How to fold the oven in the house with your own hands. How, using the drawings, to fold brick ovens for a house with a hob with your own hands. Installing the furnace door

Do-it-yourself brickwork for heating a house and a summer residence

To build a stove for a brick house with your own hands is quite within the power of even a novice bricklayer. Due to the abundance and availability of information, it is enough just to choose suitable design with an order and a detailed description of all stages of work, be patient and do the laying carefully and carefully. Let us consider in detail how to build a brick oven with your own hands.

The furnace starts from the foundation

Even a small do-it-yourself brick oven laid out in a country house or in a bathhouse weighs more than a ton. Therefore, you need to put it not on the floor, but on your own foundation.

The upper cut of the foundation coincides with the level of the subfloor. Need to pay Special attention to ensure that the top plane is perfectly horizontal. This will avoid skewing the masonry and greatly simplify the work of the stove-setter.

Two layers of roofing material, glassine or a durable building film are laid on the foundation for waterproofing. Laid on top of the waterproofing steel sheet and a layer of heat insulator (so that heat does not go into the foundation). For all this "pie" for future furnace bricks of the first layer of masonry are laid from bricks with their own hands.

Preparation of mortar for oven masonry

Unlike an ordinary wall, a do-it-yourself brick stove is built not on cement, but on clay-sand mortar. Compositions of solutions for fireclay and ceramic brick differ considerably.

The solution for fireclay bricks is prepared on the basis of white kaolin or fireclay marl. Minerals are characterized by high refractoriness and withstand temperatures above 1500 degrees. Dry masonry mixture for the preparation of a refractory masonry mortar, they are usually purchased in retail chains.

The mortar for ceramic bricks is prepared on the basis of ordinary clay, which can be found in your area. Clay for ovens is also sold in many building supermarkets.

For 100 pcs. brick will need about 40 kg of clay. The proportions of clay and sand are determined by trial batches. This is done as follows:

Clay is soaked for a day in cold water.
The batch is divided into 5 parts and a quarter, half, three quarters or an equal weight part of sand is added to each, respectively.
All the resulting samples are kneaded again until completely homogeneous and allowed to stand for 3-4 hours to remove excess moisture.

We test samples:

roll them into sausages 1-1.5 cm thick and wrap around any round object with a diameter of 5 cm.
In the case when cracks of more than 2 mm have formed on the sample, the solution is not suitable.
With a crack depth of up to 2 mm, the solution is suitable for those parts of the furnace where the heating temperature does not exceed 300 degrees.
If the surface of the sample is not cracked or covered fine mesh- such a solution is quite suitable for making an oven with your own hands.

Since the cost of sand is much lower than the cost of good kiln clay, the essence of the samples is to determine the maximum possible proportion of filler in the solution.

Do-it-yourself brick oven for home video

Brick laying technology

The scheme of the furnace provided below is distinguished by its simplicity and very high availability of repetition with a high percentage of successful results. A do-it-yourself brick oven is small in size and is suitable as a heat source for one room or a small garden house. The area allotted for the furnace is only 0.4 square meters. m. A very small amount of brick is used for construction, so it has a very small weight.

The laying of the furnace begins with the first row. To ensure perfect horizontal plane under the brick, you can pour a thin layer of washed river or mountain sand. Sand will smooth out the difference in the thickness of the bricks, and at the same time will act as an additional heat insulator.

The basics of choosing a building material

The thickness of the mortar between the bricks should be 2-3 mm. A thicker seam quickly crumbles. For masonry, you need to choose the most even bricks with the same dimensions - since irregularities cannot be compensated for with mortar!

On the second row, we install the blower door. To compensate for thermal expansion, it is wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord. The door is fastened with steel wire fixed in the masonry. So that the wire does not interfere, grooves are cut out in the brick with a grinder under it.

The third row is laid out already from fireclay bricks. Grid-irons are placed on it after the clay has set.

The laying of the furnaces of the fourth row is laid on edge. If the grate does not fit into the free space, the brick must be cut in place, providing gaps of 3 mm on all sides.

When laying a brick oven, it is important to know!

The rear "knock-out" brick is placed without mortar. It is needed to clean the channels.

On the fifth row, similarly to the blower, a furnace door is installed. The fifth row is laid out flat, and these protruding bricks play the role of an external heat exchanger.

The seventh - ninth rows are laid out flat again. A cast-iron hob is laid on top of the ninth row. Asbestos or fiberglass cord is also used for laying between metal and brick.

Application of cord for sealing masonry

Without a sealing cord, smoke will enter the room, and the clay solution will quickly crumble from the thermal expansion of the cast-iron stove.

The last three rows form a place for installing a light chimney. On the penultimate row, a metal valve is installed. It should also be separated from the stone with an asbestos cord.

After complete drying of the masonry, the "knock-out" brick is pulled out and removed from the channel construction garbage. So that the sand from under the stove does not spill out, a plinth is nailed along its perimeter.

Brick ovens for giving video

Choosing pipes for the chimney

Any metal or asbestos-cement pipe with a channel of about 200 square meters will serve as a chimney for this stove. cm, which corresponds to 11.5 cm in diameter for a round section. The height of the upper edge of the pipe above the level of the grate of the combustion chamber is at least 4 m. The height of the part protruding above the roof is at least half a meter. If the stove smokes during the first starts, the pipe can be extended by 25-50 cm.

Finishing a brick oven

Do-it-yourself ready-made laying of the furnace is whitewashed on the outside with a simple chalk whitewash or thin plaster. Fatty milk can be added to the water as a binder. And ordinary blue will help prevent the appearance of yellowness.

If you decide how to fold the oven more high level- choose one of the available options for its ennoblement:

lining with decorative facade bricks or stove tiles;
outer metal screen;
decorative stitching or painting of seams with heat-resistant paint.

Laying with bricks and tiles should be foreseen in advance, since during the construction process, the outer elements are tied with masonry. This work requires a lot of experience and it is better to entrust it to professional stove-makers. It is better to install a metal screen not close, but at some distance from the furnace body. Then it will play the role of an air convector, which will significantly increase the rate of heating the room.

Outcome

Knowing how to build a stove in a house with your own hands, you can provide affordable heating for any small room. The experience gained during the first construction will become the basis for further improvement of this sought-after skill.

Stove heating country houses Today it is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that simple stove from brick, even made by your own hands. Often it is installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, trying to get a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick ovens and share the secrets of the oven craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick oven is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish interior element.

Probably, there is no such person who would not like a living hearth with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But the good old brick oven will be able to please not only with this, but also with the ability to create the most favorable atmosphere for health. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick emits water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when it cools. The stove, as it were, “breathes”, thanks to which it is installed in the room optimal humidity. It is also important that the heat becomes already at a temperature of 18–19 ° C, while when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 ° C. In addition, being made of clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that during the operation of the heater, you can not worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of arranging the furnace and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary furnace of this type has:

foundation, which serves as the base of the heater and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
a furnace that simultaneously acts as a firebox and a combustion chamber;
a grate that allows for the lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to adjust the intensity of fuel combustion;
ash chamber, which facilitates the cleaning of the furnace;
a chimney that creates the necessary draft and emits exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Construction of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood-burning heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging extra bed recreation. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, barbecue or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to a visual and image component.

The advantages of brick ovens include:

rapid heating of the surface;
the possibility of using several types of fuel;
low operating costs;
the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heater is eliminated;
especially soft, comfortable warmth;
the air in the room is not dehydrated;
ample opportunities in terms of interior decoration.

The units under consideration also have disadvantages. The most significant of these is the potential danger of poisoning. carbon monoxide, which appears in case of improper operation. Another - large dimensions and weight. That, perhaps, is all. As you can see, equipment of this type has solid advantages and almost no negative moments which, however, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick ovens can be divided into several types:

heating devices;
cooking units;
combined ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that you can fold yourself. In order not to consider the whole variety of stationary units, let's focus on the most popular options:

Dutch stoves. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in the mode of slow burning or smoldering, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the "Dutch" rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly because of the low cost and ease of construction.
The classic "Dutch" is an extremely compact structure
Swedish wood stoves have a chamber-channel layout, which allows you to increase the efficiency up to 50%. Just like the "Dutch", the "Swedes" take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of this type of heat generators.
The Swedish stove will delight its owner high efficiency and functionality
have a unique layout, due to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the features of operation. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the oven. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.
The Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but it will require a lot of space for installation.
Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that contributes to the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A feature of the "blacksmiths" is an extremely clean "exhaust" and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on caring for the heater. As for the minuses, they include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the latter disadvantage is compensated by the fact that much less brick is required for the construction of a “cap” than for any other furnace.
Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and oven

Step-by-step instructions for laying the Kuznetsov stove with orders can be found in our next article:.

Having considered all possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heater that can meet all the requirements for it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first is not difficult, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you more about how to choose a stove in accordance with the type of building.

House designed for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then there is no better option than "Swede" or "cap". In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily supplemented with other elements - a hob, a water circuit, an oven, drying niches or a bench. If the functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a “Dutch woman” that heats several adjacent rooms is a good option.
Country house "weekend" or cottage. Since these buildings involve irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heater equipped with a hob. Fireplace stoves with an open hearth are ideal, as they can be used to heat the room in the shortest possible time. Similar advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when indoor temperatures drop to sub-zero temperatures.
A stove in a country house with water or other type of heating. In this case, the heater serves to create a special atmosphere. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or a unit with a firebox, a fireplace and a stove bench.
Bath heater. For this case, the simplest stove-heater is suitable, in which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bath is attached to the house, then instead of the tank, you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
Furnaces for open areas. Most often, such heaters are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

The barbecue oven will decorate the site and fill the resting place with functionality

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heater to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of the main parameters

Before choosing a working project of a heating device, it is necessary to make estimation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat transfer of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. This method uses an average thermal power taken from one square meter of unit surface (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take a value of 0.5 kW / sq. m, and if necessary, intensive heating, which occurs during severe cooling - up to 0.76 kW / sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of the furnace, only those of its surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in the "Dutch" sections of the walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the flue, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, already these values are enough to select suitable project of those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick ovens

Sauna stove
Fireplace stove Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the furnace are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel bookmark. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity based on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2-3 times greater than the obtained value, which will allow the furnace to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the furnace part, it must be taken into account that the maximum bookmark should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the furnace and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the furnace. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various quadratures.

Table of calculations of the main elements of a brick oven

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove will be fired with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood-burning stoves do not require a lot of traction, so best form the smoke channel will be a rectangle. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross section of the blower should not exceed the area of its flue, while all values \u200b\u200bare adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since precise design requires a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. Nevertheless, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use the average values for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
5 - 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
5 - 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

The recommended sizes are the minimum. And yet, there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will fall into the furnace through a too wide chimney. Backflow, or “whistling” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only to degrade performance, but also to more serious problems.

To calculate the amount required material it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be built up with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often, such events are carried out with the changed aerodynamics of the area. For example, after growing trees or erecting taller buildings in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

selection of tools and necessary materials;
determination of the optimal place for mounting the heater;
arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
production of oven bricks (if necessary) and preparation of masonry mortar.

Necessary materials and tools

Stovemaker's tools

For laying a brick oven you will need:

Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
Panicle for mopping laid rows.
Corner, plumb and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
Pliers.
Rubber hammer (mallet).
Trowel (trowel).
Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
Lead scribbler.
Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
Stitching.
Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
Sieve.
Bulgarian (angle grinder) with a circle on the stone.

Despite the fact that brick ovens differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains almost unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

Brick - red, silicate, refractory and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
Building mixture for laying furnaces. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
A set of furnace castings - blower, furnace and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
Grate.
Wire for fixing cast iron.
Asbestos or basalt cord.
Steel strips and corners for arranging ceilings and niches.
Heat-resistant plates for protective thermal insulation.

Chamotte brick SHB No. 22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight, which requires a major foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for the construction of the foundation:

Sand.
Rubble.
Reinforcement mesh.
Boards and nails for the construction of formwork.
Cement.
Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides exterior finish walls, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for these works.

Features of choosing a place for installing a heater

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available area in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is located in the center of the house, orienting the firebox and hob to the kitchen, and the other faces to the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits of choosing the right location.

The right choice of location is able to solve the problem of heating all the premises of a country house

When installing a heater, one should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum allowable distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances, which are determined by the current SNiP:

from the brick chimney to the wooden elements of the ceiling or roof, there must be at least 130 mm of free space. If uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe, then the gap is increased to 250 mm;
between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the furnace leave a gap of at least 100 mm;
the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen, the minimum clearance is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
a gap of at least 0.35 m must be left from the ceiling to the ceiling of the furnace. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Foundation construction

It is best if the base of the brick oven is formed simultaneously with the common house foundation. At the same time, both structures are performed separately, otherwise the subsidence of the walls of the building will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, and even damage to the heater. If the stove will be built in a finished house, then the first thing they pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the elements of the roof covering, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they start marking and building the foundation.

Given the weight of the stove, the foundation must be solid.

If wooden floors are equipped in the house, then they are cut out at the place where the furnace is installed, departing from the outer contour of 10–15 cm. After that, they dig a foundation pit, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For middle lane it is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After that, its bottom is covered with a 15-cm layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is poured, which is also carefully rammed. After that, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the crate boards are attached. To prevent the leakage of cement milk through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered polyethylene film. At a distance of 5-10 cm from the floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed, for which they use both metal rods hammered into the bottom of the pit and brick fragments.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

Mixing cement M-400, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the foundation surface is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the base of the furnace should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours have passed, necessary for the preliminary setting of the solution, the structure is covered with a film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying the brick, the foundation must be waterproofed with a roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Solution preparation

Now, when in trading network you can find ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All that is required for this is to mix the components with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. Nevertheless, you can make a masonry mortar on your own - this will additionally save. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the building.

cook it yourself building mix it is possible from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the last component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After that, balls with a diameter of 5-6 cm are rolled out of the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition the one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third is considered.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower the spatula into the prepared mixture. Adhesion of the solution less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is required to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates the fat content of the mixture, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

Clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If it is required to increase its fat content, then the grinding method is used, which consists in settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly fold a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Deciding on the type of heater, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything for the start of construction is only half the battle. In order to properly fold the oven, it is necessary to find the layout of the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared some of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason they do not suit you, then you can search turnkey solutions on the Web or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Schemes for ordering furnaces in the photo

Orders of the Swedish oven Orders of the "Dutch" Orders of the Russian oven
Orders of the heating and cooking furnace
Orders of the stove for a bath
Orders bell-type furnace Kuznetsova

Today we propose to fold a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite the apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove-makers and give necessary recommendations in the course of construction.

Stove orders with a hob and niches for drying

On the presented ordering scheme, you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish stove. We recommend first laying out the structure dry, without the use of mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Further work is done in this order:

To the floor level, the bricks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar solid. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry in terms of level and plumb. From the careful execution of the work depends on how smooth and stable the oven will be.
The first row of the furnace body begins to form a blowing chamber.
Installing a blower door
Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in masonry joints. To prevent displacement and overturning of the door, it is temporarily supported by bricks.
In the fourth row, two channels are brought out to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.
The grate is not attached in any other way than by very precise laying.
In the fifth row, a grate is installed. Correctly laying the cast iron will help the recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is laid out exclusively with refractory bricks.
In the furnace, the grate is laid on a refractory brick
Before laying the sixth row, a furnace door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden lath.
Furnace door installation
Starting from the seventh row, they begin to equip the gas ducts of the furnace. The vertical walls of the furnace are laid out fireclay bricks mounted on the edge.
To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber with a layer of basalt cardboard.

Laying vertical channels
Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected in the bricks with which the furnace door will overlap. Thanks to this, the design will look even and aesthetically pleasing. Here, the cast-iron part is finally fixed, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.
For an exact fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place
In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.
The firebox is separated from the outer walls with basalt cardboard or other refractory material.
From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
Before covering the hob niche on its side walls steel strips are laid, which will serve as a support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
In the 20th row, they equip a horizontal channel and a door for cleaning soot and soot, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
The masonry of the 22nd row covers the door.
On the 23rd row, the horizontal gas duct is covered. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the oven niche is blocked.
In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical gas ducts. To do this, first mount their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.
Installation of furnace valves
From the 31st to the 35th row lay out the transition section of the chimney.
From the 36th to the 38th row, fluff is constructed.

In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is isolated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. For this, both mineral heaters and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

Here's a beauty you can fold with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Earlier, we considered how oven doors are mounted and fixed. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Features of mounting the oven

If the design of the furnace provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes the largest possible surface area. Most often, these conditions correspond to the section of the transition from the furnace to the heat exchanger. Preliminarily, metal corners are laid on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the places of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed with basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

The hot water boiler or liquid heat exchanger is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place can be located at the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the gas flue or under the hood of non-revolving units. If you plan to use the hob and water heater at the same time, then it upper part are made in the form of transversely arranged metal pipes, which are welded into side tanks made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5-15 mm is left between the water-heating boiler and the furnace walls. Of course, it is necessary to foresee how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For channel and chamber furnaces, this can be done through the opening of the firebox, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operation and cleaning of the furnace

It is impossible to immediately test the furnace at maximum modes; it is necessary to wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heater in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one to two weeks. If it becomes necessary to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the oven is heated for 5-7 days 2-3 times a day, each time using not a large number of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensate on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after that, the stove is not heated "to the fullest." Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with firewood, then it is not necessary to clean it from ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is freed from ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For this purpose, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After that, the soot is raked out of the gas ducts with a metal scoop and a poker.

Choosing the right fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood hardwood is considered - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen practically do not leave soot. By the way, experienced stove-makers recommend that every tenth firebox be carried out with aspen logs, arguing that this helps to remove soot from the channels and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning it using flammable liquids, smoke powder (yes, you can find such “useful” tips), naphthalene, etc. A good effect from this can hardly be achieved, but nearby buildings and your own health can cause significant damage.

It often causes difficulties to kindle the stove after a long cooling, for example, in a cottage or in a country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming hard-to-remove gas plugs. A proven method will help resume cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, lay it closer to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the heater's performance.

You will also need material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick ovens:.

Video: Compact brick oven of the original design

A brick oven will be able to create a particularly warm atmosphere in the room, it will become a highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Folding the unit is within the power of not only experienced craftsmen, but also green beginners. Of course, one must be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heater will repay not only cozy warmth and comfort, but also safe operation for many years of operation.

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, as I try to do everything with my own hands.

There is a large number various ovens, which can serve both for heating and for heating the house and cooking. Some are quite voluminous and massive, others are compact, and for a particular room it is selected desired option, which will be most effective for a given area. In addition, any of the ovens must be installed with mandatory accounting requirements developed by specialists in accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003.

In the conditions of the modern information space, brick ovens for the home, drawings with orders can always be found on the Internet. However, it must be remembered that building this structure on your own is quite difficult, since each stove-maker has his own experience and professional secrets, which are acquired only with work experience.

Criteria for choosing a brick oven

If, nevertheless, it is decided to do such work on your own, then you need to decide on the model - with knowledge of the matter, paying attention not only to the appearance and design of the furnace, but also to its heating abilities in relation to the room that it will have to heat.

When choosing a furnace by size, it must be taken into account that its side walls give off more heat than the front and back. This factor must be taken into account when planning the installation of the stove in one place or another.

Furnaces are divided not only by functionality, but also by its form. They can be rectangular, T-shaped, with a ledge in the form of a stove bench or stove, and others.

Furnaces can only be used for heating living rooms and be installed, for example, between the living room and the bedroom, perform several functions and serve as a dividing wall between the living quarters and the kitchen.

For rooms with a small area, you should not choose too massive buildings. Although many of them are multifunctional, they will take up too much useful space that can be used for other needs.

Naturally, the location of the heated room in the house, as well as the degree of insulation of the entire building, also plays a big role.

Stove selection table depending on the heated area and the location of the rooms:

Room area, m²	Furnace surface, m²
	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outside corner	Room with two outside corners	Hallway
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

All these criteria must be predetermined, and based on them, a choice should be made in favor of one or the other model.

Types of brick ovens

As mentioned above, the design of furnaces can be different - both very difficult to build, and quite simple. The most famous of the models are "Dutch", "Swede", "Russian". Modifications named after their designers are widely popular. So, the furnaces of Bykov, Podgorodnikov, Kuznetsov and other masters are very common.

There are heating stoves that do not have a hob and other elements, but consist only of walls in which flue ducts, furnaces, blowers and cleaning chambers pass.

Heating and cooking stoves have in their design a stove for cooking, sometimes an oven, a hot water tank and a drying chamber.

Another type of heating structure is a fireplace stove, which has two fireboxes in its design - a fireplace and a stove. This model can be used by heating only one of the fireboxes or both at the same time.

There are also stoves that include the entire complex necessary for human life both in summer and in summer. winter period. Often they are equipped with a heated bed, which may well serve as the basis for the bed.

You may be interested in information about what is

Prices for finished heating stoves

heating furnaces

Choosing a place to install the oven

It is also important to provide for the correct installation location of the furnace. The best place is the crosshairs of the walls of the house. If he doesn't have large area, then such a stove can heat all rooms at the same time. It is desirable that the structure is located near the entrance to the building, since the heat emanating from it will create a barrier to the cold air coming from front door. In addition, if the firebox door opens into the hallway, it is easier to deliver fuel to it without carrying it through the whole house.

When choosing a place, you need to take into account several more factors that are important for the operation of the furnace:

The building must be installed in such a way that there is free access to any of its walls - this must be taken into account for unhindered control of the integrity of the walls and for cleaning the chambers.
When building a furnace, it is necessary to provide for it separate foundation not connected to the base of the house.
The chimney must pass between the attic floor beams and not stumble upon them when it is raised - this is provided for when building a house, and if the stove is being built in a finished building, then before laying the foundation for it.
For the purpose of fire safety, a heat-resistant flooring made of sheet metal or ceramic tiles.

Basic design of a brick oven

To know how each of the elements of the furnace works, and what it is intended for, you need to consider the basic design of the heating structure:

The fuel chamber is designed for laying and burning fuel. It is separated from the blower chamber by a grate and connected to internal channels, through which smoke and hot gases follow through the entire furnace, redirecting to the chimney pipe.
The blower chamber provides an adjustable air supply to the furnace and is a collector of ash from burnt fuel, therefore it requires periodic cleaning.
An oven, a hob and a tank for heating water - these elements are built into heating and cooking stoves.
Cleaning chambers are necessary, as soot collects in them, which crumbles from the walls of the chimney channels passing inside the furnace. With the help of them, periodic cleaning of the furnace is carried out to maintain normal traction.

Chimney channels passing inside the furnace may have different configuration in different models. Hot gaseous products of combustion, passing through them, heat the walls of the furnace, which give off heat to the room.
Channels direct smoke with combustion products into a chimney located at the very top of the furnace and then going outside the building.

One of essential conditions effective work The stove is a good draft, which is achieved by high-quality masonry in compliance with the ordering scheme and periodic cleaning in the structure during operation. In addition, it is necessary to observe the required height of the chimney and its correct location on the roof.

You might be interested in why

Materials for building a furnace

An important issue for the long-term functioning of the furnace is the choice of high-quality materials for its masonry, so you should not save on them. To build a building you will need:

Red refractory brick, the quantity of which is determined by the selected model. It must be remembered that this material is quite fragile, so its transportation and unloading must be carried out very carefully.
Fireclay bricks are used for laying a combustion chamber in direct contact with fire. It will take from 40 to 200 pieces, but the exact amount can be found in the diagram of the selected model. This type of brick is able to withstand temperatures of 1450-1500 °, it keeps heat for a long time, gradually giving it to the walls of the furnace.
You can’t do without raising the oven without mortar for laying bricks, which is made on the basis of clay. The stove-makers are advised to use the Borovichevsky composition of the solution - it is quite plastic during the laying process and refractory during operation.
Cast iron elements are doors for the firebox, blower and cleaning chambers, valves and a grate. If the heating and cooking stove is raised, then one or more two-burner stove, oven and water heating tank provided by the design.

Steel wire for fixing cast iron elements in masonry.
Asbestos cord or sheet - for laying between brick and metal parts.

You might be interested in information on how to make a cast iron stove out of it

Now, having become acquainted with some of the nuances of building a furnace, we can consider several models that should be available for masonry even for beginners.

Heating stove by V. Bykov

This oven is for heating purposes only as it does not include a stovetop or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for homes with small area, since it is compact - it takes up little space, but at the same time it is able to heat even three rooms.

The size of the building is 510 × 1400 mm, while its height without a chimney is 2150 mm. If we take the size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.

The stove is quite simple in laying, as it does not have complex internal configurations. In appearance, it generally resembles a thick wall, so the designer himself called it a "thick warm wall." Heat transfer from the entire structure is 2400 kcal/h, but at the same time, 920 kcal/h fall on the side walls, and only 280 kcal/h on its front and back parts. The cross section of the flue duct is 130 × 260 mm.

Due to its small width, the stove fits perfectly between two rooms, opening into a third room, for example, into a hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a source of heat for them.

The whole design of this model is conditionally divided into two compartments - this is the upper gas outlet and the lower one is the furnace. In the lower part there are two channels - ascending and descending. They help heat the furnace part of the furnace and equalize the temperature throughout the building, preventing it from overheating.

The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap, divided into five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are overlapped by ⅔ of bricks laid horizontally in the masonry. They create a kind of sieve that delays the release of heat directly into the pipe. The walls of the channels not only direct the heated air in the right direction, but also significantly increase the internal surface area of the furnace. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It is also facilitated by a valve installed in the upper part of the building, which regulates the exit of warm air into the pipe.

For this oven model you will need the following materials:

Red refractory brick - 407 pcs.
White fireclay brick SHA-8 — 197 pcs.
Furnace door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
Cleaning doors 140×140 mm - 2 pcs.
Grate 250×252 mm -1 pc.
Chimney damper 130×250 mm -1 pc.
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox, size 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc., ceramic tiles can be laid instead of the sheet.

Prices for ready-made furnaces for brick ovens

Firebox for brick ovens

Bykov furnace ordering

The laying of the furnace takes place on the foundation prepared for it, which should have a size larger than the base of the furnace by 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The height of the foundation must be two rows of masonry below the finished floor. Before laying, it is laid with a layer of waterproofing - roofing material.

ordering	Description of works
	According to this scheme, two zero rows are presented, which are below the level of the finished floor. Each row will require 22 red bricks.
	Masonry, located on the same level with the finishing floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted in front of the firebox. The floor surface around the stove is lined with heat-resistant ceramic tiles.
	1 row - a blower chamber is formed. At the entrance to it, a hewn brick is installed, which facilitates the selection of combustion waste. For laying this row, 21 bricks are needed.
	2nd row - when laying it, the blower door is installed and the chamber itself continues to form. For laying this row, 20 bricks are required.
	3rd row - the blower chamber continues to form. The wire attached to the ears of the door is embedded in the seams of the masonry. For a row, you will need 19 whole bricks and 2 ⅓ bricks, which are stacked near the installed door.
	4th row - the front part of the blower chamber is blocked with bricks along with installed door. At the rear of the structure, the base of the swivel well begins to form. This row will take 12 whole, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
	5th row - the base of the fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks above the blower chamber. Hewn bricks are laid in the front and rear parts of the base, along which the combustion waste will slide into the ash-blowing chamber through the one installed on the same row grate. A gap of 5 mm must be left between it and the bricks. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. It will take 17 whole and two ⅓ bricks.
	6 row - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the chimney well continues to lay out. 11 pieces of fireclay bricks are used.
	7 row - the chimney well is divided in two by two bricks. The bricks above the well must be hewn. As a result of masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and descending. In this row, 11 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 fireclay bricks cut obliquely across the entire width were used.
	8 row is laid according to the scheme, repeating the previous one, the only difference is the direction of the brick. A row will take 15 bricks.
	9th row - the door of the fuel chamber is blocked with two bricks. This row will require 16 fireclay bricks. The back of the oven is placed according to the scheme.
	10 row - bricks are laid according to the scheme in compliance with their direction. This row needs 16 bricks.
	11 row - a brick on the back wall of the furnace and at the entrance to the drop-down channel must be hewn from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. A row will require 12 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ fireclay bricks.
	12 row - there is a combination of a falling chimney channel and a fuel chamber. For a row, you need 13 whole and 2 in ½ fireclay bricks.
	The 13th row is laid, according to the presented scheme, and it uses 10 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ fireclay bricks.
	The 14th row also fits according to the scheme, it will take 10 whole and 6 in ¾ bricks.
	15 row - using prepared bricks, ¾ in size, a narrowing of the fuel chamber, combined with a descending channel, is arranged. The total number of bricks used is 7 whole and 14 pieces in ¾.
	16 row - the combined descending channel and the fuel chamber are completely blocked with bricks. This and the next row divide the structure into two parts - the upper gas-air and the lower fuel. For a row, 17 whole, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks are used.
	17th row is laid out of red brick. An opening of the ascending channel is left in it, along its edges hewn obliquely bricks are mounted. Used 14 whole, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
	18 row - a horizontal channel of the furnace is formed, it is the basis for mounting five channels that will go vertically. The cleaning chamber door is installed on the same row. For a row, you need 8 whole, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	19 row - the formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the building, is underway. It will be a continuation of the ascending channel of the lower furnace part of the furnace. The bricks that form this channel must be cut obliquely from below. Used 11 whole and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	20 row - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Half a brick is mounted between the first and second channels. This part in this row and in the subsequent ones has a dual purpose - it is the basis for the next row and forms windows in the masonry for heat exchange with the walls and maintaining normal traction. In a row, 7 whole, 3 in ½ and 8 in ¾ bricks are used.
	21 row - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. Bricks placed at the base of the walls dividing the channels are pressed together from below, as in previous cases. For a row, you need 11 whole, 5 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	The 22nd row is placed according to the scheme in compliance with the formation of channels. For a row, you need 11 whole and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, for a total of 17 pieces.
	The 23rd row is also laid according to the scheme and for it you need to prepare 12 whole, 4 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks.
	24 row - on this row, the laying of the wall between the second and the first is completed vertical channels. The upper brick in the wall is hemmed from the two upper sides obliquely. For a row, you need 9 whole, 3 in ½ and 8 in ¾ bricks. A total of 18 bricks need to be used, some of which split in two.
	25th row - it completes the laying of the walls between the second and third vertical channels. The upper brick in the wall from above is pressed together on both sides. For masonry, you need 10 whole, 4 in ¾ and 5 in ½ bricks.
	26th row - completion of the wall masonry between the third and fourth vertical channels. The upper brick of the wall is also pressed on both sides. You need to prepare 10 whole, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks.
	27th row - work is proceeding according to the scheme, and it requires 9 whole, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks.
	28 row - it uses bricks made in ¾ of a solid brick - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called a cap. For a row, 4 whole ones are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 hewn obliquely over the entire thickness.
	29 row - in it, the channel formed in the previous row is completely blocked, with the exception of the opening left for the chimney pipe. For its masonry, 17 whole, 4 - ¾ and 2- ½ bricks will be required.
	30 row is also laid out solid, according to the scheme, except for the opening for the chimney. It uses 6 whole and 20 in ¾ bricks.
	31 rows are laid out according to the scheme and 17 whole, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks are prepared for it.
	32 row - the first row of the chimney begins to be laid out, for it you will need 5 whole bricks.

Stove-fireplace "Swede" A. Ryazankin

Quite popular, due to its efficiency, the heating and cooking stove of the "Swede" type. Its design contributes to the rapid heating of the premises and allows not only to heat the house, but also to cook dinner.

The appearance of the "Swede" Ryazankin

Such an oven is usually installed between the kitchen and the living area of the house, positioning it so that the hob and oven are turned towards the kitchen. In some Swede designs, a fireplace is provided on the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom. It is this option that is worth considering, since it is perfect for both a spacious and a small building, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of their living rooms.

This stove model is heated with wood, has a size of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height, excluding the pipe. At the same time, it is necessary to provide for the fact that the fireplace portal will protrude 130 mm beyond the building. The foundation must be larger than the size of the base of the furnace and be 1040 × 1020. The power of the Swede reaches 3000 kcal / h.

For the construction of this model of the furnace, the following materials will be required:

Red brick, excluding pipe laying - 714 pcs.
Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
Door for combustion chamber 210×250 mm — 1 pc.
Door for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm — 8 pcs.
Oven 450×360×300 mm - 1 pc.
Two-burner cast-iron stove 410 × 710 mm - 1 pc.
Grate 200×300 mm - 1 pc.
Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 mm - 2 pcs.
Steel strip 50×5×920 mm - 3 pcs.
Steel strip 50×5×530 mm - 2 pcs.
Steel strip 50×5×480 mm - 2 pcs.
Fireplace grate, you can make it yourself from reinforcing bars.
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc.
Asbestos sheet or cord for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.

Furnace masonry

The presented diagrams show in detail the location of all the cast-iron elements of the fireplace stove, and the description of the masonry will help to avoid mistakes at some rather complex stages of work.

Experienced master masons recommend laying the entire oven dry to begin with, that is, without mortar, adhering to the scheme and understanding the configuration of each of the rows. This process is especially important for beginners who are barely familiar with the work of the stove.

Another trick experienced craftsmen is a preliminary adjustment and laying of each of the rows without mortar during work. Any row is laid out first, and, if necessary, individual bricks are cut or hemmed, and then they are laid on the mortar.

This approach will slow down the work somewhat, but will allow it to be done much better, without errors that could negatively affect the creation of normal traction.

When performing masonry, you need to keep at hand not only the diagram of each of the rows, but also a sectional drawing of the furnace. It will also help - it will allow you to present all the channels passing inside and the design of the furnaces.

So, the laying is done as follows:

Ordering - from 1 to 6 row

The first, continuous row of the furnace, is laid on onlaid on ready ruberoid foundation. It is very important to lay out the row perfectly evenly and correctly, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. Therefore, first it is necessary to mark the roofing material with a ruler, square and chalk, drawing on it the shape of the base of the furnace, observing the dimensions. Then, relying on the scheme and observing the brick laying configuration, the first row is assembled dry, and then - laying on the mortar.
2 row. Metal elements are laid in it, consisting of pieces of reinforcement, on which a fireplace grate will later be fixed by welding, or this decorative element vm is completely leveled. The rest of the laying is carried out according to the scheme.
3 row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and blowing chamber are mounted, previously wrapped with asbestos rope or lined with asbestos pieces. To fix the doors in place, a wire is used, which is threaded into special eyelets of a cast-iron frame. Further, the wire is placed in the seams of the masonry, where it is fixed with mortar and pressed against the top row of bricks. Temporarily, until the final fixing, the doors are supported on both sides with bricks.

4 row. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, but the series is notable for the fact that the doors on both sides are fixed with masonry, which must be brought out perfectly evenly. The seams in this area can be two to three millimeters wider due to the wire embedded in them.
It is recommended to lay out the 5th row using fireclay fire-resistant bricks, as well as all the walls of the combustion chamber. On the same row, a grate and an oven box are mounted, which are wrapped or lined with asbestos in order to avoid premature burnout.

6 row. On this row, a furnace door is installed, wrapped with an asbestos cord, and with pieces of wire fixed in it.

7 row. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme, a steel strip is mounted above the laid out walls of the fireplace, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is laid flat or in the form of a semi-arch, giving it the desired shape in advance.
8 and 9 rows are laid out according to the presented scheme.
10 row. The front wall of the furnace is being strengthened, since a cast-iron hob will be mounted in this part of the building. A steel corner is fixed to the wall with the help of two wire hooks, then pieces of asbestos sheet are laid on the place of installation of the plate, and the plate itself is installed. In the same row, the door of another cleaning chamber is fixed.
11 and 12 rows are laid out according to the scheme without installation metal elements. On the twelfth row there is an overlap of the cleaning chamber door.

Ordering - from 13 to 24 row

From 13 to 15 rows are laid according to the developed scheme, strictly adhering to the brick laying configuration.
16 row. The device of the walls of the chamber is being completed, located above the hob, which is covered with metal strips. They will serve as the basis for laying bricks for the next row.
17 and 18 rows are stacked according to the scheme.
19 row. At this stage, two more cleaning chambers are mounted, which are fixed in the same way as the previous ones.
20, as well as 21 rows are placed according to the scheme.
22 row. Two more doors of the cleaning chambers are being installed.
23 row. The laying goes according to the scheme.
24 row. A chimney valve is being installed, the frame of which is installed on the solution.

25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent chimney channel, a second chimney valve is mounted.
26 row. The cleaning chamber door is being installed.
From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the scheme.
31 row. At this stage, the third, last chimney valve is installed.
32-33 rows. In this area of \u200b\u200bthe design, there is a transition to laying out a pipe that rises to the ceiling.

When laying a pipe through an attic floor, it is necessary to isolate combustible materials of construction from it. To do this, a metal box is arranged around the chimney with sides 100 ÷ 120 mm higher than the thickness of the ceiling. This "difference" remains in the attic.

If the oven walls are not covered decorative material, then when laying bricks, the still wet mortar in the seams is embroidered with a special tool, that is, it is given a neat convex or concave shape.

The oven - "Swede" can be supplemented with a warm stove bench. This interesting project presented on video.

Video: brick "Swede" with a stove bench

And at the end of the article - one more good advice. Before deciding on an independent construction of the furnace, without having sufficient experience in this work, it is recommended that you first practice in the usual laying of bricks on the mortar. Believe me, this process is not as simple as it seems at first glance.

Evgeny AfanasievChief Editor

Publication author 27.08.2015

A brick oven in a private house or country house can always perform several functions, such as heating and cooking. But most often the construction of a brick oven is carried out for one purpose - to constantly maintain heat in the house. In order for the heating of the room to be carried out efficiently (regardless of its size), and the fuel consumption to remain moderate, you should know not only the design features of the brick oven, but also correct order her buildings. Also, special attention should be paid to the choice of building material. How to fold a simple brick oven with your own hands can be found further.

Furnaces should be accurately distinguished according to the principle of use, which are divided into:

Red brick heating stoves. They are used most often, since with their help you can heat up to 100 m 2 of the room. The dimensions of the furnace can be quite large.

heating stove

Cooking ovens. They are used exclusively for cooking, of course, while spreading a certain heat around.
Combined brick. Such a brick oven can be used for both cooking and heating. Very convenient, for example, in the country or in a country house.

Example combination oven

Fireplace options. A brick fireplace stove is not widespread, but some owners are trying to give old stoves exactly the look of a fireplace, saving space. It is used for space heating or as a decorative version of a fire source.

Fireplace version of a brick stove

To know the basic structural elements and the dimensions of the red brick stove, for example, you should take the most popular option - the combined one (hob and brick stove for heating a house or cottage).

The structure of the combined brick oven:

Firebox. This is the place in the Russian stove where the combustion of fuel takes place. Since the temperature in this place is constantly high, the materials should be selected accordingly.
It blew. A free cavity, which is laid out of brick directly under the firebox. The main function is the accumulation of ash and small unburned residues. Also, air enters the furnace through the blower, which improves the quality of fuel combustion.
Channels for removing smoke from the furnace. One of the most difficult parts of the oven. Passing through the channels, the combustion products give off part of the heat to the brick, which subsequently heats the room.
Chimney. Releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere. It also provides the draft necessary for combustion in a Russian stove.
Tile. It is located in a place above the firebox and only in cooking or combination ovens.
Holes for cleaning. For greater convenience, they are mounted at the top of the chimney, this place allows you to clean it quickly and efficiently.

The foundation is the foundation of any building.

Like every solid building, brick oven for the house must have its own foundation. The average weight of a brick oven is 1.5 tons, no more. Therefore, in the ground it will be enough to dig a trench up to 15-20 cm deep, which is approximately equal to one spade bayonet, and you can start building a brick oven with your own hands.

After the trench for the foundation is ready, formwork can be installed in it. The formwork is made from boards of any category with their own hands, the only condition is the absence of traces of decay. The structure should rise 10-15 cm above the ground. According to the rules, the basement of the foundation should be level with the floor, but many homeowners make it a little higher. The formwork walls can be fastened together with knitting needles.

A sand cushion is poured at the bottom of the trench. You don't need to use a lot of sand. A cement masonry mortar can be poured over the embankment, for which the following materials are required:

1/3 bucket of cement.
8 bayonet shovels of sand.
Water (add until a thick cement slurry is formed). In case of accidental overflow of water, a little cement and sand should be added.

The first layer of cement will be 7-8 cm. Materials such as pieces of reinforcement or pre-welded reinforcing mesh. Next, the second layer is poured and reinforcement is also laid. Reinforcement will allow you to securely connect the entire structure and add strength to it. After pouring, the mortar must be allowed to dry, which can take up to several weeks.

2 layers of waterproofing should be laid on the finished foundation. It is not necessary to fix it, the brickwork will qualitatively press the waterproofing to the foundation.

Laying a brick oven with your own hands, step by step

If you know the sequence of laying a simple brick oven and have the required tools and building materials at hand, the work can take several days. It takes the craftsmen no more than one day to build a brick oven.

The most responsible in the furnace is the first brick row, which is laid with a solid surface, without any cavities or technical holes. To set the level and right angles you should use: a square, a building level and (if necessary) a tape measure. After finishing the laying of the first furnace level, it can be checked using a plumb line fixed on the ceiling in the room.

Construction of the first row of brickwork

If you do not follow these recommendations and do not use measuring tool, then the result may not correspond to the desired one: a row with curved walls, disproportionate angles, uneven surface. Then the furnace will have to be shifted, which will lead to additional waste of funds.

It is not always necessary here kiln brick sometimes half is enough. In order to prepare such pieces, you should use a grinder with a diamond wheel. Brick cannot be beaten with a hammer, it is too fragile and the pieces will turn out uneven.

You can see the entire process described above in more detail in the video:

The above sequence shows exactly that it is possible to fold a simple oven (which can withstand rising degrees) or a brick slab with your own hands, and this does not require complex tools or expensive building materials.

Ordering for a brick oven

Preparing a mortar for laying the oven

Most often, clay mortar is used for laying a brick oven (or firebox), which you can prepare yourself (for example, for a cooking stove), it will not take much time for this. The following materials are needed for the firebox: clay, water, sand. Clay, before preparing the mortar for laying the furnace, must be soaked for at least 24 hours. After that, you should add clean water without mineral impurities. The resulting masonry mortar should be thick enough and resemble sour cream in consistency. The last ingredient is sand, it is added in small portions, constantly stirring the solution.

If the laying of a brick oven is carried out in accordance with all the rules, then the clay mortar is not suitable for the first row (the junction of the brick and the foundation), as well as for the chimney. This is due to the accumulation of moisture during continuous operation of the furnace. Clay is prone to absorbing water and with sudden changes in temperature gives a crack. Therefore, for these places it is better to use lime mortar.

The procedure for preparing lime mortar for a brick kiln:

Materials: quicklime, water, sand. Prepare a mass consisting of water and lime in a ratio of 3:1. In this case, it is necessary to add water to the lime and constantly stir the solution until a dough is formed. Very important when working with quicklime use a protective mask and gloves.
After preparing the dough for laying the oven, it should be crushed and sieved with high quality, getting rid of too large particles.
Sand is added to the sifted solution, the amount of which should be 3 times more lime.
Adding water will allow you to get a thick mass for laying a stove or a separate firebox. Now you can start building a real Russian stove. Some masters, for greater strength, add a small part of the cement to the mortar.

A high-quality, but more expensive replacement for oven clay and lime mortar serves as a cement mortar. Cement is characterized by increased strength, as well as resistance to temperature changes, it is most suitable for laying a stove used for heating a room, as well as a chimney or oven.

To prepare such a solution, sifted sand and cement are required. The ratio should be 1 portion of cement to 3 portions of sand. Having prepared a dry mortar (it is enough to mix cement and sand), water can be gradually added to it, but only in small portions. Having achieved the necessary consistency (the solution should become creamy), you can start laying a brick oven for a house or a summer residence. The main disadvantage of cement mortar for creating a do-it-yourself brick oven is that it should be used within one hour after preparation.

And another useful video for beginner stove-makers

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For a long time, stoves for heating a house have been traditional heating structures and not only boilers, but also various other heaters cannot be compared with them in many respects. They provide "live" heat, in addition, they are distinguished by practicality and unpretentiousness in the use of solid fuel. In addition, a do-it-yourself stove built will last for many years.

Stoves for heating a private house are considered perfect choice for suburban real estate. A well-designed heating structure is able to provide residents with a comfortable stay in each of the premises of the building. See also: "".

Do-it-yourself stove: how to do it right

At a time when stoves were the main method of heating in houses, master stove-makers were engaged in their construction and repair. Now, with certain skills, home craftsmen have the opportunity to fold the stove with their own hands. In the absence of experience in carrying out construction work, the arrangement of such heating structure it is advisable to entrust professionals. It should not be forgotten that the furnace belongs to objects of increased danger.

Before proceeding with the independent construction of brick heating units, it is necessary to understand their main types and features of operation:

heating stoves - they are intended exclusively for heating the house. Their masonrycarried out quickly, since their device is simple (in more detail: "");
heating and cooking stoves - today they are considered the most popular and in demand. In addition to heating rooms, you can also cook food on them, saving good money on gas and other modern coolants (read: "");
for cooking, a special stove is built into the heating structure, and if desired, even an oven;
fireplace stoves - thanks to the installation of such units, you can save space in the house, thereby creating more comfortable conditions accommodation and provide efficient heating rooms (read: ""). It takes a little time to fire them up. Fireplace stoves have a presentable appearance that can decorate any room, as in a small country house, and in a luxurious country villa (read also: "").

Do-it-yourself stoves for the home are distinguished by shape. For country houses, rectangular, square or round structures are most often chosen, and such a variety of models allows you to choose the best option, based on the purpose and interior of a particular room.

In addition, regardless of the type, type and size of the fuel used, the stove must meet certain fire safety requirements. The base for a brick heating structure must certainly be concrete. See also: "".

Location of heating stoves

With independent arrangement furnace heating it is necessary to provide the most optimal location for the installation of the heating unit. If, for example, the structure is placed in the middle of the room, then its heat transfer will be the maximum possible, since it will heat the space from all sides, while evenly giving off heat to the air.

In the event that the stove is placed near the wall, the convection currents of cool air emanating from doors and windows will actively move around the house. As a result, with such an arrangement of the heating structure, residents will constantly feel cold, “stretching” along their legs.

Before laying the furnace device, it is required, according to the installation rules, to provide for the location of the combustion chamber door (read: ""). This is necessary so that you do not have to carry armfuls of firewood across the room, spreading dirt and soot. You can avoid such problems if you install the stove in the kitchen or in a sparsely visited room.

Types of base for heating structures

The drawings of furnaces for heating provide for the arrangement of a concrete floor or the presence of their own foundation. In the latter case, the base is made in such a way that it is designed to install the body of the structure and the walls of the leaning chimney pipe, as shown.

Main components:

fireman. When a stove is created in a house with your own hands, this element is one of the main parts of the heating unit. It must hold the maximum volume of firewood or other fuel to ensure the greatest performance of the structure. The size of the firebox can be different, since this parameter depends on the type of solid fuel (for firewood, the height of the chamber ranges from 40 to 100 centimeters), volume, and productivity. The firebox is laid out exclusively from refractory bricks, and the thickness of its walls should be at least half a brick.
Ash pan. This chamber is equipped with a door and is located directly under the grate. It is designed to collect ash and supply air to the fuel. The height of the ash pan is three bricks.
Chimney. One of the main elements that are available in every modern brick oven. Outwardly, it is similar to a coil, through which flue gases move, heating the air in the room. When a stove is created for heating a house, such as in the photo, when designing a chimney for a modern heating structure, experts do not recommend providing for a large number of turns and bends, since they create additional resistance to the movement of flue gases, resulting in a decrease in the efficiency of space heating.

Solution preparation

The stove can serve without fail for a long time, if the mortar is properly prepared for masonry. It is made from sand, clay and water. It must be tough, strong and durable at the same time. Preparing a clay-sand solution is simple: it will require clay, which is poured with water and soaked for at least a day. Then the mixture is passed through a sieve and stirred until the consistency of "clay milk" and only then the required amount of sand is added (read also: "").

Do-it-yourself stove will be durable and robust design, will last more than a dozen years, if the solution is done correctly. In the event that the building materials turn out to be of poor quality, and the bricklaying was carried out without observing the technologies, the heating unit will quickly fail and may even collapse.

Features of the furnace masonry process

Before you make a stove with your own hands, you should first make a foundation for it. Usually, bricklaying begins a month after the creation of the foundation. It is necessary to withstand a certain time so that the stove turns out to be efficient and of high quality, and the heating structure lasts a long time, without overhaul and rework while maintaining functionality and high performance.

The work on laying a brick oven is carried out in several stages:

First of all, lay out the ash chamber and the bottom of the first cap with a lid. Usually, a clay-sand mixture is used for masonry, which has high viscosity and strength.
Doors are mounted in brickwork, and they are fastened using galvanized wire.
A grate is installed above the ash pan. Then they proceed to the installation of the firebox, which is lined with fireclay bricks from the inside, placing it on the edge. In the manufacture of the solution, sand is used and chamotte clay. The furnace door is fixed with wire and a steel plate having a thickness of 2.5 mm. See also: "".
On the 12th row of brickwork, close the combustion chamber and then, using a level, mount a cast-iron stove with burners. In the left part of the structure, the laying of the first cap and the channel intended for the summer course is carried out.
After the installation of the plate is completed, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid out. On the left side, the construction of the lower cap continues.
In the cooking chamber in the inner row, a summer stroke valve is installed, which is necessary for kindling furnaces.
In the 20th row, the first of the caps and the cooking chamber are blocked. In solid brickwork, it is necessary to leave holes for the vent of the cooking compartment, the summer run and the lifting channel. To do this, the bricks are supported on steel corners in order to strengthen the heating structure and thereby increase its reliability.
At the cooking chamber, the portal should be closed with hinged fireplace doors. good decision there will be a supply of doors with inserts made of heat-resistant glass. With their presence, it becomes possible to control the combustion process and at the same time observe how the flames look. See also: "".
After overlapping the cooking chamber and the lower hood, with the help of two brick rows, they begin to lay out the upper hood. Cleaning doors are installed in convenient places to help remove soot.
The walls of the cap are erected almost to the top of the wall opening. At the top, the oven is covered with two rows of bricks. For the purpose of additional thermal insulation, the hole between the top of the unit and the overhanging jumper must be filled with mineral wool.
If a stove is made with your own hands, a decorative belt is placed along its upper perimeter and the installation of a pipe that removes flue gases begins. The ideal solution is brick chimney, because over time, metal and asbestos pipes often burn out. See also: "".

The original do-it-yourself stove is shown in the video: