Chimney channel in masonry. Do-it-yourself brick chimney: stages of construction. Required tools and materials

Chimneys are used to remove combustion products and generate draft in furnaces. By design and location relative to the furnace, chimneys are root, mounted and in the form of a channel in the main wall. Pipes installed on the furnace are called mounted pipes. This is actually a continuation of the smoke channel of the furnace; they are convenient because they do not take up space in the room. Indigenous chimneys are arranged in the form of a pipe riser standing separately at the furnace on its own foundation.

Their use is especially justified in wooden houses with a group arrangement of heating devices. In brick buildings, it is better to arrange smoke channels in the internal capital walls.

Wall chimneys do not take up living space and do not require the cost of materials.

The determination of the cross section of the smoke channel of the pipe is carried out depending on the heat transfer of the furnaces. The size of the cross-section of the channels must correspond to the amount of flue gases flowing through them and be at least 130x130mm for furnaces with heat transfer up to 3500W. For furnaces with a heat output of more than 3500W, the pipe section is made 130x250mm. For Russian stoves and fireplaces with a large portal, the chimney section is 260x260mm.

Depending on the size of the channel, the masonry is carried out in different ways: in four “four” bricks, five “pyaterik” bricks or six “six” bricks.

The chimney consists of the following parts:

Chimney masonry does not differ from stove masonry.

The difficulty is laying it at the place where it passes through the attic floor and the expansion device above the roof. The main requirement is the verticality of the array, dense filling of the joints, and the achievement of a smooth surface of the smoke channels.

The laying of the built-in pipe is a continuation of the laying of the furnace, since it is installed on its ceiling and is carried out on the same mortar until it passes through the attic floor.

At the point where the pipe passes through the ceiling, a horizontal cutting is arranged - the walls are widened. Horizontal cutting is done for fire safety.

The cutting and the pipe are placed simultaneously with the dressing of the seams, the outer wall gradually expands, and the inner channel goes in one section.

This is achieved by overlapping the outer masonry by 4 cm in each row.

Non-combustible thermal insulation, such as basalt mats, must be laid between the cutting and wooden beams.

In a freshly cut wooden house, cutting should be done taking into account the shrinkage of the walls, lowering it lower by 4% of the height of the walls.

It is better to lay the riser within the attic space using a beacon.

To do this, 2-3 rows of pipes are laid out above the cutting. A plumb line from the roof plane is lowered to one of the corners.

Masonry brick chimney

A nail is hammered into the point on the roof lathing from which the plumb line is lowered. A nylon thread is tied to the nail, and the lower end of the thread is tied to a nail hammered into the seam of the chimney masonry in the corner. The laying is carried out along this corner, checking after 3-4 rows with a square or measuring the diagonals.

The greatest difficulty is laying pipes above the roof.

There, the masonry is led to a complex clay-cement mortar. I make the solution like this: in the clay-sand mortar, from which the furnace is used, I add 1 liter of cement, a little water for 10 liters and mix thoroughly with a mixer.

If the pipe is laid without adding cement, then it may turn out like this.

The riser of the pipe is brought out above the lower edge of the roof by 2 rows and they start laying the otter - widening the pipe that protects the riser from atmospheric precipitation.

Lay it with careful dressing of seams. The first row is increased by a brick overlap by a quarter in one direction to form an overhang over the roof towards the slope. The second row begins the formation of an overhang from the sides and makes it an overlap on both sides of a quarter of a brick.

The inner walls of the channel are strictly vertical. Since the pipes can be of different sections, and the roof has a different slope, the otter is placed individually each time. Here is one of the options for the ordering of the otter and the ordering of the fluff.

Laying fluff is a rather laborious and time-consuming job. To increase productivity, fluff can be made of reinforced concrete. For reinforcement, 5-7 mm reinforcement is used at the rate of 4-5 bars on each side of the plate.

Two bars of reinforcement must necessarily lie on the brickwork.

The slab for fluffing can be made on site or separately with subsequent laying. In both cases, it is necessary to make formwork. When manufactured on site, the formwork is fixed as firmly as possible. The width of each side of the formwork must be at least 250mm from the "smoke". Between the fluff and the ceiling, it is imperative to put a heat-insulating material. In this photo it is two layers of 5mm asbestos.

When passing the ceiling with a double-circuit metal pipe, the hole in the ceiling is closed with a sheet of galvanized iron, on which a basalt insulation is placed and wrapped around the pipe.

Sometimes, to simplify laying, instead of laying an otter, I make such a belt.

Above the otter, put the neck of the pipe of the same section as the riser.

Finish laying with a head. To protect the pipe from atmospheric precipitation, it is desirable to install a cap made of galvanized iron or other material on it. The cap protects the upper part of the pipe and prevents the penetration of moisture into the channel.

The head of the pipe plays only a decorative role, it can not be done.

If a head is made at the pipe, then the internal section in this place should not change so that there are no swirls of smoke in the pipe.

In order for water not to stagnate on the horizontal surfaces of the otter and the head, they are plastered with a slope.

The height of the pipe above the roof has a significant effect on the operation of the furnace.

If the pipe is located in the zone of wind backwater, then in windy weather, smoke can go into the room. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to set the height of the pipe relative to the roof ridge according to the figure.

If you do not follow this rule, then this can happen.

After the laying of the pipe is completed, so that precipitation does not fall into the attic and does not damage the pipe riser, it is necessary to close the gap between the pipe and the roof with galvanized iron or other material.

Here is a version of the pipe without the otter.

To prevent water from flowing down the pipe under the roof, an incision is made through the pipe with a grinder to a depth of 10 mm.

Then the apron sheet is inserted and the groove is filled with sealant.

You can learn more about laying chimneys and working on the roof from the video guide “Do-it-yourself stoves”.

Here are pictures of the finished pipes.

Protective materials for wooden structures
Furnace pipe insulation: thermal insulation
You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation
Help - sandwich pipes
Pipe insulation in a traditional Russian bath
Protecting the oven from fire

If you decide to build a bath, then do not forget about the high-quality insulation of the stove, chimney, walls and ceiling. Otherwise, you may have serious problems with the ignition of the ceiling of the building. Therefore, we will try to dwell in more detail on the topical problem today - do-it-yourself pipe insulation in the bath.

Protective materials for wooden structures

Due to the fact that the chimney and the furnace heat up quickly, a fire can occur. Moreover, according to tradition, wood is the material for the bath.

Back in the old days, it was customary to insulate walls, a ceiling, a stove, a chimney with an asbestos layer, clay and other available materials that conduct heat energy rather poorly and are resistant to elevated temperatures.

So how to overlay the pipe from the stove today? Insulation of the chimney structure is necessary both for the purpose of fire safety and protection against condensate, so that cooling is slower and the smoke exhaust system lasts longer.

It is a mistake to think that a few metal sheets will be enough to isolate from fire, with which the ceiling around the chimney is upholstered. After all, the metal also heats up quickly, so it will not protect against fire, and as a heat insulator it will also not work.

Red brick is not always needed for pipe lining, although it is endowed with excellent thermal insulation properties.

The reason is that such a design is not suitable for every bath in design.

To better understand how to wrap a chimney pipe from fire, consider two options for insulating materials in the form:

Furnace pipe insulation: thermal insulation

This is a unique material, the structure of which includes foamed polyethylene, located between a pair of foil sheets.

With the help of thermal insulation, you can qualitatively insulate the chimney, and on your own.

The thickness of the thermal insulation varies from 2 to 10 mm, and the thicker the material, the greater its resistance to high temperatures.

The top layer of the foil serves as a reliable protection of the pipe from significant overheating. With the help of a wire or adhesive tape of a metal craftsman, a thermal insulation is attached, which is then wrapped around the chimney.

You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation

Modern material includes two layers: heat insulator and foil. The second - plays a reflective function and can save up to 90% of the thermal energy in the building. Folgoizol is a harmless material compared to other analogues, since compacted food acts as a foil. The material is resistant to ultraviolet and elevated temperatures within the range of -65 to +175 degrees Celsius, a good insulator.

Who still does not know how to insulate the chimney pipe in the sauna, we recommend covering the steam room ceiling, walls and chimney with foil insulation. As a result, you will get a room that is similar in design to a thermos. In the sauna, heat will remain, and the bath will quickly gain temperature, and then slowly cool down.

Help - sandwich pipes

For those who wish to equip a safe chimney in the bath, we suggest using a sandwich pipe.

This design includes several sections that are easily placed into each other, i.e. looks like a layered cake.

We lay out a brick chimney

Here are the main components of a sandwich pipe:

• stainless steel layer (inside);
• insulation in the form of basalt / mineral wool (in the middle);
• steel with zinc coating (outside).

This creative design represents the insulation of a chimney built into a common system and is designed to solve two problems at the same time:

• protection against soot accumulation inside;
• maintaining the optimum outside temperature.

It is easy to assemble a sandwich pipe on your own and use it for a sauna with an iron stove or a bath.

What to do if you built a Russian steam room with a brick stove? Below we will consider how to overlay the pipe in this situation in order to protect it from ignition.

Pipe insulation in a traditional Russian bath

At elevated temperatures, refractory red brick retains its operational properties, therefore it is in demand when building a chimney in a bath with a stone stove. In this case, you are guaranteed protection of the pipe from fire and long-term preservation of heat.

The service life of the structure depends on how competently the brick pipe is folded. Do not save on materials during the construction of the chimney, because.

then the repair will cost you much more.

Let's take a closer look at how to isolate the pipe in the bath from the ceiling:

1. With the help of asbestos, overlay the outlet of the pipe on the ceiling and through the roof.
2. Using galvanized material, insulate the walls from the inside of the pipe.

   Standard iron sheets are completely unsuitable for this purpose due to their tendency to corrode.

3. Run a box around the pipe at the points of its passage through the ceiling.
4. Pour expanded clay inside the box to retain heat and protect wooden floors from ignition.

You professionally wrapped the pipe, but the work on arranging the chimney did not end there.

The next step is to insulate the furnace, ceiling and walls of the bath.

Protecting the oven from fire

Modern metal stoves are mounted on a foundation, while sheathing with sheets of the same material at the back and side of the wall. If you yourself beat the furnace only with metal, then its appearance will not be very aesthetic. It is better to make the outer masonry with red brick, which isolates the stove from fire and retains heat in the bath.

Due to the fact that asbestos releases toxic substances at elevated temperatures, it is not recommended to use it in a steam room.

Natural felt is considered harmless, which, moreover, is a good insulator. At a price, this material is more expensive than asbestos sheets, and when smoldering, it emits a specific smell (felt does not light up), which can be immediately felt.

If you intend to install the stove on a wooden floor, then first it is better to lay a felt material in a couple of layers, then lay out a brick in three rows. For walls and floors, it is advised to lay sheets of metal as an insulator, the height of which varies from 50 to 70 cm.

And you will no longer have questions about how to wrap the chimney pipes.

Before starting construction work, smoke brick channels must be prepared, corresponding to the special design of the furnace, the features of the internal layout of the premises, the structural differences of the roof.

Further, until they cover the neck of the cut (blank). It should be noted that regardless of the external size of the inner section, the vertical smoke along the entire length is the same and is approximately 140x270 millimeters (average parameters, but in fact it may vary depending on the power of the heater and the size of the smoke).

After five rows of doors, the cut begins to adhere to the external dimensions of the first row of approximately 590 x 450 mm, which is achieved by inserting half and a quarter of the bricks. To avoid deflection in the flue section, insert 60mm brick slabs inserted inside. In the third row, the dimensions of the brick chimney change again and are already 510 × 650 millimeters.

Brick slabs are also inserted inside. The outer dimensions of the fourth row are made of 570 × 710 millimeters, and inside - bricks with a thickness of 90-100 millimeters. The fifth and sixth lines are made of solid brick and strictly follow the dress code. If necessary, cutting can be continued for another type.

After the wall is completed, the brick-and-brick structure is moved to the attic, where the hoist is installed.

To reach it outside, there must be a first opening on the roof. The foundation is built very quickly and easily, since it involves the implementation of conventional masonry and does not require manipulation of the dimensions of the pipes.

When it comes to the roof, all work moves towards the roof. The vortex pattern continues to rise one or two rows above the roof, after which the construction of the otter begins.

This segment of the chimney consists of nine types, while it is arranged so that the outer dimension of each successive row exceeds the previous block of bricks.

At the same time, the size of the smoke channel must remain the same, so carefully select the interior panels with which it is configured. At the beginning, the bricks are laid in such a way that only one gap is formed in front, and the external size of the chimney does not change at the edges. In the third row, the otter becomes wider due to the front bricks, which means that the front ledge gradually begins to appear on the sides.

In the fourth line, the side projections increase in length. The more their length increases in the fifth line, the greater the difference between the chimney and the roof slab. In the sixth order, this gap is almost completely closed, and in the seventh case, the formation of the side surfaces is completed.

As a result of all the transformations described above, an anterior and two lateral projections are formed, the last protrusions remain.

As you can see, at the moment there is nothing that even many experienced builders would ask the question of how to build a brick chimney, because the matter is quite complicated and requires the most attention and compliance with all technological requirements.

The last fourth projections are formed in the eighth order. Of particular importance is the observation of the ligation of bricks and the careful selection of brick slabs, which allow the smoke channel to remain unchanged with a constant change in the external dimensions of the pipe.

Brick chimney - we build a reliable structure independently

Finally, the ninth type of otter is defined similarly to the eighth, and at the same time, the neck of the chimney already begins at this stage. Its size may vary depending on the height of the chimney. At this stage, you must adhere to the rules and regulations that apply to the height of the chimney above the roof, as this will have serious consequences for the draft during the operation of the stove (see "Chimney with hands").

So, we figured out how to build a brick chimney, but you need to look for some of the nuances and problems that you will have to face in the process.

During the implementation of the wall, it is necessary to control the thoroughness of the ligation of bricks with each other, especially for half, quarter and other parts and brick slabs.

It won't be much of a problem for a skilled stove worker to distribute a portion of the required size from an entire brick, but for those with little experience it can be very difficult.

The best way out of this position is to buy a special grinder. This makes it easy to obtain masonry elements for the chimney of the required size, which is especially important if the panels are needed to form a smoke channel between the cutter or otters.

It is important to remember that the thickness of the seam directly affects the strength of the brick, and because it is thinner, the chimney will become stronger.

In this regard, you must carefully measure the location of the future installation, in accordance with these data, use the cutting line of the knives, and only after that you cut. Sometimes it may even be necessary for some bricks to be irregular in shape, so a mistake here can cost broken bricks and waste time.

To summarize all of the above, it is easy to understand that it is very difficult to install a brick chimney with your own hands on a person who does not have enough experience.

But don't give up, because this is an easy way for beginners to take advantage of the building. Also read: "Do-it-yourself wind chimney."

Alternative brick chimney design

If the above method of laying a chimney seems too difficult and impossible for someone, then don't give up and don't give up. There is an alternative way to install a brick chimney that has the least amount of skill. This means making normal masonry, in which the entire chimney that emerges from the pipe and ends with the head will be of the same size.

There is a logical question: what in this case cuts and tears? They will also be, but they will also be made of concrete. Also read: "Chimney diagram for a gas boiler."

Brick brick for gas boilers and ventilation, detailed video instruction:

Before starting work, it is necessary to first place metal rods, wire or fittings with a diameter of 5-7 millimeters.

When installing a chimney in places where it is necessary to cut an otter, the envelope parts must be installed in brick. It is important to ensure that metal elements do not cross the smoke channel. After completing the chimney wall, it is only necessary to install the support in the right place, prepare the cement mortar and fill it (see also: “Do-it-yourself chimney cleaning - methods”).

As you can see, even without a lot of experience and with minimal brick brick knowledge, your hands for building a chimney without resorting to the help of builders, but instead opted for the installation of metal pipes, which, when performed, are much worse than brick chimneys.

If you have something that does not work right away, without panic, just study the circuit more carefully, see the advice of experienced craftsmen, try to figure out what is causing the problems, the next attempt will surely be successful.

The reward for hard work and inertia will be a good and functional chimney that will last over a decade and keep your heating equipment working properly.

Also read: "Chimney installation in the bathroom."

The technology of laying a brick chimney in itself is quite simple and understandable, since, unlike the brick oven itself, the pipe usually does not have internal channels that are complex in configuration. However, despite the relative simplicity of the design, one cannot but take into account the enormous importance of this department of the furnace, since the quality of the heating of the house and the safety of both the building itself and the people living in it directly depend on it.

Therefore, in order for all the work to be successful, it is necessary to approach it with the utmost care, relying on the recommendations of experienced craftsmen and on the developed and tested design schemes.
When erecting a chimney, it should be remembered that the evenness of the inner walls of the channel is no less important than the aesthetics of the outer masonry. Not only the stability of the required draft in the furnace depends on this circumstance, but also the duration of operation of the chimney without cleaning, since the smoke rising through the pipe leaves on smooth walls, without protruding mortar and deep seams, a much smaller amount of fuel combustion waste, and the channel overgrows much slower.

What are brick chimneys?
Chimneys of brick ovens can be of different types, depending on the place of their installation, the design of the furnace, and also on how many heaters will be connected to the pipe. So, there are three main types of chimney brick pipes: these are mounted, root and wall.

Mounted chimneys. The most widely used constructions are packed pipes. They are good because they are compact and do not take up any additional space in the room at all, but are simply a vertical continuation of the furnace.
A mounted chimney is, in fact, a continuation of the furnace up. Very often, the ordering of the furnace immediately includes the layout of the initial section of the pipe.
They are erected on top of the last row of bricks covering the furnace, around the left hole.

Then the pipe is passed through the attic floor, attic, truss system and rises above the roof.

Root chimneys. This type of pipe is installed in cases where it is planned to connect a metal stove to it, or several heating appliances located on one or even several floors.

The root chimney allows you to connect metal furnaces to it. As well as several heating devices located at different levels of the building.
In addition to metal, brick ovens can also be connected to such a pipe. This type of chimney is especially convenient if it is necessary to build two stoves in the house in neighboring rooms.

For example, for the kitchen you need a stove with a hob, and for the next room - only a heating one. In order not to lay out a separate pipe for each of them, a root chimney is built between the rooms, to which both heaters are connected.

Not only two, but also three or four stoves located on different floors of the house can be connected to a pipe of this type. In any case, it is necessary to calculate the size of the internal chimney channel very accurately, otherwise normal draft may not be ensured when several devices are operating simultaneously.

Wall chimneys are built near the main (external or internal) walls or built into them. They can be used, just like the main ones, to connect several furnaces located on different floors of the building.

The convenience of this design lies in the fact that it is, as it were, outside the living quarters, without occupying their area. For example, on the first floor of the house a fireplace can be built and connected to the wall chimney (there the pipe will be more similar to a wall-mounted one according to the principle of structure), and on the second floor a smoke outlet of a metal stove is embedded (as in the version with a root requirement).

The disadvantages of this version of the chimney are the considerable cost of the project and the complexity of the work. Firstly, the construction of this structure will require much more building material.

Secondly, the chimney, if it is partially on the street, requires serious insulation measures, otherwise in winter, with temperature changes, condensate will form in the internal channels, which will significantly reduce the efficiency of the heater. Therefore, if this chimney option is chosen, then it would be more prudent to sacrifice the indoor area and lead the pipe along the inner wall of the house.

Parameters of brick chimneys
The main sections of the brick chimney
A brick chimney is divided into departments that have an owl purpose and are named differently.

These features must be immediately clarified so that in the future it will be easier to understand the description of the work on the construction of the pipe (Figure 5).
1 - Pipe head. Laying out this part of the chimney, the bricks are shifted to the outside to form a kind of “visor”, as if hanging over the lower sections, partially protecting the walls of the chimney from precipitation.

2 - The neck of the pipe is located immediately below the head and has the same perimeter over its entire height, without protrusions, extensions or narrowing.
3 - "Otter" has a more complex masonry scheme, since a protective function is assigned to it. Firstly, the “otter” masonry, hanging over the gap formed at the junction of the roofing material and the pipe walls, closes it from the penetration of precipitation, and forms a space for the installation of a waterproofing material.

Secondly, its expanded walls become a guarantee of safety - at the place of passage through the roofing, due to the increased thickness, the necessary level of thermal insulation is created.
4 - A metal or other sheet (apron), mounted in the lower part of the otter, forms a kind of ebb, which closes the junction of the brick wall of the pipe and the roofing material.

5 - "Fluffing" - this expanded part of the pipe, located in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits passage through the attic floor.

The walls of the "fluff", like the "otter", are thicker than other flat sections of the chimney - this is necessary for fire safety, since the attic floor very often consists of flammable materials, and they cannot be allowed to overheat.

6 - Roofing structure.
7 - The riser is a straight section of the pipe, which has an even masonry along the entire height and is located in the attic space from the “fluff” to the “otter”.
8 - Attic floor.

9 - An umbrella cap is often fixed on top of the head, which will protect the internal chimney channel from water and debris entering it.

The main function of the chimney is to effectively remove combustion products from the combustion chamber into the atmosphere.

How to build a brick chimney: a storehouse of useful tips for self-building

To do this, the chimney is connected to numerous channels located in the furnace structure, with which it must interact harmoniously. If the stove and chimney are built correctly, in accordance with the developed parameters, then during the operation of the heater, good draft should be created inside the channels, which will contribute to the timely removal of smoke to the street. However, at the same time, this should not lead to the fact that the heat generated by it will fly out of the furnace literally “into the pipe”.

In a word, everything needs a “golden mean”.

Scheme of the correct ratio of the height of the chimney pipe, depending on the location on the roof (Figure 6):
If the chimney exits through the roof covering at a distance L1 not exceeding 1500 mm from the ridge (when measured horizontally), then its upper end edge must be raised above the ridge by at least 500 mm.
The chimney pipe passing through the roof at a distance of 1500 to 3000 mm from the ridge (L2 in the diagram) must be at least at the level of the ridge.

The chimney, installed from the ridge more than 3000 mm (L3), must, with its upper edge, be located on a conditional line drawn through the point of the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizontal.

In any of the above cases, regardless of the distance to the ridge, the height of the pipe above the roofing cannot be less than 500 mm. This fully applies to all flat roofs.

At the end of the topic of chimney parameters, there is an important remark. Do-it-yourself calculations are great, but the role of a properly designed and built chimney is so important (both for heating efficiency and for safety) that professional design is always the best option.

Self-activity in such responsible matters is a very risky business.

A brick chimney is a classic solution that has been used in everyday life for quite a long time and does not lose its popularity, despite the fact that more and more modern solutions are being introduced today.

This structure is being built at the stage of building the object and can have a different configuration.

1. Features of brick chimneys
2. Types of bricks used for the chimney
3. Pros and cons of brick construction
4. Preparation for work
5. Step by step description of work
6. Features and nuances of masonry

A little about chimneys made of bricks

The heating system and the outflow of combustion products in the house must be organized without fail.

For this purpose, in particular, a brick chimney is used, through which exhaust air is removed during the operation of heating appliances. Usually, a diverting structure made of such material is used for single heating and heating devices.

By configuration, a brick chimney can be square or round.

But the second option will cost more due to the complexity of the masonry. The diverting structure is being built in parallel with the construction of the walls of the building. Today it is allowed to build a chimney with a side length of at least 140 mm, and if the configuration is round, then the diameter should be 140 mm. In former times, the allowable limit was 150 mm.

We watch a video, a little about the installation work of a brick chimney:

The thickness of the walls is also regulated by certain standards.

It is not recommended to violate the integrity of the structure with holes for the cable and so on. The brick chimney must be solid, and in addition to this, the inner surface of the pipe must be as smooth as possible, without brick protrusions and cement sagging at the seams.

Type of brick for chimney and their features

Gas heating determines the type of material used in the construction of the outlet structure.

The difference between them lies in the value of the maintained temperature.

So, in the first case we are talking about 800 degrees, and in the second - about 1,000 degrees.

All other options, such as lightweight, porous or hollow material, are prohibited. Unlike the walls of the house, brick chimneys of various types cannot be plastered from the inside.

The erection of different parts of the structure is marked by the use of a cement mortar that is different in composition.

For that part of the chimney, which is located above the roof, a cement-sand working mixture is used.

Brick chimney - what you need to know

For laying below the roof level, cement-lime or lime mortar should be used.

If we compare brick chimneys of various types with other structures, for example, with a sandwich chimney, then in this case a single-walled solution is used. "Sandwich" is a double-walled version, that is, it is assumed that the chimney consists of two pipes: a larger and a smaller diameter.

Advantages and disadvantages of brick construction

Brick chimneys of various types have gained a high degree of popularity due to a number of features that will be discussed below:

• Increased resistance to high temperatures, as already mentioned, fireclay bricks withstand a limit of up to 1,000 degrees, while combustion products from the stove and fireplace reach the border of 750 degrees;
• An increased degree of thermal conductivity ensures a high efficiency of heating equipment, since brick chimneys of various types do not contribute to the rapid outflow of heat;
• The cost of construction from this material is low;
• Aesthetic value is no less important, especially in cases where a building is built in a certain style.

But in addition to the advantages, a brick square chimney has a number of significant disadvantages:

• The corners of the structure contribute to the formation of vortex flows, which in turn are a factor in counteracting the outflow of combustion products;
• The walls of the discharge structure are not always perfectly smooth, which contributes to the deposition of soot on the rough surface, and this eventually leads to a decrease in the working space, as a result of which traction deteriorates;
• Regular exposure to aggressive environments and temperature changes, which contributes to the formation of condensate, leads to the fact that the chimneys for red brick stoves are gradually destroyed.

In view of the foregoing, and also, taking into account the features of other types of diverting structures, the user decides for himself which option is preferable.

But still, the most common today is the laying of a brick chimney.

Preparation for work

The beginning of construction work of any type is the preparation of a project. In order for the outlet structure to function effectively, it is necessary to take into account a number of rules:

1. The dimensions of the pipe, namely its height and diameter, are determined by the characteristics of the heating equipment. But a brick multi-format chimney pipe cannot be less than 5 m.

   The relationship between these parameters and the traction force is obvious, since the larger the pipe section with insufficiently powerful heating equipment, the weaker the air outflow will be. And if the pipe diameter is too small, then even if there is sufficient height, the chimneys for red brick stoves will “smoke”.

2. The construction of the outlet structure in rooms that are well heated is carried out without pipe insulation.

   But on the site adjacent to the ceiling (up to 60 cm in length), the sandwich structure is mounted.

3. The construction of a brick chimney implies the need to provide free access for maintenance. For this, the butt joints of the structure are located at different levels with the ceiling. Otherwise, if difficulties arise in the operation of the system, it will be very problematic to get to the desired section of the pipe.

Watch the video, the beginning of the pipe:

It is important to have a good idea of ​​what elements make up the construction of a brick chimney.

So, the main components of the design:

• Overhead pipe - conducted from the furnace itself;
• Fluffing - this is the name of the laying of a brick chimney pipe, which is made with a broadening of up to 300 mm, but at the same time the original inner diameter of the pipe is preserved;
• Riser - rises in the attic and leads to the very roof;
• Otter - laying a chimney pipe, which is carried out with a widening of up to 100 mm and is an obstacle to the penetration of precipitation into the room;
• Neck - built on the principle of a riser and erected immediately after the otter;
• The head is the last section with a broadening that crowns the pipe.

Description of works

About what kind of brick a multi-format chimney is laid, it has already been said above.

Having dealt with the stages of work, you can proceed to the beginning of the masonry:

1. An overhead pipe is being built. Laying is carried out by means of a dressing method. At this stage, you should stop before reaching about 6 brick rows to the ceiling.
2. A do-it-yourself chimney made of red brick is further built with a broadening, which is called fluff.

   The recommended dimensions of this element are: 140X270 mm along the inner perimeter of the pipe, and 590X450 mm are selected from the outside. Construction is carried out using plates to get the desired result. The next row has the following parameters: 510x650 mm, while plates with a thickness of 60 mm are also used. The result is a row with dimensions of 570x710 mm. When the widening is ready, another row of the same dimensions is erected, taking into account the dressing.

3. A brick multi-format chimney for a metal furnace is built further in size than the overhead pipe, but above the fluff.

   This part is called the riser. At this stage, you must first prepare the outlet for the pipe in the roof.

4. Chimneys for red brick stoves are built after the riser is taken out of the roof no higher than 2 rows. Then the laying of the otter begins. This is another extension. In height, this section is equal to nine rows, each of which is wider than the previous one by about half a brick. Brick plates are still installed inside the widening. As you can see, it is really possible to build a brick multi-format chimney for a metal furnace and other heating equipment on your own, but these sections with broadening are the main difficulty.
5. When thinking about how to build a red brick chimney with the highest quality, one should take into account the need to block the hole formed between the roof and the pipe.

   This is done by increasing the width of the rows of bricks.

6. When choosing which brick is suitable for the chimney, you need to take into account the aesthetic side of the issue. Since during the construction of the neck it is desirable that its quality and color harmoniously fit into the overall picture of the house.

   The head is built on the principle of fluff.

Masonry features

In addition to which brick to choose for the chimney, you should also pay attention to the thickness of the seams. The thinner they are, the more durable the structure can be as a result. If it was not possible to give a beautiful shape to the widenings, you can correct the flaws with a concrete mixture.

We watch a detailed video, the stages of work:

The sleeve of a brick multi-format chimney is not a prerequisite.

But such a measure allows you to get a completely sealed pipe, which will increase the reliability and efficiency of the design. The sleeve involves the installation of a stainless steel pipe inside the brick walls of the chimney. This option is only possible on straight sections.

Thus, in addition to the main stages of work, there are a number of nuances that you also need to know about in advance so that the chimney design turns out without flaws and lasts as long as possible.

1

Last revision: 05/15/2017

The pipe is used to remove exhaust gases from a home stove or fireplace during their combustion. There are two types of chimneys: mounted - with its base rests directly on the stove, and root - is assembled as a separate structure. For self-construction of a brick chimney, read this article with recommendations from the best craftsmen.

Requirements

In accordance with the norms of SNiP (building codes and rules), when building a brick chimney, as well as during its possible reconstruction, the following requirements are met:

1. When laying the working channel, horizontal sections of the exhaust gas wiring should not be formed. If it is impossible to do without them, it is allowed to use horizontal segments with a total length of not more than 100 cm.
2. In the case of a flat roof, the outer part of the chimney rises above its surface by at least 100 cm.

With a pitched roof, the requirements for the outside look a little different:

• when the distance from the pipe outlet to the ridge line is less than 150 cm, the first one is at least 50 cm higher than it;
• if the specified distance reaches 300 cm - the pipe is installed flush with the ridge;
• when they are more than 300 cm apart from each other, the upper cut of the chimney pipe must coincide with a conditional line extended at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizon of the ridge.

Masonry of the lower section

Before laying down a brick chimney, you should familiarize yourself with its design from the following elements:

1. Sealant sealant.
2. Upper cone made of stainless steel.
3. Lightweight roofing slab ("under brickwork").
4. Facial laying.
5. Thermal insulation.
6. Ventilation channel.
7. Chamotte channel.
8. Console (base) plate.
9. Additional ventilation holes.

You will need this tool:

• ordinary trowel (trowel);
• construction plumb;
• electric drill with a nozzle;
• level of any type, roulette.

Note! A prerequisite for the assembly of a brick chimney is the use of a pre-prepared clay solution mixed with clean and dry sand for its laying. Follow the verticality of the structure in relation to the horizon, carefully controlling it with the help of a plumb line throughout the entire length of the exhaust duct. Drive in a couple of nails in the upper and lower parts and stretch a strong twine between them, focusing on which it will be possible to control the strict verticality of the masonry.

Making "fluff"

Expansion of the chimney brick channel, arranged in the ceiling slab, eliminates the possibility of thermal exposure to flammable parts of the ceiling structure.

This structural element is usually made of either brick or concrete. But simple insulation of the passage section is allowed with a special material that does not support combustion (basalt mineral wool, for example). In the latter case, the insulation plate has a minimum thickness of 10 cm.

Let us consider in more detail the arrangement of "fluff" from traditional material. It is necessary to strictly follow the order of laying, with the expansion of each subsequent row by about 4 cm.

Note! The height of the resulting element should not be lower than the inter-attic floor in the structure. Upon completion of the construction of this part of the canal, the junction with the building structure must be laid on all sides with a thick layer of special fire-resistant sheet asbestos at least 1 cm thick.

Upon completion of the “fluffing” design, the remaining part of the chimney channel (up to the plane of the roofing) is laid in the same way as before the expansion, with the obligatory control of all plumbing operations.

Arrangement of the "otter"

The chimney must have another extension, called an “otter”, arranged outside above the roof plane. Such a construct is necessary to protect the upper part from adverse climatic influences.

For buildings with different angles of roof slope, the design of this type of element will have certain features, which you can find in special sources.

Note! With all possible versions of the “otter”, the laying of this section of the chimney is always done with the addition of dry cement to the masonry mortar in a ratio of 1:10 and the addition of a small amount of water.

The order in which an external extension is laid out

From the roof level, two rows of bricks are laid, the third row is laid with an offset in one plane outward by 1/4. It is important that a quarter shift is made only in one direction! Subsequent rows are laid exactly with the same 1/4 offset, but it is already done from 2 sides, that is, in the direction of two perpendicular planes relative to the offset of the previous row.

Make sure that the size of the inner channel does not change along its entire length.

Below is a selection of photos and diagrams of different designs of brick chimneys.

A photo

A do-it-yourself chimney for a stove can be erected if there is a masonry scheme at hand, and the home master himself has at least minimal skills in the work of a bricklayer. The construction of this department requires no less serious approach than, since the efficiency of heating, the safety of those living in the house, and the overall life of the entire heating structure will depend on the quality of its masonry.

When working on a chimney, it must be remembered that its internal surfaces must be as neat and even as the external ones, since this factor directly affects the creation of good traction.

Varieties of brick chimneys

Chimney pipes are divided into types depending on the location of their installation relative to the furnace itself. So, they are root, mounted and wall.

• The most common design of a brick chimney is a wall-mounted one. It is installed directly on top of the heater and is its continuation. Such chimneys are often installed during the construction of a heating or bath stove.

• The second most popular is the root chimney. This type of pipe is distinguished by the fact that it is installed next to the furnace or is included in its design and is placed on one of its sides.

Root pipes can be installed for both brick and cast iron stoves. In addition, one root structure is often used for several heaters. For example, in a two or three-story house, one chimney is passed through all floors and furnaces are connected to it. If it is planned to use the pipe in this way, then in this case, an accurate calculation of its parameters must be made, otherwise there will be no normal draft, which means that the efficiency of the furnaces will also decrease, and the risk of combustion products entering the premises will increase.

• The wall pipe is built into the main internal or external walls. But, in the latter case, the walls of the chimney will have to be very well insulated, since due to the large difference in external and internal temperatures, condensate will actively collect inside the duct, which will significantly impair the operation of the furnace, reducing draft and contributing to the rapid growth of the chimney with soot.

It should be noted that although this structure is distinguished by a separate type, it can be both root and mounted.

Construction of a brick chimney

The chimney has several sections. To understand its fundamental design, we can take the structure of a packed pipe as an example, since most often it is the design engineers who choose it when drawing up furnace ordering schemes.

So, the design of the extension pipe with its passage through the attic floor and the truss system includes the following departments and elements:

1 - Metal cap or umbrella. It can have a variety of forms, but its function is always to protect the interior of the chimney from the penetration of various types of precipitation, as well as dust and dirt.

2 - The head of the pipe consists of bricks protruding outward, which will protect the neck of the structure from raindrops that will flow down the protective cap. The metal umbrella is fixed, including on the protruding parts of the head.

3 - The neck of the pipe.

4 - Cemented or otherwise waterproofed inclined surface of the otter, designed to drain water that has fallen on the neck of the pipe.

5 - Otter. This part of the structure has thicker walls than the pipe neck. The otter should be located at the point where the chimney passes through the rafter system and the roof. The thick walls of the otter will protect the combustible materials of the crate under the roof from overheating.

6 - Roofing material.

7 - Lathing of the truss system.

8 - Rafter.

9 - Pipe riser. This department is located in the attic of the house.

10 - Fluff. This part of the chimney starts under the ceiling inside the house, passes through the attic floor and ends in the attic, just above or flush with the floor beams. The fluff, like the otter, has thicker walls than the neck and riser of the pipe. The increased thickness also protects wooden beams and other combustible materials of the attic or interfloor floor from overheating.

It should be noted that in some cases, instead of fluffing in its place, a metal box is mounted around the pipe, filled with non-combustible materials, such as sand, vermiculite or expanded clay. The functions of this layer, having a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm, are also the protection of combustible floor materials from overheating.

11 - Floor beams.

12 - Insulation, which is most often made from asbestos, is in any case necessary to create fire safety, since the walls of the chimney will come into contact with the wood of the floor beams and other materials that make up the floor and ceiling.

13 - Smoke damper, located in the room, in the upper part of the pipe, which allows you to adjust the intensity of the discharged streams of heated air and combustion products.

14 - The neck of the pipe, which begins at the top of the furnace - the ceiling.

Calculations of the parameters of the chimney pipe

The principle of operation of the chimney system is the movement of air masses from the combustion chamber to the exit to the street, that is, from the lower point to the upper one. This process occurs through the creation of traction, which occurs due to temperature and pressure changes. It is thanks to all these factors that the normal functioning of the chimney system is carried out.

To create optimal aerodynamic processes, the size of the pipe channel must correspond to the power of the furnace, which, in turn, largely depends on the size of the furnace. The surfaces of the internal chimney space must have smooth walls, along which the air flows will slide freely without turbulence, and due to this, no reverse draft will be created. That is why quite often an insert from a round ceramic pipe is built into a brick square chimney, which has an absolutely smooth surface and no internal corners.

Section size

In connection with the factors mentioned, it is necessary to carefully calculate the internal size of the chimney, while taking into account its length, since the larger this parameter, the higher the draft in the pipe.

Of great importance for the creation of normal traction and the high-quality functioning of the heating device is the correspondence of the parameters of the chimney passage and power, as well as the size and number of channels provided for by the design and passing inside the furnace.

If the parameters of the internal dimensions of the chimney in the cross section exceed the calculated value, this will lead to a rapid cooling of the heated air in it and the formation of condensate, and hence a decrease in thrust. In this case, the necessary balance will be violated, and the streams cooling in the upper part of the pipe may return down, creating smoke in the room.

The size of the chimney opening is calculated as follows:

• The size of the chimney of an open hearth fireplace corresponds approximately to the proportions of 1:10 (chimney section (f) / firebox window area (F)). This formula generally works for both a square or rectangular, and a cylindrical type of pipe, but not directly, but taking into account the cross-sectional shape of the channel and the total height of the chimney.
• The size of the chimney of a furnace with a closed combustion chamber has a proportion of 1:1.5. In the case when the heat transfer of the heating structure is less than 300 kcal / h, then the cross section usually has a size of 130 × 130 mm or half a brick (at least). When making calculations, it must be taken into account that the cross-sectional size of the chimney should not be less than the inlet of the blower.

When calculating the fireplace chimney, you can use the following table.

Pipe height H, m		5	6	7	8	9	10	11
		f/F ratio in %
Pipe section	Round	11.2	10.5	10	9.5	9.1	8.7	8.9
	square	12.4	11.6	11	10.5	10.1	9.7	9.4
	Rectangular	13.2	12.3	11.7	11.2	10.6	10.2	9.8

Pay attention to the direct dependence of the chimney cross-section not only on the parameters of the furnace, but also on the height of the pipe. Probably, sometimes in the calculations it will be more expedient to build on this parameter. For example, a pipe 11 meters high on a one-story country house will look absolutely ridiculous.

The same dependence, but more accurately represented in the form of a graph.

Suppose you need to calculate the cross section of the chimney for a fireplace with a firebox, the window dimensions of which are 500×700 mm, that is, the total area - 0.35 m². It is assumed that a pipe with a total height of 7 meters.

• Let's look at the graphic scheme:

- for a circular section of the chimney, the optimal ratio f/F=9.9%;

- for square - 11,1% ;

- for rectangular - 11,7% .

• It is easy to calculate the optimal cross-sectional area of ​​​​the chimney channel:

- a circle: 0.35×0.099 = 0.0346 m²;

- square: 0.35 × 0.11 = 0.0385 m²;

- rectangle: 0.35 × 0.117 = 0.041 m².

• Now, using the simplest geometric formulas, it is easy to bring areas to linear dimensions:

- diameter of the round pipe: d = 2×√S/π = 2×√0.0346/3.14 ≈ 0.209 m = 210 mm.

- side of the square tube: a = √S = √0.0385 ≈ 0.196 m = 196 mm.

- a rectangle can have different options - for example 0.130 × 0.315 m or 130×315mm.

The calculation will be much easier if you use the calculator below, which already contains all the mentioned dependencies.

• Although the thickness of the walls at the fluff is large, it is worth making thermal insulation around it, while passing through the ceiling. To do this, you need to use asbestos soaked in clay, felt, or make a metal box and fill it with sand or expanded clay. The fluff must be insulated over the entire thickness of the building floor.
• When the cap is laid, it is recommended to proceed with the waterproofing of the pipe passage through the roof. The durability of the structure depends on the waterproofing. With the help of an apron, the space that has formed between the roof and the chimney is covered. After that, an apron from a profile or from a waterproofing tape is superimposed on top. With the help of a sealant, such a tape is attached to the roof, and it is fixed on the chimney with a bar.

• When doing brickwork with your own hands, it is necessary to get rid of excess mortar from the middle of the channel, then the surface will be even and less soot will collect on it.
• Particular attention must be paid to dressing. And so that the pieces of bricks are even, it is better to use a grinder in your work, then it will be possible to saw off the desired piece without difficulty, and the edges will remain even.
• By making the joints in the masonry better to be about 5 millimeters, thick joints will not be reliable. Thin seams will be strong and last a long time, since clay is highly susceptible to destruction from moisture and heat, and other natural factors.
• It is recommended to clean the finished chimney in time, but it is better to do preventive maintenance from time to time so that serious pollution does not occur.

It is quite difficult to lay a chimney, as you will have to work at a height and you need to be very careful. Before starting work, evaluate your strengths and capabilities, and if in doubt that you can do it, it is better to turn to specialists for help.

If you do everything according to the instructions and follow the recommendations of experts, then the brick chimney will turn out to be strong and reliable, your house will be warm and protected.

Dismantling a brick pipe

Old brick structures not only perform their function poorly, but in some cases can also threaten human life. Such chimneys in most cases are unprofitable and should be demolished.

The dismantling of a brick chimney is quite simple: the pipe is disassembled into elements (by brick). Dismantling always begins with the part that is located on the roof. Gradual advancement from it to the furnace is the basic principle of work. For reliable adhesion of bricks on the outer part of the pipe, cement is always added to the mortar, so this dismantled section is quite difficult to disassemble. Dismantling brick flue pipes is even more difficult.

After the dismantling of the outer pipe is completed, it is necessary to dismantle the section located in the attic of the building.

Note! Before starting the dismantling of a brick pipe in the attic, it is imperative to cover the resulting hole in the roof. For this, an iron sheet or, for example, a metal tile remaining from the installation of the roof is suitable.

In order to prevent unwanted collapse of the plaster from the ceiling, it is necessary to equip the pipe with special strobes. A solution of sand and clay can be easily broken with a hammer or any improvised object.

You need to disassemble the old chimney starting from the outside

What are chimneys

Depending on what kind of stove the chimney is made in the house indigenous or mounted.

• Indigenous chimneys are made separately from the furnace itself, after which they are connected to the furnace using a pipe. The root chimney is very well suited for brick or cast-iron heating, while several stoves can be connected to one such chimney at the same time. With this type of connection, the chimney must be made in a certain size, in accordance with the standards.
  If you make such a chimney for a gas cast iron stove or gas boiler, it is better to insert inside metal pipe. To install a root chimney, it is necessary to make a separate foundation, while its depth must be at least 30 centimeters, and the perimeter must be made 15 centimeters larger than the structure itself.
• The mounted pipe is a full-fledged continuation of the furnace design. Such a pipe is made if it is necessary to get rid of combustion waste from only one furnace.

Chimneysolid fuel the boiler is more complex, inside it there are a different number of channels. Also, the chimney can be boiler or stove, fireplace, for barbecue, for a bath.

What is a chimney made of?

Installation of both types of chimney is done according to the same principle, only for root chimneys for several furnaces it may be necessary to equip several risers and cuttings,
the number of which directly depends on the number of floors in the house. The main parts of the chimney can be seen in the drawing diagram.

1. Smoke damper;
2. Insulation;
3. Beam with overlap;
4. fluff;
5. pipe riser;
6. Rafter;
7. Roof;
8. Otter;
9. crate;
10. cement mortar;
11. Pipe neck;
12. pipe head;
13. The cap is metal.

chimney neck- a component that is made from the oven to cutting. A smoke valve is made in it, with the help of which, in the future, traction is regulated. By itself, thrust is needed to adjust the force of combustion or smoldering.

fluff must be done at the pipe passage, taking into account each overlap, it is done to protect the overlap from exposure to high temperatures. Its walls are very thick, it is desirable that the thickness be about 35 - 40 centimeters, this allows you to make insulation around the perimeter up to 25 centimeters.

Pipe riser they call a brick pillar in which there is a chimney channel in the middle, it is made before cutting, as well as in the attic floor.

Neck the pipe itself should rise immediately above the otter. In this case, an otter with a platform, a neck and a special protruding cap together create a pipe head.

On the cap on top it is necessary to attach a cap or umbrella, which will prevent the ingress of dirt and precipitation, in addition, such a device helps to create good traction in the channel.

Chimney masonry

There is no fundamental difference between the laying of an array of stoves and chimneys. It is carried out on a clay-sand mortar using the same tools - an oven hammer, a trowel and a plumb line. However, elements such as fluff and otter are laid out using a large number of pieces of brick 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 of the whole.

To avoid splitting and teska, which are accompanied by clouds of brick dust and rarely give the desired result, it is worth using a “grinder” with a diamond wheel for ceramics. This guarantees the accuracy of work, eliminates tedious work and a lot of useless brick battle.

Solution

For masonry up to the roof level, a mixture of sand and clay is used, since it has a coefficient of linear expansion similar to brick, which is a certain guarantee against the appearance of cracks.

The pure clay used as a binder can be either oily or lean. In some places, deposits come across where the proportional ratio of the amount of clay to sand is naturally optimal: one to three or four.

With an increase in the volume fraction of clay, the solution cracks after drying, and with a decrease, it crumbles. To determine the optimal ratio of volumetric parts, it is necessary to knead the finished solution in the fingers. It should not be noticeably slippery or rough, like sandpaper.

The excavated clay is soaked in an iron container for 3-4 days. The result should be a homogeneous clay pulp without stones, similar in consistency to liquid sour cream.

The sand taken in the floodplain of streams and rivers is very fine, dusty. It is not suitable for laying. It is better to use one that consists of grains of 0.8–1 mm. It is rough to the touch.

Clay and sand are mixed by volume in a ratio of one to three or four. Water is added gradually, in small portions. The finished solution should leave traces on the trowel (but not stick to it) and not drain from it.

To avoid errors in proportions, it is better to buy a ready-made dry clay-sand masonry mixture.

Please note that the one marked "refractory" is not suitable for masonry.

Brick

Solid burnt red brick is used.

Its edges should be even, without cracks, and the sound made by a light blow on it with an oven hammer should be sonorous.

The standard size used for masonry is 250 long, 125 wide and 75 mm high.

Internal chimney masonry

It begins immediately after the damper is installed and the furnace overlap is completed. The masonry techniques are the same - applying a layer of mortar, laying bricks, “shaking” it with your hand and lightly tapping it with a pick. Verticality and horizontality are checked after laying each row. Finish it for four brick heights to the ceiling.

Fluff masonry

The expansion of the chimney wall thickness is carried out to comply with the requirement that combustible structures be located at a distance of 250 mm “from smoke”. The usual wall thickness of the chimney is 125 mm. To double it, you need to fold four rows, each of which moves outward by 1/8 of the width of the brick relative to the bottom one - just the amount that allows the brick to lie without being thrown over. The masonry principle for all three sizes is the same:

1. The inner surface (to the smoke) of the first row is laid out in 1/8 parts. The gaps between the outer bricks are filled in 1/4 increments.
2. In the second row, the parts increase, respectively, to 1/4 and 1/2.
3. On the third row, 1/2 and 3/4 parts are used.
4. The outer belt of the fourth row of fluff is laid out with whole bricks.

Having reached the ceiling, it is laid, observing the dressing of the seams, two or three more rows higher. A gap of 2-3 cm is left between the ceiling and it, in order to exclude the pressure of the structure on the masonry. It is covered with mineral wool boards. Laying up to the roof is carried out in the usual manner - with dressing of vertical joints and control of verticality.

Otter clutch

It begins after the edge of the chimney brick has risen above the roof. It is carried out outside, in compliance with all safety measures when working at height. You can use cement mortar. They start it from the edge that is lower along the slope. The distance from the smoke on each row is equal to 1/8 of the width of the brick. In total, the otter should have six rows. After it, they put the neck - the usual continuation of the chimney. The gaps between the roof and the chimney are closed with a “collar” made of sheet roofing steel.

head masonry

This is a chimney deflector that prevents smoke from clogging into the chimney during air turbulence.

It is laid out in two rows, shifting the first from the smoke by 1/8 of the brick, and the second by 1/2.

For its protrusions, you can hook the clamps of a metal cap, which prevents precipitation from entering the pipe.

Repair of a brick chimney pipe from a gas boiler

• Fault detected during regular masonry inspection.
• Re-equipment of the smoke exhaust system, allowing the use of conventional brick oven chimneys for modern gas boilers.

Why does a brick collapse on a gas chimney?

• Condensation exposure - poorly insulated masonry of the attached chimney outside the house is the cause of condensation. Under the influence of temperature differences and the accumulation of soot, a strong acid is formed that destroys the mortar joint and brick. The same problem occurs when laying internal brick chimneys, especially if the area passing through the attic is not insulated.
• Negative environmental impact - brick has thermal load limits. The wrong choice of masonry material leads to the destruction of the walls, after 1-2 heating seasons. Overheating affects the strength of the facing brick. Permissible rate of surface heating is not more than 50°С.
• Destruction of the foundation - recommendations for the construction of external wall brick chimneys outside the house prescribe the manufacture of a base reinforced with metal rods, 1 cm thick. The width of the foundation exceeds the masonry by 15 cm on each side of the channel. The erection of the structure is carried out only after the base has completely hardened, a month after pouring.

Do I need to line a brick chimney and with what?

1. Increased condensation.
2. Location of chimneys from gas boilers in a brick ventilation shaft.
3. Destruction of a brick chimney.

How to clean a brick pipe with gas heating

Advantages and disadvantages of connecting a gas boiler to a brick chimney

1. Low cost with the possibility of using an existing pipe.
2. Possibility of connecting a gas boiler with an open combustion chamber to a brick chimney.
3. Availability of building and finishing materials.

1. Short service life.
2. High requirements for the quality of masonry and the qualifications of the worker carrying out construction work.
3. The need for insulation.
4. Many restrictions - making a gas chimney in an external brick wall, using an old channel without a sleeve, connecting the system to condensing boilers and equipment with a closed combustion chamber, is prohibited.

stainless sandwich pipe

Chimney masonry

Scheme

The first thing to do is to carefully read the chimney diagram and figure out how each of its rows fits. You can choose one of many schemes - better than the one on which everything will become extremely clear. When laying a conventional brick oven, the ordering for a standard brick chimney is suitable.

One of the most common chimney arrangements

Construction of the overhead pipe

When installing the overhead pipe, the laying of the furnace structure itself ends 50-60 centimeters before the ceiling, and then the direct construction of the chimney begins. This diagram shows two options for laying the chimney: square and rectangular.

• According to the scheme of the first row, the chimney neck is erected before cutting. In each subsequent row, the bricks are laid in such a way that the middle of the brick overlaps the seam between the bricks of the previous row.

Having laid out three or four rows according to this scheme of the first row, the removal of the pipe fluff begins.

This is what the fluff looks like...

• The figure of the second row clearly shows that the bricks are stacked with a shift to the outside by one third of the brick. To perfectly fit the piece material, you will have to use the division of a solid brick into two or three parts along or across.

... and this is her order

With all this, it must be remembered that the chimney channel must retain its original cross section, since the point of thickening its walls is to increase safety for overlapping during operation. Moreover, the narrowing or expansion of the internal cavity can adversely affect the draft during the furnace.

• The third, fourth and fifth rows of fluff are also laid out with a shift to the outside, while maintaining the clearance of the channel.
• The sixth row is the same size as the fifth row and is laid out flush with the outer and inner edges of the flue wall.
• The seventh and eighth rows are laid out according to the scheme of the first row.

Having finished laying the fluff, you can proceed to work on the otter, and here you need to try very hard, since each row forms another step and protrudes to the outside, by one third.

Otter ordering

• The first row is laid the same size as the last row of fluff.
• From the second row, they begin to lay out the first step, and the chimney is expanding to the outside.
• Further, following the scheme, the remaining eight rows are laid out.

After the laying of the otter is completed, the neck of the pipe is laid out, which is displayed according to the scheme of the first row to the top two rows of the cap, where the brick is also laid with a ledge to the outside.

The design of the chimney and the principle of operation

The classic chimney design is a vertical tower, inside of which there is a through hole connecting the furnace firebox with an open space outside the house. According to the laws of physics, air pressure decreases as you move away from the surface of the earth. As a result, a draft arises inside the pipe - the desire of the air mass to move from bottom to top. If air access from below is blocked, the thrust disappears. Therefore, a smoke damper or a view must be installed in the chimney, with which it is possible to regulate the draft.

With the help of a damper, you can adjust the size of the smoke channel, and therefore the draft

Since the pipe is operated in residential buildings, it should not pose a fire hazard, therefore, the laying is carried out taking into account maximum protection against possible fire. Among the stove-makers, a certain terminology has been established, which reflects the structure and functional purpose of the individual elements of the pipe.

1. Extension pipe. Placed directly on the furnace, connected to the combustion chamber. Usually it does not reach the horizontal overlap by 5–6 brick rows (35–40 cm). This part contains a valve.
2. Fluff (or cutting). Thickening of the outer casing inside the ceiling. The purpose is to prevent thermal contact of the floor material and cross beams with the pipe. At this point, the temperature of the bricks reaches its maximum, so it is important to take all measures to ensure safety. The internal dimensions of the chimney remain unchanged.
3. Riser. Part of the pipe from the fluff to the roof. The dimensions of the riser are usually the same as the dimensions of the extension pipe. The size of the internal section is preserved. If the attic space is equipped as a living space, the riser acts as a heater.
4. Otter. Thickening of the outer dimensions of the chimney in order to block the opening in the roof from possible precipitation. The minimum overlap is 10 cm around the entire perimeter of the pipe. The height of the otter depends on the slope of the roof. Its upper part ends with sewage pavements made of cement mortar with increased moisture resistance.
5. Pipe neck. Part of the chimney made by laying bricks on a waterproof mortar. Located above the otter, it has the same geometric parameters as the riser.

Pipe head. Expansion of masonry at the end of the chimney. It has protective functions, prevents foreign objects from getting inside the pipe. Often reinforced with a metal frame, deflector or wind vane.

All brick chimneys are made according to the same scheme, consisting of several standard elements.

In some cases, a combined pipe design is practiced. Brickwork ends in the attic and then a metal or asbestos pipe is mounted to it, which goes to the roof. In this case, there is no need for an otter, neck and head, which saves a lot of time and money. At the same time, we must not forget that the cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200ba metal pipe should not differ from the cross-section of a brick one in a smaller direction. The combination of a stainless steel pipe nested in an asbestos pipe has proven itself well.

In the upper part of the chimney, where the temperature of the flue gases is not so high, it is possible to make a transition from a brick pipe to a metal one.

In both cases, the upper hole must be closed with an umbrella (or deflector), which will prevent direct rain and snow from entering the pipe.

You can read in detail about the principles for choosing a suitable chimney in our article:.

Compliance with the main requirements

If you design or build a brick chimney with your own hands, allowing a violation of existing norms, this frivolity is likely to have sad consequences. Therefore, their compliance must be monitored at all stages of work.

Firstly, the installation of the exhaust ventilation system must take place in parallel with the installation of a compensating supply system.

Secondly, exhaust smoke must not pass through the channels of the ventilation grilles. It must not be allowed to be delayed by any obstacles that arise on the way, which will certainly become the cause of its accumulation.

Deciding to acquire a fireplace, you must remember that he will need an internal partition made of a material that meets fire safety requirements. If necessary, external insulation is performed: so the gases that the chimney removes will not form condensate or its amount will decrease significantly.

If it is impossible to place smoke ducts in the walls, mounted pipes (directly on the furnace ceiling) or root pipes (brick risers installed separately) are suitable for use.

It is necessary to remember the rule: one fireplace can only be connected to a separate chimney. True, exceptions are possible when two fireplaces are located on the same floor and are connected to a common pipe (taking into account the requirements for cutting: the height from the lower connection is from 1 m, the thickness is 12 cm).

To increase the heating area of ​​​​the fireplace, zealous owners often use pipe-radiator. During the functioning of the hearth, adjustable air exchange will control the intensity of combustion. As an alternative, a damper is installed.

Smoke extraction is organized as simply as possible, ideally by arranging a vertical smoke exhaust system with a height of more than 7 m or using a more complex structure, the angles of which are more than 45 degrees. When using an elbow, do not forget about the need for a tee, which can facilitate the cleaning process.

Particular attention should be paid to the location and thermal protection of the chimney. Due to volatile combustion products, the structure will become very hot, so it is important to protect walls and ceilings from possible fire

If the chimney is planned to be laid next to structures made of wood or plastic, mandatory insulation will be required, for example, using basalt wool.

The section through which the channel passes must be additionally insulated, and a fungus or weather vane should be placed at the very top of the pipe.

Roof penetration waterproofing

Protecting the place where the chimney passes through the roof is the final stage of construction

The durability of the chimney depends on how well the waterproofing is done, so this moment is given the closest attention.
The outer apron reliably protects the passage through the roof from precipitation and condensate. It is not enough to seal the gap between the chimney and the roof with mastic or sealant alone.

Over time, the sealant layer moves away from the riser, cracks and ceases to perform its functions. For reliable protection against moisture, a number of conditions must be met.

It is not enough to seal the gap between the chimney and the roof with mastic or sealant alone. Over time, the sealant layer moves away from the riser, cracks and ceases to perform its functions. For reliable protection against moisture, a number of conditions must be met.

1. The exit point of the pipe to the outside is located as close as possible to the ridge in order to minimize the formation of snow caps in winter.
2. When installing the roofing, the junction with the riser is equipped with a moisture removal system, a moisture-resistant membrane and a protective apron.
3. At the point where the apron is attached to the pipe, a strobe 1–2 cm deep is made. This will be enough to prevent precipitation and condensate from entering the junction.
4. For waterproofing, a sealant is used that is resistant to constant temperature changes.

If desired, the structure can be covered with another casing, which will make it more aesthetic.

Video: protecting a brick chimney from rain

You should not think that a brick chimney is a building of the last century. In contrast, the most technologically advanced chimneys are a double construction of a brick casing, inside of which a steel sleeve is installed. Such pipes have a maximum service life and are able to add several points to the treasury of the thermal efficiency of the furnace. As you can see for yourself, building a brick chimney does not require any specific skills and is quite within the power of a person who is used to doing everything with his own hands. So get down to business and feel free to get down to business!

Brick chimney design

The power of the furnace is directly related to the size of the cross section of the chimney channel:

1. For small heater stoves, a square section with a rib of 120-150 mm will suffice. Most often, this is a channel that has four bricks in a row, so often the size of such a section is called a four;
2. For a bath of 15-20 cubic meters or a fireplace, you will need a chimney with a section of the size of a "five" or 125x250 mm. When laying in a row, five bricks are placed;
3. For Russian stoves and large sauna heaters, the “sixth” size is used with a channel of 250x250 mm. This is a very large section, and should only be used for low-lying pipes or a very large furnace firebox.

Structurally, the laying of the chimney is no different from the laying of the stove itself. The only area that requires the hands and skill of a professional is the overhead pipe. In this place, it is necessary to correctly perform the dressing of the brick being laid. For a simple chimney tower structure, the pipe can be made of alloy metal and connected to the main brick duct, as shown in the figure.

What is the height of the pipe? There are certain recommendations for the installation and layout of the height of the brick pipe and the ridge of the roof of the house. If the pipe is at a distance of up to one and a half meters from the ridge, it is raised to a height of up to half a meter above the highest point of the roof, at a distance of up to three meters the pipe cut can go level with the roof ridge, everything that is further away should not be 0.2-0.3 m below the ridge.

They try to raise the total height of the chimney to a level of 5 meters, this allows for a "cold" air flow in the region of 1-2 m 3 / hour, which is quite enough to ignite the stove. Higher pipes will make the oven uneconomical.

Conventionally, the laying of a brick chimney can be divided into two parts - up to broadening, or fluff, and above it. The fluff is a thickening or strapping of bricks that allows you to fix a very unstable high structure in the ceiling system of the house. Despite the obvious inefficiency of fluff, it should not be neglected, except for the possibility of attaching to ceiling beams. This element reinforces the relatively thin brick pipe and prevents the development of cracks due to transverse wind loading.

In addition to the fluff, the chimney pipe has an otter and a head. The first element is a belt or thickening on the top of the chimney pipe located above the roof. You can not do it, it works like an umbrella over the junction of the roof to the brickwork. The head can be made of steel or brick. Both elements do not particularly affect the operation of the furnace, therefore, in simple designs, they can be replaced by a decorative casing and a cap that buries the cut from water and snow.

When choosing the design of the chimney, give preference to simple and reliable vertical pipes. They are unpretentious in work and do not demand frequent service.

If you choose the right mortar materials and masonry bricks, keep the vertical above the stove, then this option will serve you faithfully for many years. Such a chimney is quite simple to set up and modify in case of changes in the design of the furnace.

Rules for laying a brick chimney

Before you start building a brick chimney with your own hands, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the necessary regulations and rules for such work. The design document must include furnace device drawings with orders and elements of protection of the building from fire.

For heating boilers with flue gas temperatures from 140 °C to 300 °C, for stoves and fireplaces, it is preferable to use solid ceramic stove bricks, without cracks and chips. Silicate brick can only be used when laying the pipe head.

A brick chimney is erected in buildings up to four floors high.

The smallest height of the chimney corresponds to five meters, the cross section for creating the most favorable conditions for smoke outlet from 14 × 14 cm. Heated, sparkling gases exit through the chimney, as a result of which it is necessary to fill the joints with mortar especially carefully, in order to avoid fires.

The mouth of the structure is equipped with a spark arrester and an umbrella to protect against precipitation.

Brickwork builds chimneys of a rectangular or round section. The advantages of a round tube are that the rate of exit of the cooled combustion products is higher, less soot is deposited inside. But the construction of square masonry is less laborious and costly.

The air-hardening solution must be continuously stirred to prevent setting. Laying is carried out at a temperature not lower than 10 ° C. All seams, both horizontal and vertical, are completely filled with mortar. The thickness of the chimney masonry joints must not exceed 10 mm.

Unfolding and twisting of the structure relative to its axis during construction is not allowed. The straightness of the masonry is checked by the rule.

Chimneys are cleared of soot before the start of the heating season, and then every two months.

The gap between the smoke and the outer surface of the wall is calculated depending on the air temperature in the cold season:

• at t ° - 30 ° C is 60 cm;
• at t ° - 2 0-30 ° C is 51 cm;
• at t ° - 20 ° C and above should be 38 cm.

These parameters must be adhered to in order to prevent overcooling of the smoke and the formation of condensate.

How to calculate the cross section of a brick pipe

The work of a brick chimney is to move air from the furnace part to the outside outlet. The chimney creates draft, which appears from the difference in temperature and pressure. The size of the section must be calculated based on the power of the heating element and the furnace part. The chimney must be smooth so that nothing obstructs the movement of air and soot does not collect. Sometimes, for this, a smooth tin pipe is built into the chimney.

The inner diameter will depend on the total length of the chimney and the power of the boiler (furnace). The number of channels inside the furnace also affects normal operation. If the pipe is too long and the cross section of the chimney is too large, then with a low furnace (boiler) power, this will lead to its cooling or a decrease in draft. The question often arises, which pipes provide the best traction? The thrust does not depend on what material the pipes are made of - steel or brick.

For a fireplace with an open kindling window, the ratio of the cross section of the chimney to the window will be 1 to 10 (the cross section of the pipe to the area of ​​the kindling window). This applies to all pipe shapes.

In an oven with a closed system, the cross-sectional ratio will be 1 to 1.5

Hole calculation scheme:

For example: With a firebox window size of 600 by 700 mm, the total size will be 0.42 square meters. For a square pipe section, with a chimney height of 6 meters, 11.6 percent will be the best. Now we multiply 0.42 by 0.116, we get 0.0787 sq.m. The cross section for the pipe must be taken into account based on the height of the pipe. A seven-meter pipe in a bath, two meters high, will not look aesthetically pleasing.

Inexperienced builders believe that laying a brick chimney is the same as building walls. However, the device of the chimney has its own nuances. In particular, experts do not recommend the use of a cement-sand mortar. Such a solution will not withstand sharp temperature fluctuations that occur in the wall of the chimney pipe. In addition, the usual solution will be destroyed by condensate, which inevitably settles on the pipe wall.

Therefore, it is necessary to lay a brick chimney using a thermo-efficient and chemical-resistant mortar. You can prepare a solution using ready-made mixtures. But it is expensive, so many people prefer to prepare a thermo-efficient solution on their own, such a solution consists of cement, sand, lime and fireclay. Some experts recommend using a clay solution.

If the boiler is gas

If a brick chimney is justified for a wood-burning stove and a solid fuel boiler, then for a gas boiler this is not the best chimney option. It's all about the different operating modes of the furnace, solid fuel and gas boiler. If solid fuel equipment does not require high traction, then the use of a rectangular brick pipe for a gas boiler will lead to a decrease in the efficiency of the heating unit.

When using a gas boiler, the requirements for a chimney device are different than when installing solid fuel equipment. Therefore, if a house is being built, then a gas boiler requires a chimney from a metal pipe.

If a gas boiler is being installed instead of a solid fuel or wood-burning stove, then the construction of a new chimney is impractical. However, the requirements for the chimney of a gas boiler must be met. In this case, a brick chimney is lined, that is, a metal pipe is installed inside an existing brick chimney. Thus, the requirements for the smoke exhaust device will be met and you will not have to disassemble the old pipe.

Nothing is impossible

By and large, do-it-yourself brick chimneys are a doable task for any person who loves to work with his hands for his own pleasure. It is sometimes believed that brick chimneys are a thing of the past. This is not the case, for example, lining a brick chimney with pipes with a special coating, but the device of a brick chimney allows you to do this, allows you to use them in working with the most modern heating boilers. We hope that after reading this article, you no longer have the question of how to make a brick chimney for a fireplace or stove with your own hands. Try, practice, and brick chimneys built by your own hands will delight you and your loved ones with perfect work under any conditions. Good luck to you!

Furnace and chimney cladding with ceramic tiles

New ovens usually look good. However, some prefer to tile it. This is not only beautiful, but also will increase the service life, especially in the bath, where there is high humidity. How to lay tiles with your own hands? (if you understand how to lay bricks for a chimney, then you can handle it). The main thing is to choose the right tile adhesive and cladding material.

How to lay out a tile so that it does not peel off? When faced with ordinary ceramic tiles, there is a high possibility of peeling or cracking. The best material would be clinker, terracotta, porcelain stoneware.

Terracotta is more durable. It is made under pressure.

Clinker and porcelain tiles have increased impact resistance, thickness and high fire resistance.

The surface of the chimney is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and moistened. From above, with the help of dowels, a metal mesh is pulled. The mesh improves the adhesion of the plaster to the brickwork.

Plastered with a mortar of cement and clay. The ratio of clay to cement is 3 to 1 and 0.2 parts of sand. After plastering, the oven is heated. After, you can glue the tiles.

The tiles are glued to heat-resistant glue, using beacons and crosses to align the rows. For grouting the seams use the same glue.

If you make an effort and patience, you can cope with the construction of the chimney with your own hands, saving on inviting specialists.

In addition to our article, watch the video:

What you need to know about a brick chimney

Of course, today people strive for all the benefits of civilization, so it is unlikely that anyone will plan to build a stove with a chimney in a cottage purposefully

But country houses cannot do without this important component, especially if your plans include regular trips here in the winter season. By the way, if you are planning to build a fireplace, then you also need a chimney

Laying a brick chimney has its price - specialists who build stoves and fireplaces according to old, still "grandfather's" methods ask for a lot of money for their work, claiming that they have a "secret technique". In fact, laying chimneys with your own hands is not so “mysterious” - the main thing is to carefully consider each stage of construction and then you will succeed!

The chimney consists of several parts, so those who think that this is an ordinary pipe are deeply mistaken. By the way, experts say that in order for the draft to be good, the chimney should not be less than five meters high - otherwise the draft will be weak.

Before you start laying the chimney pipe, carefully study all the parts of which it consists, only in this case all the stages of construction will become clear to you.

A brick chimney consists of the following parts:

1. The beginning of the chimney is a chimney. It is installed directly on top of the stove (fireplace). Most often, this is where the valve is located. Laying out this part of the chimney is necessary subject to the obligatory dressing of bricks in each row. The set-on part is about five or six rows of bricks. The set-on part should not reach the interfloor ceiling, therefore its height depends on the height of the ceilings and the furnace, as well as the interfloor ceiling.
2. Fluff neck or just fluff - follows the packing pipe. This is exactly the place where the pipe expands a little. It is worth noting that the chimney itself remains the same size as it was, and the expansion appears due to the brickwork. The outer part of the chimney expands from about 25 centimeters to 40 centimeters - thanks to the laying of bricks in several rows.
3. After the flue, there is a riser - this is the part of the chimney that starts in the attic and reaches the roof.
4. The otter is a part of the chimney that expands again on all sides by at least 10 centimeters. Thanks to this expansion, atmospheric precipitation will not enter the attic through the cracks. The otter protects the load-bearing structures, roofing, ceiling and items that you will store in the attic, as it will not allow moisture to enter.
5. Pipe neck - after the otter there is a flat part of the chimney, which resembles a riser with its masonry.
6. Head - the final part of the chimney. The masonry is expanding again. From above, they most often put a metal cap, a weather vane or a deflector - thanks to this, you can protect the chimney from precipitation, as well as significantly increase traction.

Choice of tool and material

To build a chimney, you will need the following tools:

1. Level.
2. Roulette.
3. Hammer with rubber tip.
4. Brick hammer.
5. Trowel.
6. Bulgarian.
7. Buckets - a few for water and a few for mortar.
8. Electric drill + nozzle "mixer".
9. A container for diluting the solution.
10. Sieve.
11. Brick.
12. Sand.
13. Clay.

Brick selection

The choice of brick for the construction of a chimney is a very important point, because fire safety depends on it. Today there are a huge number of different types of bricks, which differ in appearance, shape, color. As you know, the brick is fired, after which it is ready for use. It is the firing stage that forms three types of bricks:

1. A well-fired brick is red. It has smooth walls and edges, if you knock on it, then a characteristic “metallic” sound is heard.
2. Unburned brick has a pink color. If you knock on it, a dull sound is heard. It is most often used for laying less important areas.
3. Burnt brick has a dark brown color. It is mainly used for laying the foundation.

Any of these types of brick is suitable for one or another stage of the construction of the chimney - make sure that it is full-bodied and refractory.

Common installation errors

However, there are some common installation flaws that are recommended to pay attention to.

The most common mistakes when installing a brick pipe:

One of the most common oversights is insufficient pipe height. Because of this, the system lacks the necessary traction and cannot do its job properly. In order not to encounter this problem, it is recommended to seriously approach the calculation of the height of the pipe above the roof.

Another very common inaccuracy is improperly prepared masonry mortar. Such a solution crumbles over time, which leads to the destruction of the structure. The consistency of the solution should be homogeneous, with fine-grained sand.

The layer of mortar when laying bricks should not exceed 5 mm

Important! It is very important that the solution is evenly distributed and does not form obstacles in the pipe channel for transporting combustion products. . It is also important that the chimney is smooth and meets the standards described in SNiP as much as possible.

It is also important that the chimney is smooth and meets the standards described in SNiP as much as possible.

A few more tips from the experts:

Ligation of bricks during laying should be done very carefully. During laying, different parts of bricks (halves, quarters, etc.) can be used. In order to divide the bricks into parts, it is recommended to use a grinder.

The mortar layer should not be too thick - this can lead to its rapid shedding and destruction of the structure. The optimum layer thickness is 4–5 mm.

In addition, do not forget about the periodic cleaning of chimneys. On the walls of the chimney, as a rule, soot, ash and other products of combustion accumulate. Particularly prone to clogging structures that have irregularities in the internal channel. Preventive cleaning will clean the chimney and improve its performance.

Chimney cleaning and repair

To clean the pipe, both traditional methods and modern ones, based on the achievements of technical progress, are used.

From time immemorial, people whose profession was called a chimney sweep were engaged in the maintenance of furnaces. Today, finding a professional chimney sweep is problematic. They were replaced by chemicals, which, however, are also often called "Chimney Sweep".

It is very difficult to find a professional chimney sweep today, this profession is a thing of the past

So, a tool called "Chimney Sweep Log" has proven itself well. It contains salts of copper sulfate and other active chemical compounds. Burning in the furnace, the vapors of these substances interact with the soot deposited on the walls of the pipe. Under the action of heat, the reaction continues for several weeks and leads to the fact that the solid structure of soot crumbles and, falling back into the furnace, burns out. According to manufacturers, the use of "miracle log" twice a year allows you to completely remove soot from the pipe. The consequence of this is good traction and a high percentage of heat transfer from the furnace.

Manufacturers of the Log Chimney Sweeper claim that its use twice a year allows you to completely clean the chimney of soot

From folk remedies, one can note such effective methods of prevention as burning salt or soda once every 2 months (about 0.5 kg per furnace). The powder is poured into the combustion chamber at the moment when the firewood is well flared up and the temperature is maximum. After that, you need to tightly close all the doors, as the reaction can be quite violent.

Dry aspen firewood helps to clean the chimney well. The fact is that the aspen burns with a large release of heat, the flames are long and penetrate deep into the passages.

If there is no aspen or soda, you can use potato peels. To do this, you need to accumulate about half a bucket of potato peel. When burned in a furnace, the released substances bind soot and cause it to burn to the end.

The combustion temperature of aspen firewood reaches 800 degrees, so the soot on the walls of the chimney burns out

When performing work on the installation of chimneys, especially at the site of installation of the neck, otter and head, safety standards should be carefully observed. If you work carefully and follow the necessary instructions and technologies, it is quite possible to fold a brick chimney with your own hands.

General rules for the construction of chimneys

For all types of brick chimneys, there are several general provisions that must be followed.

Exit to the roof of a classic chimney

Height above roofing. Regulated taking into account the angle of inclination of the slopes, it must ensure fire safety and exclude draft from blowing out air turbulence from the ridge. If the roof covering is made of non-combustible materials, then the fire height requirements can be ignored, but the chimney should be warned against swirling. The recommended heights can be seen in the photo.

Chimney height

fire safety requirements

Manufacturing material. For most chimneys, ordinary red brick can be used. If you want, buy a refractory one, but it costs much more, and you should not expect a big positive effect from its use.

Red brick chimney

We recommend using refractory bricks only for laying the overhead pipe, in this place the highest gas temperature. The fact is that red brick can easily withstand temperatures up to + 800 ° C, and the temperature of the gases in the chimney is much lower. It is strictly forbidden to use silicate brick - during heating, it releases toxic chemical compounds into the air. Such a brick can only be used for exterior wall decoration.

Silicate brick is prohibited

An important requirement for all bricks is that the side surfaces must be smooth. The presence of irregularities and roughness increases the deposition of soot in the smoke channel, it will have to be cleaned much more often

A large amount of soot not only impairs traction, but can also cause ignition, and this is a direct risk of fire. During the insertion of the chimney, the internal channel must be immediately cleaned of the solution protruding in the seams. Use a damp cloth or sponge for this, achieve maximum smoothness of the inner surfaces of the channel.

Masonry mortar. There are two options. Some stove-makers use only clay mortar, while others add a little cement to it. We are supporters of the second option, cement significantly increases the strength of the structure. But you choose, both types of solutions do a good job with their tasks.

Ready-made clay mortar for laying the furnace

Rules for the operation of brick chimneys

The brick chimney belongs to the capital structures with a long service life. Of particular importance for its proper operation is periodic maintenance. First of all, it concerns the correct commissioning of the chimney. After the completion of the installation work, it is necessary to dry the masonry at a low temperature, for which it is recommended to heat the stove several times using a small amount of firewood. This will allow all elements of the chimney to dry evenly.

For further use, you need:

1. Monitor the condition of the foundation, as it may begin to collapse and cause the chimney to skew. If cracks are found, it must be restored using a concrete-cement mixture.
2. Inspect the chimney at least once a year.
3. Observe the condition of the head, as it is simultaneously affected by high flue gas temperature and low ambient temperature. If the head is deformed or collapses, then precipitation and debris will enter the chimney and gradually destroy its structure.
4. Clean the flue. The frequency of cleaning depends on the regular use of the chimney. If it works only for one season a year, then you can clean it every three years, and if the stove is heated more often, then you need to clean it once a year.

Read more about how to clean the chimney in our article -.

If a brick chimney is operated according to all the rules and cleaned on time, it can last up to half a century without repair.

How to make a brick chimney for a gas boiler

What kind of brick is the chimney for a gas boiler made of?

• Fire resistance - the material is assigned a class "A" or "B". The first is designed for heating up to 1400°C, the second 1350°C.
• Strength - bricks of the M 250 or M 200 brand are needed for masonry. High density leads to an increase in heating time, therefore, it is not recommended to use building material marked M300 and higher.
• Frost resistance - the chimney is made of solid ceramic bricks with a resistance factor of F300.

It is correct to make a brick chimney for a gas boiler in a private house, from solid brick, class "A" or "B", with strength M 250 and frost resistance F300.

What masonry mixture is used in the construction

• Clay mortar - is heat-resistant, used for the construction of structures located in the house. Clay is soaked by water, so the mixture is not suitable for the outer parts of the chimney.
• Cement composition - the use of cement mortar is necessary for parts of the chimney located outside the building. To increase the strength and give the solution acid-resistant characteristics, special additives are added to the finished mixture. The same solution is used in the manufacture of the foundation of the chimney.

How to insulate a brick chimney

• First you need to repair the brick pipe. Damaged areas are replaced. The influxes from the masonry mortar are removed, the pipe is primed.
• To align the pipe, and remove the cracks and chips that have appeared, you will need to plaster the brick surface. Works are carried out on lighthouses. The solution is allowed to dry. It is forbidden to heat the chimney during this period.
• Thermal insulation of a brick pipe is carried out - the thickness of the insulation is 5-10 cm. Basalt insulation for external cladding is attached to a special adhesive composition, after which the plates are fixed with anchors. A reinforcing mesh is pulled from above, embedding it in a layer of glue.
• Finishing work in progress.

Rooftop chimney

• When passing through slabs or roofing, fire breaks are observed. SNiP 01/41/2003 states that from an uninsulated chimney to combustible structures there should be at least 38 cm. For insulated pipes, the gaps are reduced to 5 cm. The space is filled with basalt insulation.
• For penetration, a special box is made, installed under the roofing.
• The head of the chimney is insulated with basalt slabs, lined with ceramic tiles on top or lined with facade plaster.
• The height of the pipe is calculated depending on the distance from the ridge. There is a general recommendation that the brickwork in a private house be higher than the top level of the roof. In some cases, in accordance with this instruction, it will be necessary to rebuild the existing brick chimney for the installation of a modern gas boiler.
• The head of the pipe is covered with a deflector to increase the traction force.

The connection of a gas boiler to an existing brick chimney is carried out only if the pipe height is sufficient and after the system is necessarily lined.

How to prevent condensation and how to remove moisture

• Insufficient draft - to increase the speed of air flows, increase the height of the pipe and install a deflector. The brick channel needs regular cleaning. The narrowing of the clearance is a common cause of insufficient traction and increased condensation.
• Poor insulation of the system - the installation of a brick chimney for a gas boiler in a wooden or brick house is carried out with mandatory thermal insulation of the structure. Often the section passing through the uninsulated attic space is left without attention.
• Connection errors - the junction of a brick chimney and a gas heating boiler is made using a piece of stainless pipe or corrugation, with a mandatory vertical section, at least 0.5 m long. The permissible operating dimensions of the horizontal section of the pipe are not more than 1 m. In total complexity, all segments should be no more than 3 m.

Learning the basics

Before you start laying a brick chimney, you should study SNiP 41-01-2003, which regulates the creation of heating systems in private homes. You should especially carefully read section 6.6 of this set of rules, which contains all the parameters of chimneys.

There are three main types of flue pipes:

1. Indigenous. Pipes of this type are laid on their own foundation. This is an independent building, combined with a fireplace or stove.
2. Attached. Such chimneys are mounted on the ceiling of the furnace and are an integral part of it.

Wall. This type of pipe is made in the walls.

Consider the elements of the most common mounted chimney. It consists of:

• Packed pipe, which is located on the ceiling of the furnace. The laying of this section of the chimney is done with the dressing of each brick in a row with bricks of the next row. The laying of this section is done almost to the ceiling, not reaching it 5 rows.
• Next comes the expansion of the masonry, without increasing the internal dimensions of the channel. This area is called "fluff". Fluff (cutting) is placed with expansion from row to row to the passage through the ceiling.
• A straight chimney is placed on the fluff (already in the attic) - a “riser”. This part of the chimney reaches the roof.
• To pass through the roof, an extension of the “riser” masonry is made, which is called the “otter”. It prevents moisture from entering the attic through the roof.
• A straight section of the chimney is laid, which is called the "neck" of the chimney.
• It, again, ends with an extension. An umbrella or deflector is mounted on the head to prevent debris, precipitation, etc. from entering the channel.

The figure below shows a standard type of chimney with an indication of all its elements.

Brick chimney as an engineering structure

The chimney, for all its external unpretentiousness, is a complex engineering structure, to which serious requirements are imposed. They relate to strength, fire safety, the ability to effectively remove hot gases. Therefore, the installation of a chimney in a wooden house should begin with an acquaintance with its device.

Main elements

1. Internal chimney- is conducted from the ceiling of the furnace to a level below the ceiling by four rows of brickwork.
2. Cutting (fluff)- expansion of the wall thickness of the pipe when it passes through the ceiling.
3. External chimney- conducted through the attic to the level of the roof.
4. Otter- another expansion of the thickness of the walls of the chimney, arranged to cover the gap between it, the roof sheathing and its covering.
5. Neck- continuation of the external chimney.
6. headroom- thickening of the walls, which plays the role of a deflector.

Requirements for a brick chimney

The main one is the distance “from smoke” to combustible structures. It is equal to 250 mm - this is the full length of a solid ceramic brick.

The second requirement is the strict verticality of the structure. Deviation from it by more than 3 degrees (per one meter of height) is not allowed. Also, there should be no through cracks in the brickwork.

Chimney calculation

The main criterion is the internal section. The ability to remove hot gases mainly depends on it. The more powerful the stove, the wider the chimney should be. There are three standard sizes used for one or another type of heating device.

1. "Four" - a row of which is formed by four bricks. Section 125 by 125 mm. It is used for cooking stoves or heating stoves of low power.
2. "Five" - ​​a rectangular chimney, formed by a row of five bricks. Section 250 by 125 mm. It is used for heating and heating-cooking furnaces. Chimneys for fireplaces smaller than this section are not recommended.
3. "Six" - a square pipe, a row of six bricks. Section 250 by 250 mm. It is used for fireplaces and Russian stoves - wherever a minimum resistance to the movement of hot gases is required.

The second most important criterion in the calculation is height. It depends on the place of its output to the roof relative to the ridge:

1. Pipes installed on a ridge or at a distance of no more than 1.5 meters from it rise 0.5 meters above the roof.
2. Chimneys passing through the roof at a distance of one and a half to three meters to the ridge are made with a height equal to it.
3. If the distance is more than three meters, then the angle between the ridge and the upper cut of the pipe should be 10 degrees.

How much will it cost

The brick chimney on the roof has managed to become a visual constant in three centuries. And a building with such a finish looks, according to subjective estimates, much more attractive.

It remains only to determine how much it will cost you to comply with the canons. If you involve third-party craftsmen, then the price of the work will be added to the cost of the brick. And she's big. In St. Petersburg and the region, for example, laying one brick will cost from 50 to 90 rubles.

A solid single brick of the M 150 brand, which is used for laying furnaces, costs from 15 to 20 rubles apiece.

The solution, if you prepare yourself, is free.

Five kilograms of the finished masonry mixture cost 60-70 rubles. One package is enough for 10-15 rows of pipes with a section of 125 by 250 mm (six).

Let's compare the cost of a meter of a metal sandwich pipe with a diameter of 250 mm and a brick pipe with a cross section of 250 by 250 mm. Just the kind that can be used for installing fireplace chimneys.

As you can see, the prices are almost the same. Of course, it is worth adding the price of masonry fluff, otter and head. But, given the best performance characteristics of brick pipes - no corrosion, high thermal resistance, it makes sense to spend money on such an acquisition. And if you are going to lay a brick chimney with your own hands, then it will cost almost half the price of metal sandwich pipes.

Calculation of the main parameters

At the design stage, it is necessary to determine the height of the chimney and the cross-sectional dimensions of the flue duct. The task of the calculation is to provide the optimal traction force. It should be sufficient to ensure that the required amount of air enters the furnace and all combustion products are removed to the fullest extent, and at the same time not too large so that hot gases have time to give up their heat.

Height

The height of the chimney must be selected taking into account the following requirements:

1. The minimum height difference between the grate and the top of the head is 5 m.
2. If the roof is covered with combustible material, such as shingles, the chimney cap must rise at least 1.5 m above it.
3. For roofs with non-combustible coating, the minimum distance to the top is 0.5 m.

The ridge of a pitched roof or a flat parapet in windy weather should not create support over the chimney. To do this, you must adhere to the following rules:

• if the pipe is located closer than 1.5 m in relation to the ridge or parapet, then it should rise above this element by at least 0.5 m;
• when moving away from the ridge or parapet at a distance of 1.5 to 3 m, the pipe head can be at the same height as this element;
• at a distance of more than 3 m, the top of the head can be placed below the ridge, at a height drawn through it, of an inclined line with an angle of 10 degrees relative to the horizontal.

If there is a higher building near the house, then the chimney should be erected 0.5 m above its roof.

The brick chimney is very neat and fits into any exterior

Section dimensions

If a furnace or boiler is to be connected to the chimney, then the dimensions of the section should be determined depending on the power of the heat generator:

• up to 3.5 kW: the channel is made half a brick in size - 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7 kW: 200x270 mm;
• over 7 kW: in two bricks - 270x270 mm.

The power of factory-made heat generators is indicated in the passport. If the stove or boiler is homemade, this parameter has to be determined independently. The calculation is carried out according to the formula:

W \u003d Vt * 0.63 * * 0.8 * E / t,

• W - heat generator power, kW;
• Vt - furnace volume, m3;
• 0.63 - average load factor of the furnace;
• 0.8 is an average coefficient showing what part of the fuel burns out in full;
• E is the calorific value of the fuel, kWh/m3;
• T is the burning time of one fuel load, h.

Usually they take T = 1 hour - approximately during this time a portion of fuel burns out during normal combustion.

The chimney can always be decorated if desired.

The calorific value E depends on the type of wood and its moisture content. The averages are:

• for poplar: at a moisture content of 12% E - 1856 kWh / cu. m, with a humidity of 25 and 50% - respectively 1448 and 636 kWh / m3;
• for spruce: at a humidity of 12, 25 and 50%, respectively, 2088, 1629 and 715 kWh / m3;
• for pine: respectively, 2413, 1882 and 826 kWh / m3;
• for birch: respectively, 3016, 2352 and 1033 kWh / m3;
• for oak: respectively, 3758, 2932 and 1287 kWh / m3.

For fireplaces, the calculation is somewhat different. Here, the cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney depends on the size of the furnace window: F = k * A.

• F - cross-sectional area of ​​the smoke channel, cm2;
• K - coefficient of proportionality, depending on the height of the chimney and the shape of its cross section;
• A is the area of ​​the furnace window, cm2.

The coefficient K is equal to the following values:

• with a chimney height of 5 m: for a circular section - 0.112, for a square one - 0.124, for a rectangular one - 0.132;
• 6 m: 0.105, 0.116, 0.123;
• 7 m: 0.1, 0.11, 0.117;
• 8 m: 0.095, 0.105, 0.112;
• 9 m: 0.091, 0.101, 0.106;
• 10 m: 0.087, 0.097, 0.102;
• 11 m: 0.089, 0.094, 0.098.

For intermediate heights, the K factor can be determined from a special graph.

This graph allows you to determine the coefficient K at intermediate values ​​​​of the height of the pipe

The actual dimensions of the chimney channel tend to be close to the calculated ones. But they are selected taking into account the standard sizes of bricks, blocks or cylindrical parts.

The efficiency of thermal energy generators, such as a boiler or furnace, is largely determined by the correct removal of fuel combustion products. The brick-lined chimney pipe has excellent draft and has a great appearance.

In addition, a brick chimney has a much longer service life than pipe or metal products. It is possible to make a brick chimney yourself if there is a scheme for laying it and at least initial tool skills are present. When performing this work, it is necessary to observe many technological subtleties.

A brick chimney will serve as a home decoration

Brick chimney properties

The main purpose of the chimney is the most complete removal of exhaust gases and the creation of good traction, without which it is impossible to maintain an effective combustion process. The brick structure has positive properties and is not free from disadvantages.

The advantages of this type of product include its lower cost in relation to chimneys made of sandwich pipes. The average service life is also much higher and is about thirty-five years, often exceeding this value.

In addition, the brick pipe gives the architectural appearance of the house a finished look, visually blending perfectly with many types of roofing, in particular, with tiles. Therefore, the traditional solution in the form of a brick pipe is still popular today.

The disadvantages of such a chimney include its large weight, which requires the creation of a reliable foundation, the duration and complexity of its construction. During construction, it is necessary to carefully observe all technological standards, deviation from them threatens with very unpleasant consequences.

Brick chimneys are very different

For the delivery of structural elements, special transport is required, which will have to be ordered and paid for. In addition, the rectangular shape of the internal section is not ideal for the removal of outflowing gases, they swirl in the corners and impair natural draft. In any case, after some time it may be necessary to clean the chimney, as described in the article.

Diagram of the device and the constituent elements of a brick chimney

It may seem that a brick chimney has a very simple device in the form of a rectangular pipe. The scheme of its engineering structure is much more complicated. We list the parts of a brick chimney that have their own name:

It should be noted that all extensions of the masonry are carried out only from the outside, the cross section of the chimney from the inside remains unchanged throughout its entire length. Instead of fluff, you can adapt a metal box filled with sand or expanded clay, that is, non-combustible materials. This solution simplifies the work and reduces the time of its implementation.

The functional purpose of this structural element is the same as that of fluff - preventing the ignition of ceiling materials. Note that the chimney can also be made inside the wall if it is made of non-combustible materials and has the required thickness. For a metal heating stove, it is also possible to fold the chimney out of bricks.

Not every brick is suitable for a pipe

Not every brick is suitable for arranging an exhaust pipe. High-quality material should not crack from temperature changes in the external environment and collapse from adverse atmospheric influences. It should resist high heat well and withstand harsh chemicals.

Fire protection of nearby elements of the building structure must be provided.

It is imperative to comply with all fire safety requirements. The laying of the chimney requires only high quality bricks, as it will be operated in very difficult conditions. Based on the degree of roasting, the following types are distinguished:

For the construction of a chimney, experts recommend using first-class bricks. Building material of the second grade should not be used for the reason that it does not fit the technical specifications. The foundation and the overhead pipe can be made of third-rate bricks. It is also possible to supply a metal stove with a brick chimney.

We observe restrictions when planning a chimney

Laying a stove chimney with your own hands should be done with unconditional consideration of the prevailing experience. When arranging a brick chimney, it is strongly recommended to comply with the requirements of building codes and regulations for the construction of such structures. The efficiency of its functioning and safety of use, the comfort of living in the house and the cleanliness of the air environment largely depend on this. Brick construction must meet the following parameters:

There should be a minimum number of horizontal sections in the chimney duct. In the event that it is impossible to do without them, the total length cannot be more than one meter. The elevation of the pipe above a flat roof should not be less than one meter. In the event that the distance to the ridge is less than one and a half meters, it must rise above it by more than fifty centimeters.

Rules for placing a brick pipe on the roof

In a situation where the specified distance is about three meters, the pipe head is located flush with the ridge. With a greater distance from the chimney, its outlet is placed along a line reduced by ten degrees from the horizon, drawn from the top of the roof.

The cross section of the internal channel must be constant throughout its entire length.

The stove chimney should be laid with the expansion of only the outer part. It is mandatory to install a spark arrester if combustible materials were used to cover the roof. The dimensions of the spark arrester grid cells are selected in such a way that they retain fine, not completely burned fuel particles well.

Determine the size and shape of the structure

The correctly calculated size of the chimney is directly related to the creation of high-quality traction; in this case, the combustion process of fuel occurs with high productivity. It is believed that for effective operation, the minimum height of the exhaust pipe should be approximately five meters. The fire safety of the structure is ensured by the thickness of its walls.

Dimensions and shape of the chimney as a subject of fantasy

The gap between the chimney and the wall is about forty centimeters; when passing through the ceiling, special expansions of the wall thickness are performed. The dimensions and shape of the chimney are calculated depending on the design features of the building and roof, the size of the heated rooms, and so on. The chimney must be in accordance with the general architectural appearance, so in a small country house a large pipe is out of place.

How to build a brick chimney with your own hands

Before laying out the stove chimney, it is necessary to draw up its diagram. Any chimney is a unique structure, and its parameters are determined by many factors. The chimney laying scheme should simplify its construction as much as possible.

Sometimes bricks are soaked before work, other craftsmen lay it dry. In the latter case, the binder solution is absorbed into the building material, and the masonry is less durable. Wet brick forms a stronger surface, but it takes longer to dry. Sometimes this is quite inconvenient, for example, before the imminent onset of winter cold.

We prepare the necessary materials and tools

To perform work from building materials, only brick and a binder solution are required. The choice of brick has already been written above, the cement mortar must also be of the highest quality. It is with its help that the excellent quality of the connection of structural elements under any adverse environmental influences is ensured. Parts of the exhaust system work in different conditions, so the composition of the cement slurry is different.

The foundation base of the root pipe is fastened with a mortar consisting of three parts of sand and one part of cement, with the addition of half a part of lime to improve its plastic qualities. In the segment before fluffing, a temperature of up to four hundred degrees Celsius develops, so a solution of clay with sand is used here. The neck and otter are held together with lime mortar, as here the temperature effect is low and the wind load is high.

The clay used for the solution should not smell strongly, since such a smell indicates the presence of organic impurities in its composition, causing cracking of the dried mixture. The sand should also be free of organic components. Mountain sand is well suited, as well as crushed sand-lime brick. To do the job, you will need the following tools:

To reduce the amount of waste in the form of a brick battle, a grinder can be used to cut bricks. At all stages of the work, accuracy and thoroughness are of great importance.

Mixing mortar for masonry

The preparation of the binder composition is a very crucial moment, which determines the strength and safety of the structure being erected. Before mixing the mortar for masonry, it is necessary to sift all its constituent components through a fine sieve. Only a homogeneous material is able to create a good quality binder mixture.

Special mixtures for laying chimneys are widely represented on the market.

With an increase in the cement fraction in it, the plasticity and mobility of the composition increase. Fillers are limestone, clay or sand. When mixing the solution, the quality and quantity of water, which is the main binding element of the components included in the composition, is important. To facilitate the work, you can use a construction mixer, and in its absence, the mixing of the solution is carried out manually.

Laying out the bottom of the chimney

The lower part is equipped according to the brickwork standard used in the construction of any objects. Each subsequent row is shifted with respect to the previous one by half a brick to the side to improve grip. A thin layer of cement mortar should be applied to obtain a strong and reliable connection.

Brickwork of pipes of different sections

The first two rows set the orientation of the entire structure, so they are laid out with maximum accuracy. With no less care, the entire bottom of the chimney is laid out.

Now we make the fluff and the smoke pipe barrel

The fluff is an expanding stepped structure, the next row of which is laid out with an expansion of about thirty-five millimeters. The widest part is displayed at the floor level of the attic space.

Ordering laying pipe fluff

The first row of the chimney shaft is mounted on top. Its parameters repeat the original size before fluffing. The riser gradually increases in height until it approaches the roof slab.

Arrangement of a pipe above the roof

To bring the pipe through the roofing, a pre-marked hole is cut out in it, for example, with an electric jigsaw. The final row of the chimney shaft is laid out above the outer part of the roofing by approximately the size of half a brick. Between the roof and the bricks, a heat-insulating gasket made of asbestos or other similar material is installed.

Ordering laying otter pipes

On top of the otter, with the return of the dimensions of the original section, the neck of the chimney is laid out. The structure rises to the required height. From above, with an expansion of approximately forty millimeters, the first row of the head is laid. Its height should be increased by two brick rows.

The nuances of using a chimney for a heating boiler

When installing a chimney for a boiler, some nuances must be taken into account. The diameter of the outlet pipe of the heat energy generator must correspond to the cross section of the chimney channel to which it is connected. If two units of thermal equipment are connected to the exhaust device, the cross section of the chimney increases to the total size of the outlet pipes.

The chimney for the boiler can be placed both inside and outside the building

The operation of boiler equipment is associated with a significant formation of condensed moisture. Combining with the products of combustion of fuel, water forms various chemical compounds, in particular, when combined with sulfur, sulfuric acid is obtained. In this case, wet brown spots appear on the outer surface of the brickwork.

To protect the walls of the chimney from the effects of aggressive chemical environments, the structure is sleeved, that is, a pipe made of metal that is not affected by corrosion processes or a cylindrical ceramic liner is inserted inside. The space between the sleeve and the walls of the chimney is filled with a material that does not support combustion.