Do-it-yourself wooden flooring is quite possible, if you first study the instructions for this work. Boardwalk has always been more popular than floors made from other materials, as it differs from them in its natural warmth, environmental friendliness and the ability to create a specific, especially healthy microclimate in residential premises.
Most often, coniferous wood is selected for flooring in the house. Mostly larch is used, which shows particular resistance to both temperature extremes and high humidity. Due to the natural antiseptic qualities of this tree, destructive fungal formations do not appear on it, which means that the processes of decay and destruction are excluded.
Gender Requirements
Wooden flooring must meet certain requirements, without which the floors will not last long and will not be comfortable for residents. These criteria can be safely attributed to:
- Effective soundproofing and thermal insulation of rooms.
- Reliability and durability of a wooden covering.
- Wear resistance, and therefore - the durability of the floor.
- Moisture resistance and hygiene - cleaning the floor should not cause any particular difficulties.
- The aesthetics of wooden flooring - it should become a decoration of the room.
- Ease of installation work.
To achieve all the mentioned qualities of a wooden floor, you need to choose the right material for its installation.
Material selection criteria
In order for the floors to serve for a long time without drying out the boards and their deformation, when choosing wood, you need to pay attention to the following material parameters:
- grade. For a finish coating, it is better to choose the highest or first grade of the board, and for rough flooring, grade 2 ÷ 3 is usually bought. If the finished floor is covered with paint, then second-rate material is quite suitable for it.
The quality of the wood will directly depend on the grade of wood. Even when purchasing the highest grade material, it is necessary to pay attention to the presence of possible defects, such as chips, cracks and knots - they must either be completely absent, or be in a minimal amount.
- It is very important to pay attention to the drying of wood. It must have a certain humidity, otherwise, over the years, gaps will appear between the boards, and the floorboards themselves will become deformed. Humidity for finishing boards cannot exceed 12%, and for roughing - not more than 17%.
- The length of the bars and boards should ideally correspond to the length and width of the room where the floor will be laid.
- The standard thickness of floorboards is 120×25mm and 100×25mm. This parameter is selected depending on the step of laying the lag on which the boards will be fixed. According to the existing technology, these distances should be selected in accordance with the data given in the table:
| Step between lags in mm | Floorboard thickness in mm |
|---|---|
| 300 | 20 |
| 400 | 24 |
| 500 | 30 |
| 600 | 35 |
| 700 | 40 |
| 800 | 45 |
| 900 | 50 |
| 1000 | 55 |
When buying any building material, after the necessary calculations have been made, it is necessary to add 15% in reserve to this amount - this rule has been verified by experienced builders, therefore it is recommended to follow it.
Wood preparation
Before the process of installing the lag and flooring of the floorboards, they must be prepared. Usually, flooring material is sold already planed, but if burrs are detected during inspection, they must be removed with an electric planer.
Their installation is started only after the material has completely dried.
The choice of floor design
Knowing all the requirements that apply to the coating material, you need to decide on the design of the floor, since for each specific case a different option is suitable, depending on the conditions in which the installation will take place.
There are several main types of wooden floor designs:
- Floors on logs laid on floor beams. In this case, plywood or boards can be used for the finishing floor.
- "Floating" construction - boards laid on a concrete base, but not attached to it .
- Coating fixed on logs laid on the ground.
These methods of arranging a wooden floor have become the most popular, as they give creative freedom to the master, who can bring his own adjustments to the design. But, one way or another, for each room it is necessary to choose the only option that suits it to a greater extent.
Floor beam system
- Logs, as the basis for the floor, can be fixed to floor beams, which, in turn, are laid on a columnar or strip foundation. This is permissible if the room where the floor is arranged has a width of no more than 2.5 ÷ 3 m.
- To create an air gap, floor beams are often raised above the ground to a certain height, laying them on top waterproofed foundation surface. They can be rigidly fixed to it or simply securely laid on top. The second option is chosen if the foundation has not yet had time to shrink, and when it does, it will not pull the floor system along with it, which will certainly begin to deform from such an impact.
- With a large width of the room (more than 3 meters), columns can be additionally installed between the walls, which will create rigidity for the floor system. Waterproofing is necessarily laid on all supporting structures under the beams of the base of the floor, so that the wooden parts serve as long as possible.
What should be the thickness of the lag and floor beams? This mainly depends on the width of the free span (distance between adjacent support points). Usually proceed from the following indicators (see table):
- After the floor beams are installed, the logs need to be fixed on them. The distance between them, as already mentioned, is calculated according to the thickness of the selected floorboards.
- When arranging such a “floating” floor structure, the logs, and then the boards, should be located at a distance of at least 12 ÷ 15 mm from the walls, that is, be independent of them. A material is laid in the opening between the walls and the floor system, which will not allow cold air to enter the room, allow the wood to “breathe”, and expand freely when temperature and humidity changes.
- When laying logs consisting of two separate sections, their overlapping by 400 ÷ 500 mm should be on the support posts or on the beam. The logs should be aligned with the building level, if necessary, to achieve an ideal horizontal, small pieces of wood are placed under the logs.
- After the logs are set and fixed, it is recommended to arrange a subfloor, for which low quality boards are quite suitable. To install them, cranial bars 30 × 50 mm in size are screwed on the entire length of the lag from below.
- The boards of the subfloor are not always fixed to the cranial bars, usually they are simply laid tightly to each other. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the subfloor, fixing it with staples to the logs and boards.
- Between the lags, the vapor barrier is tightly laid - it can be mineral wool in mats or rolls, as well as dry filling from expanded clay or slag.
- Another layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation. Its individual sheets are glued together with adhesive tape, and then the film is attached to the logs with staples.
- The top layer of vapor barrier is necessary so that dust and particles of insulation material cannot enter the living quarters. On top of this entire floor system, floorboards or thick plywood will then be laid.
Prices for various types of timber
Logs fixed to the concrete pavement
Often, to create a layer for the floor in apartments, a wooden floor on logs is also arranged on a concrete base. Here, the whole difficulty lies in leveling the lag on the surface, especially if it is planned to raise the wooden covering a few centimeters above the concrete slab.
If the apartment is located above the first floor, then most often the logs are laid out, leveled, and then fixed to the concrete base using anchors.
Both in the first and in the second version, the lags are drilled through. To raise the log above the base, use different metal and plastic elements. In this case, the photo shows the studs. They allow you to raise and lower the logs on one side or the other, aligning them in level. The extra piece of the hairpin, after removing the lag to the desired height, is cut off with a grinder.
In each of the options, a heater can be laid on the concrete between the lags, which will add thermal insulation to the coating, and also help to drown out the noise, both from the lower apartment and from the rooms where the logs are installed under the wooden floor. Mineral wool, polystyrene or can be used as an insulating material.
Flooring on concrete floor
Sometimes a wooden floor is laid on a concrete floor without the use of a log. As a covering, floorboards or plywood are used. It is advisable to lay a thin insulating material under such a floor - most often foamed polyethylene is used for this, but it is better to choose one that has a foil coating.
Separate sheets of the substrate material are fastened together with adhesive tape to create a solid coating - it will make the floor warmer and drown out noise. If plywood is used for flooring, you need to remember that it is necessary to lay a decorative coating on top of it. Floors made of sufficiently thick boards will look respectable if they are varnished, waxed or of high quality paint.
Floor board installation
Having chosen the boards of the required thickness, it is important to determine the correct direction of their laying on the floor. As many years of experience show, the best option for laying boards is in the direction of natural light, that is, from the window. Therefore, planning the laying of the board should begin with marking and fixing the lag.
Floorboards have different types of connection:
1. Connection using an insert-liner in the grooves of two boards.
2. Groove-thorn connection in the presence of tongue-and-groove boards.
3. Connection "in a quarter".
The last type of connection is the easiest to install, so floorboards with such an attachment are most often used. In addition, the "quarter" connection creates a single coating with almost imperceptible gaps between the boards, so it optimally retains heat in the room.
Boards can be fixed to two ways of fastening:
- Nails or self-tapping screws can be driven into the groove located on the side of the board, at an angle of about 45 degrees, with the cap recessed into the wood. Some craftsmen prefer to do the opposite, driving the screws at an angle into the edge of the spike.
- In the second option, nails or self-tapping screws are driven in or screwed into the front plane of the board.
- Starting to install floorboards, it is necessary to step back from the wall 12 ÷ 15 mm. Later, a strip of insulation is laid in this gap, and closed with an installed plinth. It is necessary for the tree to expand with changes in humidity and air temperature.
- The board is attached to the joists with nails 80 ÷ 120 mm or self-tapping screws 70 ÷ 100 mm. Hats are driven under zatay”, later they are sealed with putty matched to the color of the wood.
- If insufficiently seasoned wood is used, then the laid floor requires a drying period that lasts 6 ÷ 8 months. During this time, the coating will shrink and shrink, gaps will increase between the boards, and therefore it will be necessary to carry out the process of relaying it. In this regard, during the initial laying of the flooring, all the floorboards are not completely nailed to the joists, but only the fifth - seventh board is attached. After drying the boards, they must be shifted, pressed as tightly as possible to each other and nailed to the logs.
- If boards with a tenon-groove connection are chosen, for a tighter connection, a mallet is used, with which, through the bar, the spikes are driven into the grooves. Often, special clamps are used for this master, especially in cases where, due to the slight curvature of the boards, the installation goes with smearing the grooves and spikes with carpentry glue.
- For a tight connection of the last board, installed against the wall, temporary wooden wedges are used, they are driven in between the wall and the board.
- The gap between the boards should not be wider than 1 mm. If the board is not installed in the groove to the end, then, most likely, a burr or some kind of roughness remains on the canvas, and this flaw must be removed, the spike must be adjusted to the groove.
Find out and also review the causes of squeaking and how to fix it, from our new article.
Video: flooring with clamps
flooring prices
Floor coverings
Floor surface treatment after final laying
After the floor has been sorted out and secured, it may be necessary to scrape its surface. This process is carried out if, during the drying of the board, it led a little, and the surface became uneven.
The starting varnish helps to reveal insufficiently smooth areas on the surface of the boards, and therefore, after it dries, it is easier to find roughness and carry out their additional sanding.
After grinding, skirting boards are installed, which will well hide the gaps between the wall and the floor boards. If, as a result of this operation, gaps remain between the floor and the plinth, then they are sealed with putty to match the color of the wood.
Now that the floor is prepared in this way, you can proceed to the final coating of the surface with wax, oil, varnish or paint.
The plank flooring is covered with a finishing composition not only to give it aesthetics and respectability, but also to protect it, which means maximum long-term operation.
Oil treatment
If the boards have a beautiful pronounced textured pattern, then special oil is often used to cover it. It makes the floors warmer, not as slippery as when coated, and also gives it antistatic properties. The oil penetrates into the structure of the wood and reliably protects it from the penetration of moisture from the outside, practically repelling it.
Wood coated with oil is less susceptible to various damages, and existing flaws become virtually invisible. The oil does not clog the pores of the wood, preserving its naturalness, allowing the material to "breathe", which creates a favorable microclimate in the living room.
Floors that are covered with oil must be protected from dust until it is completely absorbed. During operation, such a floor requires special care with special means. It is very important to remember that furniture with metal legs is not recommended to be placed on such a surface, as there is a risk of unwanted reactions, as a result of which dark spots may remain on the wood.
Oil flooring is recommended in rooms with high humidity - this is a bathroom, terrace and kitchen. Such a coating is also well suited for a hallway or corridor, since boards impregnated with such a substance are more resistant to abrasion.
There are flooring compositions that do not consist of pure oil, but with the addition of liquid wax to it, which gives the floor a matte, soft sheen. Pure oils are also applied to the surface of wood, they are well absorbed into the surface, economical in application and do not require a long wait to dry.
Floor oil can be colorless, or it can have different shades that make the wood darker or give it a special, pleasant and warm color.
The oil is applied in two or three doses. It can be rubbed or applied with a brush, and its excess is immediately erased to avoid the formation of a film on top, which will create an uneven coating.
The oil composition can be applied hot and cold in several layers. The faster the wood absorbs the oil, the more layers will need to be applied. The heated composition penetrates much faster and deeper into the pores of the tree, and such a coating lasts much longer than with a cold application method.
Waxing the floor surface
Wax is most often combined with an oil coating. So, sometimes waxing occurs with a composition that consists of natural beeswax and linseed oil. Such a coating protects the floor surfaces well from scratches and dirt, as well as from absorbing moisture, but will not protect the wood from cracking and intense mechanical stress. Wax coating gives the surface a pleasant matte sheen and a golden hue.
Wax is applied to the cleaned floor with a wide roller in several layers. The first of them must be very thin in order to be well absorbed into the surface. Next, the floor is sanded, and then it is covered with another layer of the composition and sanded again.
Wax combined with oil is an environmentally friendly topcoat and is very good for use in children's rooms and adult bedrooms. Wood that has undergone such processing has the properties to "breathe", so the floors will last a long time and create a favorable microclimate in the room.
Wood floor varnishing
- The varnish can be applied by brush, roller or trowel at room temperature, moderate humidity and without drafts.
- On the cleaned surface, the first layer is applied nitrolac, which will serve as a kind of primer for the finishing layers of the composition. It is applied in a thin layer along the textured wood pattern. If necessary, the primer can be applied in two layers.
- After the primer dries, the surface is well sanded with sandpaper. After that, the floor is washed with soapy water, thoroughly wiped and dried.
- After that, proceed to the application of finishing layers. There can be two or three of them, and each of them is dried and polished.
Applying varnish to floors is a rather complicated undertaking that requires careful selection of the composition for a particular type of wood. Therefore, if this particular method of processing a wooden floor is chosen, it is better to entrust the work to a specialist who will determine the amount of work and select the necessary materials.
The lacquer coating is quite fragile, which is easily damaged by mechanical stress, so it is undesirable to walk on thin heels or move furniture on it. In addition, varnishes are most often produced on chemical bases, which, by clogging the pores of wood, do not allow it to “breathe”.
Staining a wooden floor
Recently, paint is rarely used to cover a wooden floor, but it still happens, especially in cases where a special interior style is chosen. In addition, paint is used in cases where it is necessary to cover a not very attractive view of wood, since such a coating completely covers the floor surface. For such finishing, you can choose paints on different bases: oil, enamel, nitrocellulose, as well as acrylic, water-dispersion and latex.
Water-based paints are preferable for residential premises, as they do not contain solvents and additives harmful to the human body. They are produced in different color shades, so there is always an opportunity to choose the one that is more suitable for a particular interior.
Enamels and other paints based on chemical solvents are also used for living rooms, but after their application, the premises require long-term ventilation, as these fumes can pose a threat to human health.
Before painting the floor with water-based compounds, the boards are coated with a special primer. For the rest of the coating materials, preparation of the base is required with the help of impregnating compounds, in which drying oil usually acts as the main component.
The paint can be applied in one, two coats or, last resort, at three o'clok. It is recommended to choose the “golden mean”, since the paint, applied too thin, will quickly begin to wear out, and thick, on the contrary, peel off. Each coat of primer or paint must dry well before the next is applied.
It is described in great detail in the corresponding publication of our portal.
So, if you have the basic concepts of working with wood, as well as the necessary materials and tools, you can try to lay the floors from boards or plywood yourself. If you have any questions, you can always turn for clarification and advice to articles that will help solve any problem. And at the end of the article - another interesting video on the technology of laying a wooden floor.
Video: how to prepare and lay a wooden floor
Few will argue with the fact that the floors in the house should be not only beautiful, but also environmentally friendly, and for this you need to be able to properly lay the floorboard. Such material is becoming more and more popular, and there is nothing strange in this - the floorboard has a long service life, attractive appearance, ease of maintenance, resistance to moisture and temperature extremes. You can lay the floorboard with high quality with your own hands, if you follow certain rules, this is also available for beginners.
The floorboard can be laid in two versions: on wooden logs, and you can also glue it (you can use self-tapping screws instead of glue) to a surface that has been prepared in advance. For this you will need the following tools:
- Belt sander.
- Bolts, screws and screws.
- Screwdriver.
- A hammer.
- Roulette.
- Hacksaw.
How to lay the floorboard on the logs?
If the house has wooden floors or high ceilings, then it is recommended to use this method. But at the same time, it must be borne in mind that it is permissible to use a floorboard whose thickness is at least 30 mm.
- When laying on the ground floor of the building, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer. You can lay roofing material, you need to overlap the walls and solder the joints.
- Now you need to start installing the log, for this you can use wooden bars, the cross section of which should be 50-70 mm, they must be treated with an antiseptic. As for the step distance between the lags, it should be approximately 65-70 cm, if the width of the floorboard is not more than 35 mm.
- Laying a soundproof layer is also an important point, for this you can use expanded clay, mineral wool. In order for the effect to be greater, you can use a substrate that is made of synthetic winterizer, laminate or glassine.
- Laying floorboards should be carried out with a comb forward towards the master. The first board is fastened with self-tapping screws where there will be a plinth cover, and the fasteners that remain are screwed at an angle into the crest of the board. If the boards are short, then they are located on the logs.
- Now it's time for sanding and polishing the floor. The floor board is polished in 3 directions. After sanding is completed, the pile should be raised on the wood. As for the primer, 3 layers should be applied, but each must be sanded. It is best to use fine-grained sandpaper for this.
- The floorboard must be varnished, which has increased strength. At least 2 layers must be applied.
How is the adhesive applied?
To do this, you can use only those boards that are perfectly smooth. They must be fastened with self-tapping screws, and the holes remaining after fastening should be closed with special plugs. This method is preferably used where the ceilings are not very high.
In order for such work to be carried out at the highest level, you need to choose the right glue. If the planks are short (no more than 50 cm), then any glue is acceptable. For beech boards and exotic tree species, dispersion adhesive is not suitable.
If the boards are long, it is recommended to use an adhesive that has a two-component epoxy-polyurethane composition, which contains synthetic resins.
Whatever glue is used, it must be strong and ductile.
Boards can be laid on an existing floor, if it has the necessary stability, the floor is first polished with a grinder. It is permissible to use a special moisture-proof film, which is made of polyethylene foam. It is used in cases where the moisture-resistant and heat-insulating qualities of the floor are insufficient. And you can also first lay the floor with plywood, the sheets of which should not exceed a thickness of 12 mm, it should be carefully sanded.
If the boards are placed on a concrete base, then you need to take care of the waterproofing layer. To do this, it is permissible to use a primer mastic or foamed polyethylene, the mastic must be applied with a roller. It happens that the mastic is characterized by increased density, then you need to use a solvent. If there is a plywood base, then it is necessary to opt for plywood, which has a thickness of at least 18 mm. Plywood sheets must be fixed to concrete with screws or dowels, the sheets are laid diagonally, after which they are polished with a belt sander.
Features of laying the floorboard
Before laying, the boards should be removed from the packaging and left for some time where the work process will be carried out. It is necessary that the boards lie there for at least 10-14 days. Thus, you can not be afraid that the floor will be deformed.
Such boards should be attached to the base of the floor with self-tapping screws, their hats should sink into the grooves by a couple of millimeters. As for the holes for fasteners, they should be taken care of in advance. It must be taken into account that even if the floorboard is laid on a flat base, there is no moisture-proof film and parquet glue is used, then reinforcement with self-tapping screws is still necessary. The boards must necessarily adjoin each other with maximum density, for this it is necessary to use wedges , between them and the walls it is necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm.
Any construction or major repairs in the room provide for the arrangement of the floor. Despite the large range of products that can be used for this, in most cases (for residential buildings) owners prefer wood as a “finishing” coating. A lot has been written about its positive qualities, and first of all, environmental friendliness.
The main type of products intended for finishing floors was and remains a board. It is much easier to work with it, so you can carry out all the activities (with some skill and observance of the installation rules) on your own. This allows you to significantly save money, since you do not have to pay hired specialists.
Laying the board with your own hands, in our opinion, has another significant "plus" that many do not take into account. Let's look at this problem from the point of view of further exploitation. Wood gradually “gets rid” of moisture (and it is present in any wooden blank, even the most dried one), or, as they say in such cases, the material “shrinks”. Changing the geometry of the boards leads to the formation of cracks, a creak appears, the floorboards begin to “rise”. You can list all the possible surprises for a long time.
But the caveat is that the process of "shrinkage" can sometimes take quite a lot of time. It depends on local conditions (temperature and humidity in the room, ventilation, the specifics of the surface treatment of floors and a number of other points), as well as on the features of operation (for example, the degree of loading). By the way, a possible marriage in some workpiece, which was invisible during installation, can also appear after some time. From this, unfortunately, no one is immune.
Therefore, there is no guarantee that in six months or a year the boards will not “lead”. To whom then to make claims and how to legally competently argue them? Most likely, you will have to invite a specialist again (naturally, already another, “more competent”), which means you have to pay again.
But if the owner did everything himself, from beginning to end, with knowledge of the matter, then he will determine and eliminate the cause of any “malfunction” that has arisen quite quickly, without outside help, at any time suitable for this. We dwelled on this issue in such detail so that all the “pitfalls” that accompany the work of laying floorboards become “understandable”. Therefore, strict implementation of all recommendations is mandatory. Do not neglect the conduct of one or another, at first glance, even an insignificant operation.
There are several basic methods for mounting boards, one of which we will consider. But first, let's note what surface they can be laid on (what kind of “base” should be prepared):
- "rough floor";
- concrete, cement, self-leveling screed ();
- plywood, chipboard sheets or other even base.
Regardless of which method is chosen, the suitability of the "base" must be determined. This is especially important if the boards are supposed to be laid on a screed or concrete (reinforced concrete slabs, "pouring"). The point, again, in particular wood to absorb moisture. It is necessary to determine whether the “base” has dried out sufficiently. After all, the evaporation of liquids occurs in the direction from the bottom up. Therefore, it is impossible to lay boards on a damp base.
We check with a film
Part of the surface is covered with polyethylene, and its edges along the perimeter are glued to the base (for example, with adhesive tape). The task is to completely seal this area. If the screed (or concrete) is not dry enough, then after about 12 - 24 hours (depending on the temperature in the room), moisture droplets will appear on the inside of the film.
piece of rubber
The principle is the same. Such a "rug" lies on the floor, and on top - some kind of load. If after the specified time a stain forms in this place, then the base is still damp.
What to consider when laying a board
Regardless of how the board will be installed, some additional measures need to be taken. Their expediency is determined by local conditions. We will simply list them.
Foundation preparation
After laying the boards, it will be inaccessible. Therefore, it is worth worrying about its integrity in advance. This is especially important for apartments located in multi-storey buildings. You need to understand that any gap, an unsealed joint is a “path” along which heat leaves the room and sounds penetrate. Therefore, the base must not only be cleaned of debris, but also washed (if it is concrete). Then all its defects will be visible. By the way, for some reason, many people neglect this, absolutely not thinking about the importance of this stage.
Hydro and vapor barrier
There is no point in talking about the need for this. First, wood needs to breathe. Secondly, the risk of even an accidental underlying floor is minimized. By the way, such a small “nuisance” often entails large financial losses in the form of monetary compensation for material damage.
Warming
For owners of private housing, this allows you to significantly save on heating, and for residents of the first floors - to avoid drafts and cold floors.
When choosing one or another method of arranging the covering from the boards, all these factors must be taken into account. Consider the most common and easily implemented method.
Laying boards using a log
This method has, perhaps, the only drawback, although it is relative - a decrease in the height of the room (thickness of the boards and lag). But there are more than enough advantages, especially since this technique is much simpler. The thickness of the logs are selected taking into account the preliminary finishing and material for insulation. It is advisable to use solid bars, and not "composite".
Mounting Features
- all wood must be dried in advance and (flame retardants and antiseptics);
- the interval between the lags is determined by the thickness of the board. The thinner it is, the more often supports are placed. In addition, the specifics of the premises, the "load" of the floors are taken into account. For example, the presence (or absence) of heavy furniture and the like;
- it must be taken into account that the boards are laid perpendicular to the lags. And how to lay them depends on several factors: the location of the door, windows, the illumination of the room;
- the lag is fastened depending on the base - with screws (with dowels), nails, landing on a mortar or mastic. The main thing is that all their upper surfaces are located in one, strictly horizontal plane. This is easy to check with the help of a level (building) and a long rail, which is superimposed on top in various directions. In this way, any distortion can be determined. To eliminate it, you can, for example, knock out wedges or use another alignment method;
- boards are fixed with self-tapping screws. This is much better than nails, since you may have to change one of them later. Such fasteners simply unscrew;
- if laying is done on an old board, then it is made perpendicular. While maintaining the direction of the location of the floorboards on the "rough" floor, plywood should be filled;
- a tight fit of the boards to each other is done with the help of a stop from a piece of board or bar.
The final stage is the grinding of the coating and the installation of skirting boards around the perimeter of the room. After that, further cladding is carried out (linoleum flooring, application of paint and varnish compositions).
Other techniques involve careful leveling of the base. This is a rather complex and painstaking work, which has many nuances. In addition, all activities are carried out in different ways, depending on the material of the "base" and the financial capabilities of the owners of the home.
- You should not start laying boards immediately after purchasing them. Experts recommend bringing them indoors and leaving them there for a couple of days. The material must "get used" to the microclimate that has been established in this room. If the arrangement of the floors is carried out in the "new building", then such work begins after the installation of windows and doors.
- When laying on logs, it is advisable to use a beam equipped with a device that allows you to adjust the height. This will greatly facilitate the process of leveling the surface.
Flooring is a long-awaited stage in the transition from the state of “when will this construction be completed” to the state of “it seems that it will be completed soon”. The premises take on a more or less normal appearance, it is easier to assess the area and volume. On open tracks, verandas, in utility blocks, the plank floor is laid from edged boards. But there are gaps in it, which, in this case, is acceptable. In residential premises, a special tongue-and-groove board is usually used. Its installation has its own characteristics, which we will talk about in this article. So, laying the floor from a grooved board - details and techniques.
What is a grooved board and why is it better
A board is called grooved, along one side of which a groove is cut, along the other - a spike. When laying, the spike enters the groove, creating a stronger connection, eliminating "blowing". And this is a plus compared to edged or deck boards.
Another plus is associated with the technological process: the grooved board is “customized” in geometry, cutting off the sidewalls, sanding the front side, and longitudinal grooves are cut on the back side for better ventilation. Then, a spike and a groove are formed on the machined sidewalls with a cutter. After that, the grooved board is ready. With such processing, there is certainly a difference (especially in low-grade goods), but not so big and grinding is needed, but not to the same extent as when using edged lumber.
A little about why it is so much more expensive. There is a lot of work, it is for this reason that this material is much more expensive, but the floor is stronger, more reliable.
How to choose quality material
Laying a tongue and groove floor begins with the choice of material. Let's talk about sizes first. The width of the floorboard is from 70 mm to 200 mm. To take too narrow - it will take a lot of time to lay, too wide - it is very likely that the edges of the board will rise when it dries, the floor will turn out to be ribbed. The problem is solved by grinding, but this is an additional cost in terms of time and money. Therefore, most often they take a grooved board of medium width - 130-150 cm.
The thickness of the grooved board is from 18 mm to 45 mm. Laying a thin one is unprofitable - so that it does not bend when laying on logs, they (logs) must be set often. Therefore, for the floor, lumber with a thickness of 28 mm, 36 mm, 45 mm is more often used.
The grooved board is sold in different lengths. The standard ones are 3 m and 6 m, but they produce 4 m and 5 m. The choice is simple here: the length of the material should be slightly longer than the length of the room in which it will be laid. Splicing in length is not very beautiful, because they often do it that way.
The choice of wood species
The floor board is made from pine and spruce, larch, oak or ash. Pine and spruce are not expensive, but their wood is soft. Traces remain from heels, fallen objects, are squeezed by furniture. In places of active movement, "paths" are formed over time. The situation can be saved by coating with wear-resistant varnish in several layers. If this option suits you, the choice is good.
Larch tongue-and-groove board is a more expensive material, but also more wear-resistant. The wood has a pronounced pattern, a pleasant color. Can be used uncoated or coated with oil-based formulations without creating a hard film on the surface.
Oak and ash are very beautiful hardwoods with dense, durable wood. But their prices are outrageous. As in the previous version, the floor of these types of wood can be used without coating or with more gentle formulations.
Type of grooved board and its characteristics
All lumber is divided into four grades:
Grade C is used when constructing a subfloor. There are too many defects in it for a fine one. The remaining classes are suitable for finishing, but which grade you choose depends on financial capabilities - the difference between the classes is decent.
Humidity
For a comfortable laying of a tongue and groove floor, choose kiln-dried wood. In this case, the raw material after sawing is aged in drying chambers, in which it is brought to a moisture content of 8-14%. Such material is unlikely to dry out after laying - this is almost impossible, but the cost is about 50% higher compared to natural drying material. This is due to the cost of equipment (drying chambers) and fuel for drying.
Humidity is measured with a special device that professionals have, and even then not everyone. You can also try to determine by appearance. Most often, kiln-dried lumber is packed in polyethylene - so that it does not absorb moisture from the air. Naturally, the packaging must be intact and free of moisture (condensation on the inside). If you knock on dry wood, it makes a clear, ringing sound, while wet wood sounds muffled.
What will happen if you lay the floor from the grooved board of high humidity? The first thing you will have to face is the formation of cracks as it shrinks. After six months or a year, the floor will have to be redone, removing the gaps that have formed. Secondly, cracks often appear during drying, the wood is twisted in different directions. Sometimes these distortions can be compensated by pressing the board harder, sometimes not. So you have to keep a couple of boards "in reserve": to add during the bulkhead from shrinkage and to replace badly crumpled fragments.
Geometry
When choosing, be sure to pay attention not to the geometry. In addition to the fact that the thickness and width of the board should match, there should be no significant curvature, it is necessary to pay attention to the correct formation of the tongue and groove:
In normal production, this is all monitored, but in reality there is a very large spread - 5 mm is not the limit. It is clear that such a floor will have to be sanded. But, the smaller the discrepancy, the less work will be done. Therefore, try to find a manufacturer for which this difference will be minimal.
Grooved floor installation
Due to the possible shrinkage of the wood, the laying of the floor from the grooved board is carried out in two stages. For the first time, only every 4-5 plank is fixed, after 6-18 months the coating is sorted out, eliminating the gaps that have formed. The second time they are already attaching each board, to each log.
If the premises are residential, the wood, while it dries, is overwritten and loses its attractive appearance. To prevent this from happening, for the first time the grooved board is fixed with the back side up. When re-laying, turn it face up. We have clean coverage.
Laying the floor from the grooved board on the logs is the most acceptable option
When purchasing material, do not forget to leave a few strips so that you can add after tightening. Depending on the initial moisture and the width of the boards, one or two (or even more) additional boards may be required. They are also left to dry. Preferably in the same room, but possible in the attic. On the street, this is already a problem, since the appearance will be “not the same”.
Mounting method and fasteners
Laying the floor from the grooved board can be carried out using nails or self-tapping screws. Nails are made of flexible steel and endure significant loads. When “twisting” the boards, they bend, but do not break. Only there is another problem: it is very difficult, and sometimes impossible, to remove them without damaging the wood. And it is necessary to remove the fasteners when replacing too curved boards or when reassembling the floor after the wood has dried. Therefore, self-tapping screws are more often used, and not black, but yellow. Black ones are made of brittle hardened steel. With lateral loads that occur during the "torsion" of the boards, the hats simply fly off. So, for laying a grooved floor, it is better to use yellow self-tapping screws.
There are three ways to fix the floorboard, two of which are hidden:
With a hidden fastening, the self-tapping screw must be installed so that it does not interfere with the installation of the next board. To do this, a hole is pre-drilled (the drill is equal in diameter to the diameter of the cap), and then self-tapping screws are installed. The dimensions of the fastener depend on the thickness of the board, but most often they are used with a length of 70-75 mm and a diameter of 4-4.5 mm. Such a large length is needed due to the fact that with a secret fastening, the screw enters at an angle, it turns out - to a not very great depth.
If you still decide to make a reliable fastening in the face, it can be made less noticeable. This is achieved by deepening the head into the wood (you can pre-drill a hole). The resulting recess is sealed with wood putty and sanded. The second option is to cut out the chopik, install it in the recess and sand it too. But all this requires a significant amount of time and skills, therefore, when installing a grooved board, they prefer to use hidden mounting methods.
General rules for flooring
The first row is laid with a gap of 5-7 mm from the wall and fastened, stepping back from the edge of about 1 cm, into the front surface - into the face. This place will be covered with a plinth, so you can do that. If the mounting method "into the spike" is selected, the groove is turned to the wall, and vice versa.
The last board is also laid so that there is some gap to the wall. It can be provided with the help of linings and wedges that are hammered between the wall and the last board. It is also fastened “into the face”, stepping back about 1 cm from the edge.
How to pull floor boards
If you take a grooved board of class AB or B, there will be a lot of curved board. The longer the board, the more pronounced the curvature will be. The first few pieces from the wall try to choose the most even ones. They are laid, fixed. This will be the basis on which you can navigate. Next, they try to select the boards so that the curved places alternate. They are pressed or they are said to be “pulled together”, trying to make sure that there are no gaps.
On the right is the traditional way of screeding curved floorboards.
For screeding the floorboard, different devices are used. For example, a support bar nailed at some distance and several wedges. This method is good for everyone, except that you have to screw the support every time. With rough laying, when only 4-5 boards are attached, this is still normal - you can pull together several pieces at a time. But if you need to fasten each, it takes a lot of time. Therefore, clamps, special staples, and other devices are used. The clamps are simply fixed to the joists, the staples are hammered into them, after which ordinary wooden wedges are used, which unite the coating, eliminating the gaps. Both options take less time.
There are also factory options (pictured below). The main thing here is a cunning mechanism for attaching to the lags on the clamp. The mechanism for holding the boards in the desired position is also interesting.
When working, make sure that the laying of the floor from the grooved board does not “leave”. This can be seen if you look at the laid floor from the side: the flooring can be bent along the edges to one side. To prevent this, periodically measure the distance from the board to be laid to the walls in several places, adjust its position to acceptable levels.
The video shows in more detail how to work with such devices. The first is the traditional way with a thrust board and wedges.
The second is unusual homemade clamps from a hairpin and a corner for ceiling mounting of beams. An interesting option - you can adjust the length of the clamp, that is, you can rearrange it every other time.
A very interesting way to quickly install. But in this case, the laying of the floor from the grooved board is done by two: one presses, the second installs the fasteners. You just have to pre-drill holes for the desired width of the lumber.
Can a tongue and groove floor installation be done without this step? Maybe if you buy material of the “extra” class or lay meter-long (or so) pieces. If there are gaps on a meter-long segment, they are small and easily corrected without devices.
If you notice that the time has come to replace the floors in your apartment, then, undoubtedly, the choice should be made in favor of the floor from the boards. Environmentally friendly material and the warmth of such a floor will more than pay off all financial expenses. The material, of course, must be expensive, of high quality and without any defects. But there is still a way to save money - this is laying the floor board with your own hands.
Thus, you will be able to save an impressive amount of money, professionals evaluate the provision of their services very expensively. But before embarking on such complex and time-consuming work, it is necessary to thoroughly and carefully study the information, learn everything about laying the floor from the boards.
The floor from the boards normalizes the microclimate of the dwelling. It has huge advantages, for example, maintains a comfortable level of moisture, has excellent sound insulation and a wonderful appearance, retains heat.
Laying boards can be carried out on the following surfaces:
- concrete floor;
- lags;
- plywood;
- old wooden floor.
Remember one of the main rules: observe the correct level of humidity in the apartment. If this is ignored, then in the future the wood may become deformed, the boards may shrivel or crack.
Materials must be kept indoors for at least 3 days prior to laying in order to fully adapt to the surrounding atmosphere.
What may be required for work
Logs (wooden bars) - this is the most common way of laying the floor.
Required tools:
- maximum length level;
- ruler 2-3 m long;
- chisel;
- screwdriver;
- a hammer;
- hacksaw;
- a circular saw;
- plane;
- nail puller;
- pencil.
Materials:
- boards;
- skirting boards;
- slats;
- primer;
- varnish, paint.
The first step - the logs are fixed to the main coating with self-tapping screws. The second step - after the installation is completed, it is necessary to plan the system and make it smooth. You need to strive for a perfectly flat surface.
The third stage of this multi-level construction is the laying of plywood, which needs to be cut into longitudinal sheets. These segments are stacked strictly diagonally.
The fourth step is to securely fasten the plywood with screws. Remember to leave seams between sheets.
The fifth step - this surface must be carefully sanded.
The sixth step is to clean the base for laying floors from dirt and dust after the sanding process.
The seventh step is applying primer to the surface.
The eighth step is the transition directly to laying the board. Boards are securely fastened, polished. Then comes the processing of paint and varnish.
This is how they lay the floors from the board with their own hands. This work will require a lot of patience and attention. Everything must be done accurately, accurately and reliably. Unless, of course, you want to redo everything anew after a few years.
How to install plank flooring on top of an existing floor?
- First of all, examine the old floor with a critical and picky look. If you notice an unreliable and badly worn board, then by all means replace it.
- When installing a floor with such a base, the boards are laid perpendicular to the old floor.
- Such a foundation is not recommended by specialists, but if you are convinced that the floor is reliable, strong and durable, then feel free to proceed with the action.
How to properly insulate and insulate such floors? These actions are necessary, but they are very simple and do not cause difficulties even for a beginner.
For insulation, you will need basalt wool. It should be laid between the lags, and covered with vapor-tight waterproofing on top. If you want to protect the wood from the nuisance of rotting, you will need a high-capacity waterproofing membrane. Compliance with these simple and elementary conditions will allow you to enjoy a good floor for a long time and keep its original appearance.
Installation of grooved boards
Successful will be the laying of the boards, which lies parallel to the sunlight. Remember that it will be very difficult for a beginner to make such floors. This requires experience and skill, but if you still decide, then get a special template with which you will cut the material.
- There must be a gap between the floor covering and the walls.
- Upon completion of the installation, all this will be closed with a plinth.
- It all starts with the first board, which must be laid with a mounting ledge to the wall.
- It is followed by the second. You combine the tongue and groove. Such boards are fixed with self-tapping screws.
- Boards are fastened with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter of the room.
- Next comes sanding and painting or varnishing.
How to lay parquet
The parquet floor looks expensive and luxurious. It is a noble, durable and reliable floor. This is a very complex design, in order to achieve a perfect appearance, you will have to work hard. The most reliable method is laying parquet tiles on moisture-resistant plywood.
In order to significantly facilitate the task of installation, the parquet is provided with a system of key connection of boards. That is why everyone can handle it. The work will not cause serious difficulties. By purchasing this material, you will receive installation instructions. But it's too general. Therefore, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with additional information and tips for finishing such a floor.
First of all, there is the finishing of the base for parquet. A special screed is made on the floor, which forms a perfectly flat floor surface. There are two types of screed: wet and dry. This will not affect the quality of the parquet in any way.
Remember that work must be done in a clean manner. It is necessary to clean the room as the floor becomes dirty.
A waterproofing film is laid on the screed. You can use both a special film and a regular one, polyethylene.
A layer of thermal insulation is laid on the film. A roll of material is unwound along the floor butt against the wall. No gaps or seams.
The work on preparing the base is completed, you can proceed to the most interesting stage - laying the parquet. Laying comes from a long wall, the first board is placed in its corner. Special wedges are inserted between all walls and the parquet to be laid to provide the necessary clearance - 1.5 cm. This will help to avoid deformation in the future.
Floors are assembled quickly and easily. The last rows, as a rule, need to be trimmed. When doing this, also remember to keep the gap between the floor and the wall.
If your parquet is with an ornament, the task becomes more complicated, it becomes necessary to select a pattern. Accordingly, the consumption of material also increases. For styling, professionals use a rubber mallet. Gently tap the tile with a hammer so that it lies correctly in the desired position.
All rows are laid in the same way until the floor surface is completely covered.
At the edges, do not forget about the need for gaps.
After all the work is done, carefully remove all the wedges and cut off the layer of waterproofing and film that has come to the surface.
In order to complete the work, you need to nail the baseboards. Do-it-yourself parquet floor is ready for use.
- Transportation of material must be very careful and careful, make sure that moisture does not get on the tree.
- For mounting the board, special wood screws are used.
- Before laying the boards, they are treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.
- The gap between the walls and the boards is at least 0.5 cm. This will reduce the noise level.
- After laying the floor requires careful grinding, then a primer base is applied and the surface is again sanded.
- Varnishes are applied in three layers, but do not forget that before applying the next layer, the previous one must dry completely.
- For coating, special paints and varnishes are used with increased resistance to abrasion and loss of the original appearance and properties.
- Floor boards need to be purchased only the most expensive and high-quality, otherwise everything will become unusable after a few years. Floor repairs, as a rule, are started infrequently, so it makes sense to incur financial losses.
- If you lay the parquet parallel to the window, then the seams will become almost invisible.
- When laying the board, glue must be used.
Plank floors look amazing. Wood is the highest quality, harmless and noble material. Whichever floor option you choose, it will be exceptional. In the modern world, all materials for the implementation of such an undertaking are sold in a huge assortment and variety.
But the main function of the floor is, of course, not to attract admiring glances, but reliability, the floor should last for many years and at the same time retain all its positive properties. Therefore, choose this product very carefully, the board must be free of defects and flaws, perfectly flat and smooth. Then the floors will do their job.
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