Schemes for flooring on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bath

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• with support on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on logs;
• based on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options would be better and easier?

In homes without a basement, ground flooring is a popular solution for all ground floor spaces. Floors on the ground - cheap, simple and easy to perform, it is also beneficial to arrange in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. Simple design, application modern materials, placement in the floor of the heating circuit (warm floor), make such floors comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of the floor on the ground may be less than that of the floor above the ventilated underground.

It is better to refuse the floor on the ground if it is necessary to backfill with soil at too high a height, more than 0.6-1 m. The cost of backfilling and compacting the soil in this case may be too high.

The floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on a pile or column foundation with a grillage, which is located above the surface of the earth.

Three basic schemes for laying floors on the ground

In the first variant concrete monolithic reinforced slab floor rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this version, monolithic reinforced concrete slab The floor plays the role of a floor slab and must be calculated for the standard load of the floors, have appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as a temporary formwork when constructing a reinforced concrete floor slab. Such a floor is often referred to as a "suspended ground floor".

A suspended floor on the ground has to be done if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is the floor on the foundation - a slab, when a reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building, serves as a support for the walls and the base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or laying wooden lag between bearing walls supported on loose soil.

Here, the floor slab or logs are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the last option to correctly call the floor on the ground, which will be our story.

Floors on the ground should provide:

• thermal insulation of premises from the conditions of energy saving;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against penetration into the premises of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon;
• prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensate inside the floor structure;
• reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling a soil cushion for a floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-porous soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, then the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for the cushion device: sand, fine gravel, sand and gravel, and at a low level ground water- sandy loam and loam. It is advantageous to use the soil left in the area from, the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The soil of the pillow is carefully compacted in layers (not thicker than 15 cm.) by tamping with spilling the soil with water. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if a mechanical rammer is used.

Large gravel should not be placed in the pillow, broken brick, pieces of concrete. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the pillow from bulk soil is recommended to be made within 300-600 mm. Compact the bulk soil to a state natural soil still fails. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of loose soil can lead to too much and uneven subsidence of the floor.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted rubble or expanded clay in the pillow. This underlying capping layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles with a size of less than 4 mm in this layer should be no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protection from gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay with a thickness of 18 cm. in terms of heat-saving capacity corresponds to 50 mm. foam. For protection against punching of insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor designs are laid directly on the backfill, a leveling layer of sand is poured over the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the size of the backfill fraction in thickness.

Prior to filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water and sewer pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes of the soil ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for mounting pipes in them in the future.

Ground floor construction

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• ground floor With concrete screed ;
• ground floor with dry screed;
• ground floor on wooden beams.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive in the device, but more reliable and durable than other designs.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Laid on a soil cushion ground filter materialmoisture contained in freshly placed concrete (eg. polyethylene film thickness not less than 0.15 mm.). The film is put on the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, on overall height all layers of the floor are fixed separating edge layer from strips with a thickness of 20 - 30 mm cut from insulation boards.
3. Then arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete of class B7.5-B10 on crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer designed for sticking waterproofing. The radius of the junction of concrete to the walls 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is laid in the lower part of the slab with a protective concrete layer of at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations, it can alsouse steel fiber length 50-80 mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. At the time of hardening, the concrete is covered with a film or poured with water. Read:
4. For hardened concrete floor preparation bonded waterproofing. Or two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen basis are laid on the mastic with each layer being placed on the wall. Rolls are unrolled and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture, and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The waterproofing layer of the floor must always be connected to a similar waterproofing layer of the wall. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of hydro-gas insulation laying insulation boards. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably the best option for ground floor insulation. Styrofoam is also used, with a density of at least PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage). Styrofoam eventually collapses upon contact with bitumen and alkali (these are all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying the foam on polymer-bitumen coating one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by heat engineering calculation.
6. On the insulation layer laying underlayment(for example, a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to the moisture contained in the freshly laid concrete floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a "warm floor" system (or without a system). When underfloor heating, it is necessary to provide expansion joints in the screed. Monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. performed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf / cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The grid is laid in the lower part of the layer. Read: . For a more thorough leveling of the surface of the concrete screed, especially if the final floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling mortar from factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 cm.
8. For screed installing a clean floor.

This is a classic floor on the ground. On its basis, various versions are possible - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floor on the ground is often done without a layer concrete preparation . A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a base for the sticker roll waterproofing on a paper or fabric basis, impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation as a waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the soil cushion.

A profiled membrane is a high-density polyethylene (PVP) sheet with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or in the form of a truncated cone) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. Available in density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with a width of 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed to the sandy base, without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into the sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying thermal insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes withstands without breaks the movement of workers and vehicles for transportation concrete mixtures and solutions (excluding tracked vehicles).

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand cushion spikes down. The spikes of the membrane will lock into the pillow.

The seams between the overlapped rolls are carefully glued with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which makes it possible to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If extruded polystyrene foam boards with profiled joint joints are used for the construction of the thermal insulation layer, then such boards can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Bedding of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

The polymer film of waterproofing in this embodiment is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If a upper layer soil cushions are poured out of expanded clay, then you can abandon the layer of insulation under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with bulk density 250–300 kg / m 3 it is enough to make a heat-insulating layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with a bulk density of 400–500 kg / m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation capacity, you will have to lay a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers with a thickness of 15 cm and compacted with a manual or mechanical rammer. The easiest way to compact is multifraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. Wet expanded clay decrease thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to arrange a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Expanded clay concrete is coarse-pored without sandy encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a waterproof cement capsule.

Durable, warm and with low water absorption will be the base for the floor, made of coarse-pored claydite concrete without sand.

Ground floor with dry screed

In floors on the ground as the upper bearing layer, instead of a concrete screed, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum-fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises of the first floor of the house more simple and cheap option there will be a floor installation on the ground with a dry combined floor screed, Fig.5.

The floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in wet rooms - a bathroom, a boiler room.

The floor on the ground with a prefabricated screed consists of the following items(positions in Fig. 5):

1 - Flooring - parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed from prefabricated elements or gypsum-fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous-fibrous mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 - Expansion dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Concrete reinforced base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The device for adjoining the floor to the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Lacquer coating parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Adhesive and primer for parquet, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from prefabricated elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.
6. Water-dispersion adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced concrete screed class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of PSB 35 foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam, according to the calculation thickness.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. Outer wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay the insulation in a strip along the outer walls (pos. 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for the floor without underfloor heating (without warm floors).

The thickness of the floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation in the floor, along the perimeter of the outer walls, with a tape, at least 0.8 wide m. Outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of up to 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the outer walls, depends quite strongly on the outside temperature. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and plinth.

The soil temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes must be insulated. For this, it is recommended to arrange thermal protection at two boundaries (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate outside the basement and foundation of the house to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation in the floor structure along the perimeter of the outer walls. The width of the insulation tape along the outer walls is at least 0.8 m.(pos.11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that the total resistance to heat transfer in the floor - ground - basement section should not be less than the same parameter for outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the basement plus floor insulation must be no less than the thickness of the outer wall insulation. For climate zone in the area of ​​Moscow, the total thickness of the foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the outer walls.

When choosing the dimensions of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that the insulation of the foundation helps to reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its sole.

it minimum requirements to floor insulation on the ground. It is clear that the larger the size of the heat-insulating layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Lay thermal insulation under the entire floor surface in order to save energy, it is absolutely necessary only in the case of underfloor heating in the premises or the construction of an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room is useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor surface. The heat absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the soles of the feet). This is especially important if the finishing floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W / (m 2 ° С). A calculator to calculate this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on logs on a concrete screed

Base plate made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. on a layer of crushed stone, compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden bars - logs with a minimum section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., it is recommended to lay on the waterproofing layer in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By sliding or pushing the linings, the height of the lag is adjusted. Span between adjacent support points lag no more than 900 mm. Between the lags and the walls should leave a gap of 20-30 mm.

The joists lie freely without attachment to the base. At the time of installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary bonds.

For the device of the subfloor, they usually use wood boards- OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the plates is not less than 24 mm. All joints of the plates must necessarily rely on the logs. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the plates between adjacent lags.

The subfloor can be made from a grooved floorboard. Such a floor made of high-quality boards can be used without a floor covering. Permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the lags. Plates from mineral wool be sure to cover the top with a vapor-permeable film, which prevents the penetration of microparticles of insulation into the room.

Rolled waterproofing from bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials applied in two layers on the concrete underlying layer by melting (for welded roll materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. On device pasting waterproofing it is necessary to provide longitudinal and transverse overlapping of panels not less than 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground floor space on the ground along the logs, slots in the baseboards must be provided in the rooms. At least two opposite corners of the room leave holes with an area of ​​20-30 cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on the logs on the posts

There is another constructive scheme of the floor - this is wooden floor on the ground on logs, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5.:
1-4 - Elements of the finishing floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden log.
9 - Wood leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

The device of the floor on the logs along the columns allows you to reduce the height of the soil cushion or completely abandon its device.

Floors, soils and foundations

Floors on the ground are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If heaving, then the floor in winter and spring can "walk" under the influence of forces.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this, and the underground part

The design of pile foundations at bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the device of a cold base. Warming the soil under the house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in the house on pile foundation can be recommended only for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils Location on.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is also necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multi-layer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the basement and load-bearing part walls bypassing the wall and floor insulation.

Advantages wooden floors- a lot: they are distinguished by elasticity, noiselessness, warmth. They are attractive in appearance, non-slip and easy to repair, which is quite important, since a considerable number of seams and the risk of cracks are their constant “fellow travelers”. The key to durability, strength and evenness is competent and quality training grounds.

The technology of the device of a wooden floor is primarily determined load-bearing structure. With all their diversity, they can be classified into two types: by screeds (monolithic or prefabricated) or separate by lags.

Floor installation on a concrete base

The device of a wooden floor on concrete involves the performance of a certain type of work.

Determination of screed moisture

The concrete base must be sufficiently dry - the normative humidity is less than 3%.

Boards can be mounted on a fresh screed at the earliest after three months.

To assess the degree of moisture content of concrete, there are special portable devices. However, you can check the condition of the screed, albeit with some error, very in a simple way. A polyethylene film (1x1 m) or a square of transparent plastic (30x30 cm) is hermetically glued to its surface with adhesive tape and after 24-48 hours it is checked for the presence of condensate on inside or a dark, damp stain on concrete. Slight or no condensation, as well as stains, allow you to start laying the floor.

Base Leveling

Uneven surfaces can cause floorboards to squeak or sag. To check the level of inclination and evenness, use a 2-meter rail and building level which are applied to the concrete surface in several places. The level will indicate the slope, and the gaps under the rail will indicate low areas.

Small defects, elevations and depressions are eliminated very simply:

• low - level with bulk mixtures;
• high areas are removed by grinding.

Steam and waterproofing device

The finished screed is treated with a primer. It performs two functions at the same time: it impregnates and envelops the surface, creates a vapor barrier. If the cement-sand layer is well dried, then a one-component polyurethane primer mixture is used as a primer, and for new or insufficiently dried layers, a 2-component epoxy mixture is used, which is applied in several layers. Work continues after the primer has dried.

Some prefer more traditional way waterproofing with roofing felt or polyethylene. Insulation sheets are laid on concrete with an overlap of at least 10-20 cm and glued together with construction tape or mastic. If the rooms located below the floor have high humidity, it is better to lay the insulation in two layers, using bituminous mastic.

It is also recommended to install a wooden floor with insulation and sound insulation. Additional pluses - pleasant to the touch, warm and prevents the spread of extraneous noise. To perform thermal insulation is quite simple:

• if the floor will be laid on plywood, then materials such as polyethylene foam are used;
• when mounting the logs, a heater is laid between them, say, mineral wool slabs.

What will be the next step is determined based on the selected mounting option.

floorboard bonding technology

It involves laying boards directly on the screed. Perhaps this is the simplest and most common technology in the world today. This technique is perfect for private sector buildings, new buildings or any other where there is no need to raise or level the base.

Among the advantages of this design should be noted:

• this technology is much cheaper than any other method;
• there is no loss in the height of the room, since the floor rises only by the thickness of the wooden covering;
• anyone can assemble it, its installation is so simple;
• this type of construction is ideal for the installation of "warm floors".

On the concrete surface apply glue, for example, one-component elastic polyurethane adhesive, modified with silane.

The second layer is laid with a polypropylene or polyethylene film, not less than 10 mm in thickness. To ensure the required thickness in the case of a thin film, it is spread in several layers, which must overlap each other. Along the perimeter, it is necessary to ensure a small entry of the film onto the walls.

The film is covered with glue on top, on which they lay floor material. The wooden floor is opened with varnish, oil, paint, etc.

What to pay attention to when installing

• the base must be smooth and durable, without cracks; magnitude tolerance- 3 mm for every 2 sq. m;
• not recommended for alignment, since their incompatibility with glue is not ruled out, which can undermine the reliability of the structure;
• for better fixation over the coverage area, a load is used;
• between cover and doorways, walls, thresholds and columns, it is necessary to have expansion gaps of 1.0–1.5 cm, fill them with a cork compensator.

To ensure sound and heat insulation, it is necessary to lay an additional layer of insulation - most often it is a technical cork or isolon. It is located directly under the floor covering on a polypropylene film coated with adhesive.

Laying on plywood

To level the base, use 12–18 mm moisture-resistant plywood or OSB boards. Standard sheets are cut into strips (width 40–80 cm) on the smaller side and laid diagonally to the future direction of the coating, leaving gaps of about 4 mm. The fragments are glued, after which they are fixed to the screed: either with the help of self-tapping screws, or they are shot with dowels. Before laying the wooden floor, the plywood sheet is roughly sanded and cleaned of dust.

Advantages and features of technology

• used to equalize height deviations up to 10 mm;
• this leveling method is much cheaper than using leveling compounds;
• this way you can equalize the height of the floor in different rooms.

During installation, the following instructions must be observed:

• plywood layer thickness or OSB boards must be at least equal to the thickness of the boards laid on top;
• to increase adhesion, the surface of the sheets is ground and primed.

Laying on logs

In cases where the horizontal deviation is more than 1 cm, a more complex technology is used - laying along logs, which are mounted in increments of not less than 50-60 cm.

Attaching the lag to the base can be done in several ways:

• with screws and dowels- their heads must be “drowned” lower than the surface level by 3-4 mm;
• gluing - for this, adhesive or bitumen-containing mastics are used.
• for soundproofing pads, preferably fiberboard.

This design makes it possible

• device for additional thermal insulation with laying insulation between the log;
• leveling the base with a significant difference in height;
• avoid the processes of leveling the concrete surface itself.

This design, however, reduces, and significantly, the height of the room.

A more advanced technology is the use of adjustable logs in the floor structure, in which the installation height is changed by simply rotating the bolt.

The most common way to create a smooth floor covering is a concrete screed. It can be made using mixtures various formulations, in one or two stages. The screed can perform specific functions, have additional reinforcement, be applied to different types coverings - soil, concrete slab or wooden floors. Consider some types of work and technology that will allow you to independently carry out all the work with a little effort.

Briefly described, there are four main types of screed.

1. adhesive screed. A layer of a new cement-sand mixture is applied to a material similar in parameters. Most often - on an old screed or concrete slab.
2. waterproofed. The screed is laid on the insulator layer. Most often it is polyethylene. This is how good protection the bottom layer from moisture penetration. This method is often used when applying a screed to an absorbent base - sand or soil.
3. Thermally insulated. The screed is very thin, fragile, a layer of thermal insulator is laid under it, sometimes also a waterproofing agent. Similar work is carried out before laying the "warm floor" systems.
4. Reinforced coating. Such a screed is similar to a reinforced concrete slab in miniature. A wire mesh is located inside the mixture layer. Sometimes a binder additive - microfiber fiber - is added directly to the concrete composition.

All four types can be combined with each other. Which option to choose depends on the conditions of construction. However, the most common method is a simple adhesive screed.

Screed technology

Required tool:

• hydraulic level or laser pointer;
• standard spirit level;
• a pair of two-meter rules, one with a level, the other with a pen;
• shovel;
• container for mixing the mixture;
• powerful drill or puncher;
• nozzle "mixer";
• roulette.

Necessary materials:

The very first step in the laying work is a thorough cleaning of the existing coating. It is necessary to remove all debris and dirt, if possible - vacuum. If it is not possible, carefully work with a broom, trying not to raise dust and wetting the surface.

The stage of marking the room to the level of the future floor should be done carefully and slowly. If there is laser level , work will be easier. You just need to put the device in the middle of the room and mark the received marks on the walls.

Working with the hydraulic level is more difficult. It is better to do it together. First, the most high point existing floor. The rest of the screed is marked from it - one person holds the end of the hydraulic level, the second departs sequentially along the surrounding walls and puts marks at a distance of about 50-100 cm.

It is easy to quickly determine the highest point.

1. At a height of about a meter from the floor, a mark is made in any corner.
2. Using the hydraulic level, the same marks are made in the remaining corners.
3. All received points are connected by any accessible way- with the help of a long rule, with a thread smeared with blue.
4. With the help of measurements with a tape measure, the highest point is determined. It is where the distance from the lines to the floor will be minimal.

Lighthouses are placed at a distance of 100-150 cm from each other. The easiest way is to use self-tapping screws. plastic stopper it is embedded in a pile of mixed plaster, and with the help of a screw it is easy to adjust the height by simply twisting or unscrewing it. The uniformity of the installation is controlled using a spirit level or a long rule. The lighthouse must be level.

After checking each beacon and the total area (the direction of the level setting is perpendicular to the beacons), the gypsum mixture must be allowed to dry.

Perimeter waterproofing

If there are gaps between the wall and the floor, you need to protect the lower room from water. The perimeter can be smeared with mastic, a strip of film can be laid or gaps can be filled mounting foam. They do the same if the floor has through holes, for example, a hole in the center of the room for lighting wires or a crack in the slab.

Preparing the base for pouring

If the screed is made in an adhesive way on a concrete slab or an existing cement-sand mixture, the base is primed. Usually use the same penetrating primer as for painting or gluing ceramic tiles.

In the case of insulated screeds, a spacer layer is laid for thermal protection or waterproofing. For a steel wire-reinforced coating, a mesh of rods is laid at a distance from the existing floor level. As "props" you can use the same gypsum - small piles of approximately equal height.

The mixing process is easy. The main thing is thoroughness.

First, dry ingredients are gently mixed with a trowel. After a little water is added. Here you can already interfere with the help of a drill and a mixer nozzle. We add water little by little until the solution acquires the consistency of thick sour cream. If you take a handful and lightly squeeze in the palm of your hand, a lump of stable shape should form.

It is better to start work from the sector farthest from the door. A layer of the mixture is applied between two beacons and carefully smoothed out with a rule. At the first stage, the level is filled flush with the beacon profiles. To finish, a small layer is applied that will hide them. This work is best done using a rule with a pen, overwriting several sectors at once.

Exposure time

If a mixture based on cement and sand is used, it must be remembered that the drying time is quite long - about 12-14 days.

In order for the screed to acquire maximum strength and not crack, you need to evenly spray the surface with a small amount of moisture every day. So the coating will acquire the best characteristics.

However, the rapid drying of the screed is also dangerous. If the room is high temperature, low humidity or excessive ventilation, it is better to wet the surface and cover with polyethylene to slow down drying and prevent cracking.

To level the surface and prevent the appearance of fine dust due to abrasion, final finishing is carried out. Using a circular grinder, the surface is freed

from small irregularities and unstable inclusions.

Notes on Coating Performance and Additional Precautions

Minimum screed thickness, excluding additional conditions- 30-50 mm. It is not recommended to make a thinner coating, even if we are talking about a thermally insulating screed for a “warm floor”.

Concrete screed is very durable. This is its advantage and at the same time a disadvantage in some cases - the coating may crack. This happens from a temperature difference, and especially from the shrinkage of a building or structure. To avoid such a danger, security channels are made. These are cuts that are made using a stone circle and a grinder. You can use a special rail, which is laid at the pouring stage.

It is necessary to make cuts or security channels around columns, wall ledges and along the perimeter of the room. The depth should be between 30 and 50% of the thickness of the screed. You can make a grid of channels over the entire area and cover the recesses with sealant to maintain a solid surface.

Some recipes for concrete mixtures

1. The most common and accepted. 3 parts sand to 1 part concrete. Add 0.1 part lime. Mix everything thoroughly before adding water until a mixture of uniform color is formed.
2. Economy option. For work in several layers, for example, floor construction on the ground or in conditions of large elevation changes, it is possible to make the bottom layer of the screed from a coarse-grained composition. Mix 2 parts sand to 1 part concrete. Add to three parts gravel medium or fine fraction. Mix with water.
3. Recipe for thick ties. If the mixture layer is planned to be very large, cement can be replaced with modern lightweight counterparts. Or mix in equal proportions, for example, expanded clay and standard concrete-400. This will reduce the final weight.
4. Finished building mixtures . Today, there are enough options for ready-made dry mixes for creating a screed. They have a number of advantages:

   Screed mixes

   Building mixtures are divided into starting and finishing. The first ones are more coarse-grained and are used to create the main thickness of the screed. The surface is rough and uneven. It is "brought to condition" with the help of finishing mixtures that form an even and smooth layer. The same series includes "self-leveling" screeds - this is a very fine composition that spreads and forms the floor level on its own without the need for leveling.

A high-quality floor device for floor slabs involves comfortable accommodation people in the room.

Scheme of the device wood-chip floor.

Floor base

Classification of floors is made by types of coatings:

• boardwalks;
• parquet;
• linoleum;
• slab.

And by type of structure:

• layered;
• single layer;
• separate hollow;
• separate voidless.

Required tool:

Scheme of overlapping over a ventilated underground.

• grinder;
• plane;
• a hammer;
• trowel;
• cord;
• rule;
• saw;
• fasteners;
• screwdriver;
• roulette.

Layered floor device

Mainly used in . They are made from several layers above colder rooms (basements, garages). A soundproof layer is laid on it, and on it a solid flooring- piece parquet or parquet boards. For sound insulation, fiberboard grades 4, 12, 20 are used.

Single layer construction

Such a floor is made directly on the floor slabs. If irregularities are found, a leveling layer must be made. The material for the construction of a single-layer floor can be bio-resistant linoleum, which is not subject to decay processes. In rooms with high humidity (toilet, bath), a single-layer floor can be made of ceramic tiles or rubber-based linoleum.

Installation of a separate hollow core

Diagram of a soundproof floor.

First, a soundproof layer is laid on the floor slabs, then the logs are strengthened, and the clean floor material is laid on them: parquet boards, grooved boards or wooden shields. If a solid flooring is made of unplaned boards in the room, then fiberboard boards are laid on top, the thickness of which must be at least 20 mm. Logs for the construction of a separate hollow floor on floor slabs must be planed and treated with an antiseptic. The dimensions of the bars (lag) are 80 * 40 mm. Depending on the thickness of the flooring, the distance between the lags is determined. How thinner material, the more often the bars are laid.

The device of a separate voidless floor

Scheme self-laying floor board.

It is built on the basis of a monolithic screed made on floor slabs. The screed is made from a mixture of concrete and porous aggregate class B12.5 with a density grade D1200, the thickness of the screed should be no more than 40 mm. It can't be leveled. cement mortar, irregularities should be simply sanded. Between the monolithic screed and the walls of the room along the perimeter, a gap of 20-30 mm is made, which is filled soundproofing material and subsequently closed with a plinth.

The outer covering of such a floor can be linoleum, pvc tiles, parquet, laminate parquet, fiberboard or other materials. A layer is placed on top of the screed waterproofing material. It is overlapped or the joints are coated with bituminous mortar. Then they put a layer of sound insulation from mineral wool grade 125-150 up to 60 mm thick, fiberboard up to 50 mm thick, sand or expanded clay.

Parquet flooring

Floor plan.

Beautiful appearance, low thermal insulation and soundproofing make parquet (parquet boards, parquet boards, block parquet) a popular material in the construction of floors on floors. The device of such a floor is possible on a solid plank base, fiberboard slabs, cement-sand screeds. The floors look good block parquet made with a Christmas tree pattern with or without friezes.

First you need to mark the rows of the coating so that there is less waste. A layer of glassine is laid on the prepared base, and a beacon "Christmas tree" is laid on it. Focusing on it, a floor covering is made with careful connection and fastening of each parquet plank with forty nails, two driven into the side groove and one into the end groove. With a doboynik deepen the caps into the material.

The device of floors from a piece parquet on couplers is made on a hot or cold solution of bitumen in "christmas tree" without friezes. When laying parquet, if necessary, level it with a special parquet-planing machine or a manual planer; after the guard, skirting boards are installed, the floor is scraped and polished. The floor is slightly moistened before scraping. The laid parquet is rubbed with mastic or varnish.

Linoleum floors

Scheme of insulation of the floor of the first floor.

Linoleum is a material used for flooring. It has qualities such as strength, durability, resistance to impact chemical substances, elasticity; it is easy to clean and wash. For all these qualities, the material is very popular with developers. The disadvantages include susceptibility to deformation - expansion, shrinkage, warping and swelling. To prevent their appearance, linoleum is preliminarily kept in a rolled state for several days to straighten and take the shape of the floor.

The quality of the base for the flooring significantly affects the quality of the linoleum floor. Possessing elasticity, linoleum is able to perceive even the slightest irregularities. Therefore, the ground must be level, clean, dry and solid. The horizontalness of the base must be checked with a special rail. The bases for linoleum can be screeds from a cement-sand mortar, fiberboard boards, chipboard boards, slag concrete, expanded clay concrete and plank floors.

To install a new screed on the floor slabs, a 3: 1 sand-cement mortar is made, which is laid on a hard and durable preparation with a layer of up to 3 cm and leveled with a rule or a trowel along pre-installed guide rails. The surface of the previously made screeds must be clean and even. If necessary, the screed can be leveled by laying a new layer. cement-sand mixture composition 1:2. Admissible humidity of the basis — no more than 10%.

The most time-consuming process is considered to be the process of preparing the bases for sticking linoleum on plank floors made on floor slabs.

Scheme of soundproofing floors.

They must be tough enough. The base boards must not sag. Before sticking linoleum, the base of the floor must be well processed: the lumber must be dry, planed, treated with an antiseptic or drying oil. All cracks must be puttied, cleaned and primed.

When constructing a base made of fiberboard or chipboard, it is also necessary to ensure the rigidity of the base under the slabs with mandatory grouting between them. The slabs are screwed to the wooden base of the floor with screws, their hats are well recessed in the material, and to concrete or cement-sand screed plates are glued with hot bitumen. The surface of the fixed plates is leveled by cutting off the bumps, sealing the seams with mastic, primer and puttying with oil putty. Then linoleum is laid.

Floors made of ceramic tiles

For flooring on floor slabs made of ceramic tiles first, a base is made - a monolithic cement screed with the addition of sand (approximate composition 3: 1; 4: 1), the device of which is carried out along the waterproofing layer. When installing the floor on wooden base it is necessary to stick hot on the flooring bituminous mastic waterproofing, then put a reinforced mesh and put a mortar over it. For the device of a coupler it is necessary to use beacons wooden slats installed in level along the walls of the room. Put the prepared solution between the slats. The horizontality of the screed is checked by the rule, the ends of which must rest on the beacon rails. After the solution has hardened, the slats are removed. The remaining grooves are filled with mortar.

Scheme of overlapping and floor insulation.

Before laying the tiles, they must be sorted by size and color. Make a breakdown of the floor according to the selected pattern of the future coating, after which you should check the squareness of the room with a cord, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner, and then determine the width of the frieze and lay two mutually perpendicular rows according to the pattern dry. The distance between the tiles when laying them should be no more than 2 mm.

If the tiles do not fit completely, they can be cut and laid in a row closer to the wall. According to the marks made on clean floor, lighthouse tiles are laid. Then, along the cord and ruler, corner, intermediate and frieze beacons are installed. On the prepared solution, the seal is made and the first row of tiles is laid. After laying the frieze rows, they begin to lay the tiles of the main pattern of the floor covering. In order not to step on already laid tiles, their flooring starts from the far wall.

The mortar used must be of a plastic consistency, and it is advisable to lay it in an even strip on several rows of tiles at once. Having laid the tile on the mortar, it should be slightly precipitated with light blows of a trowel or hammer on the bar laid on top. Checking the horizontality of the laid tiles is carried out by the rule. The seams between them must be free from mortar. Two days after laying the tiles, they are filled with a creamy solution of cement in water, having previously cleaned the surface. The infusion is performed 2-3 times, as the solution shrinks. The remains of the solution are removed from the surface immediately after completion of work by wiping the tiles with moistened sawdust. Fill the laid tiles with moistened sawdust in a layer of 15-20 cm, and, periodically moistening them, achieve good hardening of the solution.

Installation of laminated parquet floors

Modern building material for flooring on floor slabs is laminated parquet. This is an environmentally friendly coating, reminiscent of wooden parquet, which consists of several layers and is very convenient to use. It is made of dense, water-resistant fiberboards, covered with a layer imitating wood. Planks dimensions: length - 1.2-1.7 m, width - up to 18 cm, thickness - from 6 to 14 mm. Laminate planks are top coated with acrylate or melamine resin to protect against mechanical damage.

Floors made of monolithic reinforced concrete floor slabs have long been known and have proven themselves well in the construction of private and multi-storey buildings. To this day, they are in demand and popular, especially in the construction of cottages. large area. Reinforced concrete hollow core floor slabs have a lot of advantages, the design of these slabs is such that, in addition to evenly distributing the load over the entire surface, they also additionally add rigidity and stability to the building.

General information and advantages of reinforced concrete slabs

The slabs are made of concrete, in which iron fittings are mounted during pouring. The slabs along the length have longitudinal round voids, which, in combination with reinforcement, give the structure huge advantage. Reinforced concrete slab is able to withstand bending, not break under high loads, it is very durable when properly used during construction. Monolithic factory-made slabs meet all the requirements for floors, they are durable and stable at high temperatures. It is very important that the reinforced concrete slab is a good sound insulator and, in addition, retains heat.

Equally important is the fact that the use of slabs in construction greatly speeds up and simplifies the process, they can be installed where no other flooring method is suitable. For example, laying the floors of a private house with an area of ​​more than 100 m² using pouring will take a lot of time, in addition, labor costs, as well as financial costs, will be much higher than when laying the floor with reinforced concrete slabs.

The right choice of plates and calculation

When laying the floor of the first floor, you need to understand that it will be heavily loaded, so it is important to correctly calculate the weight of the structure and take into account everything, up to total weight home and furniture or equipment to be installed on the premises. The thickness of reinforced concrete slabs is standard and equal to 220 mm, but the slabs can be designed for different weight loads depending on their brand. Here the role is played by the reinforcement of the slab and what brand of concrete it is made of.

Reinforced concrete slabs are produced with a length of 2.4-6.8 meters, the width of such slabs, depending on the length, is 1.2-1.5 meters, weight 0.9-2.5 tons. This allows the use of small equipment during construction, cranes up to 3 tons for lifting cargo. It is not difficult to understand which plate you need, marking is put on the surface, for example, PK 8-42-12 plate will be 4.2 meters long, 1.2 m wide, with a weight load of 800 kg / m².

Rules for installing slabs depending on the floor

When laying floor slabs, it is important to consider where they will be laid, because installation rules ground floor different from laying the floor between floors.

In the case of laying the basement, it is necessary first to carry out work on leveling the foundation, namely its upper edge. For this, the upper edge of the foundation is not made of high formwork from boards, here it is necessary to pour a small layer of concrete in order to bring out a perfectly flat surface horizontally. Now a reinforced concrete slab can be laid on such a site.

Laying of plates is carried out taking into account their taper, it turns out Bottom part slabs will fit exactly with the adjacent one. At the top is formed small seam, which must be sealed with cement mortar. Thus, it is practically Smooth surface floor in the shortest possible time. Depending on what kind of flooring you will be laying, you may need to make a thin screed, but for most materials that cover the floor, slab without additional finishing is suitable.

In the case when a reinforced concrete slab is laid as a floor between floors, then an additional reinforced concrete belt must be made on the walls of bricks or blocks. This is something like a seismic belt, which is performed as follows. When the height of the walls is laid out to the desired height, another row is laid, but one layer must be laid to leave the inner end around the entire perimeter, in which the slab will lie, and outside this place will be covered with bricks. Before laying the slab, as in the first case, it is necessary to complete the formwork and pour a thin layer of concrete with reinforcement. As a result, a niche is formed with a small gap for laying insulation materials, where the slab is laid. A thin layer of concrete with reinforcement increases the strength of the surface and evenly distributes the load from the slab along the walls.

Warming

The floor slabs themselves serve as good insulation, since they are located inside the premises of the house, there is no need for their insulation, however, it is necessary to insulate the ends. The slab has a high thermal conductivity, which is undoubtedly good, because the slab of the upper floor conducts heat from below and thus the floor becomes warm. But from the ends the plate will receive cold, so you need to protect it with a layer of insulation. In the niche, which was formed during the reinforcement process, at the junction of the plate to the wall, it is necessary to lay a heater. Then this space, like the rest of the cracks, is filled with concrete.

Insulation must be done, otherwise condensation will form in these voids, which the plate will absorb and gradually collapse. In addition to the destruction of the plate, humidity will appear in the room, and in places where there is reinforcement, rust will appear, which will not close with any putty.

Actually on this process of creating floors and floors finished, now you can start finishing the floor with materials. As already mentioned, it may be necessary to perform a thin leveling layer of screed

With these types of work, construction equipment can significantly help you, for example