TO category:
Carpentry work
Consolidation, merging and building up
Rallying. When joining, the width of the manufactured part is increased by connecting individual boards or beams, called plots, into one whole. They use rallying to make shields (covers of stools, tables, panels).
There are several various types rallying.
Joining end-to-end with straight edges and into a hacksaw is done with cleanly grooved edges, which are coated with glue along the entire length and then compressed. To check the density of the fugue, the plots should be placed one on top of the other with their edges edged, so that along the fugue on the lower plot you get a step half the width of the edge. When viewing the fugue from the side illuminated from above, any irregularity will appear in the form of a dark line or stroke.
You can use flat and round tenons to fugu. The diameter of the round spikes should be no more than half the thickness of the plots, the length should be 3-4 times greater than the thickness, and the distance between the spikes should be 100-150 mm. The thickness of the flat spike should be 1/3 of the thickness of the plots, the length should be twice, and the width should be 1-2 times the thickness.
When joining in a quarter, longitudinal side cuts (quarters) are made in both boards being joined. The depth and width of the quarter should be equal to half the thickness of the plots. For a tighter seal, the quarter sponge extending to the reverse side is sometimes made narrower by 0.5 mm. The consolidation associated with the selection of quarters causes unnecessary consumption of wood.
The joining into a frieze with a protrusion in the form of a cornice is done in the same way as in a quarter.
Rice. 1. Types of rallying
When joining into a rectangular tongue in the edge of one board, select a groove in the middle along the edge with a width of 1/3 of the thickness of the board, and in the edge of the other board - a protrusion (ridge), slightly in size smaller size groove. The tongue of one board fits into the groove of another board.
When joining into a triangular tongue and groove, the groove and tongue are made not rectangular, but triangular. On one edge, select a groove with a width and depth of no more than 1/3 of the thickness of the plot; on the other, a ridge of appropriate size is made. The ridge ribs are slightly oval, since the straight ridge does not fit well into the tongue.
Tongue and tongue raking also wastes wood.
In order to save wood, only grooves are made in all edges, and the ridge is replaced with an insert strip, one half of which fits into one groove, and the other half into the other. This connection is called bonding to the rail. The width of the tongue and the thickness of the lath should be equal to Vs the thickness of the boards being joined.
With all methods, the panels are assembled from plots no more than 100 mm wide, since wide plots warp more. The plots to be bonded should be placed in annual layers in different directions so that they are at an angle to each other, and the glued edges, if possible, are either sapwood or soundwood.
To reduce warping, the panels are held together with dowels, into a tip, or tied with a frame.
When the boards are held together by dowels, then in the assembled board on its reverse side, grooves with a depth of 1/3 of the thickness of the board are selected across the boards. The grooves have a trapezoidal cross-section; their length tapers somewhat toward one end. Dowels (bars) are driven into the grooves without glue or with glue applied to one end of the dowel.
When choosing grooves for keys manually, first make cuts to the required depth, and then use a primer or chisel from narrow end cut to a wide one, choose wood.
The grooves are also selected on milling machines using an end mill in two passes in a template offset by the bevel angle of the key.
Sometimes, for better bonding of the boards, the grooves are placed with narrow sides in different directions. The dowels should protrude slightly above the surface or be flush with the bonded shield.
When rallying into a tip (or into awards), a ridge is cut at the ends of the shield, and a groove (tongue) is cut out in the attachment bar, called an award or tip. The thickness of the ridge should be equal to 1/3 of the thickness of the shield. Sometimes spines are made instead of a ridge.
The tips are placed on the ridges flush with the face of the plywood board. It is possible to join panels with tips for those products that will be in more or less constant humidity and temperature conditions. With significant changes in humidity, the board plots with tips will dry out across the fibers many times more than the tips along the fibers, and then cracks will form in the board. To prevent this, you should glue the tips only in the middle of their length or pin them onto the comb and spikes without glue. Boards with this kind of connections are used for table tops and drawing boards.
To reduce warping of the boards, they are tied with a frame with grooves or folds. To do this, the shield is inserted into the frame without glue, since when the shield dries out, the glue contributes to the formation of cracks. In case the shield swells, a gap of up to 2 mm is left between its edges and the bottom of the groove or fold. To eliminate the mobility of the shield in the frame, rubber gaskets are inserted into the gap. Sometimes the shield is attached at the ends to the frame with pins, so that when it dries, the shift of its parts is the same on both sides.
A frame with folds is more convenient than a frame with grooves. The shield inserted into the folds is secured with a layout. This makes it possible not to disassemble the frame when changing the shield or repairing it.
Splice. A splice is an end connection used to increase the length of manufactured wood parts.
Parts that do not experience loads, such as skirting boards, are spliced end-to-end, into an oblique joint. This is done by cutting at an angle of 45°. For precision cutting, it is recommended to use a miter box.
Load-bearing parts are spliced using a sharper oblique joint - an oblique ridge with a ridge along the entire length of the cord or with small shadows at both ends of the joint. This connection is very strong, especially when splicing curved parts at bending points, for example the frame of a bent chair.
Parts experiencing transverse compression are spliced with a straight half-timber overlay (connection with a straight joint) and secured with two dowels. For greater strength, half-timber linings are made with an oblique joint, and to prevent mixing, the ends are processed at an angle.
Strong joints when spliced are provided by a wedge lock, a simple overhead lock and a mustache joint.
In parts requiring increased strength, the length of the whisker joint must be at least eight times the thickness.
A more durable splice is obtained using spikes. The most widespread is the splicing with a wedge-shaped or jagged tenon. With this type of splicing, a large area is formed for gluing the ends and half, ensuring a strong connection and more economical use of wood. A wedge-shaped connection can be made both along the width of the part and its thickness.
Rice. 2. Splicing with overlay, butt and notches
Rice. 3. Splicing with tenons
Parts undergoing tension are spliced with an open tenon " dovetail", but this splicing requires support from below. Splicing in half a tree and on a combined dovetail tenon does not require support from below.
The dovetail tenon can be cut by hand or by machine. When processed by machine, the tenon and eyes are rounded and are not used for splicing.
Splicing with a solid tenon can be a tenon with a straight joint, an oblique joint, or a double tenon. The dimensions and shape of the solid tenon depend on the dimensions and shape of the cross-section of the part being joined. A more durable splice is obtained with a straight tenon with shoulders in the end na:i.
Extension. This is a method of connecting vertically in length, in which one element serves as a continuation of the other.
When building up, use a square or rectangular solid tenon, as well as a round insert one. The round tenon is made with a thickness equal to half the diameter of the round part or half the width of its narrower rectangular section.
High-quality installation of plank floors - difficult task. But it can be simplified if you use it for assembly regular board, but tongue and groove. The presence of tenons and grooves on the side edges allows such boards to be connected to each other as parts of a construction set. The result is a smooth, environmentally friendly floor without cracks and, if necessary, without the visual presence of fasteners. For the result to be just like this, you need to know how to choose tongue-and-groove boards, how to lay them and connect them together, and how to replace broken floorboards. Let's talk about this in more detail.
What is a tongue and groove board?
They call it tongue and groove floorboard, on one edge of which is carved longitudinal groove, and on the other there is a tongue (tenon, ridge). When assembling the floor, a tenon of the adjacent one is inserted into the groove of one board. The connection is tight, with virtually no gaps.
Unlike edged boards, the front side of a tongue and groove board is sanded smooth and does not require additional leveling or processing with a plane. The reverse side may not be processed, but in any case it has special grooves for ventilation. They ensure free circulation of air in the floor space and, accordingly, prevent wood rotting.
At proper styling and the consolidation of tongue and groove boards, there are completely no gaps between them. This prevents squeaks and rapid wear of the wooden covering.
The disadvantage of a tongue and groove floor is considered to be its high tendency to deform (warping, swelling) when the humidity in the room fluctuates or when wet boards are used during installation.
Choosing good building materials
To avoid problems with the finished floor, you should take a responsible approach to the choice of tongue and groove boards and the method of storing them.
Aspect #1 - wood type
The first thing people pay attention to is the quality and type of wood. Tongue and groove boards are made from:
- Spruce and pine– inexpensive, easy-to-process breeds. Their main advantage is their low price. In addition, they have excellent heat capacity, so spruce and pine floors always seem warm. However, it is better not to use them for floors in high traffic areas. Women's heels, furniture legs, fallen objects - all this can leave wooden surface noticeable dents. Varnishing is required.
- larches– hard coniferous, characterized by moisture resistance and durability. Larch boards have a beautiful, clear structure and rich color. Thanks to this, it is not necessary to cover it with stains and varnish.
- Oak and ash– durable, hard rocks. Their wood has a clearly defined texture and rich shade. Ash and Oak planks are considered the most reliable and durable. However, they are also the most expensive.
Aspect #2 - board sizes
The dimensions of the tongue and groove boards should also be taken into account. They may differ significantly. Ideally, the length of the boards should match (or be slightly less than) the length of the wall along which they will be laid. The thickness of the coating determines the reliability of the coating and the price. Standard sizes tongue and groove boards are as follows:
- length – 1-6 m;
- width – 70-200 mm;
- thickness – 18-45 mm.
Aspect #3 - quality class
Tongue and groove boards are sorted by quality class. There are 4 classes in total:
- Extra - the highest class or, as it is also called, euro sheet pile. This is the most expensive material, without knots, cracks, with a uniform structure and shade.
- A – material without cracks or knots, some inhomogeneity of shade is allowed.
- B – single stains and cracks are allowed.
- C – economy class, with the presence of multiple knots, single through holes, cracks. Typically, class C boards are used for subfloor installation.
This is what it looks like:
Aspect #4 - Humidity
The ideal moisture content of tongue and groove boards is 12-16%. If the boards are poorly dried, then deformation of the finished floor is inevitable. Cracks and warping of boards often occur. There will almost certainly be gaps between the boards, so the floor will have to be re-laid.
The moisture content of the boards can be determined using a moisture meter. If this device is not available, you can get by with simpler evaluation methods:
- When tapped with your knuckles, dry (suitable for flooring) wood produces a ringing, clearly audible sound. A wet board, on the contrary, sounds dull, barely audible.
- If you touch a wet board, you can feel the dampness. There is no feeling of moisture on a dry board.
- The color of a wet board is darker than that of a dry board. Also, after high-quality industrial drying, the surface of the board acquires a noticeable shine. A damp board remains matte.
- There should be no condensation inside the packaging film. Droplets of moisture on the film always indicate excessive moisture on the boards.
On what basis is it better to lay tongue and groove?
After purchasing tongue and groove boards, you can proceed to laying them. As a base you can use:
- Wooden logs fixed on top of any covering - screed, plywood, wooden floor. Also, logs can be laid on brick supports.
- Concrete floors with screed.
- Moisture-resistant plywood.
- Old wooden floor.
- Subfloor made of tongue-and-groove boards or low grade lumber.
Pre-fixed joists are considered the gold standard in construction. They allow you to efficiently tighten the boards during installation and prevent further floor deformations. Therefore, we recommend that you choose this option.
Technology for installing tongue and groove boards on joists
It is important that the laying of tongue and groove boards is carried out in two stages. First, the boards are mounted with partial fastening (usually fastening is performed only for every 4-5 boards in a row). After six months or a year, the floor is re-laid and each board is fastened. Such measures are necessary, since the boards usually dry out a little during the first six months of being in the room, and small gaps appear between them. Therefore, the boards have to be laid again, joining them more tightly.
Bark beetles and fungi like to live in wood. To avoid this, special impregnations are used - antiseptics and fire retardants. We talk about them in the material: .
To assemble a tongue and groove wooden floor you will need:
- tongue and groove boards;
- fixed logs - as a base;
- screws (or nails);
- screwdriver;
- hammer;
- level;
- brackets or stops, wedges (or screw jack).
Step #1 - laying the first board
The first board is selected as flat as possible, equal in length to the length of the wall. The board is laid with a tenon against the wall, at a distance of 10-15 mm from it. This will allow the wood to expand freely when exposed to temperature and humidity. In the future, the gap will be covered with a plinth.
The first board is secured as firmly as possible by vertically screwing self-tapping screws tightly through the entire thickness into each joist. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use nails, driving them into the board and joist with a hammer.
Step #2 - installation and joining of subsequent boards
The next board is laid next to the previous one. Using a hammer, through a spacer block, the groove is pressed onto the tongue. 3 more boards are laid in the same way, without fastening. At the bottom of the groove of the fourth board, holes are drilled at an angle of 45° above each joist. Screws are screwed into the holes. Such fastening is temporary and requires re-laying the floor with fastening of each board (and not just the fourth) after the final aging of the wood.
To ensure tight bonding of the boards during fastening, they are tightened. You can do this in the following ways:
- Using staples and wedges. A bracket is driven into the joist 10-15 cm from the board. A wooden spacer is applied to the board - a piece of board 50-70 cm long. Two wedges are driven between the spacer and the bracket. The wedges are placed opposite each other with sharp ends. By hitting the free ends of the wedges with a hammer (or two hammers at the same time), the boards are pulled together. The tongues fit tightly into the grooves, leaving no gaps. Then screw in the screws.
- Using stops and wedges. The joining is carried out similarly to the previous method. The difference is that instead of staples, wooden stops are used. The stop is an ordinary block or board that is attached to the joist with nails or self-tapping screws. The distance from the top of the stop to the board being laid should be equal to the total thickness of the narrow parts of the two wedges.
- Using wedge-shaped compression with a movable bracket and wedges. The clamp is secured to the joist, and two wedges are driven in with a hammer between its supporting parts. The boards are being joined together.
- Using a screw jack. At a short distance from the laid floorboards, nail support board. The heel of a screw jack is rested on it, which is laid along the joist. The floorboard is pulled together through a piece of tongue-and-groove board (gasket).
Step #3 - laying the last row
The last board is laid in place, a wedge is driven between it and the wall. After joining, the board is secured tightly with self-tapping screws (nails) through the entire thickness. The wedge is removed.
If the last board does not fit in width, it is cut lengthwise circular saw. There should be a deformation gap of 10-15 mm between the wall and the board.
Repair of tongue and groove floors
Tongue and groove floors are quite reliable, but during use, damage to one or more boards may occur. Then they are taken out of the common monolith of the floor and replaced with new ones. To do this, the ridges of the boards are cut with a circular saw with a rounded end of the blade. You can also use a jigsaw or a hacksaw with a narrow blade.
Replacing boards is carried out according to the following scheme:
- Several cuts are made along the board to be replaced with a saw, jigsaw or hacksaw. The depth of the cuts is slightly less than the thickness of the board, that is, without through slots.
- Using a chisel, punch the ridges of the boards along the slots.
- Remove the damaged board and the remains of the ridge from the groove.
- A new board is inserted in place of the removed board.
Thus, by replacing damaged boards as needed, you can extend the life of your tongue and groove floor for many decades.
All photos from the article
Sometimes, when carrying out construction and other work using wood, it is necessary to make elements longer or wider, but very few people know how to do this correctly. That is why we will look at how to splice boards yourself and what methods and techniques exist. It is important to choose the option that is best suited in a given situation and will require minimum costs time and money.
Basic workflow requirements
Before we begin to consider specific options for carrying out work, it is necessary to understand what factors will ensure that we obtain the expected result:
| Material quality | Everything is simple here: it is impossible to make it from low-quality wood. durable structures, this is especially true for joints; if they have knots, damage from woodworms, mold and other problems, then there can be no question of any reliability and durability. Choose the most best elements so as not to waste energy and money |
| Humidity | Another the most important parameter, which should always be taken into account. Only dry elements are suitable for work, since high humidity, firstly, it reduces strength, secondly, it reduces the adhesion of the adhesive composition when using it, and thirdly, after completion of the work, no one will guarantee that in a week or month the structure will not move or it will not crack |
| Connection Loads | The choice of one or another connection option largely depends on this indicator; the greater the load, the higher the requirements for the quality of the connection and the more complex the process. Therefore, decide in advance which option will be used to ensure a good result. |
| Using a quality tool | A lot also depends on this, especially when it comes to complex options when the connection is cut with special devices. They must ensure maximum cutting quality and maximum joining accuracy, since reliability largely depends on this |
Important!
Remember one simple rule that experts always use: to get best result It is necessary that the parameters of the elements being connected are similar; in other words, the same type of wood must be used.
Work options
All events of this kind can be divided into two large groups - joining boards in width and length; we will consider them separately and tell you which techniques are the most popular and how to implement them correctly.
Width connection
Of course, the simplest solution would be a panel splice option, so we will start with it, first present a diagram of the main options, and below we will describe them in detail:
- The first method involves cutting out a cavity using a milling machine, which has a trapezoidal shape and allows the use of a key as a retainer.. The advantage of this solution can be called reliability, and the disadvantage is the need for milling machine or availability hand router for carrying out work, hand tools you can't get by here;
- Joining using an end block, which is connected to the ends of the board using the tongue-and-groove method, is used for elements of short length, because this option ensures high reliability of small structures. Again you will need it for work. With its help, it will be carried out quickly and efficiently;
- You can make a cutout along the end, fit a strip under it and place it on wood glue, it's also pretty interesting option, which is suitable for small-sized structures;
- The last two options involve gluing a triangular strip, only one of them cuts into the end, and the second option involves cutting the end at an angle, you need to choose what would be better suited in one situation or another.
But if you want to connect the board more securely, then one of the following methods will do:
- The first option is called a smooth joint, which requires very careful grinding of the ends for a tight fit, after which they are lubricated with glue and connected under a press or using special ties. This solution is suitable in cases where high load bearing capacity need not;
- The traditional tongue-and-groove option is often used; here it is important to ensure the optimal connection configuration, so the width of the groove and, accordingly, the tongue should not be more than a third of the width total thickness boards, it is important to cut very precisely so that the elements match perfectly, this will significantly increase the strength of the connection;
Important!
When working, a milling cutter is most often used, but cutters can have different configurations; you should monitor the condition of their cutting edges and sharpen or replace them in a timely manner, since the quality of the connection largely depends on the cleanliness of the processing.
- You can use the option of cutting at an angle; it is well suited where special strength is not required, but elements that can be used for finishing, etc. need to be well connected;
- The triangular tongue and groove is in many ways similar to a regular one, only the configuration of the ends differs. It is also important here that the elements fit perfectly together, as this will ensure both the accuracy of the pairing and its maximum reliability;
- The quarter connection is simple - cuts are made at half the thickness, the length of the protrusions should not greatly exceed the thickness, the elements are lubricated with glue and compressed until the composition dries, this is a standard procedure for almost all options;
- The last type is keyed joining, it does not differ from the option described above when carrying out work along the width, the requirements are the same.
Conclusion
Connecting the board correctly and securely means ensuring its maximum strength; it is important to follow all recommendations and use only quality materials. The video in this article will show some options for carrying out the work visually, and if you have questions or additions, please leave a comment.
(from German Spund; Polish szpunt)
1) In art, a tool that is used by sculptors in the initial processing of stone. It looks like a steel round or tetrahedral rod with a pointed end. The tongue is struck with an iron hammer, and the tongue is also used for initial cutting.
There are manual and mechanical tongues.
Manual tongue and groove - designed for manual roughing (breaking and spitting) of products made of granite and other hard rocks.
Mechanical tongues - designed for mechanical roughing (breaking and spitting) of granite and other hard rocks using pneumatic hammers.
When working with stone, they mainly perform the following work:
- Giving the stone a certain shape and size;
- Processing a stone surface of a certain structure and type;
- Making stone;
- Sawing and polishing of artistic and decorative stone.
Give the stone a certain form and size to give it decorative look. The stone is processed using a tongue and groove after it has been chipped or wedged. The permissible deviation of the dimensions of the part after processing with a tongue and groove from the specified ones is ±5 mm. Improved tongues are equipped with a carbide pin at the working end.
The rocks are processed with a tongue and groove, which has a working end pointed to a cone at an angle of 60-70° for hard rocks and 20-25° for medium-hard rocks. Soft breeds stone is not treated with tongue and groove. This tool is used to perform a precision strike.
2) IN carpentry- a longitudinal ridge on the edge of a board or beam, corresponding to a groove on the edge of another board or other beam. It is also a way to connect such boards or beams.
3) IN construction practice- a wooden, metal or reinforced concrete pile with a tongue and groove.
4) In winemaking, a special cork used to seal unfermented wine in a barrel.
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