A DIY circular saw is a great way to save a lot of money. cash and at the same time acquire fairly high-quality and reliable equipment. A properly assembled homemade circular saw is in no way inferior to a factory saw and is also capable of sawing logs of even very large diameters.
The circular saw is used for even cut lumber.
How to make a homemade circular?
In order for the circular saw to easily cut large logs, it is necessary to equip it with a truly powerful electric drive. In addition, for this purpose, a belt drive, a shaft and an engine with high strength traction. All handmade circular saws consist of two parts: upper and lower.
In the lower part there is always various electrical equipment, namely:
- saw motor;
- transformer;
- device that starts the circulation.
In the upper part of the circular saw set:
- pulley;
- cutting disc.
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Large homemade circular saw
When making a frame for the top of the saw, it is best to use a metal corner 25 mm wide. In this case, the rectangle, which will be the frame of the upper part of the homemade circular, should have dimensions of 600x400 mm. Further, four pipes are welded in the corners of this quadrangle, the diameter of which should be 17 mm and the height should be approximately 2.2 m.
After that, two corners must be strengthened on the frame, on which the bearings will later be fixed. The distance between these corners directly depends on the length of the shaft. To fix the bearings, as a rule, clamps are used. It is best if the bearings mounted on a homemade circular are closed type. So you can not be afraid that wood chips will fall into the space between the balls, rings and cage. Don't forget to also cut the threads at the very end of the shaft so that you can later install a cutting disc on it.
The lower part of the circular saw should be made much more massive, which will provide it with the necessary stability and reliability. Therefore, in the manufacture of the lower frame, you need to take a corner with a width of at least 40 mm. Further across the frame, it is necessary to fix two more additional corners, on which the engine of a home-made circular will be held in the future. The most suitable motor for a do-it-yourself circular saw is an asynchronous three-phase motor with a power of at least 1.5 kW and 1500 rpm. The pulley stream should be large enough, approximately 80 mm, and should be mounted directly on the shaft itself. In addition, you will need to weld a rather small metal platform to the frame, which will accommodate starting device. Large pipes 2.2 m long, which were previously welded by you in the corners of the frame, are necessary for high-quality tension of the belt so that the metal lambs tighten the thin pipes.
Now, in the finished supports made of pipes, it is necessary to insert both the lower and upper parts of the homemade saw, and then tighten and tighten the belt with metal winglets. Starting the motor in this model of the circular with your own hands is carried out using starting capacitors. In order to load the motor and increase its torque, a 220/36 400 W transformer can be used.
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Pendulum circular with electric motor
It is quite easy to make a homemade circular saw to cut logs and blocks of wood, the thickness of which corresponds to the power of the electric drive installed on it. If you intend to work with large and very thick pieces of wood, then you should equip your homemade saw a truly powerful electric motor, as well as install a shaft and a belt drive on it. best solution in this case, a special pendulum bed will be installed.
When making a pendulum circular with your own hands, only very strong steel corners should be used as the material for the frame. Next, on the finished steel frame, you will need to place all the mechanisms necessary for the normal operation of a homemade circular saw. With this design, you can personally, without any special efforts set the flight height of the cutting disc, while avoiding excessive design difficulties.
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Circular mini saw: instructions for making
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Base for mini circular
For the manufacture of such homemade products you will need:
- two metal plates;
- wooden beam;
- spindle from a bicycle;
- star;
- chain.
The mini-circular should stand on a solid and stable table, since any rocking can be dangerous to human health and also interfere with normal operation of the saw. Before proceeding with the manufacture of a machine from a hand-held circular saw, it is necessary to make a special table. In this case, metal goats and an ordinary old one can be used as a bed. kitchen table. First you need to connect the goats to each other with a wide wooden board at least 50 mm thick, and then fix the kitchen table on this base.
You can make the tabletop itself from two metal (preferably steel) plates with a cross section of about 4 mm. In addition, for this purpose, you can use thick wooden blocks.
It is important not to forget to leave between metal sheets a small gap, the size of which is usually 10-12 mm.
In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of the metal plates are perfectly parallel with respect to each other. Now that the table is completely ready, you can begin to attach the circular saw itself to it. It is important to note that it should be fixed from below, and in such a way that its cutting disc is directly in the gap between two sheets of the table top.
How can I make a circle do it yourself?
Circular saw. this is perhaps one of the most useful and necessary tools for a master engaged in the construction of private housing or building his own country house. At the same time, many craftsmen are interested in how to make a circle with their own hands in order to save on its purchase. Presented online today a large number of various options, each master adds something to his design. We won't search for everyone available options, but we will consider the most popular ones, according to which many homemade circulars have already been made.
Circular saw with Bulgarian
This is perhaps the most common version of the homemade circular saw. The advantage of this option is the simplicity of the design. You do not need to think about how to transfer the rotation of the motor to the spindle, how to organize all the necessary pulley structures, etc. in the design of the Bulgarian, this is all already provided. Naturally, in order to turn into a circular saw, you need to use a fairly powerful model that will provide a quality cut. In principle, the transformation itself here comes down to replacing the grinding wheel with a saw and attaching the device to a stable surface.
However, there are also such disadvantages:
- a disc with a larger diameter cannot be placed in Bulgarian;
- fastening the grinder is possible only from the side, so the width of the sawn tree will be limited.
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Therefore, it is better to make a circular saw. it attaches easily from the underside of the table right in the center and allows the use of larger discs. To do this, attach the saw sole to the table top with screws. Maintenance of special equipment of this kind, despite independent production, is best left to professionals to protect yourself from injury.
Circular their hands/How make a circular from the engine from the washing machine
In this video you will see the most powerful and highly resourceful circular in the world do it yourself, Building a Table saw, .
Circular
Example homemade machine. circulars from improvised means. Pretty good option. Tool:.
Powerful pendulum saw
This is a more powerful and, therefore, more productive saw; a sufficiently powerful separate electric motor is used to drive it. To work with particularly thick wood, it is recommended to make a circuit according to the following scheme:
- a strong stationary frame is welded;
- a smaller lift frame is installed at the bottom, which is attached to the main frame with the extreme edge and is connected to the height adjuster from the front edge. Such a regulator can be made of a vertical threaded pin and rotary mechanism, which changes the height of the saw and the height of its disc exit to the surface from the tabletop;
- In addition, a system is required to connect the engine and the saw; for this, the design must provide appropriate shafts and.
An important point is the round table
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The main difference between a circular saw and a simple circular saw is its stationarity. Therefore, we need to create a special round table.
For the tabletop, you can take thick plywood 2 cm thick or just a tabletop from an old table. It is marked below under the mount of the circular saw and under the installation of the stiffeners to which the legs of the table will be attached.
In addition, stiffeners are needed around the entire perimeter of the table. They need to be glued to the joiner's glue and tightened with a clamp until completely dry. Then the pairing of the ribs is tightened with screws.
Table legs are recommended to be installed in the spreader so that the table is stationary during operation. and this is very important for the quality of the cut. You will also need a guide board to keep the workpiece in place on the table. It is attached to the tabletop docks in such a way that it can be moved around, for example you can use a small vise to fix it.
Universal walk-behind tractor - a module that we have built, is suitable not only for transport. Its engine is up to 2 hp. with success can work hard in other fields. For example, it will power a circular saw. The power is enough to cut a board up to 50 mm thick and 20 mm chipboard, fibreboard. And you will appreciate the advantage already at the beginning of construction, when garden plot electricity has not yet been supplied.
The basis of the machine is a solid table, connected from wooden bars with a section of 80x60 mm and a length of about 650 mm, as well as boards with a section of 120x40 mm. The entire assembly is carried out on screws, but better - on bolts and nuts with M6 threads. wooden details before assembly, for strength, they are additionally lubricated with glue - carpentry, casein or epoxy.
The tabletop is cut from a whole sheet of plywood 12 ... 15 mm thick or chipboard 20 mm thick. Its dimensions are 1000x550 mm.
The power unit is located under the table and is mounted on a cross-section board with a section of 120x40 mm using a horizontal hinge consisting of two forks pre-bent from steel strips 4 mm thick and 80 mm wide. They are connected to each other using a long bolt with an M8 thread or a threaded stud with nuts and washers. One of the forks is attached to the cross member, the other - to the docking flange of the power unit.
The spindle is a housing with bearings and a shaft. The easiest way for this purpose is to use a node from an old bicycle, on which the pedals and a large sprocket rotate. Cut it carefully with a hacksaw from the frame and disassemble. A bicycle sprocket is not needed - it will have to be replaced with another one - from the D6 or D8 engine A so that it sits tightly on the shaft, on lathe cut out the adapter sleeve. Specify its dimensions locally. Weld the sprocket to the bushing according to the drawing.
It is more difficult to install a circular saw on the spindle. Here it will be necessary to take into account the diameter of the mounting hole of the saw blade and, accordingly, determine the outer diameter of the adapter threaded sleeve. The sleeve is attached to the spindle at two or three welding points through holes drilled in the wall. The saw is finally fixed on the sleeve with a nut with a lock nut.
Weld a plate of steel sheet 4-5 mm thick and attach to the table top with screws.
Install an additional sprocket on the power block shaft, the diameter of which is 2.5 times larger than that installed on the spindle. Make sure that both sprockets are located exactly in the same plane. The chain length is chosen so that the power unit is located horizontally. If it turns out that the horizontal hinge is loose after assembly, secure the power unit at the back with two cables - they will prevent it from moving to the right or left.
The frequency of rotation of the circular saw is regulated by a pedal (see Fig.) Connected by a cable to the throttle valve of the carburetor. The pedal is bent from a steel sheet 2.5 mm thick and is pivotally attached to the table leg on an M10 threaded stud with nuts and washers. The cable sheath is fixed on a stop bent from a steel strip with a section of 30x3 mm. The platform of a pedal is pasted over with corrugated rubber.
We warn you that a fast rotating saw can cause injury if not handled carefully. Therefore, strictly follow the safety measures. The working area must be equipped with a movable casing that covers the saw during operation. The casing is bent from tin or duralumin and mounted on a lever hinged to the side of the table. When sawing a board into slats, feed it into working area follows not by hand, but by a pusher-wooden bar at least 300 mm long.
Working on a machine driven by an internal combustion engine is different from electric ones. This is due to the need to use the throttle control pedal. Therefore, remember, before you feed the workpiece, you should fully gain momentum by pressing the “gas” pedal all the way. And during operation, you will have to constantly correlate the feed force, the spindle speed and the optimal position of the pedal.
It would be nice to equip the machine with a collection of sawdust. Make a box of roofing iron and set it with a slight slope under the disc. Make sure that the carburetor air intake hose is not in
dusty area. Otherwise, the engine will often stop, its motor resource will decrease. And also try to position the machine so that the engine is constantly blown by the wind.
N. Papiny, engineer
Source: Lefty 1991
Circular saw based on a universal walk-behind tractor: 1 - bed leg ( wooden block section 60x80 mm); 2 - a longitudinal element of the base of the bed (a board with a section of 40x120 mm), 3 - a table top (a sheet of plywood 12 - 15 mm thick or a chipboard 20 mm thick (dimensions - 550x1000 mm); 4 - bushing-roller chain drive of the machine spindle; 5 - disk saw; 6 - universal power walk-behind tractor based on a B50 or B-501 engine; 7 - carburetor throttle cable; 8 - pivot pin of the suspension of the power unit (bolt or threaded stud M8 with nuts and washers); 9 - fastening the spindle to the tabletop (M6 screws with nuts and washers); 10 - spindle axis (modified pedal shaft of a bicycle carriage); 11 - nut for fastening a circular saw; 12-washers-gaskets; 13 - spindle mounting bracket (steel strip 4 mm thick); 14 - spindle bearing housing (bicycle carriage housing); 15 - driven spindle sprocket (modified sprocket from the D6 or D8 engine); 16 - latch; 17 - axis of the carburetor throttle drive pedal (M10 steel threaded stud with nuts and washers); 18 - cable stop (steel strip 3 mm thick and 30 mm wide); 14 - pedal return spring; 20 - throttle actuator pedal ("gas" pedal); 21-pad (grooved rubber); 22 - screw; 23, 27 - fork of the hinge of the suspension of the power unit (steel strip with a section of 4x80 mm); 24 - M8 threaded bolts and nuts for fastening the fork to the power unit; 25 - bed cross member (board section 40x120 mm); 26 - screws
A homemade circular saw is a kind of handy tool that can cope with a number of construction tasks in living conditions. In principle, it will not be difficult to make a circular yourself even if you do not have any special skills, the main thing is to have at least a little idea about working with metal. Required material can usually be found in a garage or home workshop, and a steel angle will do here, profile pipe rectangular section and engine. The assembled circular saw can be put on an existing workbench, or, in the absence of such, you will have to build a table for a circular saw with your own hands. As for the motor, you can use the unit from old washer or motoblock, but first things first.
Hand held angle grinder
If there is a “grinder” on the farm, then there is no better device for a hand-held circular saw. Don't know how to make a mini circular saw at home from such a popular tool? Do not despair, because its manufacture only involves providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes two segments in its design metal corner small section, located on both sides of the saw blade. With the help of bolts and nuts, the corners are connected on the front and back sides with a cross ligament, and the technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.
It is necessary to put on a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for the sliding stop, folded in half, is already fixed to it. In principle, a special clamp with a stand can be made as a single unit, but in this case, the thickness of the metal strip will ideally be at least one and a half millimeters. Further, in the gearbox housing of the future circular, you will have to make a couple of holes for the bolts, for which it is disassembled, and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow high-quality cutting, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.
The axial handle, which will be supplied with a circular grinder, is made of metal rod or tubes. The design in shape can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. ends metal part, with which the handle is attached to the gearbox, are provided with holes for fasteners. There is one here important point: the ends must not be riveted to prevent the deflection of the handle during the operation of the hand-assembled circular. It is also necessary to make an adjusting rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet a little and form a hole for the front stop bolt. The uniformity of the gap, as usual, is regulated by washers.
At the other end of the rod, a thread is cut, thanks to which it will connect to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after assembling the structure, the second one. By tightening and lowering the nuts of this fixture for a homemade hand-held circular saw, the depth of cut is adjusted. This is how at home you can convert the grinder into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, by remaking a circular from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.
Miniature Tabletop Circular Machine
The mobility of the element is achieved by sawing a horizontal segment into two uniform parts, which, after installation, are fastened with clamps. A circular saw is fixed to the vertical part of the frame on the clamp. A table from a hand-held circular saw assembly can function as a cutting machine if a standard cutting disc is installed on the grinder. It is worth noting that the through cut here will not exceed 80 mm, and for processing larger lumber, a more serious home-made circular machine will be required, which will be discussed later.
Stationary machine
Circular machine, as close as possible to factory models, requires a competent approach to assembly, therefore, before making a stationary type circular saw, you need to think through everything to the smallest detail. In principle, a desktop mini circular saw differs from a stationary one in the height of the frame, which directly depends on the nature of the work performed and the dimensions of the workpieces that the device will process. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, while a circular saw from a hand-held circular saw can be easily hidden in a barn or pantry, and a carpenter who constantly manipulates lumber will need a stationary home-made circular saw. Below is a diagram that details all the elements and fixtures for a circular saw of this type.
As can be seen from the figure, home-made circulars of this type have a clear design, and drawings similar to the one presented above greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before you make a circular, and also mount circular table with our own hands, we will consider each detail of the unit separately in order to know all the subtleties of its operation and installation.
Circular table
A table for a hand-held circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes remade from an ordinary kitchen table or assembled from bars or metal profiles. Experts strongly recommend covering the table for a circular saw with a sheet of galvanized metal, since without a coating, the base is threatened with abrasion in the center from constant friction of the lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the cut, and the depth of cut will be uneven. The cross ties that reinforce the saw table are best made from a 60 - 80 mm steel angle with the horizontal segment outward in order to simplify the installation of the side limiter. A home-made table on which a circular saw will be installed must be strong and stable, and it must also be securely fixed in a fixed position.
saw blade
The toothed disc should rise above the surface of the circular table by a maximum of a third of its diameter, otherwise it will not saw the wood properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If you need to cut a beam with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, a similar cutter parameter should not exceed 350 mm, however, an engine with a power of 1 kW or more is also required here. For workpieces with a diameter of more than 150 mm, a mini circular made by hand is hardly suitable. On some factory circular machines a riving knife is provided, which is installed behind the disc at a distance of 2 - 3 mm from the saw teeth. It eliminates the jamming moment due to the closing of the parts of the sawn workpiece, therefore it can be very useful in the case when a home-made circular is assembled.
Side stop adjustable
It is possible to put a high-quality emphasis from a steel corner with a section of about 80 mm, which is 3–4 cm longer than the table structure. The flat sides of the corner are bent down so that their width is one and a half cm more than the thickness of the table. After installation, the stop is fixed on homemade table circulars in a predetermined position with the help of bolts. adjustment given element carried out according to the template placed between it and the cutter.
Shaft
The shaft mounted on the circular is the most critical unit, therefore, only a specialist using special equipment should be engaged in its turning and testing as an assembly with the disk. A pipe product with a carelessly fixed circle is excluded immediately, because the slightest errors in the operation of this element will result in major troubles such as equipment breakdown, damage to the workpiece and injury to the operator. The best solution would be to purchase a finished shaft with a seat for the cutter. It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings with a curved inner surface, otherwise the self-made assembly will quickly collapse and the shaft mounted on a homemade circular will become unusable.
Broadcast
In our case ideal option there will be a V-belt transmission, but it is better to refuse a rigid gear mechanism, since such a homemade product does not guarantee safety. If a nail is suddenly caught in the lumber, the motor rotor will provoke the destruction of the disc, which can lead to injury. If the inner diameter of the belt drive pulleys is small, then slippage will be ensured, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. Gear ratio usually chosen based on engine speed, always taking into account the allowable number of revolutions of the disk. How smaller diameter saw blade, the greater the frequency of its rotation, and the cleaner the reworked unit will cut.
Motor
Among homemade devices the most popular is a circular assembled from an engine from washing machine.This choice is explained by the fact that the scheme of its work is best suited for such purposes. Unlike collector units, which are usually supplied with power tools, the engine from the washing machine runs at lower speeds, which means that it shows longer work, has increased efficiency and is not so prone to different kind blockages. You can also use three-phase motor, but then additional costs will be required for the purchase of a starting and working capacitor, therefore it is more economical to manage the device from washing machine. Here, in general, and all the wisdom.
A saw from a walk-behind tractor is a reality that has made it possible to further expand the functionality of this agricultural equipment. Now, having in its arsenal only one walk-behind tractor and various attachments, you can cope with any task in your summer cottage.
So, for example, using a circular saw nozzle for a walk-behind tractor, you can process wooden bars for construction and firewood.
Varieties of circular saws for walk-behind tractor
There are two types of nozzles:
- factory models;
- homemade attachments.
Today, it is quite problematic to find a factory circular prefix for a walk-behind tractor for sale, therefore, most owners of motorized agricultural devices prefer to make such equipment with their own hands.
Advantages of motor-block circular saws
Let's name a few weighty advantages that affect the choice of owners of summer cottages and private houses:
- The ability to perform various carpentry work without access to the mains.
- Mobility of the device - it can be quickly mounted, and just as quickly disassembled, sawing building materials directly near the workpieces.
- Profitability - the owner of the walk-behind tractor makes the most of the unit, without spending on other target equipment, which will require investments.
- Compact dimensions - nozzle, it is always smaller than a full-fledged device, so it does not take up much space during storage.
It is worth paying attention to the performance of the motoblock engine, it will provide required power circular prefix, powered by a walk-behind drive, and not from a conventional electric motor.
It is best to use units with a power of 3, 4 or more horsepower. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that professional circulars are powered by a 3-kilowatt electric motor, and 1 kW is 1.35962 horsepower.
Manual circulars, designed for short sawing of thin boards, have enough power of 1.5-2 kW. Therefore, based on the planned work, we also select a working body with the appropriate characteristics.
Is it possible to make a homemade circular with an engine from a walk-behind tractor
On the Internet, you can find a lot of diagrams and descriptions for creating a circular prefix to a walk-behind tractor on your own. One option is to use a table made of bars. The structure is connected together with bolted connections. AT this case the motor is disconnected from the walk-behind tractor and fixed directly under the tabletop on a transverse board. A specially made hinge will securely fix the power plant in a pre-marked place on the bed.
You will also need a spindle from a bicycle and an asterisk D8 or D6 from the motor. Naturally, you will need a shaft, a sleeve, a metal plate 4-5 mm thick and the circular saw itself.
The scheme is as follows:
There are other options for making attachments on the Internet that use a belt drive and three-strand pulleys - in this case, the engine is not dismantled from the walk-behind tractor.
We offer you to watch a video about the work of a home-made circular powered by a walk-behind tractor:
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