Self-leveling floors for a wooden base. Is it possible to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor? Self-leveling floor over wood flooring

The main advantages of self-leveling floors include durability, strength and safety. Polyurethane coatings have not only good performance characteristics. Blends produced today have a large number of diverse color solutions. Floors with a three-dimensional effect look especially beautiful. The only thing that confuses the owners of apartments and houses is the preparation of the foundation. After all, removing old wooden floors and preparing an even screed is a rather laborious process. Not everyone knows that there is no need to pluck wooden planks. It is enough just to choose the right self-leveling floor for a wooden floor.

When choosing a mixture, you should pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations. If a wooden coating is mentioned among the recommended bases, such a composition can be safely used for pouring. Self-leveling compounds for wooden floors are produced by many manufacturers, so choosing the right leveler is not difficult.

Requirements for a wooden base

It is worth noting that not every wooden floor is suitable as a base for a self-leveling mixture. The wooden floor must necessarily meet the following requirements:

the coating does not creak;
all boards must be securely fastened and must not bend when walking;
the wooden floor does not have significant level differences;
there are no gross defects on the surface of the boards;
the boards are in good condition, they do not have damage caused by the fungus, rotten areas.

If the floor meets these requirements, you can proceed to the next step - preparing the base.

Important: In the event that there are any of the listed defects, it will be necessary to revise the wooden coating, check the condition of the old logs, and, if necessary, install additional ones. You may need to replace some boards that have become unusable.

Foundation preparation

The self-leveling floor on a wooden base is poured only after its thorough preparation. The service life of the self-leveling coating largely depends on how well the surface of the boards will be leveled.

First of all, the surface of the boards is sanded. Filmed upper layer with varnish, paint and dirt. After sanding, the boards are treated with emery to give a rough structure.
Next, remove all the plinths around the perimeter of the room, and the resulting gaps are closed with bars. All seams at the joints of the boards are scraped, all cracks and chips are cleaned. Dust and small debris are removed with a vacuum cleaner. Before pouring the self-leveling floor on the boards, they should also be degreased. To do this, you can use a special cleaning powder.
The next step in preparing the base is the installation of beacons and laying the tape around the perimeter of the room. The tape will act as a damper pad, and the beacons will help to pour the self-leveling floor onto the wooden floor without drops. They are set using a water level, and the height of the installation depends on the layer of self-leveling coating. As a rule, the thickness of the layer of the mixture is in the range from 1 mm to 5 mm.
Before pouring, it is mandatory to check the humidity level in the room and the air temperature. Compliance with the requirements indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging is one of the important conditions successful completion of work.

Floor pouring technology

Pouring a self leveling floor wooden floors almost the same as concrete base mixes.

First you need to properly prepare the mixture. The amount of water needed to mix the composition is indicated on the package.

Important! The proportions recommended by the manufacturer must be strictly observed. If there is too much liquid, self-levelling wood flooring compounds will cure significantly longer and their resistance to external influences will be less than expected.

If there is not enough water, the mixture will harden for a shorter period of time, and you may not have time to distribute it.

Be sure to pay attention to the hardening time of the composition. If you have no experience with pouring self-levelling floors, it is better to knead the mortar in small portions so that you can have time to level it on the floor surface. To speed up the process of distributing the mixture, you can invite an assistant and divide the work between them.
Filling is recommended to start from the place of the lowest level. Level the self-leveling floor on wood with a soft spatula or roller with needles. When choosing a roller, it is important to consider the thickness of the future coating. The length of the needles should be 2 mm longer. If the needles are short, the roller will sink deeper into the solution than necessary and create excessive fluid movement. Long spikes will not allow the roller to quickly distribute the mixture. To move on the surface, already filled with the composition, use special pads for shoes with spikes.
After the self-leveling leveler, remove the beacons and leave the surface to dry completely. Manufacturers indicate the minimum time required for the mixture to harden. If it is planned to further work with a flooded surface, professionals recommend waiting a week.

Self-levelling wood floor leveler can be poured over both wooden boards and plywood. Polymer self-leveling floors do not contain moisture that can cause deformation of the base, but to fill cement mortars must be approached with special care. Depending on the moisture resistance of the plywood sheets, additional waterproofing may be required. In general, a self-leveling floor is poured onto plywood in the same way as on wood. Some experts recommend using a reinforcing mesh when applying a self-leveling mortar.

You can get more detailed answers to the questions: is it possible to lay a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor and how to do it correctly after watching the following video.

The 21st century is the time that made the self-leveling floor on a wooden base so popular and in demand both in residential premises and in modern offices. Today, self-leveling floors on a wooden floor are not just a coating, but also an excellent decorative solution, especially if 3D imaging technology is being shared. Such floor coverings have many advantages and worthy performance characteristics, as well as quite democratic cost. Few people know how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor with their own hands, but this is not as difficult as it might seem at first. This guide will help you make a self-leveling floor on the boards.

What are self-leveling floors on a wooden base?

A self-leveling floor on a wooden base is not one solution, but a whole category of materials that are applied to concrete or wood (as in this case) basis. Self-leveling floor on a wooden floor can be divided into:

Polyurethane. Durable and resistant to long-term impacts, a polymer floor that is the best suited for arranging floor covering in places with a lot of people.
Epoxy. This is a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor that does not react to moisture in any way. Such floors are recommended to be installed in wet areas, especially in the bathroom and kitchen.
Epoxy urethane. A type of polymer floor that has good performance strength and wear resistance. Can be used as an alternative to polyurethane coating.
Methyl methacrylate. Polymer floor with excellent thermal insulation properties, often used for arranging floors in rooms without heating or with poor heating in the cold season.

Do-it-yourself self-leveling floor on a wooden floor can be one-component and two-component. The first type is often used as the basis for installing parquet, stone, tile or other decorative coating. Two-component coatings often contain a three-dimensional image that gives the floor a creative and unusual appearance. Next, we will figure out whether it is possible to make a 3D floor on a wooden floor and how to do it.

The main advantages of self-leveling floors on a wooden base

Filling floor on a wooden floor is a solution that has received its demand not only due to its appearance, but also because of its good specifications and numerous benefits. They can be found below:

High resistance to prolonged mechanical influences, resistance to wear and abrasion.
Excellent impact resistance chemical substances- the self-leveling floor under the tree will withstand even acids.
A wide range of available colors, design styles, patterns and textures, images.
Excellent sound and heat insulation performance - the creative self-leveling wooden floor is quiet and warm!
High strength, reliability, long service life of the coating, which will last for decades.
Availability antistatic properties, thanks to which the self-leveling wooden floor is quite easy to clean.
Absolute seamlessness - this facilitates the process of floor maintenance, prevents squeaks of the coating.

It can be seen that the self-leveling floor in wooden house is not only modern and beautiful, but also practical solution, which will be able to delight the inhabitants of the home for many years. In addition, such coverage can be equipped on their own. We will learn how to fill a wooden floor with self-leveling floor, what tools and building materials are needed for this.

What tools are needed for arranging the floor?

Do-it-yourself self-leveling floor for wooden bases requires the use of a wide range of tools, fixtures and materials that must be prepared before starting work. You should definitely have on hand:

A special mixture for a self-leveling floor is the basis of a future floor covering.
Long spatula, needle roller (required to remove air bubbles).
Construction mixer or drill with a special nozzle, if there is no mixer.
Laser or ordinary building level, aluminum rule.
A container of at least 20 liters, a set of construction beacons and wooden blocks.
Alabaster, mortar, water in sufficient quantity for the mixture.
Triangular scraper, screwdriver, self-tapping screws, dowels, long ruler.

It also doesn't hurt special clothing– protective gloves, eye and face mask, as well as shoes designed for walking on painted surfaces (paint shoes). After preparing the necessary arsenal, you can begin.

Preparing the base for the polymer floor

Is it possible to pour self-leveling floors on a wooden floor? Yes, sometimes masters do not wonder if it is possible to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor and apply the solution directly to the old coating. However, even with this, it is necessary to carefully prepare the base of wood - it should be sanded well so that the surface becomes rough. This will greatly improve the adhesion of the floor to the layers. polymer coating. It is also worth taking care to wooden surface there were no traces of grease, dirt, oil and other contaminants on the floor - they are removed with a solvent.

Is it possible to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor if it creaks? No - otherwise the final coating will lie unevenly and cause a lot of problems. To avoid trouble, you also need to check the floor. All boards must be securely fastened in the correct position, the floor itself must be even, without bumps and defects. Also, before applying the polymer floor, it will be necessary to remove all paint from the surface of the base, if any.

Before you make self-leveling floors in a wooden house, you need to do a little preparation of the coating:

Remove all skirting boards and close the holes formed after the removal of the skirting boards.
Seal all cracks, chips and irregularities on the floor surface mortar.

Now you can proceed to actions that will eventually lead you to the completion of the arrangement of the self-leveling floor.

We level the surface and put beacons for the floor

In order for the floor to be as even as possible, you need to take care of this even on early stages. So, before pouring the solution, draw a line along the entire length of the room, then set self-tapping screws along it, the distance between which is 30 centimeters. With the help of a laser building level you will need to find the highest point located on a wooden base for a polymer floor. After detection, it is necessary to add about 5-6 mm (thickness of the floor layer) and align the screws at the same level. It is still too early to make 3D floors on a wooden floor.

The next stage, which continues the installation of a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor, is the placement of beacons. They must be placed on previously installed screws, securely fastened with mortar. After that, you should prepare a solution for the self-leveling floor - for this, the contents of the package must be mixed in a container with water in accordance with the instructions indicated on the package, and then stirred until smooth with a construction mixer.

We start pouring the solution for the self-leveling floor on the tree

We already know whether it is possible to use self-leveling floor on a wooden base. The solution prepared in advance should be carefully poured onto the prepared base, covering an area of \u200b\u200babout 2 square meters at a time. meters. The layer must be leveled along the beacons with a long spatula. When the formation of the layer is completed, it will be necessary to remove all air bubbles on the surface of the coating using a spiked roller - this is a very important step, which depends on further fate the whole result. Wait until the floor is completely dry.

Now you know how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor - video instructions on the Internet will help you see what the process looks like visually, which will give you a better understanding of the essence of the technology. Equipped coating can be used as a basis for application decorative materials, or leave as an independent floor.

At first glance, the situation is rather complicated when a relatively fragile leveling layer needs to be poured onto such an unstable base. However, there are many proven technologies that will allow you to do the installation even with your own hands.

Need to repair wooden floors in the apartment and want to use self-leveling floor? The option is not the easiest, but there are proven technologies that are easy to do even with your own hands.

Attention! !

What is the complexity of installation

If a concrete screed is used as a rough base, we can do the job without problems, this base is very strong, stable. For a successful result, it is necessary to prime, set beacons. Over with difficult case when the wooden floor in the apartment.

The boards do not form a single plane; they dangle with poor-quality installation. With fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometric dimensions change, and individual boards with different sizes, especially true with underfloor heating. When drying out, cracks appear, they will have to be sealed, then the leveling solution will not flow into them. During operation, squeaks will appear, without dismantling with repeated work, it will not get rid of it.

Wood floors are prone to rot. When installing a self-leveling floor, it will be necessary to provide conditions in order to exclude debate, the destruction of wooden elements. It is also impossible to overdry it - the tree loses its strength, cracks.

We will do it with our own hands, we will try to get by with the most accessible tools.

List of tools:

Screwdriver;
Drill with mixer nozzle;
Level;
Electroplaner;
Roulette;
Scissors.
Spatulas wide
Spatula narrow
Tanks for clean water
Solution container
Needle roller

Preparatory work

We strengthen, level the old wooden floor.

What defects have wooden floors in the apartment

Boards of various thicknesses
Boards led by a "screw"
Dry or laid with a large gap wooden elements constructions;
The presence of a creak
Decayed floorboards, beams
Old peeling paint
Level deviation

We examine the wooden floor. Is there at least one defect? Let's start fixing it. Defects occur in most cases, with the exception of new wooden floors laid in accordance with all the rules.

Checking the level of wood flooring. If the plane does not match the level, you will have to completely open the floors and level or even change the logs. It would be nice to open a small part, even if the level is within the normal range, to check the integrity of the lag, but this applies more to older designs.

Let's say we found a slope. Then it is easier to disassemble the completely wooden floors and mount them on a new one. We start the installation from the extreme logs located at opposite ends of the room. We install them exactly, according to the level, and then we stretch the cord between them. Intermediate lags are installed along the cord. Those that are above the cord, we process with a planer, and under those below, we put pieces of plywood or another suitable material. In the apartment high humidity? It is necessary to treat the material with antiseptic agents.

When the logs are laid in one plane and fixed, we begin to check the thickness of the boards. It happens that the gaps between the floorboards are 5 mm or more, then it is necessary to correct the situation, despite the fact that a leveling mixture is poured on top. It’s the same here, we remove the required thickness from thick floorboards with an electric planer, and we use linings for thin ones.

A more complex defect in the form of boards that are twisted with a “screw”. Wedges with a planer will not help. The floorboard “screw” rests on the beams with only one edge, if you chop off the protruding edge, the second edge dangles in the air, and this is not reliable. There are two options here - to change the entire floorboard or try to straighten it by pulling. It is not possible to attract with ordinary self-tapping screws, the slots are torn off or the bit is damaged, and there is not enough effort.

In this case, a long screw (at least 100mm) with a hex head can help. To attract with such a screw, we will make a hole in the board, in the place where it protrudes upwards, do not drill closer than 2 centimeters from the edge. The hole needs to be slightly larger than the thickness of the screw. We wrap the screw until the edge of the floorboard is even with the plane of the adjacent boards. Then we fix the attracted place with at least four wood screws, turn out a large screw.

Another common defect is large gaps. If we were preparing the floor for laying laminate, the gaps would not be so critical, a couple of layers of plywood would save the situation. But we need to wooden floor in the apartment, pour a liquid solution of the self-leveling floor, and it will certainly leak into the cracks. You can remove large gaps with store putties on wood, only if you go to the store, then choose acrylic for seams and sealing cracks, there are also finishing ones, they will not suit us. You can make such a putty yourself by mixing PVA glue with small sawdust.

If the wooden floor in the apartment is painted with paint and it has begun to peel off, you will have to rip it off. During operation, it, along with a layer of self-leveling floor, can move away. I won’t write about rotten floorboards and creaking. We change necessary elements and strengthen.

Preparation for pouring

We got a relatively flat and strong surface. Treat with an antiseptic internal works. We cover with a primer in two or more layers, as the wood is highly absorbent. Before priming, we clean everything from dust and sawdust. Deep penetration primer.

You will need a deformation damper between the screed and the wall. O is needed to protect against temperature deformations, especially if a warm floor is planned. The walls will not break, but the cracks on the surface will go. As such a layer, either a special self-adhesive tape is used, and strips cut from isolon. We fasten them vertically around the entire perimeter of the room.

fill

Perhaps you have already chosen, for example, gypsum, polyurethane or cement. But I would recommend using special compound Vetonit 4310 from Weber. It is designed specifically for complex bases, including deformable ones, like a wooden floor, although its base is cement. It can be used as an independent base layer, thickness up to 60 mm is allowed, as well as an intermediate layer between wood and other types of self-leveling mortar.

It is time to pour the self-leveling floor onto the wooden floor, this process is done together. One person kneads the composition, and the other pours it out, leveling it with a wide spatula. For large areas, you first need to make beacons from screwed screws or spider beacons. After leveling, it is necessary to remove air from the layer; a needle roller is used for this purpose. You need to have time to do everything no longer than 20 minutes, then it will begin to set.

The final coating is laid in 1-3 weeks. To speed up drying, you can not arrange drafts in the apartment, this will lead to uneven drying, the appearance of shrinkage cracks. To check the final drying, a vapor barrier film measuring a meter by a meter is needed. Lay the film on the screed, the formation of condensate under the film means that the drying process has not ended.

If needed heated

Now underfloor heating has become popular in private houses and apartments. Heating systems are divided into water and electric. In the case of a tree, it is better to choose an electric one, you can also do a water one, but you need to be sure that the floors will withstand a high load. For the water version, a screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm is usually needed, and this is already big weight. The pipe has a height of 16mm, a solution of 30mm is poured above the pipe, for even distribution of heat.

In this case, a prefabricated lightweight system with aluminum plates or a multi-layer underfloor heating system made of gvl sheets(drywall), you can read more about this technology here. But this is a slightly different topic.

So it's still better to use the electric option. The technology is not much different from laying on concrete screed. You already know how to make a base layer on a wooden floor, then a rolled foil insulation with reflective properties is laid on it. After it, we mount the reinforcing mesh, and already on top we roll out the heating elements and fill them with a self-leveling leveler, the DSP is also suitable, it is cheaper.

Nobody canceled the intervals for curing, when installing a heated floor - we wait 3 weeks. It is necessary to turn on the heating no earlier than a week after installation. As a final coating is suitable tile. Laminate flooring can be laid with an underlay.

Video

Advantages of bulk coating

bulk floor - technological way renovations in old apartments. Allows you to get flat surface. Eco-friendly, durable. Easy to make by hand. It is plastic, steady against cracks on the difficult wooden bases.

Self-leveling floor on wooden floor, wooden base is generally found in wooden buildings. Often these can be old houses in villages, and modern cottages made from a log house. Be that as it may, in each of these cases, you can mount a self-leveling floor.

Types of floors in wooden houses

In wooden houses, as in any other residential premises, it is necessary to Special attention pay attention to the arrangement of the floor, since its rooms are located, usually on the ground floor. Therefore, the coating, in addition to the obvious requirements for evenness and aesthetics, must also be insulated.

There are two types of floors in a wooden house: concrete or wood. At the same time, it is precisely concrete base It has large quantity benefits. It takes less time and money, and in addition, professional skills for the installation of such a coating are not required. But at the same time, there is a significant increase in the load on the foundation, and wall vibrations can provoke cracking of the base and loss of the heat-insulating ability of the material.

The second option is still more resistant to wall vibrations and more environmentally friendly. In addition, they can be processed and parts can be easily replaced, even after installation. At the same time, their cost is quite rather big, work is required. professional workers and achieve perfect smooth surface almost unrealistic.

Materials and tools

Laying a self-leveling floor on a wooden base is not such a difficult process for self-fulfillment, but at the same time it requires care and accuracy.

You will need the following tools and materials:

Construction aluminum rule at least 2 meters long;
needle roller;
Special dry mix for a bulk self-leveling floor;
Construction mixer;
Laser building level;
Alabaster;
Construction beacons - special perforated slats with a thickness of 6 to 10 mm;
Large bucket of 20 liters;
Putty knife;
Construction beacons in the form of special rails with perforation from 6 to 10 mm thick;
Stationery ruler;
Building mixture;
Self-tapping screws, screwdriver, dowels;
Vacuum cleaner and cleaning powder;
Triangular scraper;
wooden blocks

Substrate preparation before applying the mixture

Foundation preparation is milestone, on which, by and large, the quality of the finished coating depends. If you do not take into account the phased the right technology installation of self-leveling floors, as a result, the coating may crack, collapse and peel off ahead of time. Quality Foundation This is the guarantee of the durability of the flooring in your home.

In some cases, the self-leveling floor is made directly on the old wooden floor. Therefore, it is recommended to sand the wood and give it a rough structure using sandpaper. No fats, no oils, no varnish, no dirt should remain on the surface of the wood.

Now you have to remove all the baseboards and close all the holes that are in the floor with bars. The floor must be thoroughly cleaned with a scraper, special attention must be paid to the interboard joints, and all cracks must also be opened. Thoroughly clean the base of the future self-leveling floor with a vacuum cleaner and degrease it using a cleaning powder.

Further, well-cleaned cracks and cracks must be sealed using mortar, then the surface should be leveled. The next step is to draw a line along the entire length of the room at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule used. Self-tapping screws are set along these lines in increments of 30 centimeters. Now applying laser level you need to find the best high point on the basis for the future self-leveling floor.

Remember that you need to add 6 mm - the thickness of the self-leveling floor and start screwing the screws at the same level, while at the room ends the screws are also screwed in perpendicular to the pre-marked lines. Near each screw, alabaster is laid out in small pieces.

The next step is to lay the beacons intended for the self-leveling floor on the screws directly, while being careful that your beacons do not sag - they can be additionally cemented. The dry mixture is mixed with water using a mixer, in the proportion indicated by the manufacturer on the package. The finished solution is left for 5 minutes, then checked for fluidity and uniformity.

The finished solution of the self-leveling floor is poured at a time on an area equal to 2 square meters. The solution must be leveled using the beacon rule, roll it also with a spiked roller to ensure uniformity. In the process of work, you need to monitor the evenness of the level of the self-leveling floor relative to the beacons. Leave the finished floor to dry thoroughly.

Additional Information:

Self-levelling screed is comparatively new technology for Russia, which is becoming increasingly popular. How to fill the floor with a self-leveling compound?
Self-leveling floor in the garage is great solution for flooring, because this coating provides a seamless floor, because in some places there are structural vulnerabilities ...
Self-leveling floor compounds require the implementation of all actions in accordance with the instructions and correct calculation consumption. Despite the addition...

In a wooden house, as a rule, they lay a wooden floor, by the way, you can order flooring here remont-kvartiri.info, but of course it’s better to try to do it yourself. However, a self-leveling floor can be an excellent substitute, or rather one of its varieties is a leveling screed based on cement or gypsum, on which linoleum, laminate or any other coating can subsequently be laid, including another type of self-leveling floor - top coat.

If the filling is carried out correctly, the floor will level itself horizontally and quickly harden. Poor quality work leads to cracks in the floor, so you need to start with pre-training places of work.

Such a floor is made on an old wooden floor, having previously sanded it with sandpaper. Skirting boards, if any, must be removed, all joints, cracks and possible holes must be vacuumed, after which the floor must be degreased again with cleaning powder. Now you can close the cracks and joints - for this it is suitable polyurethane foam And silicone sealant for joints.

Performed in a day next stage- primer. Its absence can lead to cracks in the self-leveling floor and even peeling. In addition, the primer plays the role of a waterproofing agent. Apply primer in two layers with a roller or brush with natural bristles. After 5 hours after applying the primer, you can start laying the self-leveling floor, the maximum time between the primer and the pouring itself is a day.

If the floors are wooden, it is advisable to cover the floor with a film that completely isolates the wood from the screed. Therefore, the film should not be damaged, all possible small cuts or holes, and the joints must be glued with adhesive tape.

But between the primer and laying the floors, there is one more step - marking. Parallel lines are drawn, slightly less than the length of the floor, and at regular intervals - about 30 cm - self-tapping screws are screwed in at a certain height. They will play the role of a level, since the self-leveling floor should be about 3 cm thick.

The container for the solution should be large enough to stir the entire bag at once - at least 25 liters. If you prepare the solution in portions, you can get different characteristics due to the uneven distribution of chemical additives, which may affect the quality of the self-leveling floor.

The water for the solution must be clean and have room temperature. The self-leveling mixture is poured gradually, stirring with a mechanical drill attachment in the form of a stirrer for several minutes. The mass must be homogeneous, the amount of water and mortar must be proportional, otherwise the floor will be less durable. The solution should stand for several minutes, after which it is mixed again. The solution must be used within 20 minutes after mixing.

The mixture is poured into strips in height, according to the markings with self-tapping screws. In order for the composition to lay down evenly and bubbles form on it, immediately after pouring it is necessary to roll it with a spiked roller. If the room has a large volume, then it is better to fill it through one lane. After 5 hours, you are allowed to walk on self-leveling floor, and laying linoleum or any other finish is allowed after twelve hours.