Many gardeners believe that manure is the best fertilizer, and growing a good crop without it is a whole problem. However, it is not. There is a huge amount of fertilizers in their properties that are not inferior to manure.

Digging the beds before winter with the introduction of all kinds of fertilizers into them can significantly save time in spring and summer, because in this case there is practically no need to fertilize crops in warm seasons. Manure is the fertilizer that gardeners use most often, as it is great for most crops, but it can be replaced with other top dressings.

To determine what fertilizer is best to apply to the garden, you need to know what crops will be planted on it. It is known that most plants need potassium, calcium, nitrogen and phosphorus for normal development, however, there are such representatives of the flora that stop growing without a sufficient amount of elements such as iron, boron, copper, manganese, magnesium, etc.

So, if you want to dig up the beds in the fall with the application of mineral fertilizers, then it is better to take sparingly soluble top dressings as these same fertilizers. In this case, there will be no doubt that they will begin to act no earlier than the snow melts. For beds for vegetable crops, it is better to take fertilizers containing superphosphate (with fluff) and potassium chloride. As for trees and shrubs, some complex fertilizer can be scattered around them, of course, first loosening the soil around the plants at a distance of a meter and a half from their trunks. There should be no problems with the purchase of funds, because most hardware stores offer many fertilizers of various brands.

As for organic fertilizers, in autumn the beds for vegetable crops can be dug up with the addition of egg shells, rotten straw (namely straw, not hay, otherwise the beds will be overgrown with weeds in the spring), leaves, compost, ash, sand, chicken manure. The above components can be mixed with each other or made separately. As for the amount of application of this or that fertilizer, it depends on the composition of the soil, its acidity, the plants that you are going to plant in the garden.

In early spring, before planting, many people have a question about how to fertilize earth for a better harvest. Fertilizers are organic, mineral and organomineral.

Instruction

Organic fertilizers are divided into two groups: plant residues and fertilizers of animal origin. Vegetables include: peat, composts. For animals: manure and droppings. When organic fertilizers are applied to the soil, its structure improves significantly. This contributes to the reproduction of living organisms, which are of great benefit, both for the soil itself and for plants. To date, it is recommended to make organic fertilizers using compost. It is very easy to prepare. Spread straw 15 centimeters thick over an area of ​​10 square meters. Then a layer of manure 20 centimeters. Then a layer of peat is also 15-20 centimeters. On top of this, sprinkle lime and phosphate rock, mixing them one by one. Pour 50-60 grams per square meter. From above, add another layer of manure 15-20 centimeters. Cover all this with a thin layer of earth. This compost must be aged for 7-8 months and only then it can be used. The advantages of organic fertilizer: the first - it increases the fertility of the soil, the second - improves its structure, the third - ensures the presence of living microorganisms. But there are also disadvantages. The first one is nutritional imbalance. The second - its concentration is still unknown. The third is the content of a large number of weed seeds. Fourth, the danger of contracting diseases is great. Fifth, organic matter inherently absorbs and attracts toxic substances. And the sixth is the most dangerous, these fertilizers absorb radionuclides.

Mineral fertilizers are chemicals that require careful handling. They must be applied strictly according to the norm. Noble gardeners usually use the following: nitrogen, lime, manganese, potash and other fertilizers. Nitrogen fertilizers include: saltpeter, urea, ammonia and ammonia water. For good plant nutrition, it is necessary that there is always an abundance of nitrogen in the soil. Nitrogen fertilizers should be applied to the soil twice a year. They are applied under fruit trees twice a year. The first half of the fertilizer is around the second half of April, and the second half in mid-November. The method of applying such fertilizers is the same in spring and in autumn. The fertilizer is spread by hand, after which the soil is cultivated. For best results, the ground must be moist. Potash fertilizers significantly increase yields. Potassium in the soil is mainly in forms that are difficult for plants to access, so the need for agriculture in such fertilizers is very high. Almost all of them contain chloride, sodium and magnesium ions, which affect plant growth. It is recommended to apply potash fertilizers in the fall along with manure for the main tillage. Without phosphorus, the formation of chlorophyll and the assimilation of carbon dioxide by plants is impossible. The addition of phosphate fertilizers to the soil not only increases yields, but also improves the quality of products. These fertilizers need to be applied in the fall. First scatter them over the surface, then dig earth to a depth of twenty centimeters. Digging near trees should be parallel to the roots.

Organo-mineral fertilizers are humic fertilizers, which consist of organic substances and mineral compounds. Each drug has its own instructions for use. But there are basic ways to make. For open soil, this is the spraying method, and for closed soil, these are the methods of drip irrigation, sprinkler irrigation, surface irrigation, and manual foliar spraying. The basic consumption rate for seed treatment is 300-700 milliliters per ton of seeds. For foliar feeding - 200-400 milliliters of fertilizer per hectare of crops. For greenhouses - with drip irrigation 20-40 milliliters per thousand liters of irrigation water, and when spraying 5-10 milliliters of fertilizer per 10 liters of water.

As everyone has long known, nothing grows in empty land. If a garden If you don't fertilize, then you don't have to wait for the harvest. Plants grow weak and bear fruit poorly. When planting potatoes in the ground, which was not fertilized, you can collect one pea. The only exception is chernozem soil, and then it does not have all the nutrients, and with annual planting, their supply is inexorably reduced. Therefore, the soil must always be fertilized.

Instruction

The most popular type of fertilizer is manure. It contains a large amount of nutrients and microorganisms that release carbon dioxide necessary for plants for normal growth and nutrition. The soil fertilized with manure becomes looser, which additionally favorably affects the growth and development of plants. The best for fertilizer garden and considered horse and sheep manure. It contains the most potassium and nitrogen necessary for plants. If a sufficient amount of manure is applied to the site, then the nutrients will be supplied to the plants for 5-6 years. And everything would be fine, but manure is an expensive fertilizer, and it is very difficult to scatter it around the site, especially for a lonely elderly person. It takes male physical strength to scatter manure over a personal plot.

The second most popular type of fertilizer is humus. It is rotted manure and contains even more nutrients. The consumption of humus should be 4 times more than manure. After spreading over the site, the earth must immediately be plowed or dug.

Due to the high price of both the first and second fertilizer, gardeners and garden nicks arrange compost pits on the plots, where they dump all the weeded grass, vegetable peels and everything that can rot and go next spring as fertilizer. The pit is constantly watered with water and everything thrown into the pit is kept moist. In the spring, all the contents of the pit are scattered over garden y and close up in the soil.

At present, fertilizers are increasingly being used, which are not scattered throughout the site, but are purposefully applied to each hole of potatoes, under each bush of tomatoes or cabbage. This is a wide range of mineral fertilizers, which are presented in stores in a wide range.

Often garden nicks try to fertilize garden sawdust. There is little point to this. They help to improve the structure of the soil and retain moisture in it for a longer time. As a fertilizer, sawdust acts only in a rotted form. To do this, a pile of sawdust must be watered and covered with cellophane. You can scatter them as fertilizer only the next year.

Fertilizers have a beneficial effect on the soil and contribute to a good harvest. But it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of each fertilizer separately, so as not to harm. Fertilize potato possible in various ways.

Related articles:

• How to fertilize potatoes
• Crop rotation in the garden

Ownership question - 1 answer

Instruction

Ash. Especially valuable fertilizer containing all elements except nitrogen. It should be noted that this is an environmentally friendly fertilizer. This type of fertilizer is stored in dry, enclosed spaces, since when it comes into contact with moisture, the ash loses its properties. Ash is used in conjunction with nitrogen fertilizers, as it is more effective and beneficial for potatoes. Ash can be applied to the soil, both in spring and autumn.

Nitrogen fertilizers. Please note that due to its properties, nitrogen fertilizers are easily washed out of the soil, so this type of fertilizer is applied annually in the spring.

Phosphorus fertilizers. Due to the fact that phosphorus is slowly absorbed by plants, it is used (mixed with manure) 1 time in 2 years in the fall.

Manure. The most common and favorite way to fertilize the soil. It is more accessible and cheaper. It is recommended to fertilize the soil in the amount in which you harvested. For example, if you have collected 100 kg of potatoes, it is enough to fertilize 100-130 kg with manure next year. Of course, soil properties must also be taken into account, so some areas will require a little more fertilizer.

Related videos

Helpful advice

Clear the soil of weeds, otherwise they will take most of the fertilizer for themselves.

White cabbage is everyone's favorite healthy vegetable, few cultures can compare with it in terms of vitamin C content. It is great for salads, soups and canning. To get a good harvest of this wonderful crop in your area, you need to provide it with careful care. This culture responds especially well to top dressing.

Fertilizers at planting

To make the soil more suitable for this vegetable, it is necessary to add manure to it since autumn, because. this plant is very fond of organic fertilizers - this is the ideal food for cabbage. On acidic soils, lime or ash can be applied for digging, because. they reduce the acidity of the soil.

If the site for planting has not been prepared since autumn, then it is necessary to do this in the spring when preparing the beds. Compost is perfect for this purpose, and a small amount of it must be applied even if the land was fertilized with manure in the fall. Compost should be lightly sprinkled with earth. In addition, it is desirable to scatter potash and phosphorus fertilizers around the garden. The most optimal time for this can be considered a week before planting seedlings in a permanent place. In addition, you can add nitrogen fertilizers, because. they are necessary precisely at an early stage of plant development.

Top dressing during the season

For early varieties of cabbage, three top dressings per season are enough, later ones will have to be fertilized four times. An early-ripening vegetable is fed every three weeks, and late-ripening - less often, the latest procedure should be done no later than the end of August.

At the beginning of the season, it is good to fertilize the cabbage with a fermented infusion of grass or manure; chicken manure is also perfect for this. In the last stages of the growing season, nitrogen fertilizers should be used very carefully. The reason for this is that nitrogen contributes to the accumulation of nitrates in vegetables, therefore, the closer the harvest time, the less nitrogen can be applied to the crop.

Finish fertilizing cabbage with a double dose of phosphorus and potassium, while the nitrogen content should be reduced by half. Also, in addition to the accumulation of harmful substances, a fermented infusion of grass and manure, used for top dressing in the later stages, can provoke cracking of heads of cabbage. Such vegetables cannot be stored for a long time.

The abundance of phosphorus in the soil must be monitored throughout the season. With its lack, the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, and bubbles appear on the leaves themselves. With a lack of potassium, brown bubbles appear on the leaf plates. In the early stages, nitrogen deficiency shows up as pale leaves and stunted plant development. The lack of top dressing during this period can lead to the drying of cabbage.
Subject to the rules for fertilizing, you can get an excellent crop of cabbage. The main fertilizers for her are manure, potassium and phosphorus - they must be used, given the stage of crop growth.

You will need

• - the soil;
• - mineral fertilizers;
• - organic fertilizers;
• - lime;
• - shovel.

Instruction

Add clay if you have sandy soil. Add river sand if clayey. This must be done so that nutrients do not go deep into the earth and are not washed out by rains. Another rule that must be followed is the observance of crop rotation. It is extremely important that representatives of the same family do not grow in the garden for two years in a row. By and large, they can be returned to their place only after 3-4 years. Exceptions are perennials. Firstly, it will prevent possible diseases (for example, kilu - in cruciferous). Second, protect soil from nutritional deficiencies. After all, the same crops, along with high yields, endure the same microelements.

Make it a rule to prepare the soil in autumn. Start it by cleaning up all the plant residues of the current year. Treat with Intavir or other pesticide. The basic preparation of the beds depends on the culture that will grow in this place. For example, for root crops soil it is necessary to fertilize in the fall with double superphosphate, adding 4-5 g of the substance per 1 sq.m. beds. For these garden crops, it is better to apply organic fertilizers in the fall. It can be fresh manure - pure or mixed with straw, as an option - compost soil.

Produce soil. Lime is a good fertilizer if your soil has an elevated pH. In this case, carrying out autumn liming once every 4-5 years, it is possible to achieve a significant increase in yields. The following year, after making lime, it is appropriate to plant cruciferous plants - radishes, turnips, radishes, all types of cabbage. At the same time, organic matter is not recommended. This will reduce the benefit of both fertilizers. In this case, manure and humus are brought directly under planting.

Introduce rotted manure along with spring digging if you are going to grow leafy vegetables: lettuce, dill, parsley, cilantro, etc. Cucumbers, pumpkins and zucchini are also responsive to spring organic soil fertilization. For these crops, along with manure, a preplant application of nitrogenous fertilizers, such as urea, can be advised. Around the middle of June, the entire garden can be fed with potash, they have a good effect on the growth of vegetable crops and their resistance to diseases.

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A good harvest of vegetables, berries and fruits can only be obtained if fertilizers are applied. Different species have different requirements for the content of nitrogen, calcium, potassium and phosphorus in the soil. How to fertilize the land in the spring, if there is no manure, depends on what was brought in in the fall. In addition, you need to take into account the climate, soil composition and crop characteristics.

Optimal timing of application

It is necessary to enrich the earth with mineral and organic substances in spring and autumn, as well as during the growing season. After the snow melts, it is recommended to add superphosphate and rotted manure, because at the initial stages of development, plants especially need nitrogen and phosphorus. If these fertilizers are not available, they can be replaced by others with a similar composition.

It is important that at the time of feeding in the garden there is no snow and water left.. In the middle lane, the soil is ready for spring cultivation in the second half of April. If you use fertilizers earlier, there is a chance that they will be washed off with water. More precise terms depend on the types of plants under which the substances are applied. The soil under the trees is fertilized a little earlier, and the beds where vegetable seeds will be sown later.

Fertilizer for seedlings is applied immediately before planting or a day before. In both cases, the substance is first mixed with the earth.

Manure Replacement Options

If you apply more fertilizer than necessary, this will negatively affect the growth and development of plants, as well as their resistance to diseases and pests. Another factor that reduces yields is the lack of one of the important components.

Mullein is considered a valuable organic fertilizer, but it is not always possible to get it. Here are some fertilizers to be applied in the spring if there is no manure:

• sawdust;
• ash;
• wheat, rye, barley, pea straw;
• riding peat;
• chicken, rabbit or goat droppings.

When choosing how to fertilize the land in the spring, if there is no manure, it is recommended to take soil samples for analysis to a local laboratory. This will help determine how many and what elements you need. When introducing sawdust, you need to take into account that they slightly increase the acidity of the soil, so it is better to mix them with ash. This also applies to high peat. It is better to enrich sandy and sandy loamy soil with rotted compost or peat, and straw and chaff are more suitable for clay and loamy soil. Half-ripe leaves can also be used - almost everyone has this fertilizer in the spring in the country.

Before you fertilize the ground in the spring, the garden does not need to be loosened.

This is done at the same time as feeding. A little river sand can be added to dense soil. Sawdust is introduced into such soil in a small amount. Chicken manure must be scattered not in its pure form, but after crushing and mixing with the ground so that it dissolves faster, otherwise the root system may get burned.

The use of minerals

To form a rich harvest, organic matter alone is not enough. Mineral fertilizers for the garden contain not only the main nutrients, but also many trace elements, so you can’t do without them. Each element performs its functions.

Phosphorus is important for the rapid growth and development of crops. With its deficiency, fewer flower buds are laid and few ovaries are formed. Nitrogen fertilizers are necessary for the growth of underground and aboveground parts, especially leaves, thanks to which plants receive oxygen and evaporate moisture.

Boron is involved in carbohydrate metabolism and increases the absorption of calcium, iron is responsible for the processes of photosynthesis and respiration. Cobalt promotes rapid growth, and copper is part of enzymes and chloroplasts. During the period of fruit ripening, the plant needs to be fed with potash fertilizers.

Thus, all substances are very important.

Top dressing with complex fertilizers

Nutrient mixtures containing not only basic minerals, but also trace elements are sold in specialized stores for gardeners and gardeners. They are universal, that is, they enrich the soil with several substances at once. However, when buying, you should study the information on the package. Complex fertilizers are not always intended for all crops, on the contrary, more often the dosages are selected based on the requirements of one or more species.

For example, universal fertilizers are produced for violets, cabbage, onions, stone fruit and pome crops. In addition, it is necessary to pay attention to the composition, because the products may be designed to compensate for the deficiency of certain elements if there are too few of them in the soil.

Important Tip: you should not purchase complex fertilizers from foreign manufacturers if there is no instruction in the correct Russian language.

Often, sellers give out one for the other, and as a result of feeding, crops may suffer.

We are publishing two more chapters from the book by Pavel Trannua "Encyclopedia of a fruitful garden on a reasonable basis" (of course, with the permission of the author).

Chlorine

Curious element. We study it at school as a poisonous gas, but it is present in every living being!

Probably, from the fact that all plants came out of sea water, they still contain a share of chlorine, about 0.1% (0.2% in animal meat, or twice as much).

The soil more than covers the needs of plants when the usual circulation of substances takes place in it with the participation of animals and their droppings.

Manure contains the prescribed proportion of chlorine, like ash.

But people who abuse salty foods, eating a matchbox of table salt a day as part of various sauces, cheese, cookies, are able to poison plants with chlorine through fecal compost.

Just count: a person produces about a liter of urine a day, and a box of salt is dissolved in it (chlorine is excreted from the body mainly with urine)!

So, you see, there is a pack of salt in the compost, then the second ... The first to suffer are crops that tolerate high chlorine content worst of all, among garden plants it is potatoes.

Fecal compost is applied to the beds only in autumn, so that chlorine is washed out with melt water, and at the same time it should be dug in as evenly as possible.

The chlorine ion is negatively charged, therefore it is poorly retained by clay soil and is strongly washed out by rains. For this reason, with a flushing water regime, the soil can rather quickly be freed from excessive amounts of chlorine introduced with fertilizers. With sodium, things are more complicated.

Fertilize in spring or fall?

With experience, you confidently conclude that in all respects it is preferable to fertilize in the fall.

There is, perhaps, not a single serious reason in favor of spring fertilizer, except for the “human factor”: the intractable habit of doing everything at the last second.

Soluble nitrogen will be washed out by melt water, you will say again.

The studies and calculations of farmers have already found out everything for a long time: the PPK retains almost everything from the applied nitrogen and potassium fertilizers.

On clayey, well-humused soil, about 10% of the introduced nitrogen is washed out by melt water, and 90% remains. No more than 30% is washed out on the sand, and 70% of the applied fertilizer remains.

And this is in areas with a leaching water regime, on black soil there are even less winter losses, it is generally strange to hear horror stories about some kind of nitrogen leaching there.

If we talk about cultivated garden soils, where limestone or ash (a source of calcium), compost or manure (organic matter, a source of humus) were added, then on most loamy soils of the Middle Strip - soddy-podzolic, gray forest, floodplain - we can take the average losses from winter-spring leaching of fertilizers applied in autumn, no more than 10-15%. On sandy soils - no more than 15-25%. Well, on almost clean sands, podzols, manure or carbamide introduced will lose about 30% of nitrogen.

No matter how clean your sand may seem, it still has a “dregs”, a clay part, which is revealed when it is shaken in a jar of water. This turbidity also retains nitrogen.

She also nourishes the plants planted there with everything necessary. A little fertility, but there is. And it must be raised, and not be afraid to fertilize.

In horticulture, floriculture, and even more so in fruit growing, professionals take these relatively small losses for the sake of an incomparably greater gain from autumn fertilizer.

An experienced grower knows how unpredictable seeding can be from freshly applied fertilizer. Sometimes the fertilizer introduced just before planting turns out to be so “caustic” (by-products in high concentrations) that it undermines the power of sowing.

The behavior of plants on freshly fertilized soil is unpredictable: sometimes they stick, and sometimes they don’t like something.

Fertilizer that has settled down, “calmed down” in the soil, is much more reliable.

In such cases, they say “the fertilizer has been assimilated by the soil” - it has not disappeared, but stabilized in it, its beneficial substance has become part of the soil colloids: now it does not burn the roots, it cannot cause poisoning of the plant by quickly drawing in too large a dose.

In crop production, there is no need to rush. Plants are accustomed to a very slow life, and you should adapt to it.

What else benefits from early fertilization apart from reliability? What about you, not enough?

Reliability is already a very big win. It, like a premium on an insurance policy, already covers small losses in the early spring washout: do not forget that crop production is a very unpredictable and risky business for those who neglect calculated steps.

Reliability in crop production is expensive. And there are additional rewards.

Let's list them:

• during autumn application, a possible excess of chlorine is washed out of fertilizers (toilet waste is in the first place here: if they are used as a “guarantor of maintaining the predominance of nitrogen in the ratio N: P: K in the soil”, which is very important, then they should be introduced mainly in the pre-spring period);
• the land fertilized since autumn allows for extremely early sowing immediately after snowmelt, without digging, of the following crops: black onions, lettuce, celery, parsley, carrots and beets - all this under a film: in early April, the earth is wet and does not dig, it inconvenient to mix with fertilizers; if desired, such land can be sown in the March thaws;
• a number of vegetable crops - cabbage: white cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kohlrabi and with them ordinary turnips are planted with seedlings under caps or under lutrasil tunnels as early as possible, in April, in order to be in time before cruciferous flea attacks, in wet ground, fully prepared in advance since autumn;
• in low damp places, potato tubers are planted by laying out along the surface along a line (without holes) with immediate hilling with a chopper - this method, if used, is also used, then on the soil fully prepared in advance from autumn; for potatoes, the abundance of moisture in the soil is very important during the beginning of the germination of tubers;
• during autumn digging, the land in the spring during crops is much cleaner from weeds than if it is not touched in autumn: it happens that in May people dig up a thick green carpet, sowing something on such beds is obviously getting a weak harvest;
• in the spring, it’s generally more pleasant to work in the garden, when your land is at least in the garden, at least in most of the beds is already completely ready (after all, there are so many things to do on the site!) - and now you just need to “come up and stick a few onion bulbs on the greens from the edge ". How it makes life on the estate easier when you don't have to hurry forever;
• all root crops and potatoes need organics that have fully matured as much as possible: if decomposed compost or manure humus is given under them, then it is still better to do this in the fall, thoroughly mixing with the soil in order to “soften” the organics even more;
• garlic should immediately take root in October in fertilized soil, the start is very important for all crops, garlic should immediately “feel the roots of an abundant environment”, so it is too late to fertilize it in the spring; therefore, so that the soil has time to settle, the garlic bed is fertilized even earlier, from summer;
• simultaneously with organic fertilizers, limestone materials are also brought in for digging (so as not to dig once again), and they are brought in only in the fall.

The list shows how many vegetable crops actually require advance soil preparation from the fall.

These are early starter crops, where their cold hardiness allows much better use of precious soil moisture.

It is advisable to sow and plant them before the May holidays. Many gardeners can only start with a shovel to the ground in May, when it is already too dry and becomes even drier before our eyes every day.

There remains a very small group of heat-loving crops of open ground: cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, sunflower, corn, beans - they are all “rowed”, i.e. they are very easy to protect from weeds with a chopper, they all love an abundance of nitrogen, under them everything is possible slowly continue to fertilize all spring until mid-May (manure or waste
toilet), leaving 1-2 weeks before planting for the absorption of fertilizer: this is enough for them.

But even under them, the seat can be fertilized in the fall.

When the land as a whole has been fertilized since autumn, then in the spring nothing prevents us from adding something “forgotten” to it for loosening.

Autumn is a loose concept. Someone will decide that it means the time before winter itself. No, the earlier you start fertilizing, the better for the absorption of fertilizers and self-purification of the soil. It is wiser, after all, not to fertilize the entire garden at once, but as the beds are released, back in August, and to carry out the main work in September. This is real, because onions and garlic are harvested early, potatoes - also in August, cucumbers and pumpkins - in the first half of September ... Well, cabbage and root crops remain until frost, there's nothing to be done.

Book in the Labyrinth

Pavel Trannua's book "Encyclopedia of a fruitful garden on reasonable soil" can be purchased at the Labyrinth online store, you can also look at spreads and reviews of it there.

With the advent of autumn, summer cottage chores do not end, the time comes when you need to take care of the working land and return to her what she gave you with a plentiful and tasty harvest. The soil needs to be fertilized and the structure restored, and for this you need to make a variety of organic and mineral supplements in order to lay the foundation for the future successful growth and fruiting of garden and garden plantings.

Nourish the earth with organic matter

Autumn top dressing has two goals - replenishment of lost nutrients and improvement of air and water permeability of the soil. Autumn is the best time to restore the acid-alkaline balance and lighten heavy clay soils.

Used for centuries, manure has become expensive now, in addition, it has two significant drawbacks - it is full of weed seeds and pathogenic microorganisms are present, which in the spring can become a source of diseases for cultural plantings.

Manure is replaced with other organic matter - humus, compost, wood ash. Organic fertilizers take a long time to decompose. It takes several months for the earth to receive the necessary substances. Therefore, it is advisable to make them in the fall, so that in spring the soil is saturated with everything necessary for the full growth of young shoots.

Before winter, it is important not to saturate the ground with nitrogen, especially beds with perennials. Otherwise, the growth of new shoots will begin, which will not have time to get stronger before the onset of frost, will be damaged and become easy prey for a bacterial and fungal infection. Organic fertilizers are applied after harvesting and complete cleaning of the beds from weeds. Dates - the end of August and September.

Humus is a mixture of rotted manure and plant residues. Due to the fact that humus consists of elastic microparticles, it loosens the soil well, allowing oxygen and moisture to freely penetrate to the roots of plants. Humic acids contained in humus increase soil fertility, and fulvic acids are needed for the formation of mineral salts in a form accessible to plants. The humus nourishes the root system of plants and serves as food for beneficial soil bacteria.

Humus is a rotted homogeneous mass, which is outwardly similar to the soil surface.

Humus fertilize areas where potatoes, root crops, tomatoes, cucumbers will be planted in the spring. First, it is evenly distributed throughout the site at the rate of 1 bucket (6 kg) per 1 sq. m, and then dug up.

Under fruit trees and shrubs, humus is laid out along the near-trunk circle, departing from the trunk 15–20 cm, at the rate of 300 g per 1 sq. m. It is better to dig it a little (no more than 2-3 cm). Then, with precipitation, solutions of nutrient salts will penetrate to the roots. In addition, a layer of humus will warm the roots in winter. Fertilizer is produced after leaf fall and harvesting of fallen leaves.

Compost is the safest and most affordable type of organic fertilizer. What has accumulated in the compost pit over the summer will finally rot over the winter, and in the spring it will become an excellent top dressing for young plants. The first way is to bring it in during digging. You can use compost in other ways. Having prepared the beds for winter, lay out the plucked weeds on their surface, and on top of them - a layer of compost. Pour EM preparations on top, for example, Baikal. By spring, effective microorganisms will turn the layer into a mixture of useful compounds that are easily available for absorption by plants. Around fruit trees and shrubs, the ground is mulched with compost. Expenses for digging and mulching - 1-2 buckets per 1 sq. m.

The easiest way to use compost in the country is to distribute it over the entire usable area of ​​​​the garden in a continuous layer, followed by plowing the land

It is difficult to overestimate the benefits of wood ash for the soil. It reduces the acidity of the soil, promotes the transfer of nutrients into a form easily accessible to plants, suppresses pathogenic microflora and protects against pests. Ash contains potassium, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, sulfur and other minerals. In autumn, it is applied in the form of a solution prepared a week before use at the rate of 300 g per 10 liters of water. In dry form, the ashes are scattered on the beds at the rate of 1 glass per 1 sq.m of land. Best of all, wood ash acts on clay soil, increasing its permeability.

bird droppings

Bird droppings serve as a full-fledged replacement for manure. This is a "long-playing" fertilizer, and it must be applied once every three years. Overripe bird droppings are sold in any specialized store.

The use of chicken manure improves the condition of the soil, its chemical composition, promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria

Application rates:

• for green, berry crops, onions, garlic and root crops - 2 kg per 1 sq. m when digging beds;
• for the rest, a little more - 3 kg per 1 sq. m.

Bone meal is a universal fertilizer suitable for all types of suburban plantings. It is an excellent natural source of calcium and phosphorus.

The largest percentage of phosphorus (35%) is found in defatted concentrated bone meal.

For garden crops, bone meal is applied annually; fruit trees and berry bushes are fertilized once every three years.

The amount of powder is calculated based on the type of flour. It can be ordinary, mechanically obtained, fat-free and steamed. Each of them has its own concentration, so you need to be guided by the manufacturer's instructions.

Fishmeal is more suitable for nightshade (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants) in terms of chemical composition. It is better to bring it under digging. Keep in mind that bone meal is not suitable for alkaline and neutral soils, as it deoxidizes the soil and can lead to a strong alkalization of the earth.

siderates

Green manure is another type of organic fertilizer that is popular with gardeners. Sideration allows you to solve several problems:

• prevent erosion, winter freezing and spring drying of the soil;
• provide nutrition to soil microflora;
• form a fertile layer;
• loosen the soil.

For sowing before winter, green manure plants with powerful roots are chosen so that they loosen the soil more efficiently. Planting green manure in the fall for three years in a row enriches the soil no less effectively than manure. In cool regions, sowing should be done in August. Grass grown up to 20-30 cm should go under the snow. It can be mowed, planted in the soil, mulched in beds, or left to grow. Under the snow, it will lie down and, like sloping green manure, forms a nutritious and warming layer for the soil.

Green manures work for 6 months and during this time they manage to loosen clay soils and loams, nourish sandy soils

It is important to remember that cruciferous green manure plants (mustard, rapeseed, radish) are not planted where cabbage (any species), radish, spinach, leaf lettuce has grown before or will grow next year. They have the same diseases, and your vegetable crops can also become infected through green manure.

Table: types and benefits of green manure

Mineral fertilizers

Autumn top dressing necessarily includes mineral fertilizers. They will not allow perennial plants to freeze, they will help to gain strength for the next season, and the depleted soil, which has given up its resources, will restore the required chemical composition. Autumn mineral dressings are applied to warm soil before the onset of the first frost. As a rule, fertilizer is produced in late August or early September.

It is better to purchase mineral fertilizers for autumn use in specialized stores, where they are already selected for their intended purpose.

It is best to use complex fertilizers produced industrially. Usually, the mixtures are already selected in accordance with the purpose - for fruit trees, berry crops, perennials, and so on. They contain potassium, calcium, phosphorus and nitrogen in the right proportions. Packages are labeled "autumn" or "for autumn use".

Phosphate fertilizers

Phosphate fertilizers applied since autumn will reduce the acidity of the soil, accelerate the emergence and growth of new shoots in the spring, and increase the plant's defenses. It is especially necessary for perennials to strengthen and maintain the health of the root system. Most often, superphosphate, phosphate rock and potassium metaphosphate are used. The most popular fertilizer among gardeners is superphosphate. To increase efficiency, it is recommended to apply it together with humus or compost. For autumn digging, you will need 40–50 g of dry simple superphosphate per 1 sq. m. Double superphosphate is introduced half as much. Fertilizer is scattered on the bed and embedded in the soil.

Superphosphate contains monocalcium phosphate, phosphoric acid, magnesium and sulfur.

potash fertilizers

Plants need potassium to maintain water balance, accumulate sugars in fruits, strengthen disease resistance and increase frost resistance. The latter property makes the autumn application of potash fertilizers necessary for perennial plants.

Table: types of potash fertilizers

Potash fertilizers, like phosphate fertilizers, are applied for digging.

Video: what fertilizers to apply to the soil in the fall

Take care of the earth, fertilize it, do not leave it “naked” for the winter. And she will repay you with a plentiful harvest of delicious berries, fruits and vegetables.

In the spring, one of the main tasks is to fertilize the soil. What fertilizers to choose for this and how to fertilize the land in the spring in the country, if there is no manure? This will be discussed in this article.

Often green manure is increasingly used as a fertilizer in garden plots. Siderates are plants that are sown and then plowed into the ground, thereby improving its composition. The following crops are used as green manure crops:

• buckwheat;
• wheat
• oats;
• lupine;
• mustard and some other plants.

When sowing plants for fertilizer, those of them are selected that have well-developed roots and a large amount of vegetative mass. Such plants should have a short growth period, which is why they are planted as green manure. . What plants to plant to improve the soil depends on its condition. Grain crops planted as fertilizer are equal in productivity to horse or cow manure.

Green manure is often used as a fertilizer in garden plots.

The root system of such plantings is well branched, it loosens the soil, while enriching it with oxygen., the structure of the soil is improved, the upper layer of the earth is healed. In the process of growing such plantations, the soil is more saturated with moisture, its acidity decreases, and the soil is disinfected. And the soil retains these positive qualities for several years after growing green manure on it.

Legumes planted on the site saturate the soil with nitrogen and phosphorus. These elements contribute to the rapid growth of the vegetative mass of garden crops and fruit trees. And rye is a supplier of potassium to the soil. Rye grows very fast, so it can be used as a green manure not only in the autumn, but also in the spring, immediately after the snow melts. Marigolds or marigolds should be used to disinfect the area. In order to more successfully fight the Colorado potato beetle on the site, you should regularly use parsnips or alfalfa as green manure.

When choosing what to plant on the site to improve the composition of the soil, it should be remembered that vegetable crops grow better after certain plants. Rye promotes better growth of potatoes, tomatoes or cucumbers.

In spring, plants like green manure are usually planted in near-stem circles of fruit trees. These plantings throughout the season will improve the soil with minerals and nitrogen, will not allow weeds to grow and multiply, and at the time of flowering of fruit trees, these plants will attract flying insects and thereby improve the pollination of trees.

Organic fertilizers for summer cottages (video)

Fertilizing the land with manure in spring

In the spring, fresh manure is not introduced into the soil, because it can burn the root system of planted vegetable plants. Therefore, rotted horse manure or mullein is usually used as top dressing in the spring. Usually, manure is harvested during the summer and autumn, and brought into the ground only in early spring. This organic fertilizer saturates the soil with nitrogen, which is essential for cultivated plants during the growth period - this microelement accelerates the growth of shoots and vegetative mass. In addition to nitrogen, manure contains other macro and microelements necessary for the full development of cultivated plants in the garden.

Usually, manure should be applied to the soil immediately after the snow has melted. Usually, this organic fertilizer is spread over the area just before digging the soil after the ground has warmed up sufficiently after winter. However, when organic fertilizers are applied should be remembered that their excess is also harmful to plants, as well as the shortage. 10 kg of manure is applied per 1 m 2 of soil - this amount of this organic fertilizer is quite enough to saturate the soil with useful substances.

As top dressing of the soil in the spring, rotted horse manure or mullein is usually used.

If there is not too much manure to fertilize the entire garden with it, then this rotted organic fertilizer is applied directly to the planting holes.

Slurry can also be used as top dressing in the spring. It is prepared as follows: rotted manure is diluted with liquid (5 liters of water are taken per 1 kilogram of manure). Such fruit trees and planted vegetable plants are fertilized with liquid top dressing in spring. Berry bushes, strawberries, apple trees, pears, stone fruit trees are especially responsive to such top dressing.

The introduction of rotted manure improves the composition of the soil, so it is also used as mulch. The introduction of this organic fertilizer helps plants absorb the applied mineral fertilizers faster and better. Therefore, experienced gardeners bring manure into the soil during the spring.

When there was no rotted manure in the spring, it can be replaced with wood ash

How to fertilize the land if there is no manure

When there was no rotted manure in the spring, it can be replaced with other organic matter. It can be:

• chicken manure;
• riding peat;
• rotted compost mass;
• sawdust from trees;
• straw;
• wood ash and other similar fertilizers.

These top dressings, when introduced into the soil, contribute to its loosening, enrich the depleted soil with the necessary macro and microelements, help build up the vegetative mass and develop all cultivated plants on the site.

How to apply mineral fertilizers (video)

When and how to feed the earth in spring with mineral fertilizers

In addition to organics, mineral additives should also be added in the spring. Gardeners select the composition of such fertilizers, taking into account the general condition of the soil, the crops that will be planted in specific areas, and many other factors.

The term for applying mineral dressings in the spring depends on when the snow melts in the garden. It is not worth scattering such dressings on the snow that has not melted.- most of the fertilizer can "float away" with the melt water. Mineral fertilizers can be applied to tree trunks even when the earth has not completely thawed. But under the planted vegetable crops, mineral supplements are poured directly prepared holes.

The term for applying mineral dressings in the spring depends on when the snow melts in the garden.

In the spring, the following mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil:

1. Containing nitrogen (ammonium nitrate, urea, ammonium sulfate). These top dressings accelerate the gaining of vegetative mass by plants, stimulate the growth of the root system, and contribute to obtaining high yields.
2. Fertilizers containing phosphorus (superphosphates and double superphosphates) are also very important for plants in the spring. After all, these trace elements stimulate the growth of plants, as well as their development. The rate of application of such fertilizers is considered to be 1 glass per 1 m2.

When using mineral fertilizers as spring dressings, it is necessary to strictly adhere to all instructions for the use of these additives, as well as the doses required for application to the soil. This takes into account the types of soil in which fertilizers are applied, and those plants that need to be fed.

The main disadvantage when applying mineral dressings in the spring is their possible leaching from the soil during the spring rains.

When using mineral fertilizers as spring dressings, it is necessary to strictly adhere to all instructions for the use of these additives.

Features of the application of nitrogen fertilizers

When applying nitrogen fertilizers, the following features should be considered:

1. Nitrogen contributes to the growth of the vegetative mass, the rapid growth of shoots and the root system, therefore, it is applied under any plants and trees at a certain period - in spring and early summer - when these cultivated plants are actively growing. But during the period of flowering, fruiting and subsequent preparation for winter, nitrogen should not be applied so as not to provoke excessive foliage growth in trees and shrubs to the detriment of a ripening crop.
2. The amount of nitrogen in the soil should be sufficient for plants, but its excess is harmful. Therefore, you should not get carried away with the introduction of organic fertilizers (especially mullein or other types of manure) and adhere to certain standards when applying such fertilizers.

Nitrogen contributes to the growth of the vegetative mass, the rapid growth of shoots and the root system

Universal fertilizers for horticultural and horticultural crops

On sale there are a large number of complex fertilizers, which contain all the necessary mineral elements and other nutrients needed by plants. The introduction of such complex dressings allows you to immediately introduce into the soil all the elements that are needed. And the composition of such fertilizers can be different- depending on the type of soil and the characteristics of the growth of cultivated plants grown on the site.

When using these dressings, you must follow the instructions for their use and in no case reduce or increase the dosage unnecessarily.