A do-it-yourself kitchen table is both an opportunity to save money and a way to provide the kitchen with unique furniture that fits perfectly into the available space. However, it is important to correctly determine the dimensions and shape of the future structure.
How to make a wooden dining table
A table made of solid wood is beautiful, natural and, as a rule, expensive. But buying such a table is not necessary, because you can make it yourself with no less quality and for much less money.
So, to make a dining table with your own hands, you will need:
- 4 things. baluster legs for the table, 73 cm high and not too thin;
- For the tabletop: 4 dry edged wooden boards 1 m long (for a table 60 cm wide);
- For the frame: 2 boards 80 cm long and 2 boards 40 cm long.
Prepare tools: planer, grinder or grinder, jigsaw for cutting boards, circular saw, drill (with 8 mm drill), screwdriver, sandpaper, self-tapping screws (30 mm), wood glue, dowels, clamps (preferably). And, of course, a pencil, tape measure, gloves and goggles will come in handy.
To finish the table, you will need varnish, stain or paint along with a primer. Let's make the table first. To do this, you need to accurately fit all 4 boards to the same length - 100 cm. If your boards were not sawn at the sawmill, then they also need to be trimmed in width and thickness. Then they need to be carefully polished with a planer. The better you sand the wood, the smoother the countertop will be. Work the edges well so that the boards fit as tightly as possible to each other.
We will connect the boards not with screws and nails, but with glue and dowels (chops). To do this, we make the same marks on the edges of all boards in increments of 10-15 cm and drill holes for the dowels with an 8 mm drill. Then we sand the edges and apply wood glue to them and into the holes made. Now we drive the chopsticks processed with the same glue into the holes and connect all 4 bars in turn. We remove excess glue on the surface with sandpaper and grind it, as well as all edges with a planer. At this stage, you can go over the countertop with a metal sponge to give the wood texture.
So, the tabletop is ready. Now you need to fasten the legs and make a base for it.
To do this, you need to evenly fasten the balusters with short transverse boards with glue and screws. The glue dries for at least 12 hours.
We fasten the legs to the long crossbars and drill holes in them in order to install the countertop later.
After the glue in the frame dries, you can proceed to install the countertop on it (frame).
If you want to make the table longer and wider, then you need to strengthen the table with two additional cross bars, as shown in the photo.
So, the table is almost ready, it remains only to treat it with varnish or stain or paint it, having previously primed it.
What color to paint the table? Start from personal preferences and the color of the rest of the furniture. Below is the most versatile option - the table top and legs are stained.
You can see the main mistakes of staining a tree with your own hands in this video.
If you like gloss, then the surface of the table can be stained, and varnished on top (example in the photo below), or simply varnished.
You can paint the legs white, and stain the countertop to get a design like in the next photo.
How to make a kitchen table from chipboard
A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of laminated chipboard is a practical and budget solution. Such countertops are covered with decorative plastic, which is resistant to abrasion. In the typical version, the dimensions of the tabletop canvas are 3000x600x36 (26) mm, but today it will not be difficult to purchase a chipboard sheet sawn to the desired dimensions or negotiate in a furniture workshop to sell a suitable trim.
You will also need:
- Connecting and end strips;
- end edges;
- Ties.
Even if you get a countertop of the right size, you will need to additionally process the ends - this will make the result more attractive, as well as ensure that the base is protected from moisture. For these purposes, you can use a special furniture edging based on polyvinyl chloride or glue an edge tape. The edging option is considered more practical for a dining table and suitable for home craftsmen.
For the kitchen table, you will also need appropriate supports - you can buy the legs separately or give preference to the finished base. It all depends on which option your drawings provide. The most common option is round legs D = 60 mm and 71 cm high. They can be collapsible, adjustable in height, and also differ in design - matte, painted, shiny.
In our case, these will be shiny chrome-plated legs-rods with a diameter of 60 mm, as well as a tabletop made of white chipboard 36 mm thick and a white plastic mortise T-shaped edging with girths is matched to it.
So, how to make a dining table with a chipboard top:
- The marking is applied to the material according to the drawing. Rounding corners must have a radius of 60 mm or more.
- The tabletop is shaped with a jigsaw.
A saw with reversible teeth should be used, otherwise the plastic coating may be chipped. First, the corner of the chipboard is cut with a jigsaw with a margin of 2 mm, and then it is finally rounded off with a grinder.
- A groove for furniture edging is milled.
- The edging is stuffed. Before this, the ends of the product must be covered with silicone sealant. The sealant is laid both in the edging and on the top side of the countertop. A rubber mallet is used to stuff the piping. Then the excess sealant is removed.
- The legs are attached. To do this, markings are made with a pencil on the back of the table top. In most cases, the legs are placed 100 mm from the edge.
To fasten the holders, self-tapping screws with a countersunk head about 20 mm long are used. After that, the legs are put on the holders and fixed with a hex key - that's it, your new table is ready.
How to correctly determine the dimensions
According to the principles described above, tables can be made larger or smaller in length and width. How to choose the best size for your family?
If we are talking about a standard kitchen with dimensions from 6 to 8 squares, then the drawings will show a typical design with a height of 750 mm and a perimeter of 800 * 500 ... 1200 * 600 mm.
A do-it-yourself dining table should be calculated for a certain number of people. Usually it corresponds to the number of residents - 3-9, but a couple of free places are still added for guests. For large companies, a good solution will be.
Calculations are carried out as follows: the number of persons is multiplied by 60 (“working” perimeter per person). As for the width of the countertop, here we follow the recommendations of experts - its optimal values are from 800 to 1100 mm. Narrow tables are difficult to serve, and wide tables are uncomfortable for those sitting.
If you decide to make the kitchen table oval (round) with your own hands, then you will have to calculate the circumference - diameter * 3.14.
Form Selection Rules
The shape of the kitchen table plays a significant role in the perception of space. Universal design - a rectangle or square with right angles. It is balanced and can be installed close to the wall or in the center of the room, saving space.
Oval models are also quite comfortable and beautiful, but they do not differ in large capacity - the most dimensional product will accommodate no more than 8 people. In addition, they require large areas - more than 8 square meters. meters, because you can’t put them against the wall.
It can also be called a universal and traditional option, suitable for both very and large kitchens. But it has less capacity than a rectangular table.
The best option is a rectangular table with rounded corners. How to make such a table from chipboard with your own hands, we have already described above.
Furniture care rules
After the dining table is made, you will need to take care of the long service life of the product.
So, furniture made of wood, polished and lacquered, needs careful care, as it can be easily scratched. In addition, traces of contact with hot are possible here. A universal polishing composition is selected as a basic wood care.
If we are talking about a countertop made of MDF or chipboard with a plastic coating, then caring for it is not difficult and consists in regular washing with detergents.
Do not forget that kitchen furniture must be moved away from heaters and from walls bordering the street. Direct sunlight will also be harmful to wooden furniture.
A do-it-yourself table may well be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is fairly straightforward and understandable.
For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for an overly small kitchen. Buying custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up tools and design your own “work” on your own, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.
In addition, there is often a desire to show their creative abilities in the conditions of a summer residence, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip a veranda or gazebo of a suburban area. If you have the right materials and tools at hand, you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a ready-made project, and then get to work.
To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.
Tools for the job
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.
You can use the usual, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:
- Planer, which level the wood and drive the parts to the desired size.
- Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
- Saws of various sizes and modifications, which are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
- Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
- Screwdriver Set.
- Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
- Sandpaper for grinding.
Many of the tools can be replaced by more modern and convenient devices:
- An electric jigsaw will do all the work for which the various saws mentioned above were previously used.
Jigsaw rating - The grinder will help to make the surfaces even and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious manual sanding procedure.
- Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill curly grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need and have some experience, you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.
- will significantly speed up the work, since you will not have to spend several minutes twisting each screw. In addition, during certain operations, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).
- The building level will help to make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.
So that the finished furniture does not turn out "skewed", the assembly is controlled by the level An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage
To make a similar country table - everyone can do it Necessary materials
For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680 × 850 mm, not too many wooden blanks will be required. You need to prepare the following:
- Timber, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
- Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
- Joiner's glue.
- Board size:
- 1680×100×25 mm — 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
- 850×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (transverse frame details);
- 1580×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (facing boards for the side elements of the frame);
- 950×100×25 mm - 17 pcs. (boards for countertops).
All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with a stain, and for the appearance of a textured pattern, it is carefully passed from above with a grinder. Fine-grained sandpaper will remove the faded raised parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than the depressions.
Installation of a garden table
When all the details for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to the assembly.
Frame or "box" of the table - The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards 1680 × 100 × 25 mm in size and two end boards 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. On the end boards, the location of the inner and outer boards is marked. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. Be sure to accurately note the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end, especially if the connection will be made by tie-in.
The connection of elements can be carried out in different ways:
Connection with the choice of "quarter" and using metal corners - using a steel corner - this is the easiest and most reliable way;
- the tie-in method is a more complicated method, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;
Several types of tongue and groove connection - “groove-thorn”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for beginners with no experience;
- dowel connection is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be joined.
- All connections, as a rule, are carried out using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
- The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, therefore, after connecting all the elements, it is necessary to carry out control using a building corner and measure and compare the length of the diagonals.
- If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.
- When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, cladding boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are fixed to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their fastening also needs to be marked, since along their edges there should be a distance for mounting the legs. Facing boards are also planted on glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be sunk into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.
- The next step is the transverse sheathing of the tabletop with boards 950 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of their fastening must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The worktop protrusion above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.
- Further, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the extreme boards are also fixed to the end sides. In order for the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the boards to a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the screws will be screwed. In order to avoid cracking of the boards during installation work, it is necessary to drill through holes.
- After that, legs from a bar with a section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed to the edges of the longitudinal boards, they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.
The next step is to install the legs. - The legs can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the junction. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and nuts are tightened on them from the inside of the frame using a wrench.
- The final stage of manufacturing is the sealing of the self-tapping screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. With this home-made putty, fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue dries, the entire countertop, and especially the places covered with “corks” of glue, must be sanded well.
- After that, the table can be varnished or water-based paint. After waiting for the decorating or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in a country gazebo, on a veranda or terrace in a recreation area.
If desired, it will be easy to make a bench or a set for the table.
Small folding table for the kitchen
Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.
- Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally hit, so the table is quite safe for installation in the children's room.
- The presence of a double-sided capacious bedside table will allow you to store various little things and small toys in it.
- The table is equipped with a worktop of sufficient size so that the child, sitting at it, can do homework.
- In addition, on the tabletop there is a place for a laptop or books necessary for studying.
- If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if a soft cloth is laid on its surface.
Given all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.
Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions in a special article on our portal.
Necessary materials and parts for a folding table
To assemble such a comfortable piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the details that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:
Table diagram with assembly part numbers marked (clickable illustration - click to enlarge) | part number on the drawing | the name of detail | Quantity, pcs. | Part size, mm | Production material, thickness, mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Folding table top. | 1 | 600×600 | |
| 2 | Fixed table top. | 1 | 600×475 | Plywood 25 mm thick |
| 3 | 2 | 530×30 | ||
| 4 | 2 | 120×30 | Plywood 18 mm thick | |
| 5 | The upper end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×30 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 6 | Groove element for leg movement on a folding tabletop. | 2 | 530×20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 7 | Groove element for the movement of the legs on the table top. | 2 | 120×20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 8 | The lower end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 9 | Side walls of the table. | 2 | 720x520 | MDF 19 mm |
| 10 | The horizontal details of the pedestal, forming shelves. | 3 | 520×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 11 | The lower vertical part of the internal partition of the pedestal. | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 12 | The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the pedestal. | 1 | 312×184 | MDF 19 mm |
| 13 | The middle horizontal part of the pedestal. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 14 | Cabinet door. | 1 | 477×346 | MDF 19 mm |
| 15 | Cabinet shelf. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 16 | The front panel of a drawer of a curbstone. | 1 | 346×209 | MDF 19 mm |
| 17 | The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front). | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 18 | Drawer side panels. | 2 | 341×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 19 | Back panel of the drawer. | 1 | 272×120 | MDF 19 mm |
| 20 | Bottom panel of the drawer. | 1 | 341×272 | MDF 19 mm |
| Drawer handles and drawer doors. | 2 | Ø 30 mm | Wood | |
| Upper leg piece. | 1 | 80×80×18 | Plywood 18 mm thick | |
| Mobile table leg. | 1 | Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702 | Wood | |
| Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop. | 2 | Ø 50 mm | Metal | |
| Furniture hinges for doors. | 2 | The size depends on the shape. | Metal | |
| Bottom end panels covering the gap under the pedestal. | 2 | 20×300×5 | Plywood 5 mm |
The drawings show a drawing of the table, which can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.
The main dimensions of the table (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) 
Separate nodes of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for moving the legs (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, modern electric tools will be required that are able to bring the workpieces to professional perfection.
Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.
Installation of a folding table-cabinet
It is worth starting the manufacture of the table with the most important and largest part of it - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table may well serve as an ordinary compact pedestal.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step from plywood 25 mm thick, using a jigsaw or a circular saw, is to cut blanks for the countertop, 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm in size. |
 | Further, marking is carried out on a larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or you can make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope. |
 | Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or a circular saw with the appropriate compass attachment. |
 | Further, a milling cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, if desired, even or rounded. |
 | The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will dock with the second part of the countertop even. Then its edges are processed in the same way. |
 | In the next step, the two processed parts of the tabletop are laid on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made for the installation of furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the countertop. Furniture hinges can have different shapes, so they should be laid in the marked place and circled with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special curly grooves are arranged in plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. In the finished holes, the loops are fixed with self-tapping screws. |
 | After connecting the two parts of the table top with hinges, in the middle of the panels, on their lower side, markings are made to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed by a milling cutter: 530 × 30 mm in size - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 30 mm - 1 pc., 120 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed over the lower rails of the rails, are cut off at the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These sections are necessary so that their corners do not interfere with the movement of the legs along the formed channel. Then, to the lined section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the countertop, the parts are glued with carpentry glue. First, they are fixed with glue, and then the longest rails, having a size of 530 × 20 mm, are screwed with self-tapping screws, then the part 122 × 20 mm blocks the channel. On top of the long and short fixed rails, the second ones are glued, having the same length, but a greater width - they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places for screwing in the screws so that the upper ones do not stumble upon those that fix the lower rails. In the same way, four parts are fixed on the rectangular part of the table top. All elements must be processed to smoothness and perfectly evenly fixed to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving. |
 | The leg is usually made on a lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from the master or purchase it ready-made. In extreme cases, you can make it square by processing the timber of the desired height to smoothness. Then, on the upper end part of the leg, with the help of a dowel and glue, a guide square plate made of plywood, measuring 80 × 80 × 18 mm, is fixed exactly in the center. |
 | Further, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made. |
 | The finished tabletop is painted or coated with a water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured plywood pattern. After that, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of cabinets. |
 | The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, in order to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out with a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be machined to smoothness with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy. |
 | If you plan to paste over the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and provides reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels. |
 | The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make curly grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and fixed. Holes are made in the same way as in a countertop using a router, but in this case, the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be located at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before drilling, it is necessary to carefully mark out. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet, on which the door will be fixed. Then the door walls are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for self-tapping screws. |
 | In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, stepping back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a comfortable position in height, a point is marked through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle. |
 | All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but also protect the material from the negative influence of the specific kitchen humid environment. |
 | Next, you can proceed to the assembly of the nightstand. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can assemble on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on even bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the caps of the self-tapping screws after assembly will have to be masked with various compositions. The build process goes like this: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels and its location are marked with a pencil using a building corner. -Immediately, the location of fasteners is simultaneously outlined on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then, holes are drilled at the marked points of the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After that, before gluing the parts, places for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, in the marked places, shelf-holder brackets are mounted, for which holes are also drilled. - Further, dowels lubricated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - In the same way, non-removable jumper shelves are mounted, simultaneously with the side walls. |
 | Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure has dried out well. To make the cabinet more rigid, it is laid on its side and compressed with clamps for drying. |
 | While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the drawer can also be done using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for mounting fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the dowels are smeared with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom. |
 | Between themselves, the sidewalls are twisted with the help of self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be drowned in wood, and the holes are sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another option for fastening can be furniture corners, which are screwed to the sidewalls from the inside with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners. |
 | When assembling a box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a building corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise a skew may form. |
 | If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the box, then first, on the sides of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, a line is drawn along which the guides will be fixed. |
 | Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the box. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. It is recommended that, in addition to self-tapping screws, glue is used to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are pulled together by four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, a hole is drilled in the center of the front panel, through which the handle is screwed. |
 | Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the connection of the cabinet and countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then fix it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But, first, the countertop must be properly positioned. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the legs towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg by 120 mm. |
 | Having fixed the countertop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table doors onto the self-tapping screws. Then a drawer is inserted, and shelves are installed on the shelf holders. |
 | When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, for its decoration, you can choose other colors that will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room. |
 | In the open state, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its "light" design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the table top makes it safe for children. Therefore, this version of the table can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms. |
If there is a need to save money, or there is simply a great desire to prove oneself in carpentry, then you should not postpone self-production. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.
For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting version of the round table is offered, which may well serve both at home and on the site.
Video: round table assembly example
And one more idea of a kitchen table, which, if incorrect, will also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement independently:
Video: lightweight collapsible kitchen table
The table is an essential attribute of the kitchen interior. At the same time, it should not only combine style, beauty and comfort, but also be quite reliable. And what could be more reliable and durable than natural wood? The problem is that high-quality wooden furniture is not cheap, so not everyone can buy it for their kitchen. However, do not despair, because making a wooden table with your own hands is a completely feasible task for a person who is able to distinguish a screw from a nail and knows how to use a drill, a jigsaw and a grinding machine.
The choice of kitchen table design depends on several factors, such as the size of the kitchen, the number of occupants, and the interior design. If you look at the options that furniture manufacturers offer, then among the whole variety of designs, three categories can be distinguished:
- tables of medium size for 4-6 people;
- overall tables for a large family or receiving guests;
- practical folding tables for small kitchens.
A table in the kitchen should combine three qualities: aesthetics, convenience and practicality.
To make a kitchen table with your own hands, you need to have a product drawing on hand, the necessary set of tools and at least some woodworking skills. Below are design options for standard, large and small kitchens with photo instructions and a detailed description of each stage in the manufacture of a wooden table.
Rectangular baluster dining table
A rectangular design with a standard size of 1200x600mm is considered the most popular due to its practicality. This table can easily accommodate a family of 4 people. In addition, it can be installed both in the center of the kitchen (if space permits), or placed close to the wall in order to save free space.
schematic drawing
In order to make the wooden table more attractive, we will use balusters instead of straight legs. If there is no lathe at hand, then such legs can be ordered separately at the nearest furniture workshop.
Note! Balusters are figured pillars that are primarily found on the railings of stairs, balconies and roofs. However, the use of these elements in the manufacture of kitchen tables is also far from uncommon.
Drawing of a rectangular table on balusters
To assemble the product, you will need the following materials and tools:
- 4 finished baluster legs 720 mm high;
- furniture board 30 mm thick for countertops;
- board 20x100mm for the frame;
- wood screws about 30 mm long;
- drill (screwdriver);
- a circular saw;
- grinder;
- sandpaper of different grain sizes;
- building level;
- square;
- roulette;
- wood glue.
Step by step assembly instructions
A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of wood on balusters is made in the following sequence:
- We prepare the cross members of the frame. To do this, we cut a 100 mm board into 4 parts (2 by 400 mm, 2 by 1000 mm), after which we remove the burrs and bring the surface to a smooth state with sandpaper or a grinder.
- We take the balusters and connect them in pairs with short crossbars (400 mm), making a small indent from the edge of the leg (about 15 mm). Fastening is carried out by means of glue and screws, which are twisted at an angle from the inside of the board.
Tip! In order to prevent the appearance of cracks, it is better to pre-make holes for the screws.
Fastening the short crossbars to the legs
- We connect the finished pairs of legs with long crossbars (1000 mm). The fastening algorithm is the same as in the previous step.
The final stage of mounting the table frame
- After we have made the frame of a wooden table with our own hands, we move on to the countertop. If it comes to the kitchen, then it is better to purchase a ready-made furniture board. Although for a gazebo or cottage, where the requirements for the appearance of the tabletop are not so strict, it can be assembled from grooved boards.
Furniture board for countertop
- The finished tabletop must be connected to the frame. To do this, lay it face down on a flat and clean surface, and evenly place the base with legs on top. The fastening of the crossbars to the tabletop is carried out with screws according to the same principle that was described in paragraph 2. However, in this case, you must be extremely careful not to drill through the countertop.
- On this, the manufacture of a kitchen table with your own hands can be considered almost complete. The last stage is characterized by the process of grinding the surface, as well as the application of stain or varnish, the color of which is matched to the interior of the kitchen.
Note! The number of layers of varnish depends on the type of wood. Hardwoods, such as oak or hornbeam, do not absorb varnish well, so 1-2 coats are enough in this case. But for pine or spruce, you will need at least 3 layers of coating.
Wooden dining table with balusters
Wooden table for a large family
An oversized table at which you can dine with a large family or arrange a feast by inviting friends must have a reliable design. Regular four legs are usually not enough to hold a heavy tabletop. Therefore, it is necessary to take additional measures to strengthen the frame.
Product design
In this example, we will consider how to make a large wooden table for the kitchen with our own hands measuring 2337x978 mm (naturally, slight deviations in one direction or another are allowed).
Drawing of a large wooden table
Before starting work, lumber should be prepared for:
- supporting frame (38x90 mm);
- countertops (38x140 mm);
- support bars (19x64 mm).
You will also need the following tools:
- a circular saw;
- jigsaw;
- drill;
- screws (4x65 mm);
- drills (3 mm);
- furniture glue;
- pencil, tape measure, sandpaper.
Manufacturing steps
To make the table reliable and have an attractive appearance, you need to responsibly approach each stage. So let's get started:
- We make parts for the future wooden table from the purchased lumber with our own hands:
- 2 upper transverse beams (38x90x978 mm);
- 4 legs (38x90x695 mm);
- 2 bowstrings (38x90x921 mm);
- 1 longitudinal lower beam (38x90x1575 mm);
- 1 longitudinal upper beam (38x90x1473 mm);
- 2 braces (38x90x772 mm);
- 7 blanks for countertops (38x90x2337);
- 6 support bars (19x64x432 mm).
We carefully grind all the details, achieving an absolutely smooth surface without burrs.
Important! The quality of polishing a wooden surface depends on the right grit of emery. For primary grinding, the grain size should not be larger than 200 µm.
- We fasten the legs in pairs with each other using transverse beams (above) and a bowstring (below). We use two screws for each connection.
- With the help of a longitudinal lower beam, we connect two bowstrings together.
Fastening of the lower transverse beam
- We strengthen the structure with the help of the upper transverse beam.
Advice! In order for the beam to securely connect the two halves, in addition to screws, additional wooden dowels with a diameter of 10 mm should be used.
- We cut the ends of the blanks for the braces at an angle of 45 degrees. After that, we attach both braces to the upper and lower transverse beams.
Fastening of the upper transverse beam
- We connect the wooden boards intended for the countertop with the cross beams on the inside of the structure.
- Additionally, we strengthen the countertop with the help of supporting strips. Make sure that they do not go beyond the dimensions of the table.
Strengthening the structure with support bars
- If desired, semicircular corners can be made in the kitchen wooden table, which will give the product a more elegant look.
This option is suitable for a large kitchen or dining room, and for giving
Folding wooden table for a small kitchen
If there is not enough space in the kitchen to accommodate a large or medium-sized table, then you should look for a more original approach. One of these solutions is a folding table that is attached to the wall and is very easy to remove, freeing up the space occupied by itself.
Materials and tools
To make a folding wooden table for the kitchen with your own hands, you will need the following:
- furniture board 30 mm thick;
- wooden beam 20x60 mm;
- loops (6 pcs.);
- corner lamella (2 pcs.);
- wooden dowels;
- dowel;
- screws;
- drill;
- jigsaw;
- grinder or sandpaper;
- glue;
Assembly: step by step
Advice! Before starting work, decide on the place where the table will be installed. Since the design is attached to the wall, it is very important to take into account all the features of the future interior of the kitchen, so that later you do not have to rearrange, leaving unsightly holes from the dowels in a conspicuous place.
Do-it-yourself kitchen table assembly steps:
- We prepare parts for folding legs. To do this, we cut the wooden beam into 8 parts: 4 with a length of 720 mm, 4 with a length of 320 mm. We sand each element, removing burrs.
- Assemble two rectangular frames. The rails are interconnected by means of furniture dowels, under which it is first necessary to drill blind holes with a diameter of 8 mm.
- We connect the finished frames with each other with loops. In addition, a narrow rail must be attached to one frame with the help of hinges, which will be attached to the wall.
- We fix the frame to the wall with dowels, after which we install corner lamellas on the sides. It is important to arrange the slats in such a way that they do not interfere with the legs to fold.
Advice! Instead of corner slats, you can use any furniture corners of the appropriate size, matched to the color of the table.
Fastening the structure to the wall
- From a wooden shield we cut out a tabletop measuring 900x600 mm. For a more effective look, the corners can be rounded. After that, all ends should be processed with a grinder.
- We “separate” a piece 250 mm long from the tabletop, which will be attached to the wall structure. The two parts are connected to each other by means of loops.
- We install the 250 mm part on the corner lamellas and connect the elements with screws.
The final stage of mounting a folding table in the kitchen with your own hands
- You can ennoble the table at your discretion by applying stain, varnish or paint. But even in its original form, such a product looks very good.
Wooden folding table - an original solution for a small kitchen
On the Internet, you can find a lot of options for how to make a wooden table with your own hands. We looked at three of the simplest solutions for standard, large and small kitchens, the production of which is quite economical and does not require specialized machines and extensive experience in working with wood. For the manufacture of more complex structures, we recommend that you seek help from specialists.
Finally, watch the video, which shows how you can make a pretty decent kitchen table out of old wooden planks.
Video: do-it-yourself wooden table
To make it more convenient to stay in a recreation area, a gazebo or a dining area in the garden, you can make a table for the dacha with your own hands. It will also come in handy for work: transplant flowers or sow seeds in a seedling box, sort out herbs or mushrooms at the table. It is not necessary to buy plastic products in the store if you can independently assemble a country table made of wood or improvised materials.
Building a garden table is a lot of work, and using wood as the main material will help make it strong and light.
How to make a wooden table?
First you need to determine the dimensions of the product, depending on the area on which it is planned to place it. Enough space should be left in the gazebo or rest area so that you can move freely around the table, put chairs or benches. Bulky furniture does not fit well into the interior of a gazebo or summer kitchen, so the main requirement for it is harmonious dimensions. But set on an open lawn, a wooden table can be large enough to accommodate everyone.
For the manufacture of furniture in the gazebo or kitchen you will need:
Figure 1. Scheme of fastening the legs of a wooden table.
- bar 5x5 or ready-made curly balusters;
- board 2.5-3 cm thick;
- self-tapping screws, furniture corner;
- screwdriver, drill;
- hacksaw or electric saw;
- plane;
- measuring tool, construction square;
- furniture varnish, brush.
Before assembly, all parts of the future piece of furniture must be processed with a grinder or planer and sandpaper. Parts prepared for the table must be smoothly ground on all sides.
The manufacture of the table begins with the assembly of the frame for the tabletop. This is a construction of 2 longitudinal and 2 transverse boards on which the legs are fixed. The legs can be made from an ordinary bar, slightly cutting off the lower end of each segment with a planer and chamfering. If you purchase turned balusters for stairs at a hardware store, you can create a table with figured legs for an interior in the style of shabby chic or Provence. The optimal height is about 75 cm for a dining table, but for furniture with a different purpose, it can be chosen as desired.
When assembling the frame, it must be taken into account that the tabletop should protrude approximately 3-4 cm beyond it around the entire perimeter. Therefore, if ready-made boards for a tabletop of a certain size are purchased, the frame must be calculated so that its length and width from one outer corner to another are 6-8 cm less than the same tabletop dimensions.
Assembly is carried out in several stages:
Figure 2. Scheme of strengthening the folding table.
- Fasten the legs in pairs with the help of crossbars. Mounting can be done as shown in Fig. 1. In this case, screw in the screws at an acute angle to the plane of the crossbars from the wrong side. To prevent splitting of the board, you must first make holes, into which the fasteners will then pass. The ends for the strength of the connection can be additionally lubricated with wood glue.
- In the same way, mount the long sides of the underframe by connecting 2 pairs of legs to each other. Fastening to the boards can be done differently (using a steel corner, attaching it to the inner surface of the boards and a bar or baluster with self-tapping screws). Another way is to fix the bar on the plane of the board, aligning its ends with the outer corners of the legs. Then the boards of the long sides must be placed on the bar and the end, screwing the screws into the leg through the holes in the plane.
Fastening the table top to the base can also be done in different ways: on a corner, corner rail, self-tapping screws. In the first case, it will be necessary to screw the corners from the underside of the underframe and tabletop so that one of their sides is on the leg or frame board, and the other is on the tabletop shield. To attach to the corner rail, you need to screw the pieces of the bar 3x3 cm onto the inner sides of the frame boards. Fix the tabletop on the rail by screwing the screws through the holes in the bar. The length of the screws must be chosen so that they do not go to the outside of the countertop. The easiest way is to drill holes on the front side of the shield and screw self-tapping screws through them into the end of the leg.
After assembly, putty all visible traces of screwing in screws and clean with sandpaper after drying. Eliminate cracks and other defects on the surface of parts of the table in the same way. Cover the finished product with furniture varnish in one layer. After the varnish has dried, sand it with a fine sandpaper and carefully remove dust. Apply 2 more coats of varnish, allowing to dry.
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How to make a folding desktop for a summer residence?
If the table is not needed daily, but is used only from time to time, it can be made folding.
Figure 3. Diagram of a table with cruciform legs.
For such furniture, it is not necessary to purchase an expensive tree; you can get by with improvised means and make it from a wooden pallet. In addition to it, you will need:
- small loops;
- self-tapping screws with a hook head or eyebolts - 5 pcs.;
- metal chains or strong cord;
- self-tapping screws, screwdriver;
- sandpaper.
You can strengthen such a folding table (Fig. 2) directly on the wall of a wooden structure or gazebo. You can use an additional shield on which you can hang working tools.
For manufacturing, you will need a pallet with carefully polished surfaces. Fix one side of the loop on the ends of the planks adjacent to the wall or shield and attach the pallet to the vertical. To hold the tabletop, screw 2 eyebolts into it and the shield, fasten chains or a strong decorative cord to the rings.
To keep the countertop upright when the table is not needed, it is necessary to fasten a short piece of chain or a loop of cord in the middle of its side farthest from the wall. Screw a self-tapping screw with a ring or a hook on the shield in the appropriate place.
Of course, today everyone has the opportunity to buy any furniture in the store, including a table. But why not make it yourself, with your own hands?
This is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In addition, you have the opportunity to make such a table that will ideally fit in size and appearance to the interior of your kitchen or other room.
In addition, do-it-yourself furniture is not only saving money, but also some kind of, but a reason for pride, since not every man knows how to make something these days.
What are the tables
If you decide from the boards with your own hands, then you need to figure out what types of tables are, and decide what exactly you need.
The simplest is an ordinary table with four legs, a table top and a frame. It will not be difficult to make it even for those who are not experienced in woodworking.
If you are experienced enough in this matter, you can make the dining table round or oval, decorate it with carvings, paintings, or burn patterns and patterns on the surface.
A more difficult option is from the boards. In fact, this is the same ordinary table, but rather thick and long crossbars are attached to its legs, on which seat boards are laid on top. So we get a table with benches on both sides. Such furniture is well suited for both the kitchen and for installation in the courtyard of a private house or cottage.
If the room has free space only in the corner, make a corner table that fits perfectly into this unoccupied space. It may not be as convenient to dine behind it as at a classic table, but you can put a TV, microwave or kettle on it - there will be enough space there.
Another interesting option could be a window sill table.
In fact, this is the same window sill, but significantly expanded and adapted, for example, for a convenient workplace for a schoolchild.
The advantage of this solution is that the table will be well lit for most of the day.
There is also a minus: sitting at such a table in winter, you will have to rest your feet on a very warm, even hot radiator, which is not very convenient.
Materials and tools
Buying everything you need to make a table with your own hands is quite simple and will not be difficult or expensive. The main material for the dining table is wood, or rather:
- Boards 25 to 50 mm thick, 100–150 mm wide, rather long.
The thicker the material for the tabletop, frame and legs, the heavier, but at the same time more durable they will be.
Choose boards from good wood, without any defects. - Bar. It is necessary for the manufacture of table legs, so choose thick enough and strong samples. The beam can be replaced with the same boards, if you arrange them with the letter "G", or use purchased aluminum table legs. You can also use balusters (curly carved wooden posts that support the railing on some stairs) as legs.
- Chipboard or plywood sheets, which can be used as countertop materials. Choose samples that are thick and strong enough to withstand daily stress.
As with the materials and Do-it-yourself tools and fasteners are easy to get, they are in most homes. If something is missing, you can buy it at the nearest hardware store.
- pencil, corner, roulette and ruler;
- jigsaw or hacksaw on wood;
- screwdriver with a set of nozzles and drills;
- plane, if it is necessary to pre-treat the boards from irregularities and defects;
- kit self-tapping screws, furniture bolts and nuts;
- sandpaper or Sander;
- varnish or stain, roller or tassel for processing the finished table.
Attention! When working with a jigsaw, always remember the safety rules and keep small children or pets away!
simple plank kitchen table
First we need to make a countertop.
There are several options here:
- Cut out a piece of the desired size from a sheet of chipboard or plywood using a jigsaw;
- Lay several fairly wide boards and subsequently fix them on the frame;
- Take a large number of relatively narrow boards, place them side up and glue them together with wood glue.
The result is a fairly thick, heavy and durable countertop.
Stages of work
Step 1. Collecting from boards countertop.
Step 2 We make a frame from boards or their wooden bars. In size, it can be made equal to the tabletop or with a slight indentation, about 2–2.5 centimeters on each side of the table. Having fastened the parts of the frame with screws, connect the frame with the tabletop with them.
Step 3 After we With put together the frame and the tabletop, half the table is ready. It remains to make only his legs. If a timber is used for this, drill two holes in it for furniture bolts. Moreover, they can be made both on the one hand, one above the other, and on two different ones for more secure fastening to the frame.
Important! Carefully check the length of the table legs, they should not differ from each other. Otherwise, the table will stand unevenly and stagger. If you do not want it to spoil the floor material, fix rubber “shoes” at the bottom of the legs.
After that, make similar holes in the table frame and fasten the legs and frame with bolts and nuts. Also, the legs can be fixed from above, using screws, but over time, this fastening may weaken.
If you want to make table legs from boards, fold two boards into an “G” on the outer or inner corner of the frame and secure them with all the same furniture bolts or screws.
To prevent the legs from loosening, connect the folded boards together at the bottom and middle parts with screws or nails.
That's all, simple and reliable, do-it-yourself, ready!
Advice: Before proceeding, make a simple drawing, preferably from several sides. Constantly check the dimensions of the parts. Some parts of the same size can be sawn out at the same time if you fix the boards or timber with clamps.
pallet table
Wooden pallets are widely used in shops and warehouses as cargo pallets.
If you wish, you can get a few pieces for free and use them as a basis for making an original and unusual kitchen table.
If at least one side of the pallet surface is solid, then you no longer need to make a countertop, it is ready.
You just need to process it and, if desired, round the corners.
Note! Since initially the pallets are intended for warehouses, no one is engaged in their grinding and cleaning. Therefore, before making a table out of them, carefully sand them and remove all burrs. Irregularities and defects of the boards can be hidden with putty.
Stages of work
Step 1. Most of the pallets are open and there is plenty of space between the boards. distance, due to which to use the surface of the pallet as countertop not too convenient. There are two ways to solve this problem: either boards appropriate size and to fix with their screws between the boards of the pallet, or install a sheet on top plywood or chipboard.
Step 2 As for ordinary table, table legs from pallets can be made from timber or boards. The best thing fasten them with thick enough and strong pallet beam with nails, screws or furniture bolts.
To prevent the legs from loosening, connect them to each other with crossbars.
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