But the first years often bring more disappointment than joy. Who would have thought that growing grass is associated with so many problems?
Either it turns yellow, then it becomes overgrown with moss and weeds, then bald spots appear on the lawn. Will it always be like this? Do not rush to conclusions. Most likely, you just need to get used to the lawn, understand what measures it requires to grow it in your conditions. To correct your actions, deal with each problem individually. This will help you ... weeds. 
Dandelions and other weeds with fleshy roots. Their appearance on a young lawn, as a rule, cannot be avoided. Some of the seeds are carried by the wind. While the grass is sparse, they reach the surface of the soil and sprout. The other part hid in the soil even before the laying of the lawn, for several years it will germinate "in batches". This shouldn't scare you. Treat weeds methodically with selective herbicides. The roots of thistle, thistle, dandelion have a large supply of nutrients, so several treatments are required for complete destruction. The herbicide works best in spring and early summer - don't miss this time. At a later date, large plants can be removed mechanically. Over time, with good care, a dense herbage will form on the lawn, and it will become much more difficult for incoming seeds to cling to the soil. The main thing is to withstand their "siege" in the first years.
Buttercup
and moss
displace lawn grasses in damp places. Fighting them will not bring success until you deal with excessive moisture. If waterlogging occurs due to water coming from paths or roofs, you need to divert it to drainage. In addition, sanding will help: at the end of spring, sand is scattered over the surface of the lawn and leveled with a layer of 1 cm, after 2-3 years the procedure can be repeated. Excess moisture is more difficult to deal with in lowlands and poorly lit areas. Here it is better to replace the lawn with ground cover perennials. 
Plantain speaks of overconsolidation of the soil, which may be the result of trampling, stagnant moisture, or both. The soil can be decompacted by regular sanding, and before that, sod is pricked in order to facilitate the flow of oxygen into the soil.
Veronica filamentous, blackhead and other creeping weeds thrive in sparse lawns that are not mowed and fertilized often enough. To contain the pressure of these weeds, the lawn must be combed out from time to time before mowing, lifting the whips with a rake. This allows you to capture weeds during mowing, and at the same time stimulates the tillering of lawn grasses.
bluegrass annual
- Another typical lawn weed. Outwardly, it resembles meadow bluegrass grown on lawns, and inexperienced gardeners notice its distribution only in June, during the earing period, when the lawn is covered with "spots" of a weed blooming at a height of 4-5 cm. It actively conquers compacted and moist soils, as well as areas that are cut too low. Soil improvement and proper mowing will help to overcome the annual bluegrass: it is carried out when the lawn reaches 7-8 cm in height, shortening the grass to 4-5 cm, no more. 
Clover is out of competition in nitrogen-poor soil. If your lawn has a lot of clover, try to choose the right watering and fertilizing strategy. On clay soil, perhaps it will be enough 3 times per season - in spring and early summer - to feed the lawn with nitrogen or complete fertilizer, and water as needed. The situation is different if the lawn grows on sand. A weak lawn needs frequent watering, but nutrients are washed out along with the water. Therefore, it is necessary not only to fertilize more often (5-6 times per season with an interval of 2 weeks), but also gradually “accustom” lawn grasses to drought, watering them as rarely as possible, but plentifully. After installing the sprinkler, place a tray with sheer walls on the lawn in the irrigation zone and see when 4-5 cm of water is collected in it. Approximately so it is necessary to water a lawn each time, keeping between waterings of 3-10 days depending on weather. Over time, you yourself will learn to determine the presence of moisture and nutrients by the state of the grass: if it is thick, dark green in color and grows quickly, then everything is in order. Paleness of color and weakening of growth indicate a lack of nitrogen. 
Each weed has its own "preferences", but there is something in common between them. They all love negligent owners who put off a haircut from week to week, and when they start it, they mow the grass as low as possible, "so that it lasts a long time." An important condition for the successful development of the lawn is timely mowing, which should be started in the spring. The lawn actively bushes and builds up strong rhizomes in the first half of summer, until the time of flowering has come. If you allowed the formation of ears on the lawn, consider that you have already missed the current season: all the power of the plant, as agronomists say, "went into the ear." Of course, in this case, you need to mow so as not to aggravate the problems, but you will not see a good result of your efforts until next spring.
Apply herbicides only when you are sure that this measure is necessary.
When and how to apply herbicides
There are situations in which herbicides do not work on weeds. This happens in several cases:
- after flowering (when the seeds are already beginning to set),
- in dry sunny weather,
- on cold days.
Based on this, experts consider the end of May - the beginning of June and the end of August to be the best periods for the use of these substances.
To enhance the effect of herbicides, before processing them, it is necessary to carry out preparation: the lawn must be fed and properly shed. On a well-maintained lawn, herbicides work like a magic wand.
Here's an example: clover is a weed that is "hungry", without top dressing, is highly resistant to herbicides. It cannot be destroyed without top dressing, therefore FORUMHOUSE consultant lawn mower to combat this weed, he recommends the following algorithm: top dressing - watering - processing in two days.
Clover is perfectly destroyed by preparations containing 2,4D, but such preparations, approved for use in household plots, are not on sale in most countries of the post-Soviet space. Our expert offers a mixture of lintur and lontrel.
lawn mowerAgronomist, FORUMHOUSE member
Remember, the concentration in the tank mixture should be reduced by 10-30%, so if you interfere, then within the limits indicated, and first dissolve the lintur in a separate container.
And now, to talk about the impact of proper agricultural technology on the effectiveness of herbicides: a member of our portal Yuriych brought out clover with one herbicide (one and a half bags per 5 liters).
Yuriych Member of FORUMHOUSE
The third year without clover, and not only without it!
In the photos below you can compare the same area, before and after herbicide treatment, with and without clover; but in both photos we see a lawn that has been carefully maintained.
Orhidika FORUMHOUSE Member
Super example - how to do to have a good lawn...
Another example is a member of our portal Just a grandfather talks about the area on his lawn, which dandelions do not even encroach on, and where moles do not even try to dig holes. This lawn is eight years old, and the well cared for red fescue has in this case acted as a lawn grass that kills weeds: it has supplanted the dandelions!
It makes no sense to look for special lawn grass that displaces weeds - with proper care and regular mowing, weeds will be displaced by any grass.
Rhizome grasses crowd out dandelions, especially if they receive support from mowing and fertilizing.
Sodmaster FORUMHOUSE Consultant
In general, I have wild standards - four weeds per hundred square meters are allowed on the lawn. And nothing, it turns out.
To meet the "wild standards" helps regular, from the heart, feeding, thanks to which the weeds do not withstand the competition with lawn grass, and a haircut twice a week.
Why didn't the herbicide work?
After treating the lawn with herbicide, weeds may not happen at all, they will still brazenly stick out of the lawn grass. Here's why it might have happened:
- you performed the treatment in inappropriate weather, on a drought or rainy day, in windy, cold or hot weather;
- there are weeds that are resistant to herbicides;
- low concentration or defective batch of herbicide;
- weeds so quickly recovered from dormant rhizomes that it seems that the herbicide did not work.
Each case must be dealt with individually, with the help of an agronomist.
How to deal with specific weeds
Woodlouse. Treat with selective herbicides. The woodlice will be killed, but will reappear within a week, and will reappear until the lawn matures and becomes dense. After that, weed seeds will stop germinating through a layer of lawn grass. Until this time, it is recommended to mow the grass at a height of 4-6 cm, be sure to feed and not water very often.
Budra, veronica, creeping buttercup, yarrow, cuff.
The appearance of any of these plants on the lawn indicates a lack of top dressing (or its lack of balance). If you adjust the feeding of the lawn, it will become almost impossible for all these plants to survive on it. In the photo above - budra.
Mice dove, or bristle. This is an annual cereal, in the fields against it drugs are used that are prohibited for private household plots. In our case, it remains to create a dense lawn through regular mowing, and then the foxtail seeds will stop germinating, and he himself, like an annual, will simply die.
Sorrel. Helps herbicide treatment .
Sodmaster FORUMHOUSE Consultant
True, I still advise you to first try from the edge and see for a couple of days.
Sleep. A vicious and almost indestructible infection. This is a dicotyledonous plant, but herbicides can not cope with it because of the dormant rhizomes, which even the roundup does not take. The most effective way to control this weed is to mow your lawn regularly.
Moss. Moss grows where other plants do not grow, so there is no point in getting rid of it. Knowing this, people often decide to keep the moss, and stimulate its development with kefir.
Relatives of lawn grasses. Reed fescue, cocksfoot. Relatives of lawn grasses on the lawn are the most problematic weeds. They are removed by hand, but there are such roots that it will not seem enough. It may help to inject undiluted Roundup directly into the middle of the bush.
Veronica flow (handrail). Resistant to herbicides, but does not tolerate lack of water. Regular top dressing and haircuts with rare watering are recommended. Destruction of Veronica If you still decide to use herbicides, then our experts recommend a double dose of lintura, and twice, with an interval of a week.
Amaranth. With regular, timely mowing, the amaranth will leave your lawn, although at first it will seem that this is not the case and that this weed is indestructible. The lawn needs attention!
Timofeevka. You can't get rid of her with herbicide. Just cut or inject Roundup with a syringe into the middle of the bush.
Weeds on a lawn are those plants that are not normally used for turfing. They not only spoil the appearance of the site, but also take away nutrition from the grass. Thus, weeds slow down the development and reduce the immunity of the cereal flora. Weed control on the lawn is an indispensable event for the care of the green carpet.
The appearance of unwanted vegetation is almost inevitable on a freshly sown lawn. The seeds of unwanted plants are carried by the wind, birds, and animals. They are worn on the soles of shoes by adults and children. But after rooting, the main grasses crowd out most of the weeds.
Lawn that crowds out weeds - fantasy or reality
A lawn that can take care of itself is the dream of every owner. It is a pity, but lawn grass, literally destroying weeds, has not yet been bred. However, there are plants that can withstand the invaders. It , . Individually or in combination, these herbs, growing, can displace weeds. However, without human help, especially at first, they can not do.
ON THE PICTURE: Fescue (Festuca) not only helps to get rid of weeds, but also effectively decorates the lawn.
The first step to enjoying a weed-free lawn is when purchasing seeds. It is desirable to choose mixtures that have undergone high-quality processing. In addition, it is very important to keep the area under fallow before sowing.
As a rule, weed seeds are much less common in lawn mixtures than in turf.
What will help increase the resistance of the lawn to weeds
- Regular cutting of the upper third of the grasses;
- Properly organized watering;
- Cleaning the surface with a rake, destroying ground cover weeds and felt;
- Seasonal fertilizing with nitrogen, phosphorus, potash fertilizers.
What weeds can be found on the lawn
Below are common weeds on the lawn: photos and names, as well as brief descriptions will help you identify the enemy.
Small sorrel (Sorrel)
Perennial with a strong root system. An upright stem up to 40 cm high. The leaves are lanceolate, green with an admixture of red. Propagated by seeds (germination -
10 years) and root shoots. It grows especially actively on soils with insufficient calcium content.
How to fight: selective herbicide treatment - in late spring and a month after that.
Perennial herb with fibrous roots. The creeping stem reaches a meter in length, taking root along the way and giving life to new plants. The leaves are trifoliate, with and without petioles. It blooms all summer with solitary golden flowers. Each gives more than 100 seeds. Very aggressive plant, can capture large areas.
How to fight: if the weed has managed to grow, then the site can be treated with a general herbicide.
Weed with a weak rhizome. The stem is erect, from 15 to 50 cm high. Below it is thickened into a bulbous tuber. A few leaves are sessile and petiolate. Golden yellow flowers appear in late spring. Thrives in moderately moist sandy soils.
How to fight: this type of Buttercup is difficult to eradicate, it is necessary to choose a selective herbicide with several active substances. For greater efficiency, the treatment should be repeated after a month and a half.
A plant with a fibrous, thickened root at the top. Stem straight, glabrous. The leaves are dark green, dissected, shiny. Blooms from late spring to early autumn with yellow flowers. Differs in vitality, prefers light areas with moist soil.
How to fight: use a selective preparation with several active substances twice. Interval - one and a half months, the first treatment at the end of spring.
Root perennial. In spring, bright yellow flowers appear against a background of dark green glossy leaves. Creeping shoots, rooting at the nodes. Underground tubers form buds. The plant actively propagates by self-sowing. It grows rapidly, especially on waterlogged soil and in the shade.
How to fight: use a herbicide with several active substances twice with an interval of one and a half months.
Thin roots diverge from the main root. Broad petiolate leaves are arranged alternately. Small flowers are collected in spike-shaped inflorescences. On fertile soils, the number of flower stalks increases. Each plant produces thousands of seeds that remain viable for 7 years. In addition, baby bulbs are formed in the axils of the leaves, from which new perennials grow. Does not lend itself to beveling and trampling. Prefers moist soils.
How to fight:
Herbaceous plant with a powerful, branched root. The ovate, pubescent leaves sit on short petioles. A tall (up to 70 cm) peduncle bears a cylindrical spike with numerous pale pink flowers. Propagated by seeds and root shoots.
How to fight: individual specimens are removed manually, otherwise - a selective herbicide.
Perennial with thick taproot. The narrow pointed leaves of the plant form a rosette. The flower arrow grows up to 50 cm. The inflorescence is a false ear. Produces tens of thousands of seeds that remain viable for more than 11 years. Actively grows on alkaline and moist soils.
How to fight: individual specimens are removed manually, otherwise - a selective herbicide.
A plant with lobed leaves collected in a rosette. The peduncle is slightly pubescent, the inflorescence is a narrow cylindrical spike. Propagated by seeds. He likes to settle in lighted areas, prefers slightly acidic light soils.
How to fight: individual specimens are removed manually, otherwise - a selective herbicide.
It has narrow, fleshy leaves with serrated edges. Peduncles crowned with a short spike. Blooms from mid-summer to autumn. It reproduces by self-seeding. Thrives in well-drained, fertile soils.
How to fight: individual specimens are removed manually, otherwise - a selective herbicide.
Low-growing perennial with a branched rhizome. The shoots of the plant take root quickly. The leaves are trifoliate. Blooms from May to October with white flowers. Resistant to shearing and trampling. Displaces not only lawn grasses, but also other weeds. Dislikes acidic soils.
How to fight: before mowing the lawn, creeping weed stalks rise. To avoid the growth of clover, abundant watering is necessary in a drought. It is possible to destroy the aerial part of the plant with a general use herbicide in the spring, as well as a selective herbicide in June–July.
Lying or ascending stems up to 40 cm long create loose turf. The short leaves are obovate, trifoliate, sitting on petioles. It blooms with small yellow flowers collected in capitate inflorescences. Quickly settles in areas with dry sandy soils.
How to fight:
An annual with a thin taproot. Stems branched, weak. Trifoliate leaves with pointed tips. The flowers are yellow, after the seeds ripen, the inflorescences turn black.
How to fight: manual removal of young annual plants is possible. When using a selective herbicide, treat twice with a one and a half month interval.
Perennial with a long taproot and numerous above-ground shoots. The leaves are trifoliate, sessile and short-petiolate. Yellow moth flowers are collected in umbrellas. It reproduces by self-seeding. Grows on any soil, including acidic, resistant to trampling.
How to fight: effective selective herbicide with several active substances, spray in June-July. Re-treatment is required after six weeks.
An annual with a bare or slightly pubescent stem. The green leaves are oblong, pinnately incised. Reed yellow flowers are collected in baskets, which form an inflorescence-shield. Produces a huge amount of seeds. Occurs infrequently, usually during periods of drought.
How to fight: it is quite possible to do with manual weeding.
Perennial plant with a creeping rhizome and shoots with long hairs. The same villi are found on the wrong side of the lanceolate leaves. A basket is formed from the tongues of yellow flowers.
How to fight: any selective herbicide. Weeding is ineffective.
Perennial of the Asteraceae family. More often, the plant has only one stem, less often from 2 to 5. It reaches a height of 15–30 cm. Linear or narrow-lanceolate leaves form a basal rosette. They are notched-toothed or dissected into slices. Blooms from mid-summer to late autumn. Reed flowers are yellow. Feels good on depleted soil.
How to fight:
This perennial has a fleshy tap root. The leaves in the rosette can be lanceolate, pinnatifid, notched. Flower arrows bear inflorescences-baskets, consisting of yellow reed flowers. Seeds - spindle-shaped achenes are carried by the wind.
How to fight: only a selective herbicide with several active substances, re-treatment is allowed after a month and a half.
The name of the plant contains a characteristic of the root system. Fleshy leaves are collected in the root zone. Stems are tall and flexible. Inflorescences-baskets of light yellow reed flowers.
How to fight: only a selective herbicide with several active substances, re-treatment is allowed after a month and a half.
Perennial with easily rooting above-ground shoots. The plant has small rounded leaves. Beautifully blooms single white-blue flowers. Very aggressive look, quickly recovers from drought or waterlogging.
How to fight: in spring, the lawn is treated twice with a general herbicide containing substances such as mecoprop, dicamba.
Low perennial with ascending stems. The leaves are rounded-ovate, the upper ones are sessile, the lower ones are on short petioles. Medium-sized flowers are blue or light blue. Propagated by seeds and vegetatively.
How to fight: in spring, the lawn is treated twice with a general herbicide, or once with a selective herbicide containing substances such as mecoprop, dicamba.
A plant with erect, pubescent stems. Leaves are opposite. White flowers have incised petals. It reproduces by self-seeding.
How to fight:one repeatedly
An annual herb with a weak branched stem. Leaves with a pointed tip. A distinctive feature of the plant is always wet foliage. White, star-like flowers bloom in May and fall off in late summer. Fruits twice a year. Each plant produces tens of thousands of seeds that remain viable for 20 years.
How to fight: with a regular haircut or once use a selective herbicide containing substances such as mecoprop, dicamba.
A plant with a thick root and a very short stem. Long leaves are collected in a rosette. Leaf blades pinnately dissected, dense, with pronounced veins. From each rosette comes an inflorescence-basket with off-white reed flowers. The most "harmful" of all thistles. The haircut does not lend itself. Most often settles on calcareous soils.
How to fight:dv Every six weeks, use a selective herbicide containing substances such as mecoprop, dicamba.
Perennial with a powerful rhizome and high (up to 120 cm) stem. The leaves are alternate, hard. Red-violet baskets form corymbose-paniculate inflorescences. Propagated by seeds and root shoots. It grows most actively on soils containing nitrogen.
How to fight:regulation Trimming will usually get rid of this weed. The remaining specimens can be treated with a selective herbicide containing substances such as mecoprop, dicamba.
In the first year, it builds up a neat rosette of obovate leaves. On the second, it grows with serrated leaf blades. Blooms from spring until frost. Marginal flowers in baskets are painted in white, pink, red tones. The plant is very insidious: single tender specimens look attractive. But soon it grows actively, suppressing its neighbors.
How to fight: a single treatment of the site with a selective herbicide with several active substances is enough.
Herbaceous perennial with decumbent stems that take root at each node. Leaves filiform, green. It blooms from spring to autumn with inconspicuous white-yellowish flowers. Prefers sandy soil.
How to fight: a single application of a selective herbicide with several active substances and a subsequent increase in lawn mowing height.
Perennial with tap root. A straight stem up to 120 cm high. Branches closer to the top. Multiple leaves pinnate, slightly pubescent. Blooms in summer. White baskets are combined into shields. Propagated by seeds and rhizomes. Vigorous, drought tolerant.
How to fight: a comprehensive approach is needed, including application of nitrogen fertilizers in the spring, digging up individual young plants, lifting the nest-forming leaves before shearing, and applying a herbicide twice with several actives during the growing season.
This plant has straight stems up to 25 cm high. The leaves are flat, narrowly linear in shape. There are fine hairs on the edges of the leaf blades. In spring and summer, flowers collected in spikes bloom.
How to fight: a comprehensive approach is needed, including application of nitrogen fertilizers in the spring, digging up individual young plants, lifting the nest-forming leaves before shearing, and applying a herbicide twice with several actives during the growing season. Another treatment can be carried out in early autumn.
Perennial with creeping rhizome. The height of the stems reaches 60 cm. Petiolate, oblong leaves with blunt tips are arranged oppositely. Blue-violet flowers are collected in semi-umbels and form an ear. Propagated by root shoots and seeds, which are scattered over long distances with the help of a springy stem.
How to fight: individual plants are dug up, the nests are treated with a selective herbicide with substances such as mecoprop or dicamba.
Nondescript field (Field cuff)
Small creeping annual. Incised leaves with stiff hairs. The flowers are small, greenish in color. During the growing season, it manages to produce a lot of seeds. It is actively spreading around, capturing new territories.
How to fight: in spring, fertilize the lawn with nitrogen, increase the cutting height. Dig up individual specimens, with a strong spread, use a herbicide of general action or selective with substances such as mecoprop or dicamba.
Herbaceous perennial with taproot. The lanceolate leaves are blue-green. Blooms in spring, re-blooms in autumn. Small pink, purple, lilac flowers form capitate inflorescences. It is rare, usually on the parterre lawn.
How to fight:enough internally single application of any herbicide of selective action. Digging by hand is not worth it, so as not to spoil the appearance of the turf.
Herbaceous annual plant with a tap root system. The rising stem is up to 50 cm long. The leaves are pinnate, long-petiolate, covered with thick fluff. Flowering is long (from May to October). Pink flowers are collected in umbrella inflorescences.
How to fight: herbicide of selective action with repeated processing in one and a half months. Mowing your lawn regularly will prevent weeds from growing.
seaside stork
It differs from tsikutny in smaller sizes. Prefers moist soils.
How to fight: Regular mowing and fertilizing the lawn helps this weed to fall out. When Aistnik grows during its growing season, a selective herbicide with several active substances is used. After a month and a half, the procedure is repeated.
Perennial frost hardy. Smooth, decumbent stems form a carpet. The leaves are collected in whorls of 6 pieces. Blooms all summer with white flowers.
How to fight: a selective herbicide is applied in May-June, after six weeks, if necessary, it is re-treated.
A rhizomatous plant with a forked stem. The palmately lobed leaves are dark green. Pink flowers with deep notches along the petals.
How to fight: the most effective treatment in the spring with a herbicide of general action. You can "walk" twice with herbicide with substances like mecoprop or dicamba.
Low (5–20 cm) perennial. Stems erect, covered with sessile leaves. Leaf blades are lanceolate with sharp tips. Below they are located oppositely, closer to the top - alternately. In summer, small pale pink flowers appear in their axils. Likes saline, moist soils. The plant is rare, can be found on the parterre lawn.
How to fight: a single application of a selective herbicide with several active substances.
Annual with thin branched stems that spread along the ground. The leaves are small, oblong. Small white-green flowers are hidden in the axils of the leaves. The fruits appear from summer to late autumn.
How to fight: individual specimens can be weeded by hand. Also, the weed is sensitive to a herbicide with a substance such as dicamba, one treatment is enough.
Perennial with a thickened root. Thin, flexible stems spread and root at the nodes. Leaves are glabrous, glossy above, pubescent below. Single flowers with light yellow petals exude an aroma that attracts bees.
How to fight:
Thin, but very strong shoots of the plant quickly spread over long distances, take root along the way. Toothed leaves sit on petioles. Golden-yellow flowers are located on long stalks.
How to fight: weed depletion is facilitated by regular mowing with a preliminary raising of the grass with a rake. With significant spread, a herbicide with substances such as mecoprop or dicamba is used several times during the period of active growth.
Overwintering annual plant with taproot, straight, slightly pubescent stem. Pinnately divided leaves (lower petiolate, upper sessile) are arranged alternately. Inflorescences-baskets only with tubular yellow flowers. Each plant produces thousands of seeds.
How to fight: Regular trimming will keep weeds at bay. Otherwise, a double treatment with a herbicide of selective action with an interval of one and a half months will be required.
Herbaceous annual plant up to 30 cm high. Tetrahedral stem branches. Pointed leaves are collected in whorls (lower 4, upper 6 pieces). White-lilac flowers form capitate inflorescences. Prefers loamy soils.
How to fight: hand weeding and regular trimming are often sufficient. You can use a selective herbicide with several active substances - the first time in May, the second - after a month and a half.
Weeds on the lawn - turning enemies into allies
Take another look at the photo of the weeds. Many of them are very decorative. There are among these representatives of the flora and those that have medicinal properties. Add to this vitality, unpretentiousness and fertility.
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