Do-it-yourself paths from old bricks. Do-it-yourself brick paths How to lay a path out of broken brick

A considerable part of the appearance of the courtyard in a country house is made by a path that connects all the buildings with the entrance and with each other. Most often it is a brick path. It is unlikely that anyone likes to walk through the mud, soiling clean shoes. To avoid such troubles, the paths in the yard should be paved. Laying the tracks yourself is a simple task, if you know the nuances and how to do it correctly. It is necessary to responsibly approach the preparation and installation - the main stages of work. Do-it-yourself brick paths are made after a pre-thought-out scheme for laying and selecting materials.

Training

In order for the laying of brick paths to proceed properly, you should make sure that you have the necessary tools:

Shovels:
- shovel;
- bayonet.
Rammer:
- manual;
- gasoline.
Saw.
Measuring tool:
- roulette.
Pegs and thread.
Building level.

To facilitate the work, you can take a grinder instead of a saw, and a gasoline one instead of a manual rammer. Masonry pavement is easier to lay with automatic tools. The paths need to be level, so it's best to make sure the building level is correctly calibrated and shows correctly.

Brick walkway layout

Bricks are laid on a layer of compacted soil and bricks.

According to the laying rules, the first layer consists of compacted soil. The thickness of the compacted pillow should be at least 3 centimeters. A leveling layer of sand (about 2 cm) is applied over the compacted pillow. A curb lock should be installed on the leveling layer, which will be held by a layer of crushed stone (15-20 centimeters). To lay a broken brick path, a thicker layer of stone will be required. After that, another layer of sand is poured over the rubble, after which bricklaying and curbing are already installed.

What materials are needed?

In order for a brick path to be laid out in a summer cottage, first of all, you need a brick. Further, to mix the cement mortar, sifted sand and a dry cement mixture will be required. To lay one of the underlying pillows, you will need gravel or crushed stone (there is not much difference), less brick chips are used. Optionally, additional geotextiles are used.

What materials are used?

The materials used determine the budget.
For laying crushed stone of average fraction can be used.
To lay out garden paths in the country, use any kind of brick. Sand-lime brick paths are quite popular, as this is one of the most profitable ways to make a path. Often it turns out to lay out a path from the old brick left after construction work. Cement is recommended to use cement brand "PC 400". Crushed stone or gravel is chosen in the middle fraction; brick crumbs can also be used. If it is decided to use geotextiles, then it is better to take a special one for paving slabs.

Stages of work

Track marking
First determine the location and size of the future track. To do this, you need a tape measure and pegs with a rope. The path is planned further than 5 meters from the nearest tree, as the root system of trees can gradually destroy the structure. Do not neglect the width either: 2 adults should freely diverge on the track without leaving the surface. When marking, make sure that the rope between the pegs does not sag, otherwise the brick will lie crooked.

Foundation preparation
Before starting laying, they dig a trench. In depth, it should be more than 25-30 centimeters. Soil should not be thrown away, it will still come in handy. After the trench is dug, it is covered with sand and rammed, and geotextiles are laid on top. Do not neglect the use of geotextiles - this canvas will help maintain the integrity of the sidewalk and increase its durability. The thickness of the rammed pillow should exceed 3 centimeters.

The next layer is filled with sand.
Next, a leveling layer of sand follows, the thickness of which should not be less than 2 centimeters. After this layer is laid, a curb lock is installed on it. Parallel to the castle, the path is covered with rubble, after which it is tightly tamped. The thickness of the layer should be more than 25-30 centimeters. Crushed stone should not have sharp edges that can damage the geotextile, due to which it will lose its properties.

The arrangement of the local area consists of several stages, one of which is the formation of a pedestrian zone. Be careful with this work, especially at the design stage. Proper organization in this case is the key to an attractive site design. But one cannot fail to note the importance of convenience during walks, so all corners of the territory should be available for viewing from the path.

Brick is not only the most popular material for the construction of buildings, but it is also widely used for paving the pedestrian zone. This pattern is easily explained by a number of advantages when this material is preferred:

How to make a path out of bricks?

Like any other process, paving a brick garden path includes several steps:

What to consider when designing?

What materials and tools to prepare for decorating a brick path?

When preparing inventory and additional supplies, refer to the following list:

What type of brick to choose for arranging the track?

To design a brick walkway with your own hands, select one of the following types of this material:

What brick size to choose?

When choosing a brick size, be guided by the following criteria:

Determine the most appropriate type according to this principle:

Video

Watch a video review of some types of clinker bricks suitable for decorating a garden path.

How to prepare the soil for a paved path?

Preparatory work makes up the bulk of the total volume.

Important! Consider, the better you prepare the soil, the more convenient and faster it will be possible to lay the brick itself.

Sequencing:

How to lay brick?

This main stage of decorating the territory of the pedestrian zone is not particularly difficult, but some rules still exist. Read them carefully and follow them exactly to get an attractive coating quickly.

Progress:

Conclusion

As you have already seen, the whole process of creating a brick garden path is so easy that it is available for even those who do not have any skills in construction. If you follow all the simple rules for decorating a landscaped pedestrian zone with bricks, the result will certainly please you. Beautiful and reliable garden paths for a long time will contribute to the most comfortable rest and walks on your own site.

Training

In order for the laying of brick paths to proceed properly, you should make sure that you have the necessary tools:

Shovels:
- shovel;
- bayonet.
Rammer:
- manual;
- gasoline.
Saw.
Measuring tool:
- roulette.
Pegs and thread.
Building level.

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Brick walkway layout

Bricks are laid on a layer of compacted soil and bricks.

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What materials are needed?

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What materials are used?

The materials used determine the budget.

For laying crushed stone of average fraction can be used.

To lay out garden paths in the country, use any kind of brick. Sand-lime brick paths are quite popular, as this is one of the most profitable ways to make a path. Often it turns out to lay out a path from the old brick left after construction work. Cement is recommended to use cement brand "PC 400". Crushed stone or gravel is chosen in the middle fraction; brick crumbs can also be used. If it is decided to use geotextiles, then it is better to take a special one for paving slabs.

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Stages of work

Track marking

First determine the location and size of the future track. To do this, you need a tape measure and pegs with a rope. The path is planned further than 5 meters from the nearest tree, as the root system of trees can gradually destroy the structure. Do not neglect the width either: 2 adults should freely diverge on the track without leaving the surface. When marking, make sure that the rope between the pegs does not sag, otherwise the brick will lie crooked.

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Foundation preparation

Before starting laying, they dig a trench. In depth, it should be more than 25-30 centimeters. Soil should not be thrown away, it will still come in handy. After the trench is dug, it is covered with sand and rammed, and geotextiles are laid on top. Do not neglect the use of geotextiles - this canvas will help maintain the integrity of the sidewalk and increase its durability. The thickness of the rammed pillow should exceed 3 centimeters.

The next layer is filled with sand.

Next, a leveling layer of sand follows, the thickness of which should not be less than 2 centimeters. After this layer is laid, a curb lock is installed on it. Parallel to the castle, the path is covered with rubble, after which it is tightly tamped. The thickness of the layer should be more than 25-30 centimeters. Crushed stone should not have sharp edges that can damage the geotextile, due to which it will lose its properties.

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How to lay a brick?

Paving is carried out on a sand cushion, tamping tightly, but we must not forget to ensure that the masonry is even, using a level. There are several types of brick laying:

Chaotic placement of bricks in a happy order, not paying attention to detail.
Offset placement. Its essence boils down to the fact that the joints are placed apart. Red brick paths look more pleasant.
Herringbone - the formation of a pattern resembling a herringbone. Under this pattern, paving stones or paving slabs are used, but with effort, it can also be made of brick.
Network. A pattern resembling weaving is created. Looks good in the garden.
Chess. For this type, bricks of two colors are used, and they are laid out in a checkerboard pattern. It is better to build using white bricks.

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Laying curbs

Instead of a curb, they use bricks placed edgewise. There are also specially made curbs made of reinforced concrete or plastic. The border is guided with the help of fittings or special rings and hammered with a mallet. In the absence of a mallet, you can use a hammer by placing a bar under it. To enhance strength, the base of the curb is covered with cement mortar.

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What will our track consist of, what layers should be in it

As you can see from the first picture, the sidewalk will be sunk into the ground, there will be a layer of gravel or gravel, then sand will come and a brick will be placed on top. About everything in order.

Dig a trench

Determine the desired width of your walkway and add 5 cm. Roughly determine the location of the walkway with rope, hose or paint. Using a shovel between markings, remove the top layer of soil. Dig until you see a change in soil color (as shown). Fold the top layer of soil on a tarp so that it does not pollute the area.

Fill the trench with crushed stone, gravel

Fill with 2.5-5 cm of crushed stone or gravel (as shown in the picture). Water the gravel to wash off the dust.

Pack and refill

Tamp the layer, pouring water, then pour gravel or gravel 2.5-5 cm again, tamp. You should end up with a 10cm layer of gravel.

Add a layer of sand

Now you need to install the side guides and fill in a layer of sand. Make the same outstanding tool as in the figure and level the sand with it.

Lay brick edging

Lay the brick on edge in the trench. Drive in the bricks with a special hammer so that the surface of the bricks is level with the top of the guide (as shown in the figure). For accuracy, check the surface with a level. Lay the edging along the guides.

Fill the space with bricks

Start laying bricks. Varieties of laying bricks on the sidewalk, a large number. We offer this option. Lay should be, checking the level of the surface of the masonry. And leave small holes for sand.

Seam filling

Use a shovel to spread a thin layer of sand over the brick. Using a large broom, notice the sand in the seams between the bricks (as shown). Then you need to pour water on the surface of the bricks so that the sand is compacted. Then repeat the filling of sand between the bricks.

Let it all stand for one week and, if anything, add sand to the seams as needed. After another week, remove all inserts and guides.

If you did everything according to our instructions, you should get something like this brick path.

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Brief job description

For paving, a special brick is produced - clinker, which comes in different thicknesses, as a rule, thinner than usual, as well as different shapes and sizes. Similar results can be achieved when paving paths with concrete blocks specially designed for this purpose with the dimensions of standard bricks.

In warm areas, the brick can be laid directly on solid ground, however, to increase the durability of the track, it is better to lay the brick on a layer of sand and check the levelness with a level. And even in this case, every few years you have to dismantle the path and lay the brick again.

A more reliable way to lay bricks without mortar is to tamper with a rented vibrator. (described below) which allows you to get a paved driveway surface that can withstand even the weight of cars. Flat vibrators can only compact bricks with a thickness of more than 50 mm, and such paths or platforms must have borders of bricks laid on concrete (item 2 below). If the surface is paved by hand, then the curb can be made of bricks placed directly into the ground.

A durable surface can be obtained by laying mortar bricks on a concrete slab. The base may be old, such as an existing walkway or platform, or new, arranged in accordance with the rules for laying lightweight concrete slabs. In both cases, it is better to do this work in two stages: first, laying the bricks on the mortar, then, after the mortar layer has hardened, filling the joints with a thick mortar.

Do-it-yourself cement mortar

Four solution recipes

Lime-cement mortar		Plasticized mortar
Normal solution	Volumetric ratio	Volumetric ratio	Mortar output per 50 kg of cement
Normal solution	1 part cement 1 part slaked lime 6 parts sand	1 part cement 5-6 parts sand with plasticizer
Lasting solution	1 part cement 0.5 part slaked lime 4-4.5 parts of sand	1 part cement 3-4 parts sand with plasticizer

Solution preparation

Pour the required amount of sand into the wheelbarrow (or other container), add lime or plasticizer. With a shovel, make a small indentation, add cement to it and mix until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Make a well again, add water and stir until all lumps disappear.

Approximately half a liter of water is needed per kilogram of cement. Add water gradually until a solution with the consistency of warm oil is obtained. To check the viscosity, make a curved furrow in the solution. If its edges do not blur and the solution slides freely off the shovel, then it is ready. If the furrow blurs, the solution is too wet - add some dry materials. If the solution does not slide off the shovel, it is too dry - add water little by little.

Types of borders

straight line

The simplest of the borders is a straight line of bricks placed vertically with a wide edge to the surface of the masonry. If you lay the bricks with a narrow edge towards the surface, they will look more contrasting with the bricks that pave the site. However, this requires twice as many bricks.

smooth curve

Sector-shaped bricks can be purchased for the curve device, but they are expensive. A smooth curve can also be obtained from ordinary brick by laying it as shown in the figure and filling the seams with a strong mortar made according to one of the recipes above.

sawtooth curb

A row of bricks laid on edge at a 45-degree slope creates an optical illusion where the curb appears to be made up of a row of triangular bricks. To increase this illusion, remove the soil a little less depth so that the curb is above the ground level.

Attention: when laying such a row, the lower ends of the bricks must be firmly held in concrete, and the upper ends are set strictly at the same level.

wooden border

Formwork for laying concrete fits perfectly into the construction of a brick-paved site. Install it just below ground level so that the boards and stakes are not visible.

Pavement paving without mortar

1. Test laying

Measure and mark out the site as you would for a concrete slab, then calculate the required amount of bricks for paving without mortar . To estimate the final dimensions so that the soil can be removed, lay out a row of bricks along the border of the site and inside. When marking out the site, allow a gap of 100 mm beyond the outer boundaries. If you decide to pave with a simple pattern, for example, a rectangular one without dressing, you can save time by laying out only the borders, and leave the middle empty. But the side rows should be laid out completely.

2. Excavation

Remove the brick you laid out for testing and remove the soil layer 50mm deeper than the thickness of the brick. The depth is assumed to be the same everywhere, regardless of the terrain, and the walls of the recess should be as vertical as possible. Then, with a trowel, dig a trench along the borders of the paving area so that it is 100 mm wider than the bricks and deep enough to lay a layer of concrete 100 mm thick, on which the frieze bricks are laid, the upper edges of which should be flush with the rest of the bricks. Lay a 100 mm thick general purpose concrete layer in the trench and lay out a row of frieze (boundary) bricks while the concrete is ductile. They should form an even vertical wall around the site. Install a board to support the bricks on the site side and fill the trench at the outer edge two-thirds with concrete. Lay sod or soil on top and leave for three days to mature.

3. Sand cushion device

Pack the base soil, place a pad of sharp-grained sand (which is used to make concrete) and level the sand. The level of sand relative to the curb should be such that the bricks laid on it are 10 mm higher than the curb before laying them with a vibrator. If you are going to lay the brick by hand, then after laying on the sand it should be flush with the curb. When laying the site, place two parallel bars on the ground and level the sand with the help of a rule board. To level a sandy walkway base, use the Concrete Path Base Leveling Method. .

4. Laying bricks

Lay the first two bricks in the corner of the site. After that, pull the cord for even laying of the entire row. Continue laying the next rows of bricks until you reach the edge of the site - there should be a gap of 10 mm between the last row and the curb.

If tamping with a vibrator is not provided, check the level of the horizontal laying of each brick. Knock down bricks with a mallet and, if necessary, add or remove sand. Then, if there is no vibrator, go to the instructions to complete the job. (below, after 5 and 6 points).

5. Working with a vibrator

Rent a gasoline-powered flat vibrator and walk around the site two or three times to place the bricks firmly in the sand. They will drop approximately 10 mm and the surface of the site will be flush with the curb. Do not walk on bricks before ramming with a vibrator.

6. Filling the joints with sand

Sprinkle the area with a thin layer of sand and make two more passes with the vibrator to fill the seams. Work with a helper, whom you ask to put sand under the vibrator, as when tamping sand moves out from under the vibrator forward.

Completing the site paving when working without a vibrator

Filling the seams with sand

After laying and leveling all the bricks, scatter a bucket of sand with acute-angled grains on the site. Use your hand or a brush to fill the joints between the bricks with sand. (below left). After filling all the seams, carefully sweep away the remaining sand by moving the brush diagonally. (lower right) so as not to sweep the sand out of the joints. It may be necessary to fill the joints with sand twice after the sand has shrunk.

Mortar paving

1. Arranging a curb around an existing concrete slab

When bricking an existing slab, check its condition and levelness. If you want to make a new concrete pad, make it with general purpose concrete without formwork, as described above. If the site is at ground level, there is no need to make a curb, but if its level is above ground level, you need to hide it with a beta and protect the bricks of the extreme rows from moisture and wear.

Make a groove along the perimeter of the slab approximately two brick thicknesses wide and deep enough so that the brick placed on the end is flush with the surface of the finished site. (When calculating, add 10 mm mortar layer thickness to the brick thickness.) Rinse the curb bricks thoroughly and set them in the groove with a 10 mm gap (use your index finger or a piece of wood of the appropriate thickness to set the gap). Press the curb bricks against the concrete slab by filling the groove with concrete and compacting it. At the same time, check the height of the bricks above the concrete platform with a level and a ruler; it, as already mentioned, should be equal to the thickness of the brick plus a layer of mortar 10 mm thick.

2. Preparation for laying bricks

Lay the bricks dry to check the width and length of the site, leaving gaps between them of 10 mm. If necessary, you can slightly reduce or increase the gap in order to fit an integer number of bricks in each row. When laying on the mortar, you can leave one of the test rows for the sample.

Prepare a strong solution (according to one of the recipes above) in batches of 0.02 cu. m for laying 2 sq. m of brick with a mortar layer thickness of 10 mm. If the total paving area is less than 4 sq. m, you can prepare a solution for the whole job at once. In other cases, cook no more than 0.02 cubic meters. m. This amount is enough for you for about an hour of work, after which the solution will begin to set. Level the mortar and make grooves in it with a notched trowel or the end of a trowel.

3. Brick laying

Wet the bricks and lay them along the cord on the mortar with a smooth surface upwards. Lay a full row and only after that start laying the next one. Press the brick into the mortar with your hand and slightly upset it with the handle of the trowel. Level check the horizontal position when laying each brick.

4. Filling the joints with mortar

A day later, and preferably two or three days after laying the bricks on the mortar, prepare a hard mortar to fill the gaps between the bricks. The mortar must be drier than the mortar normally used for masonry. Mix 1 part cement with 3 parts sand and add just a little water. A ball of such a solution should break easily.

Wet the bricks and fill the gaps between the bricks with hard mortar. For work, you can use cutting or jointing, which you need to tightly push the solution. Fill the joints with mortar so that they are slightly overfilled. Use a trowel to remove excess mortar, being careful not to leave it on the surface. Expand the seams, deepening them by 1-2 mm, so that rainwater can drain through the resulting grooves. For deepening, you can use a stiff brush. Wipe off all traces of mortar with a damp sponge and spray the area with a spray hose. Leave to soak for a day or two.

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What to make tracks

The pavement can be solid or loose. To create a hard coating, the following materials are used:

Concrete. Concrete walkways are not just ordinary gray tape. In addition, there are dyes and you can decorate it if you wish. There are also molds for pouring immediately on the spot. It turns out homemade paving slabs. Another option is to pour small concrete slabs of the right size on your own, then put them on the bedding. See photos for design examples.
Flagstone. This is a natural stone that has been sawn into plates. It is laid on a prepared base (more on this later), the gaps are filled with backfill. It turns out beautifully, reliably, non-slip. No wonder landscape designers love flagstone stone paths so much.
Brick. Ordinary ceramic brick is a beautiful material, but not for paths. It absorbs moisture, if then it freezes wet, it is torn apart. If you are going to make a path out of broken bricks, then you can walk along it more or less normally only for a couple of years. Then you have to redo it. The resulting cracks will need to be covered with coarse sand or fine gravel. A clinker brick will serve much longer on the track, but this option cannot be called low-cost: the cost of one piece is from several tens of rubles.
Wood. Such a seemingly unsuitable material, but with proper processing, it can last a long time. Moreover, many do-it-yourself wood tracks can be classified as low-cost. For example, they came up with the idea of using stumps and saw cuts of trees as borders or coverings. They also make flooring from well-finished boards - terraced is better, but if not, it will also work from the old floor.
Plastic. There are tiles for garden paths made of plastic - polyethylene or polypropylene. It has a square shape and a system of locks, which is attached to one another. It can be laid directly on top of the lawn or previously trodden in the country or on the paths. This option is fast and cheap. It can definitely be called "With little cost." It is better, of course, to make a filling of crushed stone and sand according to the rules, and lay plastic elements on top. It's a little longer and more expensive. There is also an immodest, but very beautiful version of plastic tiles for paths. There is also a "garden parquet". These are slabs or boards made of wood-polymer composite - WPC (they are in the photo, they look exactly like parquet). This material appeared relatively recently. It looks and feels like wood, but in fact it is a mixture of wood flour and polymer. These are very beautiful coatings, but their cost is by no means modest. Although not fabulous.
Pebble. These are rounded natural stones that can be found on the banks of rivers or lakes. Flatter pebbles are more suitable for making tracks. There are different shades of gray, black, white, sometimes you can find burgundy. From these stones, laid close to each other, mosaic paths of amazing beauty are obtained. But this is an occupation for the assiduous and stubborn. Those who lack patience can find large flat boulders or large pebbles and lay them in the sand. It's not as luxurious, but no less reliable. You can also do with granite or other similar stones. It is important that at least one face is relatively flat. You put this flat part up, and bury the rest. The work is not easy, but it will be possible not only to walk along the path, but also to ride.
Handy materials. Country paths are made from old tires and bottles.

There are also paved paths: these are gravel or crushed stone. Their peculiarity is that with a small layer of 2-3 cm and with sufficient compaction, it is convenient to walk on them. If the layer is slightly larger, unevenness is formed when walking, and such walking is tiring. Therefore, as you have seen in many photographs, gravel and crushed stone are used as backfill, in which rigid elements from other materials are laid. When done correctly, this is convenient: gravel conducts water well and puddles do not form. Those who do not like the gray color can be advised to paint it: many designers do this when organizing rockeries.

Read about the secrets of site planning here.

How to make garden paths with your own hands

It is not enough to know what you can make garden paths with your own hands. You also need to know how to make them correctly so that it serves more than one season or two. The laying of different materials may vary slightly, but there are several rules and actions that are repeated in any technology.

First rule: when laying or forming a track cover, it is made with a slight slope. If the material allows, a slope of several centimeters is made on both sides of the center. If, for example, a concrete path is poured, then the slope is formed in one direction - from the house, if it is nearby. The slope is made towards the lower part of the site if the path is located on a slope.

Second rule: under any covering preparation of the basis is required. If you lay stones (for example) directly in clay or loam, it will certainly be useful - it will definitely be more convenient to walk, but after some time the stones will “silt up”. Simply trample into the clay. With a backfill, this will take much more time. And if you make another drainage cushion and a side, water drainage will be even more efficient, and everything will look even more beautiful.

Third rule: the level of coverage of the track should be a couple of centimeters higher than the adjacent area. Then the water will quickly drain, it will be more convenient to clean, and cleaning will be required less often: the washed-out earth will not flow either during rains or during watering the flower beds, which are often done along the paths.

Read about how to make beautiful beds here.

Step-by-step instruction

When making garden paths with your own hands, start with markings. In theory, the dimensions and shape should be marked on the site plan, and the markup should take place according to the project. But more often than not, everything is done on the spot. To see the future path more clearly, its contours can first be covered with white sand or something similar. If the shape suits you, you can drive in the pegs and pull the twine between them, but you can also work on backfilling.

Sod is removed between two marks. The depth of the ditch should be about 15-25 cm.
A border is dug along the edge, if provided.
The bottom of the ditch is leveled, removing roots, stones, eliminating significant pits or mounds. The bottom is rammed (rammer in the photo below).
Pour a layer of crushed stone of large or medium fraction. To save the budget, you can fill up broken bricks, other large construction debris. If there is a vibrating plate - great, if not, take something similar to the tool in the photo (you can make it from a large log, to which you nail a handle across the cut). With this tool you level the bottom. If you filled up the garbage, you need to sprinkle a little rubble on top and compact it again.
Lay a layer of geotextile on top. Its edges rise flush with the sides or even slightly higher. This layer should not be skipped. It does not allow sand to mix, which is usually poured on top of rubble, prevents the roots of plants from germinating, which destroy the path. A very useful thing.
Sand is poured onto the geotextile. Its layer should be such that the laid coating is slightly higher than the general level on the site. Sand is first spread with a shovel, then, evenly distributing, leveled with a rake. Then they ram and level. To level the sand level, you can use a rule (a construction tool that is often used when pouring a concrete floor) or simply take a large ruler, a building level, a flat rail. Sometimes you have to pour, ram, level several times. It is desirable to achieve a perfect surface.
Stone, pebbles, flagstone, paving stones, bricks, etc. are laid in the sand. They are put in the right place, then they knock with a rubber mallet: they drive them deep into the sand.

Along a beautiful path, you can place a flower garden or flower bed. How to do them, read here.

Beautiful do-it-yourself pebble path

If with flagstone, paving stones, brick, everything is more or less clear - everyone has already seen more than once how this is done, then it is not clear how to lay pebbles in patterns.

Below is a photo report on the process of making a pebble track. The main techniques are visible on it: lines are applied to the leveled sand, along which pebbles will be laid out. If these are arcs, they are made with a thread and two sticks / nails.

Picking up stones, they are laid out on the edge close to each other, slightly sunk into the sand.

A board is laid on a folded pattern, a rubber mallet is taken and they knock on the board, hammering the pebbles into the sand. So the whole drawing is deepened, making sure that the edges of the pebbles are at the same height.

They take a mixture of sand and cement (sand 2 parts, cement 1 part) and fill in the gaps, leveling the layer with a brush.

A fragment of a pebble path is carefully poured with water so that the backfill does not blur. Wait a few hours until the cement sets a little, then remove the excess with a soft brush.

It is important not to miss the moment: the mortar should not get dirty, but also become a stone. If you pick it with your finger, it should crumble. It's time to clean up the excess.

Read about how to grow a green hedge in the article "Fence hedge: how to grow and form"

Path of wooden stumps and gravel: video

Old logs or trees can be turned into a beautiful walkway. They are sawn into logs of the required length, the front saw cut is polished, all wood is first treated with a bioprotection composition (it can be soaked with used oil). After drying, they are dipped in Kuzbass varnish and dried again. Then the front parts of the stumps are covered with paint of the desired color - which will protrude outward. Once again dried and only then put in the sand.

The process is detailed in the video. Here it is explained step by step how to make garden paths from stumps or logs with your own hands.

Making your own concrete driveway

The process is generally similar to the one described at the beginning. There are some differences that we'll talk about.

After the trench is dug and the bottom is leveled, formwork is installed along it on both sides. These are boards from 25 mm thick (thicker is possible, thinner is undesirable, you can use plywood 16-18 mm thick, chipboard). Their height is the height of the track. If you are molding a slope, the boards should be set taking it into account - one side is slightly higher, the other is slightly lower.

To make formwork, pegs are driven into the ground in increments of no more than 60 cm. Boards are nailed to them. It is better to smear the inner surface of the formwork with working off or other oil: so that it can be easily removed. Further, crushed stone is poured onto the bottom and rammed. But it is necessary to ram carefully: if you walk along the bottom, no traces should be visible.

Further, in order for the path not to crack, a metal reinforcing mesh is laid on the rubble. The thickness of the bar is 4-6 mm, the step is 5-10 cm. It is sold in pieces, they must be connected to each other with steel wire.

Then, to compensate for the expansion in the winter, you need to put wooden planks 1.5-2 cm thick. They are placed across the path, set so that the height of the planks is flush with the formwork boards. Compensation strips are set at least every 2 meters. More often you can, less often you can't. Why do it more often? For beauty. Squares look better than long rectangles.

A concrete mortar of a grade not lower than M-250 is poured into the finished frame (read about grades of concrete and its preparation here). For him, take 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 4 - crushed stone. Everything is mixed into a solution of medium fluidity (thick sour cream) and poured into the formwork. When pouring, make sure that there are no air bubbles left. To remove them, the solution is pierced with a pin, slightly shaking it - bayonet. Ideally, if there is a surface vibator for concrete - it quickly compacts the solution, creating a perfectly flat surface. If it is not there, you will have to level with the rule, using the edges of the formwork as beacons.

A few hours later, after the concrete has set, the surface can be treated. You can leave it as it is, you can brush it with a stiff brush, making transverse strips, you can finally put pebbles, stones, flagstone, etc. into a not completely hardened solution. It's not very economical, but reliable. After a couple of days, the formwork can be removed, and you can already walk along the path.

About what fences are and how to make them is written here.

This issue can be easily solved using such a common material as brick. As a pavement, it is attractive in that you can make brick paths with your own hands and at the same time use those leftovers that were not previously used up during construction.

Advantages, disadvantages and types used

The main advantages of using bricks for paving walkways are ease of installation, accessibility and the ability to use leftovers after building a house, including broken fragments.

However, the pavement surface covered with outdoor wall material is not durable. After two or three years, under the influence of moisture and frost, an ordinary brick can collapse. To avoid this, we can recommend:

treat stones or waterproof varnish;
use a special clinker brick;
buy imitating paving slabs.

Treatment of ordinary clay bricks with a hydrophobic composition must be carried out at least twice with its complete immersion in liquid. This will ensure the resistance of the brick to moisture and increase its frost resistance.

At the same time, it should be taken into account that the validity period of the water repellent is no more than five years. After this, the surface of the track must be processed again. The service life of the lacquer coating is determined by the intensity of operation of the brick track.

Scheme of a brick path.

Clinker bricks are practically impervious to moisture and therefore almost do not collapse over time. It is more expensive than usual, but the garden path from it will be durable and more beautiful.

A do-it-yourself brick path can be laid out in the form of:

longitudinal pattern with classic spoon dressing;
alternation of vertical and horizontal rows;
"Christmas trees" at an angle of 45 ° or 90 °;
single or double braid.

There are more complex patterns, but for do-it-yourself styling, it is recommended to use these.

Paving methods.

Required materials and tools

In addition to bricks, for the construction of the track you will need sand, crushed stone of the middle fraction, PC400 cement and non-woven waterproofing material.

Tool for work:

bayonet and shovel;
manual rammer or tamping machine;
container for mixing the mortar and preparing the cement-sand mixture;
measuring tape 5-10 m;
cord for marking;
pegs;
rubber and regular hammer;
construction worker.

For laying a broken brick path, you may need an angle grinder (grinder) with a diamond wheel to process uneven edges.

markup

Marking and excavation.

Use pegs, cord and tape measure to mark future tracks and sites. They must be at least two meters away from the trees, as growing roots can lead to the destruction of the base. The garden path should be wide enough for two people to pass without leaving the pavement.

The cord on the pegs should not sag much. To do this, make the distance between them no more than 5 meters. Turns are recommended to be made smooth so that a wheelbarrow or trolley can turn on them. In places of turns, increase the number of pegs.

Substrate preparation and curb installation

Geotextile laying.

To equip the foundation of a brick garden path, it is necessary to remove 20-25 cm of surface soil in accordance with the markings. Sprinkle the bottom of the resulting trench with a layer of sand 2-3 cm thick and compact well. After that, lay out the geotextile along the entire width and length of the track. This will effectively remove moisture down, preventing it from entering the base. In addition, the non-woven fabric will prevent the growth of weeds through the base and brick coating.

On top of the geotextile, pour a layer of sand 2-3 cm thick, and 10 cm of crushed stone on it and tamp it well. Sand is necessary so that the sharp edges of the stones do not tear the canvas. The crushed stone layer will act as a drainage to remove incoming moisture and prevent the base of the track from being washed away.

Option using a sand base.

The drainage layer must be sprinkled with sand, hiding the rubble and putting another layer of geotextile on it. Install a curb along the edges of the path, which can be concrete, or made of brick laid on the edge. Fastening the curb material is done by hand using cement mortar or steel reinforcement stakes hammered into the ground.

Next, pour sand or a dry cement-sand mixture onto the geotextile. The surface is well compacted and leveled with a plaster rule or a flat wooden block, taking into account the provision of water runoff from the surface after laying. Dry cement-sand mixture provides increased strength and stability of the coating. With light loads on the pavement, you can use the basis of their pure river sand.

brick laying

The paving of the garden path is made in accordance with a pre-selected pattern.

Stones are placed on a sandy or cement-sand surface, tapping them a little with a rubber mallet to land in place.

The sagging elements must be removed and a little sand or mixture should be poured under them. Slopes for water drainage are checked with a building level, and a flat surface with a plaster rule or a wooden block. If a block is used, alignment can be done by lightly tapping on it.

After laying the brick, a little dry cement-sand mixture is poured onto its surface, and then it is brushed to fill the joints and the surface is spilled with water.

After 2-3 days, after the cement in the joints has set, this procedure must be repeated.

Finally

A brick garden path is an affordable solution for do-it-yourself landscaping. However, an ordinary wall brick requires pre-treatment with hydrophobic materials that will protect it from the damaging effects of moisture and frost. If you use clinker bricks, then pre-treatment of the material is not required.

It is very important to correctly make the base of the track - with the device of the drainage layer and the laying of geotextiles. In addition, all layers of the base must be well compacted so that in the future, during operation, subsidence and surface destruction do not form.

An old brick cottage will always come in handy. Running a private economy is a rather complex and responsible process aimed at the constant care of buildings and maintaining their appearance. However, such work has many advantages, consisting in the ability to equip the site based on personal preferences and your own wishes. For the implementation of similar projects, a variety of materials and available tools can be used. Old brick is one of those products that are almost always available and can be reused for the construction of various objects.

The old brick left after dismantling the stove or the walls of the house can be useful for ennobling the summer cottage.

Using old bricks: building a garden path with your own hands

To create a garden path, you can get by with recycled material, which is almost always available in a summer cottage. Demolishing an old barn, building an outbuilding, or renovating a house inevitably leaves behind a lot of surplus that can be useful for building garden paths.

The main material of such structures are the remains of bricks. Also, the garden path may include other waste materials left after construction work or dismantling of an object. It is not difficult to create this system with your own hands, and the result of the work will be an excellent coating that can not only ensure the practicality of moving around the site, but become its decoration.

How to lay out a brick path? The procedure for creating such an object is time-consuming and responsible, containing many nuances. However, with knowledge of the matter and skillful handling of the tool, creating a path in the country will take a little time. Brick pavement is made in the following steps:

drawing up a construction plan;
site marking;
tool collection;
ground preparation;
border formation;
brick laying;
finishing processing.

Paths in the country, made of old brick, should be carried out according to the above scheme. This is the only way to guarantee the receipt of a strong and durable coating that can become a decoration of the cottage and last for many years.

Preparatory work and collection of tools

Do-it-yourself country paths made of bricks are made on the basis of a building plan containing a drawing of the future object and its technical characteristics.

At the same time, the plan is of tremendous importance, since it is a visual display of a building that previously existed only in thoughts. Having created a detailed drawing, a person imagines how such a sidewalk will look, and understands the feasibility of building on a particular site.

The next step after drawing up a construction plan is the marking of the area. As a rule, it is performed using wooden posts and a rope connecting them together. The delimitation of the garden plot makes it possible to see the contours of the future brick path, all its twists and turns.

As soon as the preparatory work is over, and the future brick garden paths have taken shape with the help of ropes and posts, you can start collecting inventory.

This process is of utmost importance, since it makes it possible to significantly speed up and simplify the work. The following set of tools will help you make a red brick path:

roulette;
pencil;
hacksaw;
rubber mallet;
shovel;
bucket.

Formation of a country sidewalk of bricks and its finishing

What can be done with recycled materials? Can independently build a brick border for a flower bed.

Brick paths for summer cottages are one of the most successful and striking objects in which the use of waste material is almost imperceptible.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEPVrUcFZQE

The next step is to make the base on which the brick surface will be laid. Using a shovel, it is necessary to dig a hole up to 1 m deep over the entire area of the path. After that, a pillow of gravel is formed at its bottom, designed to ensure the removal of water from the surface. A layer of sand is poured onto the rubble and leveled, forming the basis for laying brick blocks.

A wooden board is laid along the contour of the future red brick path, which plays the role of a curb. Its appointment is conditional, since after completion of work it should be removed. However, during the construction process, it is simply irreplaceable, since it helps to obtain a flat plane.

Directly next to it is placed a boundary brick, which is laid on the end. Such placement of it will allow the path in the country house not to blur and keep its shape.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnL1xE7QDSQ

Between the two curbs with the help of a rubber hammer, the blocks themselves are stacked. At the same time, each of them is installed close to the other in such a way that the gaps between them are minimal. Their removal to the level and the formation of a monolithic surface is carried out using a rubber hammer. At the end, a layer of sand is poured over the finished red brick plane, designed to fill the gaps and complete the composition of the track.