How to properly install eurolining on the walls. Do-it-yourself clapboard wall cladding: fashion for natural materials. Plastic lining

It is difficult to find a more common finishing material than lining, which people fell in love with largely because of its versatility and low price. Meanwhile, it has another noticeable plus, which is impossible to pass by - this is the ease of fastening. Almost every person, armed with the necessary tools and materials, can independently attach it to the wall. However, in order to be sure of the result, especially if you are doing it for the first time, it would be useful to learn about the main intricacies of this simple operation. Our today's step-by-step instruction is devoted to how to properly fix the lining to the wall.

Characteristics of the material. All the pros and cons

Materials of natural origin have always been held in high esteem by people. Even at a time when environmental safety issues were still of little concern. Basically, modern lining is made from tree species that grow almost everywhere:

aspen;
cedar;
Linden;
coniferous species.

Also recently, plastic lining has gained particular popularity. It imitates wood, but is cheaper. Someone looks at such a "surrogate" with a fair amount of disdain, but as sales of finishing materials show, they are a small minority.

Let's take a look at its main trump cards:

simple processing;
long-term preservation of operational properties;
disguise of engineering communications;
high soundproofing performance;
visual appeal.

What can be said about the shortcomings? Every material has them, and lining in this sense cannot be an exception.

susceptibility to moisture and temperature changes;
the possibility of drying and cracking under the influence of specific temperature conditions;
the potential for the appearance of fungus (how to get rid of fungus on the walls);
combustibility:
the presence of harmful substances (for plastic lining)

Do not rush to get upset: almost all of these pluses are easy to fix if you take care of preventive treatment with antiseptics and water repellents in time. Only after that you can confidently attach the lining to any wall surface, knowing that nothing bad will happen to it over time.

There is another option for using a metal lining:

steel;
aluminum.

Such material will definitely not rot or deform, and will not emit substances hazardous to life. However, it tends to get hot, so you should avoid placing it in places exposed to the sun, as well as near light sources and water pipes (read how to hide pipes without mounting them into a wall).

A few tips for choosing the right material will definitely not be superfluous. Moreover, there are a lot of options on the market, and it will not be easy for a beginner to figure out which material is better to attach to the wall.

try to choose boards with a maximum width - it is easier to carry out subsequent installation of the material;
in the case of vertical fixation of the lining, ensure that its length matches the height of the room;
the optimal choice of wood species for a bath is deciduous for a steam room and coniferous for a shower or dressing room;
the main criterion for the purchase is the dryness of the material, if you notice even slight moisture, refrain from buying, as installation will be impossible.

Preparatory moment. Markup and counting

It is present in every type of installation work.

make all the necessary measurements in the room;
calculate the required amount of finishing material;
decide how many consumables you need to buy for the frame structure;
equip your work area, getting rid of everything superfluous, if there is any dimensional furniture nearby, then it is better to cover it with a film to avoid contamination.

Preparation of tools and materials

Here, even a beginner, who has never taken on any home editing, is difficult to surprise with something. All the same classic set of tools:

perforator;
screwdriver;
level;
cord plumb;
meter;
pencil.

And here is necessary materials:

bars for crates;
dowels;
self-tapping screws;
nails;
kleimers.

And, in fact, the lining itself. Nothing would be possible without her!

Frame installation

The main thing to face at this stage is the choice of location. battens.

horizontally;
vertically.

To do this, proceed from how you will attach the material to the wall:

if the lining is located vertically, then the crate must be fixed in a horizontal position;
if the lining is placed horizontally, then, accordingly, the frame must be fixed vertically.

Everything else - according to the scheme:

prepare wooden blocks with a thickness of 1 centimeter and drill holes in them with a minimum step of 50 centimeters, they should be about 1.5 mm smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws;
attach the bars to the wall and mark points through the holes for subsequent drilling;
drill holes in the wall according to the marks made and insert the prepared dowels;
fix the bars to the dowels, controlling the accuracy of fixing with a level, you can also make a plywood gasket under the rail for convenient work, or buy wedges for leveling in the store and install the crate in this way with minimal effort.

Installation of lining

We have already noted above that lining boards can be mounted on the wall both horizontally and vertically. Each option has its own nuances, due to the specifics of use in a particular room.

Vertical arrangement

visually increases the height of the room;
pushes its upper and lower boundaries;
recommended for use in bath rooms, as it promotes optimal air circulation.

Fixation method: finishing nails, kleimers, decorative screws.

Installation nuances:

fixing should start from the corner;
after the board is leveled, it is nailed, and the hat is bitten off with a side cutter, if kleimers are used, then they are nailed to the frame, and the second part into the groove of the board;
when fixing the lining on the wall, check every 5-10 boards whether evenness is observed, a corded plumb line is ideal for this;
the last lining is adjusted to the desired size with a hacksaw.

Horizontal arrangement

increases the width of the room;
suitable for high rooms;
emphasizes the visual volume of the room.

Fixation method: finishing nails, kleimers, self-tapping screws.

Installation nuances:

fixation should begin from the ceiling and gradually go down;
every ten boards check the evenness of the fit;
the last board is cut to the desired size with a hacksaw;
all fragments are knocked close to each other with a hammer;
the joint between the wall and the floor can be closed with a beautiful plinth.

Informative video dedicated to the features of lining installation:

Of course, having carefully studied the proposed step-by-step instructions, you are unlikely to become a pro, but for your first "acquaintance" with the material, definitely prepare. Here are a couple more good tips to help you avoid common mistakes among beginners when attaching popular material to the wall:

the lining bought in the store should be unpacked and laid face down on any flat surface - it is advisable to let it stand for a couple of days and only then proceed with the installation;
the minimum allowable room temperature for direct installation is 5 degrees Celsius, if lower, any operations with the material should be postponed until "better times";
after the lining is already fixed on the crate, it is recommended to cover it with varnish - this way you can achieve a different type of texture on the surface: glossy, matte, with the effect of wet asphalt, stone, etc.;
you should not attach hardwood lining to the wall when it comes to outdoor work - only conifers are used for this purpose;
if you plan to use the lining in the bathroom, toilet, balcony or kitchen, then it is best to use an alternative made of plastic or aluminum - it will last much longer;
but for a bedroom, hall, hallway, a classic wooden lining is ideal;
do not use plastic elements in the steam room - high temperature provokes the release of chemical reagents that can adversely affect the health of you, your guests and loved ones.

Conclusion

Of course, knowing how to properly fix the lining to the wall can come in handy more than once in your life. Especially if you get your own home - and you will systematically equip all these countless square meters for yourself. There is absolutely nothing complicated about this - mounting a lining on a wall is one of the simplest finishing operations, and visible difficulties are nothing more than fleeting moments that easily go away with the accumulation of your experience.
You can improve your skills all your life - and why not start learning new things with the operation we were talking about today? To further expand your installation skills, we advise you to read the article: "How to fix drywall to a wall: 2 ways with photos and videos".

Photo: vk.com

Lining today is one of the most popular materials for home decoration, and it will be useful to learn how to mount eurolining on your own without outside help. It should be noted that this process is quite time-consuming, but, despite this, everything can be organized by hand.

Preparatory work

In order to avoid problems during the installation process, you must know a few rules, the implementation of which is mandatory:

it is necessary to properly store the lining. It should be in a package, in a room without strong temperature changes, so that the sun's rays do not fall directly on the material, and most importantly, the room where the lining will be stored should be dry;
two days before the start of work, you must get the material out of the package;
before starting repair work, it is necessary to remove all dust and dirt from the material. This can be done with a dry cloth;
do not forget to treat the lining with an antiseptic and leave for a while - so that it dries;
do-it-yourself installation of eurolining can be done at temperatures not lower than + 5 ° C, while the humidity should not exceed 55%;
in the event that you will cover the lining with any decorative coatings, the best option would be to complete this work before you proceed with the installation, then the material will be painted evenly.

Advice! Do not use varnish for painting eurolining, which is intended for use in baths. Choose compositions for outdoor or indoor use - depending on the use of panels.

We calculate the material

In order to correctly calculate the required amount of material for wall and ceiling sheathing, you will need to take into account the dimensions of the surface that you will be sheathing and the width of the board. It must also be taken into account that the spike of the longitudinal type in the process of attaching the board to the wall or ceiling will go into the groove of the previous board, which means that its width will decrease by 10-12 millimeters.

Example:

Sheathed surface 2.5x4 m.
The width of the board is 96 millimeters.
We take into account the insertion of the spike into the groove, we get: 96-10 = 86mm.
Further calculation is carried out according to the formula: 4000/47 \u003d 47 boards of 2.5 meters each.
We fix the lining on the wall.

In order to create a stylish interior in a room, you must strictly follow the rules for attaching eurolining. If you do not deviate from the instructions, in the end you will get a beautiful design, and the lining will serve you for a long time.

You must understand that you can attach the material directly to the wall only in the case of perfectly flat surfaces (unfortunately, walls and ceilings are very rarely perfectly flat), moreover, they must be made of wood.

On walls made of brick and reinforced concrete, it is strictly forbidden to mount eurolining, therefore, in order to create a beautiful construction of eurolining on your walls or ceiling, you need to install a crate of wooden beams.

We install the crate

The crate is wooden slats, most often their thickness is about 30 mm. They are attached to the ceiling, floor or wall, thereby forming the so-called frame for the further installation of the lining. The installation of the crate should be perpendicular to the fastening of the lining. To make it clearer, let us explain: if the lining is mounted vertically, then the battens of the crate should be located horizontally, and vice versa.

Reiki are fastened from each other at a distance of 60-80 mm, this is if you make a frame on the wall. If you install the crate on the ceiling or floor, then this distance will be 40 mm.

Tip: Do not forget, during the installation of the crate, you must use a level or plumb line to make the whole structure even.

Some do not understand why such a design as a crate is needed. After all, installing it takes a lot of time. In fact, it is necessary for several reasons.

If you want your interior to be perfect, even and proportional, then installing a crate is a mandatory step in creating a composition from. The second reason is the presence of ventilation of the boards, which is necessary for the normal functioning of the air in the room.

Do not forget! Ideal slats for creating a frame - 35x55 mm. They should not have any defects and they should be even.

How to fix the lining

There are several ways to fasten the lining, which we will now present to you. The design should be smooth and beautiful.

Fasten with screws:

To begin with, you must drill a small hole in the lining to secure the self-tapping screw, and this must be done from the side of the spike;
when we make the installation of lining. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the holes we made. Do not forget to cover their hats with a dowel;
If the dowels protrude, after all the work they are cut off. Don't forget to sand the surface afterwards.

Staple fastening:

In this way, the material is usually attached to the ceiling from the floor.
Fastening is carried out using a stapler, which drives the staples at an angle of 45 ° into the spike, thereby making it possible to install subsequent boards without interference.

Fasten with nails:

This method is not much different from the previous one.
The difference between them is that in this method, instead of brackets, they use .
In order to keep the nail heads from sticking out and not being visible, you will need a tool like a puncher, because the protruding heads will not give you the opportunity to continue with the installation of the next board.

Fasten with dowels:

The considered method involves mounting from below, and nothing else.
We fix the first board from below with self-tapping screws, and from below. Do not forget to twist the hats with a dowel.
After the work done, we proceed to the installation of the next panel. In the upper part of the previous board, directly into the spike, we screw the self-tapping screw, and so that its head is flush with the spike itself (with its surface).
On top of the attached board, the next one is superimposed, which, in turn, closes the fastening of the previous one. That is why the method is called secret fastening. It should be noted that the use of both staples and self-tapping screws is appropriate here.
After the installation process is over, you can start cutting the protruding dowels. If you do the whole process correctly, you will end up with a flat and smooth surface.

Any of these methods will give you a positive result, but only if you do everything correctly and consistently.

So, the instructions for fastening eurolining:

Let's start by taking one panel - we will set it strictly vertically. In order for everything to turn out clearly, it is necessary to use a level, and throughout the entire process, this is the only way you will ensure that the entire structure you are building will be even.
Do not forget that you will need to fasten the first board precisely from the corner (from which side it does not matter, you want it on the right, but you want it on the left).
The boards that you will expose next should be attached to the side of the previous board with a spike. We fix the board in any way you choose. If you have any questions, please see our

Today it is fashionable to replace plastic trim elements with wooden options, which gives the home comfort and warmth. The technology of wall cladding with wood has been known for a long time, but remains relevant to this day. Today we’ll figure out whether do-it-yourself clapboard wall cladding is so difficult, and whether it can be done without outside help.

What nuances should be considered when working with lining

Lining is a board of different thickness, which is made from different types of wood. This material got its name because of the place where it was first applied. These are wagons in trains, the inner walls of which were sheathed with small wooden slats. Today it is fashionable to sheathe the walls in the bath with clapboard, as well as in the sauna, or the gazebo.

It must be taken into account that the decoration of the walls with clapboard with one's own hands requires a thorough, balanced approach. Pay attention to the following details:

Packed boards should be stored on a substrate in a horizontal position.
The humidity of the storage room must be within the normal range.
Storage should not be allowed when direct sunlight is directed at the packages.
It is important to pay attention to the expiration dates indicated on the package.

The cost of 1 m2 of distillation from linden, which perfectly tolerates temperature changes and high humidity, costs 500 rubles, and in order to sheathe walls in the main rooms at the dacha, on average, you can meet a smaller amount - 300 rubles per m2. Important! The price of the material directly depends on the quality of the wood.

On a note! Lining for walls is bought with a margin, which is equal to ten percent of the total area. It must be remembered that the width of each element is measured by the internal depth, so you need to subtract 10-12 mm of the groove depth.

Lining material processing

After the purchase, the question becomes, how to sheathe the walls with clapboard on your own, so that the coating turns out to be wear-resistant and beautiful? The primary task is the correct pre-treatment, because the manufacturer does not carry out any manipulations with the tree. You need to do the following:

Needle products need degreasing. To do this, it is better to rinse the board with a 25% acetone solution. Then wipe with a cloth dampened with water and dry.

All, even the most minor, damage should be repaired with a putty mixture for wood. You can buy it at any hardware store.

If you need to change the shade, then you can use stain, or other professional impregnations that will preserve the beautiful texture of the wood.

What you need to prepare the walls for lining

There are two main options for how to make a wall clapboard: glue and frame. Note that the first one will require you to have a perfectly flat surface. That is why the second method is preferable, which involves the construction of a crate. Among the advantages of this method is the creation of additional space for warming the room.

In order to fix the lining on the wall, you need:

Instruments. In this particular case, you should prepare a drill with different nozzles, a plumb line (level), pliers, a hammer, a hand saw or a jigsaw.
Reiki for the construction of the frame. For these purposes, solid wooden beams with a cross section of 30 * 60 mm are suitable. At the same stage, the substrates used to level the surfaces are prepared.
Fastening materials: dowels, self-tapping screws, nails, kleimers, if necessary, then hangers for the frame.

Important! Even if the frame method of fastening is used, preliminary preparation of working surfaces is required. The procedure is simple, it consists in the fact that all decorative elements are removed from the wall, and the defects are overwritten. After that, an additional primer is carried out.

How to create a crate for lining fasteners

Preparing walls for lining is the most scrupulous process. You will have to tinker with creating a special design. General recommendations:

Treat the beam with refractory impregnation and antifungal agents.
Make sure that the slats are located strictly perpendicular to the decorative boards.

Between the rails, it is necessary to observe a single distance, the step of which is 40-50 cm.

It is necessary to leave a distance between the floor and the ceiling. This recommendation is especially relevant for wooden houses, which are constantly subject to shrinkage.
The evenness in the installation of the frame is subject to careful check, for this, plumb lines and a level are used.

If a space is formed between the rail and the wall, then it must be filled with prepared dies.

Important! The construction of the crate makes it possible to equip the walls with an additional insulating layer. The insulation is fixed between the formed racks.

Which fixation option to choose?

It is important to decide on the method of fixing plank materials. Sheathing a wall can be done in several ways:

Through view of fasteners. This is the simplest solution that does not require much effort. The point is that the screws are screwed directly through the front side. This method involves marking so that the fastener points are located on the same line. In addition, holes are drilled in advance on the wagon board, which will not allow the tree to deteriorate and crack. When screwing in screws, make sure that their heads are completely recessed into the wood. This is easy to achieve if you pre-drill a place under the hat with a large-caliber drill. Formed holes are masked with special eraser plugs or rubbed with putty. Of the shortcomings, this method significantly violates the external aesthetic appeal of the coating.

Fastening the lining to the wall can be carried out using decorative carnations. Their hats were originally decorated to match the color of the material.

A great option would be hidden carnations without hats. The peculiarity is that such nails can only be hammered at an angle of 80 degrees. This will make it possible to hide those areas that have been violated.
If you have a professional stapler on your farm, then staples can be used for fasteners.

Important! You should not buy a manual stapler, which is sold on every corner, as its use does not provide a secure fit.

With the smallest thickness of the wagon board, kleimers are used. The main advantage is that the mounts are invisible.

The method of how to fix the lining to the wall is selected individually, based on the specific situation. But we note that recently the most popular are the kleimers.

The process of fastening the lining

Before sheathing the walls, the material is brought into the room and left for two days. This manipulation is essential for the tree to fully acclimatize.

Important! If you rush and skip this stage, then there is a high probability that the structure will warp.

All work must be carried out at positive air temperatures, and the optimum humidity is at least 60%.

The essence of the technique:

Most often, laying is carried out in a horizontal position, so install the first bar at the bottom so that its pinch (groove) looks up.
As with wallpapering, fixing should start from a corner that is away from the entrance to the room.

Check the board carefully with a level, taking into account the horizontal and vertical surfaces.
The first board is fastened, and the rest are then grooved, and then fixed with clamps. be careful with the first and last elements, it is better to fix them with screws.

After finishing, you need to decorate the walls with skirting boards and corners, or you can paint the walls from the lining with stain or varnish the surface.

Experience guarantees completion of finishing work in a day, even including the installation of the frame. Natural materials will give the room comfort and warmth, last a long time, and retain beauty.

Video: Do-it-yourself lining installation

Various materials can be used for surface finishing. They are selected based on their characteristics, properties and, of course, cost.

One of the common options for cladding surfaces is lining. However, to use it, you need to understand how to attach the lining to the wall.

In this article, we will take a closer look at the installation methods, the advantages and disadvantages of each option.

Ways of fastening lining

Try to lay the bars evenly

Mounting the lining on the walls is best done with the help of a crate - a wooden frame. To do this, all the bars of the crate, both in the horizontal and in the vertical plane, must be set exactly.

Even minor mistakes can eventually lead to depressions and bulges that will be visible on the walls.

After the installation of the crate is completed, the lining is fixed. Below you can see the scheme of the crate for surface finishing.

Keep in mind that if lining is used for facing surfaces in a bath, the material must first be treated with antiseptics.

The installation of the lining will not depend on the method of fastening. For walls and ceilings, the work will be the same. There are two ways to place boards:

Vertical. With this method of placement, work starts from one of the nodes. The first board is fixed with a groove outward. The next bar is inserted into the previous one. Upon completion of fixing the board with the help of a level, the evenness of its placement is checked.
Horizontal. With this placement, the spike of the board is directed upwards, this allows water to roll down the finish. Such installation begins from the ceiling.

Do not fasten the lining close to the ceiling and floor, leave gaps

After all the boards are installed, a small section of the board is inserted into the groove of the finish panel, which is nailed with a hammer. This trick will allow you to tightly connect all the planks and prevent cracks or holes from appearing.

When installing the lining near the floor and ceiling, you need to leave a small hole of about 2 cm. This will protect against sudden temperature changes and provide additional ventilation. If this is not done, after a certain time, the boards may swell. After finishing, the cracks are covered with a plinth.

Regardless of the fastening method chosen, the first and last plank is fastened with small-headed nails.

The remaining panels can be attached in the following ways:

using screws, screws or nails;
clasps. This is the name of the clamps, which have a design with a special holder holding the spike of the board;
construction stapler.

You can choose any mounting method. But keep in mind that the board is first nailed to the middle beam of the crate and only then along the edges. Then the evenness of the placement is checked using a level, after which the board is attached to the remaining bars of the crate.

Fastening with nails

A standard size board will take 6-7 nails

This method is one of the simplest and cheapest, but it is not able to provide a long service life of the structure. When hammering, a nail can damage the panel, which will significantly reduce the strength of the fastener. To avoid this, you can use a doboynik or pre-make holes in the desired section of the panel.

For one board of standard sizes, you will need about 6-7 nails. Such fastening will affect the appearance of the finish, so cracks and other defects will remain at the place of driving. But in some situations, this method of fastening is the only possible solution.

For such work, galvanized nails with a length of about 6 mm are used. They are carefully driven into the groove of the board and hammered. The caps are hammered in with the help of a doboynik, this will allow you to easily install the next plank.

Fastening with self-tapping screws

Choose quality fasteners

This method is used for buildings where the appearance of the walls does not really matter. Often you can find the use of this method for building baths.

But high humidity and sudden changes in temperature can cause the fasteners to dry out, further deteriorating the appearance. This can be prevented by treating the finish with special antiseptics.

For prevention, it is better to process the boards every three months.

Self-tapping screws are sufficiently high-quality fasteners, so if you need a long service life of the finish, their use can be considered the best solution.

To carry out such fasteners in the boards, you will need to first make holes. Their diameter should be equal to half the thickness of the fastener.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the board with a screwdriver. They must enter as deep as possible. To hide the place of fastening, you can use a wooden pin or grind the surface.

Stapler fastening

How to fix the lining to the wall with a stapler? This procedure is quite easy and will not take you much time and effort. But at the same time, you will need the ability to use such a tool. For more information on how to fix the lining with a stapler, see this video:

The staples must be inserted at a 45° angle. If the insertion procedure was performed correctly, the subsequent bar insertion procedure will proceed without complications.

Fastening with clamps

It is convenient to use clamps for hidden fasteners

Clamps will allow you to provide hidden fasteners for almost any finish.

At the same time, the fixation will be strong and guarantee a long service life.

Installation of lining with the help of such devices will achieve the following advantages:

With the right choice of fastener size, you can install discreetly and guarantee its strength.
Clamps are made of high-carbon steel, which allows them to withstand high levels of moisture and sudden changes in temperature for a long time. This allows you to use this method of fastening in bath rooms.

Clamps with a tongue height of about 4 mm are purchased for mounting eurolining of a standard profile, and 6 mm for fastening a block house. To finish 1 m2 of surface, you will need about 20 clamps.

With this method of fixing, the plate is put on the spike of the first panel and attached to the crate with nails or self-tapping screws.

There are three holes for fixing, but only two can be used. It is better not to mount the lining on one nail, as it can be pulled out.

Screwing screws is best done with a screwdriver. This will greatly speed up and facilitate the process.

Horizontal lining installation

When boards are placed horizontally, installation can be done from the bottom of the wall. With this choice, you can clearly see how best to fix the finish. In the ceiling section, the final board is cut in width, which will significantly worsen the decorative component. In addition, with this method of installation, there will be holes between the boards, which will negatively affect the high levels of moisture in the bath or sauna. For more information on how to sheathe a house with clapboard horizontally, see this video:

Therefore, basically with horizontal placement, the boards begin to be fixed from the top of the wall. The first panel is installed with the groove down directly under the ceiling. The next element is fastened with the first comb into the groove of the previous one.

According to this scheme, the installation of all boards is carried out. The final plank is cut to width and inserted using a pry bar or nail puller. A small hole near the floor is hidden with a plinth.

As you can see, lining can be fastened in different ways. The choice depends only on your personal preferences and knowledge. The work is quite easy, so professional help is most likely not required.

Wooden lining is beautiful and environmentally friendly. Ceilings and walls are trimmed in a similar way in baths, saunas, country houses and city apartments. U, and one of the most significant is the ease of installation, if, of course, high-quality materials were used, so you should find in advance a responsible supplier of fasteners for lining and, of course, the lining itself. Today, clamps, nails and even staples are used to fasten the material. What type of fasteners for lining will be most appropriate in each case?

No. 1. Features of installing lining

Lining is recommended to be mounted on pre-installed frame. If the walls or ceiling have a perfectly flat surface, it is allowed to install the lining without building a frame, but the crate still helps to extend the life of the base surface and allows you to create an additional layer for laying in the space between the lining and the main surface.

The crate is fastened in increments of 50-60 cm, it is imperative to use a level to achieve a perfectly flat surface and compensate for the unevenness of the base ceiling or wall. The frame may be metal profile or timber. When it comes to wooden lining, it is better to stop the choice on a bar. It's all about the ability of wood to absorb and release moisture, changing in volume. Lining and timber will react in a similar way, but the metal does not change in volume, and with a rigid fixation of the profile to the surface, the lining can lead. Of course, this risk remains when using a wooden frame, but still to a lesser extent.

Heat-insulating material can be laid between the lathing bars, which is important not only for residential buildings, but especially for saunas.

You can mount the lining in one of the following ways:

The direction of the battens will be perpendicular to the direction of the lining, this goes without saying.

No. 2. Types of fasteners for lining

Traditional ways execute lining fasteners several:

Regardless of which type of fastening is chosen, it is recommended to mount the first and last board using nails with small heads - they are easy to drown in the lining body. They fasten the lining first to the middle bar, then to the two extreme ones, carefully controlling the verticality or horizontality. Then there is an attachment to the intermediate bars.

No. 3. Fastening lining with clamps

Kleimers allow you to install the lining, completely preserving its integrity. They represent metal plates with tongue and holes. The tongue is designed to hold the lining, and thanks to the holes, the kleimer is attached to the frame. Such simple, but at the same time ingenious, fasteners allow you to perform a hidden fixation of the lining - no fasteners will be visible from the outside. At the same time, the wood is protected from cracks that can appear when nails are driven into it, and the entire installation process is quite simple.

The main difference between all kleimers on the market is tongue height. The choice of this parameter depends on what type of lining will be mounted: for euro lining, the necessary brackets with a tongue 4 mm high, for block house lining - 6 mm. As for the material, the kleimers are made mainly of galvanized iron and steel. Consumption This fastener depends on many factors, but on average, about 20 kleimers are used per 1 m 2 of lining.

The sequence of work is as follows:

It is necessary to install the boards tightly to each other, leaving no visible gaps. The last board will likely need to be cut to fit the width. In baths and saunas, it is recommended to retreat 2-3 cm from the ceiling and floor so that the wood can easily expand.

Kleimers provide a detachable fastening, so in which case the lining can be easily dismantled and the coating can be assembled in a new place.

No. 4. Fastening lining with nails

With the help of fastening the lining is the easiest and fastest way, because there is no need to use any intermediate fasteners, but there is a risk of splitting the board, so you should be prepared for a certain amount of marriage. For fastening, nails 5-6 cm long are used, they are in increments of 25-30 cm, so a lot of fastening material will be needed.

Usually nails driven into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees. To reduce the likelihood of damage to the lining, the nail is carefully placed in the right place with a hammer, and then hammered with a blunt hammer. An alternative is to pre-drill the holes. During installation, the nail head must be properly sunk into the tree so that the next element of the lining can be freely inserted into the groove.

It is allowed to drive a nail at a right angle into the tongue.

No. 5. Fastening the lining with a stapler

This is a variation on the theme of the previous method: instead of carnations and a finisher, a construction stapler is used here, which has enough power to drive the bracket into the lining. This device greatly facilitates the work, but requires some skill, so it's better to practice first. If everything is done correctly, then the bracket will fit tightly into the wood, without interfering with the installation of the next lining element. The stapler can also be used when fastening with clamps.

No. 6. Through fastening of lining with self-tapping screws

Through fastening is usually used for mounting the last lining boards. In this way, lining is also fastened in steam rooms and saunas. In this case, the fastener does not enter the spike, but passes through the entire lining. This is a fairly reliable and durable installation method, but if we are talking about using it in a bath, then the wood must be covered and do not forget to renew it every three months.

Holes are made in the boards first, and then fasteners are screwed in with the help, which should go as deep as possible. To cover the resulting hole, wooden pins are used, however, over time, all attachment points can become noticeable, no matter how carefully and regularly protective agents are applied.

This method has one interesting variation. Some experts drive nails into the crate, but not to the full length, so that they can be planted on them in the future. The length of the protruding elements should be less than the thickness of the lining. Nail heads are bitten off, and lining panels are carefully stuffed onto protruding nails with a mallet. The result is an aesthetic surface.

Over the years of working with lining, experts have accumulated decent experience and are ready to share advice:

The process of fastening the lining cannot be called too difficult, but it still requires accuracy, attentiveness and certain skills, so if you are not completely confident in your abilities, it is better to immediately call professionals for help and not spoil the material.