During operation, deep cracks do not form in the glued beam and the entire thickness of the glued beam “works”. Therefore, in terms of thermal insulation, glued laminated timber is significantly superior to concrete and brick, its thermal conductivity is lower.
Layers of glue in glued beams are good heat insulators, and the spiked connection between the beams creates several sealing contours and makes it impossible for cold air to penetrate into the room. In addition, an ordinary beam cracks (bursts) when it dries, these cracks significantly reduce the working thickness of the beam. From all this it can be seen that glued laminated timber is much warmer than usual.
It is believed that the main shrinkage occurs 1 ... 2 seasons. An ordinary beam, when dried, shrinks about 10%. In the third year, shrinkage can be 0.5 ... 1%. This dramatically worsens the quality of construction and thermal insulation of the room. It turns out that in the process of shrinkage it is impossible to install windows and doors, otherwise they will warp. And how to dry the timber without installing windows, doors and heating?
When building a house from glued beams, shrinkage is only 0.4%. Glued laminated timber shrinks mainly during the construction of the wall. One of the most important parameters is wind insulation. Glued laminated timber does not require insulation, sealant, gluing, etc. Our profile, which consists of small grooves, guarantees 100% wind insulation.
How to properly fasten the beam
From time immemorial, strong wooden houses have been erected in Rus'. They built, as they say, “without a single nail”, but soundly and for centuries. And in our time held in high esteem, especially cobbled. The beam fits well into rows and gives slight shrinkage, and the principle of operation “without a single nail” is more relevant here than ever.
How to fasten the beam
Instruction how skre drink bar
1 Only details, not walls, are hammered together with nails, since the nail holds the structure tightly. The connection of the timber in the wall should not, and cannot be, a rigid structure. It provides for a certain mobility, because the tree during the whole life either gains or gives off moisture. In addition, nails rust over time and damage the wood.
2 If you still decide to save time and money and fasten the timber with nails, then at least use special nails without a hat (for example, wire 6-ku) and be sure to melt them. Previously, the upper beam is drilled through with a conventional drill.
Here you need to remember that the miser pays twice: in the bathhouse built on nails, you will continually caulk cracks.
3 Usually the beam is fastened with wooden dowels. Dowels are square bars 18x18 mm. The length varies depending on (no more than 25 cm). With a special drill, make holes with a diameter of 21 mm and drive dowels into them, which should have
Xia in a checkerboard pattern. Drill the beam through.
4 It is good to use round wooden pins with a diameter of up to 3 cm for fastening. The main function of the pins in is to prevent the horizontal movement of the beam relative to each other. Pins are placed one above the other so that 3-4 rows can be fastened at once. When installing dowels, keep in mind that the hole for the dowel must be located strictly vertically, be no smaller in diameter and of sufficient depth. The wooden dowel is quite elastic and does not allow the wood to be crushed in the hole.
5 There is another way - using the spring assembly "Force". By design, it is a screw with a built-in compression spring. Such a system allows you to eliminate the gaps between the parts, pressing the bars against each other with great effort. The "Force" spring unit is mainly used for balanced shrinkage of the crowns of the structure, prevents deformation and cracks. True, this method is quite expensive.
Adviсe
Glued laminated timber and its comparison with other materials
Concrete (monolith)
Reduced humidity in winter. Humidifiers required. Poor energy saving, insulation required. Requires finishing (external and internal). More expensive foundation. Significantly more expensive than glued laminated timber.
Brick Reduced humidity in winter. Humidifiers required.
Poor energy saving, insulation required. Requires interior finishing. More expensive foundation. More expensive than glued beams.
Construction and features of glued laminated timber houses
How to fasten the beam together
For the production of glued laminated timber, a board is used as a material. conifers without defects and flaws. The board is processed under soft conditions up to relative humidity 8 ±2% in drying chambers. Then the boards are planed from 4 sides to the exact dimensions, sorted and glued on a powerful hydraulic press. The number of lamellas can be from 2 to 5, which makes it possible to produce glued beams (synonyms: glued profiled beams, multilayer glued beams) sufficiently strong.
The thickness of the glued beam reaches 200 mm. To glue together parts of glued laminated timber (lamellae), use special adhesives, which are not only environmentally friendly, but also high-strength. These adhesives allow the wood to "breathe". The bonding quality complies with international and Russian standards. When gluing (according to the technology of manufacturing glued beams) into a single beam, the direction of wood fibers and annual rings in the lamellas is placed in opposite directions from each other. This method makes glued laminated timber stronger than regular timber. Glued laminated timber under the influence of moisture does not change shape (it does not "lead"). One of the main points in the manufacture of glued laminated timber is its profiling on special four-sided machines. With this technology for the manufacture of glued laminated timber, the quality depends on the accuracy of the manufacture of the tongue-and-groove joint. Glued laminated timber, after giving it a profile, is cut into the required segments (trimmed to size). Then the glued timber is processed on special cup-cutting machines - the crown cups are “cut” and holes for the dowels are drilled.
An integrated approach to managing the production process determines the high quality of products. Through the use of modern computer technology, all stages of construction from design to manufacturing a set of houses are closely related to each other. The high precision of wood processing is ensured by the use of high-quality equipment, which in the best way affects the quality of the assembly. Glued timber is made from softwood(including larch and cedar).
The thickness of the glued beam depends on climatic conditions the area where your house will be located. The imperviousness of the walls is ensured by the ridge connection in the locks along the profile of the glued beam. The company offers the construction of houses as per standard projects for every taste, as well as for individual orders. Our designers are ready to design "any whim" of the customer, and experienced builders to bring it to life.
The main advantages of houses made of wooden beams
Advantages of building houses from glued beams
Glued laminated timber surpasses all other wooden structures in terms of durability. Houses made of glued laminated timber, compared to other types of houses, have excellent characteristics. Houses made of solid logs with a moisture content of at least 30% form cracks when dried, and the moisture content of glued laminated timber is 8 ... 12%. wooden cottages from glued beams there is no tendency to cracking. Construction period wooden house from glued beams is much less than from solid wood. All parts, including beams and rafters, are factory made with high precision. Due to the high-precision equipment on which the wood is processed, the glued material differs high quality surfaces. Due to the absence of internal stresses, glued wood retains its parameters over time, does not bend, twist, or shrink. The big advantage of glued laminated timber is the absence of the need interior decoration cottage. The absence of finishing costs significantly reduces the cost of building a house from glued laminated timber, by an average of 50 percent or more.
A house made of glued laminated timber practically does not shrink. Glulam is not exposed to any viruses, fungi and bacteria due to optimal humidity. In a glulam house, the air quality is ideal for people prone to allergies, lung and heart disease. In people with hypertension, there are positive results in lowering blood pressure. The resorption of hemorrhages is accelerated, metabolism is normalized, the number of occurrences of migraine and neuroses is reduced. Glulam houses do not require a deep and heavy foundation, as they are lighter than brick and stone houses.
Repair
Environmental friendliness of housing from glued laminated timber
Glued laminated timber is made of wood - natural material. It is warm to the touch, retains comfortable humidity in both winter and summer.
Environmental friendliness is the main advantage of glued beams relative to concrete, foam blocks, bricks. Many argue that wood "breathes". This is not entirely true. In reality, air cannot penetrate from the street into the house and from the house into the street. wood regulates the humidity of the room. wood has antiseptic and antitoxic properties.
Statistics Videos: 0
The most reliable and proven building material for building houses is wood. Most often, of all wooden building materials, timber is used. Made of natural, durable and at the same time soft wood You can build a building of any complexity. But if during construction it is not correct to fasten the timber together, then such a wooden house will not stand idle for a long time and may even pose a great threat to residents, because. it can fall apart at any moment from even a slight mechanical impact on the walls. Therefore, the fastening of a wooden house from a bar and the choice of fasteners for this process must be approached responsibly and seriously.
Features of wooden material - timber
Before starting construction, many are faced with the choice of the main building material of a log or timber. To make the right choice, you need to know some of their features.
The characteristics of logs and beams are equal: they are warm, frost-resistant, can withstand winds, and provide good air exchange in the room. But for laying walls made of logs, you need to have certain skills in working with this material, or it is necessary that on construction site was a professional. If there are none, then the construction of the house will fail.
A beam is a wooden material that has passed through a special machine, which gave it certain form with equal and perfectly flat surfaces. Whereby appearance log house is excellent and without additional finishing works. It is easier to work with a beam, beginners and non-professional builders can cope with the construction of a log house from it. Shrinkage of a house from a bar occurs faster than from a log. Distinctive feature such wooden frame are more blown interventional seams. But you can cope with them by using high-quality insulation materials.
Materials for fastening the beam together
Fasteners for use in wooden housing construction are available at construction markets in a fairly large range. Acquired for fasteners of log crowns most often the following elements:
- Ordinary nails.
But not all of these materials are well suited for wooden houses. Many choose a fastener at random, not even knowing how best to fasten the timber together.
For the manufacture of metal dowels, durable fittings are used. They are intended to ensure good fastening of the crowns of the log house from a bar or logs to each other. They are strong and able to prevent deformation. wooden material. But still, it is not recommended to use metal dowels in the construction of a wooden house.
Metal dowels have a corrugated surface, which can lead to damage to the structure of the wooden material during its movement. Metal and wood are not compatible, they are completely different. The metal dowel, while inside the beam, will soon corrode due to temperature changes, humidity and condensate formed on it. The rust of the pin can cause premature deterioration of the wooden material.
Wooden dowels are made from wood hard rock, mostly from birch. Therefore, they are not inferior in strength to metal fasteners, but at the same time they are better suited to a wooden house. Birch dowels provide uniformity to the walls of the house, prevent the deformation of the timber. They are not afraid of temperature changes, humidity and other adverse factors.
Birch dowels are very durable and available in financial terms. These fasteners can be either round or square. Under the first type of dowels, holes in the timber are easier to prepare.
This fastener is made of high-strength metal, and most importantly, it does not corrode. It consists of a bolt, spring and wood carving. The size of the spring unit reaches an average of 25 cm. The “Sila” spring unit ensures the strength and stability of the entire wooden structure, preventing torsion and deformation of the beam. Also, this fastener provides an additional load to the crowns of the frame, thereby preventing the formation of cracks and gaps during its shrinkage. The load from one spring assembly is about 130 kgf, and about 4 of these elements must be installed on the entire beam.
With the help of nails, you can firmly fasten together many different parts and structures. Some builders use these fasteners to build wooden houses from timber, but this is a big mistake. Nails quickly rust, being inside the timber. Corrosion damages the wood. And the structure of the house itself can suddenly crumble. After all, a rusty nail will not be able to withstand the load that the walls of a house made of timber will constantly provide to it. For the same reason, it is worth refusing to purchase metal staples. If, despite this, it is decided to use nails, then it is better to purchase special wires without a cap, the diameter of which is about 6 mm.
To build a wooden house and fasten the timber together, it is better to use birch dowels or Force spring knots. These fasteners are able to provide a strong and durable fastening of the log crowns. In order to save money, you can fix the upper crowns of the log house with spring knots "Strength". This method also provides additional necessary load to the crowns. The lower bars can also be fixed with dowels, and the weight of the upper crowns and the roof is distributed on them. It is not recommended to use nails and metal dowels for fastening the timber together, especially if there is a desire to build a strong, safe and durable wooden house.
Thematic video:
Conclusion
We hope that in this article we were able to answer the question - what is the best way to fasten the timber together? To answer this question, we have professional assemblers wooden log cabins with many years of experience in the field of massive wooden housing construction.
Where can you buy all these products?
Warehouse - the store of our company is located. Here you can pick up a lot of materials necessary for the quality construction of a wooden log house or bath.
Timber joints in the corners and straight walls of the house require strength and tightness. The humidity of the building material has a huge impact on the tightness of a log house. If you build a house from a bar of natural moisture, during shrinkage and shrinkage, the log house will experience significant internal stresses, which can lead to its deformation.
By using lumber that has been dried to 20%, you can kill several problems at once in the bud - cracks, cracks, heavy draft, etc. Ideally, use profiled or glued beams from kiln-dried lamellas for a log house. The shrinkage of such a log house will be minimal.
The second method to avoid blowing corners is to make these corners with special, complex forms of connections.
The corners must be strong. The log house is affected by forces from possible ground movements, from its own weight and the weight of the roof, roof and snow, as well as pressure from the force of the wind. The corners must withstand all loads, and in addition, withstand deformations from fluctuations in linear dimensions due to rain, snow and changes in the heat and humidity regime.
Corner connection with remainder
Very important advantages of this type of felling:
- Blowing from the street is minimal, even with strong wind and in frost;
- High reliability. Even not fixed with dowels, the beams, connected at the corners by one of the types of cutting with the remainder, do not move even with moderate movements of the base soils under the action of heaving or seismic. lower crowns holds the weight of the top and tightly connect the corners.
The main types of felling with residue
Cutting method with a one-sided locking groove
This method is equally good for both square timber and profiled. One side of the timber is sawn to form a groove perpendicular to the axis of the timber. The thickness of the groove is equal to half the thickness of the beam, the width and length of the groove are the same. The lock is obtained when this groove accommodates ½ of the timber located perpendicular to it. Such a crown is tightly fixed in relation to the underlying crown in one direction. Additional fixation with dowels gives the corner sufficient strength.
Cutting with a double-sided lock groove
This type of felling is a little more complicated - you will have to choose the grooves from both the upper edge of the beam and the bottom. The grooves in this case have the same width as in the one-sided groove method and a depth equal to ¼ of the thickness. Double sided grooving takes twice as long and requires more precision, but gives undeniable advantage- rigid fixation of each pair of bars not in one, but in two directions. That is, there is already spatial rigidity. Now, with any temperature and humidity fluctuations, the shift of bars and crowns relative to each other is practically impossible.
Cutting with a four-sided lock groove
A very complex cutting, the grooves can be both symmetrical and asymmetric, and it is extremely laborious to select such a complex groove manually. Typically, such complex grooves with ideal geometry are made on equipment that produces house kits. Then, at the construction site, these sets are assembled from numbered bars, like Lego constructors.
Complicated and expensive processing, but no practical improvement in the tightness of the corner is observed, although in theory such an angle should become completely ideal.
The main types of felling without residue
An angle without residue saves on lumber. The bar is entirely in the plane of the wall, the ends do not protrude outward. But the overall savings are not observed, since these angles require additional insulation and caulks. In terms of strength, reliability and protection against blowing, these types of felling are also inferior to corners felled with the remainder. Only a warm corner, which is also a root spike, can compete.
Cutting without residue allows you to make the facade of the house more strict geometrically, it is easier to perform exterior finish. The issue of aesthetics is debatable, and more related to style.
Without a trace, corners are cut both from a square bar and from a profiled one.
Butt cutting without residue
The simplest and fast way for the construction of a farm building. No additional processing is required, just lay the bars of the required lengths in a checkerboard pattern. So that the bars in the crowns and the crowns themselves do not move relative to each other, with this cutting method, fasteners are necessarily used - galvanized steel overhead plates, steel brackets or wooden dowels.
Labor costs in this case are minimal, carpentry experience may be completely absent. If you make a log house in this way from dried timber, you can get an acceptable result. From raw lumber, as carpenters say, with any effort, the corner will walk after shrinkage. The corner is deformed, and fluctuations in humidity will contribute to linear fluctuations, as a result, blown gaps will appear.
Butt cutting on dowels
The key can be of different shapes. For a straight key, you will need to choose straight grooves along the ends and side surfaces of adjacent bars. Under the dowel - dovetail it is required to choose a rather complex groove, with broadening from the middle. The key also has complex shape.
The connection with a straight key will prevent the crown bars from moving in the horizontal plane, but not in the vertical one. Vertically, the crowns will be held only by their own weight and the weight of the overlying structures. The dovetail key will securely fix the angle and prevent the bars from moving in both directions. This method of cutting without residue gives a practically windproof corner.
Cutting in half a tree
Also an easy cut. At the ends of the bars, cuts are made for ½ thickness, a spike is obtained that is the same in length and width. Without fixing with dowels, this connection will not be reliable. After shrinkage and settlement of the log house, the corner will most likely be blown through and will require additional insulation. The second caulk of log cabins after exposure and precipitation is always done.
As with butt cutting, you can modify this method by securing the corners with dowels. In this case, the bars will not move.
You can still improve the method of cutting into half a tree, if you join the ends into a paw. The paw has a more complex shape - the cuts are made oblique, wedge-shaped, exactly in size. The result is an increase in the strength of the frame, the beams are fixed relative to each other in the crowns, and the weight of the overlying crowns prevents the displacement of the underlying ones. The corner looks aesthetically pleasing from the inside and outside, the facade of the house is geometric, smooth.
Connection in a warm corner (in the root spike)
It is considered the warmest, windproof connection and at the same time guarantees the fixation of the crowns. The method is not the most difficult:
The ends are cut, leaving spikes, and the length and width of which should be exactly 1/3 of the beam section. A simpler spike has the shape of a rectangle, a more difficult one has a spike with one-sided widening. The grooves of the joined beams are selected according to the size of these spikes, but without an exact fit, since the grooves need to be caulked with moss, linen or jute fiber, hemp or felt. Bars with spikes are upset from above on bars with grooves. Fastening crowns with dowels this method felling is a must.
Fastening the beams with dowels
- The classic wood for dowels is birch, free of defects, knots and slant, and also with a parallel arrangement of fibers relative to the longitudinal axis.
- The optimal length of the dowels is 0.8 of the sum of the heights of the two connected crowns. Sometimes not two, but three beams are connected with one dowel. Dowel diameters from 25 to 35 mm.
- Nagels are installed in the interval up to 1.5 m, and always on both sides of each corner. On the horizontal rows, the dowels are shifted in a checkerboard pattern.
Connections of bars along the length
Long, straight sections of walls can exceed the length of the lumber. The splicing of the timber along the length is done in one plane. The requirements for joints are the same as for corners - strength and tightness.
The easiest way to join a beam along the length is a connection on rectangular dowels. The crowns will be securely fixed in the transverse direction, such a joint will not be blown. The key is cut a little less than the groove to leave gaps for the caulk. The grooves for the dowel are sealed with moss, jute and linen fiber, and other material.
Harder and more efficient way joining the beams with a root spike. Direct splicing is technologically a bit simpler than angular splicing, but it also requires accuracy. The gaps between the groove and the spike should be several mm in order to pave them with a caulk.
The most complex, costly in terms of material and labor, and at the same time the best type of splicing in a straight line in terms of result is docking with an oblique lock. Dimensions must be accurate, fit close to perfect. The lock configuration is not easy. As a result, two beams have two completely overlapped sections in the joint, which gives strength to the joint, and the cunning shape of the oblique lock makes it impossible for a gap to appear even with significant shrinkage.
A myriad of connections can be used to connect wooden parts. The names and classifications of joinery-carpentry joints tend to vary considerably by country, region, and even school of woodworking. The craftsmanship lies in the fact that the precision of execution provides a correctly functioning connection that is able to withstand the loads intended for it.
Initial information
Connection categories
All connections (in carpentry they are called bindings) of wooden parts according to the scope can be divided into three categories (foreign version of the classification):
- box;
- frame (frame);
- for splicing/splicing.
Box connections are used, for example, in the manufacture drawers and arrangement of cabinets, frame are used in window frames and doors, and rallying / splicing serves to obtain parts of an increased size in width / length.
Many joints can be used in different categories, for example, butt joints are used in all three categories.
Material preparation
Even planed lumber may need some preparation.
- Trim the material with a margin in width and thickness for further planing. Don't cut to length yet.
- Choose the best quality layer - the front side. Plane it along the entire length. Check with a straightedge.
After the final alignment, make a mark on the front side with a pencil. - Plane the front - clean - edge. Check with a straightedge, as well as a square against the front side. Smooth out warp by planing. Mark a clean edge.
- Use a thickness gauge to mark the required thickness along all edges of the part contour. Plan up to this risk. Check with a straightedge.
- Repeat the operation for the width.
- Now mark up the length and actual connections. Mark from the front side and a clean edge.
Lumber marking
Be careful when marking lumber. Make sufficient allowances for kerf width, planing thickness and joining.
All readings are taken from the front side and the clean edge, on which put the appropriate marks. In frame and cabinet designs, these marks should face inward to improve manufacturing accuracy. For ease of sorting and assembly, number the parts as they are manufactured on the front side so that, for example, it indicates that side 1 is connected to end 1.
When marking identical parts, carefully align them and make markings on all workpieces at once. This will ensure that the markup is identical. When marking profile elements note that there may be "right" and "left" parts.
Butt joints
These are the simplest of joinery and carpentry joints. They can be included in all three categories of compounds.
Assembly
The butt joint can be reinforced with nails hammered at an angle. Drive the nails in randomly.
Trim the ends of the two pieces evenly and join them. Secure with nails or screws. Before this, glue can be applied to the parts to enhance fixation. Butt joints in frame structures can be reinforced with a steel plate or corrugated key with outer side or a wooden block fixed from the inside.
Nail / dowel connections
Wooden dowels - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to strengthen the connection. These plug-in round spikes increase shear (shear) strength and, with adhesive, hold the assembly in place more securely. Dowel joints can be used as frame joints (furniture), drawer joints (cabinets) or for splicing/joining (panels).
Assembling the dowel joint
1. Carefully cut out all the components to exactly the right dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the face and clean edge of the upright.
2. Mark the center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end must be at least half the thickness of the material. A wide bar may require more than two dowels.
Mark the center lines for the pins on the end of the crossbar and transfer them to the rack using the square.
3. Lay the upright and bar face up. On the square, transfer the center lines to the rack. Number and label all connections if there are more than one pair of uprights and crossbars.
4. Transfer this marking to the clean edge of the post and the ends of the crossbar.
5. From the front side with a thickness gauge, draw a risk in the center of the material, crossing the marking lines. This will mark the centers of the holes for the dowels.
With a thickness gauge, draw a center line, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the dowel holes.
6. An electric drill with a twist drill or hand drill with a spatula drill, drill holes in all parts. The drill must have a center point and cutters. The hole across the fibers should be about 2.5 times the diameter of the dowel, and the hole at the end should be about 3 times the depth. For each hole, make an allowance of 2 mm, at this distance the dowel should not reach the bottom.
7. Remove excess fibers from the top of the holes with a countersink. This will also make it easier to install the dowel and create space for the adhesive to secure the connection.
Nagels
The nagel must have longitudinal groove(now standard pins are made with longitudinal ribs), along which excess glue will be removed when assembling the joint. If the dowel does not have a groove, then cut it flat on one side, which will give the same result. The ends should be chamfered to facilitate assembly and prevent damage to the hole by the dowel. And here, if the dowels do not have a chamfer, make it with a file or grind the edges of their ends.
Use of pins for marking dowels
Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert special dowel pins into the pin holes. Align the crossbar with the markings of the rack and squeeze the parts together. The tips of the teats will make marks on the rack. Drill holes through them. Alternatively, you can make a template out of a block of wood, drill holes in it, fix the template to the part and drill holes for the dowels through the holes in it.
Using a jig for a dowel connection
The metal jig for dowel connections greatly facilitates the marking and drilling of holes for dowels. In box joints, the jig can be used at the ends, but it will not work on the face of wide panels.
conductor for nail joints
1. Mark center lines on the front of the material where the dowel holes are to be. Select a suitable drill guide bushing and insert it into the jig.
2. Align the alignment marks on the side of the jig and secure the slide bearing of the guide bush.
3. Install the jig on the part. Align the center notch with the center line of the dowel hole. Tighten.
4. Install the drilling depth gauge on the drill at the desired location.
Rallying
To obtain a wider wooden part, you can use dowels to connect two parts of the same thickness along the edge. Place two boards with the wide sides together, line up the ends exactly, and clamp the pair in a vise. On a clean edge, draw perpendicular lines indicating the center lines of each dowel. In the middle of the edge of each board, with a thickness gauge, make risks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the dowel holes.
The pin connection is neat and strong.
Flange / mortise connections
A notch, tie-in or groove connection is called a corner or middle connection, when the end of one part is attached to the layer and another part. It is based on a butt joint with an end cut made in the face. It is used in frame (house frames) or box (cabinets) connections.
Types of mortise / mortise connections
The main types of butt joints are the dark/semi-dark T-joint (often this term is replaced by the term "flush/semi-flush"), which looks like a butt joint, but is stronger, corner cut(corner connection) in a quarter and a corner cut in the dark / semi-dark. A corner cut into a rebate and a corner cut into a rebate with darkness / semi-darkness are made in the same way, but the rebate is made deeper - two-thirds of the material is selected.
Making a cut
1. Mark a groove on the face of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue the lines on both edges.
2. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove between the marking lines on the edges. The depth is usually made from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste part of the material.
3. C-clamp fasten the item securely. Saw through the shoulders on the waste side of the marking lines to the desired depth. If the groove is wide, make additional cuts in the waste to make it easier to remove the material with a chisel.
Saw close to the marking line on the return side, making intermediate cuts with a wide groove.
4. Working with a chisel on both sides, remove excess material and check the flatness of the bottom. To level the bottom, you can use a primer.
With a chisel, remove the waste, working from both sides, and level the bottom of the groove.
5. Check the fit, if the piece is too tight it may need to be trimmed. Check for perpendicularity.
6. The notch connection can be strengthened by one of the following methods or a combination of them:
- gluing and clamping until the adhesive sets;
- screwing with screws through the face of the outer part;
- nailing at an angle through the face of the outer part;
- nailing obliquely through the corner.
The notch connection is strong enough
Tongue and groove connections
This is a combination of a quarter cut and a rebate cut. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and the installation of slopes of window openings.
Making a connection
1. Make the ends perpendicular to the longitudinal axes of both parts. On one part, mark the shoulder by measuring the thickness of the material from the end. Continue marking on both edges and front side.
2. Mark the second shoulder from the end, it should be at a distance of one third of the thickness of the material. Continue on both edges.
3. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove (one third of the thickness of the material) on the edges between the shoulder lines.
4. With a hacksaw with a butt, saw through the shoulders to the risks of the thicknesser. Remove waste with a chisel and check for evenness.
5. Using a thickness gauge with the same setting, mark a line on the back and on the edges of the second part.
Adviсe:
- Tongue and groove type connections can be easily made with a router and a suitable guiding device - either for the groove only or for both the groove and rebate. See p. 35.
- If the comb is too tight in the groove, trim the front (smooth) side of the comb or sand with sandpaper.
6. From the front side with a thickness gauge, make markings on the edges towards the end and on the end itself. Saw along the lines of the thickness gauge with a hacksaw with a butt. Do not cut too deep as this will weaken the connection.
7. Working with a chisel from the end, remove the waste. Check fit and adjust if necessary.
Half tree connections
Half-timber connections refer to frame connections, which are used to connect parts in layers or along an edge. The connection is made by taking the same amount of material from each part so that they are joined flush with each other.
Types of joins in half-tree
There are six main types of connections in the half-tree: transverse, angular, flush, angular mustache, dovetail and splicing.
Making a half-tree gusset
1. Align the ends of both parts. On the top side of one of the parts, draw a line perpendicular to the edges, stepping back from the end to the width of the second part. Repeat on the underside of the second piece.
2. Set the thicknesser at half the thickness of the parts and draw a line on the ends and edges of both parts. Mark the waste on the top side of one and the bottom side of the other part.
3. Clamp the part in a vise at an angle of 45° (face vertically). Carefully cut along the grain close to the thicknesser line on the back side until the saw is diagonal. Flip the piece over and continue sawing gently, gradually raising the saw handle until the saw lines up with the shoulder line on both edges.
4. Remove the part from the vise and place it on the face. Press it firmly against the hutch and clamp it with a clamp.
5. Saw through the shoulder to the previous cut and remove the waste. Align all irregularities in the sample with a chisel. Check the accuracy of the cut.
6. Repeat the process on the second part.
7. Check the fit of the parts and, if necessary, level with a chisel. The connection must be rectangular, flush, without gaps and backlashes.
8. The connection can be strengthened with nails, screws, glue.
Corner joints on the mustache
Corner joints on the mustache are made using the bevel of the ends and hide the end grain, and also aesthetically correspond more to the angular rotation of the decorative overlay.
Types of corner connections on the mustache
To perform bevel ends in corner connection the angle at which the parts meet is divided in half. In a traditional joint, this angle is 90°, so each end is cut at 45°, but the angle can be either obtuse or sharp. In uneven corner joints, parts with different widths are connected to the mustache.
Making a corner connection
1. Mark the length of the parts, bearing in mind that it should be measured along long side, since the bevel will reduce the length inside the corner.
2. Having decided on the length, mark the line at 45° - on the edge or on the face, depending on where the bevel will be cut.
3. With a combination square, transfer the markup to all sides of the part.
4. When hand cutting, use a miter box and a backed hacksaw or hand miter saw. Press the part firmly against the back of the miter box - if it moves, the bevel will turn out uneven and the joint will not fit well. If you are sawing freehand, be careful not to deviate from the marking lines on all sides of the part. A miter saw, if you have one, will make a very neat bevel.
5. Place the two pieces together and check the fit. You can correct it by trimming the surface of the bevel with a planer. Firmly fix the part and work with a sharp planer, setting a small overhang of the knife.
6. The connection should be knocked down with nails through both parts. To do this, first lay the parts on the face and drive nails into the outer side of the bevel so that their tips slightly show out of the bevels.
Start nails in both parts so that the tips protrude slightly from the surface of the bevel.
7. Apply glue and squeeze the joint tightly so that one part protrudes slightly - overlaps the other. First, drive nails into the protruding part. Under hammer blows when driving nails, the part will move slightly. Surfaces must be level. Nail the other side of the connection and sink the nail heads. Check squareness.
Drive the nails into the protruding piece first, and the impact of the hammer will move the joint into position.
8. If there is a small gap due to unevenness, smooth the connection on both sides with a round screwdriver rod. This will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, then you will either have to redo the connection, or close the gap with putty.
9. To reinforce the corner joint on the mustache, you can glue a wooden block inside the corner if it is not visible. If appearance is important, then the connection can be made on a plug-in spike or secured with veneer dowels. Pins or lamellas (standard flat studs) can be used inside the flat joints.
Splicing on a mustache and connection with cutting
Splicing on a mustache connects the ends of parts located on the same straight line, and a connection with a cut is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.
Mustache splicing
When splicing with a mustache, the parts are connected by the same bevels at the ends in such a way that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.
Cutting connection
Connection with cutting (cutting, fitting) is used when it is necessary to connect two parts with a profile in the corner, for example, two skirting boards or cornices. If the part moves during its fastening, then the gap will be less noticeable than with a corner joint.
1. Fix the first skirting board in place. Move the second plinth close to it, located along the wall.
Fasten the first skirting board in place and press the second skirting board against it, aligning it with the wall.
2. Swipe along the profiled surface of the fixed plinth with a small wooden block with a pencil pressed against it. The pencil will leave a marking line on the plinth to be marked.
With a bar with a pencil pressed against it, attached with a tip to the second plinth, draw along the relief of the first plinth, and the pencil will mark the line of the cut.
3. Cut along the marking line. Check fit and adjust if necessary.
Complex profiles
Lay the first plinth in place and, placing the second plinth in the miter box, make a bevel on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the desired shape. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.
Eyelet connections
Eyelet connections are used when it is required to join intersecting parts located "on the edge", either in a corner or in the middle (for example, the corner of a window frame or where a table leg meets a crossbar).
Eyelet connection types
The most common types of eye connections are angle and tee (T-shaped). For strength, the connection must be glued, but you can strengthen it with a dowel.
Making an eyelet connection
1. Mark out in the same way as for but divide the thickness of the material by three to determine one third. Mark the waste on both parts. On one part, you will need to choose the middle. This groove is called an eyelet. On the second part, both side parts of the material are removed, and the remaining middle part is called a spike.
2. Saw along the fibers to the line of the shoulders along the marking lines on the side of the waste. Cut out the shoulders with a hacksaw with a butt, and you get a spike.
3. Working on both sides, select the material from the eyelet with a chisel/grooving chisel or jigsaw.
4. Check the fit and fine-tune with a chisel if necessary. Apply adhesive to the joint surfaces. Check squareness. Use a C-clamp to clamp the joint while the adhesive cures.
Spike-to-socket connection
Spike-to-socket connections, or just spike connections, are used when two parts are connected at an angle or at an intersection. It is probably the strongest of all frame joints in carpentry and is used in the manufacture of doors, window frames and furniture.
Types of spike-to-socket connections
The two main types of stud joints are the usual stud-in-socket connection and the stepped stud-in-socket connection (semi-dark). The spike and socket are approximately two-thirds of the width of the material. The expansion of the nest is made on one side of the groove (semi-darkness), and a spike step is inserted into it from its corresponding side. Semi-darkness helps to prevent the thorn from turning out of the nest.
Standard spike-to-socket connection
1. Determine the connection position on both pieces and mark on all sides of the material. The markup shows the width of the intersecting part. The spike will be at the end of the crossbar, and the socket will go through the post. The spike should have a small allowance in length for further stripping of the connection.
2. Pick up a chisel as close as possible in size to a third of the thickness of the material. Set the thickness gauge to the size of the chisel and mark the nest in the middle of the rack between the previously marked marking lines. Work from the front. If desired, you can set the thickness solution to a third of the thickness of the material and work with it on both sides.
3. In the same way, mark the spike on the butt and both sides to mark the shoulders on the crossbar.
4. Clamp a piece of wood secondary support in a vise high enough to attach the edge-on stand to it. Fasten the post to the support by placing the clamp next to the marking of the nest.
5. Cut out the nest with a chisel, making an inward allowance of about 3 mm from each of its ends so as not to damage the edges when sampling waste. Hold the chisel straight and parallel
its edges are the plane of the rack. Make the first cut strictly vertically, placing the sharpening bevel towards the middle of the socket. Repeat from the other end.
6. Make a few intermediate cuts, holding the chisel at a slight angle and bevel down. Select the waste by using the chisel as a lever. Going deeper by 5 mm, make more cuts and select a waste. Continue until about half the thickness. Flip the part over and work the same way on the other side.
7. After removing the main part of the waste, clean the nest and cut off the allowance left earlier to the marking lines on each side.
8. Cut the spike along the fibers, leading a hacksaw with a butt along the marking line from the side of the waste, and cut out the shoulders.
9. Check fit and adjust if necessary. The shoulders of the cleat must fit snugly against the post, and the joint must be perpendicular and free from play.
10. Wedges can be inserted on both sides of the spike to secure. A gap for this is made in the nest. Working with a chisel from the outside of the nest, widen about two thirds of the depth with a 1:8 slope. Wedges are made with the same slope.
11. Apply glue and press firmly. Check squareness. Apply glue to the wedges and drive them into place. Saw off the tenon allowance and remove excess glue.
Other spike connections
Stud joints for window frames and doors are somewhat different from half-dark stud joints, although the technique is the same. Inside there is a fold and / or an overlay for glass or a panel (panel). When making a connection with a spike into a socket on a part with a seam, make the plane of the spike in line with the edge of the seam. One of the shoulders of the crossbar is made longer (to the depth of the fold), and the second is shorter so as not to block the fold.
Studded joints for parts with overlays have a cut-off shoulder to match the profile of the overlay. Alternatively, you can remove the trim from the edge of the socket and make a bevel or cut to match the counterpart.
Other types of spike-to-socket connections:
- Side spike - in the manufacture of doors.
- A hidden beveled spike in semi-darkness (with a beveled step) - to hide the spike.
- Spike in the dark (steps of the stud on its two sides) - for relatively wide details, such as the lower trim (bar) of the door.
All these connections can be through, or they can be deaf, when the end of the spike is not visible from the back of the rack. They can be reinforced with wedges or dowels.
Rallying
Wide, high-quality wood is becoming increasingly difficult to find and very expensive. Moreover, such wide boards are subject to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes it difficult to work with them. To connect narrow boards along the edge into wide panels for worktops or workbench covers, rallying is used.
Preparation
Before starting the actual rallying, you must do the following:
- If possible, select radial sawn boards. They are less susceptible to shrinkage than tangential sawn timber. If boards of tangential sawing are used, then lay their sound side alternately in one and the other side.
- Try not to bundle materials with different ways sawing into one panel.
- In no case do not rally the boards from different breeds wood if not dried properly. They will shrink and crack.
- If possible, arrange the boards with the fibers in one direction.
- Be sure to cut the material to size before stapling.
- Use only good quality glue.
- If the wood will be polished, adjust the texture or color.
Rallying for a smooth fugue
1. Lay all boards face up. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the edges with a continuous pencil line drawn at an angle along the joints.
2. Plan straight edges and check the fit to the corresponding adjacent boards. Align the ends or pencil lines each time.
3. Make sure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is flat. If you squeeze the gap with a clamp or putty it, the connection will subsequently crack.
4. When planing short pieces, clamp the two right sides together in a vise and plan both edges at the same time. It is not necessary to maintain the squareness of the edges, since when docking they will mutually compensate for their possible inclination.
5. Prepare as for a butt joint and apply adhesive. Squeeze with lapping to connect the two surfaces, squeezing out excess glue and helping the surfaces to “stick” to each other.
Other payment methods
Other fusion joints with different amplifications are prepared in the same way. These include:
- with pins (dowels);
- in a groove and a comb;
- in a quarter.
Bonding and clamping
Gluing and fixing glued parts is an important part of woodworking, without which many products will lose strength.
Adhesives
The adhesive reinforces the connection, holding the parts together so that they cannot be easily pulled apart. Be sure to wear protective gloves when handling adhesives and follow the safety instructions on the packaging. Clean the product of excess glue before it sets, as it can dull the planer knife and clog the abrasive of the skin.
PVA (polyvinyl acetate)
PVA glue is a universal glue for wood. When still wet, it can be wiped off with a cloth dampened with water. It perfectly sticks together loose surfaces, does not require long-term fixation for setting and sets in about an hour. PVA gives a fairly strong bond and sticks to almost any porous surface. Gives a permanent bond, but is not heat and moisture resistant. Apply with a brush, and on large surfaces, dilute with water and apply paint roller. Since PVA glue has a water base, it shrinks when setting.
contact adhesive
Contact adhesive sticks together immediately after application and connection of parts. Apply it to both surfaces and when the glue is dry to the touch, join them. It is used for laminate (laminate) or veneer to chipboard. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvent. Contact adhesive is flammable. Work with it in a well ventilated area to reduce the concentration of fumes. Not recommended for outdoor use, as it is not moisture and heat resistant.
Epoxy adhesive
Epoxy is the strongest adhesive used in woodworking and the most expensive. It is a two-component resin-based adhesive that does not shrink on setting and softens when heated and does not creep under load. Water-resistant and bonds almost all materials, both porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics, such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass (organic glass). Suitable for outdoor work. In the uncured form, it can be removed with a solvent.
hot glue
Hot melt adhesive bonds almost everything, including many plastics. Usually sold in the form of glue sticks that are inserted into a special electric glue gun for gluing. Apply glue, join surfaces and squeeze for 30 seconds. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvents.
Clips for fixation
Clamps come in a variety of designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but usually only a couple of varieties are needed. Be sure to place a piece of wood waste between the clamp and the product to avoid denting from applied pressure.
Gluing and fixing technique
Before gluing, be sure to assemble the product “dry” - without glue. Lock if necessary to check connections and dimensions. If everything is fine, disassemble the product, placing the parts in a convenient order. Mark the areas to be glued and prepare the clamps with the jaws/stops set apart to the desired distance.
Frame assembly
Spread the adhesive evenly with a brush on all surfaces to be glued and quickly assemble the product. Remove excess adhesive and secure assembly with clips. Compress the connections with even pressure. The clamps must be perpendicular and parallel to the surfaces of the product.
Position the clamps as close as possible to the connection. Check the parallelism of the crossbars and align if necessary. Measure the diagonals - if they are the same, then the rectangularity of the product is maintained. If not, then a slight but sharp blow to one end of the rack can even out the shape. Adjust clamps if necessary.
If the frame does not lie flat on flat surface, then tap the protruding areas with a mallet through a block of wood as a spacer. If that doesn't work, you may need to loosen the clamps or clamp the wood block across the frame.
The growing interest in wooden housing construction in our country has given rise to the need to inform the population about the methods and techniques used in the construction of wooden structures. Many are interested in how to fasten the beam to each other, how to mount it to the wall, and what are the advantages of certain technologies and materials.
We will try to answer these questions.
The reliability of a wooden house or a bath from a bar depends on how to fasten the bar to the bar.
Beam connections
First of all, it should be said that the traditions of building with wood throughout the world are incredibly rich and diverse, which is an obvious consequence of the vast experience accumulated by mankind in this branch of craft. With the development of wooden construction, a huge number of craftsmen, schools, traditions and ways of processing details appeared, so there is simply an unimaginable variety of approaches to working with wood.
Moreover, each master makes his own adjustments and improvements, improving and complicating the generally accepted methods of pairings, fastenings and locks. It is impossible to consider all these techniques within the framework of one article, therefore we will limit ourselves only to the main and relevant methods of fixing parts in our time in the construction of wooden walls.
So, the joints are different in the spatial arrangement of parts relative to each other:
- Crowned. These are interfaces between parts located in adjacent layers or crowns of the wall (top or bottom), which prevent the displacement of logs in a horizontal plane, their rotation and movement under the action of gravity of the upper layers;
- End longitudinal. They are used when increasing the length of a log within one crown and prevent the displacement of parts relative to the longitudinal axis, as well as an increase in the gap between them;
- End corner joints. Serve for fastening logs when forming corners between walls. They prevent displacement of logs and walls relative to each other, as well as rotations and changes in the degree of the angle set in the project. They prevent the expansion of gaps between parts in the corners of the building, the occurrence of drafts and cold bridges;
- T-joints. They are encountered when joining internal walls and partitions with outer walls boxes at home or among themselves. Provides a secure, rigid mount inner wall and prevent its displacement and undocking;
- Various interfaces between wooden and stone structures, which show how to attach the beam to the wall.
Important!
When considering certain methods of fixation, one should take into account the capabilities of a modern tool and the level of your skill when working with it, as well as the expediency and laboriousness of each method.
This is especially important if you intend to work with your own hands.
In each of the listed types of fixings of wooden parts among themselves, there are many ways of fastening and various techniques execution of locks and bowls, so they should be considered in more detail.
Crown connections
A crown connection is a fastening between parts along their longitudinal horizontal plane, with which they lie on top of each other during the construction of walls. This fastening should keep the parts from moving along this plane, rotations and falls under the action of gravity and internal stresses arising in the structure.
To implement the crown method, the following fastening techniques are used:
- With the help of metal pins and nails;
- With the help of self-tapping screws;
- With staples;
- With the help of wooden dowels;
- With the help of plug-in spikes and dowels;
- With the help of special milled locks (in profiled wood).
Using metal means fasteners, it should be remembered that increased metal corrosion occurs at the points of contact between wood and steel, which leads to premature damage to nails or pins, as well as to damage to wood at the points of contact. It is the easiest, fastest, cheapest and most reliable way fixing wooden parts.
Most often, metal pins 6 mm thick or special nails without a hat are used. The main load will be applied at an angle to the axis of the fastener, so the presence of a cap is not necessary, especially since it will interfere with the installation of the upper log.
Before mounting the mount, the log is drilled to a depth slightly greater than the depth of the pin or nail. Sometimes parts are drilled through, but these are already insignificant subtleties, the main task is to fix the product in a horizontal plane.
Staples and self-tapping screws can be considered as auxiliary or temporary means of fixing wall elements, as they are short-lived and unreliable. In addition, staples spoil the appearance of the structure.
Go ahead. Wooden dowels are the most common and proven method. Everything is simple here: instead of a metal pin or nail, we use a wooden peg of a round, polyhedral or square section (usually round), which is hammered into a pre-prepared hole in the log, and the next part is placed on the protruding part.
I must say that the method is quite simple and ingenuous, but at the same time very reliable, strong and durable. For the manufacture of durable wood is used: oak, beech, ash.
Important!
Nagel should consist of durable wood, have a lower humidity than the parts of the house, as well as their own fibers perpendicular to the fibers of the timber.
If you are working on your own and do not have impressive experience in carpentry, this method can be considered a good compromise between complexity, laboriousness and reliability of fastening. Moreover, nagel is easy to find and buy in hardware store or receive complete with material.
Also, for crown nodes, plug-in spikes and dowels are used, which are inserted into specially prepared grooves located along the horizontal surfaces of the logs. Today, connections are more common with the help of a tongue and groove, machined in the product at the factory during profiling. This is typical for glued beams and kits for building wooden houses, since the presence of such a lock greatly simplifies and speeds up the assembly of a log house.
End longitudinal nodes
If you do not know how to fasten the beam together with a longitudinal build-up, we present to your attention such a method as a cut. Also, this method is called a direct or oblique lock, pairing “in the paw”, “in the floor of the tree”, etc.
In addition, there are such ways:
- Fastening with a longitudinal spike on the dowels;
- Fixation with a longitudinal root spike;
- Combined nodes.
Important!
In the case of straight and oblique locks, the parts must be additionally fastened wooden dowels at the points of contact between surfaces.
To do this, two holes are made in the middle of the castle and pegs are inserted into them.
When working with glued profiled timber, longitudinal extension is not required, since the parts are selected for a specific project and have the required length. Despite the fact that the price of this material is high, a sufficient number of such advantages makes it very popular.
Corner joints
Corners are the most critical parts of the construction of a wooden house. Therefore, special attention is paid to fasteners.
There are many ways to implement a mate such as an angle:
- Residual end-to-end with a direct lock or "to the floor of a tree";
- Residual with the help of an oblique lock or "in the paw";
- Butt fastening on the root spike;
- Butt fixing on the insert key;
- The bowls with the remainder are one-sided, two-sided and four-sided.
Important!
Butt fastening is practiced with nails or plates, but we do not recommend this method due to its unreliability and fragility.
The most common and reliable method of butt fastening is the use of a root tenon. This is the usual straight or trapezoidal spike and groove with which the parts are connected.
The methods on the tongue and dowels, in general, do not differ much. The “to the paw” and “to the floor of the tree” methods are also similar to each other in terms of characteristics, the “to the paw” connection is somewhat more reliable.
When working with profiled timber, mates are more common with the help of special bowls, or “with the remainder”. To do this, a special seat is cut out in the product at the end, into which the next part is inserted. The bowl can be one-, two- or four-sided.
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