How to make a frame from wooden blocks. Rules for the manufacture of a wooden frame for drywall. Wooden slat frame

Such a popular finishing material as GKL, in most cases, is attached to a special frame. Usually it is mounted from metal profiles. An alternative option is a crate made of wooden beams, which is very easy to assemble with your own hands. But do not be deceived by the ease of manufacture: wood is a capricious material, its use is far from always possible. Consider all the features of this design and find out when and how you can make a wooden crate for drywall on your own.

Features and disadvantages of wood lathing

The construction of a wooden frame under the gypsum board attracts with its low cost and ease of operation. Especially if during the repair a small number of boards remain, which can be used as slats for the supporting structure. In this case, you do not have to spend money on the purchase of a metal profile, as well as the necessary fasteners, for example.

But you should also remember about the properties of wood that limit its use in construction:

Wooden structures are subject to change in geometric dimensions with excessive or insufficient moisture. Drywall attached to such a crate will move with it, resulting in cracks that appear at the joints of the sheets. This is a constant process, as the wood gives off moisture when the room is dry or absorbs it when it is too humid.
Alignment of walls with gypsum boards is often combined with insulation. Under these conditions, ventilation of the wooden parts of the crate is minimal, which leads to their rapid decay.
Bars are not well suited for leveling walls. It is unacceptable to use wedges for lining: over time, the tree can bend under the influence of moisture and temperature, and weak areas form in the places of such linings.

It is not recommended to use a wooden frame when finishing with a plasterboard ceiling. This design does not have a sufficient margin of safety; it is better to use a metal profile for this purpose.
It is unacceptable to use a wooden frame in rooms with a high level of humidity or temperature. Strictly speaking, a crate made of this material is only suitable for rooms with constant microclimate indicators.
If it is planned to place electrical wires under the GKL surface, then metal guides must be used: wooden elements do not have a sufficient level of fire safety.

When can I make a frame for gypsum boards out of wood?

It is recommended to use a wooden structure for plasterboard sheets:

In houses made of logs or timber. In this case, the crate is ideally combined with the material of the walls due to the same physical properties. It turns out that any change in humidity is compensated. In such conditions, drywall remains motionless and is not damaged.
In ordinary apartments with perfectly flat walls. In this case, the timber frame will be a reliable basis for fixing the plasterboard.

Advantages

Advantages of a wooden crate:

Simple installation, which can be done by hand.
Available and cheap materials, more environmentally friendly than a metal profile.
If all the necessary conditions are met, a properly installed crate will last a long time and will be a reliable basis for drywall sheets.

Tools and materials

First of all, you will need a wooden beam itself with a cross section of at least 40 × 40 mm. If it is planned to carry out insulation and soundproofing, then the beam must be chosen thicker, for example 40 × 80 mm. To prevent decay, it is impregnated with antiseptic and water-repellent solutions. It would be useful to treat it with a composition that improves the fire safety of the material.

Before installation, all wooden elements must be kept indoors for several days in order to adapt to its microclimate and take on their final geometric shape.

You will also need:

Measuring tool: level, plumb line, tape measure.
Pencil, coated cord.
and dowels for attaching the timber to the wall.
A screwdriver and self-tapping screws, as well as corners for connecting frame elements to each other.
Hacksaw, hammer and construction knife.

As you can see, almost the entire tool can be found in the arsenal of even a novice master. To install a wooden frame and fasten drywall, you do not have to purchase specialized expensive fixtures.

Lathing installation

Preparatory work consists in removing the old coating if there is doubt about its strength. Things in the room can be covered with plastic wrap or other material.

The order of the wooden frame device:

First you need to do the markup. The size of the GKL determines the optimal step between the vertical posts - 600 mm. Thus, each sheet will be attached to three bars: one in the center, and two at the edges. The joints should be located on the surface of the rack, as shown in the photo.

A horizontal beam is attached to the ceiling. Using a plumb line, the location of the rail on the floor is determined. They must be located strictly in the same plane.

In the case of a perfectly even overlap, horizontal bars can be attached directly to the wall. Here, the same thickness of all elements of the crate is of paramount importance: any error in size will result in frame irregularities.

Vertical racks are attached to the beams on the ceiling and floor strictly according to the level. To the wall, they are mounted on dowel-nails, for which holes are pre-drilled in the rails and in the wall for fasteners.

In houses with wooden walls, you can mount racks to the base with wood screws. But you still need to drill holes: this eliminates the likelihood that the beam will crack.

The heads of the self-tapping screws are recessed deep into the sheet by 1 mm.

In the future, as well as deepening the heads of the screws.

After grinding, the surface is primed and ready for further finishing.

A wooden ceiling can be perfectly sheathed with drywall. This finish is not only very beautiful. The technology by which drywall is fastened to a wooden ceiling or to a ceiling on metal profiles allows you to create multi-level ceilings that will be decorated with various borders or other relief elements.

In addition, such a ceiling is easily putty, you can embed lighting in it, and glue stylish stucco molding on its surface. It is also important that such a ceiling will breathe perfectly, and the natural microclimate will not be disturbed. Drywall is a modern environmentally friendly material that allows you to create miracles with the interior of the house.

Methods for attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling

Installation of drywall is most relevant when there is a need for facing a very uneven ceiling, especially in those rooms in which the height is three or more meters.

To date, there are several ways to attach drywall to a wooden ceiling.

Namely:

On adhesive materials (special adhesives for drywall);
On wooden slats-profiles;
On metal.

Drywall in very rare cases is attached to the adhesive material, directly to the ceiling itself. This is only possible if the ceiling is perfectly flat. In addition, this method is not practical, since it is likely that the GKL (gypsum boards) will sag or fall off altogether.

Therefore, we will not pay special attention to this method in this article.

Most often, options are used using a specially prepared frame. And then we will consider in detail how to hem drywall to the ceiling and the technology for manufacturing these frames.

Wooden slat frame

Such a frame allows you to hide all sorts of flaws in the ceiling, while not sacrificing much of the height of the room. Plasterboard on wooden slats is more preferable if you need to mount a simple single-level ceiling. This method is cheaper than using a metal frame.

However, only high-quality bars and slats, perfectly dried in the chamber, are suitable for the frame, which subsequently will not be deformed and will be able to withstand a decent load for many years.

Before proceeding with the installation work, you need to visually determine the lowest point of the ceiling. It is from her that we mark the design position of the frame: we retreat 5 cm, and with the help of a level we draw a flat horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. If you do this work correctly, then your end point will coincide with the start.
Further along this horizontal along the entire perimeter, with the help of self-tapping screws, we fix the rail.

Please note: how correctly you calculate and design the frame will depend on the success of all subsequent work!

Next, we fix the base bars to the ceiling surface with such a step that will ensure the reliability of fastening the hemmed system. The recommended distance between the base bars, located in parallel, should not be more than 0.8 m.
In a perpendicular direction, we attach load-bearing strips to them, which will be the basis on which drywall can later be hemmed. In the event that you have a small area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling, a single-base frame will suffice, in which the adjusted wooden bars to the ceiling will simultaneously serve as carriers for fixing the plasterboard. Of course, the step of fastening the bars in such a frame will decrease and will be about 0.5 m.

Installation of a wooden frame and drywall

We fasten the bars to the ceiling with self-tapping screws on dowels with a fastening step of 0.8 m. In the case of a two-layer sheathing, the step is reduced, because double the weight of the binder. The attachment points of the bars located in the neighborhood should not be on the same straight line. They need to be alternated in a checkerboard pattern.
Installation of drywall on a wooden ceiling is carried out with a step of attaching the sheet to the frame of 0.15 m in the case of a single-layer filing. The fastening step for the first layer can be made 0.5 m when filing in two layers. When fixing the second hemmed layer, the pitch of the screws will be 0.15 m.

Note!
The length of the screws is 25 - 35 mm. This screw size is perfect for 12.5mm drywall thickness.
If the thickness of the sheets is different, it is necessary to select fasteners based on the depth of entry into the material.

Fastening beams to the ceiling

The base bars to the wooden ceiling can be carried out on straight metal hangers (brackets) or adjustable metal hangers with a wire hanger. Through the use of direct suspensions, it is possible to increase the distance between the plasterboard and the ceiling surface.

We fasten the brackets to the beam on both sides with self-tapping screws. We shoot the brackets themselves to the supporting ceiling and bend them along the width of the bar at a right angle. If you need to increase the distance between the ceiling and the plasterboard, there is a D111 system (suspended ceiling on a wooden frame).

Drywall on a wooden ceiling on a wooden frame allows the use of wire hangers. The frame elements on the hangers are held by special clamps, which allow for quick installation and the necessary height adjustment.

Metal carcass

How to fix drywall to using a metal frame (see also)? In fact, it is not so difficult if there is a detailed instruction. The metal profile is a more reliable and durable material for creating a frame under the gypsum board than wood.

Before installing the frame, you need to decide to what height the plasterboard ceiling will be lowered. Between the plasterboard and the ceiling, you can install not only lamps, but also various communications (ventilation, water supply and electrical wiring).

You will need 2 people to install the frame and support the sheets. One sheet of drywall weighs about 15 kg.

What is the frame made of

The metal frame consists of guide profiles. They hold the main frame of the entire structure and rack profiles are fixed to them, on which drywall is mounted. The cross section of the profiles has a U-shape. And rack profiles are similar to the letter “C”.

The length of the profiles is always three meters. If it is necessary to increase the length of the profiles, use the butt joints, which are inserted inside and fastened with self-tapping screws. With the help of suspensions, it is possible to correct and level the plane of even the most crooked ceiling and give the frame structure relative rigidity.

In any hardware store you can find very convenient direct hangers, which you will use in your work. Other types of suspensions are quite difficult to adjust, and they are also quite unreliable due to the manufacturing defects.

Rack profiles can be perpendicularly fastened using cruciform joints, which are also called crabs. If you are going to install the ceiling in a small room, then this will not take you much time and effort, but it is still better to find yourself an assistant.

Frame installation

To install the frame and GCR, you will need the following tools:

gun for driving dowels;
knife for cutting drywall sheets;
felt-tip pen;
level (2-3 meters);
drill;
a hammer;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws for drywall, metal and dowels;
metal profiles;
drywall panels.

First you need to determine where in your room is the lowest corner, and then measure the distance from it that you need to lower the frame. After that, draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter with a level and a pencil and be guided clearly along it when fixing the guide profiles.

These profiles, depending on the type of surface, are fixed either with dowels or self-tapping screws in increments of 20-30 cm - the main thing is that it is firmly and securely attached to the wall.

After that, we proceed to the installation of rack profiles. In the event that the width of your room is approximately 2.5 meters, then a metal frame with sufficient rigidity will be quite enough. The assembly of such a frame is very simple.

You just need to attach the rack profiles to the wall and fasten them. It is necessary to fix them at a distance of 0.4 meters, using the drawn lines located on the side walls.

Next, cut the rack profiles along the length of the room with metal scissors and insert them into the guides, and then fasten the resulting structure with self-tapping screws. To give it rigidity, you need to use special suspensions.

They need to be fixed to the ceiling with dowels-nails in increments of 60-80 centimeters, and then further improve strength with self-tapping screws. If you do not use suspensions, then the frame will not be securely fixed in the end, and after puttying and painting all joints will crack.

In the event that you will install a chandelier or ceiling lamp, then it is necessary to install mortgages, since plasterboard sheets will not be able to support the weight of your lamp. Attach several rack profiles to the frame for the future location of the lighting fixture.

After you have mounted the frame, you can start installing the GKL. For this you will need: a clerical knife and a felt-tip pen. We make markings on a sheet of drywall according to the size of the room and cut it off.

Then we fasten the plasterboard to the ceiling using self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm. It is easier to screw them in with a special screwdriver.

Slightly sink the heads of the fixing screws into the drywall panel. The next step is gluing the sickle mesh to the joints (to avoid cracks), then primer and putty.

Plasterboard products are very popular in today's construction and renovation business because they have a number of advantages, such as additional sound insulation and heat retention.

The work involves the use of metal or wooden frames, the latter are becoming more popular every year, because wooden products are natural, environmentally friendly, non-toxic and safe for both humans and the environment. They are as simple as possible to install, which allows you to carry out the installation yourself, without resorting to the services of specialists, construction repair teams.

The wooden frame for drywall is made from coniferous wood, and the timber is selected depending on the height and method of sheathing.

What is this article about

Tree selection and preparation

The selected tree for the manufacture of battens for plasterboard must comply with the following characteristics:

humidity should be in the range from 12 to 18% (humidity should not exceed 20%, otherwise all fixing materials will fall out when the wood dries, and the structure itself will collapse);
the material before use must be necessarily treated from insects, rodents and other biological factors according to the principle of processing the first group of fire safety;
the frame elements are connected using spikes, because they provide the most durable connection between them, as well as with the ceiling or wall (nails and self-tapping screws are allowed);
mineral wool for sound insulation should be in the range from 50 to 60 mm;
the optimal size of the bar for creating the base of the frame is considered to be 40 by 40 mm, and bars measuring 40 by 80 mm are perfect for joining gypsum boards.

It is worth noting that when choosing wooden products, you should pay attention to their size - it should be the same, because this will save time and additional effort during installation.

A mandatory item is to leave the tree indoors for several days (at least 2 days) so that it can acclimatize, after which it must be treated with an antiseptic to extend its service life. This treatment saves the product from destruction by all sorts of biological factors, such as: mold and fungi, decay, invasion of insects and rodents (the antiseptic contains components that repel pests, for this, for example, 3-4% sodium fluoride is perfect, which differs good penetrating properties, while it is not harmful and toxic to humans).

Leave the tree in the room for a couple of days before starting work so that it acquires the humidity and temperature of the room and does not “walk” in the future.

Wooden frame features

The wooden frame for drywall is very flexible, unpretentious in work and convenient, which allows you to do the installation yourself as soon as possible, without having special knowledge, skills and without spending a lot of money.

When choosing a tree as a base, you need to know that it is in poor contact with water and high humidity, so it is not recommended to use it in rooms with high humidity. This can lead to damage to the entire structure, its deformation and swelling. If water enters and then dries, the product may crack or get other defects.

Also, the tree is difficult to bend, which is necessary to create a special design.

What tools are needed for installation?

In order for the work to be done efficiently and quickly, it is necessary to purchase and prepare the following tools and materials in advance:

wooden blanks and suspensions;
dowels and plumb;
hammer and screwdrivers;
level, profile and crowbar;
tape measure and coated thread;
screwdriver and screws themselves;
drill with a drill (can be replaced with a puncher);
hacksaw and a special construction knife;
squares and brackets;
marking cord and pencil.

All tools are standard and very affordable (you can buy them at any hardware store), so there will be no problems with choosing and buying them. Some tools can be rented, such as a screwdriver and a drill, if they are not needed in the future, this is very convenient and economical. After preparing all the components, you can proceed to the installation of the ceiling.

Stages of work

markup

This is the most important step in the installation, so the final result will depend on it, so that the whole procedure goes without errors, you should start marking from the lowest corner in the room, after which, using the hydraulic level, you need to mark the remaining corners. Using this method, it will be possible not to be afraid that one of the edges will not fit into the overall geometry of the building.

When marking, leave approximately 5 cm so that you can hide the base of the lighting fixtures and wires. Next, you need to make marks on the walls in order to connect them later, they must be perfectly even.

After that, it is necessary to mark the place where it is necessary to fix the suspensions.

Assembling the frame base

Fastening drywall to wooden blocks begins with the fact that all parts are adjusted to the desired size, sawing off unnecessary parts. It should be noted that it is necessary to leave approximately 1 cm between the wall and the crate, so that in the future it may be possible to increase the details.

First of all, it is necessary to fix the guide elements of the base along the perimeter of the room so that they are a guideline for determining the level of the ceiling surface. It is very important here that they are located strictly horizontally in a single plane.

To clearly see how all the details should be located in the plane, you can use the following method: you need to install one thread from one corner of the room, and other threads must be pulled so that they cross the room up and down, they will help you understand how and where the plane will be located.

A wooden crate for drywall assumes that the fastening of all elements will be done with nails, if the walls are not brick or concrete, in which case the fastening step should be from 40 to 60 cm.

After all the bars are fixed, you can proceed to fasten the remaining parts of the crate, you need to do this so that the gvl are located across the crate. It is worth noting that if the distance does not exceed the thickness of the wooden part itself, then fasteners can be made directly to the base of the base. If the situation is reversed, then you will first need to install the suspensions using dowels, and only after that attach the wooden elements to the suspensions using self-tapping screws.

If there is a small difference between the distance from the base ceiling and the difference in the thickness of the part, then correct the situation by placing pieces of plywood of the right size under the slats using a planer.

To provide the entire structure with high stability and reliability, it is necessary to attach wooden elements and make sure that the step does not exceed 100 cm.

Drywall installation

In order to carry out a high-quality installation of drywall sheets on a wooden crate, it is necessary to work in increments of 30 cm, while installing self-tapping screws in such a way that their heads are slightly driven into the sheet.

When working, it is necessary to ensure that all joints of drywall sheets are located strictly on the base, without hanging in the air.

It is worth noting that at all stages of work it is worthwhile to clearly ensure that the ceiling is even and there are no knocks, roughness and irregularities anywhere. If you do not follow this, upon completion of work, the whole structure may turn out to be oblique, which will greatly affect the quality and appearance of the ceiling.

All work can be done independently, without resorting to the services of professionals, if you purchase high-quality material, process it correctly, prepare it and strictly follow the instructions described above. High-quality work can ensure high strength and reliability of the entire crate, as well as its durability.

Choosing a tree as a base, you can be sure of its quality, safety and capabilities, because it can be given any shape suitable for any future interior of an apartment or house using a planer. Thanks to this, a wooden frame can be an excellent alternative to metal counterparts.

To work with drywall, various materials are used. The most common method is the installation of profile metal frames, however, wooden structures can also be found quite often.

Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, so many people prefer it. It is worth saying that the tree is subject to climatic influences, biological corrosion and fire hazard, and therefore requires additional processing.

Wood preparation

Make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. A beam of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of sheathing.

Main physical characteristics:

Humidity from 12 to 18%.
For partitions of the W121 brand with a height of 2.8–3 m, a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for the crate is used.
For partitions of the W122 brand with a height of 2.8–4.2 m, a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm is suitable for risers and battens, while depending on the height, different sheet thicknesses are used: for a height of 2.8–3 m - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3–3.6 m - 2 × 14 mm, 3.6–3.9 m - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9–4.2 m - 2 × 18 mm.
The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm.
Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first fire safety group.
Connection on nails, spikes and self-tapping screws is allowed, while spikes are most preferable, as they create a rigid and durable connection.
The thickness of sound insulation made of mineral wool should be between 50 and 60 mm.
The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm.
The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.

Important!
Before installation, the wood should lie down for several days in the room where it is supposed to be installed in order to acclimatize.

Use quality lumber that meets moisture and fire safety requirements. Make sure that you have certificates about the processing of the material with flame retardants and the passage of relevant examinations.

In addition to fire-fighting treatment, the wooden frame for drywall must undergo antiseptic treatment.

This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:

Fungal and mold microorganisms. A tree can serve as a nutrient medium for the mycelium of a number of mold fungi, while the wood becomes unusable and collapses.
biological decay. Wood is an organic material that is subject to necrobiosis and decay. Preservation requires antiseptic treatment.
carpenter insects. Many insects are known to feed on wood and render it unusable.
rodents. They also pose a danger to the tree. Treatment with antiseptics repels these animals.

Insect pests can damage wood in a short time

Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.

It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water. The marginal rate is 3.5–4%.

Sodium fluoride penetrates well into the wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not provoke metal corrosion, has no smell and is not toxic to humans. Fairly strong antiseptic.

Sodium silicofluoride is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it to pure sodium fluoride.

The use of oily antiseptics is unacceptable for residential premises:

creosote;
coal;
shale;
anthracene oils.

These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the home.

Installation of a wooden frame under drywall

Tracing lines connecting partition walls to walls

To draw lines, use the rule

To do this, measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and step back from it the width of the GKL sheet.

It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to transfer it with a plumb line down the wall. To do this, we hammer a nail at a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.

We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the bottom point.

This can be done by constructing the "Egyptian triangle" - a right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5, where 3 and 4 correspond to the legs, and 5 is the hypotenuse. At the same time, one leg is set aside along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of three.
From the bottom point we build an arc of a circle in the direction perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of four.
From the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build an arc of a circle with a radius that is a multiple of five so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.
Connecting the point of intersection of these arcs with the original low point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line on the floor along this perpendicular - the second line of our partition.

We connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth last line. Thus, we must draw a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.

Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for a trick - attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long side from the calculated point.

Frame assembly

As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame, vertical and horizontal bars. The installation of the frame should begin with the frame.

To do this, along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling, fix the bars. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or spikes to the ceiling beam, floor joists and walls.

If the building is stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use straight hangers or brackets.

We fasten solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located against the wall, the lower beam will be solid and lie on one side of the opening.

So, we fix all the bars, for drilling holes in the walls and ceiling we use an impact drill with a drill for concrete.

Doorway

Doorway formed by double risers

Do-it-yourself doorway installation instructions:

To do this, we install two risers on the sides of it. The width of the opening should be 4-5 cm wider than the door frame.
We install the risers and strengthen them with additional bars.
At the height of the door frame plus 2-3 cm, we install a horizontal jumper, which we connect with two vertical bars to the ceiling rail.
Vertical bars give the structure additional rigidity and are needed for joining drywall sheets.

Racks

To determine the location of the jumper, we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be located at the doorway, in place of its edge we fix the jumper so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.

Advice!
To connect the beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal linings designed for assembling truss systems.
These fasteners are reliable and designed for significant loads.

We check each detail by level, the racks must be strictly vertical, the lintels must be horizontal.

Try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.

The work on sheathing the frame with GKL sheets is the topic of a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.

It should be noted that the price of a profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and dealing with low-quality lumber is more expensive for yourself, so think carefully.

Tool

You will need:

a hammer;
wood saw;
screwdriver;
impact drill with a drill for concrete;
construction knife;
plumb;
level;
pencil;
roulette;
square;
crowbar;
screwdriver;
coated thread;
screws;
dowels;
brackets.

If you don't have an impact drill or a screwdriver, you can rent them at the hardware store.

Also, do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for soundproofing. You can use thick mats on the mesh so as not to lay the cotton wool in two layers.

Conclusion

Now you know how to assemble a wooden frame under the plasterboard. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website provides a detailed photo and video instruction in which you will find the necessary information on this issue. Good luck!

Drywall is a multifunctional building material of our time, with which you can sheathe any room in home. To create a frame base for gypsum boards, you can use wooden or metal profiles.

Most often, a metal frame is used in repair work, which provides greater structural strength. But making it is much more difficult than from wooden slats. Therefore, along with metal, a wooden frame for drywall is often used. Wood is an environmentally friendly material and this is another reason why many people prefer it as the basis for home renovations. Moreover, such a frame is much easier to make at home.

In order for the wooden structure in the house to serve for a long time, the tree must be properly prepared. This material is highly susceptible to biological corrosion, climatic influences and burns well. Therefore, before making a wooden frame or partition, the tree should be prepared according to the rules.
Note! It is best to make a partition or frame from conifers.
Before starting, chemical treatment is usually carried out. To do this, wooden slats are treated over the entire surface with antiseptic substances. This will help you prevent:

damage to wood by mold or fungal microorganisms. And under their influence, the tree deteriorates very quickly;
the risk of damage to the tree by arboreal insects that use the wood as food;
biological decay;
damage to the bars by rodents that can be found in a house, especially a country one.

Today, the market is replete with a wide variety of antiseptics. But the best is sodium fluoride. It penetrates very deep into the wood and is poorly washed out of it.

It should be noted that sodium fluoride does not decompose and cannot lead to metal corrosion. It is also non-toxic to humans and odorless, which is a great advantage for treating wooden beams and battens with this substance at home.
In addition to sodium fluoride, sodium silicofluoride with the addition of soda ash is also used for wood treatment.
In residential premises it is strictly forbidden to use the following types of oil antiseptics:

coal;
creosote;
anthracene oils;
shale.

When processing wood with such substances, a person can harm his health!

Before carrying out the installation of wooden planks, the slats must be in the room where they will be fixed for several days. Thanks to this, they will undergo sufficient acclimatization.
Remember that the slats must be made of quality lumber, which must comply with fire safety and humidity requirements.

The seller, upon request, is obliged to provide you with a certificate or certificate stating that the material has been treated with a flame retardant and has passed a special examination by authorized bodies.

Creating a drawing

Before starting mounting wooden structural elements, you should draw a drawing.
It is created like this:

measure the length of the room;
measure the height of the room;
multiply the resulting numbers and get the perimeter of the room;
then we measure the perimeter of windows, doorways in the same way and put them on the drawing.

Drawing

By creating a diagram, you can evaluate the range of upcoming work and decide on the amount of materials. With it, you will make the correct frame, and you will not have to bend the elements and tamp them so that they fit perfectly into the structure.

Tools for the job

You can make a wooden frame for drywall using the following tools:

screwdriver;
a hammer;
construction knife;
concrete drill with impact drill;

Tools

wood saw;
plumb line, tape measure and pencil;
building level;
screwdriver, crowbar;
brackets, dowels and screws.

With these tools at hand, making a wooden partition or frame will be very easy even for a beginner.

Installation work

Installation of a wooden structure for drywall involves the following processes:

tracing (marking) of the wall. We put all the elements of the drawing on the wall;
we measure the distance of the plane of the future partition and retreat from it to the width of the GKL. You should start from the ceiling. We hammer in a nail and hang a plumb line on it. We mark a point on the floor;
by connecting these two points, you will get the first line;
then repeat the procedure;

Note! You can do it a little easier. Attach the GKL sheet to the wall (short side) and simply draw a perpendicular from a given point.

then we begin to make the installation of the frame. We fasten the bars along the lines. Wooden beams should not be bent, otherwise they can simply be broken. You can fix it with both self-tapping screws and spikes (in a wooden house). In a stone house we use screws, dowels, brackets or direct hangers;
along the walls and ceiling we fasten solid bars. Remember that it is impossible to bend a solid beam, so changing the design will no longer work. In this regard, make all fastenings with a level check;
along the floor, the divergence of the bars on both sides of the doorway is allowed;
when the opening is located near the wall, we use a solid beam running on one side of this opening;
Next, we carry out the installation of vertical rails. We install rails strictly according to the level. You can bend them slightly if the rail is slightly uneven. But don't overdo it or it will break.

finished frame

Note! In order to make a wooden structure, you can use bars and slats of different sections. The choice of section should be made depending on the method of sheathing and the height of the partition. You also need to take into account the level of load that the frame will experience in the future, so as not to bend its elements.
When the frame is ready, you can install the doorway:

on the sides of the opening it is necessary to install two risers. The width of the doorway should be 4 cm more than the width of the door frame itself;
we strengthen the risers with additional bars;
at the level of the door frame, add 2.5 cm and install a horizontal lintel. To fix the jumper, it is not necessary to bend it;
we connect the jumper with the ceiling rail using two vertical bars. They will make the structure more rigid. They will also be needed for fixing drywall sheets in the future;
Next, attach the racks. Their step, so as not to bend the frame, is 60 cm;
in the case when the ceilings are slightly higher than the length of the drywall sheet, we make a horizontal jumper in order to better join the sheets at the stage of their installation.

Advice. To determine the location of the jumper above the opening, you need to attach a drywall sheet and nail the jumper in place of its edge so that it goes up to its middle.
To increase the rigidity of the structure and the level of load it can withstand at the junction of the beams, metal corners and linings should be used, which are designed to collect truss systems. Thus, you prevent the mechanical destruction of the frame and make it more resistant to mechanical influences from the outside.
The finished structure and each of its details should be checked during installation by the building level. Racks must go strictly vertically, and all jumpers - horizontally. In this case, the racks should be positioned in such a way that the maximum possible number of whole sheets of drywall fit on the wall. As a result, you will save not only time, but also reduce material consumption.
A wooden crate for drywall is quite easy to do with your own hands, subject to a number of rules and technologies. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions and you will get even the most complex elements of it.