I am interested in growing adeniums from seeds, this is a very exciting activity. But I also learned how to vaccinate in order to quickly propagate interesting varieties, mostly terry, the so-called triplets. It is the grafting that guarantees the purity of the variety. But when growing from seeds, it is not worth talking about the grade of adeniums. It is not right.
From a botanical point of view, adenium varieties are not varieties at all, they are hybrids. With seed propagation, their decorative features are not preserved, and flowering in this case will always be a surprise. But hybrids attract flower growers because there is always a chance to grow something unusually interesting and amazing. Therefore, when buying seeds, I do not advise you to believe beautiful Internet pictures, moreover, very often they are made using Photoshop. However, in recent years, many nurseries have begun to carry out manual pollination and this often increases the percentage of inheritance of the original forms and color of flowers, so that there is still a small percentage of obtaining the declared one.
When germinating seeds, if you dose the crops with drops, you can hardly hope for effective germination. In their homeland, adenium seeds begin their life journey precisely in the rainy season, so at this stage you should not be afraid of waterlogging. Up to three months, this does not threaten seedlings. I germinate seeds only in pure coco soil. And so far I have not found anything better for myself. It is quite breathable, holds moisture well, and most importantly, sterile. Does not contain diseases of the earth. Seed germination is always very good. I transplant seedlings usually in 2-3 weeks.
Good nutrition is the key to success
For some reason, many flower growers consider adenium akin to cacti and grow it as a desert plant. Yes, adenium is called the "desert rose" and it is a succulent, but not a cactus. Adenium loves to "eat" and "drink". So it makes no sense to keep it on a starvation diet, especially if you want to grow a good caudex (caudex is the thickening roots that push the matured adenium out of the ground. A beautiful caudex makes the adenium look like a bonsai) . It is the caudex that attracts me to them.
The key to success in growing adeniums is the right composition of the soil. Therefore, I prepare the soil quite nutritious, but always well air and moisture permeable. For growing seedlings, I use humus and coconut soil in equal proportions, I add somewhere else a quarter of perlite. Be sure to add a powder fraction of AVA long-acting fertilizer to the soil (already directly in a cup or pot) in the zone of future roots (its effect is calculated for a year). So in the process of growth, I practically do not feed my adeniums with anything else. In order not to have problems with plant diseases, I always prepare the soil in advance (2-3 weeks before planting) and add Fitosporin-M powder (10 g per bucket of soil) to it, which allows me to “cleanse” the soil from bacterial and fungal infections.
How to care
In the summer I water the plants quite abundantly, as the topsoil in the pot dries out. Reduce watering in winter. I water adult adeniums every 10 days, "kids" - more often. Temperature plays a big role here. My plants overwinter on the windowsills of the east and south windows, without additional lighting. In winter, hypothermia is detrimental to adeniums, especially when the soil is wet, therefore, in order to keep their “legs” warm, I cover the window sill with insulating and insulating material. In severe frosts at night, I put the pots from the window sills into the room.
Mature plants are transplanted annually. At the same time, I always raise the upper part of the caudex above the ground. There are no specific rules for how many centimeters to raise, I just do it visually, as I see fit. I do not wait for the drying of small roots (which turned out to be outside), I cut them off immediately. Sections are treated with 3% hydrogen peroxide.
Basically, I grow the most popular type of adenium - adenium obesum (Adenium obesum). Plants of this species are diverse in flowering, and they grow amazing caudex. I love arabicum - adenium arabic (Adenium arabicum) it's a different kind. It does not surprise with flowering, the flowers are often not very large and mostly white-pink-red tones. But he has chic caudex shapes. Grow with me and mini adeniums. These are wonderful, long-flowering plants. Moreover, I am interested in plants grown from seeds of Russian selection.
And now about vaccinations
Very interesting inoculations of mini adenium on arabicum. I do vaccinations according to the method of the well-known adenium grower Zhamyan Nimaev - “under the drill”. This is a very simple and effective method. A round hole is drilled into the rootstock (or made by any convenient sharp object) and a scion stalk is inserted into it. The grafting site is closed with grafting tape. I place the vaccine in greenhouse conditions. I cover it with a jar or put a transparent plastic bag on it, periodically air it. Usually after 2-3 weeks the vaccine takes root. It is better to do this in spring and summer, at the time of active growth.
Branching of roots and stem: is it worth it to "push"?
I am always surprised when I read how flower growers “operate” on their adeniums (mostly seedlings): they cut their central root, apical shoots, thus trying to speed up the branching of both the crown and the root system. Based on my experience, I want to say that most often such experiments do not give anything surprising. Adeniums grow an excellent root system without any outside interference. It is important not to take the pots "for growth", it is better to transplant once again by transshipment. In addition, adeniums bloom faster in cramped pots.
If you take stem branching, genetics plays a big role here, that is, the “pedigree” and quality of your seeds. I often branch even very small seedlings, others grow with “fishing rods”. If the seedlings are cut at an early age, the maximum that they will give is one or two replacement shoots. I do a very short pruning more often at a little over a year old, in which case side shoots from the caudex itself begin to grow and the plants become very attractive, with a beautiful compact crown.
Many flower growers use various chemicals to speed up the branching of their adeniums. Most often, these are various growth hormones, both liquid and in the form of a paste or powder. I'm always amazed at how thoughtlessly they do it. Such drugs, if they come into contact with the skin or respiratory tract, are not at all safe. You need to work with them very carefully, observing all safety measures (gloves, face mask). And the results are not so significant and surprising - they are not worth risking your health.
Trimming Rules
Adult adeniums should be pruned annually. At the same time, take into account that a short pruning will give the growth of lateral shoots, and a longer one - the awakening of flower buds.
Pruning the root also has little effect on the growth of the caudex. Species is also at the forefront here, and the appearance of your plant will tend to the appearance of the “ancestors”.
If there are small children in the house, it is better to place adeniums in a place inaccessible to them. And be sure to wash your hands and tools after trimming adeniums.
Material provided by the editors of the newspaper "Flowers for Home and Garden", Nizhny Novgorod (No. 11, 2015)
Flower growers often call adenium a very plastic plant. From it, as if from plasticine, amazing bouquets of multi-colored succulents are molded, surprising enthusiastic spectators with flowers of distinctive colors cherished on one caudex. Adenium grafting is also an opportunity to get a rare and very delicate variety in your collection, which is difficult to grow on your own roots.
What is a vaccination? This is the engraftment of a cut twig from one plant, usually varietal and rather capricious compared to a simple succulent, to another grown from seeds of ordinary adenium species. The implanted pagon is called a scion, and the plant on which it is grafted is called a rootstock. There is another term often used and carried out by flower growers - multi-grafting, when several branches taken from plants of different varieties are simultaneously planted on one caudex.
For successful engraftment of the scion, it is important to observe several basic conditions:
- The plants on which the scion is cut and the rootstocks must be healthy and actively developing.
- From the first point it follows that the best time for vaccination is spring or summer, when all living things are in the active phase of their development. However, there are cases when it is urgent to save a plant from, and then the following points of the conditions are important.
- Grafted plants must be kept at sufficiently high thermometer readings - at least 22–24 degrees Celsius.
- For the period of implantation of the scion, the succulent should be provided with good, but diffused lighting, without direct sunlight.
- Humidification should be moderate, it is important to ensure that water droplets during irrigation do not fall on the line of growth of the scion and rootstock in order to avoid the appearance of putrefactive processes.
- During all vaccination manipulations, it is necessary to use sharp disinfected instruments - a knife, a scalpel, a blade.
- Not a single branch of its own can be left on the stock, otherwise it will survive the varietal branch, and it will fade, and the plant will direct all its forces to the formation of its own pagons.
- The graft covered with plastic wrap on top must be regularly ventilated so that condensation does not accumulate inside, which provokes the appearance of mold and rot.
Types of vaccinations
There are several ways to engraft on the stock of the scion. Each of them requires a certain skill and skills, it cannot be said that one is better and the other is worse. Perhaps some species will seem simpler to an inexperienced grower.
The first vaccination is not always successful, so you should not immediately build special illusions. However, adenium growers with a considerable practice of successful vaccinations always reassure beginners - if everything is done correctly, following the recommendations, then the scion will surely grow successfully with the stock.
In split
It is considered the simplest vaccination. The stock is cut horizontally, a vertical incision is made on it in the middle. The scion branch is cut with a wedge, which is inserted into the cut trunk above the caudex. The vaccination site is tightly tightened with fum-tape. A plastic bag is put on top. After one and a half to two weeks, it is already clear whether the vaccine grows together or not.
A successful result - the scion did not wrinkle and did not rot. The tape can already be removed, and it is advisable to leave the polyethylene shelter for another week.
wedge-shaped
On the stock, cut horizontally, a cut is made in the form of the letter V, and a wedge is cut out in the lower part of the scion so that it fits exactly in size to the cut. Some skill is required here, because it is not always possible to guess with the size of the wedge.
The wedge is inserted into the V-shaped incision, and the joint is also wrapped with fum tape, and the entire graft is covered with plastic wrap. This method seems a bit more complicated than cleft grafting.
eyeball
One of the most difficult to perform vaccinations. An incision is made on the rootstock at an obtuse angle. A bud is cut off from a plant used as a scion with a shallow wedge so as not to harm the donor succulent. The kidney is tightly inserted into the incision of the rootstock and tightened around with a fum tape. The top is covered with a plastic bag.
Ladder
This method is similar to wedge grafting, but simplified by the fact that the rootstock is not cut horizontally, but with a ledge with a right angle. Exactly the same ledge is formed on the scion, which is tightly applied to the stock and wound around with a ribbon. Further, the principle is the same as in other vaccinations - polyethylene on top and ventilation to ensure air circulation.
Flat, or flat (flat-graft)
For flat grafting, you will need a fragment of polyethylene about 15x15 in size and ordinary pharmaceutical gum. If the scion is with leaves, they simply manage with the help of a fum tape. A horizontal cut is made on both the stock and the scion. It is not necessary that the diameters of the fused parts match, although if they are almost the same, the grafting site becomes almost invisible over time.
If the scion is without leaves, it is covered with polyethylene, pressed tightly against the rootstock and tightened around with an elastic band. A twig with leaves is tightly attached to the rootstock with a fum tape, covered with a plastic bag on top. Ventilate or make small holes in polyethylene for air access.
Drill
The method of grafting adenium with a drill was first used by an adenium grower from Ulan-Ude, Zhamyan Nimaev. A hole up to 1 cm deep is drilled in the stock. The skin is removed from the handle at the same distance from the edge. The twig is inserted into the drilled hole and wrapped with tape.
The method was originally announced for grafting thin twigs into caudex, but now it is used for scioning of different diameters, not necessarily small ones.
Grafted adenium care
For 2-3 weeks, the tape is not removed and they try not to look endlessly, satisfying their curiosity about how everything grows together there. Only after this period, if new leaves have hatched, can the tape be removed. If no new growths are observed, wait another week. Usually within a month, the vaccine takes root, otherwise it is considered unsuccessful.
The plant all this time is kept in its usual conditions, subject to the required level of illumination and temperature. Watering is moderate, moderately plentiful. adenium growers do not mention, during this period, most likely, it is better to refrain from them, and resume after the successful implantation of the scion on the stock.
It is important! Some flower growers are interested in whether it is possible to vaccinate and transplant at the same time. Definitely not, extra stress is undesirable for the succulent, so it is better to transplant after the successful completion of the vaccination.
Causes of unsuccessful fusion of the scion with the stock
After the first disappointment from a failed vaccination, the grower tries to understand what was done wrong, so as not to repeat the mistake on the next attempt.
So, most of the reasons come down to a few main ones:
- the rootstock was unsuccessfully chosen - a too young, inactively developing plant, which is sometimes called "sleeping";
- unevenly made edges of the cuts, which have become an obstacle in the snug fit of the spliced surfaces - as a result, such grafts do not overgrow cracks and holes for a long time;
- non-compliance with temperature conditions during the maintenance of the graft, especially the root system of the rootstock - hypothermia is fraught with the fact that fusion occurs very slowly and sluggishly;
- The “sleeping” graft will also not become a successful participant in the vaccination; it is necessary to choose branches that are actively growing and forming new leaves (the only exception is the adenium with a rotten caudex that dies during the winter holidays).
Adeniums are extremely plastic, the survival rate of grafting is high, which is explained by the property of the plant to accumulate nutrients in the cell sap, the ability to regenerate the tissues of the stems, caudex, roots, and leaves.
Types of vaccinations
In split
For grafting, a cut is made on the trunk (stock), deepen it with a wedge-shaped split, and blot with a napkin from excess juice. The graft, taken from a beautifully flowering adenium, is sharpened with a wedge so that it matches the size of the split.
The scion with pointed ends is inserted into the split, making sure that the cuts match each other in size.
Wrap the graft with fum or cling film, trying not to break the connection of the sections. The split graft is modified: after it has completely grown together and started to grow, it is cut off, leaving a stump.
The stalk is used for another grafting, and the stump will give abundant growth of shoots after pruning.
The number of shoots can be adjusted by pruning, which also stimulates growth. Shoots are formed by giving them a bizarre shape with the help of wire.
In Butt (Flat Flat Grafting)
The diameter of the rootstock with this method does not have to match the diameter of the scion. Several grafts can be placed on one flat cut of the rootstock.
The main condition for compatibility is that there must be an area where the cambial layers of the parts of the graft coincide. Attach such a flat graft with tape.
"Under the drill"
The inventor of the "under the drill" graft uses thin cuttings as a scion, from the bottom of which the skin is removed. A recess of 1 cm is drilled in the caudex, the cutting is tightly inserted into it.
eyeball
Jewelry grafting with an eye or a wedge requires utmost attention, the juice that stands out in large quantities must be blotted. A kidney cut with a wedge is applied to a corresponding wedge-shaped recess in the rootstock. The junction is fixed with a film until the tissues grow together and the kidney awakens.
- The grafted plant should not be placed in direct sunlight;
- remove the fixing film after the start of sap flow;
- at the junction of the sections, remove all shoots on the rootstock.
failures
- The leaves turn black next to the graft - the introduction of a fungal infection, the result of a violation of the sterility of the working tool.
- The appearance of icteric color of the leaves - rotting due to moisture.