The construction of complex variants of furnace structures is a painstaking process that requires great patience, knowledge, skills and financial costs. Therefore, if funds are available, it is recommended to use the help of professionals. And those who want to build a furnace with their own hands should study the advice of experts on choosing a competent project and high-quality equipment.
Performing accurate calculations and strict adherence to the laying scheme will allow you to get a reliable thermal unit and, with its further use, will provide protection against ignition and poisoning carbon monoxide. Therefore, any furnace must meet the basic requirements - do not smoke, supply heat and guarantee fire safety. For beginners for construction, it is better to choose simple model devices to independently carry out high-quality laying of the furnace.
Construction tools and equipment
For installation work are used:
- acute-angled and rectangular sledgehammers;
- plumb;
- brackets (mooring);
- combined trowel;
- a hammer;
- rammers;
- putty knife;
- level, square and tape measure;
- meter (folding);
- seam liners, markings for openings, templates for channels;
- brick and clay (red);
- cement;
- sand;
- grate;
- doors, stove (cast iron) and latches;
- aluminum and steel fittings (corners and strips).
Procedure
1. First stage.
To verify the accuracy of the calculations, first lay the masonry according to the finished scheme of the unit, but without using the mixture. The furnace is mounted on a foundation that meets all the rules technical security. To do this, they dig a pit (depth 1 m), where sand is poured (layer 11 cm), and concrete is loaded from above. After that, on the hardened surface, following the instructions, a quadrangle of bricks is placed, which will serve as the basis for the furnace. Using the level, check the horizontal masonry. A couple of bricks are moistened with water so that they are easier to bond with the mortar, they are placed on the mixture and pressed down (slightly), and its excess is removed with a spatula and the further construction process is continued according to the same principle.
A roofing material (triple layer) is laid on the first level, which performs a waterproofing function. Before performing the 2nd row, a blower door for the oven, wrapped in wet asbestos cardboard, is attached with special brackets. The third level should be fireclay bricks, here a grate is placed above the blower. The laying of building material on the 4th tier takes place on the edge. A chimney is built inside the furnace. On the back surface of the device, the masonry is made without a mixture so that its edges protrude slightly from the main row, which will facilitate the cleaning of the smoke passage hole from debris.
The firebox door is wrapped with an asbestos cord and fixed on the 5th tier with bricks (temporarily) and wire. The material at this level of masonry, as in the main part of the furnace, is located flat (along the contour of the previous layer). The edges of the sixth row of the device are hewn, the grate is fixed flush, and the bricks are placed on the edge. It is recommended to wipe the chimney with a damp cloth. Brick (at level 7) is laid out flat, and on the back wall of the furnace a couple of pieces are attached to the edge. The furnace door is covered with the eighth tier of masonry.
2. Second stage.
Further, work on the furnace continues according to the finished scheme until the beginning of the twelfth row. On this tier, a cast-iron slab is mounted on the mortar (with a slight shift back), and an asbestos cord runs along the perimeter of the masonry, which is covered with corners from above. The pans are supported by strips of steel inserted into the walls of the cooking chamber and strengthened from the fourteenth row, through the next 2, to the twentieth. On this tier are placed: a corner, a frame and an exhaust duct made of sheet metal. Before installing the chimney, the gap between its lining and the ceiling is filled with asbestos.
3. The third stage.
After making the thermal unit with your own hands, the chimney is cleaned, temporary bricks are removed and the Painting works. The oven surface is dried before plastering and lime whitewashing. A mixture of clay, asbestos, sand and cement is used as a coating. First, according to the instructions, outside masonry apply a liquid layer of the composition, and after it dries - more dense. Whitewash the stove with lime mortar and salt. Drying oil or oil dyes are not suitable for coating masonry, since when heated they emit vapors that are harmful to health.
1. When building a furnace with your own hands, strong and properly fired bricks should be used, with a smooth surface and without various damages, since its functioning and duration of use will depend on their quality. The strength of this material is determined independently. To do this, using a hammer, you need to break one brick, if it breaks up into large pieces, then it is suitable for use in the masonry process. In the area where the fire is made, a refractory type is used that can withstand strong heat.
2. The reliability of the furnace design depends on optimal ratio sand and clay in solution. A composition with a plastic and thick consistency is considered to be of high quality.
3. The thickness of the seams - from 3 to 5 mm.
4. Pre-prepared recesses in the bricks, designed to install the grate, dampers and doors, provide the latter with a longer operation. The depth of the grooves must correspond to the thickness of the casting.
5. Bricks on the tiers of masonry are placed as close as possible to each other. During the construction of the furnace, the procedure is constantly checked against finished scheme device, which allows you to control its exact observance.
6. The gap between the masonry and the floor is hidden by installing an iron pre-furnace sheet or a plinth. To protect the corners of the structure from possible damage, it is advised to attach to the frames protective devices(using bolts).
7. It is permissible to start operation 14 days after completion of installation work. Hardening of the unit is recommended to start with the burning of thin chips to prevent cracking. After the end of the furnace process, following the operating instructions, the chimney is closed with the help of valves.
Cost of materials and labor
Self-construction of the furnace is much cheaper compared to the services of a skilled worker. The minimum price for the work of the master starts from 25,000 rubles and is negotiated individually at the conclusion of the contract. Payment for work and the cost of masonry for different kinds furnaces are determined taking into account their volume, design features and location in the house. The purchase price of the building material and its quantity required for the construction of the selected type of structure, design and color solution are the main indicators in determining the final payment. An important role is played by the types of cladding. Finishing with tiles costs 1200–2500 rubles per 1 m2 (excluding the amount for masonry equipment).
Average cost of building supplies:
The cost of a brick varies from 20 to 150 rubles per piece. The difference in prices is also present when buying castings and other masonry materials. If the firebox door Russian production costs 400 rubles, then imported - 4,000. One bag of ready-made mixture for building a furnace (consumption for 35 bricks) - 400. The estimated price of masonry is determined only after careful study future design taking all measurements.
During the construction of the stove, it may be necessary to purchase additional equipment. The cost calculation also takes into account the cost of delivery and unloading of masonry materials, which is assigned by carriers.
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Comfort country house, built far from gas supply networks, is unthinkable without a stove. In the cold season, it gives us pleasant warmth, ridding the air of dampness.
The market today offers customers all kinds of metal "bourgeois" designs. Despite this, many summer residents prefer classic version- a heating stove made of bricks. Its advantages are obvious: due to its large weight, it accumulates a lot of heat and gives it away for a long time, warming up the room well.
The service life of a brick structure significantly exceeds the resource of a metal one. Minimum costs materials and simplicity of arrangement attract the attention of home craftsmen to a simple stove for giving.
Our article will help you test yourself as a stove-maker. In it, we will consider several options for simple wood stoves and give practical advice by their laying.
You will see that there is nothing complicated in the drawings of these structures. Having learned to read “orders” - brick layout schemes, you can build a full-fledged heat-generating device with your own hands.
How to fold the simplest brick oven?
First you need to decide what you want to get from the future stove. If you only need to heat rooms, and you use bottled gas or electricity for cooking, then choose the option without a stove and oven. Anyone who loves soft healing warmth chooses the option with a couch.
For regular heat treatment a large number products and pet food, a simple oven with a hob will be just right.
We will consider three examples of ovens with step by step guide according to their laying:
- Simple straight-through;
- FROM hob;
- Heating.
Let's say right away that it is impossible to expect high heat transfer from a simple design, devoid of gas revolutions. For this reason, such stoves are placed in garages and other small spaces with an area not exceeding 16 m2.
We will consider this option so that beginners get the first simple lesson in practical masonry.
Straight-through heating structure designed to heat a small room
Under such a stove does not need a strong foundation. Having poured out large gravel with a layer of 15-20 cm, filling it cement mortar and having leveled the surface, after a couple of days you can start laying.
The dimensions of the furnace in terms of: width 2 bricks (51 cm), depth 2.5 bricks (64 cm). Since there is no blower chamber in it, holes for air intake are drilled directly in the furnace door.
The sixth row covers the combustion chamber door. The top view helps to better understand the way the bricks are laid out.
The orders of such a design are simple. The main condition during work is to observe the dressing of the seams so that the upper brick closes the seam between the two lower ones.
On the eighth row, the firebox is narrowed, using halves and “three-quarters” for this - ¾ of the whole brick. The exit from the furnace is thus obtained with a section of 1 brick (125x250 mm).
The next row (ninth) is laid out in the same way as the seventh, using a whole brick.
After that, the brick tier is placed on the edge flush with the inner edge of the bottom row. The new tier is laid flat, using two whole bricks and four three-quarters. In this way, the smoke channel is again narrowed in order to trap gases and increase heat transfer.
On the next tier, the stones are placed on the edge. A brick is placed in the middle of the smoke channel. In this way, the stove is raised another five rows (one tier on the edge and a brick in the middle, the other tier flat).
The remaining four tiers are laid flat. With the last two rows of masonry, the smoke channel is narrowed to a size of 12x12 cm (half a brick). At this level, a smoke damper is placed in the furnace. A steel pipe is inserted into it from above.
Stove with hob
In the very simple version this design has small dimensions (width 2, and depth 3 bricks - 78x53 cm). However, even in such a limited area, it is possible to place a single-burner stove.
Work goes smoothly when everything you need is at hand.
So buy early the following materials and accessories:
- Solid red brick - 107 pcs;
- Blower door - 1 pc;
- Grate - 1 piece;
- Single-burner cast-iron stove - 1 pc;
- Furnace door - 1 pc;
- Pipe valve - 1 pc.
Refractory bricks are not needed for a wood-burning stove. Buying it is a waste of money. But red should be chosen carefully, rejecting cracked and uneven.
Solution preparation
The masonry mixture is made by mixing four parts of clay with one part of water and adding eight parts of sifted sand to them. The normal consistency is determined simply: the solution easily slides off the trowel, leaving no streaks on it. When laying, it should not flow out of the seams.
The volume of the solution is determined, focusing on the number of bricks. At optimal thickness seam (3-5 mm) one bucket is enough for 50 pieces.
Having prepared masonry mix, you can start laying the foundation. Its width is made 10 cm more than the width of the furnace. The height of the foundation is chosen so that the bottom of the first row of bricks is at floor level.
Approximate prototype of the stove
If the underground is deep enough (50-60 cm), then it is not necessary to dig a hole under the foundation. It is enough to make a formwork on the ground with a size in terms of 76 x (51 + 10 cm). Two layers of roofing material are laid on its bottom to protect it from moisture. After laying the concrete, he is given a week to gain strength and then proceed to masonry.
The dimensions of the stove we are considering with a hob are 3 x 1.5 bricks (76x39 cm).
Master's advice: lay out each new tier of brick without mortar (dry). After adjusting the bricks to size, you can start laying.
The first row is placed on a layer of clay mortar (4-5 mm). Having leveled the base, lay out the second one, leaving room for the blower door.
Before mounting the door, you need to screw a soft wire to it and lay its ends in the seams for better fixation.
There are four holes in the frame of the cast-iron door for the wire that serves to fix it in the masonry.
To compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal, a gap is left between the door and the brick. Before installation, its frame is wrapped with a wet asbestos cord.
The laying of the third row is carried out, overlapping the seams of the second. At this level in the firebox set grate.
Ordering scheme from 1 to 8 row
The fourth row is placed on the edge, observing the dressing of the seams, and the walls of the combustion chamber are formed. Behind it will be the first and only chimney (see section A-A on the scheme No. 2). To clean its bottom, a so-called knockout brick is placed in the back wall without mortar, periodically removed to remove ash. Inside the chimney, two supports are made from pieces of brick to support the internal partition.
The stones of the fifth row are placed flat, leaving room for the furnace door. In the back of the furnace, in order, we see the walls of two smoke channels. Their surface during operation must be thoroughly cleaned with a wet cloth from clay protruding from the seams. it important condition to ensure good traction.
Useful advice! Focusing on the ordering drawings, do not forget to look at the two sections of the stove. They will help you better imagine its design and not make mistakes when laying out bricks.
Ordering scheme from 9 to 11 row
Having raised it into the masonry up to the eighth row, they close the furnace door, laying a wire in the seams that fixes its frame. At the same level, a brick with a beveled end is placed in the back of the fuel chamber - a smoke tooth. It improves heat transfer by preventing the rapid exit of flue gases into the chimney.
Having finished the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid on it in a clay solution. It is necessary for sealing the joints of the cast-iron plate and brick. On the tenth row, the firebox is covered with a hob.
At the eleventh, a smoke damper is installed in the pipe. It is also sealed along the contour with an asbestos cord dipped in clay.
12th and 13th row - the formation of the walls of the pipe. After their completion, a light pipe made of sheet metal, displayed on the roof.
heating stove
And now let's see how to fold a brick oven with your own hands, designed to heat a small country house.
Approximate prototypes of the considered version of the heating stove for a country house
Its dimensions:
- width - 2 bricks (51 cm);
- depth - 3.5 bricks (90 cm);
- height - 2 meters 38 cm.
For construction, the following materials and accessories will be required:
- Red solid brick- 390 pcs;
- Clay - 9 buckets;
- Sand - 18 buckets;
- Grate (25x40 cm) - 1 pc;
- Furnace door(20x30 cm) - 1 pc;
- Blower door (14x20 cm) - 1 pc;
- Cleaning door (14x20 cm) - 1 pc;
- Gate valve -1 pc;
- Pre-furnace steel sheet (50x70 cm) - 1 pc;
- Roofing felt for waterproofing (100x60 cm) - 1 pc.
Sequence of work
The first row is the base of the oven. It should be laid out especially carefully, checking the horizontal position with a level.
corners are the most hard part for newbies. In order for them to be even, we recommend that you immediately install four template racks on the edges of the masonry. They can be made from planed boards, knocking them down in pairs at a right angle.
By installing such a “formwork” from floor to ceiling, you can easily derive ideal angles.
Homemade template for masonry corners
On the second row, from the end of the furnace, two bricks are laid with a beveled edge that goes into the ash chamber. The laying of the third row begins with the installation of a blower door, fixed with wire in the seams of the side bricks.
Sequence diagram from 1 to 10 and cross sections of the heating furnace
4 and 5 rows continue the formation of the walls of the ash chamber. In the sixth row, they begin laying the walls of the fuel chamber and put a grate in it.
At the level of 7 and 8 rows, a furnace door is mounted. Beveled bricks are placed in the back of the chamber, which serve to improve traction. The ninth row closes the firebox door.
From the 10th to the 16th row, the laying of the fuel chamber and the vertical chimney channel is underway. On the seventeenth, a cleaning door is placed in the oven.
18-30 rows form smoke circulation channels. They need to be laid out as evenly as possible, rubbing the inner walls with a wet rag.
31-32 rows form a vault that covers the furnace.
33 and 34 form a chimney.
After finishing the masonry, the oven is left for a week with the doors open and the pipe to dry. After that, they make a trial firebox, burning small portions of chips, branches or straw.
Brick ovens are natural heaters that do not require large material and labor costs. With good traction and full regulation of the air in the house, it will always be clean and warm. Installing a brick stove by professional bricklayers is expensive, so you can organize the process yourself.
Kiln laying projects allow you to assemble brick structures without the help of specialists. The Russian cooking and heating and Buslaev's stove (Swedish type) are very popular. The following is a detailed description of each type of structure.
A heating stove assembled according to the "Swede" type is considered the best option for a brick house. The scheme of its assembly is quite simple and reliable.
Correctly installed design will protect the house from the cold even in severe frosts.
What is needed for laying?
The assembly of brick ovens according to the Buslaev scheme differs from others ultimate precision. To make a quality brick heater, you will need the following materials:
- red brick - 550 pcs.;
- clay - 235 kg;
- sand - 115 kg;
- grate (252x300 mm) - 1 pc.;
- steel: corner (5x45x45x360 mm) and roofing (0.35 m2);
- nails - 1 kg;
- wire - 3 kg;
- view with a hole (d = 220 mm) - 1 pc.;
- view chamber door (140x215 mm) - 1 pc.;
- steam valve (140x180 mm) - 1 pc.
The design also includes large-sized elements - an oven, a cast-iron stove and doors. You will need 3 types of doors:
- furnace (280x300 mm);
- for the cooking chamber (520x390 mm);
- blower (140x140 mm).
Oven dimensions - 600x400x350 mm, stove - 965x560 mm (2 burners).
Features of the Swedish oven
Brick stoves, assembled according to the “Swede” type of Buslaev, heat up quickly and can retain heat even in a large room.
Brick ovens, designed according to this scheme, are heated exclusively in winter. A five-channel oven with one outlet will have dimensions of 1160x900x2100 mm.
Brick construction works equally well on different types solid fuel.
If you heat the stove at least 2 times a day, the heat transfer will be 4500 kcal / h.
Swedish styling technology
A brick stove for a house should be installed strictly on a waterproofing foundation. Buslaev's stove weighs more than 750 kg, so assemble it directly on concrete floor it is impossible: over time, the surface is deformed, which can lead to malfunctions of the furnace and even a fire. Therefore, the concrete foundation must be covered with a waterproofing material.
Brick kiln projects provide for penetration ground water into the lower layers of the foundation, which is why the brick will begin to dampen and eventually collapse. Therefore, it is better to protect the structure with roofing felt or roofing felt. Already immediately after the waterproofing work, marking and ordering begins.
First row
The first row is made with solid masonry, and the outer row is laid out only with solid bricks. It is very important to control their integrity and strength - this moment can play a decisive role in the operation of furnaces. You can also use halves inside - the main thing is that there are no thick gaps left, and tightness is preserved.
Second row
Similar brickwork, but this time it requires the installation of a blower door, which will be located under the firebox. The firebox is the space in the furnace where combustion takes place.
Third and fourth row
The third row is laid in half a brick with the obligatory preservation of openings for installing a blower and a cleaning department (120x120 mm). The fourth is going on the same principle.
But from this moment it is necessary to start forming a blower chamber with a size of 200x300 mm. Usually it is located in the left and rear of the oven.
Fifth row
At this level, you need to mount the grate. It is installed in special openings that are made in bricks. A temperature gap of 10 mm should be left along the perimeter of the grate and lowered to the grate within 20-30 degrees of inclination. Then the furnace door is mounted.
6th to 9th row
This is where the layout starts oven. Bricks are stacked on an edge over the entire area of the stove. Around the oven are fixed steel sheets for fire protection. From the seventh to the ninth row, an increase in the width of the channel is formed, which is laid at the back wall on the right. A clay mixture is laid on top of the oven. The oven and furnace door are fixed in the structure.
Tenth row
mounted hob and the channel widens with gradual rounding of the corners. With the help of a level, it is necessary to check that the cast-iron plate lies horizontally, without deviations.
The space between the stove and the wall of the stove is laid.
Eleventh row
Two brick walls are formed in a quarter, and their laying is carried out. This is where the cleaning and installation of the cooking chamber door takes place. With the help of a strong sheet of steel, beams for partitions of the flue are created. Channels 160x200 mm are formed from them.
Twelfth row
From strip and angle steel are erected support beams for a brick vault, after which it is created forced ventilation in the form of a channel 150x100 mm. Brick stoves are also formed here.
Brick is ground into a cone shape for narrowing ventilation duct, and a small stove must be covered with a steel sheet.
Thirteenth row
Outside the chimney (in front), cleaning is laid, and hinged partitions are installed. The masonry itself is carried out in half a brick, a valve and a cornice are mounted. At the same time, it is necessary to maintain indents of 30 mm on each side. Above the channels, the masonry is also ground into a cone.
Fourteenth row
The indents increase by another 30 mm, after which you can continue to form the cornice. Above a large stove must be installed metal corners and a strip that will block the small stove.
Russian stove also heats well big houses. The peculiarity of its design lies in the installation of a stove bench: there is no such element in ordinary brick ovens. Modern options stoves for the home are decorated with embossed tiles, a small fireplace is made inside.
What is needed for laying?
To build a furnace, you need to prepare:
- refractory bricks (smooth) - 1700 pcs.;
- cement mortar - approximately 80 buckets;
- clean fine sand clay mortar;
- a view with a half-door and a valve with a hole 26x24 cm.
Before installing brick ovens, it is important to check the correctness of the drawings, ordering, and the quality of the tools. The condition of the entire structure and the house will depend on this.
Construction technology
The Russian brick oven is laid out exclusively on a solid foundation. In this case, there are three options: brick, monolithic reinforced and rubble concrete. The foundation must be covered with roofing felt to protect it from the influence of groundwater and other moisture.
Management
As already mentioned, the heating furnace is built from refractory bricks. For perfect brick joints, you can cut each block three-quarters and set them in the corners of the masonry - this will ensure the correct dressing. On the second and third rows, walls are erected. The fourth level is laid only with solid bricks, and at the base the corners must be grinded off to make arched supports.
For big house you can make a wide arch. All brick construction going to wooden form. To do this, with the help of 20 bricks beveled at an angle, a vault of the furnace is built. The thickness of the side walls should be 1 brick, the front and back - 2 bricks. Next, the laying of the vault begins, the stove is assembled, the level of fireclay. At the corners of the bars into 1/2 and 3/4 parts. Between the walls it is necessary to fill up the sand and cover it with solid masonry.
On the next row, a hearth is collected and under the stove. It is advisable to fill the cavities between fireclay with fine sand. On the left side of the hearth, a recess for coals is made. After that, the cooking chamber and the hearth are mounted. Between the hearth and the crucible, a perforated steel arc is installed, into which copper wire. Subsequently, it is sunk into the solution.
Next, brick walls are built up, with the obligatory formation of a compartment for cleaning ash. A half-door is installed opposite the view. The chimney is constructed in identical rows of six bricks. After construction, the brick oven should dry out, and only then the finishing takes place.
Despite the numerous modern methods heating, the stove does not lose its popularity. It can still be found in many country houses to maintain comfort and create a favorable atmosphere.
However, the stove will serve for a long time and with high quality, giving off heat, only when answers to the following questions are received:
- Where is the best place to place the stove?
- What materials and tools are needed for work?
- What should be the solution for the furnace?
- How to properly lay the stove?
Where is the right place to place the oven?
When thinking about how to fold the oven with your own hands, you need to correctly place it. For this, the following conditions are taken into account:
- The walls of the smoke channel must be located from wooden structures at least 40 cm away
- The chimney can be removed at the same level as the ridge ledge if it is located at a distance of 1.5-3 m
- If the distance from the ridge ledge to chimney 1.5 m or less, the latter must be 0.5 m higher
- If the pipe is removed more than 3 m from the ridge ledge, its height can be made lower, but the angle between the roof slope and the lines that connect the upper cut of the pipe and the ridge should not exceed 10 degrees
Read also the guide on how to
The base of the house and the stove have their own specific features, so it is not permissible to combine them with each other.
Materials and tools
Regardless of the type of furnace chosen, the work on their construction is very similar, and the structures themselves have minor functional differences between themselves. On the technical side, they will differ in versatility, degree of return and size.
The initial building materials for the construction of brick kilns are:
- wire
- lime with sand
- brick
When purchasing the latter, you need to convince of its correct form and a sufficient level of firing.
To prepare the solution, you can use refractory, red or even ordinary clay. You will also need auxiliary equipment, which can be purchased in the markets:
- Required doors and shutters
- Views and latches
- grate
- Cookers with burners, etc.
In addition to materials and components for the stove, you will need to prepare a set of working tools (level, plumb line, milk brush, rule, stove hammer, level, etc.).
Preparing a mortar for laying the furnace
solution for home brick stove is a clay-sand mixture. Sand must be sifted through a sieve so that its mesh size does not exceed 1.5 mm. Clay at this time should be soaked in water for 2-3 days. It will not be superfluous to pass the finished solution through a sieve (3x3 mm). Each stove-maker chooses proportions for himself.
After mixing sand and clay, it is necessary to add water and begin to mix the resulting mixture until a density similar to fatty sour cream is formed. A high-quality mortar should be laid on a brick in a clot and smeared with a layer of 4-5 cm (recommended joint thickness).
Ordering a brick oven
When everything you need is collected, and the foundation has managed to solidify reliably, they begin to solve the main question of how to fold the stove with your own hands - brickwork. It should be noted that there are a huge number of ordering options and only one will be considered further - the Swede. It is great for heating and cooking. Before starting work, it is recommended to hold the brick in water for up to 10 minutes.
All information about the furnace must be displayed in the drawings. They can reflect both the entire structure and its individual parts or cutouts. For each row, horizontal dimensions are given - orders.
As an option for space heating, you can use an electric boiler ...
The most important is the first row - it is necessary to strictly control the angles, vertical and horizontal. Having made errors, even minor ones to the eye, they will make themselves felt in the future.
It is customary to place a blower in a niche with right side. But to make it easier to remove ash from it, in the direction of the camera inner sides combed under the cone. Very often you will have to use not a whole brick, but a certain part of it. It is better to cut the pieces with a special diamond-coated disc, but do not beat with a hammer.
After installing the blower door, the laying of the second row begins. When this is done, the dressing is done with a displacement of 30-50% for greater stability of the structure.
The height of the third row should match the top edge of the door. At the same time, it is necessary not to forget to squeeze the edges of the brick, forming a cone inside the blower for more easy removal ash.
The fourth row is laid on the left. First, mount the door for cleaning. A U-shaped channel is made. Above the ash pan must be laid out square hole while closing the blower door.
The fifth row practically does not have any differences from the fourth, but the hole above the ash pan needs to be narrowed a little more.
It is necessary to prepare a refractory brick before proceeding with the laying of the sixth row (it will be in place of hatching). If this is not possible, the usual one will do. At the same time, it is necessary to support the grate on the fifth row. Between it and the bricks, a compensating small gap of up to 15 mm is required, which is filled with sand or a hall.
In the seventh row, it is necessary to block the previously formed U-shaped channel so that it forms three new ones. The door for the furnace is placed on the sixth row.
The eighth and ninth rows are placed similarly to the seventh. They should reach the top of the furnace door.
In order for flue gases to smoothly pass into the channel from the furnace, it is necessary to comb off the bricks that block the left channel and the furnace wall.
Laying out the tenth row, it is necessary to monitor its strict verticality. A cooking floor will be laid on top of it, which cannot be beveled, otherwise it will be extremely inconvenient to cook. The furnace door is completely blocked and two strictly square channels are left.
The question of how to fold a brick oven with your own hands is half resolved. The cooking floor closes the combustion chamber, relying on the tenth row. The edge of the bricks that will be in contact with it should be combed, forming a gap of up to 2 cm. A small door for the furnace is immediately installed and the eleventh row is laid out. On the left are two square channels.
The twelfth and thirteenth rows fit almost the same. The main difference is that at first both square channels are connected into a single one, and in the next row they are again separated.
The fourteenth row is set by analogy with the previous one, but in it one channel is blocked by a damper. In the closed state, it will be possible to use the hob, preventing the stove from heating up.
In the fifteenth row, the valve is closed, and in the sixteenth, the combustion chamber door is closed. In order to remove odors and ventilate the brewing department, it is necessary to install a door between it and the channel already closed by a valve.
In the seventeenth row, it is necessary to lay steel strips above the hob, which will allow you to block the chamber. In a conventional heating furnace, a domed ceiling would have to be built.
The next two rows cover the hob, but both square channels remain untouched.
On the surface of the cooking room, two bricks are placed on the edge, 40 cm away from the back wall. The doors for cleaning and the samovar pipe are immediately mounted. By analogy, the next row fits.
In the twenty-second row, it is necessary to close the doors. Above the hob, three longitudinal channels are made (11, 5 and 11 cm, respectively), on the left - all the same two square ones. In the twenty-third row, the longitudinal channels are blocked with bricks laid across. The next row is done in the same way.
By analogy with the twenty-second, rows 25-26 are laid.
In the twenty-seventh row, three bricks must be laid at the same distance and distance from the walls. This leaves only one square channel. By analogy, the following two rows are stacked.
In the thirtieth row, it is necessary to completely block the thermal chamber, leaving one smoke channel, which is blocked by a valve. The next two rows are stacked with a slight offset relative to each other. Three such rows guarantee fire safety.
It remains to equip a simple chimney for the furnace.
Detailed video instructions for laying the oven with your own hands
In custody
The above order of the Swede oven is one of the most common today. It not only makes it possible to heat the room, but also to cook food. Increasingly, this design can be found in suburban country houses.
But the question of how to fold the stove with your own hands turned out to be difficult and there is no confidence in your efforts - before starting work, you should contact the stove maker or the person who has already built similar designs. He will certainly give a lot of valuable advice.
The scheme of a brick heating furnace depends on what you want to end up with. It can be heating, or maybe just cooking food.
After all, the functionality may be different. Today we will consider furnaces heating brick drawings and the rules for performing work.
You will also learn about the types of this design and their purpose. Also in the video in this article, see the options for the manufacture and use of each type.
The right choice of masonry scheme
Heating brick ovens: drawings will need to be made before work begins. Indeed, depending on the type, a different amount of brick and finishing material. It is quite possible to make any of the proposed types with your own hands, in which case the price of the product will be much lower.
Types of ovens
Brick heating stoves: schemes are divided depending on the application.
Depending on the design, furnaces can be divided into the following types:
| heating stove | Its main purpose is to heat any room.
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| cooking oven | Its purpose is to cook food. For heating, it is simply not effective.
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| Heating and cooking stove | It has all the advantages and disadvantages of the two previous types.
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So:
- A stove for a home must have a number of mandatory characteristics: heat the room, be safe for others, create comfortable conditions residence.
- Not everyone can fold a stove with their own hands, which would have similar characteristics. The slightest mistake in calculations can be costly, just as quality work. As a rule, masters are invited for this.
- Nowadays, the task is somewhat simplified by the presence of a huge amount of information about laying furnaces on the Internet. Here you can get acquainted with the technique of laying the furnace in detail by watching the corresponding video.
Schemes of heating furnaces
Before choosing, you should familiarize yourself with the device options for each design.
Immediately you need to think about the installation system. After all, each design has its own requirements. For heavy ones, a large foundation is required. For cooking, it will be possible to get by with a small stove.
Preparatory work
First you need to decide on the place of construction future furnace. The first time the oven is erected is when housing is being built, which means that the shape and dimensions of the oven have already been determined, as well as its location.
So:
- The location of the stove largely depends on the layout of the entire building, and its location should be such that it effectively heats the entire living space.
- If the place is determined, you can start building the foundation. Its dimensions should be somewhat larger than the geometric dimensions of the furnace. During its construction it is necessary to put waterproofing.
- When laying, it should be remembered that the seams should be minimal, and evenness should be maximum.
- When laying out the internal surfaces of the chimneys, there should not be any influx of mortar, and the surfaces should be even. It is advisable to remove the excess solution that stands out from the seams. Carefully to be laid out as side surfaces, as well as angles.
Attention: The foundation must support the weight of the structure. Therefore, it will need to be reinforced. This will give additional rigidity.
Need a tool
To carry out such work, you will need the following tool:
- Trowel (trowel).
- Putty knife.
- Building level.
- Plumb.
- Lacing.
- Container for solution.
- Shovel or drill.
- Soft wire.
- Roulette.
Ways and order of laying
We do masonry
Furnaces can be laid different ways. This can be masonry with empty seams or masonry in pruning.
Note: These methods are fundamentally different. When laying in undercutting, the seams are completely filled, and such an oven is not plastered. The thickness of the walls of the furnace can be made in brick or half a brick.
For laying furnaces, only red solid bricks should be used. In this case, you can not use a brick that was in use, a slotted brick or other Construction Materials not intended for this.
Masonry technology consists of several stages:
- We cover the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. It can be a simple ruberoid. We make the basement. Its height is determined individually. Just don't make it too high. It is made as a solid masonry without voids.
- The first row can be laid out with bricks, without the use of mortar. After that, the bricks are aligned and the location of the front wall and the location of all doors are determined. After that, laying continues, but using a solution. As a rule, a solution of ordinary clay is used for laying furnaces.
- Then you can install vertical beacons using plumb lines and ropes or fishing line.
- Furnace elements such as a blower, an ash pan or a combustion chamber are located depending on the design of the furnace. As a rule, the blower is located after the third row of masonry, and one row after it is an ash pan.
- Then the firebox is laid out. The firebox door and blower are fastened with soft wire.
- The next in turn is the stove vault, which is formed after the second row of bricks laid out above the firebox.
- The combustion chamber is laid out with refractory bricks. To increase the efficiency of the furnace, it must be equipped with various valves that regulate the flow of heated gases.
Technological laying order
The order of laying out the furnace is as follows:
- Without mortar, the first row is laid out and leveled using building level.
- Bricks are laid out at the corners with mortar and strictly horizontally. After that, the space is filled with bricks, using mortar. This will be the first row.
- After laying out the first row, the evenness of the sides of the oven is checked with a tape measure. If there is a difference, then they are corrected with a mallet, knocking out one or another corner brick.
- After that, you can start laying out the second row. The laying starts from the corners and continues laying around the entire perimeter. After the perimeter is laid, the middle of the second row is laid.
- Then, at the corners, between the first and second row, nails are hammered, 80 mm long, and using a plumb line, the corner is projected onto the ceiling.
In the place of the projection of the corner, a nail is hammered and the rope is pulled from the bottom to the ceiling. This operation is done with all corners.
- The stretched cords will serve as a guide for further work. Subsequent rows, relative to the vertical, will be controlled by stretched cords that define the contour of the future furnace.
- All subsequent rows are laid out in the same way, controlling the horizontal position using the building level. During laying, you need to make sure that there is no excess mortar, and the walls of the chimney should be wiped with a wet cloth every 4-5 rows. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the solution in these places completely fills the seams.
- seams brickwork for the oven are made as thin as possible, and the filling of the seams is 100%. Masonry with thick seams is less durable, as their partial loss is possible.
- The laying of the furnace is carried out with the dressing of bricks, otherwise it will not hold. The meaning of the dressing is that the vertical seam of the next row is somewhere in the middle of the brick of the previous row. This does not always work out and the vertical seam “walks” from the center of the brick either to the left or to the right. This should be constantly monitored and adjusted in such a way that the center of the vertical row does not go beyond ¼ of the brick.
- The cut brick lies outside the chimney channel, since the cut surface is considered weaker and can collapse under the influence of temperature.
The use of fireclay bricks
Fireclay brick has excellent resistance to high temperatures and therefore it is used to form a combustion chamber.
- because of various coefficients thermal expansion bricks of the combustion chamber are not tied up with stove bricks. Between them there should be a gap of about 5 mm.
- When laying out a firebox from fireclay bricks, you can lay out the entire row or, after laying out, line the firebox with fireclay bricks.
Before installing the door, it should be checked for a good fit and free rotation on the hinges.
So:
- If there are distortions or lack of smooth rotation, such defects should be eliminated, and if this is not possible, then replaced with new ones. You should also determine if there are mounting holes available.
- For fastening, a soft (knitting) wire with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm and a length of about 50 cm is used. The wire is inserted into the hole and twisted.
- It is impossible to install the door after masonry, so it is installed during the masonry process. In order for the door to hold well, the wire must sit in the seams, between the rows of bricks. Since the masonry lies from the bottom up, the door is fixed in the same order. First, the lower ends of the wire are immured, and then the upper ones.
- After laying the lower fastening ends, the door must be set strictly vertically and horizontally, followed by fixation. After the door is exposed, you can continue further work.
- This installation technique can be used to fasten the doors of the combustion chamber, the door of the blower and other metal objects, such as gate valves, soot pipes, etc.
- A very important stage is the installation of the plate. It is installed on a solution of clay. The consistency of the grout should be such that the excess grout comes out freely from under the plate, as a result of the pressure of its own weight. Its quantity should be such that it fills all the free space. It cannot be allowed to be small. Later, under the action high temperature clay will sinter and securely hold the plate on the surface.
- After finishing work, you need to allow the stove to dry completely. This is at least 14 days, after which the stove can be fired.
- To make the oven attractive, it can be overlaid tiles. This is where the quality of masonry can come in handy, especially if it was done by hand. For a very flat surface it will be easy to lay the tile, especially since it is also laid with high requirements due to high temperature.
brick heating furnaces: we select drawings depending on the chosen design. The laying of the working part is best done on clay mortar. You have instructions and, by choosing a photo desired model, you can get to work.
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