Toilet repair: design features and ideas. Where to start renovating the toilet and bathroom? Repair of a bathroom with a combined toilet in Khrushchev Choice of design and facing materials

Do-it-yourself home repair has always been difficult for beginners. But if you start with small volumes, then it is quite possible to move on to other rooms in the future. The only difficulty in repairing the toilet will be to replace the sewer, the rest is much easier than it seems at first glance. This material will tell you how best to make repairs in the toilet yourself.

Video lesson

Modernizing a toilet is no longer a hard work process. More painstaking and thoughtful work needs to be done before the repair itself - this is the plan of the room itself, the layout of the placement of equipment, furniture, electrical wiring and sewer openings.
Before listing the necessary scope of work, let's get acquainted with the video tutorial

Priority of work

During the repair, a number of obligatory works are carried out.

• Dismantling of the old repair.
• Construction of partitions (if possible).
• Floor leveling or screed.
• Ceiling installation.
• Replacement of pipes and wiring.
• External wall covering (painting, laying tiles).

After dismantling the old cladding and, you need to install a sewer.

It all starts with the installation of sewerage, and only then follows the plumbing. The sewer pipe must be installed at a slope towards the riser. From this it follows that it is necessary to lay pipes before pouring the floor. For this, plastic products are best suited, they are easy to operate and are very stable in their chemical properties. Plastic pipes are easily cut with a grinder, after which the burrs are removed with emery. (Fig.1)

Connection and installation of plumbing

The last thing the repair stage ends with is the installation of plumbing. There are floor and hanging models of toilet bowls. Suspended mounted immediately, and the floor must be installed on a new floor covering.
If communications are located behind the wall, then it would be reasonable to have them under roller shutters or a plasterboard partition. If necessary, make a hole in the wall for the drain pipe. (Fig.6)

As you can see, it’s not at all difficult to make an inexpensive redecoration of a toilet with your own hands. Its really do it yourself. Therefore, if you are still thinking where to start repairing your home, start with the toilet.

Sooner or later, any person one way or another is faced with the repair of the toilet. You can entrust this work to professionals, or you can save money and do everything yourself. In this article, we will analyze in detail what work is to be done and in what sequence it is better to carry it out.

Any enterprise begins with a comparison of desires and opportunities. If finances allow, then the boundaries of desires are very conditional. We will talk about a decent repair of the toilet with our own hands with a minimum budget. This is the foundation for the rest of the story.

Planning the process itself has a clear sequence:

1. Complete cleaning of the premises;
2. Replacement of plumbing communications and electrical wiring;
3. Preparation of surfaces for finishing work;
4. Finish:
5. Paul;
6. Stan;
7. Ceiling.
8. Plumbing installation.

The zero point should be set to "Design development and purchase of materials." But this can create confusion. Therefore, describing each stage, we will justify the advantage of certain materials. The cost of all finishing elements, for objectivity, we took from YandexMarket.

Room cleaning

Complete renovation, declares the absolute cleaning of the room. Nothing should remain in it, except for the pipes of the common riser.

The sequence must also be observed. First, the tiles are chipped off the walls. Depending on the quality of the connection, this can be done with a puncher in the “chiselling” mode or with a simple ax, using it as a spatula. They pass along the bare walls with a drill, with a brush nozzle.

Explanation: it is quite possible to lay a new tile on an old covering. But in this case, it will take 3-5 cm from the height of the room.

Only after that whitewash is washed off the ceiling. At the same time, they wash off the dust from the walls and the floor.

Plumbing is dismantled at the very last turn. To do this, shut off the water supply to, unscrew the mount and remove the toilet drain outlet from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is very old, then it will have to be broken out, since the drain was sealed with cement mortar. The entrance to the sewer pipe is cleaned of pieces of sanitary ware and cement.

On the hole, until the end of the work, they put on a plastic bag and tie it with a rope.

Explanation: Dismantling the toilet allows you to create a solid floor covering, without painstaking trimming and fitting tiles. In addition, subsequently the toilet can be easily replaced.

Replacement of communications and wiring

Independent replacement of a water riser is never carried out in practice. The reason is the need to shut off the water supply in the entire riser, and this is the prerogative of plumbers from the service organization. But the more important factor is time and guarantees.

Replacing the riser pipes with your own hands without professional skills will require leaving residents without water for the whole day. It is unlikely that your neighbors will tolerate this. Specialists will cope with this task much faster.

The quality of the work carried out has a deeper connotation. If the replacement of the riser is carried out by specialists from the Housing Office, according to an official application, then in the event of leaks or any emergency, the responsibility will fall on the installers. Otherwise, you will have to pay for the repair of flooded apartments.

But you have the right to choose the material for the riser within your apartment. The most affordable and high-quality material is polypropylene pipes reinforced with fiberglass. They are suitable for both hot and cold water.

The layout of the apartment can be done independently. The best material for this purpose is corrugated stainless steel. At a price it is more expensive than or polypropylene pipes, but you get:

• Savings on the corners;
• Aesthetic appearance;
• Virtually unlimited service life;
• Extremely easy installation.

The cost of 1 meter of corrugated stainless steel pipe ø 16 mm is 92 rubles. An important condition for long-term service is the use of brass fittings.

Wiring will require upgrading if you want to install several lights in a miniature toilet. And this happens very rarely.

A very good solution would be to install a tubular energy-saving lamp above the entrance, parallel to the doorway. In this situation, the wiring can not be touched.

Preparation of surfaces for finishing

As a result of this paragraph, all surfaces should be smooth and even. The easiest thing to do with the floor. For leveling, you will need to use a quick-drying self-leveling screed. For 1m 2, with a thickness of 1 cm, 13-14 kg of dry mix will be required. For a toilet, 1 bag is enough, weighing 25 kg and priced at 400 rubles.

The floors are primed first. We recommend that you immediately prime the walls and ceiling. The mixture is diluted according to the instructions on the package and poured. In order not to make a layer too thick, disperse it a little with a spatula. The complete curing process takes 24 hours.

Aligning the walls in the toilet is a conditional task. The fact is that in such a small area, littered walls are extremely rare. Therefore, if the walls of the toilet are concrete, then a primer is enough, and if they are plastered brick, then putty will be required.

For putty you need:

• Working spatula 30 cm long;
• Auxiliary spatula 5 cm long;
• Putty mixture 20 kg (Weber: Vetonit 310 r);
• Drill with nozzle and container.

Setting time for cement-based putty is ≈ 90-120 min. Dilute 2-3 kg of dry mixture, following the instructions on the package. Then, using a short spatula, apply a small amount of mortar to the long spatula. Applying the working tool at an angle of 20-30˚, spread the mixture along the wall from the bottom up. Sequentially apply new portions of the mixture.

By adjusting the angle between the wall and the spatula, you can get different effects. At an acute angle, gaps and cavities are filled, at an angle close to a right angle, the applied composition is leveled.

Excess material, spreading to the edges of the tool, is collected with a short spatula, and again applied to a long spatula.

Do not try to achieve a perfectly smooth surface in one pass. Having processed all the walls and after waiting 3-4 hours, you can again walk through problem areas.

Pay special attention to the corners. They are unacceptable sagging and rounding. Geometric accuracy should not be achieved in all corners, they will be covered with finishing materials, but the excess in them should be removed.

After a day, the walls can be treated with sandpaper to get a high-quality coating for further work.

The final chord of this stage is the primer of the prepared walls and floor.

There is almost always a slab on the ceiling, so no preparation is required other than priming.

Finishing work

floors

The specifics of the room limits the choice of flooring. Of all the options, only self-leveling floors and tiles are suitable for the toilet.

Self-leveling floors look attractive, but they have two huge drawbacks:

• High price;
• A very complex process.

If you use them, it is better in a place where they are visible. In the toilet, they will be hidden. So, there is only one option - tiles.

Considering that the toilet has been dismantled and the base has been prepared, laying tiles in the toilet with your own hands is an extremely easy process. The choice of tiles is a very sensitive issue. We do not have the right to advise on color and pattern, but we will help you figure out the dimensions.

The dimensions of a standard toilet in an apartment are 0.8 by 1.2 m. For ease of use, try to find a tile that fits into these dimensions without waste, for example 40 x 30 or 40 x 40. In this case, you will need to glue only 8 or 6 elements . Please note that the smaller the number of elements in the mosaic, the easier it is to work. And for the price, such a choice will be quite acceptable. For example, from the manufacturer CERROL, in the Nero (Black) series, 1 m 2 of a 40x40 tile will cost 1304 rubles. There is enough for the toilet and there will be practically no waste left.

There is another option for light flooring in the toilet - mosaic tiles. These are ceramic tiles measuring 2 x 2 cm, glued to the substrate. By choosing the size of the sheet, you can cover the entire area in 2-3 steps. But this option, subsequently, will not prove itself in the best way.

The fact is that small elements of the floor covering visually reduce the dimensions of the toilet.

Eunice 2000 tile adhesive in a 5-kilogram package will help to cope with the task perfectly. Its price is 130 rubles. Consumption ≈ 4-5 kg/m2.

You will also need:

• notched trowel;
• Crosses;
• Laser level;
• Square.

The thickness of the crosses is not more than 1-2 mm. In a small room, large seams will not look aesthetically pleasing.

The method of laying tiles is straight. The toilet is too small a room to lay out a beautiful pattern in it.

Work progress:

Dilute the adhesive following the directions on the package. If you, following our advice, have chosen a large tile, then knead the entire package. While the mixture is swelling (4-5 minutes), set the laser level so that the horizontal beam is projected at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor. TIP: it is most convenient to put it on a horizontal sewer pipe. All laser levels have a self-leveling head, so even if there is a slight tilt, the beam will still show the true horizon.

The floors are swept. Apply the finished adhesive to the tiles with a notched trowel. Please note: the adhesive must be smeared over the entire surface. This will not only increase the adhesion area, but will also allow you to drill holes for attaching the toilet in the future without fear of splitting the tile.. The thickness of the adhesive must not exceed the thickness of the tile! Put the tile in place. Sticking is better to start from the wall opposite to the entrance. Move the glued element with an amplitude of 2-3 mm.

Sequentially applying a square to each corner of the tile, compare the level at which the laser beam is projected. If necessary, trim the tiles.

Similarly, glue the second tile, align it and then insert the crosses. There should be 2 crosses on each side of the tile.

With proper planning, cutting the tiles will only be necessary once to bypass the riser pipes. For this, it is best to use a grinder with a cutting disc. ATTENTION: the disc must be specialized, without radial cuts.

Use a tape measure to measure the distance you need to cut. Most likely, it will be the corner sector. Set aside the obtained dimensions on the front surface of the tile.

Tip: stick masking tape on the tile, it is more convenient to mark it on it.

Lay the tile on a flat surface and fix. When working with a grinder, be sure to use glasses!

It is necessary to cut through, so there should be soft material under the tile (a wooden block or two pieces of plasterboard).

The cut edge can be processed with sandpaper.

If gaps of 1-2 cm remain, then evenly distribute them in such a way that they fall on the gap between the tile and the wall. Subsequently, they will be closed with wall finishing materials.

According to the outlined scheme, all floor tiles are glued. After a day, you can walk on it and at this time they begin to grout the seams. The best material for filling tile gaps is silicone sealant. It is easy to work with, after drying it gives an elastic seam with impeccable hygienic characteristics.

To work, you only need white silicone sealant in a tube and a lint-free cloth.

Cut off the spout of the tube so that the thickness of the exiting silicone is minimal. Insert the container of caulk into the gun and apply even pressure along one of the seams. Excess silicone protruding outwards is removed with a slightly damp cloth. The slots must be filled flush.

The silicone should dry out within 3-5 hours. Then cardboard should be laid on the floor, and you can start decorating the walls.

Walls

Wall decoration possible with two materials: ceramic tiles or wall panels. We do not consider painting and whitewashing in principle, while other materials have low moisture resistance.

Tile is a traditional option for the toilet. Looks presentable, lasts a very long time. But there are points on which it is inferior to plastic panels. In particular, :

• Cheaper;
• Glued easier, faster, do not require professional skills;
• Models with 3D effect look great;
• You can easily change and "refresh" the appearance;

There is another nuance that can affect your choice. In the toilet, it will be necessary to close the water riser. If you use wall panels, then it will be possible to close this unsightly necessity with them without much difficulty and preliminary preparation.

In addition, you can improve the appearance by choosing wall panels 40 cm wide, just the size of the tiles. All decoration will take on the appearance of a finished composition.

To fix the wall panels, "Liquid nails" are needed. We recommend using Moment Installation.

For work you will need:

• Wall ;
• Liquid nails with a gun;
• Hacksaw for metal;
• Construction knife;
• Roulette and marker.

Gluing the panels starts from the place where they fit entirely, without cutting in width. Measure the height and set aside the required size on the panel. Sawing off excess with a hacksaw, make sure that the lamella does not bend and break at the very end of the cut.

The glue is applied in continuous strips, along the entire length, the diameter of the outgoing roller is 4-5 mm. There should be a distance of 5-7 cm between each strip of adhesive. Immediately place the panel in place, and move it slightly from side to side to spread the adhesive. But immediately remove this panel, and give an exposure of 3-4 minutes. This is required for the adhesive composition to interact with atmospheric oxygen.

After exposure, the panel is glued. To control the vertical position of each plank, use a plumb line. Press the lamella firmly for 30-40 seconds and move a little

All panels are fixed in the same way. But to bypass the water riser, proceed as follows.

Explanation: Between the front and back of each plank, there are stiffening ribs. If you cut the back side of the panel along the entire length along these edges, then it can be bent and pasted over rounded areas.

In the place where the riser is located, on the reverse side of the panel, the back sheet is cut off along with the stiffeners. Additionally, the lower part is cut where the sewer pipe drain exits. To make a neat outlet for water pipes, they are unscrewed from the stopcock on the riser. And on the panel, a hole is made according to the size of the outlet itself. Such an operation can only be carried out if you work with wide panels!

A horizontally lying sewer pipe can be pasted over with scraps of wall panels, leaving a hole for connecting a toilet bowl.

This option for finishing the walls in the toilet will avoid the use of end strips. After all, the edges near the entrance will be closed with a door cashier.

Instead of a skirting board, glue a flashing. In appearance, it is the same, only narrow.

Ceiling

The decorative finishing of the ceiling in the toilet, when the walls and floor are already decorated, should be started as a final chord that will complete the whole composition. If there are large dark tiles on the floor and dark panels on the walls, then the ceiling should be white and gold.

There are two options, this is a rack ceiling or PVC ceiling panels. In appearance of the finished coating, they will practically not differ. But here the rack ceiling will “steal” at least 7 cm from a height, due to the fastening system. And its installation will take an order of magnitude more time.

With PVC ceiling panels, the whole process will take 40-50 minutes.

Given that they will look the same, a sane person will choose PVC ceiling panels.

Using the example of two-section strips with gold, produced by Olimpia, we will describe the installation process. The width of the slats is 24 cm, the length is 3 m. The price of one plank is 180 rubles. 2 panels are required for the ceiling in the toilet.

They are glued to the same "Installation Moment". The slats are adjusted in length and glued, starting from the entrance, according to the technology described above.

Around the box covering the riser, the panels are trimmed with a construction knife.

Plumbing installation

Installation of plumbing consists of two stages:

1. Installation of a toilet bowl with a tank;
2. Connection to the system.

The option with a hanging toilet bowl is not even accepted for consideration. Its diminutiveness is just a marketing ploy to increase sales and create another group of products. After all, the mounting system and the cistern of the hanging toilet will require a minimum of 20 cm from the back. In other words, the dimensions of the toilet will in fact become 0.8 x 1 m.

Therefore, we will install a conventional toilet. To fix it, you will need to drill 2 or 4 holes in the floor. In this case, you first need to drill the tile. This can be done with a diamond-coated tubular drill by switching the puncher to the “drilling” mode.

Having passed the tile, the perforator is switched to the "chiselling" mode, and a drill is placed.

Dowels are hammered into the holes with a mallet and the toilet bowl is fixed through plastic washers.

TIP: Apply silicone sealant to the base of the toilet. After pressing to the floor, excess silicone will squeeze out, they must be removed immediately. But on the other hand, such sealing will not allow water to penetrate under the toilet bowl itself, during wet cleaning.

To connect the toilet drain hole with the entrance to the sewer pipe, use a corrugated adapter.

The hoses for supplying water to the tank, in modern models, have a sealing rubber gasket and do not need rewinding. Additionally, plastic lugs are integrated into the hose heads, they allow you to do without an adjustable wrench.



Where to start repairing a toilet is a question that interests everyone who is updating their apartment. Despite the fact that the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis room is quite small, there are a huge number of problems that we will now try to solve together with you.

Stages of renovation in the toilet

Repair must begin with the development of a future project. You must have a clear idea of ​​​​how the room should ultimately look like. Think over the entire design in advance and calculate the preliminary cost of all materials so that you don’t be surprised later. Particular attention should be paid to the choice of materials for finishing the walls, floor and ceiling, as well as the selection of all necessary new plumbing.

Of course, you should not spend too much money on repairing the toilet and make it somehow chic, but everything should look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing in the end, not only your family members, but also all your guests will visit this room.

Dismantling the toilet

If you plan to change the bathroom on your own, then you should follow the following toilet repair sequence:

1. Preparation of the premises and, if necessary, replacement of pipes;
2. Installation of new plumbing;
3. Finishing of all surfaces;
4. Aesthetics and decoration.

Let's start with proper preparation of the room. This means that it is necessary to get rid of all unnecessary items and dismantle the already used toilet bowl. First, of course, you need to remember to turn off the water so as not to flood the neighbors.

When the room remains empty, it is necessary to clean all surfaces, get rid of the previous finish. Despite all the difficulties, clean very carefully, you should not rush anywhere. Otherwise, a number of difficulties will arise later, which will be much more difficult to fix.

If earlier there were wallpapers on the walls in the room, you can remove them with a spatula. To do this, first of all, try to moisten the surface of the wallpaper with a sprayer with water and let it stand for a while. After a while, the wallpaper will get wet, and you can easily remove it with a regular construction spatula. The tile must be removed with a perforator.

If during the repair process you want to install a new front door, then at the preparatory stage you need to get rid of the old one. Also remove the door frame along with the door.

If finances do not allow you to replace the old door, or if it is simply still quite suitable for further use, then just wrap it well with food or other plastic wrap. This is necessary so that dust and dirt that will form during the repair process does not collect.

In the same way, get rid of the trim on the ceiling, and then remove the chandelier or shade. It is enough to leave only the light bulb in the cartridge.

If there is such a need, then the next step is to replace the cast-iron pipes with new ones, preferably plastic ones. This will allow you to avoid frequent pollution and clogging of sewer pipes, which leads to poor water flow. The advantage of PVC pipes is that they are quite easy to install, do not rust, do not accumulate all kinds of dirt on the walls, and besides, their price is not too high.

Moving on to plumbing

So now you know where to start. Now that all the preparatory work is completed, you can begin to replace the plumbing. A toilet bowl is an indispensable thing in every apartment, so its choice must be approached with all responsibility.

Installation of new plumbing

To date, there are a huge number of models on sale, they are both compact and overall. Choose them based on personal preferences depending on the size of your room. It is desirable that the toilet is combined with the overall interior, in harmony in color. When buying this product, pay attention to the presence of all parts, the absence of various irregularities or punctures, as well as high-quality packaging so that the rather fragile toilet does not break during transportation.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a toilet bowl:

• Shut off the water with a special valve that supplies liquid directly to the toilet. If this is not the case, then it is worth shutting off the valve of the pipe with cold water.
• In order to reduce the water pressure to prevent the valve from leaking, open the water faucet in the kitchen.
• Get rid of the old toilet.
• Make sure the floor is perfectly level where the new toilet will be.
• Install new plumbing, while making sure that all connections are smooth and secure.

Surface finishing

Nice decoration in the toilet

The first step is to decide on all the materials that will be used for decoration. You need to start with the flooring, and then take on the lining of the walls and ceiling. To finish the floor, it is best to use tiling, which is quite durable, practical, not afraid of moisture and dampness, and besides, there are no difficulties in maintenance, just wipe it with a damp cloth. In order for the surface to be warm, it is possible to install a floor heating system under the cladding. This will also provide additional heating for the entire room.

For finishing wall surfaces, plastic panels are the best option today. The advantages of this material are ease of installation, easy maintenance, resistance to moisture and dampness, relatively low price. If you use such panels for wall decoration, then it is better to choose glossy ones, this will further expand the space in a rather small room.

The first step is to make a frame from profiles. Then, install plastic panels into the existing grooves on the installed profile. After you have lined all the surfaces, proceed with the installation of new plumbing. Then install new doors if necessary, and complement the interior with additional decorative elements.

How to hide pipes

Pipes do not look very neat in the toilet, so if possible, you should hide them. Plastic is perfect for this purpose. A box made of this material will perfectly fit into the interior of the room, besides, it is quite simple to make it.

The profile frame will hide the pipes

On the surface of the wall, mark the markings on which you will attach the profile. Then make a frame from profiles in order to fix the plastic panels. This is done using ordinary screws. This task is simple, does not require any specific skills, so you can make a box yourself, thereby giving a beautiful appearance to the toilet room.

Secrets for increasing space

Of course, each of us would like to see all the rooms in our apartments spacious and comfortable. However, most bathrooms still have a rather limited space. In order to at least visually enlarge it, there are some secrets.

First of all, the decoration of the walls and ceiling should be light. You can apply a little trick - cover the bottom of the wall with light-colored tiles to highlight clear edges that will add originality, also apply a border. The remaining space of the walls can either be plastered or pasted over with light wallpaper.

For floor decoration, also use only light colors. You can also save space with a wall hung toilet. With all this, do not forget that all elements must be harmoniously combined with each other.

There is another way to save space. To do this, combine the bathroom with the toilet. Of course, this process is quite laborious, as it requires the demolition of the partition, numerous construction works and the execution of all necessary documents. An important condition that must be taken into account is that the wall that you are going to demolish should not be a load-bearing one. If you still decide on this process, then first completely think over the entire project, decide where you will place all the plumbing, and how you will hide the sewer pipes.

All furniture that will be present should be compact and functional. Recently, hanging cabinets with mirrors have become very popular, as well as a sink with a built-in cabinet, where you can store all the necessary items. It is advisable to use furniture that will be attached to the wall, and not take up space on the floor.

Using all of the above tips, you can easily make repairs in the toilet yourself.

"Last generation", modern finishing materials, as well as radically new technological solutions for interior design, many have a desire to transform their homes. And in order to better understand how certain finishing materials are mounted, it is best to start with the smallest room in the apartment - the bathroom.

Do-it-yourself toilet repair is quite realistic if you know where to start this process, what materials you can use for this, and how to install certain components of this specific room.

Starting repairs in this room, it is necessary to foresee that if you plan to completely replace all plumbing and pipe wiring, and not just tidy up the walls and ceiling, you will have to spend a lot of money. The work of the construction team will also be expensive - that is why it makes sense to try your hand at the role of a builder and designer.

Preparatory activities

Like any construction work, toilet repair begins with the preparation of tools, the purchase of materials, the dismantling of old plumbing accessories, cleaning the surfaces of walls, floors, and ceilings.

Tools

You need to start with tools, as they are necessary both for the preparatory work and for the repair itself. Of the building tools you need to have:

• Screwdriver with bit set or, last resort, a set of screwdrivers - for dismantling old accessories fixed to the walls, and then for installing new ones.
• Perforator - for removing concrete baseboards, if any, and old tiles from walls and floors. In the future, it will be needed for drilling holes.
• Gas wrench - will be needed for unscrewing and tightening threaded connections when dismantling and installing sinks, toilets and pipes.
• Brushes and rollers - for applying primers and coating waterproofing materials.
• Notched trowel - for applying tile adhesive to the surface.
• If metal pipes are changed to plastic ones, then it will be necessary to prepare an apparatus for welding them and a special pipe cutter.
• Roulette and folding rule - for carrying out the necessary measurements and markings.
• Building level and plumb line - to control the accuracy of the vertical and horizontal during finishing work, plumbing installation.
• Other plumbing and carpentry tools - hammer, chisels, files, chisels, hacksaws and others - as needed.

Dismantling old plumbing fixtures

When all the necessary tools are at hand, you can start dismantling work.

• The first step to take is to shut off cold and hot water from the central plumbing system. The taps must be completely closed.
• Next comes the dismantling. plumbing - sinks, if it is installed in the toilet, and the toilet bowl.

It is necessary to take into account the fact that if during the repair the family is not going to leave the apartment, then it will be very difficult to do without a toilet, therefore it is recommended to remove it last, and to remove it temporarily, only for the duration of the daily work, and then install and connect back to the sewer. This process is repeated until the repair is completed and a new toilet is installed in place of the old one. It's hard, but there's nothing you can do about it.

You can do otherwise - do not touch the toilet until the time comes to replace the pipes. True, you still have to return to the first option - it is unlikely that you will be able to do all the operations in one day.

Dismantling the sink

- after the to Before the apartment is disconnected from the water supply system, it is necessary to open all taps and make sure that there is no water left in the pipes. In addition, you need to flush the water from the toilet bowl, otherwise it may all be on the floor.

- Sinks are mounted on brackets fixed to the wall. Some of the models have a decorative pedestal that covers the sewer drain and water supply pipes. Additionally, the pedestal serves as a support for the bowl. Therefore, the dismantling of the sink begins with the removal of this particular element. The pedestal must be fixed to the floor, so the first step is to unscrew this mount.

— Hedged, you can twist the storage glass from the siphon, and the water accumulated in it is drained into the prepared container. After that, the sump glass can be put back in place, since the entire drain system will be dismantled. To do this, unscrew the nut installed at the bottom of the sink, with which the siphon and drain pipe are held. The nut can be easily unscrewed by hand if you turn it counterclockwise while supporting the siphon cup.

- Next, the siphon is removed from the pipe section on which it is installed, along with a hose that drains water into the sewer drain. Then, the entire system disconnected from the sink is removed from the sewer socket. The hole in the socket of the sewer pipe must be closed with a lid or plugged with a cloth rolled up in the form of a gag - so that the unpleasant smell of the sewer does not spread around the room.

- The next step is to disconnect the hoses supplying water to the mixer from the water supply system. To dismantle them, you will need to use a gas or adjustable wrench (in some cases it is more convenient to use a set of open-end wrenches - usually all plumbing connections in a bathroom or toilet - in the range from 19 to 30).

- Then the sink can be removed. If it is planned to install the same sink with the same mixer after repair, then it is left screwed to the bowl and taken out of the toilet room with it.

Dismantling the toilet

Having finished with the sink, proceed to the dismantling of the toilet and cistern.

- When dismantling the toilet, the water must also be shut off and water drained from the tank - this is a warning in case the process of removing it will take place on another day, after removing the sink.

- Then the tank is removed from the brackets if it is fixed on the wall and removed from the toilet. If it was installed on the toilet platform, then the corresponding fastening bolts are unscrewed, and the tank is removed.

- Now you can remove the "corrugation" (or other connecting pipe) from the outlet pipe of the toilet bowl, which goes to the sewer. She is removed from the toilet and pulled out of the socket of the sewer pipe. It is recommended to immediately discard this element of the system, and install a new one when installing the toilet bowl.

- The next step is to remove the toilet itself. To do this, bolts (sometimes screws or studs) are unscrewed from the holes, with which it was fixed to the floor. Fasteners are unscrewed with a wrench or screwdriver, depending on the type of fasteners.

- If the toilet was previously installed without the use of cement, only with the help of screws and sealant, then you should try to gently swing it and remove it from its place. If it was installed on a concrete solution, then it will not be so easy to knock it off its place, and in this case, in 99 cases out of 100, it is no longer possible to do without replacing the toilet bowl with a new one. The old one. most likely, it will give a crack or a split, it is immediately sent to the scrap.

- If it is planned to install the successfully removed toilet bowl in place after the repair, then it is temporarily taken out of the bathroom so that it does not interfere during work.

Cleaning surfaces from old coatings

Whatever finishing material for walls and floors is chosen, the old coating must be removed, since during its many years of operation it has probably been saturated with various odors that can remain in the room even after repair, which is highly undesirable.

The second reason the surfaces need to be cleaned is that the walls will not be able to be properly primed, which means that the decorative finish or adhesive will not be sufficiently adhesive to the wall. Finishing material will begin to flake off over time, and you will have to make repairs again.

• It is convenient to remove old ceramic tiles with a puncher by installing a flat-shaped chisel-blade.

Cleaning walls from paint with a hair dryer ...

• Painted walls can be cleaned with a blow dryer and trowel, or with a sander with a round wire brush.

... and with a wire brush

• If plaster was previously applied to the walls, then it is first soaked with water, and then removed with a thickened spatula (having a thickness of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm).

• Wallpaper from the walls is the easiest to remove - just like plaster, they need to be wetted and left for a while, then moistened again and removed from the surfaces with a spatula.

• After cleaning the surface of the walls and ceiling, proceed to the dismantling of the flooring.

Work can be done manually using a chisel, or just like removing the old coating from the walls with a puncher.

After removing the old decorative coating, the surfaces must be well leveled, removing small remnants of the removed material. If necessary, they are once again traversed with a grinder with a metal brush installed on it.

Primer and waterproofing

After cleaning the walls and floor, the garbage is taken out, then all surfaces are swept with a brush, and finally it is better to collect the dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner.

• Next, it is necessary to cover the surfaces with a deep penetration antiseptic primer, which will create excellent adhesion (adhesion) with the materials applied to them and keep the walls from mold colonies. The primer is applied at least twice, and the second time - only after the first has completely dried.

• After the primer dries, you can proceed to the waterproofing of the floor. Since the toilet is undergoing engineering communications - sewerage and plumbing, no one can rule out various emergencies. To avoid the risk of water leaking to the lower floors, high-quality waterproofing in the toilet, as well as in the bathroom, is a must.

There are many materials and methods waterproof floor, but the most accessible for use in an apartment is coating waterproofing, which is first applied at the joints of the wall and floor in strips 150 ÷ ​​180 mm wide.

• On top of the still wet coating, at the junctions of the planes of the walls and the floor, a waterproofing tape is laid and pressed well - it is recessed. It will additionally protect the joints from leaking in the event of a large amount of water on the floor.

• After the joints have dried, the waterproofing mass is applied to the entire floor and left to dry. If necessary, one or even two more layers are applied, each of which must dry well before the next is applied.

After the completion of the waterproofing process, proceed to the dismantling and installation of pipes.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Pipe replacement

If a major overhaul of the toilet is started, then, of course, it is better to immediately replace all the water pipes with new ones. Moreover, this process is necessary if the old system has been in operation for many years without repair.

It is better to replace metal pipes with plastic or metal-plastic ones. But first of all, the old ones are removed. They will have to be cut with a grinder - then they can be twisted using a gas wrench. Only after dismantling the old wiring to the place of its entry into the apartment, a new one will be mounted from new materials, installed in the same or another, more convenient place.

If there is no idea how to do it correctly, it is better to invite a specialist for such a task. He will draw up a diagram for the installation of all wiring, taking into account the location of water meters, water shut-off valves and connecting the installed pipes to the riser.

It would be optimal if the main water pipes - risers, passing through all floors, will be completely replaced throughout the entire entrance. Then all apartment owners will have the opportunity to change the pipes in their apartment at a convenient time for them without any problems by connecting to the new pipes of the riser.

Pipes are also a system of taps, filters, water meters and collectors.

The wiring diagram will be quite complicated if water filters for preliminary and deep cleaning and must fit into it. If these devices are not provided in the apartment, then the scheme will be quite simple - instead of metal pipes, on too most place new plastic ones are installed.

• The easiest to install is a tee pipe layout, so it is often used in the bathrooms of apartments.

1 - A branch pipe with a fitting for connecting an automatic washing machine or a toilet flush tank.

2 - Hot and cold water pipes with fittings for connecting a sink faucet.

3 - Hot and cold water pipes with connectors for connecting a bath faucet.

4 – Elbows (corners) for turning pipelines in the right direction.

5 - Tees, allowing you to make a branch from the main pipe.

6 - Check valves, allowing water to flow in only one direction, preventing it from flowing back.

7 - Hot water meter.

8 - Cold water meter.

9 - Pressure reducer, which stabilizes it in the apartment system - this installation is especially important if the pressure in the external system is not stable.

10 – Oblique coarse filters.

11 - Faucets (valves) to shut off the water supply to the apartment.

12 — Central risers of cold and hot water.

The disadvantage of the tee system is the uneven supply of water to different points of consumption with simultaneous use.

• The following diagram shows the common piping for the apartment according to the collector scheme. In it, each water intake point is connected individually to the installed collectors for hot and cold water. This allows you to achieve complete uniformity of water distribution and independence of water intake points from each other.

Obviously, if there is a desire to update the wiring system, making it a collector, then you will have to change the pipes in the entire apartment, where they are laid - the bathroom, the bathroom and the kitchen. Collectors are usually installed on the back wall of the toilet (usually water risers pass there or nearby) and close.

The figure shows one of the possible options for organizing a collector pipe distribution system in a city apartment:

1, 2 and 3 - valves, through which it is possible to organize either a direct supply of hot water to the intra-apartment wiring, or through an installed heated towel rail

4 – Main faucet at the hot water inlet.

5 – An oblique pre-filter that traps large particles from the central pipeline.

6 – Water meters respectively for hot and cold water.

7 – Fine mechanical filters. Very often they are additionally equipped with pressure gauges.

8 – Pressure reducers.

9 - Collectors - combs, to which cold and hot water pipes are connected, going to all points of water intake.

10 – Main tap at the cold water inlet.

The diagram also shows a storage water heater embedded in the overall system. Naturally, when the owners switch to autonomous consumption of hot water, they must cut off the internal wiring by shutting off the tap (pos. 4) at the inlet of the hot water supply. More (which, by the way, is often hung in the toilet) described in a separate article of our portal.

• When installing pipes, you need to determine the installation location of the sink (if it is provided in the toilet).

If it is located next to the wall where the collector is located, then the flexible hoses for connecting it can be closed with a small box.

If the sink is installed closer to the exit from the toilet, then you can do it in two ways - also build a box for the pipes, or hide them in the wall. To do this, it will be necessary to make strobes in the wall, in which the pipes will be laid, going out only with threaded fittings for connection.

The latter option is especially relevant if ceramic tiles are laid on the walls.

After the pipe routing is completed, all open threaded fittings (they are often called sockets) must be temporarily closed with covers, plugs or small gags so that building mixtures do not get into them.

• The sewer pipe coming from the sink can also be hidden in a box, wall or on the floor, making a separate gate for it, into which it will be embedded. The second end is connected to the sewer pipe passing from the toilet to the main riser.

Should I completely change the sewer riser? It is desirable, of course, if there is an old cast-iron pipe there, already heavily corroded by corrosion. But it will be quite difficult to do this in one single apartment from the entire riser. If you take such a step, it is best to immediately negotiate with all the neighbors.

Having finished operations with pipes, you can proceed to work that will help make the toilet room neat. Agree that no matter how aesthetic the new pipes look, they should still be closed so as not to spoil the view.

Pipe box installation

• In order to decorate the water and sewer pipework, it is necessary to erect a frame on which drywall panels will be fixed.

A well-arranged box will help hide all the "ugliness" of pipes

The frame can be made of a wooden bar or metal profiles. All its elements are carefully measured, cut with a hacksaw, metal shears or a grinder, and during installation they are aligned with a level and fastened together with self-tapping screws.

• The frame is placed at the bottom of the wall, if it was possible to fit all the wiring in this particular area. For sewers, a separate frame for the box is often built.

If necessary, the entire wall is covered with a frame. But, both in the first and in the second case, it is necessary to provide a window that will provide access to all wiring elements so that in the event of an accident, it can be easily eliminated, without understanding all decorative partition. In addition, we must not forget about free access to valves and water meters - for periodic readings.

• In addition to emergency and inspection doors, you need to think about. Very often, ventilation ducts in apartment buildings are located along the back wall of the sanitary unit rooms, and holes for them are arranged under the ceiling of the room. It is impossible to close the ventilation, therefore, it is also necessary to provide a separate box for it in the frame, and install in it, after finishing the finishing work, an exhaust

• After mounting the frame, it must be sheathed with a material on which any decorative finish will fit well. Most often, drywall is used for this purpose, but sometimes plywood can also be suitable, the panels from which are fixed to the frame using special self-tapping screws.

• After the drywall is fixed to the frame, all its joints must be strengthened with a fiberglass sickle mesh and sealed with putty. In addition, all self-tapping screw caps are also covered with putty, otherwise, over time, rust from them may come through wallpaper, paint, or even through the material of the joints between ceramic tiles.

• Next, you need to consider what type of door will be installed in the frame structure. Perhaps, it will depend on this and on the material chosen for finishing when to install elements for its fastening - immediately or after finishing work.

- If the partition will be pasted over with washing wallpaper, the door must be fixed on furniture hinges. In this case, it is installed on the frame immediately.

An easy option is to hang blinds on the wall

- If blinds are used as a door, which is the easiest, they are hung at the end of all finishing work.

- If the surface finishing will be carried out with PVC panels, then the door can be made of the same material installed on a frame made of rails. It is fixed on the lathing slatsdesigned for fastening the panels.

- Another option for mounting the door can be a frame made specifically for the left openings, on which the door is installed. The frame is inserted together with the door into the frame opening after finishing work, and around it is framed with baguette slats.

On a sheathed and puttied partition, before installing the decorative material, it is necessary to apply a primer in two layers and leave to dry.

Ceiling, wall, floor finishing

The toilet can be finished with different materials that have high moisture resistance, can be wet cleaned and are not subject to the negative effects of chemical detergents. Such decorative coatings include ceramic tiles, PVC panels, washable wallpaper and plaster impregnated with a deep penetration primer.

For the floor, of course, the simplest and most reliable solution will be ceramic tiles. From innovative technologies - coating can be self leveling epoxy floors. They have another name - because due to the multi-layer and transparency of the material, it is possible to create three-dimensional images.

Consider the most popular, affordable and self-assembly finishing materials.

Ceramic tile

The best option for decorating the walls and floor of the toilet is ceramic tiles. It has numerous advantages over other finishing materials, both in terms of performance and decorative features. Moreover, a great variety of collections are on sale, differing both in design and in price - you can always choose the right option for a particular one.

• Before laying the tiles, it is necessary to check the walls for evenness. If they have deformation or bevels, they must be leveled with putty or drywall sheets.

With drywall - much easier, the work process is faster, and after its completion there is not much dirt left. Drywall can be fixed to the walls with a special adhesive and fixed in several places with dowels. The seams between the sheets are sealed in the same way as on the casing of the previously installed box.

With very uneven walls, drywall must be fixed on the crate installed on the walls.

However, there are difficulties in this matter - if profiles are used for the crate, they will “eat up” a significant part of the already small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet, therefore, instead of them, wooden slats with a thickness of only 15 ÷ 20 mm are often used.

• After leveling the walls with drywall and covering them with a primer, you can begin to lay ceramic tiles on the dried surface.

The installation process of this material starts from the floor. Control over the evenness of the rows and the fit of the tiles to the wall must be carried out constantly, using the building level. In order for the seams between the tiles to be the same, plastic crosses are used to calibrate their width.

• If individual tiles require adjustment - their reduction or removal of some part of them, cutting is done with a special tile cutter or glass cutter, which is carried out several times along the same line, and then the excess part is separated from the tile with pliers. You can also cut with a grinder by installing a diamond or corundum wheel on it for cutting ceramics.
• Tiles are laid on a specially designed tile adhesive. It is applied to the walls with a notched trowel and spread over the surface.
• Having completed the laying, the seams between the tiles are sealed with a special grout (fugue), matched in tone to the overall color of the room.

• After finishing the walls, you can proceed to tiling the pre-leveled floor. To prepare it, it is best to use a self-leveling compound - it will need quite a bit, and the floor will learn to be perfectly even. A lot of useful information on working with such can be found in a special article of our portal.

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor has its own specific features - both in terms of choosing a tile, and in the technology of working with it. More about that - in a special publication of our portal.

Video: budget toilet transformation with ceramic tiles

PVC panels

Fixing PVC panels to walls is much easier than laying tiles. No mortar, "dirty and wet" work is needed. The panel fastening technology is simple and intuitive. The main thing is control for observance of verticality and horizontality, attentiveness and accuracy.

Plastic panels can level any surface by correctly installing the crate, which will hide all the bumps.

The panels, however, are not as durable as well-laid tiles, but they also have a much lower price. In addition, once having made a crate on the walls under them, the owners get the opportunity to change the finishing material as they get tired of its colors, or when it becomes sloppy.

So, the work proceeds in stages as follows:

• Before mounting the panels on the walls, they are mounted on the ceiling. If it is planned to install built-in lighting fixtures on the ceiling, then all measurements are made in advance, since the fixtures have a certain height, and the ceiling will have to be somewhat lowered during their installation.

An important note - the processes of paneling the ceiling and walls in the article are somewhat spaced only for a better perception of the features. In fact, the crate for both the ceiling and the walls is prepared at the same time, and only then do they move on to fixing the panels according to the “floor → ceiling” scheme.

- For this, a crate of metal profiles or wooden bars is fixed on the ceiling. Further, wiring is fixed between the elements of the crate - its ends are located at the points where the lamps will be installed. It is clear that the cables must not be connected to the power supply during installation.

- At the junctions of the batten and the wall, moldings for internal corners are fixed - they are placed at number four in the figure below. Facing panels will be installed in their grooves.

- Holes are made on the panels for lighting elements.

• On the primed surface of the walls with the help of dowels, wooden laths of the crate are fixed. If it is planned to install the PVC lining vertically, then the crate is fixed horizontally, and vice versa - when it is installed in a horizontal position, the crate is mounted vertically.

To save toilet space, the slats should not be thicker than 20 mm, and their width can be 30 mm or more. It is advisable to immediately align them vertically, making linings in the right places through which fasteners will pass, fixing both the rail and the lining on the wall at the same time.

Reiki are installed at a distance of 400 ÷ 500 mm from each other.

The crate is usually attached to the wall with dowels. To do this, holes in the wall are drilled through the rails, and then plastic dowels are hammered into the wall. A rail is applied to the marked place and screwed to the wall with a self-tapping screw.

- Next, a guide is fixed to the bottom rail, into which the end parts of the panels will be inserted. To do this, you need a molding called "starter", it is shown in the figure at number seven.

- Under the ceiling, the panels are inserted into moldings for internal corners, which have already been installed during the installation of ceiling panels.

- The same molding is installed at the vertical corners of the room, since panels of two planes will be joined in them.

- The installation of the lining begins from the corner of the room, and the first panel must be inserted into the grooves of three moldings at once - the top, bottom and corner. The panel must be leveled, since the evenness of the entire further row will depend on it.

The lining must be fixed to the crate and this can be done in several ways:

- Hammering nails into the hidden part of the lining adjacent to the rail.

- Using special metal clamps, which are put on the narrow part of the groove of the lining, and nailed, screwed or shot with staples to the rail. They are convenient in that, if necessary, one or more panels can be pulled out of the general row, without understanding all designs.

- Special clips that do not require additional fastening. They are convenient, but ordinary battens are not suitable for them, but you will need to purchase special guides into which such clips will be installed.

Prices for popular finishing wall panels

Wall panels

Video: an example of wall decoration with PVC panels

Washable wallpaper

Wallpaper that is easy to clean is the most affordable type of finish for the toilet. If you creatively approach the design process and choose the right pattern and shade of wallpaper, you can make an interior that will not be worse than that made using tiles or PVC panels.

The disadvantage of wallpaper can only be called the fact that their service life is much less than that of other materials, but their cost is several times lower. They are much more affordable for frequent replacement than tiles or lining.

In order for the wallpaper to look neat on the walls, the surfaces under them must be carefully prepared. The easiest and most convenient way to level the walls is with drywall sheets. As described above, the installation of drywall is quite simple, and any wallpaper fits perfectly on its surface.

Washing wallpaper is pasted with adjacent strips end to end. If a step-by-step drawing is applied to them, then it must be observed.

The ceiling can also be covered with wallpaper, the same as the walls, or lighter. Since light shades make the room much brighter, you can save on room lighting by installing light bulbs of less power.

For the wallpaper, you will need to choose the right ceiling and floor plinths, which will harmoniously fit the main finish in terms of color and style.

Plumbing installation

The final stage of work is the return to the place of the toilet bowl, cistern and sink.

Toilet

Since the toilet, whatever one may say, is the most important element of the toilet room, it is installed in the first place.

• To begin with, the markup of its location is carried out. The toilet is placed on the floor and circled with a marker. Immediately mark the places of its attachment to the floor, since it will be necessary to drill holes for the dowels.

• Next, the toilet is temporarily removed to the side, and in semi drilled holes for fasteners into which dowels or anchors are hammered.
• The toilet is installed in place and firmly screwed to the floor. Usually, plastic decorative caps are provided in the set of fasteners that will cover the head of the bolt or stud.
• Further, the socket of the corrugated pipe is put on the toilet pipe. The corrugation opens to the desired length, bends and its second end, equipped with rubber sealing rings-cuffs, is inserted into the socket of the sewer pipe.

• Then, you need to connect the tank to the toilet. There are different models of toilet bowl sets with a cistern.

- In some of them, the tank is installed and fixed directly on a special toilet bowl platform. In this case, the kit should include the necessary fasteners and sealing sealing elements, and mounting holes are provided in the toilet bowl and cistern.

- In other cases, the tank is attached to the wall and connected to the toilet with a pipe that supplies water for flushing into it.

• After installing the tank and assembling the drain mechanism in accordance with the instructions attached to it, it is necessary to connect the water supply hose - to the tank and to the corresponding fitting on the water supply.

• The last step in installing the toilet is to seal the gap between it and the floor with a sealant, it will increase the reliability of the installation and give the joint accuracy.

There are a lot of toilet models, and it is simply impossible to consider everything. Several can be found in a separate publication of our portal.

Sink

If you want to hide all the ugly pipe connections under the sink, you should purchase a model mounted on a pedestal. This structural element will close all unsightly places and serve as a reliable additional support for the bowl.

• Before fixing the sink to the wall, it is recommended to immediately install a mixer on it and connect flexible hoses to it. Also, the upper part of the drain system is pre-mounted, consisting of a socket and a piece of pipe, on which a siphon will be installed in the future. After installing the sink in place, it will be extremely inconvenient to carry out these procedures.

• Next, the sink needs to be fixed to the wall. It can be installed on special brackets fixed in the right place, or attached directly to the wall surface using anchors.
• After the sink is fixed, the flexible hoses are screwed to the threaded fittings that are brought out to supply water. It is recommended to additionally install taps on the fittings, which in case of emergency will help to locally shut off the water. In this case, the hoses are screwed to the threaded fitting of the tap.

• Now it is necessary to install and seal the siphon, and then connect the waste corrugated hose coming from it into the sewer pipe prepared in the floor or in the wall, sealed with a special rubber sleeve or cuff. The installation of the waste siphon is completed by a mandatory leak test with a test spill of water.
• The last step in the installation of the sink is the closure of all pipes and the siphon with a pedestal. It is installed under the sink and marks are made for drilling holes in the floor for fasteners.

The pedestal is then removed semi drilled holes into which dowels or anchors are hammered. After that, the pedestal returns under the sink and is fixed to the floor. With its upper part, it should support the sink.

After assembly - a mandatory check by spilling a large amount of water

After completing the installation of plumbing, it is necessary to conduct a verification test for leaks. If there are no drops of water on the pipes and taps, it means that the installation was carried out with high quality, and the plumbing is ready for operation.

If the owners of the apartment have creative inclinations, although some skills in the construction business, and main- desire, then even with a minimum budget, you can put the toilet in order.

Prices for various types of sanitary ware for toilet and bathroom

Plumbing

Video: an example of a major overhaul of a bathroom

Do-it-yourself toilet repair is not one of the most difficult jobs - the combination of temperature and humidity in the toilet room rarely goes beyond the usual for living quarters. It is only necessary to remember that the toilet is an exclusively functional room, and everything in it must be subordinated to a very specific goal: to ensure the best functioning of the smooth muscles of the excretory organs.

It does not at all follow from this that we are going to talk about things that cannot be said. On the contrary, we will describe how to make an inexpensive repair of the toilet, while turning it into a room that is cozy, comfortable and peaceful. Even Galen and Avicenna wrote that for the sake of health and longevity, natural needs should be sent in a good mood and with pleasure. Modern medicine fully confirms their conclusions.

Repair stages

Step-by-step repair of the toilet includes the following stages of work:

1. choice of type, place and method of installation of the toilet bowl;
2. design development;
3. selection and purchase of materials;
4. cleaning the floor, walls, ceiling;
5. laying communications;
6. floor repair;
7. plumbing cabinet;
8. wall and ceiling repairs;
9. floor finishing;
10. installation of lighting, ventilation, washbasin, urinal, bidet;
11. wall, sanitary cabinet, ceiling decoration;
12. door replacement.

Repairs that do not involve the replacement of plumbing and complex construction work (cosmetic) are much simpler and will be described in a separate section. And now let's look at the stages of how to make repairs in the toilet.

Toilet

For the sake of it, in fact, the toilet was created. When choosing this device, you should first of all think: is it possible to put a hanging toilet bowl?

The faucet, washbasin spout and shower diffuser built into the wall are nothing more than a tribute to fashion. Their technical and economic feasibility, to put it mildly, is very, very doubtful: the slightest malfunction is tantamount to a breakthrough, hence the exorbitant high cost of devices with their lower reliability at times. In some countries, building codes already outright prohibit them.

But the toilet is a completely different matter. It is difficult to clean the floor around its pedestal, and especially the corner under the outlet, and if you take a smear there and submit it for analysis to the SES ... the faint of heart are asked to refrain from viewing.

Under the wall-mounted toilet there is a flat, easy-to-clean floor. You can’t make a niche in the wall for it in our typical house - the wall thickness is not enough - but in any toilet, the suspension bracket and the flush tank are very simply covered by a sanitary cabinet that does not allow dirt to accumulate in the nooks and crannies. And the repair of a small toilet in this case simultaneously solves another important sanitary and hygienic problem, which will be discussed in its place.

Design

Requirements for the design of the toilet based on the needs of physiology are justified by a huge amount of material, from the works of archaeologists studying the camps of primitive people to the latest research in the field of molecular biology. The basis is a simple fact: biological evolution is at a snail's pace compared to the development of civilization, and physiologically we are the same as our distant ancestors in skins and with a gnarled oak tree in their hands-hooks.

Without going into details, not without interest for readers who are not prone to hypocrisy, but requiring a lot of space for description, we summarize:

• Small details, especially colorful ones, are unacceptable: they create a subconscious feeling of anxiety that knocks down the work of the intestines.
• You should also avoid bright, saturated and flashy tones in the color scheme; pastel colors are preferred.
• The overall tone should "cold" from the bottom up, losing at the same time juiciness.
• Solid vertical planes that give the impression of open space are also undesirable.
• The walls should be divided vertically into two sections: from the floor to the level of the eyes or chin of the inmate and above - to the ceiling.
• Dense overhead planes also have a bad effect on physiology.

Note: pastel colors are also good because the inevitable change in color tone in the toilet (see below) is not so noticeable in them.

Based on this, the physiologically justified color design of the toilet looks something like this:

1. The floor is rather dark, yellowish, brownish or grayish.
2. Walls to a height of 90-120 cm (3-4 rows of tiles 30x30 cm) - desaturated red-brown with specks or very light gray, also with specks.
3. The walls are higher and up to the ceiling - beige, mustard, cream, etc. It is possible with a flat relief or a faded blurry pattern.
4. Ceiling - pale blue, pale cream or pearl gray.

materials

When choosing materials for repairing a toilet, you need to consider the following:

• A lot is spilled on the floor in the toilet in exceptional cases, but what is spilled even in negligible amounts is saturated with BAS (biologically active substances) and very active chemical compounds.
• Compared to the bathroom, a little evaporates into the air in the toilet, but most of the fumes are chemically active, strongly and unpleasantly smelling substances: ammonia, unsaturated and cyclic hydrocarbons, etc.

Such circumstances impose certain restrictions on the selection of materials:

1. Any wood and products based on it (MDF, laminate) should be discarded - they are porous and organic. The fact that small splashes from a silly child or a guest who has had a hard time are immediately absorbed is only good at first glance. In fact, pleasant to the touch and pleasing to the eye, a teak, yew or cork floor will quickly become a haven for germs. They do not spray on the ceiling, but the vapors rise first of all towards it.
2. Also undesirable tiles based on ordinary silicates (not white from the inside). Chemically, it is neutral, but it has a lot of micropores, and it absorbs odors and keeps it well. You will have to use deodorant more often, but it costs money and is not a natural part of the air.
3. Washable PVC wallpaper should be treated with care, because of the filler. It can also absorb volatile compounds. You should buy either certified or from a trusted manufacturer.
4. A conventional floor screed is also undesirable, even with the addition of a polymer emulsion: its moisture absorption coefficient can reach 0.4% by volume. For the bathroom, this is more than good, but in the toilet it is not water with a small admixture of fragrant shampoo that gets on the floor.
5. Suspended ceiling Armstrong is excluded: it is highly porous, and even made from chemically unstable organic matter - paper production waste.
6. Any paper wallpaper, no matter how they modify it, for the same reason.
7. Any paints with organic pigment and filler: from the most insignificant miasma, they very soon turn yellow, gray and take on a completely vile appearance.
8. Styrofoam ceiling panels - for the same reason.

Here are some tips for repairing a toilet:

• On the cladding - porcelain stoneware. Dense, chemically resistant and durable material is slightly more expensive than tiles. And the percentage of manufacturing defects is much lower than that of inexpensive tiles, so in general it comes out cheaper.
• Tiles - faience or another based on kaolin (white from the inside and with a shiny fine-grained fracture).
• Paints - on a mineral pigment and a filler from marble flour (microcalcite). Somewhat worse with a filler of dolomite flour, but with skillful painting for 7-10 years, they are also enough.
• Washable wallpaper - their polypropylene, polyester or foam.
• Drywall - only moisture resistant, green.
• Drywall profiles - galvanized or aluminum.
• Plaster - any, but with mandatory impregnation with a roller after hardening with a primer on deep penetration concrete.
• Waterproofing - aquaizol or polyester.
• Floor screed - base and liquid polymer finishing.

Note: self-leveling floors were invented primarily for toilets, as a replacement for useless cement-sand screed anywhere in them. They are not cheap, but the toilet and consumption is small. If we take into account the backfill, selected sand, fittings, beacons, a tool for concrete screed, but on a small area, the self-leveling floor comes out even cheaper.

Sewer replacement

Replacing the sewer in an apartment is a difficult job and. Here we only add a little: in front of the cross, it is advisable to insert a tee with a 32 mm branch pipe into the outlet from the bathroom and kitchen. When repairing a small toilet in a panel house, it is very useful, see the section on the arrangement of a washbasin in the Khrushchev toilet.

Room cleaning

Cleaning the toilet before repair is easier than the bathroom, but it has its own characteristics:

1. Before getting off the floor, carefully inspect the toilet mounts (assuming all plumbing is removed immediately). The laboriousness of work on the floor and the cost of them largely depend on their condition, see the section on repairing the floor.
2. Both the floor and the walls do not need to be dug up to bare masonry, slabs or ceilings: the bulk of the plaster and screed in the toilets, as a rule, do not deteriorate even in damp block Khrushchevs.
3. Tiles can be knocked down rough, without cleaning the floor to a smooth surface: with a self-leveling screed, small irregularities are insignificant.
4. The paint and the top layer of plaster from the ceiling and walls are dusty, but easy to clean off with a drill and a round metal brush. With some skill, you can then immediately paint, glue tiles and wallpaper.
5. The skill of cleaning with a brush is developed quite quickly, so it is better to start cleaning from the surfaces covered in the future with a sanitary cabinet: there the flaws will disappear forever.
6. At the end of the stripping, the walls and ceiling must be vacuumed and treated with a roller with a deep penetration primer on concrete. While you are messing with the floor, the walls and ceiling will be completely ready for painting, gluing and cladding.

Laying communications

If the toilet is being repaired in Khrushchev, then there is no choice regarding hydraulics and sewerage: they remain where they were. The mini-washstand (which we will talk about ahead) does not require much trouble.

In the case when the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room allows you to install additional sanitary and hygienic devices, then the pipes for them will have to be hidden in the walls, otherwise they will spoil the whole view. The laying technology is the same as in the bathroom: solid brazed propylene on solid propylene fittings in strobes. At the end of the installation, the strobes are foamed. There are two features, as the Americans say, good and bad:

• It is not worth plastering the strobes in the walls: they will be perfectly glued with tiles.
• It is impossible to hide pipes in the floor or run them in a bunch in the corners, covering them with slopes: the first will create places for the accumulation of miasma, and the second, in addition, will be conspicuous and significantly reduce the floor area, which is not redundant anyway. So a hammer drill with a chisel on concrete will have to work hard.

If “replacement” is understood as taking off, painting and putting it back on, then remember: you need to paint only in a horizontal position, otherwise it will not do without streaks. Paint - the same as the others for the toilet. White, in order of preference - titanium, lead (do not be afraid, this is not free lead, they are not poisonous), zinc. The latter turn yellow from traces of ammonia in the air after 3-4 years; titanium ones are almost eternal.

Redecorating

Redecoration of the toilet assumes that the matter is limited to finishing and painting, and all plumbing fixtures remain in place. In this case, the decoration of the walls and ceiling does not differ from the one already described, and the floor is easier to handle:

• We remove the plinth.
• The perimeter of the room and the circumference of the riser (or the contour of the cross, if it is semi-recessed into the floor, are sealed with silicone.
• Option 1: pour a liquid polymer self-leveling floor with a layer of 10-15 mm onto the floor directly on the previous tile. Calculation of volume - according to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.
• Option 2: we lay marmoleum, having previously removed the toilet bowl. Cheaper, and rusted fasteners can be replaced. With serviceable fastenings on a sheet of marmoleum in places for bolts, we make cross-shaped cuts (this way you do not need to measure with jewelry accuracy), and after laying, the excess is cut off with a mounting knife.
• We put the plinth in place - it's ready.

Toilet BEFORE and AFTER cosmetic repairs without replacing communications

Toilet with a washstand in Khrushchev

Look again at the picture with the bathroom closet. Yes, there is a small washstand, and you can immediately wash your hands right there. But where to get one? In railway cars, they even cost more ... Do it yourself:

1. Spout - ready, goose, with the smallest possible extension.
2. Sink - a plastic reusable deep bowl with a narrow bottom and a top edge bent down. The choice is rich, the prices are inexpensive.
3. Water supply - metal-plastic pipes-henks, as in a sink in the kitchen from tees on pipes.
4. Outlet - 32 mm corrugation into a tee on the outlet from the bathroom with the kitchen (that's what it is for!).
5. Siphon - due to the bending of the corrugation.

The alternative is a miniature sink. But you have to look for it.

How do you make a shell out of a bowl? First, in the center of the bottom of the bowl we drill 4 holes of 4 mm each, inscribed in a circle with a diameter of 30 mm; this will be the grid. Then we cut out a round boss from plywood 12-18 mm: outer diameter - according to the diameter of the bottom of the bowl, excluding the shoulder; internal - 35 mm. We impregnate the boss with PVA emulsion. Then we glue the boss with AQUARIUM silicone glue to the bottom of the bowl and glue the corrugation into it with the same silicone.

Now it remains to cut holes in the sanitary cabinet shelf with a circular drill on stone (the cabinet is already tiled) for a bowl with a diameter along the upper diameter of the bowl; then it will lie with a bent edge on the shelf, and under the spout. The main thing is not to miscalculate with the markup: the water should flow a little away from the very center of the sink-bowl so that it does not splash on the grid.

And, finally, we fix the mini-sink with silicone, now it is already possible with a cheaper construction one. We put the corrugation into the sewer pipe, seal it with the same silicone. In the closet, we put a fixing nut on the spout handles, bring them out, attach it to the spout fittings, insert it into place, fix it with a nut - the mini-washstand is ready.

Note: do not glue the boss with construction silicone or superglue (cyanoacrylate glue). The first is not strong enough, and the joint on the second will fall apart in six months or a year.

Outcome

Self-repair of the toilet can be performed by an average-level home master. In addition to significant money savings, this will provide experience with which to take on.