Do-it-yourself wall putty (advice from an experienced craftsman). How to putty walls with your own hands: technology for applying finishing putty What is wall puttying

If you decide to putty the walls with your own hands and not resort to the help of a specialist, then in this article you will find a lot of useful information for yourself. Let's figure out how to properly putty walls for wallpaper, for painting. Of course, the matter is not simple and requires skill, but we will try to understand the question “how to putty walls?” I will not teach you how to hold a spatula and somehow especially drive it, you will learn all this yourself in the process of work. If a question is not covered, do not hesitate to ask it in the comments.

What is putty

Putty is a finishing material that is used to level small defects and create a uniform surface structure. It mainly consists of gypsum, acrylic and polymer materials.

Why putty walls

The walls are puttied in order to remove and even out minor surface defects, to improve adhesion. Putty performs very well the function of preparation for finishing. In addition to the leveling qualities, putty is environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable and well processed or polished.

Putty or putty which is correct?

Especially for those who argue for the correct spelling. In dictionaries, the words putty and putty have the same lexical meanings, so both options are correct. But there is one thing, but ... In most construction literature and official information sources, the option (putty) is used. It is up to you to decide which option is more convenient for consumption, but still, it is more fair to say - putty! But in this article, for certain reasons, I will use two options.

Types of putty for walls

And so, how to make the right choice when buying. First, let's figure out what types it is. We conditionally divide the types of putties into 4 types. For convenience, we will consider them in this form:

• Starting
• Finishing
• facade

To understand what kind of putty you need and in what quantity, you need to build on two factors:

1. What kind of surface is
2. What finish will be at the finish

We will consider all possible options below, but for now let's talk about the types of putty

Starting putty

Designed for rough alignment of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. The starting putty fills small and deep cracks well and does not shrink when dried. The composition mainly includes gypsum and acrylic additives. Well covers plastered surfaces, well suited for preparation for wallpaper or fiberglass (cobweb).

Finishing putty

Designed for the final alignment of small defects indoors with moderate humidity. B consists mainly of polymers, therefore it does not have a large grain size. When filling deep scratches, it shrinks significantly after drying. It is mainly used on the final layers in preparation for painting, decorative fine coatings. Good for fiberglass reinforcement.

Putties for special applications

This type includes all other varieties that will be useful to us in the repair. These are putties for sealing factory and non-factory drywall joints, for reinforcing and filling various joints and cracks. They dry quickly for ease of use, practically do not shrink, and have increased strength.

Facade putty

The scope of their application is clear from the name. The composition contains cement, therefore it has a greenish tint and is often called cement putty. It is applied in damp rooms, loggias, in basements and on facades. It is frost-resistant at drying and has the increased durability.

What putty to choose

So still, which putty to choose? A few words about the composition and frequently asked questions.

Choosing a putty according to the composition

Here I’ll tell you what putties are in composition and which of the above types I can attribute them to. At the same time I will answer frequently asked questions. I think everything will fall into place here.

Gypsum putty

The main composition is gypsum, the rest is plasticizers and all kinds of additives. Gypsum itself has a coarse fraction compared to other types of putties. Therefore, it belongs to the type of starting finishing materials, well suited for preparation for wallpaper, cobwebs and rough decorative finishes.

Acrylic putty

Acrylic is such a versatile material that can be used in the production of putties of any kind, both starting dry and finishing in buckets. As well as acrylic putties are widely used in the processing of wood car bodies, etc. Therefore, it is probably not correct to use the concept of "acrylic putty" for a specific application. In this case, it can be both a start and a finish. Very often used in the production of putty on wood.

Latex putty

Think for yourself, latex is rubber. Therefore, putty for wall decoration cannot be rubber, it simply contains a latex component. This putty is very flexible and can be used in wet areas, although it all depends on the manufacturer.

Polymer putty

Basically, these are all finishing putties, except for gypsum. Acrylic and vinyl are also polymers, so acrylic and vinyl putty can also be called polymer putty.

Dry putty for walls

This is the starting material, mainly plaster and acrylic. Again, suitable for preparation for wallpaper, cobwebs and decor.

What putty to choose for painting

The wall is prepared for painting as follows:

If the plaster on the wall is 2 layers of starting gypsum putty, we prime it, if necessary, we glue the cobweb or reinforcing mesh and 3 layers of finished putty, grind it and you're done. If you are interested in specifics, then I use acryl-putz starting at the beginning and rotband pasta or sheetrock at the finish. It's about quality paint. If high-quality painting is not needed, then you can putty 3 layers of starting putty, grind and paint.

What putty to choose for wallpaper

Under the wallpaper I use a starting putty that comes dry in bags. If we putty plaster, then basically 3 layers of gypsum or acrylic starting putty are enough. I can recommend acryl-putz, miners, typhoon, knauf. (if they are sold in your regions). Pay attention to the price, cheap material is almost always bad. How to putty the walls under the wallpaper, we'll talk a little later.

Putty start-finish

Positioned as a universal putty. Very well suited for preparation for wallpaper, cobwebs and rough painting. As a finishing putty on the cobweb, this mixture will not work, I also do not recommend it for finishing for painting ceilings and slopes. Finishing putty should be ready-made in polymer-based buckets, and not dry. There are no universal putties that perform their function well everywhere.

The best finishing putty

For a long time working in the field of decoration, I tried to work with different brands. I have used them in different conditions and on different surfaces. As for the finishing putty, I can safely say that you need to take Knauf rotband pasta, sheetrock, Bostik finspakel (it hardens very much) Often the finishing putty is called “ready putty for walls”

Summing up the choice

A short selection of putty. For those who are too lazy to read the entire article, who just need to know the number of layers and what kind of putty to buy:

Type of training	Work order
under the wallpaper	3 layers of starter
for painting	2 layers of starting, cobweb, 3 layers of finishing
for decorative coating rough	2 layers of starting, mesh reinforcement, 1 layer of starting
for decorative coating finely dispersed	2 layers of starting, reinforcement, 3 layers of finishing
slopes	2 start, web, 3 finish
GKL for painting	finishing of seams with special putties, cobwebs, 3 layers of finishing
GKL under wallpaper	finishing of seams, finishing of seams with finishing putty
loggia	3 layers of facade (if you really need to putty, and it's damp on the balcony)
basement	if the facade putty is very damp 3 layers.
bathroom	although not recommended, I use the usual technology, as in other rooms. But you can paint it with moisture resistant paint.

We will discuss this in more detail in the following chapters.

Calculation and consumption of putty for different surfaces

And so, how to calculate putty for walls ... To begin with, let's figure out what surface we have, if these are plastered walls, then the consumption will increase significantly. Drywall walls will not require a lot of putty, but they will require a special putty for fugen, uniflot joints.

Putty consumption per m2

The average consumption of the starting putty, indicated by the manufacturers, is 1kg-1.2kg per m2 of the wall with a layer thickness of 0.6-3mm. Putty consumption per 1 m2 of wall is a very approximate parameter.

Basically, the consumption depends on the characteristics of the wall (state, porosity), the experience of the “specialist” also plays a significant role

The consumption of finishing putty per m2 of the wall is slightly less, 0.3-0.5 kg with a layer thickness of 0.5 mm. Again, it all depends on the surface being treated. For example, the consumption of putty on the gossamer will be much more than stated and will be approximately 0.5 kg per m2.

You will not be able to calculate the exact amount of putty, so we take the average figures, multiply by the number of layers (thickness mm) and multiply by the quadrature of the walls. For example, if the total area of ​​​​the walls of the room is 40m2 and we need to prepare it for wallpaper, then we take the indicator 1kg and multiply it by the number of layers (3 layers of 0.6mm = 1.8mm) and multiply by 40m2

1kg*1.8mm*40m2= 72kg

One bag of putty usually weighs 25kg, so we need 3 bags of dry starter putty per 40m2 room.

Calculation of putty for sealing plasterboard joints "fugenfüller" and "uniflot"

I recommend sealing factory seams with fugen knauf, and not with factory seams (cut) uniflot. There are usually not so many non-factory seams, therefore we buy the smallest volume of “uniflot” 5 kg. As for the Factory seams, the Fugenfüller consumption is approximately 1 kg per 4m2 of mounted drywall.

How to putty walls (tool)

How to putty walls? The main thing we need from the tool:

• Spatula 10 cm
• Spatula 35 cm or metal grater, trowel.
• Mixer, whisk
• Roller and brush for primer
• Grinding grater, sandpaper
• Masking tape, knife, blades
• Water tank
• Lighting, spotlight
• A vacuum cleaner

Paying attention! All spatulas, trowels, roller handles must be rust-free. So they will serve you much longer and there will be no problems with rusty spots on the walls.

Preparation for putty

Any leveling of walls with putty begins with preparation. Wall preparation is a very important stage, it will depend on how well the subsequent finishing materials will hold. The surface should be well cleaned of debris, old wallpaper, everything that does not hold well and crumbles. All nails and protruding mortar are removed if it is plaster.

Next comes the surface primer, the wall should be well saturated with a deep penetration primer and wait for it to dry completely, it is advisable to wait at least four hours, and even better, continue work the next day. The primer should not only absorb and dry, but also polymerize.

How to remove old putty from walls

If you need to remove the old putty, because it does not hold well, then a 10 cm spatula and, for example, a hatchet are enough. If the putty is holding well, you can try to wet it several times with water. It is good to prescribe, and again try to remove it with a spatula.

If the putty is well primed, not removed and not soaked, then there are only two options.

• Knock down with a perforator to the plaster (then you will need to plaster the surface)
• The second option is to make notches with a hatchet, prime with a deep penetration primer, wait until it dries completely, and then cover the entire wall with primer (sandy soil)

Puttying various surfaces for different finishes

Puttying different surfaces is essentially the same process, the difference is only in the preparation and number of layers. I’ll tell you about the puttying technique itself in another chapter, and in this one we will talk about the preparation and number of layers.

How to putty drywall

We’ll talk in more detail about the puttying technology itself in the chapter “do-it-yourself wall puttying (step-by-step instructions)”. We start with the preparation of drywall. The preparation includes sealing the seams with sickle tape or paper tape. At this stage, we will need a putty for a special application (basically, this application is the sealing of HL joints). To seal the factory joints of HL, we use knauf fugen. For non-factory seams, we use knauf uniflot.

Drywall primer before puttying

We evenly apply the primer on the wall with a roller, be sure to evenly and without smudges, prime all seams and corners with a brush. We are waiting for complete drying!

Puttying drywall joints with fugen and uniflot putties

This is a special putty for drywall developed by Knauf, which practically does not shrink and performs its function very well. We glue the sickle tape on the factory seams, coat the fugen knauf factory seams, and not the uniflot knauf factory seams. If we use paper tape, then first we coat the seams with putty, then we glue the tape and push it deep into the layer with a spatula. Non-factory seams should have expansion gaps, and the cardboard edges should be cut on each side at 45 degrees.

How to knead the fugenfüller is read on the packaging. I draw your attention to the fact that you need to knead only in clean water and only by hand.

Puttying drywall before wallpapering

We are waiting for the complete drying of the sealed seams, we clean the excess and small sagging with a 35 cm spatula. We knead the starting putty and go through all the seams again. We are waiting for complete drying, then we clean all the seams with coarse sandpaper 80P-100P. Then re-priming the entire wall.

Do I need to putty drywall before wallpapering? Usually, the sealed seams should be enough for subsequent wallpapering (be sure to putty the seams with a starting putty after the fugen dries). But, if you have very thin wallpaper, then it is advisable to putty the entire wall of GKL with a finished finishing putty in three layers. I recommend using knauf rotband pasta or sheetrock finishing putty. We clean it with an emery abrasive 140-180P, remove dust with a vacuum cleaner and re-primer.

Plasterboard plasterboard for painting

Seams are closed in the above way. The seams must be cleaned and the entire wall primed. For high-quality painting, we use a cobweb, glue it on Bostik glue (I wrote about this in an article about gluing cobwebs) Then we putty the cobweb into three layers and clean it with sandpaper 180-240R. Instead of a cobweb, you can glue a paint grid with a 2x2 cell.

If you are not very interested in quality, but savings are required, then you can simply clean the seams and paint with a long-nap roller. It will turn out a little better if you putty another 2 layers with finishing putty, clean it up 180r.

Wall putty for painting

The technology of puttying walls for painting does not differ from others, only the number of layers, the presence of reinforcing material (if high-quality painting), the number of sandpaper when cleaning the putty differ.

If the surface is plastered, then the sequence of work should look like this:

1. Preparation, primer
2. 2-3 layers of starting putty (depending on the quality of the plaster)
3. Rough sanding with 80R sandpaper
4. Dusting, priming
5. Fiberglass (cobweb) is glued, or reinforcing mesh (glued to the finishing putty)
6. Then 2-3 layers of finishing finished putty
7. Grinding with sandpaper 180-240R
8. Dedusting, vacuuming, priming (white primer)

Puttying fiberglass before painting

Many people ask the question, is it possible to putty fiberglass? In fact, these are glass wallpapers and many simply paint them, but I will tell you that this is complete nonsense. Practice shows that puttying a cobweb is not only possible, but necessary!

Here only ready-made putty for walls (finishing) will be used. We putty the first layer “on the strip”, hammer it in, smooth the putty into all the pores of the cobweb in different directions and completely remove it. We putty under good consecration, we make sure that there are no gaps. We try not to drive with a spatula for a very long time, if the cobweb is of poor quality, then it will soak and reach for the spatula. The next two applications of putty are applied with a thin, neat layer.

How to putty the walls under the wallpaper

Puttying the walls for wallpaper is the hundredth easiest preparation, in my opinion. Reinforcement is not required if the wallpaper is thick, even finishing putty is not required. Easily rubbed with coarse sandpaper. The main thing is to observe the minimum technology, which I will describe below.

1. We clean, dedust the wall
2. Separately close up large pits and cracks
3. The first layer is applied
4. After drying, the wall is cleaned with a spatula from excess debris.
5. Apply 2 layers
6. Cleaned with sandpaper 100-120R
7. Dedusted
8. Prime with white primer, wait for complete drying

I recommend buying thick non-woven wallpaper, they are easier to apply and better hide the small nuances of the walls. Finishing putty under the wallpaper is needed if the wallpaper is very thin and any defects will be visible. This also applies to photo wallpapers, it is also desirable to use finishing putty under them.

Puttying concrete walls

Plastering of concrete walls without plaster is acceptable in panel houses with relatively even walls, in other cases plastering of surfaces is required. It is enough to prepare well, remove everything superfluous from the wall, prime. Then, using 3 layers of starting putty, prepare for wallpaper.

Putty on foam (how to putty foam)

I don’t know what situation a person should have in order for him to need to putty penoplex, but often such questions come to our mail. Most likely, a person does not understand what putty is and does not have a clue how penoplex gets off. Or maybe he just needs to finish the facade, or the loggia, and he calls it all foam putty ... I don’t know, but I’ll write a few words about this.

Penoplex cannot be putty with materials for interior decoration, and in this article, we are talking about it. Consider the option of a loggia, for example, we have it insulated with foam plastic, dubbed and we need to prepare the surface for painting.

We cover with glue for insulation all the holes and hats from the dowel-nails. We glue the facade mesh, grind everything with plaster. After complete drying, primer. Now the walls can be puttied with cement facade putty. Personally, I recommend not to putty with cheap facade mixtures, but in this case it is best to use decorative plaster (for example, a 1.5mm stone)

Facade putty should be ground immediately after complete drying. If you wait a couple of days, then the emery abrasive will not take it.

Putty plastered walls

The plastered wall must be well cleaned with a 35 cm spatula, all sagging and everything that is pouring should be removed. Then the entire wall should be well primed and wait for complete drying. If we cook under the wallpaper, then we putty the starting putty into 3 layers. We coat all the cracks well with the first layer, fill in all the irregularities of the plaster, often such a first layer is called “puttying on a peel”. This is followed by 2 layers approximately 1mm thick. After drying, grind and primer (if under the wallpaper). If for painting, then we prepare the wall further, I will describe in more detail in the chapter “putty for painting”

Is it possible to putty on the paint

It is not advisable to putty on the paint. If you need to putty acrylic paint, then you first need to make sure that it holds well, then prime it well and wait for it to dry completely. Now it is permissible to putty on a few layers of finishing putty.

If you need to putty oil paint and there are no other options, then you need to cover it with sandy primer (for example, Caparol Putzgrund 610), after which you can putty the surface in several layers. I repeat, it is not advisable to putty the paint, it is recommended to remove it.

Putty without plaster

If you do not want to level the walls with plaster, but simply putty the walls with your own hands and stick wallpaper, then first check how crooked the walls are. This can be done using a level or a rule. If the curvature is not very large and the quality of wallpapering is of little interest to you, then you can simply putty on 3 layers and grind it with a large 80R sandpaper. We use putty exclusively starting.

How to putty a balcony (loggia)

Such cold rooms are usually finished with facade materials, so facade putty is suitable for us. The composition of the facade putty includes cement, so it has a fairly large fraction. I recommend using high-quality expensive material (for example, Caparol) Cheap - when grinding the emery, it spills out in spots and behaves poorly when applied. If you need to finish the loggia, it is better to use decorative plaster on the walls.

Do-it-yourself wall putty (step by step instructions)

Here we will talk about how to putty the walls with your own hands step by step. We have already talked about the preparation of different surfaces, etc. in the following chapters, we will take a closer look at the putty technology itself and talk again about preparing for wallpaper, painting, and learn how to properly apply putty.

We carry out works in dry rooms with a temperature from +5 to +25. The material is transported at the same temperature.

Step 1: preparing the walls

I already wrote about the preparation of the walls above in the chapter “preparation for putty” here I will repeat a little so as not to confuse everything even more. We clean the walls with a 35 cm spatula (preferably an old one) after such cleaning, the spatula is not very suitable for subsequent puttying. We clean the corners well, often after plastering the corners are slightly rounded. Pay attention to the connection to the ceiling and floor. The plane should be flat and neatly adjacent to adjacent walls and ceilings.

Step 2: priming the walls before puttying

Which primer is best? The soil should be a block of impregnation, I recommend Caparol Tiefgrund, ceresit st17. Although any concentrated primer of deep impregnation is not bad. We dilute the primer according to the instructions, pour it into a bucket or bath and use a brush to impregnate all the corners and adjoining walls. Then, using a roller, apply a primer to all surfaces requiring puttying. The primer of the walls for puttying is done evenly. We are waiting for complete drying from four hours, but preferably a day.

Step 3: how to spread putty

Pour approximately 2 liters of clean water into a bucket and pour 5 kg of dry putty (all figures depend on the manufacturer). Then use a mixer or whisk with a drill, mix everything until smooth. If required, add water or putty to achieve the desired density. If putty is taken on a 10 cm spatula and turned over, then it should not drain. Also, the solution should not be very thick, but well elastic. After the first mixing, wait 3-4 minutes and mix again. After that, the solution is ready for use. The solution should resemble thick sour cream.

If you want to putty with a finished type of putty, then I recommend adding 0.5 liters of clean water to a 10-liter bucket and mix with a mixer. Putty will become more elastic and more convenient to apply

Step 4: putty technology

Finishing and starting putty is applied essentially the same, the difference is only in the thickness of the application.

How to apply putty

If there are large potholes and cracks on the wall, then we putty them in advance and wait until everything dries. Then we apply putty in an even layer on a 35 cm spatula and, starting from the corner, we begin to put putty on the wall. If the wall is plastered, then after application we remove the putty “on the strip” with a spatula so that the first layer penetrates only into all small cracks and irregularities.

Do not forget that we are leveling the walls with putty, so we try to fill in all the holes and small irregularities

After the first layer has dried, we re-clean the wall with a spatula from particles of excess sand putty from plaster and other debris. Then we evenly apply the second layer of putty, but we do not remove it completely, but apply a layer of approximately 0.5 mm, in places of irregularities the layer can reach up to 5 mm.

We putty necessarily with good consecration, preferably under a spotlight or a light bulb.

The third layer can be applied without waiting for the second layer to dry completely. We apply each layer in different directions so that the final movement of the spatula does not coincide with the direction of the next one. The third layer can be applied generally fan-shaped, smoothing out with arcuate movements.

Pay attention to the reverse side of the spatula. Periodically remove dry particles of putty and debris from it.

How to apply finishing putty (liquid putty for walls)

Wash the tool often so that it does not become completely overgrown. To do this, you need to have a bucket of water and dish sponges on hand.

The finished finishing putty is applied in exactly the same way as the starting one (described above). We try to apply a layer thinner. Be sure to putty the walls for good side lighting. Finishing putty has the property of strong shrinkage, so it is better not to level a layer of 2-3 mm.

Step 5: how to putty the corners

Puttying the corners of the walls is an important step, you need to make sure that the corners are well filled with putty and dark empty cracks do not shine through.

Inner corner

The inner corner of the adjacent ones is puttied alternately. First, one wall, we wait for complete drying, with a spatula we remove excess putty particles from the corner, then we putty the adjacent wall.

outside corner

In modern repairs, perforated corners have long been used, aluminum ones are used for painting work. They are set according to the level, after drying, the corner should be pulled off with putty on both sides. (I recommend delaying the fugen knauf, it shrinks a little)

Plastering drywall corners

The inner corner of the GKL is glued with a sickle tape or a special paper tape and pulled off with a uniflot or fugen putty. If sickle tape is used, then we carefully push the putty into the drywall seams. If paper tape, then the seams are filled before applying the tape, excess putty is pressed through and removed with a spatula. The outer corner is also exposed to the "fugenfüller" and is pulled from both sides. (in some cases, the corner is pulled twice)

Reinforcement

Reinforcement during puttying usually occurs at the stage when our wall is puttied for 1-3 layers. Reinforcement such as paint mesh and gossamer protects the wall only from small cracks. In addition to the reinforcing effect, the gossamer creates a uniform surface and smoothes out small irregularities.

Gossamer (fiberglass)

In one of the articles, I described the detailed technology for gluing the web, so I will describe it briefly here.

1. 2-3 layers of starting putty, cleaned with 80P sandpaper
2. Priming, waiting for complete drying
3. Glue is applied with a roller (I recommend glue from Bostik, or Oskar)
4. Fiberglass is applied, smoothed with a spatula
5. Reapply a layer of glue with a roller
6. Smooth with a spatula 35 cm, as if putty with glue
7. Subsequent strips of fiberglass are glued end-to-end, or cut with a knife at the junction

paint mesh

Autumn protects walls well from small cracks, great for preparing for painting or for decorative types of finishes.

1. 1-2 layers of starting putty (we are waiting for complete drying
2. We clean the wall with a spatula
3. We impose a grid and smooth on top with finishing putty
4. The excess is cut off with a paint knife.
5. After that, 2 more layers of finishing putty are applied.

How long does putty dry on the walls

Putty dries for about 6 hours, it all depends on the temperature and humidity of the room. It is advisable to wait a day, and then proceed to grinding. It is not recommended to wait several days, some brands of putty harden strongly.

Sanding walls after plastering

So we figured out how to properly putty the walls, now we will answer the question of how to sand the walls after puttying. There is nothing complicated in grinding, there are only a few small nuances, which I will now talk about.
Hand grinding

In manual grinding, a “hand grater” is used - this is a tool for grinding walls after puttying, I advise you to purchase from white plastic. black leaves streaks in the corners when sanded. Sandpaper is better to use not the cheapest. The most important thing and the very first thing to say is to remember to use a respirator!

Sanding the walls after puttying takes place exclusively in circular motions and under the consecration of a spotlight!

If we use a household vacuum cleaner, then there is a chance of damaging the equipment. Therefore, we first remove large debris with a spatula and sweep. Vacuum the rest of the dust.

Grid for putty grouting

Personally, I do not use a mesh, in my region it is not of high quality and scratches the surface. As far as I know, it can be used with special graters that connect to a vacuum cleaner. You need to connect only industrial devices, for example, bosch gas50.

Machine grinding

In my opinion, machine sanding is great for sanding under wallpaper, and requires some skill so as not to rub large holes. Before painting, it is better to grind by hand. Machine sanding reduces labor costs, reduces dust, and speeds up the process. But you will need a grinder (preferably a special one for grinding walls), a vacuum cleaner. All this can be rented if you need to grind large volumes.

Starting repairs in the house, you should draw up an accurate, comprehensive work plan and follow it clearly. Particular attention should be paid to the walls. Unfortunately, not a single paint, whitewash or wallpaper can hide cosmetic defects and flaws in wall panels. Even in a new, newly built building, the quality and evenness of the walls leave much to be desired, which means that you will have to do something yourself.

Putty is the building material that allows you to level the walls and get rid of cracks and irregularities before finishing or decorating walls or other panels, which will allow you to make repairs with high quality.

Types of putties and their properties

Manufacturers of building materials offer putties already prepared and dry, sold in bags in the form of mixtures. When choosing here or another form of material release, you should pay attention to the marking indicated on the package. The letters KR or LR indicate that the putty is intended for ordinary rooms, and the VH marking implies use for rooms with high humidity.

There is no tangible difference between the already finished putty and the dry mix. There are small nuances, such as additional additives, the maximum layer thickness obtained in one application.

An open jar or a prepared amount of putty mixture must be used within 24 hours, otherwise it will lose all its properties, it will be difficult and difficult to apply, and a good result when working with such a tool is not guaranteed.

There are also starting and finishing putties designed for certain stages of puttying.

To dilute the dry mix you will need:

• dry putty mixture;
• water;
• container for mixing;
• construction mixer or drill with a special nozzle.

Usually putty is diluted in a ratio of 1 liter of cold water to 2.5 kg of dry mix.

The resulting putty mixture should be close in consistency to thick sour cream. A too liquid composition will flow down the wall, a thicker one will crumple in a limited area, preventing an even layer of the product from being applied.

It should be remembered that the resulting mixture can neither be thickened with an additional portion of dry powder, nor diluted with water. Particular attention should be paid to preventing the ingress of foreign matter and dirt (particles of old material from the mixer, small stones, etc.).

Required Tool

Puttying is not such a complicated process and can be done independently. Various tools are required for the job.

1. different sizes from small to large (some areas of the walls will require spatulas up to 60 cm long). The blades of working spatulas should be even and smooth, without nicks. If your spatulas do not meet this requirement, lightly sand the surfaces with fine sandpaper.

   

2. , it will be needed to apply a hefty portion of putty on especially large irregularities and cracks in the walls.

   

3. . This tool is useful when repairing accidental damage to a fresh layer of putty. Due to the elasticity of the material and its small size, the spatula is convenient for applying small portions of putty to the surface and allows you to level the recesses without creating new irregularities.

   

4. Level .
5. . Fine-grained sandpaper will be very useful for the final grouting of completely puttied walls. And coarse sandpaper is useful before applying the first layer of putty mixture, it is good to rub the walls with such paper, removing irregularities and roughness.

   

6. , firmly fixing and holding the abrasive. It should be remembered that some coatings cannot be sanded after the final layer!

   

7. Primer and priming tools. Brushes and rollers must be clean and free of foreign material.
8. Corner profile or painting grid.

   

Stages of puttying

The whole process of applying putty material can be divided into successive stages.

Stage 1. Removing old paint or wallpaper and cleaning the walls

The main task of this stage is to make the walls as clean as possible. To do this, all stains (rust, dirt, grease) should be removed. Places of localization of mold - treat with specially designed compounds. All decorative and facing materials from the walls must be removed. Remove old plaster. When carrying out the above works, spatulas, building washes and other solutions are used to facilitate the stage of cleaning the walls. The cleaned walls need to be dried, without draft, on average, it takes from 12 to 24 hours to dry.

Stage 2. Primer

Many neglect the priming of the walls, which is absolutely in vain. The surface treated with a primer acquires greater strength and is better suited for puttying, due to the good adhesion of the putty mixture to the primed wall.

“Clean” walls are primed in two layers, if plastering of the walls is supposed to be enough and one layer of primer before puttying. The primer creates a thin film on the surface of the wall and prevents the development of fungus and mold.

To work, you will need two spatulas - the middle one for collecting the working mass from the container and distributing it with a uniform comb over a larger spatula, which will level the putty on the wall. "Working" spatulas may vary depending on the section of the wall.

Experts advise starting work from the left edge and moving clockwise. The wall is puttied with a little overlap, trying to level the putty mixture as much as possible. It is important to avoid applying too much putty. The spatula should be moved diagonally, imitating the movements of car “wipers”, running the tool along the wall at an angle of 30-35 degrees towards you and without too much pressure.

It is important to let each layer dry thoroughly - this will serve as a guarantee of a strong and durable coating.

How to handle corners?

To get a perfectly even angle, you can use a special corner spatula. The main nuance is that the putty mass is applied to the wall itself and leveled with a spatula from top to bottom.

There is an option to use a corner profile, which is glued into the corner before the first puttying or plastering. However, this method is not applicable if the walls are being prepared for painting.

In this case, you can leave more putty in the corners and bring the joints of the wall panels to an ideal state at the final sanding stage.

Stage 3. Applying the first layer of putty

The first layer is usually the densest. If the walls are too uneven, then a special mesh is attached over the entire surface area, which is glued with construction adhesive. If the walls are sufficiently even, then the paint mesh is glued only in the corners (internal and external). The stronger and stiffer the material, the smoother the puttied surface will be.

If there are strobes and deep cracks in the walls, then the putty is first applied locally, having previously primed the cleft, and then the entire wall is treated with putty.

Building brands offer special starting putties for this stage, which have higher elasticity and allow you to apply a layer up to 1 cm thick. But such a layer will dry for at least 24 hours. The recommended starting layer thickness is 5 mm.

Stage 4. Second putty using beacons

This stage of work is similar to the previous one, only in the course of its implementation, the evenness of the wall is constantly checked by a building rule or level. The second layer is much thinner than the first.

An important point: when making the second puttying, you need to “stretch” the surface as best as possible, giving it maximum evenness.

Stage 5. Final third puttying

The thinnest layer, its thickness is not more than 2.5 mm. For this stage, there are also special mixtures, the main task of which is to give the surface smoothness. But, if the previous steps were performed poorly, this layer will not be able to correct the situation.

Stage 6. Final drying

Puttyed walls are dried with closed windows and temperature changes. Sharp fluctuations in thermal conditions and drafts can cause cracks and deformations in the putty coating. Drying using electrical installations and heaters is unacceptable. That is, you need to dry the room with the windows closed, but the interior doors wide open.

Stage 7. Grouting and sanding

To give the wall a final smoothness, it must be sanded using a holder. It is important to understand that when preparing walls for wallpapering, it is necessary to sand with an abrasive with a grain size in the range from P80 to P120. When preparing the wall for painting - from P120 - P150, after which the wall is primed and dried again.

Puttying is not a very complicated process, but it requires patience and certain skills in working with a spatula and tools.

Video - How to properly putty walls?

Each apartment renovation includes the application of a decorative coating that will give the room beauty and comfort. And so that the wall is even before painting or pasting the wallpaper, the master uses various technologies. One of them is wall putty. A person without experience in construction can achieve this goal, so you should pay attention to how to properly putty walls for wallpaper or painting in an apartment, what materials and tools are better to choose, and what types of puttying exist.

What tools are puttying

Small irregularities, cracks and cracks are usually hidden under a layer of putty mortar. Also, puttying the walls increases the adhesion of the surface with the decorative layer. Whoever started work on puttying walls for the first time should acquire a number of tools, without which the process is impossible or very difficult.

To mix the solid components of the putty with water, you need a drill with a mixing nozzle. Only with the help of this tool can you ensure that the mixture is homogeneous and without lumps.

1. Putty is often spread over the wall with a spatula. These tools must be included in the kit. So, a wide spatula will be a great way to quickly putty walls in spacious rooms. But it will be inconvenient in processing corners or narrow spaces next to pipes or a battery. For processing corners, you can use special spatulas.
2. Since the primer precedes the puttying of the walls, devices are also needed for this operation: rollers and brushes.
3. Since house owners rarely boast perfectly even walls, all the recesses on the surface have to be masked by flaws and the surface has to be puttied several times. And when this process is carried out on beacons, in order to correctly distribute the material over a wide surface, the use of a rule is necessary.
4. If there is no confidence in the evenness of the walls, it is worth checking your own eye with a level before starting work.
5. To ensure the smoothest possible surface, for the initial layer of putty you need to use coarse sandpaper, and for the finish coat it will be fine enough.
6. Preparation of mortar for walls is impossible without a special container.

In the process of preparation, it is worth assessing the condition of the wall itself. In new houses, the surfaces of load-bearing structures can be relatively even, and in old-style rooms, traces of destruction in the form of cracks, depressions and protrusions can be seen.

In the presence of large irregularities, it makes sense to perform more than one procedure, but plastering and puttying the walls with your own hands. Complementing each other, these operations will provide the best quality coating and make the job cheaper.

Types of putty

According to the composition, there are several types of putty mixtures. An inexpensive option for finishing would be a composition based on gypsum. It is often used for interior decoration. This coating provides the most even surface without shrinkage.

Since gypsum absorbs water well and gradually breaks down under its action, such wall putty material is not used on walls in rooms with high humidity.

Cement-based putty is resistant to moisture. Knowing the ratio of the main components, such putty is usually prepared by hand, but significant shrinkage is the only drawback of this material. Be sure to monitor the thickness of the layer so that the coating lies evenly.

The best performance in all respects is noted for polymer coatings, but for budget repairs they are unattractive due to the high price.

According to the scope of application, the compositions also have their own classification. The starting mixture is designed to level the surface. It is distinguished by a larger filler that is part of it. But it is still necessary to use a layer up to 20 mm. If this work requires a large thickness and amount of material, it is better to use plaster.

The finishing putty has a finer structure, so the surface after its application becomes more even, but since it is less durable, the layer cannot exceed 4 mm.

For walls without significant flaws, you can use a mixture that combines the features of the starting and finishing composition. Although this product is more expensive in price, experts note the worst performance in terms of properties.

In the work of the master, it is important not only the question of which putty is better to cover the walls, but also how to properly prepare the composition. This process should take at least 10 minutes. It is important that the solution is a homogeneous mass. To do this, first pour water into the container according to the proportions, and then pour the dry mixture.

If lumps have formed in the container, this is a signal to the master that there is not enough liquid in the composition, so he adds and mixes the solution with an additional portion of water.

Wall preparation

Before plastering the walls, they must be prepared. In order to form a good adhesion between the material and the surface, it is necessary to ensure that there are no traces of grease, paint, soot, wax and other contaminants. If on the walls that have been plastered, traces of delamination of the material are noticeable, it is worth removing the unreliable old coating, because a new layer will speed up the process when puttying the walls. Then there is a high probability that such a change will lead to a collapse, and the work will have to be started anew.

When choosing the time to putty the walls, many craftsmen try to avoid seasons accompanied by sudden changes in temperature. Also, wall puttying is not recommended in conditions of strong cooling or freezing of the structure. The solution applied at this time of the year will not hold firmly and evenly.

Here are the main stages of finishing work: immediately before the walls are puttyed, a primer is made with their own hands. This composition is applied to the surface with a roller and evenly distributed. The primer layer should not be too greasy.

The master should check his work for gaps, which, if found, must be eliminated.

Some manufacturers seek to facilitate this process, for which special markers are introduced into the primer composition. With their help, it is easy to detect gaps in the application of the material.

Starting putty

This type of putty on the walls is characterized by a larger filler. It is used when leveling differences in the wall, closing strobes, cracks and small holes. The wall putty technology is simple: the material is taken from the container with a spatula and smeared over the surface. The process of applying putty is easier to start from the corner, and the order involves the distribution of the material over the surface from the bottom up, and the removal of excess mortar in the reverse motion.

The layer should not exceed 1.5 cm. If a thicker coating is required, this is decided by several layers. In this case, each new layer begins to be applied to the wall after the previous one dries.

The answer to the question: how many times it is required to apply putty depends on the condition of the wall.

To achieve the application of the material in a more even layer, you can use a paint grid. This method will make the coating stronger.

If the master needs to putty the walls in several layers, he can use beacons to make the coating even. T-shirts are wooden, plaster or metal slats. Along their edges, the boundary of the putty layer is determined.

When the craftsmen putty using this method, they first measure the surface and mark where the beacons will be located. The level should check that the installed products will be located strictly vertically. Then you need to put a small putty layer of gypsum along the markings and fix the beacons.

After drying, the master starts puttying. In the process of work, the layer is aligned horizontally using the rule. For a final check, you can apply the level again. Masters rarely begin to putty the walls with their own hands in this way due to the high cost of this technology.

After the starting puttying of the walls with your own hands is completed, it remains to apply the finishing layer.

Since a small amount of material is used at this stage of work, it is impossible to hide the defects formed during the application of the starting composition with the finishing composition, so all errors should be corrected before using this type of putty so that the mortar on the wall lies evenly.

After, with the help of a composition with a fine filler, you can enhance the effect.

The following video looks at how to putty walls using the rule:

After the puttying of the walls is finished, it is necessary to grind.

Correction of cracks and irregularities with putty mortar

Your work order is needed in the question of how to putty walls with cracks. To repair these defects in the wall, a gypsum composition is used. It has sufficient elasticity to penetrate into all the voids of the wall.

Before puttying cracks, this defect is increased with a knife or other sharp object. Although this action seems to be the opposite of the intended purpose, it leads to an increase in surface roughness, and this contributes to better adhesion of the composition to the surface.

The process of sealing cracks in the wall is clearly presented in the following video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWuNoYmiaeE.

The difference in puttying for painting and wallpaper

Depending on the further finishing of the room, the technology of puttying the walls may differ. If the preparation is carried out under the wallpaper with your own hands, then after applying the finishing putty layer, grouting and drying, you can start pasting the room.

In the case of applying wall putty for wallpaper, you should not worry too much about minor flaws in the putty surfaces. A layer of paper or vinyl on top will be enough to hide it all. But don't go to the other extreme. No wallpaper can hide those defects that eliminate mortar and spatulas.

In order for the decorative coating to lie flat without wrinkles and bubbles, preparing the walls for thick wallpaper includes 2 layers, and the surface under thin wallpaper should be puttied three times.

A slightly different technology for puttying walls for painting is often used by craftsmen when it comes to subsequent painting of a room. The peculiarity of such a decorative coating is that it will be impossible to hide the unevenness of the wall even with the best paints. That's why when finishing walls for painting, finishing putty is mandatory. Its application and subsequent grinding give the surface such smoothness that the layer of paint lays flat on it.

Question: how to properly putty the walls worries everyone who decides to start repairs. And although some do not consider this process to be mandatory, it is important for better adhesion of the decorative material and ensuring the quality of the work.

For the master, the mixture used in the work directly depends on the location of the repair and the planned budget. So, polymer mixtures are suitable for finishing luxury houses. When using gypsum compositions, it is worth monitoring the humidity of the room, and with cement mortars, the degree of shrinkage should not be overlooked.

When leveling the wall with putty, its own application technology is used. The beginning of work is determined from the corner, and the composition is recommended to be applied from the bottom up. Puttying is preceded by cleaning the wall and a primer. And if the starting composition may be enough when finishing with wallpaper, then before painting it is necessary to apply the finishing mixture, followed by grinding.

Although the process of finishing the wall with putty increases the duration of the repair, it ensures its quality. And the one who lives in this house will not have to be upset because of the quickly peeled off wallpaper or a collapsed layer of plaster, and this is the goal of any master.

October 6, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Not a single rough wall finish, with rare exceptions, is complete without putty, but at the same time, many home craftsmen are “afraid” of this procedure and trust its specialists. In fact, in this work there is nothing super complicated that you could not handle on your own, the only thing is that you first need to familiarize yourself with all its nuances and technology. Therefore, further I will try to tell you in detail how the walls are puttyed.

Why do puttying

First of all, consider what wall putty is for, and whether this procedure can be avoided. After all, the alignment of the walls is carried out even at the stage of their plastering.

In fact, it all depends on the type of subsequent finishing and the characteristics of the plaster itself. If the task of rough finishing is the preparation of surfaces for painting, then puttying is a must. The fact is that plaster only levels the plane of the walls, but does not provide the necessary smoothness of the surface.

In some cases, you can really do without putty. Below are the most common ones:

• if the walls are subsequently finished with tiles or other material that does not require careful surface preparation;
• if the walls are pasted over with wallpaper, while they were previously qualitatively leveled with gypsum plaster.

Putty technology

Stage 1: prepare inventory

For puttying, you need to prepare the following tool:

• spatula 400-600 mm wide;
• narrow spatula 80 mm wide;
• angle spatula;
• malka;
• jointer for abrasive mesh, as well as the abrasive mesh itself and sandpaper;
• drill with mixer nozzle;
• rule;
• plastic bucket.

Externally, the tool for puttying is not much different from a similar tool for plastering. However, there are still some nuances:

• the blades of the spatulas should be thin so that when you press the handle they bend slightly, however, super-flexible canvases are also not suitable for our purposes;
• the blade should be perfectly even, it is desirable that the edges are rounded.

The blades of expensive spatulas from well-known brands are laser cut, as a result of which they are perfectly even. Cheaper stamped items may have a rough blade.

When purchasing materials for putty, keep in mind that all existing putty is divided into two types:

• starting - applied with the first layer to smooth out irregularities.
• finishing - more elastic, designed for application in a thin layer.

In addition, the composition of putties is also different, on which their performance depends. We will not consider in detail all existing types of putties, since separate articles on our portal are devoted to this topic.

The only thing I note is that the highest quality polymer putties are. They are the most flexible, making them comfortable to work with. In addition, these coatings are resistant to moisture.

It is thanks to them that the painted walls can be perfectly smooth and without any flaws. If you need to prepare the walls for wallpapering, you can use a cheaper starting putty, for example, on a gypsum basis.

In the bathroom or kitchen, where the humidity level will subsequently increase, you can apply a starting coat with white cement, i.e. cement-based putty.

Stage 2: preparing the walls

Puttying the walls implies that the main preparatory work, such as removing the old finish coating and leveling the walls, has already been completed. But, nevertheless, some procedures still need to be performed.

Therefore, first of all, consider how to prepare the walls for puttying:

1. preparation should begin with cleaning the walls from dust. To do this, they need to be wiped with a damp cloth or sponge;
2. then the surface must be primed. The primer is applied to the surface in a thin layer using a paint roller or paint brush. In the process of priming, avoid the occurrence of streaks or accumulations in certain areas of the walls.

After the surface has dried, the procedure must be repeated.

This completes the preparation of the walls. Now you need to prepare the tools - clean them of dust, if necessary, wash and dry.

Stage 3: applying the starting putty

So, with the preparation we figured out. Now let's look at how to properly putty the walls. The most important thing in this matter is gradualness.

A common mistake made by beginners is that they try to fix all the defects on the wall at once. But, if the flaws are serious, it is impossible to do this. You should start by eliminating the most serious irregularities, for which we need a starting putty.

You can putty walls at a temperature of at least 10 degrees Celsius.

Due to the large grain of the filler, the finishing layer can be applied at a time up to 7-10 mm thick. The exact data is indicated on the packaging with the composition.

If you purchased the putty in dry form, before puttingtying the walls, it must be diluted in water. This is done as follows:

1. prepare a clean bucket and pour the dry mixture into it;
2. further, clean water at room temperature should be gradually poured into the bucket with the mixture and gradually stirred with a mixer until a creamy consistency is formed. The exact proportions are indicated on the packaging.

Now you can get to work. Keep in mind that you can work with putty for about 40 minutes from the moment it is prepared, until it begins to thicken and lose elasticity.

The puttying technique is as follows:

1. Gather putty with a small spatula on a wide spatula so that it is located in a small lump in the center of the blade. It is not worth typing too much solution, since in this case it will be more difficult to work;
2. then take the spatula in your hand so that the thumb rests on the front of the blade (in the direction of travel), and the other four fingers on the back of the blade. You can bend your little finger and ring finger to hold the handle more firmly, as shown in the photo above;
3. then place the spatula with a blade on the wall and tilt it down so that an acute angle forms between the wall and the canvas. It should be noted that the angle of inclination is very important, since the thickness of the putty layer that will lie on the wall depends on it. In the process of work, you yourself need to feel how the angle of inclination affects the thickness, and, accordingly, control it;

1. now you need to make a smooth and fairly fast movement with a spatula from top to bottom. In this case, the pressure on the tool should be the same both at the beginning of the movement and at the end, but the angle of inclination can change as needed.
   As a result, a smooth, even surface should be obtained on the wall.
2. after applying the putty on the walls, the corners should be leveled with an angled spatula. To do this, apply putty with a small spatula along the entire length of the corner, and then draw it with an angular spatula.

When applying the starting layer, all strokes should overlap. Thanks to this, you can avoid transitions and bumps.

According to this principle, all walls are puttied. The first coat is usually applied in vertical strokes, starting with the most uneven areas.

After the first layer of putty has been applied, you need to wait until the wall surface dries. Novice home craftsmen are usually interested in how much putty dries. Drying time depends on the type of putty.

For example, an acrylic-based composition with a starting thick layer dries out for about a day. Approximately the same amount dries up and a mixture based on gypsum. A thin layer can dry in a few hours.

If a hole has formed in the drywall, it can also be puttied with a starting putty. The only thing is that you first need to glue a drywall patch on the back of the wall. The same starting putty is usually used as glue.

After the putty has hardened, the walls are cleaned after puttying. To do this, it is necessary to fix the mesh on a jointer with the abrasive number P80 - P120 and wipe with it all the significant irregularities of the starting layer.

It should be noted that grinding is a simple procedure, however, in order to achieve a high-quality result, you need to know how to remove sagging and other flaws. Otherwise, you can only spoil the surface of the walls.

Grinding is done in a circular motion. At the same time, try to ensure uniform pressure on the jointer..

Many craftsmen, of course, are interested in how to check the quality of wall finishing with putty? This is done very simply - you need to attach a rule to the wall, while you can shine a flashlight on the wall. As a result, all irregularities will be clearly visible.

In the process of drying the putty, it is necessary to provide favorable conditions - to exclude drafts and direct sunlight on the walls. The use of a hair dryer is also unacceptable. Otherwise, cracks will appear on the surface of the putty.

Step 4: Applying the finish coat

I note right away that puttying the walls can be done in several layers. However, then we will immediately proceed to applying the finishing layer, since all subsequent layers of the starting putty are applied according to the scheme described above.

Before you start applying the starting putty or any subsequent layer in general, you need to prepare the walls with your own hands. This is done as follows:

• first of all, you need to clean the walls of dust - wipe them with a damp cloth or sponge;
• after that, the surface must be primed according to the scheme described above.

After the surface has dried, you can start applying the starting layer. Let me remind you that the task of this procedure is to eliminate the smallest defects that remained on the walls after applying the starting layer.

This is done as follows:

1. before applying the putty, be sure to rinse and wipe the tool;
2. then type the finishing putty on a large spatula, then press it against the wall at an angle of about 20 degrees. This time the canvas should be vertical;
3. now apply the mixture from left to right. In some areas, it is more convenient to take the spatula in your left hand and move from left to right. If necessary, putty can be applied from top to bottom.

The mixture should lie down in an even layer about two millimeters thick;

1. further, according to the scheme described above, the corners are aligned.

Novice craftsmen are often interested in how to remove the remnants of putty from spatulas after completion of work. To do this, you need two spatulas - just run the blade of one tool along the canvas of the second and shake off the composition. Do the same procedure with the second spatula, as a result of which both tools will be almost perfectly clean.

Stage 5: sanding

Even the most professional masters cannot apply the finishing layer so that the surface of the walls is absolutely perfect. Therefore, after the completion of puttying, finishing grinding is performed, the task of which is to eliminate even the smallest flaws.

Of course, this procedure is required only if the surface is to be painted. If the finishing will be done with wallpaper, and there are no serious flaws on the surface, this operation can be omitted.

For final grinding, you should use a mesh with an abrasive number of at least 150. The jointer must first make circular movements, and then crosswise to remove traces of circular movements.

To check the quality of grinding, you need to bring a lamp or flashlight at an acute angle. When you achieve the desired result, you need to wipe the walls from dust and cover them with primer for subsequent painting.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to putty the walls with your own hands.

Conclusion

Puttying the walls as a whole is a fairly simple operation, the only thing is that it requires strict adherence to technology. In addition, to achieve a high-quality result, you need to "fill your hand." Therefore, start work with the least critical areas - this will allow you to gain the necessary experience.

If you have any questions about sanding the walls, ask them in the comments, and I will definitely answer you.

October 6, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Puttying the walls is a stage of repair before finishing, which can be done by hand. The main thing is to choose the right composition and know the algorithm of work, how to putty the walls.

Wall putty is classified according to several criteria. According to the composition, the following types of funds are distinguished:

• plaster material. The composition is well applied, hides surface defects and levels the base. The tool does not shrink and has an acceptable price. However, the material is not used in rooms with high humidity.
• Cement agent. The product is moisture resistant, so the composition is recommended to be used in a room with high humidity (bathroom, kitchen). The disadvantage is a high degree of shrinkage.
• polymer composition. The product is easy to apply, does not shrink and is moisture resistant. The disadvantage is the high price.

According to the sequence of application, the agent is classified as follows:

• Starter product. It is a coarse-grained composition. The product is recommended to be applied to the surface after priming. When the question arises of how to putty a brick wall, then this composition cannot be dispensed with. The tool hides defects and levels the building base. The composition is applied to the wall, with a layer of 5 mm, and with numerous surface defects, the thickness can even be 20 mm.
• The final composition is a fine-grained product. The product is applied to the surface after cleaning the building base and priming. The product is recommended for use for surface leveling and a better finish. Layer thickness - 1 mm.
• Universal product. Used for both draft and final work.

Considering the question of how to putty the walls, it is necessary to talk about the classification according to the degree of readiness. The dry mixture and the finished product are isolated. The second tool is used immediately after opening the bucket. The material is easy to apply, so it is recommended for non-professional craftsmen to putty the walls with such a product. The disadvantage is the high price. The budget option for putty is a dry mix. The disadvantage is that it needs to be cooked, and this requires a construction mixer or a drill with a mixer nozzle.

In addition to the main compositions discussed above, specific products are also distinguished:

• Adhesive compounds. The products contain drying oil, adhesives and chalk components. The material is easy to apply and has high strength.
• Oil adhesive products. The products contain adhesives, drying oil, chalk components, acrylates and a plasticizer. The composition is recommended for use on wooden and concrete surfaces. The material can only be used indoors.
• Latex products. The composition includes calcite components, plasticizers and acrylates. The product is recommended to be used indoors for wooden and concrete building bases.
• acrylic compositions. When the question arises, what is the best way to putty a surface, many professionals recommend these products, since such materials are suitable for all types of surfaces. Acrylic putty is an environmentally friendly product that does not crack after drying.
• Facade facilities. Compositions are recommended for use for outdoor work. The product has increased moisture resistance and resistance to temperature extremes.
• Oil products. The products contain chalk and desiccants (auxiliary components that speed up drying). This composition is recommended for use in rooms with high humidity. The product is used before applying oil and water-based paint.

Why putty walls?

For non-professional craftsmen, the question often arises - why putty walls and ceilings? This step gives the following results:

• the surface is leveled;
• defects are masked;
• the consumption of finishing materials (glue or paint) is reduced;
• the pores of the base are filled;
• improves the adhesion of the surface to the finish;
• peeling of the finish coating from the base is prevented;
• the operational period of finishing is extended;
• the surface is strengthened.

Puttying algorithm

Instructions for the use of putty require careful study, especially if the repair is performed by an amateur.

Necessary tools and materials

To apply the composition you will need:

• putty;
• primer;
• a set of spatulas for applying putty (as in the photo below);
• roller, brush or spray gun for primer;
• sandpaper for grinding the surface;
• a container for preparing a solution, if a dry agent is used;
• drill with a mixer nozzle or a construction mixer.

Preparation of the composition

If a dry primer is used, then dilute the mixture with water in the proportions indicated on the package, stir and apply to the surface. The finished composition does not need to be prepared. Use it for its intended purpose immediately after opening the package. The situation is similar with putty. Apply the finished product immediately to the walls. In this case, you can not hesitate, because the composition quickly hardens. If you use a dry mix, then the product needs to be prepared:

• place the composition in a container and add half the required amount of water to it;
• mix the solution with a drill with a mixer nozzle or a construction mixer;
• gradually add the remaining water to the composition;
• stir the product with the tool.

After 15-20 minutes, use the solution for its intended purpose.

Preparation of the building base

Wall puttying lessons say that work begins with surface preparation. Release the building base from the old finish. Next, clean the surface of dust with a construction vacuum cleaner. You can sweep the walls with a broom or brush and rinse with water. After that, treat the base with a degreasing solution and leave to dry. Then apply a primer. Apply the agent in two layers. After each application, take a break to dry the composition.

Applying the starter

Apply the starter after the primer has set. The layer thickness depends on the surface defects. If the base just needs to be leveled and there are small cracks on the wall, then the product is applied, 5 mm thick. In the presence of large defects, the layer thickness may be 2 cm. After each application of the product, take a break to allow the composition to harden. Next, clean the base. To do this, use sandpaper. Work in a respirator and goggles so that the dust from stripping does not enter the upper respiratory tract and eyes. Next, prime the surface to clean the building base and improve the adhesion of the wall and material.

Surface treatment with finishing compound

After the primer dries, apply a finishing putty. The composition will finally level the surface and give the wall smoothness. Layer thickness - 1 mm. When the product hardens, clean the surface with sandpaper. After sanding, prime the building base again. Apply primer in two coats. After the primer dries, you can proceed to the next stage of work.

The video in this article will show you how to properly putty walls.

putty cost

When it comes to how much it costs to putty walls, it is important to understand that the price depends on the type of composition, manufacturer and packaging. The finished composition is more expensive than the dry mixture. In addition, a popular brand sets a high price for their products. A tool from a less popular manufacturer is much cheaper, although it has the same characteristics. Therefore, the cost of putty varies from 300 to 800 rubles per kilogram.