Instructions for insulating walls from the inside. Insulation of walls from the inside Insulation of walls from the inside the better to do

Many people suffer from cold in their apartments and think about how to insulate the walls. This business can be done at any time, and if there is a major overhaul, then, as they say, God himself ordered. By insulating houses from the inside, we can protect them from frost in winter, as well as from excessive moisture when it starts to rain. Thermal protection is still considered the main criterion for such work. Today, there are materials and technologies that will help you do the work yourself. If the insulation inside the room is carried out qualitatively, then the heating costs become minimal.

Walls in the corner apartments of high-rise buildings and in private houses suffer the most. Having decided to take care of your apartment or house, you need to get acquainted with the features of the work, find out the technological nuances. We will talk about how to insulate the walls from the inside in a private house.

We warm houses from the inside

To create comfortable living conditions (preservation of heat, getting rid of damp, moldy surfaces), the walls of houses can be insulated both from the inside and outside, from the side of the facade. The most effective is considered to be internal insulation. Especially:

Taking care of the insulation of the house from the inside, it is necessary to choose the right materials that have a vapor barrier. The work must comply with a special technology, otherwise, instead of insulating a private house or apartment in a high-rise building, you will become the culprit of its destruction: mold will appear due to condensation. The fact is that dew point may form- an increase in humidity in the room, when the heating season begins, leads to the appearance of droplets on the walls, in those places where the joints and seams are not insulated.

How to choose the right insulation material for walls?

If you have to deal with the insulation of walls from the inside, you will have to take care of the choice of material. Special requirements are imposed on thermal insulation materials:

expanded polystyrene and mineral wool;
polyurethane foam and ecowool;
penoplex.

It is these building materials that are used if you need to do internal insulation.

If you decide to do the insulation of a private house from the inside with your own hands, try to learn more about the installation features. In addition to printed articles and Internet materials, you can use video tutorials that show in detail all the steps for installing insulation, both frame methods and frameless. Interested homeowners can visually track all stages of work.

In the case when there are no special building skills, it is best to do the work apply to specialized companies Otherwise, you will have to redo everything, and these are additional material costs. Specialists perform work on insulation efficiently, quickly, observing the technology.

The use of mineral wool

Walls can be insulated with mineral wool. It is used most often, although such material cannot be called an ideal option. The point is that after some time mineral wool begins to absorb moisture, so it is not possible to avoid the appearance of damp places. When working with this material, everything should be done according to the instructions, not forgetting to process the joints. In addition, the walls themselves and the insulation must first be impregnated with antifungal compounds. Only in this way it is possible to extend the operation of the insulation for ten years.

Before insulating with mineral wool, a metal frame is mounted on the wall. Plates are installed in the resulting cells, which must be tamped. The surface must be covered with drywall. When choosing mineral wool, do not forget that the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment will decrease.

We insulate the walls from the inside with polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene has recently gained popularity as a heater. This material has:

low specific gravity;
minimum thickness, so installation does not require the installation of a frame;
room humidity does not affect the quality of the material;
Styrofoam is attached with building glue. You can also use dowels or liquid nails. But first, the joint areas are treated with polyurethane foam.

Penoplex - an environmentally friendly material for insulation

Penoplex, another name for expanded polystyrene foam, is an excellent material because it:

Styrofoam as a heater

The inside of the house can be upholstered with foam. For its installation does not require the installation of a frame. Material produced in the form of panels that simply stick directly to the wall. As an adhesive composition, you can take the one with which ceramic tiles are usually glued.

Glue is applied to the foam, then, slightly pressing, a mesh metal reinforcement is installed. The overlap must be at least 15 centimeters. This layer is then plastered or painted, then wallpaper is pasted. Can be used when finishing ceramic or tile.

The choice of insulation depends on the material of the walls

Tired of freezing in winter and you decide to insulate your apartment or private house? Please note that the choice of insulation will directly depend on what material the walls themselves are made of.

If the wall is made of brick, then polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and mineral wool will work more efficiently in this case.
Walls based on foam blocks are usually insulated with polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.
In wooden houses, it is effective to use foam plastic and expanded polystyrene when insulating internal walls.
If the house is made of concrete, then each owner has the right to choose the material that he likes best, since there are no restrictions on the choice of insulation.
For insulation of timber houses it is better to use ecowool, although it will be necessary to install not only a vapor barrier, but also a crate.

Perform insulation inside the house, following special rules. High-quality insulation can be done with your own hands, if you listen to the advice of specialists. First of all, it concerns the walls. When preparing them, you need to perform the following types of work:

Using a building hair dryer, spotlights, infrared lamps, heaters, dry the walls thoroughly.
Check the integrity of the insulating materials, if there is damage, then they should be repaired. Such work is very important to protect the surface from dampness and steam.
All seams that form between the floor slabs, as well as the heat-insulating layer, must be processed.

When preparing the surface, a number of certain preparatory works are performed, which require a special careful approach:

How much does it cost to insulate a house inside?

If you decide to start creating comfortable conditions in your private home with your own hands, then it will be much cheaper than the services of specialized companies. On average, per square meter of insulation will have to pay 450 rubles or more. The cost of a square will depend on what material you used for insulation and what additional work you had to do before installing the insulation.

It should be noted that the internal work on the insulation of the house is not always justified. It is better, of course, to do this outside the building. But if its implementation is impossible for various reasons, then the standards fully allow the insulation of walls in the interior of houses.

Of course, for the sake of comfort and warmth will have to sacrifice square meters, since insulating materials “eat up” part of the area due to their volumes. But, as they say, it is better to live in a slightly reduced house than in cold and damp.

Perhaps modern technologies will soon make it possible to make houses warm, saving space and at the same time getting rid of condensate. So far, it is the technologies and materials listed above that make it possible to solve the existing problems with heat preservation in a private house.

Each owner has his own, individual requirements for how his house or apartment should be. The exception to the rule is heat. Especially in the cold season, when the air temperature outside goes to minus.

With the fact that housing should not only be beautiful, but also capable of maintaining a comfortable temperature even with a big minus, everyone agrees without exception.

The reason for this unanimity lies not only in the desire to avoid the need to be at home in warm clothes that hinder movement.

The main troubles following the freezing of the walls are condensate, mold and fungi that affect the health of residents.

In addition, the walls themselves suffer. If mold and fungus can be eliminated, then restore the quality of the affected wall succeeds not always.

The way out of the situation is internal wall insulation, protection from the cold during frost, and from condensate during periods of thaw.

Advantages and disadvantages of thermal insulation

Usually the culprit decrease in comfortable temperature level indoors are heating systems, poorly insulated windows, or the roof of the house. If the heating, windows and roofing are normal, then the problem is really in freezing walls that require additional thermal insulation.

The indisputable advantages of internal protection of walls from freezing include:

the ability to insulate any room;
performance of work at any time of the year;
the ability to carry out all the work independently (significant savings);
increasing the sound insulation of the home.

The disadvantages include:

mandatory requirements for providing vapor barrier;
the need to use heaters with excessive thickness;
consequences in the form of internal drafts;
the need to create additional ventilation due to increased humidity;

Is it possible to insulate the walls inside the apartment?

Despite the fact that the option of internal insulation seems, at first glance, the most effective and profitable, experts recommend resorting to it only in the most extreme cases if there is no other way out.

If the operating organization promises to carry out external insulation for years, but the residents do not have their own funds, then everything that is not recommended can be done, since is not strictly prohibited.

A significant minus of mineral wool - ability to absorb moisture. The resulting dampness is an excellent breeding ground for pathogenic bacteria. In addition, excess water reduces thermal engineering priorities.

For a panel house, for example, the choice in favor of mineral wool will not be the most successful. However, in the event that it is necessary to insulate the walls of a wooden structure, it is better not to find mineral wool.

This natural organic material is capable of spontaneously remove the resulting steam behind the building outline, protecting the wood used for construction.

Styrofoam

One of the most important characteristics of insulating materials - moisture resistance and low specific gravity.

If mineral wool cannot boast of the ability to withstand moisture, then expanded polystyrene, both foamed and extruded (EPS), is quite satisfies the requirement.

The advantages of the material also include a small specific gravity of the sheets and the absence of the need to install a metal frame.

All it takes is insulation of sheet joints polystyrene foam and walls through the use of polyurethane wool.

The sheets of expanded polystyrene themselves are attached to the wall with glue or dowels.

Styrofoam

Obtained by foaming a suspension polymer.

It has a specific structural structure, which determines its high strength and duration of service life, exceeding the similar characteristic of popular mineral wool.

Polyfoam, despite its high popularity, has both significant pluses and minuses.

Pros:

high resistance to moisture;

excellent thermal insulation properties;

resistant to mold and fungus;

easy to handle and install;

light;

additional waterproofing is not required;

has high resistance to temperature extremes, heat, frost;

provides good sound insulation;

cheap.

Minuses:

needs protection from mechanical damage due to limited mechanical strength;

does not pass air;

fire hazardous;

interaction with nitro-paints and nitro-varnishes should not be allowed;

polyurethane foam

This material is considered a leader among modern heaters due to its reliability. Among the disadvantages of polyurethane foam are noted the need to install frames.

Taking extra security measures in connection with the application of a liquid two-component substance by spraying, as well as plastering with the additional use of nylon nets.

Among the advantages of polyurethane foam: high moisture resistance, minimum curing time, no need to use fasteners.

glass wool

The characteristics are similar to mineral wool. The advantages include a lower cost than mineral wool. The main downside is shrinkage over time. In addition, glass wool is characterized by high fragility of the fibers. This complicates installation and requires careful observance of safety regulations.

Environmentally friendly materials

We are talking about such unusual materials as straw, reeds, gypsum panels. In spite of difficulty in purchasing and the search for a work contractor, this option of heaters is becoming more and more popular.

But if there is no particular desire to search for material and an artist, then you can use at least environmentally friendly materials- cork insulation or fibrolite, which is made from wood chips.

In this article, you can learn how to soundproof walls in an apartment.

Criterias of choice

In order to choose the most successful version of the insulation intended for internal wall insulation, it is necessary first of all pay attention to the following characteristics:

Resistance to high temperatures and open flame (fire safety).

Low thermal conductivity, preventing the outflow of heat from the room.

Safety (absence of toxic substances and toxic impurities).

Durability and the ability to keep the original shape for a long time.

Resistant to moisture and aggressive substances.

Also an important role is played by the material from which the walls are made, and its characteristics.

If the walls are planned to be plastered, then it is best to insulate them with extruded polystyrene foam. Peculiarity - the flammability group of EPPS should not exceed G1.

The choice in favor of expanded polystyrene is also justified minimal usable space.

If the walls are sheathed with drywall, then they can be insulated with mineral wool and other soft insulation, with the obligatory laying of a vapor barrier layer.

It is not recommended to insulate walls in panel houses with foam plastic, due to its high flammability and ability to store moisture.

The main task of the internal insulation of a house made of foam blocks is to provide vapor barrier of thermal insulation material on both sides. Also must be trimmed(second wall). For this purpose, drywall or lining is used.

Accordingly, soft cotton insulation or polystyrene foam will not work. It is best to use polyurethane foam, foam plastic and polystyrene foam.

The wooden house is made of environmentally friendly material, and the choice of insulation is guided precisely by this characteristic. The best option for warming the wooden walls of a private house is laying ecowool. It is also possible to use polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam, which cannot be said about polystyrene foam.

Expanded polystyrene during operation begins to release carcinogenic substances harmful to humans and animals.

Mineral wool is well suited for warming the apartment, if space permits. You can also use foam, provided that a layer of liquid waterproofing is first applied to the prepared wall surface.

However, foam, like foam or foil foam, refers to waterproof materials, increasing the risk of mold and mildew.

Cork material, warm plaster or fiberboard is excellent for insulating the walls of an apartment. This is only a small part of the insulation materials available for sale, so the choice must be made. based on the characteristics of the outer wall of the apartment, as well as options for finishing the room.

How to insulate walls with your own hands?

The algorithm for insulating walls in an apartment from the inside depends on the type of house and the selected insulation. However the main stages of work remain unchanged for any options:

Insulation of walls from the inside with foam: video instruction.

Insulation plaster

Protective leveling layer on the surface of polystyrene insulation created with reinforcing mesh and a special mass designed for this type of material.

Grid, which does not allow the decorative coating to deform in the future, is glued with a thin layer of plaster. Then a thin leveling layer is applied universal weight. The treated surface is left to dry for at least a day.

After drying, the surface can be rubbed. After rubbing, the treated surface is primed. The last stage of work is decoration.

Specialists in thermal insulation of houses agree that, if possible, it is better to insulate the outside. However, if this is not possible, you have to resort to internal wall insulation. In this case, you risk losing the useful area of the apartment and shortening the life of the building due to dampness of the walls. Of course, the degree of risk depends on the choice of insulation materials and installation technology. We will talk about all this in detail in today's article.

The main problem of wall insulation from the inside is that the wall itself does not cease to be exposed to external atmospheric influences: frost, moisture, wind loads. When the insulation is on the inside of the wall, frost penetrates through its thickness and collides with the heat-insulating layer, and a conflict arises between two temperatures - cold street and warm home. As a result of this, condensate begins to form behind the insulation, and since it cannot evaporate anywhere, the porous material of the walls and insulation begin to absorb moisture. The wall from this is gradually destroyed, and the insulation loses its protective characteristics. You end up with a cold house with weakened walls. Brick walls suffer the most from this state of affairs.

To avoid such disastrous consequences, it is necessary to be able to choose the right heat-insulating material. It should be characterized by minimal vapor permeability, not be afraid of moisture, and during its installation there should be a minimum of butt joints (potential leaks and damage). Also, to prevent the accumulation of condensate, a small gap should be left between the wall and the insulation so that moisture can evaporate freely. Many people neglect this particular step, trying to press the thermal insulation against the wall as tightly as possible and save usable space, but this is not worth doing. In any case, you will sacrifice free space, and 5-10 cm will not change the situation much, but the house will stand for a couple of decades longer.

Warming methods and materials

The following materials do not fall under the above requirements for the choice of insulation: mineral wool in rolls, warm plaster, cork, plasterboard panels, liquid ceramics and other products that are not able to withstand moisture changes. Drywall and warm plaster can be used to finish the decorative finish of an insulated wall, but nothing more. To better navigate, remember one simple rule: if the material consists of fibers, can absorb moisture or actively passes steam, it is not suitable for internal insulation of the walls of the house.

Expanded polystyrene in this regard is very popular, and it is used to insulate walls not only inside, but also outside (facades). However, when laying polystyrene foam, a lot of joints and seams are formed, which accelerate the decrease in the tightness of thermal insulation.

Criteria for choosing insulation for walls:

Environmental friendliness - remember that you are going to insulate the house from the inside, so all materials used must be completely safe for health. When laying mineral wool, for example, it is imperative to wear protective gloves, a respirator and goggles so that the fibers do not harm the body. It is non-toxic, but requires careful handling and subsequent high-quality finishing. The material must be safe not only at the time of installation, but also after many years (do not emit toxins during aging).
Fire safety - insulation should not easily ignite or support combustion.
Low thermal conductivity - the lower the thermal conductivity, the better the material retains heat or coolness inside the house. The indicator is determined based on the square of the section, that is, the lower the thermal conductivity, the thinner the thermal insulation should be. Some mistakenly believe that the thicker the insulation, the better, but in reality you risk simply overpaying for more expensive material and at the same time taking up even more free space inside the house.
Moisture resistance - the insulation should absorb a minimum of moisture or not absorb it at all. In this regard, polystyrene occupies a winning position.
Resistance to deformation and mechanical stress - the material must be durable and not warp over time due to temperature changes or natural seasonal wall movements (expansion in summer and narrowing in winter).
Durability - the insulation should last as long as possible (10-15 years).

Despite the abundance of insulation materials on the market, only a few fully meet the above criteria. Below we will consider which of them are the most popular in private construction and talk about an effective way to insulate walls from the inside.

polyurethane foam for wall insulation

Foamed polyurethane is the leader in the field of insulation for interior and exterior walls, ceilings and even floors. Its popularity is due to its high moisture resistance, durability and quick installation. The only drawback of the material is the peculiarity of its application - for this, a special spraying technique is used. Polyurethane foam itself consists of several components that are mixed in a spray bottle, after which it is applied under high pressure to the surface to be insulated. Upon contact with oxygen, the material immediately foams and hardens, giving a monolithic and seamless heat-insulating layer. If you have ever worked with polyurethane foam, the principle of applying polyurethane foam should be clear to you.

In order for the polyurethane foam to properly set and form a sufficient thickness to protect the house from the cold, it must be applied to the pre-installed formwork. It is built of wood or metal and the sections are alternately filled with foamed insulation. If you are making a frame out of wood, all elements should be treated with an antiseptic, if made of metal - with an anti-corrosion compound. In this case, there are no seams in the insulation, but there is still a risk of depressurization - if the formwork elements are destroyed.

After the foam layer has hardened, it must be closed with a vapor barrier membrane, and then covered with drywall sheets. It is already becoming clear that each of the layers, starting with the formwork, ending with drywall and finishing, takes up a lot of space, so this method is not suitable for warming rooms with a modest quadrature. It is impossible to apply plaster or other finishing materials directly on top of the frozen polyurethane foam - firstly, the surface is uneven, and secondly, if the finish does not hold, it will not be very long.

For the installation of drywall, you will also need to build a frame of metal profiles, and the profile can only be attached to adjacent walls, floors or ceilings, because the insulation will not withstand such a load. You can learn more about working with drywall in the article "". In this case, the dew point (the place where cold and warm air meet) will be in the thickness of the polyurethane foam itself or between it and the wall, and since the vapor permeability of the material is very low, condensation will not form.

Styrofoam for walls

If you decide to insulate the walls with ordinary polystyrene foam, which is sold in slabs, carefully study the technology for its installation. Expanded polystyrene is a close relative of ordinary foam, but unlike it, it has a greater density and strength. The surface of the boards is even and smooth, therefore, for their gluing, special mixtures are needed, designed specifically for expanded polystyrene. In this case, joints cannot be avoided, but the risk of cold bridges can be minimized if the insulation sheets are fitted as closely as possible to each other.

When choosing mixtures for the installation of polystyrene foam, pay attention to the instructions for their use - some are intended only for gluing, others - only for UV protection, others are designed for woodworking, etc. Consider also the material the walls are made of.

An important point: If you worked with foam or saw how professionals mount it, you should have remembered that the adhesive solution is applied to the plates in small cakes. In the case of internal insulation of the walls of the apartment, this option will not work, since air chambers will remain under the insulation - ideal condensate collectors. Over time, mold and fungi will inevitably develop there, which will damage both the wall and the interior.

In our case, the adhesive composition should be applied to the expanded polystyrene evenly, smearing it over the entire area of the sheet. Before applying the mixture, it is necessary to walk over the surface with a spiked roller to slightly perforate it, thereby enhancing adhesion to the adhesive and the wall. This step should by no means be ignored, especially if you are working not with ordinary foam, but with polystyrene foam (a hard and dense material with a smooth surface).

Since the expanded polystyrene plates are perfectly even, in order to securely fix them, the insulated wall must also be perfectly even. This is the greatest difficulty - if the wall has significant differences and defects, preliminary leveling with plaster will be required. In this case, you need to use not the usual mineral (cement) mixture, but moisture-resistant compounds that are sold to work with the kitchen and bathroom.

Helpful Hint: Styrofoam can only be glued! It is not advisable to use metal anchors for fixing, since in this way you yourself create a depressurization of the heat-insulating layer. If after insulation you want to plaster the wall, then before installing the reinforcing stack, reinforce the surface with “T”-shaped profiles. Run them between the styrofoam panels and attach them to the floor and ceiling.

Mineral wool for walls

Although we said that it is undesirable to use mineral wool for wall insulation, this only applies to material produced in rolls. Mineral wool in plates is more resistant to moisture changes, and it is much easier to work with it. For the manufacture of the material, basalt rocks are used, which is why it is often called stone wool.

Mineral wool insulation is resistant to high temperatures, almost does not react to the effects of household chemicals. The main advantages of the material are excellent heat and sound insulation. However, it is worth making a reservation here - if the mineral wool becomes damp, it will immediately lose its protective properties. On sale there are plates, one side of which is covered with foil material, which not only increases the thermal insulation capacity, but also serves as additional protection against getting wet. Such plates are most suitable for internal insulation of external walls and ceilings, since they literally reflect the heat that tends to leave the house back.

A serious disadvantage of mineral wool is the presence of carcinogenic fractions in it. This is a non-environmental synthetic material that does not have the best effect on health. Of course, in the long run, but the fact remains that mineral wool emits formaldehyde that is hazardous to health.

Protective equipment must be put on before installing mineral wool: gloves, long-sleeved clothing, goggles and a respirator. Nearby should not be open food, drink, fire. If a piece of mineral wool gets on the skin, it will cause irritation and itching, so after work, the room should be carefully cleaned and ventilated.

Second wall for insulation

The construction of a second wall for insulation is a common way for houses, the square of which allows you to donate several tens of centimeters of area without much damage. The most reliable material for internal wall insulation in this case is the “native” material, that is, if the house is built of wood, then the second wall should be wooden, brick - brick, block - block, etc.

For a stone house, masonry of the second wall should be done. This technology is quite simple: you need to cover the walls along the inner perimeter of the house with burnt brick or stone with mandatory reinforcement. The second wall should be tied to the old one, and the space between them should be covered with sand or filled with cement-sand mortar. Experts recommend pouring a solution, since the sand will sag over time, and it is not possible to add it.

The advantages of this method:

You practically do not need to prepare the base - just clean it up a bit and restore it if necessary.
The dew point problem disappears - no need to worry about the wall getting damp.
The walls become stronger, and the house will stand several times longer.

Among the shortcomings, in addition to reducing the usable area by several meters, one can single out the fact that the second wall gives an additional load on the floor and foundation. Not every foundation is able to withstand such a mass.

If you want to build a second wall in a log house, it must be wooden. This is an old proven technology, when the walls of a log house are upholstered with boards from the inside, nailing them directly to logs or beams. However, it is better to mount the second wall on the crate, and fill the space between it and the old wall with sawdust, expanded clay, slag or other environmentally friendly insulation.

This design is homogeneous, so dew points cannot occur. It is almost not necessary to prepare the basis for it, except to treat all the wooden elements with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

wall insulation technology

In this chapter, we will talk about the technology of insulating interior walls using popular materials. We will not consider foamed polyurethane, since it requires special equipment and handling skills.

Mineral wool insulation

Mineral wool is cheaper than other heaters, and it is the easiest to install. To attach mineral wool boards, you need to create a frame. To do this, you will need rack metal profiles for drywall and staples for them.

Mounting technology:

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene, unlike mineral wool, is completely safe and does not require personal protection. The only thing that confuses many home owners is its flammability. Yes, Styrofoam and its derivatives burn and emit highly toxic smoke, but the ignition temperature is twice that of paper. At the same time, the foam plastic emits 5 times less heat than wood, so if a fire happens in the house, it is not because the foam is sewn into the wall.

To insulate the inner wall of a block house, extruded polystyrene foam up to 40 mm thick is used. Since this is a flat material, it can only be glued to a flat surface, so the wall must first be processed. For external insulation with polystyrene foam, umbrella anchors are used as additional fixation, but inside the house, the operational loads are not so serious, so only special glue is enough.

Helpful advice: If the walls are insulated only from the inside, leave a ventilation gap between the wall and the insulation. So the condensate will evaporate and will not be able to harm the wall material.

The technology of wall insulation from the inside with polystyrene foam:

Finally, we suggest watching a training video on the internal insulation of walls with your own hands:

Most of the constructed panel and brick houses did not provide for the insulation of facades. Concrete and brick have high density and low thermal insulation properties. The result is cold walls and uncomfortable temperatures. There are several ways to insulate from the inside, the main thing is to avoid the appearance of dampness.

Dew point - physics of the phenomenon

A cold wall is not the only drawback of panel or brick houses. Often dampness and accompanying fungus and mold appear on it. The best way to fight is to insulate the wall from the outside (this is also a requirement of SNiP), but this is not always possible. Therefore, you have to fight the cold wall, insulating it from the inside. But there are pitfalls here.

Even if the cold wall was previously dry, then when it is insulated from the inside, dampness may appear. And the so-called dew point will be to blame.

The dew point is a conditional boundary at which the temperature of water vapor becomes equal to the temperature of condensate formation. It manifests itself, naturally, in the cold season. With proper design of the house (taking into account the characteristics of the region), it is approximately in the middle of the thickness of the facade of a material of uniform density.

If insulation is carried out from the outside, then the dew point shifts in the direction of decreasing density (that is, to the outer surface of the wall). When insulating from the inside, it moves inward, and condensate may appear on the surface of the main wall or inside the insulation.

And in order to assess the scale of possible damage, it is enough to say that as a result of the life of one person, about 4 liters of water evaporate per day (cooking, wet cleaning, personal hygiene, washing, etc.).

Features of cold wall insulation from the inside

There are several ways to prevent condensation on a wall insulated from the inside:

Creation of a layer of heat-insulating material with a vapor permeability lower than that of the facade material.
Warming with materials with minimal water absorption.
Application of ventilated facade technology (taking into account internal placement).

Liquid thermal insulation

polyurethane foam

PPU insulation meets all requirements for vapor barrier, water absorption and the absence of seams. Therefore, even if there is a dew point inside the layer, it will remain “conditional”, since there is no condensation in vapor-tight materials. It turns out from the side of the room a completely sealed heat-insulating layer.

The environmental friendliness of PPU after curing meets the requirements for residential premises. Harmful fumes are present only when the components are mixed during the spraying process - after polymerization, the structure of the material remains stable.

Thermal insulation is applied between the crate and sewn up with moisture-resistant sheet materials (GKL, OSB or plywood). In fact, it is like a large prefabricated sandwich panel.

The disadvantage of this method is the use of special equipment.

liquid ceramics

This is a relatively young heat-insulating material, the action of which is based on the use of two principles - the creation of a thin layer with high resistance to heat transfer and the reflection of heat towards the radiation source.

Of course, a thin heat-insulating layer cannot provide good thermal insulation - this is an auxiliary, but a mandatory factor. Although it gives a fairly high effect - the wall becomes much "warmer" to the touch.

The main task of reducing heat loss is performed by microscopic ceramic spheres that reflect infrared radiation.

According to the manufacturers, the effect of a 1.5 mm layer can be compared with thermal insulation with 5 cm thick foam plastic or 6.5 cm mineral wool.

The method of application is the same as for acrylic paint (the base is the same). After polymerization, a dense and durable film is formed on the surface, and latex additives improve the waterproofing properties.

Roll thermal insulation

Penofol

Penofol is a combination of polyethylene foam with aluminum foil. This is a whole series of materials (including single-sided, double-sided, laminated, with an adhesive layer). Moreover, it can be used both in combination with other heat-insulating materials, and independently. By the way, penofol is popular for warming the bath from the inside, and there is much more steam there than in an ordinary residential area.

To insulate a cold wall, foam foam is used with one layer of foil (one-sided) and up to 5 mm thick.

In the case, as with liquid ceramics, the effect is achieved due to the low thermal conductivity of foamed polyethylene, as well as its low vapor permeability and high reflective properties of the foil (up to 97%).

But unlike seamless coatings, complete sealing and prevention of cold bridges cannot be achieved. Consequently, condensation may form on the surface of the foil. Even the obligatory sealing of joints with adhesive aluminum foil will still leave gaps inside between adjacent sheets.

The method of combating the formation of condensate on the foil is traditional - a crate with a ventilated gap between the foam and the outer lining.

polyph

Another version of polyethylene foam, but already made in the form of a kind of wallpaper - there is a layer of paper on both sides. Polyfoam and is designed for gluing wallpaper on it.

Of course, its thermal insulation properties are not as high as those of penofol, but to make a cold wall feel warmer to the touch, they are quite enough.

In most cases, the insignificant thickness of the insulation does not lead to the dew point moving to the inner surface.

The disadvantage of this method is that only a dry wall is insulated.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene (or extruded polystyrene foam) is glued to a prepared and leveled wall. Both materials have very low water absorption (especially extruded polystyrene foam), so the formation of condensate in the insulation layer is excluded. The main danger is its appearance on the surface of the insulated wall.

Therefore, it is best to glue sheets on special hydrophobic adhesive mixtures applied over the entire surface of the sheets. And to prevent the penetration of water vapor from the side of the room, treat the seams with sealant (you can also use foam plastic with a step or a tenon-groove connection).

Finishing can be done in two ways:

mesh reinforcement and plastering;
sheathing with panels on a supporting frame fixed to the floor, ceiling and adjoining walls (false plasterboard wall).

Warming with mineral wool

Mineral wool does not meet the requirements for vapor permeability and water absorption for insulation from the inside. But it can be used.

The main thing is to provide maximum protection from moist air from the side of the room and the weathering of water vapor from the insulation layer. That is, to perform a ventilated facade, but in the reverse order: wall, gap, vapor-permeable membrane, mineral wool, vapor barrier film, decorative cladding indoors.

It is necessary to create a false wall at a distance of 2-3 cm from the main wall. And to weather the water vapor from below and above, make ventilation holes.

Wall insulation in residential buildings, especially apartment buildings, is an important and responsible process, especially if a major overhaul is planned - the insulation protects the walls from freezing in the winter and dampness in the off-season, but its main function is to provide thermal protection.

Thanks to high-quality wall insulation from the inside, for example, you can significantly save on heating, this is especially true for corner apartments and private houses. The issue of insulation should be approached very seriously, since the result of the work is designed for a long period of operation, therefore below we will consider the types and technologies of insulation applied to various types of walls.

Types of wall insulation and features of internal insulation

Wall insulation can be outdoor and internal. The first type is considered more effective and is the modern standard, but internal wall insulation becomes the only way out if it is not possible to produce external one for one of the following reasons:

The house is part of the architectural heritage or the facade faces the main street.
The presence of an expansion joint of buildings in the area that is planned to be insulated.
Outside behind the wall is an unheated room (for example, an elevator shaft).

The implementation of internal insulation requires the right choice of material, since it must be vapor-tight, as well as careful installation - if the work is done incorrectly, the apartment will not only not become warmer, but will also be subject to the destructive effects of mold, fertile soil for which can be condensate that appears between the main wall and a layer of insulation, or dew point.

What is dew point and what does it matter when planning wall insulation?

Dew point- this is a place on the wall where, at a certain temperature, the vapor contained in the air begins to condense, settling on the walls in the form of droplets resembling dew. It is of great importance, first of all, in the inter-heating seasons, when the air temperature in the premises decreases and the humidity rises. In fact, the higher the humidity, the closer the dew point is to the air temperature, and vice versa. Condensation appears in non-insulated or the weakest places of the wall - at joints and seams.

The choice of material for insulating walls from the inside with your own hands, insulation technologies

The first requirements when choosing materials for internal wall insulation are their high density, low vapor permeability, and the minimum number of joints during installation. The most common heaters for indoor use are materials based on foam, polyethylene, warm plaster, ceramic compositions, mineral wool and many others, and we will consider the most acceptable types of materials and the technology for their installation when doing do-it-yourself insulation.

internal wall insulation with mineral wool- one of the most common, but not ideal types of insulation, since wool over time can begin to absorb moisture and contribute to the appearance of dampness, however, with careful work, processing of joints and impregnation of the wall and insulation with antifungal compounds, its service life is quite long and can reach 10 years .

When insulated with mineral wool, the wall is equipped with a metal frame, the cells of which are filled with mineral wool slabs, carefully compacted and covered with drywall sheets on top. The disadvantage of this method of insulation is a decrease in the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

Striving for comfort, many residents of apartments refuse centralized heating and install warm electric floors; reviews of those who have already used underfloor heating, eloquently testify to increased comfort and warmth along with savings.

Instructions for laying underfloor heating devi - in this article. Features of installation and competent styling.

Wall insulation from the inside with polystyrene foam It is also popular, since expanded polystyrene sheets have a low specific gravity and high resistance to moisture, and their small thickness does not require prior placement of the frame on the wall. Fastening to the prepared wall can be done using building glue, dowels, liquid nails, be sure to treat the joints with polyurethane foam.

Insulation of internal walls with foam, or expanded polystyrene foam, is considered one of the most reliable ways to protect the premises from dampness. This material is absolutely environmentally friendly, has high strength and wear resistance, is fireproof, easy to install and relatively inexpensive.

Penoplex is glued or nailed to the prepared wall and requires the creation of a reinforcing layer to give the structure greater strength, as well as additional leveling of the surface - only after that you can start finishing the walls.

Internal wall insulation with foam also done frameless by gluing foam boards to the wall with ceramic tile adhesive.

The surface of the foam is covered with a layer of glue and a reinforced mesh with an overlap of 10-15 cm is placed on top of it with a slight indentation, which is eventually covered with a layer of plaster for painting or wallpapering, or ceramic or tile is mounted directly on the insulation.

Before insulating the walls of the apartment from the inside, it is necessary choose insulation material to the materials from which the walls or ceilings are made:

insulation of a brick wall from the inside can be done using polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and mineral wool;
internal insulation of walls made of foam blocks is best done with foam plastic, foam plastic or expanded polystyrene;
to insulate the internal walls of a wooden house, it is better to use foam or polystyrene foam;
it is possible to insulate concrete walls from the inside using any of the described heaters.

Many owners of their own suburban housing are interested, especially if there is no basement or cellar. Find out the features and methods of floor insulation in a private cottage or country house.

If the house is cold or the climate is harsh, you should also think about how to insulate the walls of the apartment from the inside. Learn about the methods and features of wall insulation from the inside of a dwelling.

When choosing materials for internal insulation, it is important that they meet the following requirements:

resistance to high temperature, fire safety;
low ability to conduct heat - the selected material should not release heat from the room in winter and should not contribute to heating the apartment in summer;
environmental friendliness or safety for health;
durability, strength and ability to retain shape and volume;
high resistance to moisture.

Also, when planning self-insulation of walls, it is advisable to consult with specialists who could recommend the optimal thickness of the material.

Rules for the internal insulation of the walls of the apartment

Walls to be insulated must be properly prepared to this process, and the most important elements of preparation are:

drying the wall with a building hair dryer, spotlights or infrared lamps;
checking the condition or installing insulating materials that will protect the surface from moisture and steam;
processing of seams between floor slabs and in the heat insulator layer.

Warming process step by step as follows:

All finishes are completely removed, the primer layer should also be completely removed, especially if traces of mold or fungus are noticed. The surface is completely cleaned with a building vacuum cleaner and a broom. The walls are dried with a building hair dryer, spotlights or infrared lamps and, if necessary, impregnated with antifungal mixtures.
After the wall has completely dried, it is necessary to block all cracks and holes. If they are shallow, you can use a cement or any other primer mixture, for cracks up to 3 cm deep, it is recommended to use mounting foam, deeper damage should be covered with tow and blown with mounting foam.
The next stage is surface treatment with antiseptics and a primer. The break between actions should be sufficient for the wall to dry well.
The surface must be leveled for a snug further fit of the frame or frameless insulation.
Particular attention should be paid to the joints of the floors - blow out all the holes, and also glue them with construction fabric.
If necessary, you can additionally lay a layer of waterproofing, which should be placed between the base of the wall and the insulation layer.
After preparing the wall, you can proceed with the installation, the methods of which for each of the materials have been described above.
After the insulation layer and additional elements (reinforced mesh, finishing primer layer) have completely dried, you can start finishing the walls.

The cost of insulation square meter of the wall with their own hands will be from 450 rubles to a higher price based on the type of insulation chosen and a set of additional measures for surface preparation.

Wall insulation from the inside should be resorted to only in extreme cases, when the outside, that is, accepted as a modern standard, is impossible. The constant development of technologies over time will make it possible to improve the process of warming an apartment from the inside without losing space and the risk of condensation in the wall space, however, the methods listed above are among the most optimal in the current conditions.

For those who are interested in the technology in a more visual format, see the wall insulation from the inside in the video instructions: