In order for your floor to serve for many years and please with its appearance, it is necessary to correctly install the parquet board. To do this, you should be well aware of all the subtleties of the process: from preparing the base to laying the coating.
Subfloor preparation
Before installing the parquet board, it is necessary to carry out work on the preparation of the subfloor. It must be strong, even, without recesses, cracks and other defects. The maximum allowable height difference is 2 mm per linear meter. It is also important to pay attention to the level of humidity in the room.
To protect wooden boards from moisture and temperature differences between the base and the coating, it is necessary to organize a substrate of hydro- and heat-insulating material with a thickness of at least 2 mm. Laying a parquet board on a substrate will smooth out irregularities, muffle the sounds of steps, and maintain the integrity of the floor for many years.
There are many types of substrate. The most affordable is from foamed propylene. Such material provides excellent vapor barrier, increases sound and heat insulation, but is not durable: complete decay occurs after 7-10 years.
A cork underlay is often used when installing underfloor heating and parquet in a nursery. It has high strength characteristics and elasticity, good shock-absorbing properties, while it can swell from water.
Coniferous substrate is one of the most expensive varieties. It has high strength and wear resistance, environmental friendliness, resistance to moisture. It can be laid independently without any professional skills.
The "Tuplex" substrate is a practical solution if the screed is not dry enough or condensation forms on it periodically due to irregular heating of the room. It consists of several layers: a porous and polyethylene film, as well as a ventilated air layer stuffed with balls to maintain a constant height.
It is important to remember that wood floors expand and contract over time, depending on climate change. Space for expansion is required - a gap of about 10 mm between the flooring border and the wall. For areas with linear dimensions greater than 6 m, the distance should be 1.5 mm for each meter of length. It is also recommended to leave gaps around pipes, poles, columns and other elements that come into contact with the flooring.
Modern methods and features of laying wooden parquet boards
Installation work on the device of the floor is quite simple, they can be carried out with your own hands, following a step-by-step procedure. The laying of parquet boards is carried out according to a pre-selected technology, for example, on a concrete floor with a screed and fastening with locks on the edge or plywood using glue.
The dimensions of the panels allow the use of various methods and options for laying parquet boards:
- floating way;
- diagonally;
- non-threshold;
- deck (straight);
- "herringbone";
- squares;
- etc.
Particularly popular is the floating laying of parquet boards. This method is based on the use of a glueless interlock. It is characterized by simplicity, high structural stability and speed of operation, the ability to easily correct errors, replace damaged panels. Suitable for rooms up to 60 sq. m.
The diagonal method is used to visually expand the space. It is great for small spaces. With this method, the panels are laid at an angle of 30-45 degrees towards the wall. Material consumption with the diagonal method increases significantly.
With the non-threshold method, the panels are laid without joints on the doors of the rooms. This requires professional skills, since the slightest mistake can lead to the fact that you have to start work again.
The most affordable type of parquet board laying is straight. Boards are placed along one of the walls parallel to each other. With this method, the floor pattern resembles the deck of a ship.
If you want to get not only a durable floor, but also an independent element of decor, the coating should be laid:
- "herringbone";
- "checker";
- "wicker";
- square;
- and etc.
The most common is the herringbone pattern, which gives the impression that the coating has a different texture. Installation with this method is carried out along the walls or diagonally.
Another simple pattern is the "checker". It consists of squares assembled from parquet staves. They are stacked with a rotation of 90 degrees in relation to each other.
The "braid" pattern is based on the interweaving of pairs and triplets of parquet. To implement the method, a coating of 2-3 rocks is required.
Rules for laying parquet boards step by step:
Open one or two packages of flooring to get a general idea of the appearance of the floor. Wood is a natural material with variations in texture and color.
Prepare the base. It is necessary to check it for evenness and absence of drops, dust it and treat it with a synthetic primer.
Measure the length of the planks and calculate the total number of decking rows. If the last row turns out to be narrow, it is necessary to cut the boards, leaving a width of at least 5 cm.
Lay the substrate overlap on the base, and fasten the joints with adhesive tape. It is better to start the installation of planks from the corner located on the left hand, moving to the right. Boards are preferably installed along the length of the room.
The first board is placed with a gap from the wall by installing clamps. To avoid damaging the wall, insert a thick piece of paper.
The boards are mounted end to end to each other, after cutting off the spike. For a tighter fit, they are adjusted with a bar and a hammer.
Connect the panels of the first row to each other in a lock. Check connections.
Mark the cut line with the necessary indentation with a pencil. It must be at least 4 mm from the edge of the penultimate board to create a compensation gap.
To create a solid floor, the panels are laid "in a row". In this case, the length of the first panel of the second row should be 2/3 of the standard.
Planks of the second row are fixed to each other and moved to the first row. Then tightly connect the "comb into the groove".
For laying the third row, the bar is cut. Its length should be 1/3 of the standard.
Measure the length of the first board of the fourth row. It should be standard. Connect the planks of the fourth row together.
The remaining rows should be laid in the same order as the first four. The finishing of the planks to the right place is carried out with a hammer through a wide block of wood, the last panel is finished off through a clamp.
The assembly of the floor is carried out sequentially in the selected direction, while the coating is laid from the longest wall and from left to right. The distance between the ends of the planks of adjacent rows should be at least 50 cm.
If the last plank does not fit due to lack of space, you can trim its comb with a chisel. This removes the part that rises above the upper side surface of the board.
To fix the top side of the plank, apply glue in a thin bead and adjust the plank with the traction block. Insert spacers into the gap between wall and floor. After that, you can proceed to the installation of skirting boards and overlays on the joints.
If the cover strip rests against the pipe, drill a hole 16 mm larger than its diameter to create an expansion gap. Adjust the board so that it fits in place, then glue the sawn off piece. Close the cut holes with decorative elements.
The parquet board was popular at all times. And today's fashion does not bypass it. At the same time, if you install the parquet board with your own hands, you can significantly save on repairs. Let's try to understand this issue in more detail.
Rules and subtleties
The first copies of this building material were presented to the world in the early 40s of the last century. A small company from Sweden set itself the task of producing an equivalent analogue to expensive parquet. The second task was the desire to significantly speed up the process of laying the floor, since with a small parquet it was necessary to sweat a lot.
The presented board consisted of two layers and was not widely used. The prototype of the modern coating appeared on the construction markets eight years later. And its main difference from its predecessor was the appearance of another layer.
To date, the dimensions of the parquet board have differences depending on the manufacturer. Its length in its minimum dimensions is two meters, in its maximum - 2.6 m. The width starts at 13.9 cm and ends at 21 cm. The average thickness is 14 mm.
A three-layer board consists of a stabilizing layer, a base layer and a top layer. The bottom layer protects the product from the concrete base. It is made from spruce veneer. Additionally, it prevents the board from deforming.
The central layer is made from pine. Special strips are laid out across the entire width of the product. And the top layer is directly responsible for the drawing. Depending on the price, these can be species of expensive and less valuable wood. Among them are oak, maple and alder. In African countries, cocobolo and mahogany are used. Fix the slats to the board with glue.
The fibers of the main layer are not parallel, but perpendicular to each other. Due to this, good fixation is achieved and the building material is not deformed.
The base can be tinted or whitened to give certain shades. Heat treatment and brushing are also carried out.
The top layer may consist of polyurethane, oil or wax. Some manufacturers additionally cover with alkyd varnish. Since the front layer is sanded and varnished, this building material becomes wear-resistant, moisture-resistant and lasts a long time. The main thing is to properly install it.
It is very important to pay attention to what exactly the parquet board will be laid on. The floor must be leveled, capital, without chips and depressions. Only a minimal drop is allowed, otherwise the board will not hold.
No need to tempt fate and lay parquet board in rooms with high humidity - bathrooms, kitchens, swimming pools. Otherwise, the laid floor will quickly become unusable.
After transporting the building material, it is necessary to let it get used to the temperature and humidity of the room. Usually, experts wait about two days, after which they proceed with the installation. In this case, the temperature in the room should be above or equal to 17 degrees, and the humidity should be moderate.
Like laminate flooring, parquet boards are laid along the sun's rays, thus hiding seams and minor defects. Do not forget about the substrate. It acts as a noise canceling material.
Tools and fixtures
Start laying the parquet board only after measuring the humidity in the room. Its performance should not exceed sixty percent. A device called a hygrometer helps to make measurements.
A set of tools designed for parquet board installation:
- Electric jigsaw. For domestic use, a conventional jigsaw made in South Korea, Japan, European Union countries or the United States of America is suitable. In the hardware store you can find good copies of domestic manufacturers. The main thing is that the power of the device should be at least 550 watts.
- Hammer or mallet. It is not necessary that this hand tool be from a well-known manufacturer; for domestic needs, any one that is at hand will do.
- Roulette and square. Suitable for measuring work.
- Pencil. You can use the construction one, you can use the usual one.
- mounting bar. With this device, you can reduce the load on the interlocks and on the parquet board itself. Cracks and chips in this case are excluded.
- Wedges. They are used as limiters between a wall, a door and a parquet board. Remember that it is unacceptable to lay building materials without limiters, otherwise, at the time of temperature and humidity changes, the board may fail.
- Cutters and staples. Required to secure the last row.
- Hacksaw. A wood saw may be required when fitting the last boards.
- Perforator. With its help, holes are drilled for docking at the location of the heating system. The first holes are made with this tool, and the subsequent work is done with a jigsaw.
- miter box. Will be an indispensable assistant in the installation of plinth.
- sealant and notched trowel.
Types and methods
The floating method of laying flooring is the most popular all over the world. Of the restrictions, only the size of the room can be called - it should not be more than 60 square meters. m. In this case, the base must be leveled, and the parquet board must have either a lock connection, or an ultralock, or a combo.
The second method of laying parquet boards is on polyurethane adhesive. With it, the concrete base must be leveled, the surface must be dried and dry. The moisture content of the screed should not exceed three percent. Special sheets of plywood are laid on the screed, which are subsequently polished.
The glue is applied to the surface using a spatula, the parquet board is knocked out with a bar to improve the effect. The glue dries in about 24 hours. But remember that some manufacturers advise using their own adhesive mixtures, so it's best to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer's recommendations in advance.
In some cases, experts resort to a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. If you fix the board with self-tapping screws at a certain angle, then it will fit securely to the base. This method is known among stackers as mechanical.
The methods of fastening the board were discussed above, now it is worth familiarizing yourself with the methods of laying it.
The parquet board is easiest to lay either along or across the room. Often this method is chosen, since installation does not require certain skills and experience. If you lay the parquet board along - along the length, then the room will visually become longer, and if across, then vice versa, it will increase in width.
Mirrors will help enhance this visual effect. This must be taken into account in rooms of non-standard shape.
Diagonal masonry is only possible for professionals in their field. It is less economical than paving along or across, as it produces a sufficient amount of trimmings. From a design point of view, the diagonal laying method works best in square rooms. You will need a miter saw to make the right cut. The saw cut angle should be equal in some places to 45 degrees, in others - 30 degrees.
Laying starts in the center of the room. To maintain a straight line, it is necessary to pull the thread or draw with a felt-tip pen on the floor. The first row is the central one, you can continue to lay from it both in one direction and in the other.
The herringbone layout has been known to many since Soviet times. The parquet was laid in this way. The principle of installation is no different, the only difference is in the length of the parquet board - it significantly exceeds the length of the parquet.
Deck laying is slightly different from the longitudinal method - the offset of the new row should be more than half the parquet board of the previous one. Thus, good fixation is achieved, which means that the life of the floor covering is increased.
Foundation preparation
Before laying a parquet board, you need to take care of the base. The subfloor not only levels the surface, but also contributes to noise reduction and thermal insulation. Craftsmen recommend making a capital foundation and never returning to it again. This approach saves not only money, but also time and effort.
The draft floor has two varieties - dry and self-leveling. The first variety is made on logs, and the second is performed using concrete. For a wet floor, concrete expanded clay can also be used. You only need to build on the presence in the hardware store and on the financial situation.
The self-leveling draft floor is mainly made in prefabricated city houses. This is due to the fact that the floors of such houses are made of reinforced concrete slabs. In country houses, it is possible to make a concrete screed, but this requires an appropriate foundation.
Remember that you need to pour a concrete screed only after fixing the waterproofing. For this, a plastic film sold in a hardware store is quite suitable.
If waterproofing is not done, it is likely that liquid concrete will get through the cracks to the neighbors living on the floor below. Therefore, the film must be fixed thoroughly, and along the edges of the room it should be supplemented with penoflex.
The next layer of the "pie" is the insulating material. Of the frequently used ones, polystyrene foam and penofol can be distinguished. The latter has an additional coating consisting of aluminum foil, which reflects heat. Foamed polyethylene is a novelty in the construction market, its cost is slightly higher than its predecessors, but due to its unique features, the material is gaining popularity.
It would be useful to cover the thermal insulation material with another layer of waterproofing.
Before pouring the floor with a concrete screed, beacons must be set. The screed will subsequently be aligned on them. For accuracy, you should use the building level, it must be of suitable size and characteristics.
Concrete expanded clay has improved sound absorption and thermal insulation. It is the benchmark in this segment and is head and shoulders above aged concrete.
Knead the solution according to the instructions, then pour it onto the prepared base in a short time. The leveling of the concrete screed is carried out using a tool - the rules, do not forget about the beacons. Surplus must be removed without regret. After the surface becomes smooth, the floor is left to dry.
A rough wooden floor is mounted on a concrete base. To do this, logs are laid on the prepared surface.
At the same time, the base must be leveled and not have significant distortions, otherwise the parquet board laid on such a base will “creak”. And the floor itself will be crooked.
If the concrete floor in the room is uneven, it is recommended to “correct” it slightly. It is correct, from the point of view of the installers, to use an additional layer of screed. A small amount of solution is enough to just trim this flaw. The next step is started after it has completely dried.
Subsequently, you need to put a waterproofing film on the screed. All slots are thoroughly glued with ordinary adhesive tape. As sound insulation, you can use natural material - cork or the previously mentioned polyethylene foam. Without this layer, there is a high probability of noise when walking.
Directly for the lag, it is best to use a high-quality edged board made of solid wood with dimensions of 25 x 100 mm. It is undesirable to save in this matter, otherwise the result will be disastrous. Remember that the miser pays twice. Logs are installed on a noise-reducing layer, the result of the work is constantly checked using the building level. Attach the lags to the floor with corners.
The insulation is laid between the lags in such a way as to be flush with them., there should not be any protrusions. Plywood is laid on top of this structure. If the budget is limited, then plywood can be replaced with a floorboard.
Remember that the thickness of the plywood must be more than 20 mm, otherwise it will deform under the weight of the human flow. Massive furniture can also negatively affect thin plywood.
Plywood must be laid in a checkerboard pattern. This ensures that the joints will not be in the same row. Installation is carried out using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. Do not forget that you need to lay plywood, indenting from the wall. It must be at least 3 cm.
If the house is wooden, then the draft floor can be installed along the supporting beams. Beams in this case will play the role of a lag, which means that thanks to this you can save a lot. But remember that r the distance between the beams should be small, otherwise you will have to "build up" an additional base from the log.
Substrate selection
If the parquet board is laid without the use of polyurethane adhesive (or any other), then a substrate must be laid between the product and the base. Manufacturers also give recommendations on the underlying layer. This layer is in the form of non-woven rolls or is ordinary mats.
The underlay helps the parquet board to adhere tightly to the concrete or wooden floor, thereby reducing the likelihood of squeaks or other extraneous noise.
The backing layer protects the interlock from premature breakage. It retains heat well in the room, prevents damage to the parquet board under the influence of moisture.
Despite all the advantages, it is worth remembering that they are achieved only if the substrate thickness does not exceed 3 mm. "Overdose", as in the case of tablets, leads to negative consequences, in particular, to the destruction of parquet board locks.
The choice of substrate is determined by the type of subfloor. For concrete, you can use a "non-breathing" substrate. And for a wooden base - only from natural materials, because if you use polyethylene, then the tree can begin to rot under the influence of moisture.
The most affordable is the elastomer backing. It is produced in three varieties. Non-crosslinked polyethylene can be called ordinary, in the second “place” - having a layer of aluminum foil - either on one or both sides. And foamed polyethylene, just do not confuse it with polyurethane and polypropylene.
The popularity of this synthetic material is due to its affordable cost, ease of installation, and excellent water-repellent properties. The material does not deteriorate under the influence of a chemical environment. Unfortunately, there is also a significant disadvantage - during operation, the material may settle, which means that air will appear between the base and the parquet board, which can lead to a creak.
Another synthetic material is used as a backing layer - expanded polystyrene. On sale it can be found in the form of an accordion, there are also improved versions with a foil heat-reflecting layer. This material is easy to install, it protects the parquet board from moisture, has good noise-reducing qualities, and retains heat. Unfortunately, it also has its downside - the high cost.
Underlayment made of pine or spruce is sold in hardware stores as softwood mats. The coniferous substrate is suitable for any subfloor bases. It has all the previously voiced qualities, like other representatives of this segment. Of the minuses, experts note the high cost and installation - it is uneconomical and labor-intensive.
In addition, like any natural material, it is damaged by pests and fungal spores. It is desirable that the thickness of the substrate be less than 5 mm.
Construction paperboard was developed in the country that invented the parquet board. Therefore, we can safely recommend this underlying layer as an alternative to the rest. Cardboard is dense, it is very difficult to tear, it “breathes”, and has noise-reducing qualities. But like any paper, cardboard does not tolerate moisture; it should not be laid in kitchens or bathrooms. Another downside is the cost.
Cork underlayment is available in the form of special sheets and rolls. It is a natural building material obtained by pressing the bark of a tree. The bark of oak is most commonly used. Glue it with various resins. Like any natural material, it is subject to colonization by fungal spores, so it is imperative to lay waterproofing.
In the store there are varieties that have two layers. The second waterproofing layer is either rubber or bitumen. The addition gives the product soundproofing qualities, resistance to deformation and static electricity. Depending on the presence of the second layer or its absence, the thickness of the cork substrate can be either 2 or 7 mm.
One of the latest innovations in the construction segment is the Tuplex underlay, which is suitable for parquet boards with a thickness of over 10 mm. This is a synthetic material consisting of a double polyethylene film and a filler. The filler is mainly made of polystyrene. The underlayment is also suitable for the "warm floor" system. Adhesive tape is used to fix it.
A plywood underlay is required only when leveling the base. If there is no such need, then the substrate is not needed.
You can choose a backing layer at any hardware store, starting only from your preferences and financial situation.
Laying on concrete
As an example, the adhesive laying method will be considered. Before starting the installation of parquet boards, it is necessary to treat the concrete floor with an acrylic primer. The application layer should not be too thick. After the primer covers the entire surface, you need to wait until it dries.
Glue in its physical parameters should not resemble liquid sour cream, it is better that it be denser. The adhesive is applied to the concrete base in any convenient way, preferably with a brush. It is spread over the surface with a wide metal spatula.
Without waiting for the glue to dry, a backing layer is laid in the form of plywood sheets. The glue must be applied evenly in all areas so that the plywood lies equally even - the work is checked using the building level. Plywood is laid in any way, there is no difference, the main thing is not to forget to rub the seams with acrylic sealant. After two days, the work is again checked by a level, and if the installation is done with high quality, then it is necessary to fix the result - to grind the surface.
A belt sander is suitable for this stage, it speeds up the process and does its job efficiently. To achieve the same result with sandpaper will not work.
The second stage is connected with laying the parquet board, either polyurethane adhesive or acrylic is suitable for this. First, wedges are installed - they limit the parquet board, and the gap is 10 mm.
Glue is prepared in small containers and used in the first minutes, the board is laid with spikes against the wall. To spread the adhesive, you will need a spatula with a notched design.
If the next row is cut by a third, then a beautiful pattern can be achieved. In addition, the lock connection will hold better and will not collapse after a while. The leveling of the parquet board should be checked with a spirit level.
If the adhesive protrudes through the edges, it must be removed. After installation of the floor, all seams are sealed with sealant. The fine finish of the parquet is done after waiting five days.
If the room has a wooden lining, then the floor is installed without glue and self-tapping screws. The main condition is the small dimensions of the room or terrace. In this case, the lock connection will cope with its task with a bang, and the parquet board will last a long time.
How to put on the "warm floor"?
First of all, I would like to note the fact that for a warm floor it is necessary to lay a parquet board made of either oak or walnut. It is these two types of wood that, in terms of their physical indicators, ensure compatibility with it, since they do not deform under the influence of temperature. If the base is maple or beech, then such a board will fail in a short time period, because their thermal conductivity is higher.
It is very important to take into account the thickness of the parquet board, and if the board is thick, then the effect of "warm floor" will not be felt. The fact is that a thick tree will not let heat out. Only products whose thickness does not exceed 14.5 mm cope with this task.
The floor must be laid in a floating way. With this method of laying, the tree does not deform under the influence of humidity and when the temperature changes. Not the last role is played by the floor heating system. Remember that wood is flammable, which means that there is a risk of fire.
Warm floors are infrared, water and electric type. Water and electric underfloor heating have been known to the world since the beginning of the last century. Electric heating elements are cables, but in a wooden box there is a risk of fire, and water ones are completely forbidden to be laid in city apartments, since neighbors can be flooded from below.
Infrared film floor heating was invented in South Korea a few years ago. This is a kind of novelty, although indirectly it can be called a kind of electric heating systems. At the same time, it is worth remembering that the temperature set on the thermostat should not be higher than 28 degrees.
A water floor is the best option for country cottages, provided that the overlap between the basement and the first floor is made using wooden bars. It has significant disadvantages, including:
- Wear of plastic pipes. There is a high probability of flooding the basement and damage to the parquet board.
- Problematic temperature control.
- The floor will be raised ten centimeters.
- Be sure to have your own boiler room.
There are a number of rules when installing a parquet board on a heating system. Firstly, the installation is carried out only by a floating method, using plywood as a substrate. Secondly, the parquet board should not heat up to 30 degrees and above. If this happens, the tree will become unusable.
You can lay the parquet board on the underfloor heating system yourself, but for this you need to carefully study the algorithm of work, and if you have doubts about your abilities, it is better to contact specialists.
Installation technology
Let's take an infrared warm floor as an example, since this novelty is the easiest to install with your own hands in city apartments and country houses.
The step-by-step instructions assume that the installation is carried out on a prepared concrete or wooden base, it must be leveled, clean and dry. The differences should be checked with a building level, they should not exceed 2 mm.
For a concrete floor, grinding is to be done, and for a wooden one, scraping. It is very important to clean the surface after completing the work, using a vacuum cleaner and a broom.
Next, you need to secure the heating system from the actions of the concrete base, for this a sublayer is laid. Polyethylene acts as a waterproofing and thermal insulation. It is important to mark out the infrared floor system, find a place for the sensor and thermostat. He is responsible for setting the temperature. Infrared mats are mounted with the film down, fixed to each other with adhesive tape. Bituminous insulation protects products from the external environment.
After all the connecting steps, the operation of the underfloor heating is checked. If the heating occurs evenly, then a plywood layer is attached on top. It is on it that the parquet board will subsequently be installed.
Laying solid parquet boards can be done by one person. Modern models with locking combi boxes are easy to install and reliable in operation. It does not matter whether a two-strip or three-strip parquet board will be used, the installation procedure for all products is the same and it has already been discussed in the previous sections.
How to dock?
Unfortunately, the parquet board does not tolerate moisture, and in some rooms it is necessary to make a transition between the board and tiles or other building materials. Most often, docking is used in the corridor - in front of the front door, between the corridor and the kitchen, between the bathroom and the corridor.
In studio apartments, country houses and other premises, the joint with tiles without a threshold can be sealed with sealant and a liquid plug. It is desirable that the sealant matches the color of one of the building materials.
Remember that a colorless sealant is a general purpose sealant that will work in most cases. Unfortunately, a poor-quality substance will quickly become unusable and the repair will have to be redone. Apply it with a gun or syringe.
Liquid cork can be applied even by a non-specialist in this field, since it is like a glue. Glue holds two building materials together, does not deform or crumble. It is desirable to apply it after pre-treatment of the surface with oil. After the glue dries, it is cut off with a knife. To do this, you can use a construction or clerical knife.
As a decorative material, a wooden cork, plastic or metal profile can be used. A cork made of wood is mounted at the joints before grinding. The main feature of this material can be called the fact that it takes on various geometric shapes, and this looks beautiful in most interiors. Another plus is that the lock connection is not damaged during the operational period.
Metal and plastic profiles are laid only in a straight line. The profile protrudes above the surface. From a design point of view, this is the worst option. The metal profile, as a rule, has additional holes, screws will have to be screwed into them.
Remember that you need to work with a tile with a special drill, otherwise it may lose its presentation.
Wall and ceiling mounting features
Mounting parquet on the wall and ceiling is another recent trend. Thus, the unity of the interior is achieved, a kind of “box” is obtained. Such a room is suitable for placing acoustic systems - a home theater, a music room and a projector room.
You need to fix the parquet board on a special frame, something similar was considered in one of the sections - laying the floor on logs, only in this case the guides are located on the ceiling and on the walls.
If the sheathing is fixed on the wall, and even more so on the ceiling, only with the help of a locking connection, then such a structure will fall apart like a house of cards. This is fraught with injuries and abrasions. Therefore, self-tapping screws are additionally screwed into each parquet board.
The transition between the ceiling and the wall can be left straight, but for elegance, the craftsmen recommend bending the parquet board. With the help of a milling cutter, small indentations are made, after which the board “gives in”. The radius is selected by trial and error, but remember that it should be the same on all walls. The ceiling finish is completed.
Common mistakes
Often, the installation of a parquet board begins immediately after its purchase. This is one of the common mistakes. The building material must "get used" to the temperature conditions of the room, its humidity.
Remember that the temperature should not be below 18 degrees. The parquet board should lie idle for at least two days.
The subfloor must necessarily be leveled, only differences of about 2 mm are allowed. It is best to use expanded clay concrete, it gives the surface not only a leveled appearance, but also thermal insulation and sound absorption. All further actions are performed only after one hundred percent drying.
The waterproofing and underlay layer allows the parquet board to be used for a long time without creaking, and if you save on them, the result will be the opposite.
It is very important to lay the parquet board last, but if you need to wallpaper the walls in the room, then you need to start with them. Remember that wallpaper after pasting release moisture when dried, which means that the humidity in the room will be increased.
The wooden base of the parquet board is not intended for rooms with high humidity, its performance must be normal and comply with the recommendations given by manufacturers.
Examples in the interior
- In a country house with a parquet board, you can beat the upper floor at the transition point of the wall to the roof. Such a smooth transition is achieved due to milling grooves, it is only important not to forget about self-tapping screws when fastening. A conventional locking joint will not be able to withstand the own weight of the parquet board.
- In studio apartments It is very important not to forget that the parquet board does not tolerate high humidity, and from this it follows that it is advisable to lay tiles or moisture-resistant parquet in the kitchen or in the corridor. Docking in this case can be done in any convenient way. In an apartment, most often such a transition is made in the hallway, because if you step on the parquet board with wet shoes all the time, then it will become unusable in a short time.
Creating flooring using parquet modules is becoming popular. Laying this material requires special skills, a new level of wood processing technology has brought parquet flooring to the leaders of the construction market. By adhering to the instructions, you can perform it on your own, skillfully handling a specific tool.
Required materials and tools
Before starting work on the installation of the popular floor, prepare the required tools:
- electric jigsaw;
- comfortable hammer;
- building corner 40 cm;
- pencil;
- roulette;
- block for fitting parquet;
- wedges for restriction;
- metal bracket;
- wood saw;
- drill;
- angle cutter
Laying sequence
The parquet module is made as a multilayer product from several types of wood, placing them in layers. Material should be purchased from a manufacturer who practices the assembly and repair of such floor coverings. Since it is unprofitable for them to sell low-quality goods in advance, then problems will arise when completing the floor. There are a large number of sites on the Internet that offer step-by-step instructions for creating wooden flooring on your own.
Floor preparation
Scheme of laying parquet floor
Before laying a new floor covering, the main floor is put in order. You can mount parquet on an old wooden floor or concrete screed. In the case of a wooden coating, check for the possibility of failures, damage and other things. In case of inconsistencies, it is required to apply putty, and then putty.
In case of extensive damage, the old flooring should be disposed of. The wooden floor that has become unusable is carefully dismantled, cleaning the surface of the remaining debris and chips. If the surface is a concrete screed, before proceeding with further activities, you need to carefully sweep.
When the draft floor is ready, work begins on the installation of wooden modules.
Soundproofing flooring
Before starting work on joining parquet, you need to:
- Check the horizontal level of the rough floor with a building level.
- Install soundproofing.
Underlayment must be laid to separate the underside of the wood from the concrete floor. This material has multi-purpose functionality:
- smoothes out defects and irregularities of the rough screed;
- protects parquet from moisture;
- maintains the thermal insulation of the room;
- cushions while walking.
With temperature fluctuations in the room during the seasons of the year, some deformation of wooden products and the lower floor occurs, but the materials expand differently, so the substrate is a kind of barrier between them.
As insulation use:
- cork sheets;
- cardboard with the addition of felt;
- crushed extruded polystyrene foam.
These materials additionally perform the role of sound insulation. To enhance adhesion, glue is well suited, which must be applied to the subfloor and rolled.
Remember! Excess adhesive causes the backing to bulge and prevent further work.
Before starting laying work, it is necessary to measure the floor with a tape measure. This is necessary to calculate the number of parquet boards. After the preparatory measures, do-it-yourself laying of the parquet board begins.
Laying process
During the laying of parquet, it turns out beautifully if they are oriented in opposite directions, but more often they are oriented along the long side of the wall. A design technique has been developed that visually expands or lengthens the room: a certain direction of the wooden module. With proper planning, the parquet is oriented in relation to the light. The diagonal arrangement is beautiful, but there is a lot of waste.
We apply a thin layer of glue - 0.5 cm with a notched trowel. The parquet must be mounted along the long wall of the room, the first plank of the parquet is placed in the corner, using retaining wedges 6-8 mm thick. These gaps provide compensation for parquet expansion during the warm season. Lay the parquets end-to-end along the wall, cut the last one to the desired size, leaving a gap.
The next row starts from the extreme module of the second row. In the case of assembling modules according to the drawing, parquet trimming will be required. The latest types of parquet are equipped with locking joints, so they put a new board to an already laid one at an angle of no more than 20 degrees, pressing forward and down. To increase the dynamics, use a rubber mallet. It is required to obtain a reliable connection of the locks of parquet fragments. Each row at the junction with the wall is fixed with a wedge.
When the flooring is finished, you can carefully remove the wedges along the walls and remove any excess insulation sticking up above the floor between the wood and the wall.
This installation method is called glueless. The adhesive method is also common, which is based on applying the adhesive mixture to the subfloor. Such a method:
- used when working on a large floor area;
- requires serious attitude and attention;
- accuracy of the work.
If you need to replace damaged parquet in the future, you will have to tinker and change not one, but 2-3 neighboring modules. When laying parquet fragments, unexpected obstacles such as fragments of the heating system or wall ledges come across. You can cut out sections of parquet boards using an electric jigsaw with a blade for woodworking.
In order not to spoil its appearance during the operation of the wooden coating, soft material is glued to the legs of the furniture.
Installation of skirting boards
Installation of skirting boards is the last step in creating a floor covering, when the do-it-yourself laying of a parquet board is completed. Fragments of the plinth should be fixed with special parts - kleimers. First you need to carefully remove the protruding parts of the substrate and sound insulation. The installation step of the kleimers using self-tapping screws is 45-50 cm, but it is correct to leave segments 20 cm long from the corner.
If the wooden board was attached using the glue method, before installing the skirting boards, you need to wait 24 hours for the glue to dry completely.
There are two options for attaching the plinth: to the floor or to the wall - the choice of installation depends on the quality of the material and the type of subfloor.
Conclusion
The most expensive and durable parquet products can be irreparably damaged by improper and illiterate installation. Payment for the installation of parquet modules by a professional team will be expensive, doing the work yourself will save the family budget. Installing a parquet board on your own is not difficult, you need to carefully study the step-by-step instructions and follow it. In every work there are some specific subtleties and nuances.
To increase the service life of wooden parquet flooring, there are general rules for caring for such a floor.
Even the most high-quality and beautiful material can be spoiled by illiterate editing - this is the bitter truth of life. Although paying almost the same price as for a purchase, not everyone strives for a construction team: is laying a parquet board really that difficult? Not at all - the main thing is to know the important nuances and do everything step by step. And how exactly - now we'll figure it out.
If you still have questions after watching, read on.
Laying technology: step by step
Let's say right away: laying a parquet board is not laying a parquet or laying a laminate. It really has its own subtleties and nuances.
Stage I. We acquire high-quality material
Today, more than a hundred types of wood are used for the manufacture of parquet boards, and the initial quality is completely different. Therefore, we will give you valuable advice: purchase a parquet board only from those companies that themselves are engaged in such repair work. They will not order material from manufacturers, which then does not fit together and creates a lot of problems. Such is the subtlety. As for the type of parquet board, three-layer is the most popular today. From the name, you already guessed that it really has three layers: the top, also called the front, middle and bottom:
- The top working layer has a thickness of 1 mm to 6 mm (the thicker one will always withstand more polishing than the thinner one). This layer must be coated with varnish or special oil.
- The middle one usually consists of short sheets of softwood, or less often - of special moisture-resistant plywood. It is in the middle layer that all the connecting elements for bonding parquet boards are usually located.
- The bottom layer is already made of pine or spruce plywood 2 mm thick. The main task of the bottom layer is to prevent the parquet board from bending or deforming.
If you are going to lay the parquet board so that it resembles a massive one, then take the material with a solid front layer. The planks of such a parquet board can be glued in the form of "herringbones", "wickerwork", "squares" or "deck". But the most durable is considered to be the lock connection at the Swedish parquet board - the company Khars. The manufacturer claims that such a connection can withstand up to one and a half tons to break.
Stage II. Preparing the base for laying
The most important thing in this matter is to properly prepare the base for the board. So, according to unverified data, up to 90% of subsequent problems with the appearance of the laid parquet are caused by the quality of the subfloor, and not by the marriage of the material itself. So, what is still acceptable:
- 1-3 mm difference per linear meter
- humidity up to 2-3%. To check this value, use a modern moisture meter.
If the base is clearly not even and even has bulges, use special level masses (only based on dry mixes). Carefully inspect the old screed and work on loose areas, defects and dirt. If the humidity value turned out to be more than acceptable, then overlap the vapor barrier film on the floor, then sealing the joints with construction tape, or apply a special primer.
Experts recommend laying parquet boards at a humidity of 40-60% and a temperature of 20-25°C. It should be noted that the parquet board behaves more stably than solid wood: it reacts less to changes in temperature and humidity, and is more resistant to static and dynamic loads.
Stage III. We put a special substrate
To lay a parquet board in this way, you definitely need a substrate that will separate the unprotected board from the base. It will immediately perform several important functions:
- Evens out small irregularities and defects in the base.
- Provides additional waterproofing.
- It will make the floor of the parquet board even warmer.
- It will become a useful shock-absorbing layer, valuable while walking.
And, finally, the underlay performs another valuable function, which is rarely mentioned: it does not allow the parquet board to crawl on the base in case of temperature changes. After all, screed or gypsum has its own expansion temperature, and it differs significantly from the same parameter for the coating. This is the danger of the absence of a substrate on the screed: literally a year after such movements invisible to the eye, the accumulated cement or gypsum dust begins to seep through the cracks.
As a substrate, you can use foamed polyethylene, extruded polystyrene foam, sheet cork or six-felt cardboard. This is from materials known for a long time. But today professional ones are already gaining popularity. Here is a laying master class on such a basis:
The parquet board is also often laid on. After all, this natural and environmentally friendly material still has excellent noise protection. And the technology of gluing such a substrate is extremely simple - as with wallpaper: polyurethane glue is applied to a clean, dust-free surface and the cork is rolled. After that, you can immediately lay the boards. However, during such work, do not overdo it with glue - otherwise the cork will warp and swell with bubbles.
Stage IV. Getting ready to install
When laying a parquet board on an old wooden floor, be sure to measure its moisture content - this material is hygroscopic. You can direct parquet boards as you like, but more often they are oriented along the length of the room for the sake of organicity of the entire interior design. Although the designers themselves often use the texture of the floor to visually expand or lengthen the space. If the room is perfectly square - lay in the direction of the light. You can even diagonally - however, there will be a lot of waste later.
Tip: if you find specimens with defects or non-uniform coloring in a box with a parquet board, leave them for trimming.
Stage V. Learning to connect boards
Different manufacturers produce their own parquet board and prefer a certain type of fastening:
- Paste method;
- Castle connection, also called "click";
- With fixing brackets or tightening straps.
The most convenient, of course, is the lock connection. In this case, the grooves and plug-in combs are joined without any other means - you just need to insert the comb of the board at an angle into the groove of the other, and smoothly lower the first board to a horizontal position. After that, a couple of light blows are enough, and that's it. 
Here are the main advantages of this method:
- Fast laying;
- No need for additional equipment or facilities;
- Wood has room for thermal expansion.
If at some point in the room you cannot lift the board for docking, then just use a hammer with a bar. Yes, this requires a lot of precision and accuracy. Tip: when joining the coating with the door frame, start laying with the board wound under the jamb.
The insertion method, of course, loses to the previous one: with such laying, you constantly have to use a bar and a hammer, and replacing damaged boards in the future will take a lot of time. But near heating systems and door frames, it is easier to lay such boards, and grooves and plug-in combs are less likely to be defective.
But laying parquet boards using staples or a belt fastening system is more used for parquet boards that have a thickness of 15 to 21 mm. At the same time, the boards themselves still need to be glued, and in the future it will be difficult to disassemble the floor.
Stage VI. Laying parquet board
So, today parquet boards are laid mainly in two ways: adhesive and floating. Adhesive Adhesive method involves fixing the boards to the base by gluing. So they put it on a cement-sand or concrete floor, on a gypsum screed and level-mass. If you choose this method, be sure to pay attention to the recommendation of the board manufacturer himself - what requirements he puts forward. All this can be found in the attached instructions. Here's how to lay a parquet board with an adhesive method:
- Step 1. We prepare the base: we check for evenness, completely remove dust and process it with a synthetic primer (water is undesirable). In total, it should take you a little more than a kilogram per square meter (it all depends on the screed and the quality of the primer itself).
- Step 2. Lay out the parquet boards from the first two boxes in the order in which you will mount them. Apply glue.
- Step 3. Putting the first board. It must be longer than its width. We leave an expansion gap of 6-12 mm between the wall and the floor.
- Step 4. We knock the second board to the first - through a special bar. Boards need to be glued within ten minutes.
- Step 5. When you cut the last board, immediately use the rest of it to start the next row.
- Step 6. Insert small wedges or spacers into the expansion gap between the wall and the floor (you can see them in the photo).
- Step 7. After you glue a few rows, carefully check if there are any gaps.
- Step 8. When all work is completed, close the seams with acrylic sealant or cork chips. Alternatively, you can also put a special metal threshold.
Tip: for convenience, use a square - only with it you can draw really straight lines.
The so-called "floating" method of laying parquet boards has many advantages. Most importantly, there are important gaps for ventilation and an imperceptible change in the shape of the board when the temperature changes. As evidence: in winter, with good heating, you can notice small gaps between the boards - and in summer they are not visible. Moreover, the wider the board itself, the more noticeable. These are important processes! And, if you chose a parquet board with a high-quality lock, then it will last much longer than a regular glued one. You can see the process in more detail in this photo-instruction: 
The "floating" floor from the parquet board is laid in two ways: using the same glue and "castle". In the first method, the boards are not glued to the base, but to each other, and in the second, they are connected without glue. Lock connections also have subspecies: with “turn and click” or with “hit and click”. Say, the speed of such assembly is really impressive - just a couple of hours.
You can put everything on your own:
- Step 1. Start from the left corner of the room with the so-called "latch side" to the wall.
- Step 2. Take the board with both hands, and, holding it at an angle, lay it on the edge of the board of the first row. The edge board that will adhere to the walls should not have grooves - cut them off with a planer.
- Step 3. Start the second row with the rest of the first row. But, if it turned out to be less than 30 cm, cut the new board in half.
- Step 4. When you lay the parquet board at the threshold, check all the time whether the doors open as easily as before.
Just trim the bottom if needed. In addition, there should always be at least a centimeter of distance between the door threshold and the wall. Another important thing - to tightly connect the boards to each other, use a wooden or rubber hammer, only lightly tapping it. Do not take the usual one - damage the floor.
On sufficiently large areas, this laying method is not very suitable - the integrity of the entire coating is violated. The floor will creak and even warp. Therefore, in spacious rooms and halls, parquet boards can only be glued. That's all!
Difficult laying - warm floor and logs
If you are going to lay a parquet board on a warm floor, first of all find a material on sale that would suit the future temperature regime. After all, not all breeds are sufficiently resistant to deformation, especially maple and beech. It is better to give preference to oak or walnut. But keep in mind that the maximum temperature for which any parquet board is designed is 26 ° C. And in order to understand whether the parquet board you have chosen is generally suitable for underfloor heating, look for a special icon “suitable for underfloor heating” and instructions for such installation on its packaging.
All this can help you find and consider a seller or sales manager. If there is nothing of the kind on the material, do not take my word for it. If it is possible to choose, then for such a coating it is better than electric - heating occurs evenly, and the wood expands more quietly. True, the floor level will have to be raised high.
If you still decide to lay on, the ease and speed of installation will delight you. You will place the cable on a heat-insulating material (preferably foil-coated), and you can immediately fix a parquet board on top. Convenient to place under the floorboard is also popular: minimal thickness, perfectly even coverage and easy installation. But not many like its radiation. In any case, it is possible to lay a parquet board on such a base only in a “floating” way - after all, the wood will slightly change its parameters from heat. Below is a picture of the installation process.
If you are laying the parquet board on beams or logs, make sure that they are dry and as strong as possible. Miss this moment - over time, the floor will creak unpleasantly, and even deform. It is also important that there is good ventilation under the lags and that water vapor does not accumulate. In general, these are all difficulties. The best way to lay parquet boards on logs is this:
- Step 1. We prepare logs, check for moisture and integrity.
- Step 2. We lay a layer of durable plywood.
- Step 3. We put the parquet board: using glue or on a cork, which will help to slightly remove the static load on the logs themselves (squeak prevention).
Less commonly, but they also practice this method: the parquet board is attached directly to the joists themselves with the help of staples or nails. Then the logs should go in increments of 60 cm, and take the parquet board itself thick enough.
And finally, we will tell you about a newer technology for preparing the base for laying the board - this is. A minimum of time and costs: special logs on plastic bases are simply used, which not only slightly raise the floor, but also allow you to carry out the necessary communications under it. Thermal insulation is obtained, of course, much better than a conventional concrete base. Feel free to experiment!
The parquet board has become a replacement for the well-known parquet. Much cheaper and easier to install. However, the latter is not entirely true. Yes, installation of a parquet board is easier, but this does not mean that installation will not take time and effort. You can also screw up here, which will lead to spoiled material. The right technology for laying parquet boards is the key to high-quality flooring. We will analyze how to properly lay the material in the article.
Before buying a material, you need to know its advantages and disadvantages. What are the advantages of parquet boards? The board length reaches two meters, there is no need to lay small separate planks. Previously, planks were made on the basis of two layers, but now manufacturers have begun to produce a three-layer material, so it is much stronger and tougher.
All three layers are made on the basis of natural wood, which means that the material has all the advantages of wood. Absolutely eco-friendly and safe, suitable for installation in the nursery.
Planks are attached to each other in a locking way, like a laminate. If you compare these two materials, you can find flaws here and there. More durable and wear-resistant all the same laminate. But only the class starting with marking 3. If you plan to buy a class with marking 2, then there is no difference.
Decorative properties of a parquet remain always on top. The beautiful appearance of the wooden coating will delight you for a long time. Over time, the material will not lose its external data, if properly cared for. 
However, when decorating an interior, a parquet board will not suit any style. Wooden floors rarely fit into modern stylistic trends, they are more suitable for classic ones.
It has a parquet board and cons. One of the biggest drawbacks is the fear of temperature changes. Like any material made of natural wood, the plank reacts to changes in air temperature: in summer the board shrinks, and in winter, on the contrary, it swells. 
There may be gaps that need to be removed. The board will not withstand heavy loads. Therefore, it is not recommended to put heavy furniture on it, so as not to damage the material. At the same time, the board is afraid of cleaning with chemicals and moisture. 
Of course, if you have the funds to buy a particularly durable material coated with various kinds of protection compounds, then the board is quite suitable, but if your budget is limited and you do not want to spend either time or money on surface care, it is better to abandon the board in benefit of laminate. 
Boards are divided into three types according to their type: select, nature and rustic. Select is suitable for those who like perfectly even and smooth surfaces. You will not find any defects on the board. At the same time, the texture of the board is monophonic.
Natur board is distinguished by a wide choice of colors. If a standard wooden pattern does not fit your interior, then you can choose this type. But you can meet knots on it. Rustic is suitable for a certain interior. This type is designed for a specific design because the board will be uneven with knots and cracks. It is more suitable for decorating your own rustic-style home than for an apartment. 
There are two ways to install a parquet board: floating and adhesive. The latter is rarely used. This option is possible only if you install the board directly on the concrete pavement. This will significantly reduce the life of the material.
Boards are also laid on glue in rooms with high humidity. Thus, the joints are completely sealed and water will not penetrate under the material. But laying the board in the kitchen is a dubious undertaking.
Do-it-yourself parquet board laying
The installation of a parquet board is not much, but still different from the installation of materials of this type. It has its own characteristics, which cannot be neglected. Therefore, do not use "general" installation guides, but always refer to the installation instructions for a specific material.
Purchase of material
The choice of parquet boards is not limited to color and texture. It is also important to choose the type of wood. The modern market has more than fifty different options. At the same time, the quality will also differ depending on the type of tree. Buy material from trusted sellers. It is easier to order through companies that themselves establish they have no marriage.
When choosing a color, give preference to light tones. On such a coating, scratches and other defects will not be visible. If you still want a dark board, then choose a matte finish. Gloss, of course, looks expensive and luxurious, but the slightest flaws will be visible on the surface. And over time, these are formed in any case. 
If you are going to install a "warm floor" system under the board, then this is quite possible. But you can not use varieties of wood that absorb moisture. You perform the installation of the system entirely at your own peril and risk. Check the board for cracks at the joints. Defects on the surface are left on purpose, but no deviations along the edge of the board are allowed. Check everything thoroughly.
Foundation preparation
Preparing the floor for a parquet board is one of the most important steps. The appearance of the cladding depends on how carefully you carry out the preparation work. Often the cause of deformation of the floor covering is precisely the wrong preparation of the base. 
First of all, the base must be level. Small deviations are allowed, not exceeding 2 mm per linear meter. If the irregularities are visible to the naked eye, then you will have to fill in the screed.
If it is already there, then check its quality.
Small holes and cracks can be repaired with putty, but in case of large damage, the old material must be removed and new material filled in.
After leveling, be sure to check the moisture content of the concrete base. This can be done using a special device or the old-fashioned way: a film is glued to the adhesive tape and left for a day. If there is no condensation, then the humidity level is normal. 
If you are laying a new floor on a wooden base, then you need to check the old floor for cracks and holes. Small cracks can be covered with putty, and in large cracks a plank is placed according to the size of the hole and sealed with the same putty. Some advise using a sealant, but it can crack later.
Substrate laying
The problem with many floor coverings is the need to lay the underlay. The cost of the material can reach the price of the facing coating. At the same time, it is not profitable to use cheap analogues, because the substrate must withstand the same service life as the cladding. 
Before laying the substrate, it makes sense to lay a layer of waterproofing. In its quality, an ordinary film is suitable. The sheets are overlapped by 15 cm and go to the wall, and they are fastened together with adhesive tape.
The substrate acts as an additional guarantor of the protection of the facing material. It can take on itself into the water if it hits the material, hides small irregularities in the base. And most importantly, the substrate prevents the bar from rubbing against the base, which increases its service life.
Alternatively, you can use polystyrene foam from inexpensive options. The highest quality material is cork sheets, but their cost is high. The substrate is laid end-to-end, no overlaps. Covers the entire perimeter of the floor. For fixing to the base, double-sided tape is suitable, which is glued at the junction of two sheets. The substrate does not fit under the installation on the adhesive.
Floor covering installation
floating method
The answer to the question of how to lay a parquet board depends on the chosen installation method. Floating installation starts from the opposite corner from the door. In this case, the planks are laid along a long wall. Before work, install wedges with a gap of 1 cm. This is necessary so that the board has a move if it dries out. The gaps are then closed with skirting boards.
The first bar is installed with the back to the wall. The second is attached to the lock to the pen. At the same time, you will hear a characteristic click - it means that the lock has clicked into place. This is how the whole row fits. The last plank usually needs trimming.
The next row is connected to the previous one. At the same time, it also needs to be docked with the already installed bar of the new row. Different manufacturers make different mechanisms. Somewhere you must first insert the planks of the previous row into the groove, and somewhere you need to dock with the board in the row. Read the instructions carefully. 
Thus, the entire floor is filled. After the boards are installed, the wedges are pulled out. If you laid the film, then it is cut off and skirting boards are placed.
glue method
Installation is carried out on a special glue for parquet boards. In this case, the substrate is not installed. The adhesive is applied to the base with a notched trowel. Spread it evenly over the floor area. After that, the planks are simply laid on the glue, and the excess is rubbed off. On such a floor can not be walked until the composition is completely dry.
Sometimes a parquet board is laid on logs. The technology is completely identical to laying a conventional wooden floor. But this option is only suitable for boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm.
But since the parquet board is not the most durable material, this method is rarely used.
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