchased? Now is the time to start dismantling old plumbing and coatings and, if necessary, replacement of risers and sewer pipes.
First you need to turn off the hot and cold water, make sure that there is no water flowing from the taps, then drain the water from the tank. Then proceed to dismantle the drain tank - the water supply hose is disconnected from it and from the water pipe, and then the tank itself is unscrewed from its fastenings. After this, you can begin dismantling the toilet. If the toilet was fixed to the floor with bolts or screws, then they are unscrewed with a key or a screwdriver and taken out of the room. If during installation you used concrete mortar, then in most cases old toilet just break it and replace it with a new one.
It's time to start removing old coatings from the floor, walls and ceiling. This is necessary so that the new cladding does not begin to peel off over time, and the old one has accumulated a lot of odors. Old tiles It is removed from the walls and floor using a hammer drill or, in its absence, a hammer and chisel. Paint can be removed using building hair dryer and a spatula, or a drill or sander with a round metal brush - it can also be removed upper layer plasters. A thicker layer of the latter is removed with a spatula, having previously soaked the surface. The same method is also suitable for removing old wallpaper.
After removing the old cladding, the surfaces need to be well leveled, the debris taken out, brushed again, and best of all, a powerful vacuum cleaner is used to remove all the dust. After this, a deep penetration antiseptic primer is applied, preferably in two layers - the second after the first has dried.
You should consider waterproofing the floor in case of possible accidents and water leaks, in order to avoid flooding of the lower floors. Most accessible - coating waterproofing, applied to the joints of walls and floors with a width of 15-18 cm, waterproofing tape is glued to it directly while drying. After the joints have dried, this mixture is applied to the entire floor.
After the above-described manipulations, you can begin to replace the pipes. It is best to replace old metal pipes with propylene ones - they are more resistant to aggressive substances. It is better to replace the sewer riser completely in the entire entrance, especially if it is old and has been in use for a long time - this must first be organized together with the neighbors. Replacing part of the riser will be much more troublesome. If you do not plan to install water filters and water meters, then simply install new ones plastic pipes in place of the old ones.
For a more aesthetic appearance, plumbing and sewer pipes hidden in a special plumbing cabinet, which is constructed from wooden or metal profiles, leveled and fastened together with self-tapping screws. The structure is sheathed with moisture-resistant green plasterboard, which can be decorated with other finishing materials. Separate boxes can be built for sewer riser and for ventilation, having previously equipped it exhaust fan. It is imperative to consider the location of the inspection door in order to provide access to the pipes in case of leaks, and simply for taking readings from instruments.
Repair of floors, walls and ceilings. Lighting selection
Repairing a toilet with your own hands after cleaning the surfaces of old coatings and replacing communications continues with leveling and finishing the floor.
The floor in the toilet is simpler and best done by self-leveling - a liquid polymer finishing is also used for this. With the help of special tools, the prepared solutions are quickly leveled - one day after the other. Considering the area of the toilet, the price of such finishing will be quite affordable.
Self-leveling 3D floors
Finishing the floor with ceramic tiles remains one of the best and most practical options for the bathroom, but the process of laying it is more labor-intensive. It can be laid on old concrete or new cement screed.
As an option, you can lay marmoleum - a natural linoleum that has bactericidal properties, which is suitable for the bathroom.
The height of the floor in the toilet should be 2-3 centimeters lower than the general floor level in the apartment. This is necessary in order to retain water for some time in case of flooding, which may have time to save the situation.
Repairing walls can consist of several stages, depending on their original condition and the desired appearance. If they are uneven, then you must first level them using putty or sheets of drywall (preferably waterproof). Drywall sheets are attached to the wall using special glue, or to a thin wooden crate if the walls have significant unevenness. The selected wall finish is applied on top of the prepared surface - we talked about it above.
Ceiling repairs are carried out in the same way as in other rooms. Having leveled it, if necessary, using putty, you can apply paint with a suitable composition, or finish it with PVC panels, having first attached the lathing. If desired, you can build suspended ceiling from drywall, on which LED spotlights will look good.
If you are going to add beauty to the toilet, you should not ignore the lighting in it. The commonly used chandelier with a light bulb above the door produces too dim and dim light. A large sconce on the wall or a spot one will look much better LED lightening under the ceiling. When choosing lamps it is worth considering general design bathroom and its area - a small room needs bright light.
Installation of plumbing in the toilet
The final moment of the repair is the installation of the toilet and other plumbing fixtures, if any. After carefully studying the manufacturer's instructions, you can handle the process yourself. Floor standing toilet is installed in a pre-selected place, or where it was previously, the mounting location is outlined with a marker, and holes for fastenings are drilled. Trying on a new one corrugated pipe to the toilet and to the sewer pipe opening. Having attached the toilet to the floor, you can install the corrugation; all joints should be well treated with sealant. Having understood the design of the cistern, it is connected to the water pipes.
If a wall-hung toilet is selected, it is mounted on a special triangular bracket, which is constructed in advance. The bracket frame is either mounted into the screed of the self-leveling floor, or attached to the floor with anchor pins. All unnecessary elements are hidden in the plumbing closet.
Having formed an impression of the toilet renovation, you can get down to business, saving money and getting valuable experience, which can be useful when working on larger projects.
Sooner or later, any person is faced with toilet repair in one way or another. You can entrust this work to professionals, or you can save money and do it yourself. In this article we will analyze in detail what work is ahead and in what sequence it is best to carry it out.
Any enterprise begins with a comparison of desires and capabilities. If finances allow, then the boundaries of desires are very conditional. We will talk about decent toilet repairs with our own hands on a minimal budget. This is the foundation of the further story.
Planning the process itself has a clear sequence:
- Complete cleaning of the premises;
- Replacement of plumbing communications and electrical wiring;
- Preparation of surfaces for finishing work;
- Finish:
- Paul;
- Sten;
- Ceiling.
- Installation of plumbing.
Point zero should be set to “Design development and procurement of materials.” But this can create confusion. Therefore, describing each stage, we will justify the advantages of certain materials. For objectivity, we took the cost of all finishing elements from YandexMarket.
Cleaning the premises
Complete renovation, declares absolute cleaning of the room. There should be nothing left in it except the pipes of the common riser.
The sequence must also be observed. First, they knock off the tiles from the walls. Depending on the quality of the connection, this can be done with a hammer drill in the “chisel” mode or with a simple ax, using it as a spatula. They go along bare walls with a drill with a brush attachment.
Explanation: new tile It is quite possible to lay it on the old coating. But in this case, it will subtract 3-5 cm from the height of the room.
Only after this the whitewash is washed off from the ceiling. At the same time, wash away dust from the walls and floor.
The plumbing is dismantled last. To do this, turn off the water supply to the toilet tank, unscrew the fastener and remove the toilet drain outlet from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is very old, then you will have to break it out, since the drain has been sealed cement mortar. The entrance to the sewer pipe is cleared of pieces of sanitary ware and cement.
Before finishing work, put a plastic bag over the hole and tie it with a rope.
Explanation: Dismantling the toilet allows you to create a solid floor covering, without painstaking cutting and fitting of tiles. In addition, the toilet can be easily replaced later.
Replacement of communications and wiring
Replacing a water riser yourself is never done in practice. The reason is the need to shut off the water supply in the entire riser, and this is the prerogative of plumbers from the service organization. But the more important factor is time and guarantees.
Replacing riser pipes with your own hands without professional skills will require leaving residents without water for the whole day. It is unlikely that your neighbors will tolerate this. Specialists will cope with this task much faster.
The quality of the work performed has a deeper implication. If the riser is replaced by specialists from the housing office, upon an official request, then in the event of leaks or any emergency, the responsibility will fall on the installers. Otherwise, you will have to pay for repairs to flooded apartments.
But you have the right to choose the material for the riser within your apartment. most accessible and quality material– polypropylene pipes reinforced with fiberglass. They are suitable for both hot and cold water.
You can do the wiring around the apartment yourself. The best material for this purpose is corrugated stainless steel. The price is more expensive than a metal-plastic pipe or polypropylene pipes, but then you get:
- Savings on corners;
- Aesthetic appearance;
- Virtually unlimited service life;
- Extremely easy installation.
The cost of 1 meter of corrugated stainless steel pipe ø 16 mm is 92 rubles. An important condition durable service is the use of brass fittings.
Electrical wiring will require modernization if you want to install several lamps in a miniature toilet. And this happens extremely rarely.
Very good decision There will be installation of a tubular energy-saving lamp above the entrance, parallel to the doorway. In this situation, you don’t have to touch the wiring.
Preparing surfaces for finishing
As a result of this point, all surfaces should be smooth and even. The easiest thing to do is with the floor. For leveling you will need to use a quick-drying self-leveling screed. For 1m2, with a thickness of 1 cm, 13-14 kg of dry mixture will be required. For a toilet, 1 bag is enough, weighing 25 kg and costing 400 rubles.
The floors are first primed. We recommend immediately priming the walls and ceiling.. The mixture is diluted according to the instructions on the package and poured. To avoid making too thick a layer, spread it out a little with a spatula. The complete hardening process takes 24 hours.
Leveling the walls in the toilet is a relative task. The fact is that in such a small area, littered walls are extremely rare. Therefore, if the walls of the toilet are concrete, then a primer is enough, and if they are plastered brick, then putty will be required.
For putty you need:
- Working spatula 30 cm long;
- Auxiliary spatula 5 cm long;
- Putty mixture 20 kg (Weber: Vetonit 310 r);
- Drill with attachment and container.
The setting time of the putty is cement based≈ 90-120 min. Dilute 2-3 kg of dry mixture, following the instructions on the package. Then, using a short spatula, apply a small amount of solution to the long spatula. Applying the working tool at an angle of 20-30˚, spread the mixture along the wall from bottom to top. Consistently apply new portions of the mixture.
By adjusting the angle between the wall and the spatula, you can achieve different effects. With an acute angle, cracks and depressions are filled, with an angle close to straight, the applied composition is leveled.
Excess material spreading to the edges of the tool is collected with a short spatula and applied again to a long spatula.
Don't try to achieve a perfectly smooth surface in one pass. After treating all the walls and waiting 3-4 hours, you can go over the problem areas again.
Take Special attention corners. Sagging and rounding are not allowed on them. It is not necessary to achieve geometric accuracy in all corners; they will be covered with finishing materials, but excess in them should be removed.
After a day, the walls can be sanded to obtain quality coating for further work.
The final chord of this stage is priming the prepared walls and floor.
There is almost always a slab on the ceiling, so other than priming, no preparation is required.
Finishing work
floors
The specifics of the room limits the choice of flooring. Of all the options, only self-leveling floors and tiles are suitable for the toilet.
Self-leveling floors look attractive, but they have two huge drawbacks:
- High price;
- A very complex work process.
If you use them, it is better in a place where they are visible. In the toilet, they will be hidden. So, there is only one option left - tiles.
Considering that the toilet has been dismantled and the base has been prepared, laying tiles in the toilet with your own hands is an extremely easy process. Choosing tiles is a very sensitive issue. We have no right to advise on color and design, but we will help you figure it out with sizes.
The dimensions of a standard toilet in an apartment are 0.8 by 1.2 m. For ease of work, try to find a tile that fits into these dimensions without waste, for example 40 x 30 or 40 x 40. In this case, you will need to glue only 8 or 6 elements . Please note that what less quantity elements in the mosaic, the easier the work is done. And for the price, this choice will be quite acceptable. For example, from the manufacturer CERROL, in the Nero (Black) series, 1 m 2 tiles measuring 40x40 will cost 1,304 rubles. Enough for the toilet and there will be practically no waste left.
There is another option for lightly finishing the floor in the toilet - mosaic tiles. These are ceramic tiles measuring 2 x 2 cm, glued to a backing. By choosing the size of the sheet, you can cover the entire area in 2-3 steps. But this option, subsequently, will not manifest itself in the best way.
The fact is that small elements of the floor covering visually reduce the size of the toilet.
Tile adhesive "Unis 2000" in a 5-kilogram package will help you cope with the task perfectly. Its price is 130 rubles. Consumption ≈ 4-5 kg/m2.
You will also need:
- Notched trowel;
- Crosses;
- Laser level;
- Square.
The thickness of the crosses is no more than 1-2 mm. In a small room, large seams will not look aesthetically pleasing.
The method of laying tiles is direct. The toilet is too small a room to put a beautiful pattern in it.
Work progress:
Dissolve the glue according to the instructions on the package. If you followed our advice and chose a large tile, then knead the entire package. While the mixture is swelling (4-5 minutes), adjust the laser level so that the horizontal beam is projected at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor. TIP: it is most convenient to place it on a horizontal sewer pipe. Everyone has laser levels The head is self-leveling, so even if there is a slight tilt, the beam will still show the true horizon.
The floors are being swept. Apply the finished adhesive onto the tiles with a notched trowel. Please note: the glue must be spread over the entire surface. This will not only increase the adhesion area, but will also allow you to drill holes for attaching the toilet in the future without fear of splitting the tiles. The thickness of the adhesive composition should not exceed the thickness of the tile! Place the tile in place. It is better to start gluing from the wall opposite to the entrance. Move the glued element with an amplitude of 2-3 mm.
By successively applying a square to each corner of the tile, compare the level at which the laser beam is projected. If necessary, straighten the tiles.
Glue the second tile in the same way, level it and then insert the crosses. There should be 2 crosses on each side of the tile.
With proper planning, you will only need to trim the tiles once to get around the riser pipes. To do this, it is best to use a grinder with a cutting disc. ATTENTION: the disk must be specialized, without radial cuts.
Use a tape measure to measure the distance you need to cut. Most likely, this will be a corner sector. Set aside the resulting dimensions on the front surface of the tile.
Tip: stick on tiles masking tape, it is more convenient to mark on it.
Place the tile on flat surface and fix it. When working with an angle grinder, be sure to use glasses!
You need to cut through, so there should be a soft material (wooden block or two pieces of gypsum board).
The cut edge can be sanded.
If there are gaps of 1-2 cm, then distribute them evenly so that they fall between the tiles and the wall. Subsequently, they will be covered with wall finishing materials.
According to the diagram outlined, all floor tiles are glued. After a day, you can walk on it and at this time they begin to grout the joints. The optimal material for filling gaps between tiles is silicone sealant. It is easy to work with, and after drying it produces an elastic seam with impeccable hygienic characteristics.
To work, you only need white silicone sealant in a tube and a lint-free cloth.
Cut off the spout of the tube so that the thickness of the silicone that comes out is minimal. Insert the container of sealant into the gun and apply even pressure along one of the seams. Excess silicone protruding outward is removed with a slightly moistened cloth. The gaps must be filled flush.
The silicone should cure within 3-5 hours. Then you should lay cardboard on the floor, and you can start finishing the walls.
Walls
Wall decoration is possible in two materials: ceramic tile or wall panels. In principle, we do not consider painting and whitewashing, and other materials have low moisture resistance.
Tiles are a traditional option for the toilet. It looks presentable and lasts a very long time. But there are points on which she is inferior plastic panels. In particular, PVC panels:
- Cheaper;
- Glue easier, faster, do not require professional skills;
- Models with 3D effect look gorgeous;
- You can easily change and “refresh” the appearance;
There is one more nuance that can influence your choice. In the toilet, you will need to close the water riser. If you use wall panels, you can easily and preliminary preparation to cover this unsightly need with them.
In addition to everything, you can improve the appearance if you choose wall panels 40 cm wide, just the size of the tiles. All finishing will take on the appearance of a finished composition.
For fixation wall panels Liquid nails are required. We recommend using “Moment Installation”.
For work you will need:
- Bathroom wall panels;
- Liquid nails with a gun;
- Hacksaw for metal;
- Construction knife;
- Tape measure and marker.
The panels begin to be glued from the place where they fit entirely, without cutting to width. Measure the height and set aside required size on the panel. When sawing off excess metal with a hacksaw, make sure that the lamella does not bend or break at the very end of the cut.
The glue is applied in continuous strips along the entire length, the diameter of the emerging roller is 4-5 mm. There should be a distance of 5-7 cm between each strip of glue. Immediately place the panel in place and move it slightly from side to side to spread the glue. But immediately remove this panel and give it a shutter speed of 3-4 minutes. This is required for the adhesive composition to interact with oxygen in the air.
After curing, the panel is glued. To control the vertical position of each plank, use a plumb line. Press the lamella firmly for 30-40 seconds and move it a little
All panels are fixed in a similar way. But to bypass the water riser, proceed as follows.
Explanation: Between the front and back sides of each plank there are stiffening ribs. If you cut the back side of the panel along the entire length along these edges, then it can be bent and the rounded areas can be pasted over.
In the place where the riser is located, on the back side of the panel the back sheet is cut off along with the stiffening ribs. Additionally, trim lower part, where the sewer pipe discharges. To make a neat exit water pipes, they are unscrewed from the shut-off valve on the riser. And a hole is made on the panel according to the size of the outlet itself. Such an operation can only be carried out if you work with wide panels!
A horizontal sewer pipe can be covered with scraps of wall panels, leaving a hole for connecting the toilet.
This option for decorating the walls in the toilet will avoid the use end strips. After all, the edges near the entrance will be covered with a door casing.
Instead of a plinth, glue a strip. By appearance, this is the same baseboard for a bathtub, only narrow.
Ceiling
TO decorative finishing ceiling in the toilet, when the walls and floor are already decorated, you should proceed as the final chord that will complete the entire composition. If there are large dark tiles on the floor and dark panels on the walls, then the ceiling should be white and gold.
There are two options, this rack ceiling or PVC ceiling panels. In terms of appearance of the finished coating, they will practically not differ. But the slatted ceiling will “steal” at least 7 cm from the height, due to the fastening system. And its installation will take an order of magnitude longer.
With ceiling PVC panels the whole process will take 40-50 minutes.
Considering that they will look the same, a sane person will choose PVC ceiling panels.
Using the example of two-section strips with gold, produced by Olympia, we will describe the installation process. The width of the lamellas is 24 cm, the length is 3 m. The price of one plank is 180 rubles. 2 panels are needed for the ceiling in the toilet.
They are glued to the same “Moment Montage”. The lamellas are adjusted in length and glued, starting from the entrance, according to the technology described above.
Around the box covering the riser, the panels are cut with a construction knife.
Plumbing installation
Installation of plumbing consists of two stages:
- Installation of a toilet with a tank;
- Connection to the system.
The option with a wall-hung toilet is not even accepted for consideration. Its miniature size is just a marketing ploy to increase sales and create another group of products. After all, the mounting system and cistern of a wall-hung toilet will require at least 20 cm from the back. In other words, the dimensions of the toilet will actually become 0.8 x 1 m.
Therefore, we will install a regular toilet. To attach it, you will need to drill 2 or 4 holes in the floor. In this case, you first need to drill the tiles. This can be done with a diamond-coated tubular drill by switching the hammer drill to the “drilling” mode.
Having passed the tiles, switch the hammer drill to the “chipping” mode and place the drill.
Dowels are driven into the holes using a mallet and the toilet is secured through plastic washers.
TIP: Apply silicone caulk to the base of the toilet. After pressing it to the floor, excess silicone will be squeezed out and must be removed immediately. But such sealing will not allow water to penetrate under the toilet itself during wet cleaning.
To connect the toilet drain hole to the entrance to the sewer pipe, a corrugated adapter is used.
Water supply hoses to the tank, in modern models, have a sealing rubber gasket and do not require winding. Additionally, plastic lugs are integrated into the hose heads, allowing you to do without an adjustable wrench.
Summer is a time not only for vacations, but also for renovations. Everyone wants to put their apartment in order, but not everyone has enough money to do this: the crisis has passed only in words, but in reality “things are still there.” But we are Slavs, which means we’ll get out of it, because the saying “no need for inventions is cunning” really works.
Today we will look at the cheapest (oh, sorry - the most economical) option for repairing a toilet. So!
Toilet- this is not only (pardon the expression) a latrine: it is a place where not only you, but also your guests go. And if the toilet has ragged walls, cracked tiles, and there are holes on the floor, then such a place can be called a toilet purely hypothetically: in fact, such a place is easier to call a “toilet” or “stove” (excuse the expression). Naturally, after visiting such an “attraction” your guests will have a not very positive opinion of you - fact!
How to correct the situation in this matter?
It's clear that repairs are needed. But, as mentioned just above, the money for expensive tiles, plumbing, etc., you may simply not have: all this costs a fair amount. But did you know that if you need to renovate a toilet, you can get by with a fairly small amount of money?
How? Let's look;
There is no need to install expensive tiles in the toilet
- Firstly, this repair option has long become boring and even if the tiles are very beautiful, it’s still just a banal tile.
- And secondly, why spend money on tiles when you can buy regular foam tiles for this purpose?
Yes, yes: those same patterned tiles that are glued to the ceiling! Advantages this option face repairs:
1 incredibly low cost;
2 very small specific gravity, which will allow you to significantly reduce repair time: foam tiles do not “float”, they do not need to be constantly held and adjusted;
3 adhesive paste for gluing foam tiles is very inexpensive;
4 no need to buy grout separately: as a grout for joints, use the same paste on which you glued the tiles;
5 tiles come in different color shades, so there is no need to glue them white tiles: there is turquoise, blue, yellow, etc.;
6 foam tiles are very easy to cut to size (unlike tiles, which are very difficult to cut even with a tile cutter). In general, continuous advantages!
The only thing that is required of you is to make the walls even. To do this, knock down the old tiles
(or remove old paint) and, using the “level”, perform an algorithm for leveling the walls using mortar.
The smoother the walls are, the cooler the foam tiles will look on those walls!
After pasting the walls with foam plastic ceiling tiles, do not forget to glue the top plinth (padogu): so to speak, for a better “calico”
The ceiling, of course, should also be covered with the same tiles. In general, everything ingenious is not only simple, but also economical, fast, understandable and beautiful!
And the last tip: if you want to visually increase the area of the toilet,then put blue tiles on the floor!
DIY toilet installation
Rarely when we go to visit friends, we admire how the toilet is installed in the toilet. But, when we need to use the services of a restroom, then we can appreciate the convenience of this required element. Is it difficult to install a toilet yourself? Let's try to figure this out.
First, decide on the toilet model. Pay attention to the fastening systems in the product design. Basically they are the same, but in some cases they may differ. Attention should also be paid to preparatory work. So, let's get to work.
Preparatory work
Before you install new toilet, decide which method you will use to secure it. The simplest is to screw it to the floor using strong dowels with filler. It is important that the intended location is level. Otherwise, when tightening the bolts or screws more tightly, the mounting ears in the toilet will simply burst.
Another method of attaching a toilet is cement pouring. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the screed is sufficiently thick. Otherwise, it won’t withstand the load - and then it can turn out very funny.
Before installing the toilet, you must check the communications in advance. The water supply must be at the required distance to the cistern. The sewage system must also be in good condition (pipes must be sealed and have the required slope). All this needs to be taken care of in advance so that later you don’t have to remove the toilet every now and then to carry out the necessary work.
Toilet installation
After we have prepared the base for the toilet and checked all suitable communications, we can proceed directly to the installation of the “chair”. Before attaching it to the base, we connect the drain pipe. Thanks to modern technologies this can be done quite quickly and without any difficulty. To do this, you can use a corrugated siphon. If the flush tank requires fastening directly to the toilet structure, be especially careful. Even with small cracks or chips, such toilet models become unusable.
Some additionally process the connecting gaskets silicone sealants. This will provide maximum protection against leakage. Drain pipe there is no need to process such materials, as this may complicate repair work, if such are required. Besides, everything connecting elements fit perfectly in size to each other. They are also equipped with rubber gaskets that provide protection against leakage. There is no need to worry that the pipe is not securely fastened. The fact is that pressure is not created in the sewer system. Therefore, such connecting systems are quite reliable.
In case if cistern is attached to the toilet itself, care must be taken to ensure that it is not broken by those who will use the “services” of the toilet. The fact is that when a person sits on the toilet, he can automatically lean his back against the raised lid. As a result, negative pressure is exerted on the tank, and it can come off the mount. Therefore, it is recommended to install such toilets near the wall of the room. Even if someone leans their back against the tank, it will not break.
Quickly and inexpensively repair a toilet with your own hands + photo ideas. To obtain an excellent result, skill alone is not enough - theoretical knowledge is also required. If you want to master the technology of finishing work, then doing a toilet renovation yourself will be an excellent training, since the small area of the room will help save both time and money, and you will also have the opportunity to practice various types works.
Naturally, the design and renovation of a toilet can be carried out according to a variety of plans, but in this article you will find the simplest and most popular option, which takes into account the preparation of the room for renovation, cladding with, and installation of hanging ceiling structure, and installation of plumbing.
So, we are dealing in a small room, for example, 1.2 * 0.85 meters. Therefore, we need to carry out the most compact design option, and at the same time use materials that are affordable and not the most difficult to work with. When making a choice about where exactly to start working in the toilet, you should assess the condition of the room, and if it becomes clear that a complete reconstruction is needed to bring the room into an acceptable appearance, first of all you will need to remove the old finish.
For this:
Laying communications
On this stage you should start laying out all the communications that will be responsible for the work sanitary unit. This includes sewer pipes, as well as water supply pipes and electrical wires.
Note, that in typical panel buildings very often it is in the toilet that there are vertical pipes with hot and cold water. In order not to carry out a complete reconstruction, it is in this place that the distribution unit should be laid, and all pipe bends should be hidden in a special cabinet in a box.
When doing renovations in a toilet with your own hands using photo ideas, you should:
Important! You should consider in advance whether you need a boiler. If necessary, lay out the pipework in advance for its further installation.
- The wiring for installing sockets for the boiler should also be laid in a groove. For lighting on the ceiling, we run the cable in a plastic corrugated channel, which can be fixed with wire hangers.
- A box can be formed from a timber impregnated with an antiseptic or a metal profile in order to disguise risers, pipe routing and other elements. It is necessary to sheathe the box only before finishing, so as not to damage the gypsum board during work. This is where the preparation ends.
Finishing
Ceiling
When you think about what kind of renovation to make, you should first think through and approve the order of finishing work. Specialists can work according to the most different schemes, but it's still best to go from top to bottom to minimize the chance of contamination or damage finishing, and then you won’t have to waste time masking already finished surfaces.
For these reasons, it is better to start from the ceiling:
- Along the perimeter of the room in the upper part, beat off a straight line at a distance of 5-7 cm from the ceiling. Please note that the indentation will depend on the size of the recessed lamps. If you are installing light bulbs small size, 4 cm is enough.
- Install along the line on the walls start profile made of galvanized steel, or timber.
- For later, use metal hangers to attach the guides - they can also be made from timber or a metal profile. Installation and fixation of parts to the wall is carried out with dowels for quick installation.
- After the work is completed, you can run wires over the frame to the installation location of the lamp.
- To the profile, which is fixed along the entire perimeter, attach a special ceiling plinth with grooves for plastic panels. To attach to wood, use galvanized staples, which can be hammered in using a construction stapler.
- The most practical and inexpensive option is covering the ceiling with plastic panels. PVC lining cut to size, and then install on the ceiling - we insert the ends into the grooves of the plinth, and fix the edges of the locks on the frame beams using a stapler.
- Then make a hole in the plastic panel through which you can bring out the wires for connection lighting device. Usually we install the devices themselves at the end of the repair, so as a temporary structure for lighting, use an incandescent lamp socket, which is taped to the wires with electrical tape.
Walls
After the work on the ceiling is completed, you can begin to work on the walls. Repairing a toilet with your own hands also involves finishing, and most often tiles are purchased for these purposes - the small area makes it possible to minimize purchasing costs and reduce labor costs, but the finishing is durable and hygienic.
The sequence of work is as follows:
- Check the walls with building level, and if necessary, level the rough coating. For good cladding, it is very important that differences on the surface are no more than 0.5 cm per 1 m, and anything less than this can be compensated for by the thickness of the adhesive layer.
Note, that during leveling it is advisable to start knocking down all the protrusions using a hammer drill, and then grind the surface. The fact is that plastering in a room such as a bathroom is inconvenient, time consuming and even expensive!
- Treat the walls with an antiseptic primer - it will not only help improve the adhesion of the glue, but will also prevent the appearance of fungus under the tiles.
- Cover the frame of the box, which is made to cover the pipes, with moisture-resistant plasterboard (green).
Then soak the tiles in water for about a couple of hours. This life hack will make it possible to greatly improve the adhesion of tiles to glue, and this is important, especially if you have little experience and work extremely slowly.
- Doing adhesive mixture, for this you need to dilute the dry powder in cold water. The glue should be thoroughly mixed using a drill with an attachment - we do this at least twice so that there are no lumps.
After this, you can begin facing:
- Take a building level and mark the surface of the walls, drawing lines along the bottom edge of all rows. Make indents between the rows - the thicker the tiles, the wider the seams can be made.
- Using a float, apply glue to the wall. Use the serrated side to form grooves so that the mixture is evenly distributed.
- Do not apply glue to too large an area, be guided by how quickly you complete the work - the surface with the adhesive composition should not dry out under any circumstances!
- According to the markings, we lay the tiles against the wall, press them and level them. Carefully remove excess glue with a spatula.
- To keep the seams the same size, install plastic crosses.
Tiles should be laid in rows, from top to bottom. To obtain beautiful drawing, you can lay the tiles offset, but then each piece must be shifted by ½ the width. The accuracy of installation should be checked using a plumb line and a building level, and if necessary, adjust the position of the tiles, as well as add or remove glue.
When everything is dry, all that remains is to wash the lining and wipe it with a clean cloth. If you do everything carefully during the process, it won't take that much time in the end.
Floor
Before carrying out DIY floor repairs in the toilet, a condition assessment was carried out. Most often it is necessary to restore the waterproofing layer of the floor, so the first part of the work will need to be completed before finishing the walls.
- To begin, clean the base again from debris and dust, and then impregnate it with a penetrating primer.
- After this, apply a waterproofing mastic based on your hands. liquid rubber or bitumen. This layer will protect against leaks. The material should extend slightly onto the walls!
- Pour a leveling screed over the waterproofing with a thickness of up to 5 cm. To do this, you can use a self-leveling compound with rapid hardening - the price is of course higher, but time will also be saved.
- After the screed has dried, you can treat the surface with a primer.
- For work we use only floor tiles, since they are not too slippery and much more. The use of wall tiles will lead to a new renovation in the next couple of years.
- Using a float, apply cement-based tile adhesive to the base. Distribute the composition evenly and you can begin cladding.
- The tiles should be laid either in rows or in order.
- As with wall trim, keep gaps the same size using cross stitches.
At the end of the work, the glue should dry, and then you can grout the seams, dry the grout, wash and wipe the floor dry.
Cost of consumables
To find out how much the renovation will cost, you should know the area of the toilet, as well as the materials that will be used, and whether you will carry out the finishing work yourself or contact specialists. Even with the most accurate calculations, you should budget for approximately 25% of the total amount for additional expenses. The price of tiles varies widely, as there is both a budget segment and very expensive models. Interestingly, although the water supply fittings themselves small size, their cost is impressive. In addition, when calculating how to make repairs in the toilet, keep in mind that you will need such little things as sealant, gaskets, fasteners, etc.
Conclusion
Toilet repair is, in a sense, a testing ground for testing yourself as a novice finisher, builder, electrician and plumber. If you follow the recommendations given, as well as a step-by-step video of a DIY toilet renovation with photo ideas, you will succeed, and in the future you will be able to cope with other, more complex projects.
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