To avoid unnecessary costs and technological errors that could lead to partial or complete overhaul do-it-yourself systems, the calculation of a water-heated floor is made in advance, before laying. The following inputs are required:
- The materials from which the housing is built;
- Availability of other sources of heating;
- Room area;
- The presence of external insulation and the quality of the glazing;
- Regional location of the house.
You also need to determine what maximum air temperature in the room is required for the comfort of residents. On average, it is recommended to design the contour of the water floor at the rate of 30-33 ° C. However, such high performance during operation may not be necessary, a person feels as comfortable as possible at temperatures up to 25 degrees.
In the case when additional heat sources are used in the house (air conditioning, central or heating system etc.), the calculation of the warm floor can be oriented to the average maximum values of 25-28 ° C.
Advice! It is strongly not recommended to connect warm water floors with your own hands directly through central system heating. It is advisable to use a heat exchanger. Perfect option– fully autonomous heating and connection of underfloor heating through a collector to the boiler.
The efficiency of the system directly depends on the material of the pipes through which the coolant will move. 3 types are used:
- Copper;
- Polyethylene or cross-linked polypropylene;
- Metal-plastic.
Copper pipes have maximum heat transfer, but a rather high cost. Polyethylene and polypropylene pipes have low thermal conductivity, but are relatively cheap. The best option in the ratio of price and quality - metal-plastic pipes. They have a low heat transfer consumption and an acceptable price.
Experienced specialists primarily take into account the following parameters:
- Determining the value of the desired t in the room.
- Correctly calculate the heat loss of the house. To do this, you can use calculator programs or invite a specialist, but it is also possible to make an approximate calculation of heat losses yourself. An easy way to calculate a warm water floor and heat loss in a room is the average value of heat loss in a room - 100 W per 1 sq. meter, taking into account the ceiling height of not more than 3 meters and the absence of adjacent unheated premises. For corner rooms and those in which there are two or more windows - heat losses are calculated based on the value of 150 W per 1 sq. meter.
- Calculation of how much heat loss of the circuit will be for each m2 of the area heated by the water system.
- Determination of heat consumption per m2, based on decorative material coatings (for example, ceramics have a higher heat transfer than laminate).
- Calculation of surface temperature taking into account heat loss, heat transfer, desired temperature.
On average, the required power for every 10 m2 of paving area should be about 1.5 kW. In this case, point 4 in the above list must be taken into account. If the house is well insulated, the windows quality profile, then 20% of the power can be allocated for heat transfer.
Accordingly, with a room area of 20 m2, the calculation will take place according to the following formula: Q = q * x * S.
3kW*1.2=3.6kW, where
Q is the required heating power,
q \u003d 1.5 kW \u003d 0.15 kW is a constant for every 10m2,
x = 1.2 is the average heat loss coefficient,
S is the area of the room.
Before starting the installation of the system with your own hands, it is recommended to draw up a plan, accurately indicate the distance between the walls and the presence of other heat sources in the house. This will allow you to accurately calculate the power of the water floor. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room does not allow the use of one circuit, then it is correct to plan the system, taking into account the installation of the collector. In addition, you will need to mount a cabinet for the device with your own hands and determine its location, distance to walls, etc.
How many meters is the optimal length of the circuit
H2_2Often there is information that maximum length one circuit - 120 m. This is not entirely true, since the parameter directly depends on the diameter of the pipe:
- 16 mm - max L 90 meter.
- 17 mm - max L 100 meter.
- 20 mm - max L 120 meter.
Accordingly, the larger the diameter of the pipeline, the lower the hydraulic resistance and pressure. And that means a longer contour. However experienced craftsmen recommend not to "chase" the maximum length and choose pipes D 16 mm.
You also need to take into account that thick pipes D 20 mm are problematic to bend, respectively, the laying loops will be more than the recommended parameter. And this means a low level of system efficiency, because. the distance between the turns will be large, in any case, you will have to make a square contour of the cochlea.
If one circuit is not enough for heating large room, then it is better to mount a double-circuit floor with your own hands. In this case, it is strongly recommended to make the same length of the contours so that the heating of the surface area is uniform. But if the difference in size still cannot be avoided, an error of 10 meters is allowed. The distance between the contours is equal to the recommended step.
Hydraulic pitch between coils
The uniformity of surface heating depends on the pitch of the coil. Usually 2 types of pipe laying are used: snake or snail.
The snake is preferably done in rooms with minimal heat loss and small area. For example, in a bathroom or corridor (since they are located inside a private house or apartment without contact with the outside environment). Optimal step snake loops - 15-20 cm. With this type of laying, pressure losses are approximately 2500 Pa.
Snail loops are used in spacious rooms Oh. This method saves the length of the circuit and makes it possible to evenly heat the room, both in the middle and closer to the outer walls. The loop pitch is recommended within 15-30 cm. Experts say that the ideal step distance is 15 cm. The pressure loss in the cochlea is 1600 Pa. Accordingly, this do-it-yourself installation option is more profitable in terms of system power efficiency (you can cover a smaller usable area). Conclusion: the snail is more efficient, the pressure drops less in it, respectively, the efficiency is higher.
The general rule for both schemes is that closer to the walls, the step should be reduced to 10 cm. Accordingly, from the middle of the room, the contour loops are gradually compacted. Minimum distance laying up outer wall 10-15 cm.
Another important point- do not lay the pipe on top of the seams concrete slabs. It is necessary to draw up a diagram in such a way that the same location of the loop between the joints of the plate on both sides is observed. For do-it-yourself installation, you can draw a diagram in advance on a rough screed with chalk.
How many degrees are allowed for temperature changes
System design, in addition to heat and pressure losses, implies temperature differences. The maximum difference is 10 degrees. But it is recommended to focus on 5 ° C for uniform operation of the system. If the desired comfort temperature of the floor surface is 30 °C, then the direct pipeline should supply about 35 °C.
Pressure and temperature, as well as their losses, are checked during pressure testing (checking the system before finishing pouring finishing screed). If the design is done correctly, then the specified parameters will be accurate with an error of no more than 3-5%. The higher the difference t, the higher the power consumption of the floor.
How much should be the maximum length of a water-heated floor is determined by many parameters. It is worth looking into this issue in more detail.
Properly installed underfloor heating home comfort. When arranging it in an apartment, at home, it is important to exact calculation all materials, including pipes, the location of the main components, the power of the devices.
Features of a warm water floor
The principle of operation of a water-heated floor is to create a system of pipes through which hot water. This system resembles a heating system. But on the floor, the pipeline is installed in a cement screed. Dry mounting possible.
Such a floor is recommended to arrange in private homes. In high-rise buildings where central heating works, connecting to a common pipeline is fraught with problems with heating neighbors. They can lower the temperature of the water in the radiators. This will make the rooms colder.
Underfloor heating with water heating consists of the following elements:
- pipe system;
- boiler (gas or electric);
- circulation pump;
- automatic system for controlling the temperature of liquid in pipes.
In factory systems, there are additional components that increase the efficiency of the water floor.
The main element of the device is the pipeline. Now plastic, metal-plastic products 16-20 mm in diameter are used. They bend perfectly, which allows you to create contours of different shapes. The most popular are snake, spiral. They are easy to install, you can arrange them yourself.
How is the calculation of the length of coolants
The calculation of the length of the pipeline is based on the combination of different parameters:
- room size;
- required air temperature;
- temperature at the inlet and outlet;
- the location of the pipes, the distance between them;
- type of floor finish;
- the thickness of the screed under the system and above it;
- supply line length.
In some cases, additional indicators are required for calculation. The most important is the location of the coolants in the screed.
Exist general rules, which are guided by masters and amateurs.
- The distance from the wall to the outer contour of the pipes is 20-30 cm.
- The gap between the pipes is 30 cm (the diameter of the coolant itself is taken into account - 3 mm).
- The distance from the end of the pipe to the collector is approximately 40 cm.
Including these indicators, the maximum length of the water floor contour is calculated.
Temperature indicators
The temperature regime in the coolant affects the size of the pipeline. To make it comfortable to move on the floor, the water must be heated to a maximum of 60 degrees. The optimal heating of the surface itself depends on the purpose of the room:
- residential - 29 degrees;
- through passage - 35 0;
- workers - 33 0 .
Attention! Cement strainer and flooring absorb some of the heat.
To control and regulate this indicator, sensors are installed. There are usually 2 of them: at the entrance and exit from the system. The temperature difference on these devices is no more than 5 degrees.
During operation of the underfloor heating system, water circulates through pipes. Passing along the entire circuit, it cools. The total length of the pipe affects the speed of this process.
Collector
The collector is the main element of the floor heating system, which serves as its beginning and end. These devices have 2 modifications: internal (mounted in the floor) and external (installed indoors on the wall). When calculating the length of the contour of a water-heated floor, the supply of heat carriers to this device is taken into account.
Amount of water
To create a water-heated floor, the amount of liquid consumed is a priority indicator. The lack of it will lead to rapid cooling of the system and the surface. The option for calculating the consumed water can be as follows:
- 20 square meters - the area of the room;
- 27 cm - the distance between the pipes;
- 15 pipes - the number of basic parts to create a snake;
- 40 cm - the distance from the pipe to the collector.
Taking into account these indicators, the maximum length of the circuit will be 51 meters. it overall dimensions all the details.
Attention! The length of the carriers of the warm water floor is at least 40 m, maximum 100 m.
If the dimensions of the room are such that the maximum length of the pipes exceeds 100 m, it is better not to install the water circuit. Its effectiveness will be low. 70 m are considered optimal. If it is necessary to install a warm floor on an area exceeding 100 m, it is worth creating 2 approximately identical contours. For example, the first is 62.5 m, the second is 77.5.
For a pipeline of 51 m, 17.5 liters of water will be required. This amount of liquid must be present in the system. A pump is used to replenish it. It makes the water circulate, contributes to the compensation of losses from natural evaporation.
The device of a water heated floor in the house
The heat carrier in the floor is mounted in the form of a single or double snake, spiral. The choice of the location of the contour depends total length pipes. The ideal option is the coils of the same size. However, in practice, creating uniform loops is difficult and impractical.
When the floor is made throughout the house, the parameters of the premises are taken into account. In the bathroom, bathroom, hallway, which occupy a smaller area compared to the living room, bedroom or other rooms, it is difficult to create long coils. They do not require many pipes to heat them. Their length can be limited to a few meters.
Attention! The tile in the bathroom absorbs some of the heat, cools quickly. To heat it, a sufficient amount of hot liquid is required.
Some diligent hosts when installing a water circuit, these premises are bypassed. This saves materials, labor and time. In small rooms, it is more difficult to install a warm floor than in spacious ones.
If the system bypasses such cubbyholes, it is important to correctly calculate the maximum pressure parameters in the system. To do this, use a balancing valve. It is designed to equalize the pressure loss in different circuits.
Water floor installation technology
To gain experience in installing a water-heated floor, you should try to make it on a small surface area. The pipe system is mounted in two ways: cold on a wooden (polystyrene) base and wet in a screed.
The dry method is as follows:
- on the wood flooring or polystyrene mats lay metal strips in which channels are created along the width of the pipes;
- pipes are inserted into recesses;
- then put a layer of plywood (OSB, GVL, etc.);
- then lay the flooring.
A more complex, time-consuming, but budgetary method is a “wet” cement screed. This is a multi-layer construction. It is based on concrete surface and consists of several levels:
- – thermal insulation;
- - fixing elements (mesh, tapes);
- – tubular coolants;
- – cement-sand mortar- coupler;
- - flooring.
AT apartment buildings in order to protect the neighbors from the bay from below, they put first waterproofing material. It is advisable to put a reinforcing mesh on the pipes themselves in order to reduce the mechanical load. Along the perimeter of the room and between the contours are fixed damper tape. It is the boundary between the wall and the floor, different fragments of the warm floor.
Both methods have their pros and cons. Which one is preferable depends on individual features premises, the preferences of the owners, the possibilities of attracting craftsmen or the need for a do-it-yourself installation.
When installing a pipeline in a screed, the maximum length of the circuit may be greater. Concrete - cold material. To heat it up, you need heat water in the system. It cools down faster than a tree or artificial products. When installing a warm floor, it is important to provide for all the nuances, including installation technology.
Installing a water floor heating system is a time-consuming, troublesome task. It requires precise calculation and extremely careful attitude to installation. Differences in the heights of the base, errors in the placement of loops, turns, defects in the main parts will lead to inefficient operation of the entire heating element. The maximum length of a water heated floor is determined individually for each house. In order not to make a miscalculation, it is worth contacting specialists. A small cost of consulting a professional will save you from errors in the operation of the facility and ensure the necessary conditions comfort.
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Underfloor heating is one of the most efficient and cost-effective ways of space heating. Judging from the standpoint of operating costs, the water "warm floor" looks preferable, especially if the house already has a water heating system. Therefore, despite the rather high complexity of installation and debugging of water heating, it is often chosen.
Work on a water "warm floor" begins with its design and calculations. And one of the most important parameters will be the length of the pipes in the laid circuit. The point here is not only, and not so much in the cost of material - it is important to ensure that the length of the circuit does not exceed the permissible maximum values, otherwise the performance and efficiency of the system is not guaranteed. To help with the necessary calculations, the calculator for calculating the length of the contour of a water-heated floor, located below, will be able to help.
A few necessary explanations for working with the calculator are given below it.
Today, the "warm floor" system is very popular among the owners of apartments and private houses. The vast majority of those who have autonomous heating, or have already done the installation similar design in his home, or thinking about it. They are especially relevant in homes where there are small children who crawl and can freeze without adequate heating. These designs are much more economical than other heating systems. In addition, they interact better with the human body, since, unlike the electric version, they do not create magnetic fluxes. Among them positive qualities fire safety and high efficiency. In this case, the heated air is evenly distributed throughout the space of the room.
The principle is that lines are laid under the coating, through which the coolant circulates - as a rule, water, heating the floor surface and the room. This method copes with heating very effectively, provided that the design is correctly calculated and if its installation is done correctly.
System mounting options
There are two principles by which the installation of a warm water floor can be carried out - flooring and concrete. In both options, a heater is necessarily used under the contour of the water floor - this is necessary so that all the heat goes up and heats the home. If the heater is not used, the space below will also be heated, which is completely unacceptable, since it reduces the heating effect. As a heater, it is customary to use penoplex or penofol. Penoplex has excellent heat-insulating properties, repels moisture and does not lose its properties during humid environment. It has good resistance to compressive loads, is easy to use and inexpensive. Penofol also has a foil layer, which serves as a reflector of thermal radiation inside the apartment.
The first option is that we put the contour on a flooring made of insulation - polystyrene foam, penofol or another suitable material. We cover the contour on top with a tree or other coating. The step by step process is as follows:
- We carry out a thin rough screed;
- We lay sheets of insulation with grooves for the highway;
- We lay the line and perform pressure testing;
- We cover the top with a substrate made of foamed polyethylene or polystyrene;
- We put on top top coat laminate or other material with good thermal conductivity.
The second option looks like this:
- We carry out a thin concrete screed;
- We put a heater on the screed;
- We lay out waterproofing on the insulation, on top of which we place the contour of the warm water floor;
- At the top we fix it with a reinforcing mm and fill it with a concrete screed;
- We put the finish coat on the screed.
The temperature is controlled by two thermometers- one shows the temperature of the coolant entering the line, the other - the temperature reverse flow. If the difference is between 5 and 10 degrees Celsius, then the design is working properly.
Methods for laying the contour of a warm water floor
When we carry out installation, the highway can be laid out in the following ways:
For spacious rooms with a simple geometric configuration, it is worth using the snail method. For rooms small size complex shape it is more convenient and efficient to use the snake method.
These methods can, of course, be combined with each other.
depending on the diameter of the line and the size of the room. The smaller the laying step, the better and better the housing warms up, but on the other hand, then the costs for heating the coolant, materials and installation structures increase significantly. The maximum step size can be 30 centimeters, but this value cannot be exceeded, otherwise the human foot will feel the temperature difference. There will be more heat loss near the outer walls, so the line laying step in these places should be less than in the middle.
The material for the manufacture of pipes is polypropylene or cross-linked polyethylene. If you are using polypropylene pipes, you should choose an option with fiberglass reinforcement, since polypropylene tends to expand when heated. Polyethylene pipes when heated, they behave well and they do not need reinforcement.
Water floor contour length
The length of the water circuit of the warm floor is calculated by the formula:
L=S\N*1,1, where
L - loop length,
S is the area of the heated room,
N - laying step length,
1.1 - pipe safety factor.
There is such a thing as the maximum length of the water loop - if we exceed it, loopback effect may occur. This is a situation when the coolant flow is distributed in the line in such a way that a pump of any power cannot set it in motion. The maximum loop size directly depends on the diameter of the pipe. As a rule, it is in the range from 70 to 125 meters. The material from which the pipe is made also plays a role here.
The question arises - what to do if one circuit maximum size not able to heat the room? The answer is simple - we are designing a double-circuit floor.
Installation of a system where a two-circuit design option is used is no different from where one circuit is used. If the two-circuit variant does not cope with the task, we add required amount loops, as much as possible to connect to a home-made manifold for underfloor heating made of polypropylene.
The question arises - how much one circuit in size can differ from another in a design where there are more than one. In theory, the installation of a warm water floor structure assumes an equal distribution of the load, and therefore it is desirable that the length of the loops be approximately the same. But this is not always possible, especially if one collector serves several rooms. For example, the size of the loop in the bathroom will be clearly smaller than in the living room. In this case, the balancing fittings equalize the load along the contours. The variation in size in such cases is allowed up to 40 percent.
Installation of a warm water heating structure is allowed only in those parts of the room where there will be no overall furniture. This is due to the excessive load on it and the fact that in these areas it is impossible to ensure proper heat transfer. This space is called usable area premises. Depending on this area, as well as on the laying step, the number of design loops depends.
- 15 cm - up to 12 m 2;
- 20 cm - up to 16 m 2;
- 25 cm - up to 20 m 2;
- 30 cm - up to 24 m 2.
Underfloor heating installation - what else you need to know
When installing a water heating system, you should know a few more important things.
- One loop should heat one room - it should not be stretched over two or more rooms.
- One pump must serve one manifold group.
- When calculating multi-storey buildings served by one collector, the coolant flow should be distributed, starting from the upper floors. In this case, the heat loss of the floor on the second floor will serve as additional heating for the premises of the first floor.
- One collector is able to serve up to 9 loops with a loop length of up to 90 m, and with a length of 60-70 m - up to 11 loops.
Conclusion
Warm water heating systems are extremely convenient and efficient in operation. It is quite possible to install them on your own. An important role is played by the correctness of calculations, accuracy and thoroughness in the performance of all work, taking into account all the features and details. After carrying out all the work, you will be able to enjoy the warmth and comfort of a well-heated room with a floor that is so pleasant to walk barefoot on.
We continue to disassemble underfloor heating design, started in the previous article, and now we will consider the main design recommendations.
What should be the surface temperature of the warm floor?
Actually, I already wrote about this in a separate article, but it will not be superfluous to repeat it. The following are maximum floor surface temperatures for rooms for different purposes:
- for residential premises and workrooms in which people mostly stand: 21 ... 27 degrees;
- for living rooms and offices: 29 degrees;
- for lobbies, hallways and corridors: 30 degrees;
- for baths, pools: 33 degrees
- for rooms in which vigorous activity takes place: 17 degrees
- in rooms with limited stay of people ( industrial premises) a maximum floor temperature of 37 degrees is allowed.
In the edge zones up to 35 degrees.
What is the temperature of the coolant in the water floor heating system?
The supply water temperature should be between 40 and 55 degrees. The maximum temperature of the coolant at the inlet to the water floor heating system should not exceed +60 degrees.
The temperature difference of the coolant between the supply and return pipeline optimal 5 ... 15 degrees. Less than five degrees is not recommended due to the greatly increasing coolant flow through the circuit, which leads to large pressure losses. More than fifteen degrees is not recommended due to a noticeable temperature drop on the surface of the floor itself (in this case, under the windows we can have 27 degrees, at the end of the circuit 22 degrees, such a large difference is not comfortable). The optimum temperature drop is 10 degrees. Recommended temperatures at the entrance / exit of the loops: 55/45 degrees, 50/40 degrees, 45/35 degrees, 40/30 degrees.
If a heat source is used as a heat source pumping unit(although this is a rarity), it is advisable to take the temperature of the supply coolant to the heating circuit at 40 degrees. In all other cases, any other supply temperature within the above range can be used.
What should be the length of the water heating pipes?
The maximum length of one circuit (loop) depends on the diameter of the pipes used:
- with a diameter of 16 mm - 70 ... 90 meters;
- with a diameter of 17 mm - 90 ... 100 m;
- with a diameter of 20 mm - 120 m.
The difference in lengths is explained by the different hydraulic resistance and thermal load of the pipes different diameters. Well, it’s clear: the thicker the pipe, the less hydraulic resistance (resistance to the flow of liquid) in it.
Usually one circuit heats one room. But if the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is large, the length of the circuit is greater than the optimal one, then it is better to make two circuits per room than to lay a pipe that is too long.
If, when designing and calculating, we take one pipe diameter and then mount another, then the hydraulics of the system will be different. So it is better and correct to allow all experiments at the design and calculation stage, compare the results, choose the best one and follow it.
If two or more circuits are laid in the room, it is necessary to strive for their lengths to be the same (the entire pipe is considered to be the length of the circuit, starting from the collector, and not just that part of it that is directly in the heated room itself).
Of course, in practice, it is impossible to adjust the length perfectly, but you need to strive for this and the difference should be no more than 10 m!
The rooms in the house are known to have different area. To lay as many meters of pipe in a smaller room as in a larger one, you need to take a smaller step between the turns.
If the room is small and the heat loss from it is not large (toilet, hallway), then you can combine the circuits, heat from the return pipe of the adjacent circuit.
With what step to lay out the pipes of the warm floor?
The step (distance between adjacent pipe turns) of pipe laying is from 15 to 30 cm (15, 20, 25, 30 cm - that is, not 21; 22.4; 27, etc., but in increments of 5 cm in the specified range 15-30 cm). Allowed pipe laying step 30, 35, 40, 45 cm large rooms(gyms, etc.). And 10 cm near large windows, external walls (in the so-called edge zones).
The pipe layout step is selected depending on the heat load, type of room, circuit length, coating material, etc.:
- edge zones - 100 ... 150 mm (standard number of rows in the edge zone - 6);
- central zones 200…300 mm;
- bathrooms, bathrooms, shower rooms, etc. are completely laid in steps of 100 ... 150 mm. The same step may not work because of the need to bypass the plumbing and because of the tightness in the room;
- in rooms where the floor will be covered with a material with good thermal conductivity ( tile, marble, porcelain stoneware) pipe laying step - 200 mm.
Attention! Above are the recommended numbers. In practice, it is often impossible to bend a metal-plastic pipe with a small radius without the danger of breaking it (when laying with a snake). Therefore, when laying with a snake, a step of 150 ... 200 mm is better and optimal. And in general, take note for yourself: despite any recommendations and smart justifications, make a pipe step in the edge zones of 100 mm, and in the remaining 150 mm, and you will never lose.
A step of 300 mm will not give uniform heating of the floor at all (again, when laying with a snake).
How to choose the diameter of pipes for underfloor heating systems?
In residential buildings or apartments with an area ranging from 50 m2 to infinity, a pipe with a diameter of 16 mm is used. You don't need more!
Even in well-insulated houses, it is desirable that the pipe pitch does not exceed 150, maximum 200 mm - and the 16th pipe makes it possible to meet all these conditions. In general, pipes of larger diameter are not needed for a private house: they are optimal in terms of the ratio "ease of installation - price - volume of coolant".
Another pipe commonly used is 18mm. However, one must understand that a thicker pipe is an extra cost, and not only for the pipe, but also for fittings and everything else.
Sometimes they put a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm, not taking into account the characteristics. And in such a pipe, the amount of water is already significantly larger, which is why more energy is required for heating. Yes, and it is difficult to mount such a pipe: bending it for laying with a snake and a step of 150 mm is unrealistic, and a larger step will not give heat in the house, and the cost of the coolant will be indecently decent. Such a pipe can be laid in some public buildings, With high ceilings with a large number of people present at the same time. There will be a thick screed! For a pipe of 16 mm, the thickness of the screed is sufficient 50 mm from the top of the pipe. Allowed up to 80 mm.
What should be the diameter of the pipes from the boiler to the collector?
The task is to connect one, two or more underfloor heating collectors.
Almost every underfloor heating collector has a 1 inch (25 mm) thread for connecting to the main - it doesn’t matter if it is internal or external.
There are manifolds with an inch and a quarter thread, but this is for large industrial or public institutions where a larger diameter pipe will be used, so you do NOT need to take such manifolds for a private house.
It does not make sense to initially narrow or “broaden” the diameters of the main pipes (i.e., supplying the coolant from the boiler), but it makes sense to take the same diameter as the collector inlet, i.e. 1 inch. For polypropylene pipe this is a diameter of 32 mm (this is the outer one, and the inner one is just 25 mm). For metal-plastic pipe it is 26mm in diameter. For copper - 28 mm. These are the standard options for using pipes. But if there are doubts about the number of circuits, then you can increase the diameter of the main pipes by one size (40, 32 and 32 mm for polypropylene, metal-plastic and copper pipes respectively; an adapter is required to go 1 inch).
Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) have the same dimensions as metal-plastic pipes in terms of wall thickness and diameters.
Other data for the design of underfloor heating
It is not advisable to connect the concrete and deck system to the same mixing unit (and manifold).
One circuit should be for one room (in the sense, you don’t need to be weird by unfolding the loop, filling in the screed, and then dividing the room with a partition).
It is desirable to place the collector in the middle of the house. If it doesn’t work out, then the problem with the difference in the lengths of the loops is solved by installing flow meters on the manifold: with their help, the uniform flow of the coolant through the loops of different lengths is regulated.
If the circuits have a length of 90 m (or even more), then a maximum of nine circuits can be "clung" to one collector. With loop lengths of 60 ... 80 m, up to 11 circuits can be mounted on one collector.
It is not necessary to “pressure” two (or more) collectors with one pump. It is correct to install separate pumps for each manifold group.
Mixing modules (mixing units) are not all suitable for any length of pipes of underfloor heating loops, so check when buying.
For an accurate calculation, it is necessary to take into account not only heat losses, but also the possible heat influx into the premises - for example, from operating equipment, household appliances, etc. (it hardly makes sense to fool around when calculating the heating of a private house), heat inflow through the ceiling - if There is also underfloor heating in the upper room. The calculation of multi-storey buildings must be carried out, starting from the premises of the upper floor to the lower ones. Because heat losses through the floor of the second floor are a useful heat gain for the premises of the first floor.
The thickness of the insulation on the first and ground floor at least 50 mm (in reality, it depends on climate zone: what is good for the south, it does not roll at all in the north), on other floors - at least 30 mm. A logical question: why insulate the ceiling between the first and second floors, let the heat from the warm floor on the second floor also warm the first floor? Answer: if the ceiling is concrete, then the insulation is placed so as not to heat the ceiling itself, because it is very costly both in terms of money and time.
The maximum head loss in the circuit is 15 kPa (optimally 13 kPa). If the circuit has a head loss of more than 15 kPa, it is necessary to reduce the coolant flow or divide the floor area in the room into several circuits. What this means, we will consider in one of the following articles, when we perform calculations on a specific example.
Minimum flow coolant in one circuit is at least 27-30 liters per hour. Otherwise, the contours must be combined. Why such a limitation? At a lower flow rate, the coolant, not having time to go through the entire circuit, but it has time to cool down - the floor will be cold! The minimum flow rate of the coolant on each circuit can be set on the control valve (flow meter) installed on the manifold.
The above requirements for underfloor heating design will need to be taken into account when performing underfloor heating calculations, when we do this in a special program. So, if these terms mean nothing to you yet, don't worry, in due time everything will fall into place. However, I recommend that you make a note for yourself somewhere in order to return to the information in this article when calculating.
underfloor heating design
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