When traditional natural materials begin to dry up, as happened with the tree, there is natural desire to minimize losses and put into action even production waste.
This is how analogues appeared wooden shields on the basis of sawdust and shavings - chipboard and fiberboard. From the "Mason gun" a fibreboard was born, which later received the name - MDF.
Material types
According to the density of the front layer fibreboards are differentiated by marking:
- LDF from 200 to 600kg/m³;
- HDF- over 800 kg/m³.
According to the standard:
- general purpose (MDF);
- moisture resistant (MDF.H);
- structural (MDF.LA).
According to the type of front surface, plates are distinguished:
- embossed (milled);
- flat.
Covering possibilities:
- rack (type-setting) - from 150 mm wide, up to 3700 mm long;
- tiled (typesetting) - within: 30x30 and 98x98 cm;
- sheet - 122x244 cm.
Finishing method:
- laminated - pasted over with a film of polyvinyl chloride (plain, with a pattern, glossy, matte, imitating natural materials);
- veneered - with a front layer of valuable wood veneer;
- painted - coated with paints and enamels (by pouring), creating an elastic layer, using the printing method.
In addition to synthetic films, films on boards are used for finishing boards. paper basis and paper laminates.
Film coating not afraid of cleaning agents, resistant to mechanical influences, is resistant to direct sunlight, but raises the cost of the material.
Advantages and disadvantages
The raw material used for the production of MDF panels sets them properties of natural wood, and by mechanical properties even superior.
MDF panels, like any material, have their pros and cons.
Obvious advantages of MDF:
- Strength.
- Moisture resistance.
- Frost resistance.
- Structure homogeneity.
- Large selection of decorative finishes.
- Imitation of expensive natural materials.
- Long-term preservation of the geometry of the product.
- Ease of installation.
- Availability of fragmentary repair.
- Profitability.
- Ease of transportation.
- Relatively long service life.
- soundproofing properties.
- Environmental Safety.
Flaws:
- The value of its own weight.
- Not suitable for nailing.
- Waste from processing in the form of dust.
- Vulnerable to open fire.
- Swelling with high humidity.
- Susceptibility to deformation under mechanical stress (impact, fall).
How to choose?
Accounting specifications material and right choice tool - the key to success in working with a facing plate of this type.
Choice of panels for interior decoration walls depends on many conditions:
- What resources do you have.
- What tasks are solved by the covering capabilities of the material.
- What decorative load will the cladding carry as part of the design project.
- How important to this room there will be additional properties of the plate: moisture resistance, fire resistance.
- Does the protective (decorative) coating of the plate matter to comply with hygiene standards.
The best choice - wall panel (780 kg/m³), according to the type and assortment, corresponding to the tastes and capabilities of the owner.
Scope of application
In rooms with constant humidity - bathrooms, indoor pools - the material shows increased fragility.
MDF panels found their application in various fields, in construction, for the manufacture of cabinet furniture, in the design of premises, the manufacture of arches, partitions and much more.
Application of MDF panels:
Methods for fixing wall MDF panels with your own hands
The most common approach alignment and simultaneous decoration of walls- Sheathe them with MDF boards.
Wall slabs can attach to the wall in two ways:
- on frame technology(to a metal profile or to a wooden crate);
- mounting on glue (liquid nails).
On a wooden crate
On a wooden crate made of slats with a section of 20x40 mm, the panels are fastened on horizontal joists using tongue and groove locks. Why hammer small carnations into the corner of the groove of the lock. For accuracy of work, a metal striker is used, which allows you to hammer a carnation up to the very hat.
For metal profile
In order to install the panel on a metal profile, you will need the following consumable:
- SD profile (3m) for racks;
- UD profile (3mm), guide;
- direct suspension;
- additional strips and corners for joints;
- corrugation (self-extinguishing) for electrical wiring.
Walls under MDF do not require special preparation, unless, if necessary, they are additionally insulated.
The position of the sheets (type-setting plates, laths) on the wall is determined.
Implemented marking the wall with a level, self-tapping screws and nylon thread for UD guide profiles. Sections of open wiring are removed into the corrugation.
A frame is being constructed from a metal profile under MDF:
- UD profile is fastened with dowels to the ceiling and floor (wide side to the surface);
- hangers for SD profiles are fixed on the walls with a “quick installation” mount;
- SD profiles are attached to the ends of the UD profile of the floor and ceiling; fixed in suspensions with a step of 60 cm; the vertical position is verified with a plumb line;
- additional horizontal profiles are installed with the help of crab connections on vertical racks in places of probable impacts: 60-70 cm from the floor, and between them.
Installation of MDF panels on the frame using clamps and small self-tapping screws, in the sequence: panel, groove at the end, fastening with self-tapping screws to the profile. Corner joints closed with additional details from PVC.
first panel additionally fixed with self-tapping screws in places that will be hidden at the end of the work: to the floor (under the plinth), and the ceiling (under the decorative overlay).
In this video good example how to decorate a wall with mdf panels with your own hands.
Without frame
Mounting panels without a frame on "liquid nails" is even easier. The consistency of the adhesive should ensure elasticity of adhesion and filling in wall irregularities. For successful compliance with the technology, the instructions on the tube are enough.
Primer - prerequisite for the process. Applying glue to the panel is carried out pointwise, and in a checkerboard pattern.
It is necessary to glue in two stages, after the initial pressing against the wall, the panel is torn off (to weather the glue), and again (after five minutes) panel needs to be glued. The whole process is controlled by the building level.
Panels must be cut evenly and neatly to guarantee an aesthetic articulation at the joints.
To prevent damage front surface when cutting the slab, it should be placed on the work table with the glossy side up.
For joining wall corners use an add-on element, commercially available - a special corner for external or internal corners.
Decorating walls with MDF panels is not difficult for someone who has experience working with a tool and is not afraid to acquire new skills. The result will please you and your household.
MDF panels are an excellent decorative finishing material, which is characterized by high installation speed and the absence of the need for “wet” work at all stages of finishing.
They have panels and their drawbacks (for example, MDF, like any wood, is afraid of water and high humidity, is less resistant to mechanical damage compared to synthetic materials, work to restore damage to it is associated with a number of difficulties, etc.).
The fastening of MDF panels depends on the type of base and the desired result. The most common type of fastening is mechanical (on the base, a frame is often equipped with wooden or metal rails, to which MDF panels are attached with nails, self-tapping screws or kleimers) and chemical - using adhesive compositions.
The latter method assumes an even monolithic base, since in this case there is no frame made of profiles or guides.
Glue for MDF - an overview of the best options
The most commonly used adhesives for MDF panels are:
- Liquid Nails . Universal adhesive, which is characterized by high adhesion, resistance to corrosion and moisture. Liquid nails do not react with bases, unlike deep-penetrating adhesives.
- Mounting (or building) foam. Characterized various properties such as heat insulation, sound insulation and high adhesion.
- Universal construction adhesive. A wide group of products, divided into many segments and areas of application. For MDF panels, it is necessary to use only those adhesives that provide adhesion to the base materials (brick, concrete, drywall, tiles, etc.) and wood (MDF consists of fine sawdust).
The most popular adhesive for MDF panels is liquid nails (TYTAN or TITEBOND Multi).
In addition to the economic effect, when choosing an adhesive, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of working with it (time for primary fixation, final drying time, method of application, service life, essential tool and materials, etc.).
Mounting MDF panels on glue - instructions
Consider the technology of mounting MDF using the adhesive compositions indicated above.
Liquid Nails(similar— universal building adhesives). The thickness of the adhesive layer is only 3-5 mm, so the base on which the panels will be glued must be perfectly even. Otherwise, the panels will repeat all the irregularities of the walls or peel off in places of loose fit.
Therefore, before gluing the MDF panels to the wall, it must be leveled.
- Degrease the surface, remove all contaminants, putty crumbling areas.
- Before starting work, you need to make sure that there are no irregularities with the help of building rule, long level, or other instrument.
- The glue is applied in wave-like movements or in another way (for example, in dotted large drops) so that it is evenly distributed over the width and length of the panel. The pitch between the adhesive strips determines the force with which the panel will adhere to the base. That is, for example, when installed in places of greatest load, the frequency of application can be increased. Usually this is 10-15 cm. If the manufacturer specifies a waiting time before gluing, the required pause must be maintained.
- Using a construction bubble or laser level the launch panel is installed at the desired angle (depending on the intended pattern and mounting direction). Most often, vertical installation of panels is used. Start from the corner.
- The adhesive on the first panel must have enough time to bond to the substrate before installing subsequent panels (the same principle applies to other difficult junctions, such as internal or external corners). The setting time depends on the type of adhesive (see instructions).
- Thanks to the tongue-and-groove connection, subsequent panels can be mounted without waiting (except for the waiting time before gluing).
Corners (internal or external), as well as horizontal and vertical junctions without a tongue-and-groove connection, are covered with decorative moldings (universal MDF corners). Glue should be applied to the middle of each side of the decorative corner (so that excess glue does not come out when pressed).
The main thing is not to damage the decorative layer of the panels.
Option 2. Mounting foam.
The technology of mounting MDF panels using building foam is in many ways similar to the mounting technology using liquid nails or universal adhesive, with the only difference that the error of wall irregularities using foam can be higher due to a significant increase in foam volume.
The waiting time before gluing the MDF board to the base depends on the requirements of the foam manufacturer.
VIDEO INSTRUCTION
Basic installation errors
For liquid nails:
- Do not overexpose the adhesive before mounting the panel on the base. Otherwise, adhesion will be significantly lower.
- Incorrect application of glue - MDF panels will lose their attractive appearance if glue gets on the decorative front surface.
- Wiping off excess adhesive with a highly damp cloth may cause peeling of the decorative coating.
For mounting foam:
- For gluing, use foam with a low shrinkage coefficient and professional tools (high-quality guns for construction foam can regulate its supply smoothly and strictly dosed).
- If you do not wait for the setting time of the first panel, then during the movement of subsequent panels, the foam may collapse and not be fixed on the base.
The question is why it is impossible to glue MDF on liquid nails
Glue "liquid nails" is distinguished by its versatility. It is suitable for mounting a wide variety of building materials. And if “wood” is listed in the list of materials to be glued, then liquid nails are not only possible, but must also be used for gluing MDF panels.
Often, ordinary people can confuse “liquid nails” glue with sealants or silicones (they are applied using the same tool, the tube is very similar to the tube of liquid nails and they can be on the same shelf in the store).
However, sealants for gluing MDF panels are not recommended, since their main purpose is to fix sanitary ware and seal joints.
How to fix MDF panels to the wall: step by step instructions +
Greetings, experienced and novice home masters! This article is devoted to the features of wall decoration with MDF - panels. Competent installation, taking into account all the subtleties of technology, is the key to a result that will delight you for many years.
MDF wall panels can be mounted in two ways: on the crate or directly on the wall with glue. Before choosing an installation technology, I recommend assessing the condition of the walls in the room, taking into account two factors:
- MDF is made from wood fibers, so it is recommended to protect the material from contact with moisture and surfaces damaged by fungus.
- Panels need to be fixed to flat surface.
If the walls freed from old finish, almost perfectly even and dry, you can mount MDF panels without crates, on glue. This will take a minimum of time, but excludes the possibility of wall insulation and replacement of individual panels in case of mechanical damage.
Not smooth walls require fastening of a crate made of wooden slats or a metal profile. In a house with brick walls or in damp rooms, a wooden crate should not be used - there is a high risk of fungus, which will damage the finish over time.
Tools and materials
For trimming panels, as well as marking and mounting the crate, we need:
- plumb (easy to make from a strong thread and a compact load like a nut);
- tape measure (at least 3 meters), building level and pencil or marker;
- electric drill + drills for wood and concrete, screwdriver (you can use an electric drill with adjustable speeds + nozzle for self-tapping screws);
- metal square, hand saw or jigsaw, hammer or staple gun.
For fastening rails, panels and decorative corners need to stock up:
- wooden or plastic mounting wedges;
- self-tapping screws with elastic sockets or dowel-nails (for crates);
- self-tapping screws for fastening the outer sheathing panels;
- kleimers (special clamps for fixing the panels to the crate);
- small nails or staples;
- So - you will need "liquid nails" for MDF panels or wood glue of a thick consistency.
Attention - we carry out this stage only when we want to "plant" the panels on the glue directly to the wall, if you have chosen the option of attaching the panels to the crate, then the wall preparation stage can be ignored. To begin with, the walls must be cleaned of the old finish, make sure that there is no mold and moisture, and if necessary, carry out antifungal treatment and dry surfaces well. If the unevenness of the wall is too large, then you will have to plaster the surface and prime it, read here how to do it.
The first thing you need to know is that wall insulation can be done in two ways:
- after attaching the crate, fill the cells with foam or other heat-insulating material;
- before mounting the crate, stick foil foam with a thickness of 3 mm
Depending on how you will mount the panels vertically or horizontally, we mount the crate either horizontally or vertically.
For wooden crate I recommend using slats with a section of 20x40 mm. It is advisable to pre-treat them with an antiseptic. A wooden frame can be mounted using dowel-nails or self-tapping screws, but a metal frame is best fixed only with self-tapping screws, otherwise the profile can be accidentally bent.
The length of the fastener is selected based on the thickness of the battens and the thickness of the plaster layer. It is important that the fasteners go 30-40 mm into the base of the wall. The crate is attached to the wall in increments of 500 - 600 mm.
The vertical elements of the crate are installed in the corners - end-to-end, strictly at 90 degrees to each other, and also as a frame for door and window openings, columns and ledges.
It is important to constantly check the plane of the frame and the “evenness” of the planks relative to each other using a level.
For leveling, wedges made of wood or plastic can be placed under the slats. Inaccurate joints of wooden slats should be leveled with a planer.
The lower and upper horizontal rails on each of the walls should be fastened with a slight indentation from the floor and ceiling, respectively - skirting boards will subsequently be mounted to them. Then horizontal framing of window and doorways. The remaining horizontal elements are installed at a distance of no more than 500 mm from each other. Ultimately it should look like this:
The metal profile frame is mounted according to the same principle and looks like this:
Installation of MDF panels on the frame
Fastening panels can be started from any angle. At the first panel, it is necessary to cut off the comb with a jigsaw or hand saw, having previously marked the part along the entire length. I want to draw attention to one important point: before installing the panels on the wall, carefully calculate how much gap will remain after the penultimate panel - if the gap is very narrow, it is better to cut a wider strip from the first panel so that the finish looks beautiful.
The first panel must be pressed with its cut side against the crate of the adjoining wall and, using self-tapping screws, attached to the horizontal planks of the frame with an indent of 1 cm from the edge.
From the side of the groove, the panel is attached to each rail on the clamps, which can be nailed with a staple or a small nail into the central hole. In order not to accidentally damage the edge of the panel with a hammer, attach pliers to the head of a half-hammered nail and nail through them.
Each subsequent panel is inserted with a comb into the groove of the previous one and secured with clamps. The last element is cut in width, and its edge is fastened with self-tapping screws to the vertical lath of the crate.
Mounting MDF panels with glue
Everything is simple here - the previously prepared wall is pre-primed. "Liquid nails" for MDF or wood glue is applied to the back of the panel in large dots. Then the panel should be pressed against the wall and tapped for a snug fit, and then torn off the wall. The glue smeared on the surfaces should be slightly ventilated, so that later it will be better to grab. After 3-5 minutes, the panel is again pressed against the wall. It must be carefully tapped to ensure a snug fit to the wall.
Important: the first panel on each wall is attached to a vertical mark made with a plumb line. Subsequent panels are inserted into the groove of the previous element only after the adhesive has gained sufficient strength (this moment should be indicated on the package).
After all the walls are sheathed with MDF panels, the ceiling and floor plinth. Then internal and outside corners they are closed with a special decorative element - a cutting corner for MDF, matched exactly to the tone of the finish. The split corner is attached to the glue, which is most convenient to apply with a thin snake along the entire length of the element.
The end result should look like this:
Even a novice in the field can qualitatively perform wall cladding with MDF panels self repair. If installation with a crate is chosen, it is important to correctly calculate the amount required material and fasteners. I advise you to draw first detailed diagram with all dimensions included.
on the topic "how to fix MDF panels to the wall with your own hands":
http://postroju-dom.ru
| Name | Dimensions (mm) |
Slot | Coating | Package | Number of pieces in 1 pack |
Price rub/pack |
| 4.5 x 30 | T20 | Zn, yellow | box | 200 | 390 | |
| Self-tapping screws for MDF, fiberboard, chipboard, potai, partial thread with notches, countersinks, TORX slot, without bits | 4.5 x 35 | T20 | Zn, yellow | box | 200 | 420 |
| Self-tapping screws for MDF, fiberboard, chipboard, potai, partial thread with notches, countersinks, TORX slot, without bits | 4.5 x 40 | T20 | Zn, yellow | box | 200 | 470 |
| Self-tapping screws for MDF, fiberboard, chipboard, potai, partial thread with notches, countersinks, TORX slot, without bits | 4.5 x 45 | T20 | Zn, yellow | box | 200 | 500 |
| Self-tapping screws for MDF, fiberboard, chipboard, potai, partial thread with notches, countersinks, TORX slot, without bits | 4.5 x 50 | T20 | Zn, yellow | box | 200 | 550 |
| Self-tapping screws for MDF, fiberboard, chipboard, potai, partial thread with notches, countersinks, TORX slot, without bits | 5 x 60 | T25 | Zn, yellow | box | 500 | 1580 |
| Self-tapping screws for MDF, fiberboard, chipboard, potai, partial thread with notches, countersinks, TORX slot, without bits | 5 x 70 | T25 | Zn, yellow | box | 200 | 740 |
| Self-tapping screws for MDF, fiberboard, chipboard, potai, partial thread with notches, countersinks, TORX slot, without bits | 5 x 80 | T25 | Zn, yellow | box | 200 | 870 |
| Self-tapping screws for MDF, fiberboard, chipboard, potai, partial thread with notches, countersinks, TORX slot, without bits | 5 x 90 | T25 | Zn, yellow | box | 200 | 1100 |
| Self-tapping screws for MDF, fiberboard, chipboard, potai, partial thread with notches, countersinks, TORX slot, without bits | 5 x 100 | T25 | Zn, yellow | box | 200 | 1200 |
| Plate thickness (mm) |
Plate material (mm) |
Drill length self-tapping screw (mm) |
Drill diameter self-tapping screw (mm) |
| 3 | wood chips, shavings, cellulose | 30 | 4,5 |
| 6 | wood chips, shavings, cellulose | 35 | 4,5 |
| 9 | wood chips, shavings, cellulose | 40 | 4,5 |
| 12 | wood chips, shavings, cellulose | 45 | 4,5 |
| 15 | wood chips, shavings, cellulose | 50 | 4,5 |
| 18 | wood chips, shavings, cellulose | 60 | 5 |
| 21 | wood chips, shavings, cellulose | 70 | 5 |
| 24 | wood chips, shavings, cellulose | 80 | 5 |
| 27 | wood chips, shavings, cellulose | 80 | 5 |
| 30 | wood chips, shavings, cellulose | 90 | 5 |
| 36 | wood chips, shavings, cellulose | 100 | 5 |
| 40 | wood chips, shavings, cellulose | 100 | 5 |
Plate dimensions finishing material may vary depending on humidity environment, therefore, the most loaded points of attachment of wood-based materials are the points located along the perimeter of the slab. Interior wall decoration with MDF panels: lathing, thermal insulation, installationThe number of attachment points (number of self-tapping screws) is determined by the size and thickness of the slab and in most cases is at least 20 per 1 square meter, provided that the size of the self-tapping screw is correctly selected. In the middle of the slab, a lower density of fastening points is allowed than along the perimeter. When laying between the plates, it is necessary to leave a compensation gap, which excludes their contact even when swelling. |
Usually, when buying MDF panels for wall decoration, the buyer is offered special fasteners - kleimers. It remains to solve the question: "How to fix the kleimers to the frame or other surface to be lined?".
The standard solution for cladding with MDF panels looks like this. First, it is attached to the wall with dowels wooden frame from bars with a section of 40x40 or so.
How to fix MDF panels
After that, the clamps are easily nailed with 20 studs that come with the clamps. However, this design is not perfect. Wood cracks over time as it dries out. Of course, it is most likely that cracks form in places of greatest stress, where nails are hammered. Therefore, instead of nails, it is recommended to use small self-tapping screws.
But what to do if you do not have a wooden frame, but a frame made of a metal profile, which is usually used for plasterboard sheathing. The wall of the profile is very thin, so it is possible to fasten the kleimer with a small self-tapping screw on a tree every other time. The thread at the cap is already missing and the screw dangles along with the kleimer - a liquid construction. It is advised to use self-tapping seeds. But they have a big hat, which prevents the panel from entering the lock of the previous one. In general, it turns out but badly.
How to fix MDF panels to metal profiles? I prefer to do so. If possible, I fasten the bottom and top of the panel with wood screws, but not through the kleimer, but the panel itself.
As a rule, during subsequent finishing, the head of the upper self-tapping screw will be closed with a fillet, and the lower one with a plinth. Of course, for this it is necessary that the upper and lower profiles go at the very edges of the wall. Perhaps it will be a guide profile. Further, the rest of the panel-profile connections are glued. I use liquid nails.
If it is impossible to use self-tapping screws (there will be no fillet, and there is no profile below), then I do everything on glue. In this case, work in progress extremely slowly, because you need to wait at least 10 minutes for the panel to seize.
Wall cladding with MDF and PVC panels
Very effective method in a short time and without dirt, decorate the walls of hallways, kitchens, bathrooms or loggias finishing panels(Fig. 117). There are three types of such panels:
- typesetting rack panels, outwardly resembling a lining, are attached to the crate or directly to the wall with clamps (fastening brackets), have a length of up to 3000, a width of up to 300, a thickness of 8 to 25 mm. The panels are connected to each other by inserting a spike into the groove, depending on the shape, they form a seamless or seam coating.
- Square tile panels. Attached in the same way as rack. From these panels you can lay out a pattern on the wall. Dimensions tiled panels: from 300×300 to 980×980 mm.
- Sheet panels. They look like a large piece of hardboard, only with a pattern. Sheets are attached to the wall or crate with nails and / or glue. Joints are sealed with sealant or covered with plastic slats. These panels are much larger than the type-setting ones (their dimensions are mainly 1220 × 2440 mm, and the thickness is from 3 to 6 mm).
Before starting work to acclimatize PVC panels, they must be kept for several days in the room where they will be installed. During this time, they will acquire dimensions characteristic of a given air temperature and the likelihood of gaps between the slats will decrease. PVC panels have a coefficient of thermal expansion fourteen times higher than that of steel, with a change in temperature from -10 to +40 ° C, they lengthen - up to 9 mm on a three-meter rail. The expansion of PVC panels in width is not so significant, since the width of the rail does not exceed 300 mm, but still it is. Therefore, you should be aware that using these panels in kitchens, bathrooms, and especially on loggias, with a significant decrease in air temperature, cracks will appear on the wall, which will disappear when the temperature rises. Ideally, these rails should be mounted at a temperature slightly lower than the one at which they will be operated, then after acclimatization the plastic will stretch and clog the cracks so that the wall will be a monolith.
MDF panels do not expand much with temperature, but they have another drawback: some of them have low moisture resistance. It should be noted that MDF panels are made not only in the form of thin, cardboard-like sheets, which we used to call hardboard, but also in the form of thick (16 mm) dense sheets that look like solid wood. Wall panels based on chipboard can only be used in dry rooms, and fiberboard in moderately damp rooms. Before starting work on lining the ceiling, MDF panels, like PVC panels, must be kept in the room where they will be installed for several days. Exposure is needed to equalize the humidity of the panel material with the humidity of the air in the room.
PVC and MDF panels are mounted according to the same scheme
1. Surface preparation.
For panels mounted on a wooden or plastic crate, there is no need to pre-prepare the wall. Unless to "treat" the cracks.
For panels glued to the underlying base, clean the old wall paint. It is not necessary to clean the entire wall of old paint. Clean only those parts of the wall where the paint or whitewash has peeled off. Modern adhesives for PVC panels penetrate through old paint and interlock with the "body" of the wall. To check the bearing base for gluing, do a test using adhesive tape. Glue a piece of adhesive tape to the wall and tear off sharply, if it does not remove the old paint, then the base is suitable for adhesive mounting of panels. If, together with the adhesive tape, it comes off and old painting- the wall needs to be cleaned or a crate made on it.
2. Installation of the crate.
The crate is attached perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels (Fig. 118). Lathing material - dry wooden blocks 40 × 25 mm or finished PVC profiles (Fig. 119).
First, two slats are installed at the top and bottom of the wall according to the level or plumb, then two cords are pulled between them along the edges (for large sizes, three cords, two at the edges, one in the middle) and all other intermediate slats are set along them. To align the bars of the crate “into the plane”, linings made of wood, fiberboard or plywood are installed under them. The installation step of the intermediate gratings should be 500-600 mm or less so that the wall panels do not sag strongly from hand pressure.
3. Frame installation.
For the installation of wall panels, special additional elements made of PVC profiles (Fig. 120) are used, with which you can clad a wall of almost any complexity. First, on the wall to the lathing bars (or directly on the base of the wall when adhesive mounting) corner profiles are mounted. Accordingly, on internal corners walls - internal, and on the outside - external corner profiles. Skirting profiles or, as they are also called, moldings are installed under the ceiling and on the floor. If the ceiling of the room will be finished with the same wall panels, then an internal corner profile is mounted under the ceiling. Corner profiles can be replaced with J-profiles. When joining panels along the length, H-profiles are used.
All additional elements are attached to the wall or crate in the same way as wall panels.
If you forgot to buy these additional elements, then you can install the panels without them. The joints are then closed by gluing over the panels of the universal corner, or by attaching a skirting board for floors of a suitable color.
4. Installation of panels.
The panels are cut with a fine-toothed saw (for example, a hacksaw). Cross cutting of the panel should be started from the thickened part, where the "thorn" is located. Longitudinal cutting of panels is more convenient to do with a knife along the guide rail. In this case, PVC panels can be cut first from one side, then from the other side. Thin MDF panels - cut with a knife and break off, thick - it is better to cut with a hacksaw, jigsaw or circular saw.
Along the length of the PVC panel, it is necessary to cut smaller sizes than the wall requires, retreating from the edges by 4–5 mm. This gap must be left when introducing them into the receiving groove of the J-profile or molding. With thermal expansion, the gaps will compensate for the elongation of the panel, that is, with an increase in the air temperature in the room, the panel will lengthen, but at the same time it will not rest against the bottom of the receiving gutters of the framing profiles and will not warp (Fig.
The gap size of 4-5 mm is valid only for full-size panels. If the panel is shortened, then the gaps can be reduced according to the amount of trim. For example, when cutting a panel in half, the gaps can be reduced to 2–3 mm.
Provide for gaps even if you decide to postpone the finishing of the corners for “later” and cover them with a universal corner. In this version of the cladding, a gap is left between the end of the panel and the ceiling (floor). Gaps are also left during the installation of MDF panels, although they are not so susceptible thermal expansion, but they can change their size (swell) with excessive moisture.
The first panel is inserted into J-profiles (moldings or internal corners) with three sides: two ends and the side where the panel has a spike. It is desirable to cut the spike. The fourth side with the groove remains free and is attached to the crate. The second and subsequent panels are joined “thorn in the groove” and fastened with the side with the groove to the crate.
The last panel is cut to width, and it is shortened from the ends by about 5 mm. Then it slides all the way into the receiving chute of the J-profile (molding or corner profile) and joins into the groove with the penultimate panel. When the shelf of the second J-profile does not interfere with the second end of the panel, it is shifted in the opposite direction. When joining panels along the length, or when changing the direction of installation of panels from longitudinal to transverse, an H-profile is used, a special lath is installed under it.
There are several ways to fasten panels (Fig. 122):
- Adhesive to the underlying surface of the wall. If the wall is sufficiently level, then cladding panel glue for PVC (MDF) is applied and it is simply glued. Glue is applied to the entire back side of the panel in zigzag stripes.
How to fix MDF panels to the wall: step by step instructions + video
The adhesive is sufficiently elastic and does not prevent the thermal expansion of the panels;
- On glue to the leveling crate. Glue is applied to the panel only in places where it fits to the crate. Bonding area in this case small, therefore additional mechanical fastening is recommended;
- Direct mechanical fastening of the panel to the crate with stapler staples, nails or self-tapping screws. The method is quite simple and reliable, but has a significant drawback, the fastening prevents thermal elongation of the panels. Recommended only for rooms with a stable temperature and humidity conditions. In rooms with sharp temperature changes, for example, on a loggia, panels may warp;
- Mechanical fastening of the cladding to the wooden crate with clamps. This method of connection does not prevent thermal elongation of the panels. Clamps are attached to the crate with nails, staples or self-tapping screws (if the heads do not interfere with the fastening of the next panel);
- Mechanical fastening with clamps (sometimes called clips) to a plastic crate. The most progressive type of fastening. The panels do not perforate, fastening does not interfere with thermal elongation, and no tools are required during installation, the lining is simply fastened to the crate. If necessary, the lining can be dismantled and installed in another place.
5. End.
If you initially used framing profiles, then you just have to wipe installed panels rag. To prevent the panels from attracting dust to relieve static stress, it is recommended to treat the surface of the panels with an antistatic agent.
If the panels were mounted without framing profiles, then the junction corners are closed with universal corners. The corners are glued to the cladding with appropriate adhesives, for example, Liquid Nails or Moment Mounting adhesives for MDF and PVC.
During operation, it is necessary to protect the panels from impacts and damage with sharp objects. When caring for panels, you can use soft tissue or sponge. Do not use abrasive or caustic cleaners.
MDF panels are now widely used as a material for interior wall decoration. They have become very popular due to their environmental friendliness, attractive appearance and a number of positive characteristics. The use of MDF panels is simple, relatively inexpensive and fast way room finishing. Most often, the material is used to repair pantries, hallways or loggias.
What are mdf panels
This finishing material is made from fibreboard medium density as a result of hot pressing of wood fibers. As a result of pressure and high temperature, lignin, which wood consists of, becomes elastic, its fibers interlock with each other. The production of the material does not use toxic components, such as phenol or resins, so MDF panels are absolutely safe and environmentally friendly.
The external coating of facing plates is of three types:
- Laminated film that mimics the surface of marble, wood or other natural materials.
- Thin veneer of precious wood.
- Embossed lacquer finish.
When buying MDF panels, you should pay attention to their thickness, moisture resistance and strength.
Pros and cons
Of course, like any building and finishing material, MDF panels have their strengths and weaknesses.
To obvious benefits can be attributed:
- Simplicity and convenience of installation. They can be attached to a frame that is easy to manufacture, horizontally or vertically, without the need to pre-apply a layer of plaster.
- Good soundproofing.
- Attractive appearance, rich choice of coloring.
- Easy to clean, to keep the walls in a neat condition, it is enough to wipe them periodically with a damp cloth.
- Affordable price.
Among the disadvantages are:
- The walls under the panels remain hollow after fastening, if something needs to be hung, it is important to use special dowels.
- Instability to external mechanical influences and dampness.
- The material is highly flammable and burns.
- MDF panels do not form a smooth continuous surface, recesses are always noticeable at the joints.
- The material is more suitable for interior decoration of corridors, pantries, loggias.
Preparatory work
Since mdf panels can be attached to uneven surfaces, special preparation of the walls is not needed, however, due to their instability to moisture, it is better to work in a dry room in sunny weather.
From preparatory work the following steps can be distinguished:
- Coating the wall surface with a primer, a special solution for protecting wood or an antiseptic.
- Lathing device for fastening panels (if the adhesive mounting method is not used). The frame can be attached directly to the walls, but it will not be the most good option, because it will repeat all the irregularities of the wall. It is better to make an independent frame, the elements of which will be located on top of the insulation. The frame is of two types: metal and wood.
- Metal carcass it is made of a guide profile, with the help of which drywall is installed, approximately 50x50 mm in size. The profiles are fixed vertically to the floor with dowels at a distance of approximately 60 cm, it is important to check before installation correct location elements using building level. The lower bar should be placed at a distance of 3-5 cm from the floor, and the upper one at a distance of 2-3 cm from the ceiling. Vertical elements are fixed between the vertical elements. It remains only to securely fasten all the elements with the help of corners, which are easy to make from the profile itself. You can use a cutter, a tool that helps connect elements together.
- wooden frame is made from elements of the same size, approximately 50x50. The installation technology is the same as in the previous version, the difference is that the wooden bars are fastened together using self-tapping screws or furniture corners.
- Wall insulation. The cells of the frame can be filled with a layer of insulation, how to do this correctly will be described below.
Required Tools
Except standard set tools that can be found in every home, for the installation of MDF panels you need to prepare:
- A tape measure and a pencil, they will be needed to mark the attachment points of the crate elements and indicate the desired length of materials.
- A plumb line that can be made from ordinary fishing line and nuts.
- Building level or metal corner, with the help of which the correct arrangement of elements is checked.
- Hammer, nails, construction stapler.
- Dowels and screws.
- Screwdriver and drill.
- Prosekatel.
- A hand saw or electric jigsaw to cut the MDF panels to the desired length.
How to fix mdf panels to the wall
The material is attached to the wall by frame or adhesive methods. Both of these options are equivalent. If you need to hide the unevenness of the walls, it is better to choose the frame method, if you need to finish a flat surface, glue is quite suitable.
The preparatory work for the construction of a metal or wooden crate has already been done, you can start installing the MDF panels themselves directly. From which corner of the room to start work, it does not matter.
- The first MDF panel is installed in the corner so that its spike is located 2-3 mm from the adjacent wall.
- The second is installed on the adjacent wall in the same way so that its spike is also directed into the corner.
- Holding the panels with your hands, you need to install a universal corner between them.
- We fix them with special clips - kleimers. They are fixed on the edge of the panel, and then nailed to a metal or wooden frame. The clamps are made in such a way that they do not interfere with inserting next element in the groove
- The top and bottom parts are screwed on top and bottom with self-tapping screws. After completion of the work, their heads will not be visible, as they will be closed by ceiling and floor plinths.
- The next panel is inserted with a spike into the groove previously installed in the manner described above. Straight joints should be closed with special rails.
- When all the installation work of the panels is completed, the skirting boards and the casing are fixed with ordinary building glue.
Wall insulation
Experts advise to insulate the walls, since under the influence of moisture the structure of the material can change, which is not very good for appearance walls. The cells of the crate are filled with insulation before the direct installation of MDF panels.
Most often, two materials are used for this purpose:
It retains heat well and prevents the penetration of noise. The foam sheets are attached directly to the brackets for the batten profiles, and the gaps between the sheets are closed with a conventional mounting foam. It is very convenient to work with this insulation, it is easy to cut, the material is suitable for any density.
Mineral wool. This is a soft insulation, which is placed between the frame elements, slightly tucked under them. If you decide to use this insulation, you should definitely take care of treating the walls with an antifungal agent.
Installing panels with glue
It is important to take into account the moment that it is possible to glue MDF panels only on flat walls. This method is simpler than the wireframe method, as it saves time.
Not every glue is suitable for this type of work, it must:
- Be plastic;
- Smooth out minor bumps on the wall;
- Have a thick texture;
- Lie down in a thin layer.
Work performance technology:
- Before proceeding to sticker mdf panels, walls must be cleaned of dirt and ground or any antibacterial composition applied. Be sure to wait until the solution dries.
- You need to start the installation from the corner of the room so that minor errors are less noticeable.
- Apply glue to the inner surface of the panel dotted, that is, in a "checkerboard pattern", wait a bit to let the glue soak in.
- Attach the canvas to the wall, press lightly and smooth out in the direction from the center to the edges.
- Glue the rest of the panels in the same way. They can be fixed end-to-end or overlapped, depending on the manufacturer's recommendations.
In order to save time, glue can be applied to several canvases at once, while it dries, start attaching the first one. When working with glue, you need to be very careful, because the result of the work depends on it.
Process mounting mdf panels is very simple, if you follow the recommendations of experts and pay attention to some nuances:
- When installing the first MDF panel, be sure to use a plumb line and building level.
- The material does not bend, therefore, closer to the corners of the walls of the panel, you just need to cut it, and then close this place with special corners.
- Fasten the lower element of the crate closer to the floor, so that later the skirting boards can be securely fixed.
The modern interior provides a beautiful and original finish, which in a special way emphasizes the style of housing. Therefore, recently, MDF wall panels have been very popular among designers. Unlike wooden board they are inexpensive, come in a variety of colors and are easy to install, giving the room an ennobled look.
Peculiarities
MDF is a unique construction material, produced in the form of panels from medium-density fibreboard. Since the boards are produced by dry pressing wood shavings under high temperature and pressure with the addition of urea resin, they are heavy-duty and durable in operation.
Decorative finishing with such panels has many advantages.
- Easy installation. The material can be fastened in any direction: diagonally, across or along the wall surface. In addition, for the installation of panels do not need to carefully prepare working base. The condition of the walls in no way affects the quality of the cladding.
- Aesthetic look. Huge assortment color palette and invoices allows you to use MDF for any styling. In addition, during installation, between the plates and the base of the walls remains small space, which can be used to hide insulation and wiring.
- Good thermal insulation. The material is characterized by excellent heat retention, so after fastening MDF room acquires additional insulation.
- Easy care. To clean the panels from dust and dirt, it is enough to wipe them with a soft sponge dipped in warm water. If damage occurs during operation, then there is no need to completely change the casing. To do this, the panel with defects is removed and a new one is attached in its place.
- Durability. Such a lining will reliably serve for more than a dozen years.
Despite the presence of positive characteristics, MDF has some disadvantages.
- Low moisture resistance. Under the influence of moisture, the material is subject to deformation. Therefore, for interior decoration with high humidity it is recommended to use special plates with a protective layer.
- Instability to mechanical damage and stress. Decorative panels need careful installation and maintenance.
- High risk of fire. electrical wiring, which is laid under the trim, must be placed in the fire resistance of the box.
- Formation of hollow walls. Since the MDF is fixed to the frame, a “void” is obtained between the sheathing, therefore, when you need to fix furniture on the walls, you have to use long nails or dowels.
Before you purchase facing plates, it is important to consider that they are produced different sizes depending on the model range each brand.
As a rule, products with a thickness of 7 mm to 14 mm and dimensions of 2600 × 200 mm, 2600 × 153 mm, 2600 × 325 mm are most often found on the market. Wall blocks are usually fastened to glue or a crate made of wooden beams and metal profiles. At the same time, the installation of plates on a wooden frame is made much easier, but before installation, the wood should be covered with antiseptic solutions that protect it from the formation of mold and fungus.
To date, MDF boards have found wide application in various fields. They cover the walls door leafs, window sills, ceilings, as well as screens for heating and ventilation systems and arches are made from the material. This finish looks great modern interior, since the panels imitate not only expensive breeds wood, but also natural stone.
Material Quantity Calculation
The installation of MDF, like any other material, must begin with preliminary calculation number of panels. To do this, first of all, determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe room: all the necessary measurements are taken, and the perimeter is multiplied by the height. It is also important to consider the presence of doors and windows in the room. Their quadrature is calculated in the same way, multiplying the height by the width, the result obtained is subtracted from the total area of the room.
Then, knowing all the numbers, you can go shopping for wall panels. Since the products are sold in different sizes, you will have to additionally calculate how much square meters in every plate. Usually manufacturers write this on packs. If, for example, a panel is purchased with a width of 900 mm and a length of 2600 mm, then it is enough to multiply 2600 mm by 900 mm. As a result, it turns out that in one plate 2.34 m2. Then the area of the room, which is planned for sheathing, must simply be divided by 2.34 m2, and the required number of panels will be obtained.
Instrument preparation
An important point before starting the MDF sheathing, the preparation of the tool is also considered. Since the installation of wall panels is not particularly difficult, it is quite possible to do it yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists.
To do the job quickly and efficiently, you need to have a basic set of tools at hand.
- Roulette. It is best to use a 5-meter tape measure.
- Level. It can be either purchased at the store or made from jute, to the end of which a nut is tied.
- Drill with complete set nozzles. It will perfectly replace the screwdriver and simplify the task of fixing the plates.
- Metal square. For installation, one that has various legs and is usually used by locksmiths is suitable. Using a square, panels for cutting slopes will be measured.
- Hacksaw or electric jigsaw. It is recommended to stock up on both at the same time. In this case, the hacksaw should be chosen with fine teeth having a transverse and longitudinal washed down.
- Bulgarian. It is needed for cutting metal profiles, if the frame is planned to be assembled from metal.
In addition to the above, you will also need the usual tools that everyone has in the house: a screwdriver, a knife, a hammer, drills and a marker.
Mounting methods
Before sheathing MDF walls, it is necessary to determine how to fix them. You can install decorative panels with glue or on the crate. Each of these methods is characterized by its installation technology.
Before choosing, you should evaluate the condition of the surface, taking into account some of the nuances.
- The boards are made from wood fibers, so the material must be protected from contact with mold-damaged substrates. Mounting on walls in rooms with high humidity is not recommended. In addition, the panels must be mounted on a flat base.
- In the event that the walls are well cleaned of the old finish, dry, then MDF can be installed on them with glue or liquid nails without assembling the crate. This will simplify fastening, but exclude the possibility of replacing individual plates if they are mechanically damaged.
The installation of wall blocks on the frame is as follows: guides are attached to the surface, which serve as the basis for installation, then MDF is fixed to the metal profile or bar.
This technique has many advantages.
- The crate hides the defects of the base, so the walls do not need to be leveled and leveled. This in turn saves a lot of time and money.
- The formed "void" between the skin will serve perfect place for laying important systems communications and laying the heat-insulating layer. In addition, it creates additional soundproofing, which is especially important for apartments in which inter-wall partitions have poor sound absorption.
- Possibility quick repair finishes if individual panels have been damaged.
As for the disadvantages of such a sheathing, it significantly reduces the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, and if you need to hang pieces of furniture on the walls or decorative elements, then it is worth considering that the design will not withstand such loads.
Unlike the previous technique, landing on glue does not have significant disadvantages. MDF boards fastened directly to the wall, the connecting element in this case is glue. To fix the panels together additionally, clamps are also used. Thanks to this finishing option, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room does not decrease, installation is carried out quickly, without damaging the material with self-tapping screws or nails. But if the surface of the cladding is damaged during operation, then not one fragment of the finish, but the entire wall, will have to be restored.
When deciding on the choice of a particular method, it is worth considering not only the features of the room, but also calculate the cost of sheathing. For example, in some cases it is much more economical to putty the walls and not build a frame. For large rooms Of course, it is best to install the crate, since it will be problematic to perfectly align their walls.
Execution of work
MDF panels thanks to their performance characteristics and aesthetic appearance are widely used in finishing works. wall panels you can not only finish the ceilings of the corridor, the passer-by, but also originally sheathe the doorway or the slopes of the windows. Furniture fittings and wall corners are also easily made from the material at home. Since the product is easy to install, it is quite possible to do all the work with your own hands. Before fixing MDF, you should prepare the surface for finishing by cleaning it of the old coating and eliminating all defects.
Regardless of whether it is planned to be sheathed on concrete, wood or brick, the base must be primed, this will protect the finish in the future from the appearance of mold and fungus.
For additional thermal insulation of window slopes, walls and doorways, it is recommended to lay insulating material, it will not only serve good insulation, but also cope with the task of vapor and waterproofing.
To install the panels on the slopes, they can be fixed along or across, it all depends on the size of the slope. This finish, made from a combination of light and dark pieces of slabs, looks original. Installation of panels on walls and ceilings is carried out both on glue and on pre- assembled frame. To do this, first fasten start profile, and then the guides, along the length of which you need to properly join the decorative details. To make a beautiful corner, before installation, trim the material, rounding its edges.
Sawing or cutting panels is recommended using special tools for working with wood. The best option a jigsaw is considered for this, but if it is not at hand, then a saw with fine teeth will do. Having decided on the direction of the MDF sheathing, the panels are measured and cut to the desired length. At the same time, it is necessary to cut off the spike along the entire length of the first plate, if this is not done, then difficulties will arise when installing the corners.
crate
Choosing a way MDF fasteners on the crate, you will first have to make a solid frame from a metal profile or wooden beams. At the same time, attention should be paid to the fact that wooden structure requires pre-impregnation with antiseptic solutions that will protect it from decay and mold. If it is planned to lay thermal insulation, then the thickness of the bars is chosen according to the thickness of the insulating material. For sheathing brick walls and rooms with high humidity, a wooden frame is not recommended.
To wooden bars during installation they were not deformed, it is worth choosing a well-dried tree. They fix the structure perpendicular to the direction of installation of the panels, leaving a small margin of 5 cm from the floor and 3 cm from the ceiling. First of all, vertical elements are fixed, which are placed along the edges of the recesses, in the corners and next to the openings. Planks should be located at a distance of 700 mm from each other. For fastening the structure, self-tapping screws or nails with a diameter of 4 to 6 mm are usually used.
For Assembly metal structure use UD racks and horizontal CD profiles. The pitch of the crate is similarly 600-700 mm.
The CD profile is inserted into the rack and everything is fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws. metal profiles can be cut with a special circular saw. If the ceiling is finished with panels, then the frame must be assembled only from horizontal elements using additional fasteners.
Paneling
After frame structure ready, start paneling. MDF boards are fixed to each other using a tongue and groove lock, consisting of a recess and a ridge. The parts are fastened to the wooden crate with small nails, they are hammered obliquely with a hammer. To install the material on the metal profile, clamps are used, they are placed in the groove of the plate and fixed with self-tapping screws.
With vertical installation of MDF begin to fix from the corner, smoothly redirecting to the left side. The first plate is attached to the beam with nails, and from the side of the groove, fixation is carried out with clamps. Then the crest of the next plate is placed in the groove of the first. The last panel should be cut to length, leaving a small margin of 5 mm, and its comb cut in half. It must be inserted into the groove of the previous panel and secure the free edge.
For sheathing slopes, pieces of wall slabs are used. To beautifully close the skin, use special corners. They are planted on liquid nails or glue, decorating the edges near doors and windows. In addition, MDF is great for finishing. ceiling surface, in this case, the panels are installed in the direction perpendicular to the base of the walls.
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