How to cover the old wooden floor in the house. How and with what to cover the wooden floor in the house. How to paint a wooden floor in the country. Fiberboard boards are marked depending on the density

The wooden floor is environmentally friendly and safe cover which maintains a comfortable indoor climate. Unlike synthetic materials natural wood exudes a pleasant forest aroma and does not emit toxic substances. The tree is distinguished by strength. Durability and aesthetic appearance. It is pleasant to the touch and has a beneficial effect on the well-being of a person.

Advantages of a wooden floor:

Promotes oxygen renewal and supports comfortable atmosphere in the house;
durable and reliable coverage;
Long service life;
Safety and environmental friendliness. The material does not emit hazardous substances and does not cause allergies. Wood, on the contrary, has a positive effect on the state and mood of a person;
Availability;
Good heat and noise insulation;
Wear resistance and suitability for repair. If necessary, you can easily replace damaged areas of the floor yourself.

Despite the positive properties, wood needs protection and processing. Natural raw materials are subject to negative impact moisture and insects. Without special tools, the coating will gradually crack and rot. Protective compounds protect live material from such problems. They will not only extend the service life, but also improve the appearance of the floor.

Today there are many various means, including varnishes, paints and wax. Wax is rarely used today. It contains beeswax, linseed oil and other additives in small amounts. Such a composition is resistant to moisture, but at the same time it does not provide effective protection against mechanical damage, including heel strikes, traces of furniture, etc. Therefore, we will take a closer look at paints and varnishes and find out how the wooden floor is processed correctly.

Lucky

Varnish - effective remedy, which will protect the coating from mold, fungus and insects. It perfectly preserves the structure and emphasizes the original appearance of wood. Varnishes are transparent (glazing) and opaque (cover). A transparent coating will retain the natural color of the wood, but will last only 3-5 years. The opaque composition can be updated every 6-7 years, while it will allow you to achieve the desired shade or shine of the wooden floor.

In addition, the following types of varnishes are distinguished:

Water-soluble - the most environmentally friendly and safe composition that dries quickly and adheres to the floor surface. But you can only apply such varnish special rollers, and the coverage will have to be renewed at least once every three years;
The alkyd type characterizes resistance, durability and a high degree of wood protection. But be prepared that such a varnish dries for two or three days;
Polyurethane material is wear-resistant, so it is suitable for rooms with high mechanical stress. This varnish is used to treat the floor in the hallway, living room and even in a cafe;
Formaldehyde varnish guarantees a durable and reliable coating that is resistant to different temperatures. But when painting, it releases dangerous chemicals, so it is important to work only in a respirator;
Oil products are more susceptible to the negative effects of precipitation and humidity, so such varnishes cannot be used to treat the floor in the gazebo or on the terrace. However, they are suitable for interior decoration. wooden house. Oil varnishes are often used to update an old coating. They revitalize the wood and make the surface shiny;
Acrylic varnish forms a transparent shade without yellowness. This safe remedy odorless with a long service life. They are moisture resistant and offer a wide range of gloss options. It is advisable to use such funds for rooms with low traffic, including a bedroom, a nursery, etc.

Regardless of the type of varnish, it is important to read the instructions before use and, if necessary, consult a specialist. It is important to understand whether this or that product is suitable for your type of room, wood type and type. floor covering. It is important to know how to apply varnish, whether protective equipment is needed when working with the material. Compliance with the rules of selection and staining will achieve the desired result.

Paints

If you want to give wood specific color or shade, choose colors. They also protect the wood from moisture and decay, harmful bacteria and insects.

Today, manufacturers offer the following types of paint:

Vinyl paints are used for both exterior and interior woodworking. They are moisture resistant a wide range colors and inexpensive cost. However, such funds are not popular among owners. wooden houses, because when evaporated, they release toxic substances harmful to health. In addition, the vinyl composition fades and cracks quite quickly;
Oil products are characterized by rich colors and a homogeneous structure, resistance to temperature extremes and low price. Such paint will create a bright and fashionable image wooden floor. However, such a coating dries for 24 hours. In addition, after 2-3 years you will have to paint the floor again;
Polyurethane paints, like similar varnishes, are distinguished by wear resistance and long service life. Such materials effectively protect wood, but they are toxic and expensive;
Alkyd compounds when stained spread bad smell, which will remain for several days and after drying. Among the advantages of such a paint, resistance to moisture and precipitation, temperature extremes and other negative factors are distinguished;
Water-based acrylic paints are in great demand today due to their resistance to high humidity, frost and ultraviolet radiation. They are distinguished by a long service life, which is up to 10 years! Manufacturers offer a wide range of colors, which includes two thousand different shades. It is a safe and environmentally friendly composition that does not fade. Therefore, acrylic materials are effectively used for painting facades.

Paint for processing a wooden floor, first of all, is chosen according to the degree of environmental friendliness. Therefore, the best way would be alkyd compounds water based. They will protect the wood and give the floor a noble look. Moreover, due to the stability and durability, it will not be necessary to paint the coating more than once every 8-10 years!

How to paint a wooden floor

A rational option would be to paint the wooden floor first with paint and then with varnish. Coating with one varnish will not provide adequate protection for wood from mechanical damage. But the varnish is better finishing will fix the paint coating, give the desired shine and look of a new fresh floor.

Before painting the floor, you need to prepare the surface. Clean the wood from dust and dirt. If the floor has been painted before, remove the old coating with a spatula or sandpaper. Then the surface is polished, cracks and gaps are eliminated with putty. A new wooden floor can be treated with drying oil or a primer before painting to enhance the protective properties and reduce paint costs.

Apply paint only on a completely dry surface! Paint the floor with a roller, spray gun, for hard-to-reach places use a brush. Please note that the spray gun and sprayer do not always allow you to achieve an even layer. In addition, it can leave unpainted areas.

Start painting from corners, baseboards and other hard-to-reach places. When painting, stir the paint composition regularly and do not forget about ventilation. The paint is applied in two layers parallel to the direction of the boards. The second layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried!

When the paint dries, the floor can be covered with two or three layers of varnish. Do not forget that you can apply each new layer only when the previous one dries! Apply paints and varnishes smooth strokes to avoid bumps and bumps.

Masters of the MariSrub company will help you choose the right products and answer any question of interest! They will paint inside and outside the house, provide a full range of services for the construction and decoration of log buildings.

Today, many owners of apartments or houses are striving to make environmentally friendly and warm floors from natural wood. However, over time, wooden floors shining with freshness lose not only their visual appeal, but can also be physically destroyed under the influence of various factors.

Therefore, in order to extend the service life wooden floors, they need to be processed special composition, which will reliably protect the wood from destruction. Moreover, you need to choose only those means that are allowed for carrying out exactly internal works. Let's find out how you can cover a wooden floor.

What is the best wood flooring?

Before applying the protective layer wooden surface floors need to be prepared. To do this, it should be thoroughly cleaned of oils, grease and other substances that reduce absorbent properties. To protect the floor, you can use several types of coatings.

Lacquer coating is applied to the wooden floor in 2-3 layers. After that, the varnish should dry for 1-2 weeks. The lacquered surface of the floor suggests that you can only walk on it in soft shoes without heels. Otherwise, the lacquer coating can be quickly scratched.
Oil coating, most often made from natural wood or linseed oil, unlike varnish, it is well absorbed into the wood. Therefore, it is great for wooden floors in, or in the kitchen.
Another natural wood floor finish is wax, made from beeswax. Such a coating favorably emphasizes the texture of wood and gives it a more intense shade. Waxing a wooden floor is done every 1-2 years.
Today, wooden floors are relatively rarely covered with paint. Before painting, the floor must be opened with drying oil or covered with a primer. Let it dry for 3 days. Then you can paint in two layers. The first should dry for about a week, only after that you can paint a second time and also dry the floor well.

There are rooms in a house or apartment where ordinary wooden floors are very short-lived. For example, in the bathroom, due to high humidity, it can rot very quickly and the floors will have to be redone. Therefore, before covering a rough wooden floor with any paint or varnish, any coating that is not afraid of moisture must be laid on top of it. It can be moisture resistant linoleum or laminate.

Well, from the old wooden floor, before covering it with any of the listed products, it is necessary to carefully remove the remnants of the old paint.

Very milestone home improvement is the choice of a suitable floor covering and its correct installation. One of the most preferred options is wood flooring. Wood is an environmentally friendly, breathable material with excellent performance and properties. With the proper knowledge, you can cope with the installation of such a coating with your own hands.

Select suitable wood for flooring. At this stage, you need to take into account the climatic conditions of the region, the level of planned surface loads, the features of the operation of the premises and, of course, your financial capabilities.

In small living spaces, it is best to lay flooring from conifers. Such material is sold at a relatively affordable cost, differing, at the same time, in a sufficiently high strength and durability.

Of the representatives of the middle and higher price range, give preference to oak. Aspen wood is also used for arranging the floor. This material is especially well suited for flooring in children's rooms, as well as in bedrooms.

For self decking coverings in living quarters, only dry wood can be used. The problem with wet boards is that they shrink in size as they dry, causing ugly and completely unnecessary cracks to appear in the coating.

When buying a material, make sure that it does not have any noticeable defects such as splits, third-party stains, cracks, etc. Do not buy such wood even with a good discount.

Pre-calculate to determine required amount material. To do this, you just need to know the area of \u200b\u200bthe premises. Buy the material itself with a 10-15 percent margin.

For flooring, it is recommended to use a board with a length of 200 cm or more. It is highly desirable that all the boards offered to you be included in one batch. So you can be sure that all the purchased material was manufactured and processed under equal conditions. Therefore, texture, color and other external characteristics boards will be about the same.

Flooring is best done using edged and tongue-and-groove boards. Such material does not require additional grinding, which will allow you to significantly save time on installation work.

Wood flooring can be done using several different materials, namely:

solid boards;
solid parquet board;
glued parquet board. It has the same appearance and is practically not inferior in terms of performance characteristics parquet board from the array, but is cheaper;
parquet.

Preparing for flooring

The flooring is done in two layers. First, the foundation is laid, then the wood itself.

There are two main ways to install the flooring: laying on the ground on logs and on floor beams. When choosing the appropriate method, consider the features specific premises and your personal preferences.

Before installation, carefully process all wooden elements antifungal and fire-prevention impregnations.

The base of the erected floor must be waterproofed. For moisture insulation it is convenient to use penofol or polyethylene. Penofol simultaneously provides high-quality hydro and noise insulation properties, therefore it is more preferable.

Base mounting

The functions of the base for independent flooring can be performed by logs, plywood and concrete. Familiarize yourself with the features of the methods and choose the most suitable for your case.

Foundation on logs

Fastening the flooring to the logs is the most popular option for arranging the floor. This design allows you to easily and effectively hide floor irregularities and lay various communications under the base without any problems.

The base is assembled from a 10x5 cm timber. In low rooms, it is better to refuse this method - the finished structure will take about 8-10 cm in height.

Before starting to mount the base, you should bring the logs into the room and let them lie down for a couple of days to wood material adapted to its environment.

Select the step for fixing the lag in accordance with the dimensions of the boards used. It is important that in the future the boards do not sag.

First step. Lay one log at the same level at opposite walls.

Second step. Pull dense parallel threads between the laid lags. The distance between the threads depends on the thickness of the floorboards. If your boards are more than 3 cm thick, pull the threads at a distance of about 80 cm, but if the flooring elements are thinner than 3 cm, then the threads should be pulled at a distance of no more than 60 cm. If you use boards with a thickness of more than 4 cm, you can increase the distance between the threads to 100 cm.

Third step. Set the lags, focusing on the stretched threads. Adjust the mounting height with wooden wedges. It is important that all lags are set strictly at the same level.

Logs must be fastened to the base. If the base in your house is made of wood, fix it with self-tapping screws or nails, if it is made of concrete, use dowels or anchors.

Fourth step. Fill the space between adjacent joists with thermal insulation material. You can lay foam, mineral wool, expanded clay, etc.

In the process of laying the boards will need to be attached to each installed log. Preliminary in the material you need to prepare holes for self-tapping screws. An electric drill with a drill of the appropriate diameter will help you with this.

An excellent base for future quality flooring can be made from plywood. High-quality plywood is almost not subject to deformation during the use of the floor. The material is characterized by high strength and reliability.

If necessary, the floor on the plywood sheets in question can be quickly and easily removed. When laying the base, you do not have to carry out any additional work– the flooring is mounted directly on plywood sheets.

First step. Place the plywood sheets on the base and, using ordinary chalk, draw a diagram of the future laying of the elements. Focusing on this markup, you will install the logs, and already lay sheets of plywood on them.

Second step. Install lags. Optimal step- 400 mm. Align the logs with linings from the same plywood. All elements must be installed strictly at the same level. Attach the aligned logs to the base. Choose fasteners according to the base material.

Third step. Glue the finished structure with glue so that the floor does not crack in the future.

Fourth step. Cover the system with rolled glassine or other material with similar properties.

Fifth step. Lay the plywood. The edges of each sheet should lie on the logs. Place the plywood sheets themselves with a small gap, no more than 1-2 mm. To fasten sheets, use self-tapping screws - about 8-9 fasteners per sheet. Sand the joints carefully.

You can align if you wish. concrete base using a screed and lay the flooring directly on the floor, without the installation of an additional base.

In such a situation, it is important that the boards cannot come into direct contact with the concrete. Soil mastic or ordinary polyethylene foam will perfectly cope with the functions of the intermediate layer. When using polyethylene, place insulation sheets with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

First step. Start fastening boards from any wall. Leave a 15mm gap between the wall of the room and the boards of the starting row. After completing the installation of the flooring, you will close it with a plinth. Drive in screws or nails at a slight angle, trying to deepen the heads of the fasteners into the wood by about 2 mm.

1 - lag; 2 - bracket; 3 - wedges; 4 - doboynik

Second step. After installing the first floorboard, step back about 50 mm from the edge and drive brackets into the bars with an insignificant gap, and then insert a thin rail into the gap that appears after that.

Third step. Drive a wooden wedge slightly larger than the gap left between the installed rail and the fixed brackets. Thanks to the wedge, the edges of the boards to be laid will be pressed as tightly as possible, which will prevent the appearance of cracks. Staples can be removed after fixing the boards with screws or nails.

A - construction brace; b - wedge clamp with a movable bracket; in - rack compression
1 - bracket; 2 - wedges; 3 - lag; 4 - spur; 5 - emphasis; 6 - movable bracket; 7 - clamping screw; 8 - stops; 9 - gear wheel with a ratchet - dog; 10 - handle; 11 - screw with stop

That is, you need to work according to this scheme: they laid a couple of boards, pressed them with a rail and a wedge, and fixed them with self-tapping screws. Lay the entire flooring according to this scheme. Before attaching each next board it must be further compacted with a mallet.

Fourth step. Sand the joints of the boards.

Fifth step. Hide the gaps between the walls and boards with a floor plinth.

Sixth step. Lay down top coat, for example, a parquet board or any other material at your discretion. You can do without finishing flooring, but simply paint the boards, cover them with varnish or other composition.

Wood is a high-quality and durable material with excellent performance and properties. However, in order for the flooring to fully show its properties, you, as a performer, are required to follow the instructions exactly and follow the recommendations received at each stage of work. Follow this simple guide and everything will work out.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself wooden flooring

In this article, we will analyze what types of wooden finishing floors are. Plank floors, parquet, chipboard and fiberboard floors, cork flooring will be considered in detail. In each paragraph, we will reveal the main pros and cons of these types of wooden floors, as well as pay attention to the moments in laying and caring for each type of wooden floor. In the parquet section, we also present types of parquet such as: pronto-parquet, parquet board, block parquet, type-setting parquet and panel parquet.

Plank floors

plank floor

Plank floors are floorboards (edged or tongue-and-groove), which are laid on beams or logs. Batten is lumber that has rectangular section. Dry boards with a thickness of 21-60 mm and a width of 65-250 mm are used as floorboards. Standard lengths - from 2 to 6 meters. The grooved floor board must be planed on all four sides. The grooved board has a profile on each of the long edges: on one side - a groove, on the other - a ridge. This simplifies the assembly of the floor, and adjacent boards are connected without gaps. If it is not possible to use tongue-and-groove boards, then edged boards are used. Each edged board during assembly should be tightly adjacent to the adjacent one.

Features of plank floors

The material of the plank floor is natural, environmentally friendly, which is its plus.
The disadvantages include the need for painting, and antiseptic treatment, as it takes time and additional investments are needed.
Depending on the quality of wood, climate and other operating conditions, after a certain period of time, plank floors may begin to creak and lag behind the log.

To correct this defect, the boards are removed, and then they are laid again close to each other. If cracks form due to the drying of the boards, then thin hewn slats are driven into them, previously lubricated with glue (casein or carpentry). small cracks sealed with putty. If the boards began to sag underfoot, they lay the floors and install new logs, placing them closer to each other .

The wooden floor reacts to changes in temperature and degree of humidity in the room. If the air humidity is insufficient, the wood will dry out (dry and crack), if it is excessive, it will bend. Optimal Humidity in a room with a wooden floor should be 45-60%, the temperature is approximately + 20 ° C.

To solve the problem of drying edged boards, chamfers are made (a chamfer is a board edge beveled at an angle of 45 °). Then, when laying the floor, there will be a groove between the boards, which visually separates one board from the other, when they dry out and slightly disperse, it will no longer be very noticeable.

The characteristics of plank floors depend on the wood from which they are made, as well as on the protective coatings.
On average, the service life of a wooden floor without repair is 4-6 years.

Protective coatings for wooden plank floors:

In order for wooden floors to serve for a long time, it is necessary:

antiseptic boards from the reverse (inner) side;
paint them or varnish them with outside.

Antiseptic. Antiseptic is carried out to protect the boards from putrefactive fungus. For the treatment of boards, water-soluble antiseptics are used: sodium fluoride, ammonium silicofluoride or ammonium fluorosilicate (they are diluted in water in the percentage specified in the instructions, then the boards are covered with a brush or sprayer). From insects that destroy wood, an antiseptic paste of sodium fluoride and sodium sulfate is used. These components are diluted in water in a ratio of 5:1:2.

Painting. Varnishing. Painting, varnishing is carried out from the outside of the board. Lacquer and paint keep wooden floors from damage and abrasion. From paints use oil paints for floors, one-component varnishes are chosen from varnishes (that is, they are based on one component), polyurethane and acrylatex, diluted with water. They are easy to apply, almost no smell, dry quickly. Polyurethane varnish usually applied in two coats.

Note. Nitro-varnishes are unsafe for human health and undesirable for use in a residential building.

Painting rules:

First you need to clean the floor from dust and debris.
Water-dispersed paint is applied with a brush in the direction along the boards.
To avoid streaks, paint each board separately, without going to the next one.
You can also use a spray gun for coloring.
When the floor dries, the color becomes lighter, and the floor receives a rich shade after applying a transparent polyurethane varnish over the paint.
Lacquer, like paint, is applied along the boards.
If you apply a second coat of varnish, then do it after a minimum of 2 hours and a maximum of 48 hours.
If you want to varnish your plank floor only, then it is desirable that the planks be made of wood with a beautiful natural wood grain pattern, like oak and mahogany.

Alternative types of wooden plank flooring:

"Aged floor". The board is scraped, roughness is formed on the surface of the wood. Then it is covered with varnish or floor oil.

Tinting. Tinting is the painting of floorboards with stains or oils in different colors. This coating gives the wood a certain color, while leaving a visible wood texture.

Oil coating. Floor oils include natural vegetable oils and wax. Oil impregnates wood to a depth of about 2 mm, prevents decay, disinfects, protects against fungus. The oil coating is suitable for allergy sufferers. An oiled floor will look like it was made from exotic wood - suitable for this purpose wide board oak.

In narrow rooms, plank floors are laid along the length of the room.
If there are no boards of the required length, then they are docked, while the junction should fall on the logs.
When laying the floor on a concrete base, a board with a thickness of 21 mm or more is used. If the floor is laid on wooden logs, then - not less than 37 mm.
When buying boards, check them for curvature by laying them on a flat surface with planes and edges.

Parquet

Parquet- wooden flooring, consisting of individual planks of hardwood. For the manufacture of parquet, such types of wood as birch, maple, oak, beech, ash, merbai, wenge, bamboo are used.

Parquet features:

Advantages:

natural materials are used;
the coating is antistatic (does not collect dust);
when laying parquet, the aesthetic value of the entire room increases;
good heat insulator.

Flaws:

parquet is difficult to install;
sometimes (depending on the type) additional surface treatment (grinding and varnishing) is required;
parquet is difficult to clean;
sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity in the apartment;

Thermal conductivity, sound insulation, service life and other characteristics of the parquet are determined and depend on the constituent materials of the parquet construction.

types of parquet a, b - planks of piece parquet; c - parquet board and the order of laying boards; g - type-setting parquet; d - parquet boards.

Types of parquet and their features

Block parquet

It is a set of strips with ridges and grooves for fastening. The slats are made of hard precious wood. Planks dimensions: thickness 15-22 mm, length - up to 500 mm, and width - up to 75 mm. Usually the length is a multiple of the width (for example, if the width of the bar is 70 mm, then its length will be 280, 350, 420 mm). The thickness of the slats - 15 mm for hardwood wood, 18 mm - for conifers.

There is also a size calculated on the wear of the bar - it indicates how many grindings the panel will take out - this is the top layer of the bar from the front side to the top of the ridge or groove. Wear determines service life parquet flooring. The thickness of the wear layer of planks made of hardwood is 7 mm, coniferous - 10 mm.

Features of piece parquet:

the possibility of replacing the strips during repairs;
the possibility of laying a variety of patterns - Christmas tree, deck, wickerwork, square, etc.;
parquet floors are practically non-slippery;
usually laid in the hallway or living room;
produced as with lacquered, and without;
durability (up to 100 years) depends on the type of wood and operating conditions;
reacts to high humidity (serves for a long time at humidity up to 30%);
piece parquet is attached to a screed (moisture-resistant plywood or subfloor) and does not create noise effects when walking.

Materials for piece parquet: oak, ash, maple, merbau

Types of piece parquet depending on the type of cut:

rustic. In panel cuts there are different cuts and fiber patterns. Knots up to 10 mm in size are allowed.

Select. Panels are created by radial and tangential cutting. Defects, knots, sapwood are not allowed.

Radial. Panels having one radial cut. Defects, knots, sapwood are not allowed.

Natur. In panel cuts, different directions of wood fibers are acceptable. Spot knot eyes are allowed.

The parquet must be welded tightly polyethylene film and packed in hard box.
On the surfaces of the planks - front, back and end - there should be no dark burn marks.
There should be no cracks on the planks.

And also, please note that when laying pre-lacquered parquet, there are requirements for the horizontalness of the base on which it will be laid. The base surface must be perfectly flat.

parquet board

The parquet board is a structure of three layers:

Upper layer parquet boards are made from valuable breeds trees. Layer thickness - 0.5-6 mm.

middle layer made from perpendicularly laid slats of coniferous wood (pine or spruce). Thickness - 8-9 mm.

bottom layer homogeneous - from pine and spruce, it is placed perpendicular to the previous layer. Thickness - 1.5 mm.

On top of the parquet is applied protective covering : varnish (apply acrylic varnishes formaldehyde-free) or a mixture of oil, wax and natural resins.

Average dimensions of a parquet board:

length - 180-250 cm;
width -14-20 cm;
thickness -1.4-2.6 cm.

Parquet board features:

easy to lay, has a tongue-and-groove locking system;
it is impossible to scrape (only grind), since a layer of 4 mm is removed with the first call of the scraper;
damaged parquet is subject only to replacement;
ease of care;
resistance to changes in humidity and temperature in the room - due to the glued three layers, located one perpendicular to the other;
due to several glued layers, impact resistance is increased. Impact resistance parameters are determined by the thickness of the layers and the material from which they are made. This data should be included in the description for a specific type of board upon purchase;
resistance to chips and abrasives;
service life - from 10 to 25 years - depends on the thickness of the board, material;
characteristics of thermal conductivity and sound insulation are made up of indicators of materials that are used in the design.

Types of parquet board:

Based on (according to GOST 862.3-86) :

PD-1 - is made on a single-layer rack base, which is assembled into rectangles, squares located perpendicular to each other. Along the longitudinal edges, the board is pasted over with slats.

PD-2- is made on a single-layer rack base, assembled in the longitudinal direction of the board axis.

PD-3- made on a two-layer rack base. Two layers (rail and veneer or two rails) are assembled perpendicularly and glued together.

By the number of planks:

Single lane parquet board. The top layer is made from a single plank from a single piece of valuable wood.
Two lane parquet board. The top layer consists of two strips of planks. Elongated strips - for large areas, shortened - for small and medium-sized premises.
Three-lane parquet board. The top layer is made from a triple row of planks. Their length is different, and the location can be arbitrary. Made in different color combinations.

Panel parquet

Panel parquet is a square panel-modules laid on a base of boards or fibreboard. The panel parquet is a design from 3 layers. The two bottom layers provide the rigid base of the parquet. They consist of planks of softwood (usually pine) arranged perpendicular to each other. The top layer is made of high hardness precious wood dies, its thickness is approximately 4mm.

Panel parquet is produced with a front surface, which is covered with parquet varnish- this reduces the complexity of laying and the cost of the floor. Dimensions of panels parquet modules: 400x400 mm, 500x500 mm, 600x600mm, 800x800 mm. Thickness: 22, 25, 28, 32, 40 mm. Dimensions of parquet planks - thickness 4-8 mm, length - 100-400 mm, width - 20-50 mm.

Features of panel parquet:

the complexity of laying: if you do not maintain a right angle when laying, then cracks form;
the small thickness of the boards allows laying parquet during repairs without removing the old floors;
suitable for indoor use common use with a high load;
the temperature and humidity conditions of the premises must be stable;
saves geometric shape and serves up to 60-75 years at a constant temperature, with humidity up to 40%;
the characteristics of thermal conductivity and sound insulation depend on the indicators of the materials used in the construction of the panel parquet.

Types of panel parquet

By type of foundation:

Parquet with frame base. The base frames are made in the form of a strapping with a connection in the corners with glue and spikes.
Parquet on a slatted base. On both sides, the base is lined with peeled veneer.
Parquet with chipboard base. Both sides of the board are lined with peeled veneer (the base can also be made of cement-bonded particle board).
Parquet with 2-slat base. The base rails are glued together in a mutually perpendicular direction.

Type of face covering :

Coated with parquet planks;
Coated with square veneer (sliced or peeled);
Coated with plywood board.

The characteristics are similar for all these types of panel parquet. The choice depends on the laying conditions, on the requirements for the appearance of the coating.

Stacked parquet

Stacked parquet

Type-setting parquet (mosaic) is a module square shape, consisting of strips 8-12 mm thick. On front part modules, a protective paper is glued, which is removed after laying the coating on the floor. Type-setting parquet is a kind of panel parquet. Planks are made from hardwoods. Such parquet is laid on a wooden or concrete base. It is glued to the mask. Module dimensions: from 400x400 mm to 600x600 mm.

Features of type-setting parquet:

laborious in laying;
used in living rooms, dining rooms;
decorates the interior beautiful pattern on the floor.

According to the method of fastening to the base and the profile of the edges stacked parquet happens:

With fastening "on a rigid lath". The planks that make up the module have grooves on one long and one short side, and ridges on the other two sides. Parquet is laid by nailing. It is rarely used due to the complexity of manufacturing.
With fastening "on a soft lath". The module slats have grooves on all four sides. This type is the most common.
Module strip with oblique edge.
Plank with a fold. On all sides of this parquet there are oblique folds that serve to fix the parquet with mastic. Builders believe that such parquet is the most durable and can last up to 40 years.

As a protection, the front side of the parquet is covered with a protective varnish;
On the back side, to increase sound insulation, a layer of sound-absorbing material is glued - rubber or foam.

Pronto parquet

Pronto parquet - multi-layer parquet: front layer - from solid wood(1); middle layer - pine plate (2); the base is made of spruce veneer (3).

Pronto-parquet is a multi-layer piece parquet made of natural wood. The layers of this type of parquet are made from different breeds trees: the middle layers are made of pine, ash, acacia, etc. The upper layers are made of: oak, walnut, mahogany, ash, beech, maple, cherry, ebony. Each layer is located crosswise with respect to the neighboring one. Pronto-parquet uses spikes and grooves. Total thickness- 10-14mm, top layer thickness - about 4mm. The number of layers of protective varnish 7-8. The wood is polished, then coated with a layer of varnish in the factory, which lengthens the life of the parquet and increases its strength.

Features of pronto-parquet:

comfortable styling;
the surface is absolutely smooth;
the process of preparing parquet elements takes about 7 months, and this ensures its high performance;
can be used in rooms with high traffic intensity;
has a high cost;
laborious installation process;
the base under the parquet must be perfectly flat;
the greatest strength among all types of parquet;
resistant to changes in temperature and humidity regime- can be used in rooms with humidity over 40%;
resistant to deformation;
the characteristics of thermal conductivity and sound insulation depend on the indicators of the materials used in the construction of the pronto-parquet.

Types of pronto-parquet. Pronto-parquet is produced with or without a lacquered coating (in this case, the parquet is varnished after installation).

Cork flooring

cork floor

Cork flooring - natural material from the bark of a cork tree. Natural cork flooring is a multi-layer construction. They are made using pressed - agglomerated - traffic jams.

Features of cork coatings:

environmentally friendly material;
the structure consists of particles containing within their structure a gas close in composition to air. Between themselves, the particles are separated by an elastic, waterproof shell. Due to this structure, the cork acts as a thermal insulator, sound absorber and shock absorber;
cork - antistatic, i.e. does not attract dust;
cork is hypoallergenic;
both dry and wet cleaning of the cork surface is possible;
It has healing effect- due to its elasticity, it is recommended as a floor covering for people with diseases of the musculoskeletal system;
cork laying is considered quite simple.

Characteristics of cork coating:

Waterproof.
No deformation of the coating surface when exposed to water.
Has bactericidal properties.
Abrasion resistant.
No slipping (creates friction when walking).
Chemical resistance.
Fire safety - G1 (flammable material).
Service life - up to 100 years.
Sound insulation coefficient - from 16 dB.
Thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.031 W/m*K.

Types of cork coatings

By installation method :

Adhesive. They are intended, as their name implies, for gluing tiles to the base over the entire area. "Adhesive" coatings are produced in the form of tiles with dimensions: 300x300, 450x150, 600x300, 450x450 mm, thickness 4 mm.
floating. Such panels are not glued to the base and have grooves and ridges on the edges for connection to each other (similar to a parquet board or laminate). "Floating" floors are panels about 900x185 mm in size, 4 mm thick.

Floating floors have a panel docking system:

Cork layers

Adhesive panel joining system: the panels are glued to each other by a tongue-and-groove connection.
Glueless docking system: the coverings are equipped with special profiled ridges and grooves - locks connecting the panels to each other. The floor can be easily disassembled if necessary. You can walk on it immediately after laying.

Typically, all cork coatings create an upper protective layer. Unlike adhesive coatings "floating" cork flooring have additional layers:

top protective layer;
under it is an inner layer of pressed cork;
fiberboard base;
a cork substrate is glued to it from the back.

The basis of fibreboard comes in different densities:

High density board (density greater than 850 kg / m 3) is an analogue of the Russian fiberboard - HDF (high density fiberboard);
Medium density board (density - 650-850 kg / m 3) - MDF (middle density fiberboard).

An additional layer of the base acts as the supporting base of the cork coating.

Types of outer protective layer:

Without external processing. The most environmentally friendly type of cork flooring.
Varnish coating. The surface is varnished, it becomes shiny. Lacquer protects the floor from dirt. Prevents water and dust from entering pores.
Coated with oil and wax. Oil penetrates into the pores of the material, but the properties of the cork do not change. A floor covered with oil will become darker, wax will make it shiny and glossy. Wax will protect the floor from dirt more than oil. The oil protects against the penetration of water into the pores of the material.
Coated with polyvinyl film. Dust does not stick to the film, dirt is easily erased from it.
Covering with veneer of precious wood species. This event is more of an aesthetic nature, but at the same time it also has protective functions, protecting expensive cork material from gross mechanical damage - frequent moving of furniture, from cutting and piercing objects, from the claws of pets, etc. This coverage is very expensive.

the material must be stored in a dry place;
panels must be in one-piece plastic packaging;
stack packs with cork panels one on the other horizontally face up (if the packs are placed vertically, the panels will be deformed, the ends may be damaged);
when cleaning, do not use metal brushes;
stick pieces of felt on the legs of tables and chairs (rubber leaves stains);
do not use carpets with a latex or rubber backing on the back.

Wood panel floors

This type of floor rarely serves as a finishing floor due to its characteristics.

There are two types of wood-based flooring: chipboard and fiberboard.

Chipboard floor

Chipboards- composite pressed sheet material from mixed dry wood shavings with urea- or phenol-formaldehyde resin, which is 6-18% by weight of the chips.

Chipboard boards rarely serve as a finishing floor. Only one type is suitable for flooring particle boards- PTP-3, GOST 10632-70. Plate dimensions: 600 x 2400 mm, 1200 x 2400 mm. Thicknesses: 8, 10, 16, 18, 25, 28 mm.

Features of chipboard (chipboard) :

quick and easy assembly;
special tools are not needed, since it is enough to have ordinary carpentry tools for processing plates;
deformed when saturated with moisture and further drying;
non-durable - serve up to 5 years;
with a tendency to mechanical damage when walking on sharp heels, rearranging furniture, etc.

The main characteristics of chipboard:

Fire resistance: with the introduction of flame retardants into the composition of the chipboard - flammability G1 (not produced in Russia);
Formaldehyde emission class. Shows the permissible content of free formaldehyde in 100 grams of absolutely dry board (according to GOST 10632-89). Plates come in two emission classes: E1 (up to 10 mg), E2 (10-30 mg).
Sound insulation coefficient - up to 29 dB.
Thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.2 W / (m K).

Types of chipboard:

Veneer (veneered). Veneer thickness 0.6 mm. Veneering improves its characteristics - increases the effect of thermal insulation, reduces the tendency to mechanical damage, improves the appearance of the coating.
Laminated. Laminate with melamine film high pressure and temperature. This makes the boards more resistant to moisture and damage.
Simple (polished and unpolished). Does not have a protective coating.

Hardboard floor

Wood fiber boards is a sheet material created in the process of hot pressing. At the heart of the boards are wood fibers intertwined and formed into a “carpet” (waste from woodworking processes, paper, plant stems, etc.). Paraffin is added to increase water resistance, and binding additives are added to strengthen it (marking T means that phenol-formaldehyde resins are used). MDF boards are produced in the form of square or rectangular sheets. Thickness - from 2.5 to 6 mm. For flooring, it is highly recommended to use fiberboard sheets with a thickness of 5-6 mm. According to the standard, the length is 1.2, 1.6, 2 and 3.6 m, the width is 1.2, 1.6, 1.8 m.

Features of fiberboard coatings:

well processed (sawed, ends can be trimmed);
the larger the sheets used, the stronger the coating;
to create the perfect flat surface you can pre-fill the floor with a self-leveling mixture;
fiberboard coating is painted alkyd enamel for external works;
moisture absorption up to 18% in 24 hours;
when humidity changes, they change sizes, the plate is deformed, fungus and mold may appear;
ignite faster than ordinary wood. ( To increase strength, durability and fire resistance, protection against fungus, the following are introduced into the composition: aqueous emulsions of synthetic resins, emulsions of rosin, bitumen, paraffin, antiseptics and fire retardants, as well as asbestos, alumina, etc.);
density - 941-1800 kg / m 2;
thermal conductivity coefficient 0.038 ÷ 0.044 W/(mK);
sound absorption - 21 dB

Fiberboard boards are marked depending on the density:

superhard - "ST" - density not less than 950 kg/m3.
solid - "T" - they are used for flooring, density is not less than 850 kg / m 3;
semi-solid - "PT" - normally solid, density 400 - 800 kg / m 3;
soft - "M" - do not use as an external coating. Density - no more than 350 kg/m 3 .

It is necessary to maintain the air humidity in the room at approximately 40%, the temperature - 20-22°C;
If the air humidity in the room is more than indicated, then in the autumn-winter period it is not recommended to leave the windows open for more than 5-10 minutes;
It is not recommended to wash the floor big amount water. It is advisable not to use detergents. Daily cleaning of the floor is best done with a vacuum cleaner or a very well wrung out slightly damp cloth (if there is a protective coating);
It is necessary to protect the floor from chemicals: solvents, oils, acids;
When installing furniture, protect the coating from scratches, chips. It is advisable to install furniture legs on soft pads;
Do not walk on the pavement in shoes with padded heels.