A greenhouse is a simple structure designed for growing seedlings, which everyone can equip. What material and how to make it correctly, where to install it and how to heat it, are far from idle questions. Let's discuss them today.
What is the difference between greenhouses and greenhouses, we have already found out; the answer to this question can be found. Let me briefly remind you: a greenhouse is a small unheated structure that is used to grow seedlings and various vegetables. Unlike a greenhouse, which can reach a height of 3 m or more, in a greenhouse this parameter does not exceed 1.5 m. In addition, greenhouses are often equipped with artificial heating, and greenhouses are heated by sunlight and heat released during the oxidation of biofuels.
Sometimes tunnel shelters are singled out as a separate category of structures (as in the photo above), arguing that it is wrong to call them greenhouses. But we will not complicate the classification, and we will consider them as one of the varieties of greenhouses.
What to build a greenhouse from
Another difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse is the ease of manufacture. - the matter is quite troublesome, it requires not only ingenuity, but also certain skills, and financial costs. But it is not difficult to equip a greenhouse even alone, using affordable and inexpensive materials for this.As a cover for a greenhouse, as a rule, polyethylene film (plain or reinforced) or non-woven (lutrasil, spunbond) is used. Less commonly used cellular polycarbonate; in greenhouses made of window frames, glass is usually installed.
The base of the greenhouse (frame) can be various shapes: arched, triangular, "house" (like a miniature greenhouse) and so on. Polypropylene pipes, metal and fiberglass reinforcement, wooden bars, window frames. Greenhouses are often stationary, but can also be installed as a temporary shelter for plants. Let's see how this looks in practice.
Simple arched greenhouse (tunnel shelter)
This building is probably familiar to every summer resident.
For arranging the simplest greenhouse, ready-made arcs made of bent polypropylene pipe, and an ordinary polyethylene film stretched over them. The film, so that it is not torn off by the wind, must be pressed to the ground with bricks on both sides.
The bases of the arcs can be attached to wooden frame Or just stick it in the ground. The optimal distance between the arcs is 50 cm.
To give the structure greater rigidity, horizontal rails are used attached to the arcs, they do not allow them to deform and move. Sometimes additional vertical supports are installed under the first and last arc, then the greenhouse keeps its shape perfectly all season. However, as you can clearly see in the photo above, you can successfully do without such additions.
Express greenhouse made of wooden gratings
If the construction of arcs and film seems too flimsy to you, you can use the experience described here in this publication:. A greenhouse for seedlings from wooden lattices is assembled as quickly as from arcs, but the structure is more rigid and stable.
A greenhouse made of wooden gratings is very easy to assemble. Photo by
The disadvantage of this design is that its height is quite small - it is only suitable for obtaining early greenery and seedlings.
Stationary wooden greenhouse
Even more durable, stable and reliable will be a stationary greenhouse, assembled from wooden blocks and boards, for example this one.
To build it, you will need minimal skills: any summer resident who is at least a little familiar with a saw and a hammer will master such a construction :) The shape and size of such a greenhouse are arbitrary - it all depends on the availability of space, materials, your building skills and the crops that are supposed to be in the greenhouse grow. An interesting option such a structure is presented here in this video:
Interesting mini-greenhouse idea, right?
Greenhouse with metal frame
If you want to build a greenhouse "for centuries", make a frame from steel pipes or corner. It can be welded (this is reliable, but it will not be possible to disassemble such a structure), but it can also be made collapsible.
Such a frame can be covered not only with a film, but also with cellular polycarbonate. A greenhouse made in this way is good for everyone: it can be quickly assembled and disassembled, it is easy to rearrange to another place in the garden, it does not take up much space during storage.
You can find a large ready-made greenhouses and accessories in our catalog, which contains offers large online stores seeds and planting material. .
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The following options are not suitable for everyone, but I still decided to talk about them.
Greenhouse from old window frames
I propose to talk in more detail about how to build a greenhouse from frames. And for inspiration - here is such a wonderful photo :)
The design of this greenhouse is clear and without descriptions. We will build something more complicated with you - our greenhouse is suitable not only for seedlings, but also for growing tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers.
We will need:
- several window frames;
- a couple of long boards and not too thick logs or timber;
- old brick - for the foundation;
- self-tapping screws - for connecting frames to each other.
- length: optimal length there is no greenhouse from window frames - it will depend on the size and number of these same frames. True, it does not make sense to arrange a greenhouse that is too long, since it is unlikely to be convenient to use;
- width and height: these parameters, as you already understood, will also depend on which frame size is used. Make sure they are the same size before starting assembly.
- We adjust the boards and beams to the desired size, coat them with working off (used automobile oil) or bituminous mastic.
- We lay out bricks along the perimeter of the future greenhouse, put a beam directly on them.
- From the inside, to the beam on the screws, we vertically fasten the boards; the distance between them should be slightly less than the width of the frames.
- Above (by outside), to vertically fixed boards, we fasten more boards in such a way that the upper edge of the horizontally located board completely coincides with the ends of the vertical supports. Then we attach the rafters to the ends of the boards with a “house” (this shape of the roof is needed so that water flows normally from the greenhouse).
- On the assembled frame from timber and boards with the same self-tapping screws we fasten window frames.
Place for a greenhouse
It is desirable to place a greenhouse on the site from east to west - only in this position will the shadows from the supports be minimized, and the rays of the sun will be able to illuminate the plants at an optimal angle.
At the same time, the place where it is planned to install a greenhouse should be fairly flat, not blown by the winds, well lit.
Greenhouse heating
Ideally, a constant temperature should be maintained inside the greenhouse. You can heat a greenhouse with:- electricity: for this, heating wires are used, which are laid with a snake on the bottom of the greenhouse (previously it is covered with a layer of gravel 2 cm thick, on it - 3 cm of washed sand). From above, the wire is again covered with washed sand (a layer of 5 cm), and its ends are connected to a 220 V network. To protect the wire from accidental mechanical damage, it is necessary to lay a thin iron sheet on top of the sand, and then pour nutrient soil mixture on it. For me, to be honest, this method of heating greenhouses is not very cost-effective and quite exotic, but it's up to you;
- solar heating: with the simplest, most common and cheap way:) Advice: in order for the sun to heat the greenhouse well, try to always keep the glass or film in it clean;
- biofuels: it is the biological method of heating a greenhouse that is considered the most effective, while it is affordable and economical - after all, heat is released during the decomposition of ordinary manure, and it will not be difficult to fill a greenhouse with it.
The use of biofuels in the greenhouse
The side earthen walls of the greenhouse must be lined with insulating material (for example, foam), and on the bottom, before laying manure, lay a dense layer of straw, leaves or peat chips. The more leaves used (as a percentage), the lower the temperature inside the greenhouse will be. We make the stuffing itself, alternating layers of manure and leaves (a simple manipulation will help to keep the heat released during fermentation for as long as possible).When packing, remember that the substrate settles over time, so the layer must be high enough. And one more thing: for stuffing, you can use only good quality leaves - not rotted. A layer of soil is poured into the greenhouse directly on the organic matter.
Using biofuel in a greenhouse, it is worth considering that manure is different and, accordingly, the methods of its laying differ:
- horse dung - best option biofuels used to heat greenhouses. Already a week after its laying, the temperature inside the greenhouse rises to +50 ... + 60 ° С. Moreover, it lasts for about 1.5-2 months, and then drops to + 20 ° C. Due to the allocation of such a large number heat, it is most advisable to use horse manure in early greenhouses - for seedlings;
- cow dung, of course, is slightly inferior to horse, because as a result of its decomposition, the temperature in the greenhouse only reaches +40 ... + 50 ° C, but it is also considered an excellent biofuel for heating a greenhouse. It “burns”, that is, it emits heat, for about two weeks, after which the temperature inside the greenhouse drops to + 20 ° C;
- pig manure in the process of decomposition, it releases even less heat than cow's - about +40 ... + 45 ° С, although the temperature in the greenhouse also lasts about 2 weeks;
Even having small plot land, it is difficult to do without a greenhouse. Grow seedlings, get early harvest, cover them from possible frost, from heat, make plants bloom earlier - all this can be done with this device. Moreover, it is not difficult to make a greenhouse with your own hands. There are quite simple designs, there are more complex ones, but the manufacture of any of them does not require special education.
The frame for a greenhouse can be made of wood (boards), metal (corner, profile pipe or fittings) or PVC pipes (round or square). Cover the greenhouse with the same materials as : film, spunbond (also called agrofibre or non-woven covering material), polycarbonate and glass. Since the size of greenhouses is smaller (plants in greenhouses are served outside), the requirements for them are not so strict: even strong wind they are not afraid.
Greenhouse dimensions
Since plants are served outside in a greenhouse, its width is chosen so that it is comfortable for you to process plants planted closer to the middle. Determine this empirically: sit down, and try to reach out to some area with your hand. You measure the distance. Get the width of the greenhouse with a one-sided approach. This is if the greenhouse is located in such a way that it cannot be approached from the second side (near the wall, for example). If you can approach from two sides, this result is doubled.
The distance for each person is different: height and physical condition affect. Do not chase economy by making it wider than necessary. You will have to spend a lot of time on weeding, loosening, fertilizing, and other work. A couple of hours in an uncomfortable position, and no strength remains. Therefore, it is better to make the greenhouse a little narrower, but to make it convenient to work: while enjoying work, you spend less effort.
And the length of the greenhouse is chosen based on the layout of the site. She is arbitrary.
A simple greenhouse made of arcs under a film or spunbond
This greenhouse is made from several boards knocked down to the required dimensions, PVC pipe arcs, which are attached to a wooden base. The tops of these arcs are connected at the top with a beam or the same pipe. If it is a bar, it must be well processed, rounding the edges so that the film does not tear.
How to fix arcs
About how to fix the arcs of PVC pipes on the frame of the greenhouse. Fasten most often using a metal perforated tape. They take a small piece of it 5-6 centimeters, self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. And fixed on both sides. For reliability it is possible twice.
In exactly the same way, you can fix them from the inside, so that they hold tight, add bars.
Another option: drive in pieces of reinforcement near the frame, and put pipes on them and only then fix them with clamps to the frame boards. This option is more reliable.
How to attach film
You can attach the film to PVC pipes with double-sided tape. But only if the film was used inexpensive polyethylene: it is impossible to tear it off without damaging it, and polyethylene lasts no more than a year. So for a seasonal greenhouse, this option is from the category of "cheap and cheerful." The second way is special clips for fixing films and everything that can replace them - a piece of an old hose cut lengthwise, a pipe clamp that is used for installing pipelines, stationery binders, etc.
It also makes sense to fix the bar on both sides along the edges of the film. To do this, the film is cut off more than necessary in length, a bar is wrapped in excess and the film is fixed on it. Now you have a piece of film, on the short sides of which bars are attached. Leave one on one side, throw the other on the other. Now you do not need to press the film to the ground with stones: a bar holds it well. It is also convenient to open the greenhouse for ventilation with it, they wound the film, put it upstairs.
You can use small nails to fasten the film, but put washers under the caps. Faster work with a construction stapler with staples. So that the film does not tear at the attachment points, it is laid with something. It is possible - a dense braid or just a strip of fabric, and fasteners are already hammered into it.
More powerful option
If there is a need to make a greenhouse with PVC arcs more reliable, they nail to the base of the boards in the center of the short side wooden racks. A board is attached to them on the edge, in which holes are pre-drilled with a diameter larger than outside diameter pipes.
During installation, the pipe is threaded through the hole. You can fix it on the sides as suggested above, or do it differently: pre-install the studs in the bars, and put the pipe on them.
The simplest greenhouse
What are good pvc pipes, so it's the fact that they are easy to bend. Also, they weigh little. Perfect option for lung portable greenhouse, especially if you combine it with spunbond. This material can be sewn. Take a piece with a density of 30 kg / m2, in increments of 50 -60 cm, make drawstrings in it. For a drawstring, stitch across a strip of the same material about 10 cm wide (it is stitched on both sides). Inside, insert the pipes cut into the desired sections.
Now all this can be installed on the bed: stick the pegs in two rows on one and the other side of the bed, put a pipe on them. Immediately you get a ready-made greenhouse. And what else is convenient: you open and close the plants simply by collecting or straightening the spunbond on an arc. This is a very convenient temporary greenhouse: as soon as it is not needed, it can be removed and folded in a couple of minutes.
Greenhouse - it couldn't be easier
This greenhouse is good for seedlings, but you can do it for pepper, eggplant. A stand is nailed in the middle of the base. To it are two inclined boards. The cross section is a triangle. If you need a long greenhouse, about every meter install the same design. All tops are connected with a long bar or pipe. Simple and comfortable design this greenhouse.
Cucumbers are grown with it only until they begin to curl. Under the cucumbers, the covering material is removed, racks are nailed (screwed) to the sidewalls, between which the twine is pulled.
Greenhouse "Khlebnitsa" and "Butterfly" - photo
This design is called "bread box" due to the fact that one to one is similar to plastic containers for bread. Its lid also rises up, hiding behind the second half. If you look at the photo, you will understand everything.
There are two types of such products: opening from one or from two sides. If it is shallow, you can work with a lid that opens on one side. If the width is more than a meter, it will be easier to work if there is access from two sides. This design with two opening sides has its own name: "Snail".
A film, spunbond is stretched onto the frame, but polycarbonate is more popular for this design.
The second design differs in the type of door opening. Its vault is also made on arcs, but it opens up on hinges (see picture).
They can be installed directly on the ground or on a prepared base of bricks or timber. In some cases, the covers do not open immediately from the ground, but there is a small side 15-20 cm.
From improvised materials
Turning unnecessary things into useful products - our people have no equal in this. They make greenhouses from things that you would never even think of.
For example, you can easily make a greenhouse with your own hands from old window frames. When replacing windows, do not rush to throw them away. They make a great greenhouse. Moreover, the designs may be different. The simplest is a body made of boards, to which a window frame is attached as a cover (with glass, of course).
In order for the plants to receive maximum light, one of the sides of the frame is made higher (which faces south or east). There are different frames, any of them can be used for these purposes. As proof - a photo gallery of greenhouses made of frames that were made by diligent owners with their own hands.
They make greenhouses from barrels. Cover with an old transparent film umbrella or cut plastic water canisters.
A homemade greenhouse can be made from a plastic or foam box. Although "do" is a strong word. All you need is to stretch the film.
Mini greenhouses for seedlings
For those who grow seedlings for their own garden or flower garden, large volumes are useless. We need small greenhouses. And many grow seedlings on balconies. All of the above designs can be used for a reduced size balcony. For very small plantings, you can generally take plastic egg trays. On the one hand, you get a container for the soil and, and the lid will be instead of a shelter. See photos for other ideas.
Usage plastic bottles already familiar, only the form is non-standard. The bottle is only cut and a glass with seedlings is inserted inside, or you can plant it directly in lower part… And this is a portable mini-greenhouse for plants
A greenhouse with your own hands can be assembled in a few hours. None complex structures you don't have to build. Everything is very simple, economical and practical.
With the onset of spring, the active gardening season begins. City dwellers reached out to dachas and vineyards to cultivate their acres. The villagers also took up shovels.
Seedlings are already growing, soon it will be time to plant them in the ground, but fragile plants need protection from cold spring nights. Yes, and everyone wants to quickly enjoy early vegetables grown in their own gardens. We urgently need to build a greenhouse.
Which greenhouse to choose
Depending on many factors, the design of the greenhouse will have its own distinctive features.
First, you need to decide for which plants you are building a greenhouse. Various cultures require their own specific conditions of detention, often incompatible. For example, cucumbers and peppers love warm, stuffy and very humid environment, while tomatoes and eggplants should be served in a hot but well-ventilated dwelling. It is clear that they need different structures, given the differences in temperature conditions, intensity of moisturizing, methods of care. Some plants have a tall stem and are vigorous, they will require an appropriate height, while for growing, for example, greenery, this issue is not fundamental.
Secondly, you should decide whether your greenhouse will be winter or "spring", which is operated in spring, summer, autumn. The location of the building (west-east or north-south) depends on this.
It is advisable to build a winter structure long side, facing south, with a large slope, deaf, painted in dark color north wall. Sometimes it is made reflective and tilted to direct the rays to the ground. Coating materials are used as transparent as possible and preferably the least thermally conductive, with a decent margin of safety - cellular polycarbonate; several layers of dense stabilized polyethylene, which is reinforced, bubbly, with foam layers. You will have to think in advance about options for heating and additional lighting.
Thirdly, greenhouses can be designed for soil and soilless, hydroponic farming. They can be industrial and "country", temporary and stationary, vegetable and seedlings.
The main thing is that the greenhouse reliably performs its main functions - it allows you to maintain the desired temperature and humidity.
Here's what we'll be building
Design and location features
As the simplest in construction and very advantageous in terms of heat engineering, a design with one slope was chosen. We orient it with a slope to the east, so you can collect the greatest amount of solar heat in the morning.
Having overall size 5.5 by 3.5 meters, the greenhouse is placed with the long side in the north-south direction, in the expectation that it will be best illuminated by the productive rays of the morning and evening sun, and on a hot afternoon it will be easier to shade the plants, avoiding critically high temperatures .
As a material for the frame, we will use a tree that is easy to work with, it is well cut, it is easy to attach a film to it. At reasonable approach wooden structures very durable and strong. In addition, observing a certain "culture of installation", they are quite aesthetic. And the low price distinguishes this material from plastic and metal, especially non-ferrous.
We install racks
According to the given dimensions, which are 5.5 by 3.5 meters, we mark the walls of the structure and pull the cords low from the ground. To maintain the rectangularity of the structure, it is necessary to measure the length of the diagonals - they must be equal.
Now with a shovel or hand drill on the long side, after about 800 mm, we make wells with a depth of about 300 mm.
Well with gravel
We arrange frame racks from pine timber section 100x50 mm. Each rack, that part of it that will be in the ground, should be generously smeared with bituminous mastic and wrapped in polyethylene - this will protect them from decay. If desired and financial opportunities, their above-ground part does not hurt to be processed with special protective impregnations or drying oil, as it will be very humid in the greenhouse.
Waterproofing
We put along the cord the poles that have not yet been cut in height, and we fill up the well with an average or fine fraction rubble, gradually tamping it down. It fills the voids very tightly and stabilizes the beam well. It is worth taking advantage of the long building level, although later adjustments will still be required.
Corner posts in a strictly vertical position are fastened with slab braces from the bottom of adjacent beams.
We arrange the racks
On the short sides, the posts are placed at a distance of 1150 mm from each other. It should be formed in advance on one of them doorway not less than 800 mm wide, for the free passage of a garden wheelbarrow (700 mm). To equip the entrance, we retreat a little from the high angle so that it is possible to make it an acceptable height.
When the posts are in place, you can mark the cut lines of the timber. Under it, to the racks, from the inside of the future room, horizontal struts are screwed, with which the pillars are unfastened by level from the already rigidly fixed corners.
Now the beam can be sawn off. On the high side of the slope, the height is taken to be about 2100 mm - cucumbers will live in this part of the greenhouse. On the low side, the height of the racks is limited to 1300 mm, which is quite suitable for working with low-growing crops such as peppers, herbs. Close to the high part of the building, opposite the entrance, a path will be conveniently located. Note that the actual useful height of the greenhouse will be 100 mm more due to the roof.
Racks in place
To eliminate some weakness of the structure in the middle of the long sides, it is advisable to install an auxiliary stand, from the bottom of which another brace is mounted.
Auxiliary pole in the middle
Roofing system
Above the pillars, rafters are installed, made of timber with a section of 100x50 mm and a length of 4.5 meters. They are attached to the uprights with galvanized metal corners using commonly available 35mm "black" wood screws.
Rack and rafters
To save money with the help of scissors for metal, you can quickly make a lot of budget corners and plates perforated with a large nail from scraps of “plasterboard” profiles.
Installing and unfastening rafters
Between rafter legs and small crossbars are nailed with long posts, stabilizing the resulting acute angle.
At the bottom of the slope, the rafters are not cut to length, this will somewhat complicate the installation of the film, but they can be used as a frame for a small seasonal greenhouse for seedlings in the future.
Frame ready
Why polyethylene film
The choice of polyethylene as a coating is due to many reasons.
Unlike glass, the film transmits ultraviolet rays, which are also necessary for plants, it scatters light, which is also very useful.
The light transmission capacity for our spring greenhouse is not the most important factor, although the glass is only 10-15% better in this regard, and even then it is perfectly clean, which does not last very long.
The financial issue will undoubtedly be in favor of polyethylene, given the price of glass, which is not eternal and quite often beats and bursts. If the budget allows, then it is best to use polycarbonate for these purposes - it is preferable in all respects.
In our case, stabilized wide-format polyethylene with a thickness of 100 microns will be used.
Film fastening
First, we cut off a strip of film 6 meters long, it is enough to cover the roof and the low wall of the greenhouse. It is important that there will be no polyethylene connection at the bottom of the slope, so there is no need to put jumpers between the rafters, which can delay the flow of water.
Film stretching
The main pressing of the film to the frame is carried out with thin meter slats. Polyethylene must be well stretched and nailed through the shingle with thin 20 mm nails. It is better not to finish off the nail heads - this will allow dismantling and replacing the coating in the future with minimal losses.
At the bottom of the canvas, they are securely fixed to the racks and sprinkled with earth.
If you have to arrange the coating alone, it will help a lot for temporary pretension construction stapler. The main thing is that they can work with one hand, and the second remains free. A high-quality staple gun nails even thin slats, not to mention pneumatic or electric models.
Ventilation device
One of the main problems faced when growing vegetables in a greenhouse is the removal of excess heat. In summer, in the sun, the temperature inside the cultivation structure can reach 60 degrees, especially in the upper part, despite the fact that the mark of 40 degrees is detrimental to most crops.
Opening the doors and tucking the film from below on the walls does not give the expected effect, but only creates a draft, with which precious moisture is carried away. Cucumbers don't like him that much. It's better to play with the shading of plants various curtains, or spray polyethylene with a solution of clay, chalk.
Therefore, at the very top of the slope, we will install four opening transoms from old glazed windows. We fasten them with small canopies from the ridge to the lining with the roof. Our windows have small vents that can be opened in the spring.
It is believed that the ratio of the area of the transoms to the total area of the greenhouse on the floor is approximately 1:6 or 1:7.
Transoms on a skate
There are several options for automating the opening of transoms. They are based on the use of an electric, hydraulic or bimetallic drive with possible use temperature sensors. This is very convenient - you do not need to constantly monitor the degree of air heating inside the greenhouse and constantly manipulate the vents, however, the costs increase significantly.
Making a door
We make the door from a dry lath with a section of 30x40 mm. With the help of corners and plates, a light frame braced by 10 mm is assembled doorway in width and height. It is covered with a film and canopies are mounted to the rack with outward opening.
Convenient door
A porch is made from the same rail on the opening, on which a rubber seal can be attached closer to winter.
It is imperative to make a threshold. It will make it possible to avoid the penetration of cold air from under the door and raise it above the ground, facilitating free opening in the presence of an “unfavorable” slope of the site or fallen snow.
The door must be equipped with handles on both sides and some kind of closing mechanism (revolving bolt, bolt, hook ...).
Summing up
Such a structure is erected by one person within 16-17 hours of unhurried thoughtful work.
From a power tool, perhaps, you can do without problems with a jigsaw and a screwdriver.
The total cost of the house for vegetables came out in the region of 4500 rubles.
The following materials were used:
As you can see, in order to make a convenient hassle-free greenhouse of this size (5.5x3.5 meters), it is not at all necessary to invest serious funds. You just need to make a little effort, and it will certainly bring a good stable harvest to its owner from the earliest spring until late autumn frosts.
Ready. Seedlings can be planted
It is obvious that some issues of the internal arrangement of the structure remained “behind the scenes” - these are automation, irrigation options, artificial heating, heat storage systems, features of space organization, nuances of caring for greenhouse plants, and many others. However, these are topics for another article.
Anton Turishchev, rmnt.ru
The direct purpose of the greenhouse lies in protecting plants from adverse factors, of which there are a great many. Creating a favorable microclimate in the greenhouse, which is best suited for cultivated crops, increasing their yield by several times. And greens and fresh vegetables can be obtained much earlier compared to open ground. It is no secret for everyone that their price in the winter-spring period is an order of magnitude higher than seasonal ones. Therefore, growing crops in greenhouses is highly cost-effective.
Place for a greenhouse
If you are wondering how to make a greenhouse with your own hands, it is recommended to ask common factors that influence the choice of greenhouse. This step should be taken carefully, because you will have to buy a greenhouse for more than one year. By the way, average term The useful life of such a design is close to 10 years.
To choose a place to build a greenhouse, you need to remember that the main purpose lies in the successful growth of seeds and comfortable conditions for fruit ripening. Therefore, it is better to allocate a flat place on the site that is well protected from the wind and where sunlight comes in sufficient quantity. Therefore, it is worth installing a greenhouse in a place where there are no objects that create a large shadow.
It is not recommended to place the greenhouse near fences and trees. However, sometimes placing a tree near a greenhouse is not a disadvantage, because in summer it protects the structure from overheating, and in winter frosts it allows the sun to drop its leaves, penetrate through the branches and heat the greenhouse. You just need to make sure that it does not grow too much. But near coniferous tree, which maintains cover all year round, the greenhouse cannot be placed.
Consider also the presence of buildings near the greenhouse. It may turn out that the sun will be located above the roof in summer, and in winter, on the contrary, it will not be able to rise so high, and the building will completely shade the greenhouse all year round. It should be remembered that the greenhouse requires the supply of electricity, water and gas. Therefore, you should not place the greenhouse far from energy sources.
If you are looking to build winter greenhouse and grow plants in the cold season, then remember that the snow cover that is located around the greenhouse can directly reflect the sun's rays onto it. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the snow on the greenhouse cover does not interfere with the penetration of lighting.
Greenhouses, greenhouses and greenhouses should be installed on flat surface. Installation on sloping soil provokes the destruction of the frame, because the snow load in winter is distributed unevenly and is very significant for mid-latitudes.
Dimensions and shape of the greenhouse
When building a greenhouse, it is recommended to determine the dimensions in advance. To do this, you need to pay attention to the area of \u200b\u200bthe site where the greenhouse will be located, and decide how much you will grow plants and what grows next to the greenhouse.
The most popular forms are arched and gable greenhouses. To correctly determine the right greenhouse shape for your land plot, you need to pay attention to two points:
- Before making a purchase, try to determine what you will be growing. For low crops (undersized tomatoes, eggplant and peppers), you should choose an arched greenhouse. Tall crops (tall tomatoes, flowers and cucumbers) better fit gable.
- You should not forget about your own preferences, because the greenhouse should please you with its appearance.
The base of the greenhouse can be made in the form of a circle, trapezoid or rectangle, as well as their various variations. The most successful is the round greenhouse-tent, which uses sunlight efficiently. The frame material is PVC, wood or metal.
Coating materials
If you are interested in what you can make a greenhouse from, then remember that each material for covering the greenhouse has its own advantages and disadvantages. Greenhouse film attracts with its easy replacement, low price, low design requirements, the possibility of using a frame made of wood or metal. The shape of the greenhouse in this case can be traditional arched or arched with straight walls.
A film that is well stretched over an arched structure can be safely left for the winter. The film quietly serves up to 4 years. The disadvantages include instability to mechanical damage and low thermal insulation.
But greenhouses covered with expensive short-lived film, as well as fragile glass structures, are a thing of the past. Such structures were replaced by polycarbonate material, which is more attractive in terms of its characteristics - good light transmission and thermal conductivity, strength and price. Therefore, cellular polycarbonate has become by far the most popular material for covering greenhouses.
The main advantage of polycarbonate is its lightness and the use of such a greenhouse for up to 10 years. The possibility of bending the sheet under the greenhouse arch provides a significant increase in the load from snow. The frame is usually metal. The size of the greenhouse walls and the length of the arches depend on the size of the polycarbonate sheet.
If the covering material of the greenhouse is a double-glazed window or glass, then the frame design requires reinforcement with floor trusses and internal drains. The undoubted advantages of glass are its light transmission, durability of use and warmth. But the stringent requirements of the frame due to the severity and fragility of glass lead to an increase in the popularity of replacing glass with polycarbonate.
Frame materials
On the market for this moment Several frame options are available. Galvanized profile: such a frame is protected from corrosion, but at the same time it has low strength indicators. Here apply thin sheets steel, which can be easily deformed.
Steel frame covered powder paint, performs enough durable material however, it is not durable due to corrosion. The material is also characterized by high thermal conductivity, which has a bad effect on the yield in some cases.
A square profile made of galvanized steel is called the best option for developers who are interested in how to make a greenhouse. This profile shows high performance durability and corrosion resistance due to galvanization.
Greenhouse foundation
The foundation of the greenhouse, in addition to the standard purpose, additionally performs an important function, being an integral part of the pocket in which high ridges are placed. Given the fact that the foundation acts as an element of the overall structure of the greenhouse in its lower part, combining brick and concrete, it should not “walk” in the spring when the soil thaws, as this will otherwise lead to the formation of cracks and cause deformation of the arched structure.
Possible cracking of the glazing of the greenhouse. Almost every gardener faced this issue during the construction phase. garden house, therefore, it is necessary to determine in advance the most acceptable options for dealing with certain deformations.
Laying the foundation for a greenhouse involves the need to calculate the depth of soil freezing. Under the foundation, it is desirable to dig a trench, which is usually filled with sand with gradual tamping. The filling height must be at least 20 centimeters below the ground.
Around such a groove, you need to put a formwork 20 centimeters high directly above the soil. Along the entire perimeter, metal reinforcement is laid in the formwork, and then it is poured with concrete. With the help of such simple manipulations, it will be possible to create a foundation for a greenhouse in the form of a strong reinforced concrete belt, and the susceptibility to the influence of earth movement is excluded.
Frame construction and coating
The strength of the greenhouse frame allows you to reliably protect the crop from rain and wind. The construction of the frame should begin with marking the site. First of all, you need to decide what will be the dimensions for the future greenhouse. The standard option is a compact structure for suburban area measuring 6 by 3 meters.
After that, you can begin to assemble the greenhouse frame itself. To do this, strengthen the support posts in the soil in pre-dug holes. Along the perimeter of the structure in the amount of 6 side bars with a length of 2.15 m with 3 central bars, which have a length of 3 meters. For bars, the cross section should be 10 centimeters.
After that, the bars must be deepened at a distance of about 40-50 centimeters, followed by careful fixation. Fastening of horizontal beams is carried out along the upper part of each support. The legs of the rafters must be fixed at a step of 0.5-0.6 meters. On the north side, then install door frame dimensions 0.7 by 1.8 meters with further hanging of the door.
Then it is recommended to make a couple. From thin boards or logs, create a rectangular frame for the north and south wooden shields. The frames are deepened by approximately 40-50 centimeters, they are covered with biofuel, which is covered with a sufficient amount of straw and covered with a thick layer of soil. Please note that the northern lad of your greenhouse should be raised 10-15 centimeters above the southern lad, which is necessary for even distribution of sunlight.
On the this stage the film should be stretched on the frame of the greenhouse. It is better if a film of whole pieces is used for this purpose. From the end of the side of the greenhouse are completely closed with a film. It is necessary to fix the film using wooden slats- they are nailed directly to the supports themselves.
Creation of ventilation
In the construction of protected ground under the influence of solar heat, a greenhouse effect is created. In the greenhouse, due to the rapid rise, air stagnates, which is an ideal environment for the spread of diseases and the reproduction of pests.
Therefore, it is recommended to regulate the microclimate in the greenhouse by creating a ventilation system that provides fresh air and maintains optimal humidity air. The mode of operation of the ventilation system must be coordinated with the operation of shading and heating devices.
To ventilate greenhouses, it is customary to use side and roof windows, as well as doors. The surface of devices that are intended for ventilation should reach 20% of the total area of \u200b\u200bthe building. Airing contributes to the hardening of fruit and vegetable crops, it is useful for seedlings that are grown for planting in open ground. Two weeks before planting seedlings, it is necessary to ventilate the greenhouse day and night. In the afternoon it is worth finishing the airing no later than 16 hours.
To keep the room warm, do not allow drafts and strong gusts of wind to penetrate inside. When air is heated, its density decreases and it rises. If you place the vents under the ridge, then through them it will go out warm air, and to replace it through the doors, the gaps between the glasses and the cracks will flow cold.
In small greenhouses, it is enough to build 1 window on each side of the roof. In general, for every 2 meters of the length of the greenhouse, there should be at least 2 vents. If you have built a large greenhouse where you plan to grow alpine plants, in this case you will have to equip a continuous row of windows on both sides of the roof.
To speed up cooling and ensure complete air exchange, it is necessary to arrange side windows in the frame, which will be located slightly above the ground surface or at the level of the racks. They can be made in the usual way or as blinds. The second option is best practiced if you plan to grow orchids and other tropical plants in the greenhouse. Side windows are not suitable for such plants, because strong air currents pass through them on windy days, which can harm the flowers.
Thus, you already know how to build a greenhouse with your own hands, choose a place for a greenhouse and its shape. Depending on your goals and financial capabilities, select the material for the coating and frame. Be sure to remember about ventilation and the process of air exchange in the greenhouse.
In almost every garden near your home there are greenhouses. Until recently, almost one hundred percent were homemade greenhouses.
Based on the fact that we have a tree in the north - the most cheap material, almost all homemade greenhouses are made of wood. Sawlogs are best suited, bars measuring 75 by 50mm. They work great if you spread a board 150mm wide along the middle. 
Reiki 25 by 50mm are also cut from the same board, or from an inch. The 50mm board itself is well suited for load-bearing posts. Often round timber posts are used as vertical support posts, and cross beams are made from poles of a suitable diameter. 
The usual form of a greenhouse is a house, the length is from 4 to 6 meters, the width is from 2 to 3 meters, the entrance is usually made from one side. For better ventilation of the greenhouse, in addition to doors, additional frames or transoms are arranged. 
Used to cover greenhouses different types films, glass and polycarbonate. For a budget type, of course, a film is used, it is the cheapest of all coatings.
The most common film is polyethylene. It is usually sold with a sleeve 1.5 meters wide. Film thickness ranges from 50 to 300 microns. 
The main drawback of such a film is that it dries up at the fold on the sunny side during the season and bursts in the fall. For the second season, such a film is no longer enough, you have to buy a new one.
Reinforced film showed itself well in greenhouses. My neighbors have had a greenhouse with reinforced film on their plot for the ninth year. For the winter, it is covered with a layer of boards on top so that it does not tear with snow. 
Homemade greenhouses there is still not very much from polycarbonate, since the material itself is expensive, so it’s easier to buy a ready-made greenhouse along with a metal frame, especially since there are companies that produce all-metal arcs from a profile pipe - it turns out a very strong greenhouse frame. Although, in my opinion, homemade wooden greenhouse under polycarbonate will be more convenient to use.
Photo 1a,b shows a greenhouse "house", covered with a reinforced film. Entrance from one side, ventilation through the doors. Posts buried in the ground were used as carriers. 
In the photo 2a,b, a greenhouse under a film, size 2.5m by 6m. A distinctive feature of this greenhouse is that it is closed on the sides with frames that open when ventilation is necessary, and are folded separately into a barn for the winter. This allows you to use frames with plastic wrap repeatedly. The roof of the greenhouse is covered with a whole piece of film and pressed with wooden glazing beads on nails. Another feature of this greenhouse is the absence of a transverse beam in the middle of the greenhouse, on which everyone always bumps their heads, despite many years of practice. 
An interesting greenhouse in the form of a kind of gallery is shown in photo 3a. The greenhouse is structurally inscribed in the general row outbuildings. Greenhouse covering - glass on the side, film on top. The northern side of the greenhouse is covered with boards, the side walls are adjacent walls of neighboring buildings. Nevertheless, there is enough light, heat too. 
The greenhouse in photo 4a,b is intended for growing seedlings from early spring. It is attached directly to the wall of the bath, which gives a significant gain in warmth. The top and three sides of the greenhouse are covered with polycarbonate. The beds are located on trays and have the possibility of heating. The size of the greenhouse is approximately 2 by 4 meters. Such a greenhouse allows growing seedlings of vegetables, flowers, etc. in a comfortable environment already in March. 
The strongest from a mechanical point of view is arched greenhouse. When covered with a film in such a greenhouse, a constant tight pressing of the film is ensured at each point of the arc. Therefore, the film can only be attached at the bottom and along the edges. The design of such a greenhouse is shown in photo 5a, b. 
The arcs of the greenhouse are made of polyethylene pipes for melioration with a diameter of 50 -70mm. A lot of such pipes turned out to be unnecessary after the closure of land reclamation in the 90s. The arcs are connected by longitudinal boards or bars. To create structural rigidity, inclined wooden racks-amplifiers were installed. The size of the greenhouse is 3 by 5.5 meters. The greenhouse is closed with a single piece of reinforced film 6 by 6 meters. 
On the sides below, the film is attached to the longitudinal rail with twine using a stapler. The film was originally fastened from the ends of the greenhouse. The edges of the film are folded over and taped to form a cavity. A tube from a medical dropper is inserted into the cavity, which has good strength and elasticity. Then the tube is bound, which ensures that the film is pressed along the entire perimeter of the arc.
A very interesting arched design of the greenhouse is shown in photo 6a,b. The size of the greenhouse is small, about 2 by 4 meters. 
The load-bearing arcs of the greenhouse are made of plywood. Thick plywood is cut into bars on a circular saw, which are then clamped into a mold with clamps to give the necessary bend. After drying, the frame of the greenhouse was assembled on self-tapping screws. The greenhouse is covered with a reinforced film, which is attached with plastic plates using a stapler. Such a greenhouse without additional fastening can withstand the winter snow load. 
Greenhouses are used to grow cucumbers (and tomatoes). The dimensions of the greenhouse allow plants to be normally located in it;
In the photo 7a, b is presented homemade greenhouse
from metal arcs, the ends of the greenhouse are made of boards according to the size of the arc. The film on the non-working side of the greenhouse is nailed tightly with rails, on the other side it is attached to a bar or pole and, in the closed state, is pressed to the ground due to the weight of the bar. 
When opening the greenhouse, the film is wrapped around a bar, which gradually rises to the middle of the arc and remains in this state. To close the greenhouse, it is enough to push the bar off balance and hold it so that the film is not damaged. In hot weather, the entire greenhouse can be opened. Cucumbers in greenhouses usually grow on the ground, and are not tied vertically, as in greenhouses, although in this greenhouse they are also tied vertically - dimensions allow. 
The original greenhouse made of polyethylene pipes in photo 8a. The bottom of the greenhouse is made of boards. The pipes at the bottom are sawn in half and attached to the boards. The ends of the greenhouse are covered with a film, which is attached to the arcs with brackets with a construction stapler through twine. The cover film is nailed to the rail and is removed for the day.
The simplest village greenhouses are shown in photos 9a, b. The walls and sides of greenhouses are made of boards or slabs, the frame is any slats. Usually the film is needed to shelter plants from spring frosts. When the tomatoes and cucumbers grow and crawl out of the greenhouse, it is no longer closed.
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