In recent years, the availability of such finishing material as ceramic tiles has increased several times. A huge range of collections of facing ceramics allows almost anyone to buy tiles for arranging flooring. And it is not surprising that many owners of the so-called secondary housing, when repairing, prefer to use ceramic tiles. But, as a rule, most of them face a problem. laying tiles on wood floor. If the technology of laying porcelain stoneware on a concrete base has long been developed and does not present any difficulties, then in the case of wooden floors it is not so simple. In this article we will talk about the preparation of a wooden floor for laying ceramic tiles, we will try to reveal all the nuances of the process.
Literally from the first lines, I would like to focus your attention on the fact that laying tiles on a wooden floor and on wooden surfaces is not the same thing! Unlike tiling walls made of wood, the situation with floors is much more complicated. So, you have an old wooden floor and a great desire to ennoble the flooring. You should start by inspecting the surface. Depending on the audit carried out, the methods of preparing a wooden floor for tiles can go in two directions.
There are several ways to prepare the base of a wooden floor for laying tiles:
- First- a traditional screed, only thinner and lighter. A metal mesh is spread over the waterproofing, which is fastened with self-tapping screws to the subfloor through small uniform sections. The laser level beats off a horizontal line along the entire perimeter of the room with a water level. The level of the future floor is set along it, then beacons are set at a distance of about 90-100 cm from each other and about 10 cm from the walls, and a cement screed no more than 3 cm thick is poured. Self-leveling mixture can be used as a screed. After the screed has dried, you can lay the tiles on the wooden floor.
- Second- the so-called dry screed, which is becoming more and more popular. This method is in no way inferior to concrete, but unlike it, a dry screed weighs much less and does not give a noticeable load on wooden structures. Before laying the tiles on a wooden floor, first sheets of moisture-resistant drywall (GKLV), gypsum-fiber sheets (GVL) or cement-bonded particle boards (DSP) are laid on the waterproofing. Plates are stacked in several layers. It is preferable to choose gypsum-fiber sheets, which are made by semi-dry pressing of gypsum powder and secondary cellulose fibers, have improved heat and sound insulating characteristics, and thanks to a special hydrophobic impregnation. GVL can be used in rooms with high humidity. They are more plastic and stronger than drywall, and in comparison with cement-bonded particle boards, they are much lighter and cheaper.
Sheets are screwed to the rough base using self-tapping screws. Make sure that the GVL joints are located above the boards, and not above the gaps between them, otherwise the base will not be strong enough. The seams between the sheets are glued with special glue for GVL or GKL. In some cases, one layer of gypsum fiber sheets is enough, but if you doubt the rigidity of the floor, it is better not to be greedy and lay a second layer.
In the bathroom, it is necessary to make high-quality waterproofing at the junction of the floor with the walls. Most craftsmen use mounting foam for this. And although this method of insulation is done quickly and quite reliably, we still recommend resorting to polymer membrane waterproofing. Strips about 30 cm wide are cut, which are inserted between the GVL and the base of the floor with one side, and attached to the wall with the other side, the joints are glued with sealant.
After all the GVL sheets are laid and fixed, they are covered with a universal deep penetration primer (several times, after the previous layer has dried). When all our coatings are well dried, you can start laying floor tiles on the wooden floor. When choosing a tile adhesive, pay attention to the fact that it is suitable for work on GVL or GKL.
In addition to the methods described above, it is possible to strengthen the base without a screed - using KC glue based on liquid glass or two-component polyurethane glue. When the glue dries, an elastic waterproofing film forms on the surface of the subfloor. According to manufacturers, such compounds are able to protect tiles from cracking during natural shrinkage of a wooden base. It is difficult to judge how reliable such a method is. However, we recommend that you choose a rigid and durable base. Polyurethane compounds should be used only when it is not possible to prepare the subfloor in another way or it is required to tile the wooden floor in a small area.
And finally, we invite you to watch a video of the installation of a dry screed from the GSP floor elements from the Stroyformat company and the subsequent laying of porcelain stoneware on a wooden floor.
This type of finishing material for the floor is very popular and there are no serious problems with its installation today.
Fortunately, manufacturers produce a lot of adhesive compositions characterized by high adhesive qualities.
There are, however, difficulties with laying, only in private households.
And the most key ones are the presence of floors from. Here the question of whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor is particularly acute.
And, if possible, how is it done correctly, what is the emphasis on, what nuances should be taken into account, and what should not be done? Detailed instructions and warnings for novice masters are fully set out below.
The use of tile flooring in private homes is also justified by the fact that under it you can organize a water-heated floor or an electric one.
This will save money on paying for, as well as in view of a number of advantageous qualities of the material:
- High wear resistance
- Long service life
- fire resistance
- Tiles can withstand high loads
- Ease of care
- Ease of installation
Preliminary work and calculations
After everything became more or less clear with the choice of material, you need to make the correct calculation of the tile. There will be no particular difficulties in this, if you have even the slightest idea about the costs of laying tiles. And it happens:
- Straightforward
- Diagonal (oblique)
- herringbone
- Offset
It is worth dwelling a little more specifically on the choice of tiles in the bathroom of a private sector room.
Here preference should be given to non-slip. Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bath in principle, you can read more about the laying process a little lower in the following subsections.
Formulas and nuances of calculating the number of tiles
- calculate the area of the room
- add 7% to the received indicator
- divide the result of the calculation by the area of \u200b\u200bone plate
- divide the result by the number of tiles in one package
- round to whole number
If the “diagonal” laying method is chosen, then approximately 12% is added to the final result (for cutting). With the herringbone layout method - 15%. The simplest and most economical - "rectilinear". If a floor with a pattern is laid out, then the materials for it are completely different and more complex.
Proper preparation of wooden floors
This is the most important stage of work, since the quality and the final result as a whole depend on it.
There are several ways to prepare a wooden base for tiling, the choice of one of them directly depends on the condition of the floor at the moment.
A wood floor is a one-piece structure, not just top floorboards.
This includes: logs, beams and substrate.
And they need to be double-checked before laying.
Gender check
Experienced craftsmen recommend using exclusively tongue-and-groove boards with a new floor covering, which implies a complete disassembly of the structure. Even if, at first glance, the floor looks perfect, it does not emit any creak, the floorboards are securely fixed and do not wobble at all.
Note! If the logs are installed at a distance from each other in increments of up to 50 cm, it must be additionally redesigned, in this form it will not be able to withstand the weight of the new flooring.
Algorithm for verification work in a wooden base:
- Floorboards are removed
- Beams and logs are being audited
- The level checks the evenness and horizontality of the supporting structures
If there is no possibility of raising the lag, then a wedge or a piece of scrap is hammered under it, fastened, and the excess is simply cut off.
Surface preparation
Wood by nature is an organic material, which means that it cannot be considered stable and reliable. With an increase in humidity, it swells, with its lack - on the contrary, it dries up, decreasing in size.
This raises the question: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a private house, with such technical characteristics of the base.
Experienced craftsmen give a positive answer, provided that before laying it will be organized to cushion the movement of the floorboards - a damper layer. Where he turns to the base of the tile with a solid surface, and elastic to a wooden one, taking on pushes.
Important point! When constructing such a layer, it is important to remember that the tree must breathe, otherwise it will begin to rot or deteriorate from fungus and mold.
What is important to do when processing the floor:
- Treat thoroughly with antiseptics and impregnations
- Fill the distance between the lags with expanded clay of fine fraction
- Prepare new or old floorboards
- Important to consider! When using old floorboards, they should be additionally prepared - completely remove the paintwork.
- Lay the floorboards on the structure with a gap between them of 5 mm (for expansion)
- If there are cracks, knots on the floorboards - they need to be puttied and sanded
- Fully sand the coating, after roughing
- The gaps between the boards are filled with tape or foam
- To organize monolithic insulation, the surface is coated with latex impregnation or heated drying oil
Lightweight tie device
The third stage of preparatory work is the creation of a solid foundation for tiles. It is rational and correct to organize an ordinary monolithic screed, only lightweight because it cannot withstand a full-fledged, considered base.
In principle, three types of screed are used for laying clinker, porcelain stoneware or tile:
- Standard monolithic - thickness no more than 3 cm. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the waterproofing layer, fixed with self-tapping screws and poured with concrete mortar.
- Liquid glass or KS glue. You can also use a two-component polyurethane adhesive. They are used to create an elastic coating, to prevent cracking of tile dies from wood movements.
A screed based on liquid glass can be prepared.
To do this, you need to prepare: liquid glass, water and washed coarse sand in proportions, respectively - 2: 1: 2.
If the bath in a private house is dry, then the surface of the floors can be leveled with GVL or DSP boards.
They are laid at an angle of 30 0 C, but so that the joints of the plates and the joints of the subfloor do not match.
You can protect and additionally fasten the seams with a special adhesive for drywall.
Highlights of installing tiles on wooden floors
The entire laying process consists of the following steps: marking, preparing the adhesive, laying and grouting the tile joints. We will not dwell on each separately this time, but we will analyze the most important ones right now:
- It will not be superfluous to place the tiles on the floor before “landing” them on the glue. So you can distribute the material as accurately as possible by removing the edged parts, select a more accurate pattern, and so on.
- It is very important to adhere to the line of the window opening when laying. The lines must be strictly parallel to it. To make it convenient to adhere to the same width of the seams, you can use crosses in your work.
- To increase the adhesion of the base of the tile and the floor, you can use a special cement-based adhesive in your work.
- To increase the strength characteristics of the hitch, you can use compounds containing plasticizers or add them yourself to the adhesive at the rate of no more than 15% of the total mass of the adhesive.
- It is important to remember that the glue must be used completely within three hours.
- The working surface (glue application area) should not be too large - optimally one square meter.
- If mistakes are made during laying, they must be corrected within 10 minutes, otherwise it will be impossible - the glue will begin to stick.
Important point! You need to start laying from the farthest corner, move towards the doors, focusing on the center lines.
The only and nevertheless important disadvantage of laying tiles on a wooden floor is its fragility, but, with proper care for 7 years, it is guaranteed to serve as a reliable and durable foundation.
Despite the fragility - this is the most optimal momentary problem of organizing flooring. Moreover, there are no special difficulties and problems in installation. The main thing is to properly prepare the wooden base, and everyone who reads the material will know how to do it.
About laying tiles on wooden bases - on the video:
Porcelain stoneware and tiles are traditionally considered the best flooring for toilets, hallways and baths. Laying tiles on a wooden floor is much more difficult than on a concrete one. This guide covers options for subflooring and tongue and groove tiling.
Self-laying tiles on a wooden floor is dangerous with mistakes. The home master should take into account the nuances:
The main problems of incompatibility of wood, tile adhesive and tiles are as follows:
- the service life of plywood, sheet pile, chipboard and OSB is lower than that of tiles, so the maintainability of the structure is very low;
- internal stresses in wood cause warping and other deformations;
- the rigidity of the cured tile adhesive and porcelain stoneware/tile facings is by default higher than that of wood-based boards, tongue and groove boards;
- in ceilings along beams, a wooden black floor is practically the only structural solution;
- in the secondary housing stock, wooden floors are made along the logs over the slab, in this case, the structure should be simplified by dismantling the floorboards and logs, pouring the screed for tiling.
Tiles are glued to a wooden floor with special compounds of increased plasticity. However, the developer will not receive 100% guarantees in any case:
- wood can dry out or warp, that is, change linear or spatial dimensions;
- with a deflection of a less durable base, a thin layer of tile adhesive will crack or split, the tile will fly off.
To ensure the main condition - the rigidity of the base floor is higher than the finish coating, several methods are used for the specified operating conditions:
Cladding technology
The most difficult technique for gluing porcelain stoneware to a tongue and groove, the simplest is a self-leveling floor screed over DSP sheets, which is not difficult to tile. It should be remembered that for the safety of the rooms adjacent to the bathroom at the time of possible flooding, the height of the finish coating in them should be at least 2 cm higher.
The floor level in the bathroom should be 20 mm lower than in the hallway.
The conflict between wooden structures and ceramic cladding on top of them is caused by the following factors:
Therefore, the operational resource of load-bearing beams and wooden decking is sharply reduced.
Tiles on the black floor
If the project includes ceilings along beams, a binder is attached to these supporting structures at the lower level. Insulating materials and insulation are laid on it as necessary, then the subfloor is lined.
The budget option is edged board flooring, but in order to lay tiles on top of the subfloor, it is better to increase the construction budget, make the subfloor from board materials (plywood, OSB, DSP). The number of seams will decrease, the stability of the geometry and the overall resource of the structure will increase.
Due to the high humidity of bathrooms, a dry screed as a base for laying tiles on a wooden floor is not the best option:
- expanded clay sand is highly hygroscopic, and it cannot evaporate the accumulated moisture through the waterproof lining (dangerous in case of leakage);
- the design has a solid weight, respectively, heavily loads the beams of wooden floors.
However, the practice of operating such structures exists, so you need to know how to properly make it yourself. The technique consists of several operations:
Advice! To correctly lay the flooring, you should consider the placement of plumbing, the geometry of the room and the format of the tiles. Either a solid tile or pieces of more than half of its format should adjoin the walls to ensure a normal bathroom interior.
Gluing on a special mixture
Most of the leading manufacturers of dry mixes have special compositions of increased elasticity for decorating wooden load-bearing structures with tiles. Most popular products:
- Lacrysil - packaged in red buckets;
- Kreps - Super modification;
- Litokol - Litoflex K81 or Superflex K77;
- Ceresit - a mixture of SM-17.
It is possible to lay tiles on two-component mixtures based on polyurethane resins Bona R770, Utsin MK-92, Stauf PUK 440 or Kiilto Slim. They have high adhesion, both to the lower layer of wood and the upper one - to ceramic tiles. However, the life of these compounds is low, they should be diluted little by little in order to have time to develop a solution before setting begins.
Advice! It is not recommended to glue tiles with ordinary tile adhesive on wood, as it is intended exclusively for mineral substrates.
The technology for laying tiles on a black floor is as follows:
- sealing the seams of plywood, chipboard, DSP with putty;
- applying special tile adhesive to the base;
- leveling the pastel with a notched trowel;
- laying tiles using SVP systems or standard crosses.
Usually one-piece cladding elements are mounted according to the layout scheme. The next day, cutting and stacking of pieces is performed. Then the seams are rubbed and the plinths attached to the walls are mounted.
The flatness and horizontality of the base is leveled by lags. Small defects are hidden with tile adhesive. Additionally, puttying the surface of the black floor is not necessary. First you need to get rid of the squeaks and replace the beams / logs if necessary.
Unlike most wood-based boards from which the subfloor is made, OSB is coated with wax. Which provides additional costs to the developer - the impregnation will have to be cleaned off with angle grinders, artificially increase the adhesion of the base with tile adhesive and reinforce this layer with a polymer mesh. Therefore, it is worth choosing DSP / chipboard or plywood.
Tiles on grooved board
The technology for decorating a tongue and groove with tiles is very complicated due to the following nuances:
Advice! A layer of self-leveling floor, glue and cladding will dramatically increase the structural loads on the timber floor beams. It is highly desirable to make a new calculation for the deflection and bearing capacity of structural elements using the method of rigidly clamped single-span beams.
Revision and strengthening
Before gluing tiles on a wooden floor, it is imperative to revise the supporting structures:
- add logs to reduce the distance between them and / or increase the thickness of the floorboards;
- eliminate creaking, stretch self-tapping screws or add additional fasteners to an existing structure;
- replace, if necessary, vapor barrier and insulation materials;
- pull off the tongue-and-groove board to eliminate cracks;
- remove the paintwork completely with a grinder;
- treat the tongue with an antiseptic or fire and bioprotection (the composition additionally includes a flame retardant that increases fire resistance).
Initially, only the first, every fourth and last row of floorboards are attached to the joists. After tightening with self-tapping screws, all boards are fixed to the lags.
More details about the laying of the grooved board were discussed.
self-leveling floor
To level the boardwalk in a wooden house, budget modifications of a cement-based self-leveling floor are used. They have self-leveling properties, which makes it easier to work with these compounds. The main nuances of the technology are:
For walking on a liquid solution, paint shoes with a needle sole are used.
Unlike wet concrete screed, the minimum thickness of which is 3 cm, self-leveling floors can be leveled "to zero". However, at the same time, separating layers of hydro-, vapor barrier films, sound insulation and insulation are prohibited.
Tile decoration
Regardless of whether the tile is laid on a wooden base or a screed, you should adhere to the standard cladding technology:
Advice! Floor plumbing is best mounted on top of the tiles. This will reduce the amount of trimming, provide an even solid base, and allow you to save the pattern of the seams.
Since the height of the flooring in the bathrooms is lower than in adjacent rooms, the tiles are laid close to the door frame. There is no interface with other facing materials, no threshold and plinth are needed.
Thus, tiles in rooms with high humidity can be laid independently, both on a wooden black floor and on grooved board floorboards. In this case, the recommendations of specialists should be followed to ensure maximum operational life.
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- Tiles should be laid in wooden buildings. Most of these structures have wooden beams of interfloor floors, various types of wooden floors were laid on them: natural boards, parquet boards, etc. It is technically impossible to replace a wooden floor with reinforced concrete, you have to use a different technology to create a solid foundation for ceramic tiles.
- It is not possible to completely dismantle the old coating. The reasons for this situation can be different, from problems with the disposal of construction waste to the impossibility of dismantling worn-out coatings due to the peculiarities of existing engineering networks. In such cases, only the unsatisfactory condition of the old wooden coverings can be a limitation, it has lost its bearing capacity and cannot withstand the additional load.
- The need to complete construction work as quickly as possible with a minimum amount of debris and dust. If in a residential apartment there is a need to replace the floor only in the bathroom or toilet, then the work should be done as quickly as possible. People live in the rest of the premises, it is impossible to worsen the conditions of their stay in the premises for a long time.
Modern building materials and technologies have greatly simplified the process of laying tiles on wooden bases, but even in this case, such work is extremely sensitive to the slightest violation of the recommended technologies.
Tarkett floor tiles prices
tarkett floor tiles
Process complexity
Wood is a natural building material that has its own specific characteristics and the resulting requirements for operating conditions.
- Hygroscopicity. With an increase in relative humidity or in direct contact with water, wooden structures absorb moisture. With a decrease in humidity, they give it away. Laying ceramic tiles leads to the fact that one side of the lumber is hermetically sealed, the process of natural ventilation deteriorates significantly, and in some cases stops completely. As a result, wooden structural elements remain in a wet state for a long time, as a result of which decay processes are accelerated. Even the most modern waterproofing impregnations and antiseptics are not able to stop these negative processes completely and for a long time. As a result, wooden structures critically reduce their original physical characteristics, the floor collapses, and there is a need for urgent, complex and expensive repairs.
- Significant linear fluctuations. With fluctuations in humidity, lumber noticeably changes its dimensions. The tile is fixed on cement adhesives, they do not have plasticity and cannot compensate for such changes. As a result, the coating comes off the base. To minimize such phenomena, it is necessary to take special construction measures that exclude the contact of the adhesive with expanding surfaces or create strong screeds that work regardless of the vibration of the wooden floor.
- Big extra weight. Wooden floors are laid on wooden logs, their cross section, pitch and total number are calculated according to the weight of the boards and maximum loads. Not always lags can hold increased efforts, and the increase can be very significant. Under ceramic tiles, you need to make a separate base, to which you need to add the weight of the tile and glue. In total, the new loads are much larger than the existing ones.
Can ceramic tiles be laid on a wooden floor? Possible, but highly undesirable. At the same time, you should always be aware of the problems that will appear after laying the tiles on the tree.
Revision of the state of the wooden floor
This is where work should begin after a decision has been made. How to technically correctly assess the actual state of the structure, because the strength and durability of a ceramic tile floor largely depends on this?
Work on laying tiles is allowed to begin only after a quality repair of the base. Boards in the future can not be changed and not used, but the logs change without fail.
Important. If the wooden floor is affected by putrefactive processes, this indicates gross violations of the technology of its arrangement. Most often, there is no or ineffective natural ventilation. Be sure to correct the detected technological errors, otherwise the new floor will quickly become unusable.
Foundation preparation
The quality of preparation of the base for the floor has a significant impact on the technology of laying ceramic tiles. Currently, builders use two methods of subfloor preparation, each with its own strengths and weaknesses.
Table. Foundation preparation methods.
| Foundation preparation method | Technical description and performance characteristics |
|---|---|
| The fastest and cleanest method of ground preparation. Old wooden floors are covered with plywood, OSB or special plasterboard. All materials must be moisture resistant. The slabs are laid in a horizontal position, all possible measures are taken to increase their stability. Ceramic tiles are mounted on this base with glue, the laying technology does not differ from the usual one. The advantages of the method are the speed and the minimum amount of construction waste. Disadvantages - relatively low mechanical strength, negative reaction to prolonged contact with water. |
| A cement-sand screed is made on a wooden floor. The solution is semi-dry, due to which the volume of water decreases. Waterproofing must be installed between the wooden structures and the screed. You can use expensive modern special membranes, or you can take cheap plastic film. The effect of these materials in this case is the same, and the cost of installation differs significantly. The thickness of the screed is approximately 5 cm; to increase the strength, it is recommended to use a metal or polymer reinforcing mesh. The advantages of the method are high strength. Disadvantages - a lot of weight, duration of work, a lot of garbage. |
The choice of a particular method depends on many factors and must be done by the foreman on site.
Tsugunov Anton Valerievich
Reading time: 5 minutes
The vast majority of apartments, especially those built during the Soviet period, were equipped with wooden floors. But for rooms with a high operational load or high humidity - such as corridors, kitchens, bathrooms, showers, tile floors are more suitable. Ceramic tile (tile) is superior to wood in terms of durability and practicality. It is much easier to keep it perfectly clean. But will the tile lie on a wooden floor if you don’t want to disassemble it? Or is it not possible to do so?
What are the challenges of laying tiles on wood?
The installation of tiled floors requires a perfectly flat, fixed base. The tree is sensitive to changes in the microclimate of the room: it swells with excessive humidity, dries out and shrinks when used at high temperatures. Such a base is not suitable for tiles: it will crack or begin to “walk”. When using small tiles, cracks will go along the seams between the floor elements.
In turn, the wood is also uncomfortable under the ceramic layer. Wooden parts, devoid of natural ventilation, will become unusable much faster under the influence of dampness and microorganisms.
But modern materials and appropriate technologies make it possible to create an intermediate layer that allows you to lay tiles on a wooden floor.
Revision of the old coating
Before choosing a method for preparing the base for laying tiles, it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection. The sequence of future work will largely depend on the condition of the old floors.
Under no circumstances should it be laid on newly erected wooden floors. They should be given at least two to three years to shrink. So in new buildings, tiles cannot be laid on wood. It is necessary either to wait, or to completely dismantle the floors and construct a fundamentally different foundation, for example, a concrete screed.
It should be noted that the tiled coating is laid for a very long time. Therefore, you must be absolutely sure that the elements of the old coating will last no less. It makes no sense to start fussing with tiles if it will soon have to be opened due to rotten base elements.
Professionals insist on a complete overhaul of old floors to find and replace all defective elements.
Be sure to check the condition and the distance between them. It should not exceed 50 cm, otherwise the base may not withstand the weight of tiles, glue and other materials.
Strong boards that do not have visible defects can be used, but they must first be freed from the old coating: paint or varnish. You can do this in different ways:
- Mechanical - clean off the coating with an abrasive tool: sandpaper, grinder, grinder with a special nozzle.
- Thermal - heat the paint with a building hair dryer. It will swell and be easily removed with a spatula. Some masters manage to use an ordinary blowtorch for these purposes, but we must remember about the possibility of fire.
- Chemical - remove varnish or paint using various reagents. But the tree, having been saturated with them, will emit unpleasant odors for a long time, so this method is used very rarely.
Foundation preparation
So, you should carefully disassemble the wooden floors, assess the state of the log. Replace defective ones, add additional logs if necessary, securely fasten them and align them.
All elements of the wooden floor structure must be treated with an antiseptic. After it dries, you can update or replace the insulation. This may be a layer of expanded clay, mineral wool slabs or another type of thermal insulation. When laying, the recommendations for the use of the selected material must be observed.
Between the boards of the subfloor and the insulation, it is necessary to leave a space of 5 cm to create natural ventilation.
When mounting the flooring back, you should not fill the boards closely, but leave a gap of several millimeters between them so that the tree can breathe. A gap of 10 cm is left between the floor and the walls. Then it can be sealed with mounting foam.
The course of further work depends on the chosen method of preparing the base. The main ones are a lightweight screed device, or polyurethane adhesives.
- A layer of mortar is applied to the floor surface, consisting of sand (2 parts), liquid glass (2 parts) and water. All components must be thoroughly mixed.
The tiles are fixed with a two-component polyurethane adhesive. It retains its plasticity after hardening, so that it will not only provide a secure fixing of the tiles, but also compensate for small fluctuations in the parts of the subfloor.
Lightweight screed
The meaning of this method is to create a solid and even base, not connected to the walls and wooden floor. This floating design will ensure the integrity of the tile flooring. The optimal thickness of the screed is 30 mm: a smaller one will not give sufficient strength to the base, a larger one will significantly increase the weight of the floor.
- A layer of waterproofing is created. It can be rolled material: glassine, bituminous paper or even thick polyethylene. Often use waterproofing mastics or heated drying oil. In this case, reinforcement with fiberglass masking mesh is used.
- A damper tape is glued along the perimeter of the room between the floor and the wall.
- A thin metal mesh is attached to the waterproofing layer with self-tapping screws.
- A 30 mm high screed is poured.
You can use a regular mortar of cement and sand, but it is better to use self-leveling mixtures: they dry much faster, and it is more convenient to work with them.
- After hardening, the screed is primed, and then the tiles are laid in the same way as on a conventional concrete base.
Plywood base
To create an even and solid base for tiles, plywood sheets are used. It is better to cut them into 4 parts. Laying is carried out, observing the following recommendations:
- After impregnating the base with an antiseptic and laying a waterproofing layer, the plywood is fixed in a checkerboard pattern.
- A compensating gap of 5 mm is left between the individual elements. In the future, it can be sealed with a sealant or foam.
Plywood is also subject to thermal expansion, which is why a compensating gap between individual sheets is needed. And also a gap of 10 mm wide is left around the entire perimeter of the room.
- The resulting surface is processed with a grinder along, across and obliquely. Then primed.
- A waterproofing layer is formed from latex impregnation, paint mesh and liquid glass solution.
- The tile is attached with polyurethane adhesive.
Plywood can be replaced with moisture-resistant drywall or gypsum fiber boards. The technology will not differ much, but it is worth using components designed specifically for these materials.
Laying tiles
Tiles are laid on wooden floors in the same way as on a concrete base:
- Laying starts from the middle of the room or from the far corner opposite the entrance.
- With lightweight screed or gypsum boards, it is recommended to use cement adhesive solutions, for plywood or boards - two-component polyurethane adhesive.
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