How to close the gaps in the floor between the boards: cover the wooden ones, seal the holes from the mice, putty the seams with plywood. How to close the gaps between the floor and the wall? The choice of materials and recommendations How to repair cracks in the floor

Often people are faced with such a problem as the gap between the floor and the wall. They appear over time or due to the unscrupulous approach of finishers when repairing an apartment. These spaces need to be removed as soon as possible. In advance, you should ask yourself how to close the gaps between the floor and the wall. In addition to spoiling the view of the apartment, dampness and drafts penetrate the house through the cracks. The presence of voids can contribute to the appearance of cockroaches. They penetrate through all sorts of cracks. How and with what can one eliminate the gap in the space between the wall and the floor? More on this later.

Stages of work

Sealing gaps does not require much time and effort from the tenants. There are several stages of work:

The size of the space, its depth and length are determined.
Material for work is selected. It all depends on the size of the gap.

What materials can be used?

To close a small gap, the size of which is not more than one centimeter, it is permissible to use building materials such as putty and cement. Mounting plaster is also suitable for use.

If the gap is from two to five centimeters, then it is better to close it with mounting foam. If it is more than five centimeters, then the work will become more complicated. You will have to buy other materials.

What needs to be done at the preparatory stage?

The sealing of the resulting voids can be attributed to cosmetic repairs. How to close the gaps between the floor and the wall depends on the type of damage, as well as on the interior decoration of the room. All preparation will depend on whether the walls and floor in the apartment are decorated. The plinth is removed, as well as the wallpaper. If the plinth for the floor is high, it is worth attaching it back, then the seam will be completely invisible. When there is a layer of paint, it must be removed by stripping. Whitewash is washed out with water. Before starting work, the wall must be completely dry.

All accumulated dirt must be removed around the workspace. When the gap is sealed in an already repaired room, the wallpaper must be partially removed. If the coating allows, only the strip above the floor is removed. You need to buy a film and close all the places where dirt from the work can get. Protective coatings will "save" the floors from the ingress of mounting foam. The paint is difficult to wipe off the surface, care must be taken when painting. When work is planned using water, it is pointless to cover the space around with newspapers or papers.

What to do to remove a large gap?

If it is necessary to seal the gaps between the floor and the wall and the voids are very large, then you can use foam or plastic. When there are unnecessary pieces of brick at hand, they are ideal for repair work. Break large parts into small components. The smaller the parts, the more evenly they will “settle down” inside the gap. The entire cavity will be filled as a result. An important point will be the accurate filling of voids. The task is to prevent further expansion of the void that has arisen.

Some use alabaster in their work. This material is cheap and economically consumed. Beginners in the repair business ask how to breed alabaster. The main thing is to follow the recommendations on the package and not make the solution completely liquid. How to breed alabaster? It should resemble thick glue in composition.

The above materials save a lot of money. How to close the gaps between the floor and ceiling? Mounting foam will cost you a lot, and after “filling” the gaps with improvised materials, you will spend a maximum of one can of foam on the top layer. Such a consumption of foam goes even to large cavities.

Experts advise choosing TechnoNIKOL mounting foam. It has established itself in the market for a long time. A distinctive feature of the TechnoNIKOL polyurethane foam is its quality and quick coupling.

It is necessary to fill the void by one third, a maximum of 50 percent. It is allowed to apply foam only in a thin layer, it is possible to apply several layers. It is worth waiting for the past to dry before applying the next one. With this method of pouring, there will be no excess foam and no flakes will fall out. Material consumption is significantly reduced.

How to close a small or medium void between the floor and the wall?

Often the question arises of how to close the gaps between the floor and the wall, if the space is small. To fill a small gap, you need to have precision movements and dexterity. Soft materials are suitable for work. They must be plastic. It is important that the cavity filler has a high density. Such materials include construction felt. More commonly used tow. To prevent insects from settling in the cracks, they are treated with insect repellant sprays.

The material at hand must be twisted into rolls of small diameter, which is not much larger than the size of the gap. The desired filler is hammered into the gap with a hammer. It is better to take a rubber construction hammer. It will help to fill the void without hindrance. It is necessary that the material is solid and there are no small parts. They usually have gaps.

If the cavity is very small and the tow does not fit in it, then a gypsum mortar helps in this matter. It quickly fills all the gaps. The solution fills the space as much as possible. You can also treat the surface of the walls with it.

In order not to stain surfaces near the place of work, you can purchase self-adhesive construction fabric. When the cavity is clogged, you can begin to work on decorating the seam.

What to do when cracks form in the process of repairing walls?

When a house gets old, the walls deform. The curvature begins, and also dry up for a wooden floor. How to be in such a situation? Professionals advise to seal the gaps between the floor and the wall. The faster the better.

There is an acrylic sealant. They work with the help of a special device in which a balloon is placed. The spaces between the elements are treated with a sealant.

How to work with mounting foam?

In most cases, you have to use mounting foam, even if you need a little. You need to know how to use it correctly. It is necessary to foam the gaps between the floor and the wall immediately after detecting a defect. Here are some tips:

Before filling the space, you need to wet it with water. For this, a special sprayer is suitable. At home, you can take a bottle, make holes in the lid. After spraying, the foam is better fixed inside the cavity.
We should not forget that the foam tends to expand after filling the space. The moisturizing effect enhances expansion. It is necessary to carefully apply the foam in small portions.
The most favorable conditions for sealing cracks with foam are temperatures from plus five to plus twenty-five degrees Celsius. First you need to warm the cylinder in water with the desired temperature.
Before starting work, the packaging with foam must be shaken.
You can work only in specialized glasses and gloves. It is important to remember that the foam is quite caustic in its composition. It firmly settles on the surface and on clothes. If contact with open areas could not be avoided, then it is worth waiting until the material dries, after which it is easier to remove. If the foam has not hardened, it can only be removed with a solvent. It is possible to remove the foam after drying with a construction knife.

How to repair a wall after repairing defects?

Ideally, after removing excess foam, a small depression remains. How do they proceed in such a case? It is usually sealed with a thin layer of putty. Spread evenly with a spatula. Gypsum work is allowed. When the mortar layer hardens, you will get an even seam. It can be closed with a plinth or glue the seam with wallpaper. It is good to choose a floor plinth with a cable channel, it is convenient to mount it. Finishing with tiles or wood is allowed, depending on the design of the room.

When is the best time to start renovations?

It is worth checking for damage between the floor and ceiling before starting finishing work and repairing them quickly. In this case, damage to already repaired surfaces can be avoided. By following these recommendations, you can save money that is spent on finishing materials.

If you had to seal the seam in an already renovated room, then you need to follow all safety measures and try to keep the repair in its original form. Particular care must be taken when using mounting foam. After all, it can expand.

Conclusion

So, we figured out how and with what to close the gaps between the floor and the wall. As you can see, the operation can be completely carried out with your own hands. But in order for the work to be of high quality, you should follow the recommendations of specialists and properly prepare the solution.

Sealing cracks in a wooden floor is required in cases where the boards have dried out during their long operation and some floorboards have begun to creak. Since the wooden floor has been used for centuries, a lot of ways to repair it have been invented during this time, and with the advent of new materials, the possibilities for eliminating flaws have expanded even more.

Therefore, if it becomes necessary to seal the cracks, you can always choose exactly the method that is most accessible in terms of execution. To be aware of ways to solve these problems, you need to consider some of them.

Repair of a wooden coating can be divided into three types:

Complete dismantling of the floor and bulkhead floorboards. To carry out this procedure, you will need a hammer with a nail puller and a small crowbar. Such large-scale events are carried out if there is a suspicion of damage to the lag lathing, on which the floor boards are laid.

The boards are carefully sorted out, healthy and strong specimens are selected from them. If required, they are slightly chipped to even out unevenly shrunken edges.

It is possible that some of the floorboards will have to be completely replaced, so this must be foreseen in advance by purchasing replacement material. If necessary, some elements of the crate are also changed.

After all repair and preparatory actions, the floors are laid again. In this case, the boards should fit tightly and be fixed to the lags.

This type of repair is necessary if sealing gaps, due to their size, is simply inefficient.

Partial dismantling of the boardwalk is carried out in cases where flaws on the boards have formed in certain areas, where wide gaps appeared and the boards began to creak. The flooring in these places is carefully removed, and a new one is laid in its place. Most likely, the second type of repair will have to be carried out in conjunction with the third, most widespread.
In most cases, you only have to perform repair work to seal the gaps. This can be done in many ways. The choice of a particular technique first of all, depends on the size of the cracks and the scale of their spread over the floor surface.

Ways to seal gaps

Slots in the floor boards can appear in various parts of it, so you need to consider not only the technology of work, but also options for sealing materials, as well as places where flaws can occur.

Cracks between wall and planks gender

Between these elements of the structure, small distances are always left for ventilation and in case of expansion of the material during temperature and humidity changes. But if over time they have increased excessively, then they will need to be repaired. This can be done with building foam, sometimes even adding small pieces of Styrofoam to it. The work is carried out in stages:

First you need to carefully dismantle the plinth;

Then clean the cracks from dust and accumulated dirt;

After the foam dries, the excess is cut off exactly along the floorboards;

From above, it would be best to seal the seams with puttyso that dust does not collect in the pores of the hardened foam;

Sealing cracks with glue + sawdust

Repair of the floor, in any of its areas, can be carried out with an adhesive composition, which can be made in one of two ways:

First option

First, small sawdust is prepared. They are placed in a convenient container and poured with boiling water. The mass is mixed until homogeneity is achieved.
The sawdust is left to swell and cool for one to two hours, then the mass is mixed again.
Further, glue (carpentry or PVA) is added to the prepared sawdust, and the mass is well kneaded until a viscous consistency with high adhesion appears.
Then you can proceed to the preparation of the floor - all the cracks are cleaned of dust and dirty deposits. Sometimes, if necessary, their upper part expands a little.
The prepared adhesive mixture is applied to the cracks with a narrow spatula and gently tamped inwards, as far as possible, but without much effort.
From above, the mixture is leveled, its excess is removed.
After complete drying, after two to three days, the cracks are sanded with sandpaper or cycle through using a special machine

Video: homemade sawdust and PVA putty

Second option

You can repair floor coverings in a different way, using a repair compound made of sawdust and glue, but with the addition of cement.

For this, two parts of PVA or wood glue are taken, 15 parts of very warm water are added to this, everything is mixed well until completely homogeneous. Further, 5 parts of cement and the same amount of sawdust are added to the resulting adhesive solution. The mass is mixed and left for 7 ÷ 10 minutes. If the mixture needs to be given a certain color of wood, then you can add a special coloring pigment or thick oil-based paint.
Next, the gaps in the floor are cleaned and lubricated with the glue that was used to make the repair composition described above.
The mass itself needs to be warmed up a little, and then quickly seal the cracks with a narrow spatula, trying to level the surface.
It will take about two weeks for this composition to dry completely. Then the cracks must be treated with abrasive materials to perfect evenness.

This method is often used not only to seal widened cracks, but also to level the floor surface to a smooth state.

Repair with putty

If you don’t want to bother with the manufacture of complex compositions from numerous ingredients, you can, of course, do it easier: purchase a special wood putty at a hardware store and close up the cracks with it. This option is suitable if the gaps not big at all. But you need to know that such autumn putty is often quite short-lived - it can crack and crumble over time. Therefore, it is better to use it when it is planned to then cover the old boards with plywood flooring.

The finished putty is also applied with a narrow or rubber spatula, pressing it into the cracks. After it dries, it is necessary to level the embedded surfaces using the available means of abrasive wood processing.

Sealing gaps with paste and paper

This method is easy to do and not at all expensive. To perform such a process, you will need a paste, paper and a little blue vitriol, or, as it is also called, “blue stone”. This ingredient of the composition is necessary so that nests of various small insects do not appear in the adhesive mass over time.

The paper is torn into small pieces or cut, then it is filled with water. The paper needs to be allowed time to soak.
While the paper pulp is being prepared, you need to prepare a paste. It is brewed from flour or starch and water. The water is brought to a boil and one of the selected ingredients is gradually poured into it, stirring constantly, so that there are as few lumps as possible. The composition must cool to a warm state.
Then copper sulphate 1:10 is added to the paste.
Next, the paper mass must be squeezed out, crushed with your fingers, added to the paste and mixed thoroughly. You should get a fairly thick and homogeneous consistency, like a putty.
The preparation of cracks for sealing occurs in the same way as in other cases. The main thing is to achieve their absolute purity.
Further, the mass is superimposed on the cracks and rammed into them. From above it needs to be well leveled, and after drying - level with sandpaper.
After that, the floor can be safely painted.

Seal gaps with cord

It has long been known how to seal cracks, and not only between floorboards, but also in walls, using a cord selected according to the width of the holes. The use of this folk technology will help not only get rid of cracks in the floor, but also save residents from the unpleasant creaking of the boards.

For the repair process in this way, it is necessary to have twine, rope or cord made of any material, sawdust, wood glue or PVA and putty.

The cord must be passed through the glue so that it is completely lubricated with it.
Next is a mixture of putty, sawdust and glue.
The rope is laid on one of the slots and deepened inward to such a state that it is 2 ÷ 4 mm from it to the floor surface - this is a necessary condition.
The distance from the cord carefully compacted into the slot to the floor surface must be filled with the prepared mixture with a small margin on top, since, upon drying, the adhesive putty will necessarily shrink.

Sealing gaps with strips or wedges

Since ancient times, a more complex method of sealing cracks has also been used - with the help of thin laths hewn at an angle in the form of wedges. These parts must be carefully fitted and should not burst the floorboards much, but at the same time completely close the gaps. The work is carried out in several stages.

As with other repair work on sealing floor flaws, the cracks must be cleaned and their upper part slightly expanded.
Further, according to the size of the gap, a rail is made, narrowed to its lower part, so that it, like a wedge, enters the prepared and cleaned groove.
The slot and rail are densely processed with PVA or wood glue.
Further, the rail is glued into the slot, it can be knocked out a little with a rubber mallet or mallet, or you can place a plank on top and hammer the rail through it with an ordinary hammer.

If the rail has not completely entered the slot, and a small part of it protrudes above the floor surface, then it is removed with a planer after the glue has completely dried.
When using this method of sealing gaps in the floors, the color of the driven wedge will differ significantly from the main coating, so they can be leveled with a stain or well-chosen paint.
If there is a thick layer of paint on the floors, and it is cracked and peeled off around the cracks, it can be removed with a building hair dryer or cleaned with special nozzles on a drill with a soft iron brush. You can also resort to sandpaper mounted on a grinder.

Other repair methods

In addition to the methods mentioned above, there are many other well-known methods. In addition, hardware stores can offer numerous modern materials for these purposes.

Tow is a familiar building material made from flax fibers, which has long established itself with its positive qualities. Therefore, even with the advent of numerous new compositions for sealing cracks and cracks, they are in no hurry to abandon it.

This material is treated with carpentry glue and tamped into the slots with the help of an improvised tool. After the glue dries, the cracks are tinted to match the common floor.

A mixture of epoxy and cement, which is prepared from equal proportions of the material, is excellent for repairing floors with small gaps. This tool is carefully poured into the openings with the top, in the expectation that the mass will sag. Since the cement-mixed epoxy sets quickly enough, it won't have time to seep into the subfloor.

Then, after the glue dries, the cracks are sanded and covered with paint.

A composition made from thick oil paint, sawdust or small shavings and wood varnish in proportions of 1: 4: 1, mixed into a single mass of a uniform consistency, is also excellent for sealing cracks of various sizes. The process can be carried out in one step, when cracks are filled immediately, or maybe in several stages,
when it is called in those cases when such a number of different sizes of gaps have formed between the floorboards that it is unproductive to close them. Therefore, it will be easier, observing all the technologies for working with plywood, to fix it on the floor surface with self-tapping screws and at once close all the flaws that have appeared.
- Well suited for sealing joints and well-known sealant, which has a convenient package and a nozzle in the form of a syringe. Thanks to this special device, you can accurately fill both a wide gap and a very narrow one by cutting the tip to the desired thickness.
The sealant perfectly closes the cracks and frees from the resulting squeak. Spreading under the pressure created in the syringe, it covers the entire inner surface without tamping or applying other efforts. This is a durable and fairly reliable material that will eliminate problems for many years.
Sealants made on acrylic and silicone base, which are designed to work with wood, are well suited for filling cracks. They are very easy to apply and dry quickly. Therefore, if there is no experience in the manufacture of special compounds or there is no desire to mess with them, but there is an opportunity to purchase a ready-made tool for such repairs, you can opt for a sealant.

None of the existing materials has the slightest chance to push the good old tree off the pedestal, loved by everyone for its beauty, environmental friendliness and durability, for its ability to store heat. It is used in many types of construction and repair work, especially wooden floors are attractive and pleasant. However, even such coatings eventually have a big drawback - ugly gaps between the boards. The reason for this is the drying of natural material. Not all owners are ready for drastic changes, and they don’t really want to part with a cozy floor, so the question of how to close the cracks in the floor will always remain relevant. There are several ways, and all of them are quite effective, simple, and therefore do not require special skills from the owners.

Causes of an unpleasant phenomenon

If the owners eliminate the gaps, but do not determine the culprits of their formation, then soon the defects that have appeared will “please” them again. Therefore, the first necessary step is to find the causes of cracks. Several factors can be suspected of "complicity".

Drying out due to natural causes. Any type of wood loses weight over time, but the intensity of this process depends only on the species. The exception is boards that are processed in vacuum chambers; they almost never change geometry. Ordinary building material, on the contrary, is capable of losing from 5 to 10%, or even more: the figures depend on the type and initial moisture content.
Too dry air in the house. In this case, the tree will very quickly give up moisture, which means it will decrease in size. Normal conditions "for life" of such coatings - temperature from +18 to +25 °, humidity from 40 to 65 °.
Laying dry material. The optimum relative humidity for raw materials that are being prepared to become floor coverings is in the range of 8-10%. If the wood is damp, then it will have to dry during operation, and such conditions lead to the appearance of cracks.
Technology disruption. Incorrect installation - poor fastening of the flooring, non-observance of the horizontal lag - the most common causes of loosening, "walking" of the boards, their subsidence, and, of course, deformation.
"Living creature" living underground. Rodents - rats and mice - are required to constantly grind their incisors, so they have to "train" on everything that comes in their way. The second reason is hunger, which pulls them to exploits. These cracks and holes are the most severe "injuries".
Wrong choice of material. Optimum boards made of oak and softwood. A floor made of beech, cherry, pear, maple or ash will definitely require repair, as these types are most susceptible to deformation.
Extremely high operating load.

The scope of work depends only on the size and number of gaps, so repairs can be both simple and incredibly complex. The most serious damage already requires a drastic measure - a complete replacement of the floor.

"Treatment" of cracks with folk remedies

Since the problem has been known to people for a long time, there are quite a lot of ways to get rid of defects. Before work, it is necessary to thoroughly study each type of deliverance, and then choose how to close up the cracks in the floor so as to forget about the flaw for a long time.

Paper, paste, blue vitriol

This method has a big plus - it is cheaper than other "treatment" options, but effective. To camouflage annoying cracks in the floor, carry out the following operation:

Paper (for example, newspaper) is torn into small pieces, then they are filled with water.
While it is soaking, a paste is prepared: starch (or flour) is mixed with warm water, copper sulfate (1:10, where the first is copper sulfate) is poured into the resulting “jelly”.
Squeezed soaked paper is introduced into this composition, the putty is thoroughly stirred until its consistency becomes homogeneous.
After cleaning the gaps from dirt and dust, the gaps are smeared with a mixture, then it is rammed, leveled.
After drying, the surface is lightly sanded with sandpaper, then painted.

Any composition will hold securely only in one case - if high-quality cleaning of the cracks is carried out. When the dirt cannot be removed, the gaps are expanded. Otherwise, the work will be inefficient: the gaps in the floor will appear again.

Sawdust and their "companions"

In this case, there are two ways to prepare a saving mixture: glue (PVA for wood or carpentry) with sawdust alone and a product in which cement is also added for greater strength. A clean composition for small cracks is done like this:

Small sawdust is poured with boiling water, mixed well, closed and left to swell for an hour or two.
Then an adhesive composition is added to them in such an amount that a viscous mass is obtained.
This putty is applied with a spatula, the excess is removed, leveled, and allowed to dry for 2-3 days.
The dried surface is polished.

Slots in the floor, having a width of 3-7 mm, require other sawdust - large. It is even better to take a mixture of different fractions.

sawdust with cement

The preparation of a super remedy with cement requires exact proportions, so measure out:

water (also hot) - 15 parts;
glue - 2 parts;
sawdust and cement - 5 parts each.

The technology here is also different:

Water is poured into the glue and mixed, then the remaining components are added: first sawdust, then cement.
To make the composition have a color similar to the floor covering, oil paint or dry dye is added to it. Let it sit for about 10 minutes.
Before filling the cracks of the floor, the mass is slightly heated. This solution dries for 2 weeks. It is also treated with abrasives.

This composition is used not only for sealing cracks, the method is used to level the entire surface of a wooden floor.

sawdust, varnish and/or paint

Here, the “colleagues” of small chips are other ingredients that are more familiar and familiar to the floor. This composition will be able to "cure" cracks of any depth and width.

Sawdust, thick oil paint and varnish are mixed in a ratio of 4:1:1.
If the gaps are small, then the entire composition is poured immediately.
When the flaw is quite large, the mixture is applied in layers after a short period of time.

Reiki Wedges to the rescue

This method is very common, because it is difficult to argue with the logic of this decision. Thin slats, lubricated with adhesive, are very easy to drive into any cracks, and the gaps hidden in this way will cease to be a headache for a long time (forever?). Do the work like this:

Wedges are prepared from pine boards. The width of the elements must be 0.5 mm less than the gap.
The slots are cleaned, then slightly expanded. The gap and the rail are liberally lubricated with glue. The wedge is driven in with a rubber mallet or hammer, but then a small board is placed on it.
Waiting for the adhesive to dry. The part protruding above the surface is removed with a planer. Tiny defects are camouflaged with a mixture of sawdust and glue.
The wedge is treated with a stain and painted (varnished).

The same gaps in the floor - a rarity, and making wedges for each gap - a little pleasure. Therefore, all holes are adjusted to the same size with a cutter. The advantage of this work is the removal of old wood: the fibers on the fresh cut and wedges guarantee a more reliable connection.

Cement and broken glass

This method is suitable for those who have rodents in the floor, who are happy to try even concrete on the tooth. Therefore, a simple solution is not a panacea, it can quickly turn into a washcloth. And in this case, it is best to first close the seam with broken glass (for example, fragments of rather thin beer bottles), then fill this “anti-personnel ditch” with concrete, and putty on top.

Worthy alternatives to broken glass are dishwashing wire products cut into pieces, store-bought mortar, which includes aluminum chips and concrete mortar. They say that Macroflex mounting foam belongs to this category, unloved by rodents, but such material for the gaps between the boards is not optimal.

Rope, tow, cord

To implement this method, any twine or rope is suitable, the thickness of the cord depends only on the width of the slots in the floor: it must be larger than the holes. You will also need glue (PVA, carpentry), sawdust and putty. The work goes in the following sequence:

The cord is abundantly smeared with glue, it is better to immerse it in the composition and leave it in it for a while. Separately, a mixture of glue, sawdust and putty is prepared.
The cord with the help of a core and a hammer is deepened into the gap between the boards by 2-4 mm. The remaining space is filled with a home-made mixture, but the gap is filled with a margin, since the mixture will shrink when dried.
After it hardens, the seams are covered with paint to match the floor.

To get rid of small gaps, plumbing tow is used in almost the same way, which is also lubricated (moistened) with glue. It is laid in the holes, rammed, and after drying, the floor is painted.

The newest alternative is sealing cord made from polyethylene foam. He does not need glue, 4-5 mm of free space is left on top. It is covered with putty, the best view is an oil-based composition for wood.

Epoxy mix

This method is considered one of the best options for dealing with cracked boards. Epoxy-cement "mortar" is praised because of the reliability, strength of such a composition.

Epoxy glue is mixed with cement in equal proportions. The consistency of this composition should be similar to thick sour cream.
Pour it in with a small margin, because in the process of drying it will shrink.
The last stage is traditional: it is polishing the floor and painting it.

Not everyone welcomes this type of adhesive composition, which guarantees a strong grip. The reason is the frequent emergency during operation - its chipping along with large fragments of boards.

Chipboard, plywood

This is the most original answer to the question of how to close the cracks in the floor. The use of this method is advisable when there are countless cracks in the wooden floor. In this case, "putty work" will take a lot of time. Therefore, the most effective way is to lay sheets of chipboard or plywood. However, after this radical operation, a new top coat will be required.

Sheets are attached to liquid nails, self-tapping screws or ordinary nails. When choosing the last two types of fasteners, holes of a slightly smaller diameter are first drilled in the material than for self-tapping screws (nails). The reason for this is the possible deformation of the material.

Means - professionals

The construction market now does not know the word "deficit", so the choice of different compositions is simply huge. Many of them are designed specifically to mask all sorts of imperfections. Therefore, the question of how to close the cracks in the floor can be asked to sellers, but it is better to get acquainted with possible applicants in advance.

Sealants

Their main “calling” is to make the seams of materials inaccessible to moisture. For work with wooden floors, 2 types of sealants are suitable:

acrylic compositions. Their plus is the ease of rinsing off the hands, a perfectly flat surface, which is obtained after grinding and painting. Cons - the inability to withstand temperature extremes and relatively large shrinkage. However, these disadvantages for the floor in the room are not too terrible.
Silicone sealants are a real lifesaver for walking floors. They have many advantages. This is plasticity remaining after drying, enviable resistance to stress and compression, good adhesive qualities. But there is a minus: such mixtures are not suitable for coloring. Compositions of different colors are sold in stores, but it is not a fact that the owners will be able to successfully choose a shade.

The order of work is as follows:

Slots in the floor are vacuumed, washed and dried.
The sealant is squeezed into the gap, then leveled with a spatula, gloved fingers (finger pads) or a spatula.
Wipe off any excess with a dry cloth.

The operation is simple and uncomplicated, it does not require excessive efforts either. However, the main condition for success is a thorough preliminary cleaning of the cracks.

Mounting foam

Building foam is recommended to be used only for sealing cracks around the perimeter of the room, and not between the boards. The reasons for disapproval are deformation of the coating under pressure, uneven filling, change in the shade of the foam under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. The whole operation for the areas under the baseboards is as follows:

The floor is cleaned of debris and dust. If the gaps are impressive, then thin strips of foam are inserted into them.
The empty space is filled with foam, then they are waiting for it to dry.
The excess is cut off from the seam, and the surface is puttied.

Putty - palliative

This option cannot be considered a reliable replacement for the previous methods, since this composition will eventually begin to crack, crumble, fall out. The limited range of colors is another drawback. Situations in which the use of these mixtures is justified are the expectation of an early repair if the floor is planned to be covered. Work is carried out in the following order:

Putty is applied to the cleaned surfaces with a rubber spatula, pressed into the cracks.
After the composition dries, the seams are leveled with sandpaper.

To seal cracks, some recommend taking parquet putty, as it has greater elasticity and does not crack so readily. If soon they plan to lay tiles or laminate, then they do it much easier: the slots are glued with adhesive tape.

Putty with glue

This method gives a chance to close up small gaps on the floor. It is also suitable if ugly cracks appear on the surface. For this operation, a certain type of putty is required - a dry finish mixture designed for drywall. The same PVA acts as glue.

The composition is mixed in small portions so that its consistency resembles the density of sour cream. After applying it to the cracks, the putty-glue is immediately ground, then quickly leveled, because otherwise it will quickly harden, and in this state it will not be possible to perform the operation qualitatively.

How to deal with "playful" boards?

Such a nuisance happens for two reasons: the incorrect lag step is to blame, or the wrong boards are selected - the material is too thin. There are also two ways out - installing additional logs or installing thicker boards. Both of them are not very attractive, as they involve the dismantling of the flooring. Yes, these options are optimal, but there is a simple way - rallying neighboring elements with dowels. It makes it possible to stop the "game" of the tree, to eliminate the deflection.

This operation is not so elementary, because there are many nuances in it.

Correct drilling of holes at an angle is the first hitch. It is necessary to make sure that there is a sufficient layer of wood between the fasteners and the bottom / top plane of the boards. The angle of inclination is chosen, focusing on the thickness of the material.
Mounting hole diameter. It should be at least 0.5 mm larger than the dowels. The remaining gap will be occupied by glue (clerical PVA), which cannot be squeezed out. It will contribute to the swelling of the fibers, so the connection will become reliable and super strong.
Drill and template. The length of the tool must be maximum, but it is very difficult to find a suitable option. A way out is possible: this is welding a rod of the same diameter. The template will greatly speed up the work, especially at the "beginning of glorious deeds."
Spray gun for glue. It is made from a tube of diameter suitable for the spout of the bottle. The length of the segment is 20 cm. The tube is sealed at one end, and small holes are made in it, which will not allow the glue to stain everything around.

Dowels moistened with glue are installed in holes, also treated with the composition. The compounds are left alone until dry. The raised part of the chopiks is removed with a grinder, and the cut is polished with what is at hand - the same angle grinder, a manual grinder, or a drill with an appropriate nozzle, but at low speeds.

The question of how to close the cracks in the floor can now be considered closed. Since the choice of a suitable material to a greater extent depends on the depth and width of the flaws, the owners will have to decide: any means will do, and it doesn’t matter at all whether they are folk or purchased. However, the best way out is to rally the floor. In this case, the cracks will no longer appear, which means that you can not be afraid that at one “beautiful” moment all the carefully stuffed “good” will fall out again.

One of the options for transforming the slatted floor can be seen in this video:

Over time, cracks, gaps and crevices appear on a wooden floor due to temperature and humidity differences. To get rid of them, it is not necessary to completely shift the coating - you can deal with this problem yourself by covering the damage with special compounds.

When choosing how to seal cracks in a wooden floor, you need to pay attention to the size of the damage and the type of flooring.

Possible options:

wood putty;
building foam with polystyrene;
sealant;
sawdust or paper mixed with the adhesive base;
sealing with wedges, cord or slats;
tow;
sawdust mixed with oil paint;
wax and oil;
epoxy glue with cement;
plywood, OBS or chipboard (for significant damage).

Before covering the cracks, the surface should be prepared: clean it from debris, dirt and dust. Additional treatment of wood with antiseptic agents will protect it from negative factors (fungus, mold, pests) and increase its service life.

Wood putty

A convenient and affordable tool for repairing damage to wooden surfaces.

Putties differ in appearance:

filling is used for cracks, the size of which does not exceed 5 mm;
finishing helps to remove small ones, up to 1 mm.

They can be produced on the basis of solvents or polyester resins or water. Solvent-based formulations are better suited for repairing large damage.

When buying putty, it is advisable to pay attention to the properties of the composition - elastic and water-resistant products are more reliable and will perform their functions longer.

Putty is best used to fix minor damage or as a prep before plywood decking.

Operating procedure:

A solution is applied to the cleaned surfaces with a narrow rubber spatula, pressed into cracks and crevices.
Leave to dry (the specific time for which the putty dries is indicated on the package).
Using sandpaper, level the surface.

Construction foam

The use of mounting foam will increase the soundproofing properties of the floor covering. It is also used to eliminate joints between the wall and floorboards.

Work order:

Since the product is destroyed under the influence of sunlight and other external factors, it is necessary to protect it. To do this, you can apply several layers of paint to the treated surface or putty.

sealant

Eliminating gaps with this tool is simple and fast - the sealant bottle is equipped with a special nozzle that helps to apply the composition precisely to the problem area.

A good wood sealant should be silicone or acrylic based. Due to its liquid consistency, the agent fills the entire area of damage without additional stimulation, evenly distributed. The sealant is elastic, so it will, without cracking, adapt to the dimensions of the boards that change from external conditions.

Colored compositions are commercially available, however, if necessary, the joints can be masked with a finishing putty.

Glue with sawdust or paper

A cheap tool for covering cracks in a wooden floor - sawdust or pieces of paper connected to the adhesive base. The composition prepared independently to fill the damage in its properties and consistency resembles putty.

If you want to eliminate a small gap, the mass is prepared using small sawdust, and for more impressive damage, choose those from which wood filler for cat trays is pressed.

Cord

Repairing damage to a wooden floor with cord is an old and proven method.

Operating procedure:

Tow

Inexpensive and fast way to solve the problem. Linen tow, often used for plumbing work, is safe and environmentally friendly.

Work order:

Reiki

Sealing gaps in a wooden floor with the help of slats is perfect for large, irregularly shaped damage - a tree aged in an adhesive composition becomes flexible and easily enters the gap.

Work order:

The crack between the boards is processed (cleaned, the surface is covered with an antiseptic).
Pick up or plan out the slats that are suitable in size for damage. It is best to use pine boards for this purpose.
Reiki and cracks are treated with glue.
The slats are placed above the slot, hammered into it with a hammer.
The parts of the rail protruding above the floor surface, if any, are removed with a planer after the glue has completely dried.
The repaired floor is covered with paint or stain.

Oil paint and sawdust

The composition is prepared by combining one part of paint and varnish for wooden surfaces with 4 parts of small chips or sawdust. Thoroughly mix the ingredients until a homogeneous consistency is achieved.

Covering cracks with a similar mixture is carried out in 1 stage to eliminate small damages, but for large ones, several applications will be required.

Linseed oil and wax

The tool can be used to eliminate minor defects on a wooden floor. The components are heated, mixed, and the still hot composition is poured into the damage sites.

Before starting work, the floor surface should be thoroughly cleaned so that debris and dirt do not get inside with the mixture.

Epoxy with cement

Suitable for repairing small gaps, it is reliable.

The ingredients are taken in equal proportions, mixed; immediately, until the mixture has hardened, pour it into the cracks. It is necessary to fill in the places of damage so that a little product protrudes above the surface - after drying, the remains are cut off with a knife, the floor itself is polished and painted.

Plywood

If the damage in the floor is significant, almost every floorboard is at a distance from the other, use plywood, chipboard or OSB boards.
Previously, slats can be hammered into especially large cracks, and the entire surface can be covered with putty to improve the quality of the repair.

Work order:

In the most problematic places, the boards are fixed to the joists with nails or self-tapping screws. Hats should be removed from them so that nothing rises above the surface.
Plywood is laid on the floor. Each sheet is fixed with self-tapping screws at the edges and in the center, the distance between the fasteners is no more than 30 cm.
The flooring is sanded, the floor finishing material is laid on the surface.

To fix plywood sheets, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws 36 mm long with plastic dowels.

It is quite simple to deal with cracks and crevices in a wooden floor with your own hands, the main thing is to follow the technology and work procedure.

Wooden floors are a decoration of any home. However, wood is a fragile material that requires constant care and may lose its qualities and attractiveness over time. Due to prolonged use, wooden floors begin to creak, the boards can dry out, cracks appear, and the coating has to be repaired. Sealing cracks in a wooden floor is a painstaking task, but it is easy to do and even a person who does not have special skills can do it. There are several ways to improve your floors and extend their lifespan.

Conventionally, the repair of wooden floors can be divided into three types:

Complete, which includes the dismantling of the previous coating and the bulkhead of the floorboards;
Partial - does not require complete dismantling;
"Cosmetic" - sealing cracks in a wooden floor.

The first option is the most labor intensive. It is necessary in cases where the joists of the crate on which the floorboard is laid are damaged. Using a crowbar and a hammer with a nail puller, the coating is dismantled. Boards are carefully inspected for defects, specimens that have become unusable should be replaced with new ones. If necessary, lags are also subject to replacement. After that, the floors are laid again. The boards are fitted close to each other and fixed on the logs. After the repair, there may be differences in height. The floor is leveled with a planer.

If the damage to the boards is local, then complete dismantling is not required. If wide gaps have formed between the boards, it is enough to remove the flooring in the right place and lay a new one.

Replacing part of the wooden flooring in the photo

With careful operation and timely care of the wooden floor, you can get by with cosmetic repairs and only close up the cracks. This work can be done in a variety of ways. The choice of method depends on the reasons for the appearance of cracks, the location of defects and their size.

Reiki or wedges

One of the most common and effective ways to get rid of gaps in a wood floor is to use slats. Their advantage lies in the fact that the slats, pre-coated with glue, are very flexible and therefore easy to hammer into the slot. Let's take a look at this method in more detail.

Use a cutter to process the gaps between the boards, drive in the dowels.
From dry pine boards, make slats of the desired size. For example, for a gap of 8 mm, a rail of 7.5 mm is suitable. Reiki should have a tapered downward shape, like a wedge.
Apply glue to rails and crevices.
Glue the slats and knock them out with a mallet or an ordinary hammer, placing a plank on top of the slat. If there are minor defects, they can be puttied with a mixture of sawdust and PVA.

Sealing gaps with wedges

After the adhesive has dried, sand the surface with a grinder with sandpaper.
Disguise traces of repair. To do this, you need to stick masking tape along the board so that the joint is invisible, and then apply stain (or paint matched to the tone) and varnish.

A visual diagram of eliminating the gap between the boards

Glue with sawdust

You can also repair a wooden floor with glue mixed with sawdust. There are two options here: prepare a mixture of only glue and sawdust, or add more cement.

Option one:

Pour boiling water over sawdust of fine fraction and mix thoroughly.
Leave the mixture to swell for one to two hours and mix again.
Add PVA or wood glue to the sawdust and knead the mixture until it is viscous.
Clean gaps from dirt and dust. If necessary, the upper part of the gaps can be expanded.
Apply adhesive mass with a spatula to the gap and tamp inward. Smooth the mixture and remove excess.
After the glue has dried (it will take 48-72 hours), sand the cracks with sandpaper or scrape with a special tool.

Option two:

Knead the adhesive mass. To two parts of glue add 15 parts of hot water and mix until smooth. Then add five parts of cement and five parts of sawdust. Stir and let the solution stand for 10 minutes. The mixture can be immediately given the desired color by adding thick oil paint or coloring pigment to it.
Clean the cracks in the floor and cover them with the glue that was used to prepare the mixture.
The mass itself must first be heated and then quickly close the gaps between the floorboards, leveling the surface with a spatula.
After 14 days, when the applied mass is completely dry, level the surface with abrasive materials.

Homemade putty for sealing small cracks and cracks: a mixture of sawdust and PVA glue

This method is applicable not only for sealing cracks in wooden floors, but also for leveling the floor surface.

Other repair methods

Those who do not have the time or desire to mess around with mixing the adhesive solution can use simpler ways to seal gaps. For example, you can buy wood putty in the store. However, it should be noted that, firstly, this method is applicable if the gaps in the floors are small, and secondly, the repair will not be durable, since the putty tends to crack and crumble over time.

The main ways of redecorating wooden flooring

One of the cheapest ways to get rid of gaps between boards is with paper, paste, and blue vitriol. How it's done?

Pour water over small pieces of paper and let them soak.
Prepare a paste from flour (starch) and water.
In a warm paste, add copper sulfate in a ratio of 1:10.
Squeeze out the paper mass, grind it and add to the paste. Thoroughly mix the mass. As a result, it should have a homogeneous, thick consistency.
Clean gaps from dust and dirt.
Cover the cracks with a mass, leveling the surface.
Level the surface with abrasive materials.
After the composition has dried, paint the floor.

You can also repair a wooden floor with a cord. So you can not only close up the cracks, but also the floorboards. To work, you will need a cord across the width of the gaps, sawdust, putty and wood glue or PVA.

Coat the cord with glue.
Mix glue, sawdust and putty.
Lay the twine in the gap so that the distance between it and the floor surface is no more than 4 mm.
Fill this distance with the prepared mass. There should be a slight excess on top, since the mass, gradually drying out, “sits down”.

Scheme for sealing a gap with a cord

If mice have gnawed through the floor

If there are mice in the house, they can gnaw through the floor, and cracks will appear as a result. The above methods of embedding are indispensable here, since an unpleasant story can repeat itself. To prevent this, the cracks must first be filled with a mixture of cement and broken glass. After that, the gap is sealed with putty (you can use a store-bought one or prepare the mixture yourself). Then the place of repair is skinned and covered with paint.

For a better seal, instead of cement and broken glass, you can use a concrete solution with aluminum chips.

In addition to the described ways to close the gaps between the floorboards, there are many others. The most modern of them, according to professionals, is the use of silicone or acrylic-based sealants, which are designed specifically for woodworking. If you have something to add write comments!