Cooking furnaces for a summer residence from a brick wood. Brick ovens for wood-fired houses. How does a wood-burning brick oven work?

The need for warmth and comfort in a private house arises already in the middle of autumn, and it’s good if central heating is connected to the house. Those who have to heat their home autonomously will have to thoroughly prepare for the autumn-winter season. Modern boilers or electric fireplaces can solve the problem today, but they will not create that special unique atmosphere of a live fire in the stove, accompanied by crackling firewood. Therefore, it is quite correct if the following question arises for you: “How to fold a brick oven with your own hands?”. In this article, we will consider the process of creating a brick oven in stages, taking into account the schemes and all the materials and tools necessary during the process of laying. You just have to repeat all the described processes correctly, and you will become the owner of a solid home stove that will warm you on cold winter evenings.

It is very easy to make a brick oven if you have a clear idea of what type of oven will fit perfectly into the conditions of your building. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of private houses, and already starting from the information received, make the right choice. So, the types of furnaces are relative to the type of buildings.

Furnace in a wooden house. An oven of this type needs a very solid foundation. It is better to provide for the presence of a furnace even at the stage of building a house, then you can significantly reduce the cost of creating a foundation for furnace equipment. If the stove was not included in the house construction project, then you will have to spend money on the partial dismantling of the floors and subsequent finishing work. There is no other way out. The best option for a wooden house would be a compact stove made of heating and cooking type bricks of medium heat capacity, as well as a fireplace stove or a variant with a bread machine.
Classical Russian stove for a cottage. This option is losing popularity due to the massiveness and complexity of the masonry. Such a large-sized stove with the functions of cooking, heating water, heating and a sleeping place, that is, a lounger, is very convenient, but does not fit into a small house, and also requires the creation of an individual monolithic reinforced base.
Furnace in a country house. An ideal option for a country house would be a stove with a hob and a heating water tank.
The stove in the cottage or in the country. A cottage and a summer residence imply a visit only in a certain season or on weekends, which means that in such a building it will be sufficient to install a small brick oven with a hob. In this case, it is worth taking a closer look at the furnace structure, folded according to the summer version, when the heated air will be directed directly into the chimney, and not into the heat exchange channels.
The furnace for the house with a bath. If a bathhouse is attached to your house, it is quite acceptable to build a brick stove-heater with a built-in boiler for heating residential premises.
Barbecue oven. Such units are usually installed in attics, gazebos or summer kitchens. They can be modest in size or very impressive, but they are equally used only for cooking, therefore they are equipped, for example, with hobs, ovens, barbecue grills, barbecue grills, cast-iron cauldrons, etc.

Barbecue hob with oven

This is all that needs to be taken into account in order to correctly determine the type of suitable furnace equipment. You can move on.

Baker's advice. When deciding on the size of the furnace structure, first of all, pay attention to such points as comfort of use and fire safety!

Stage 2. Building material: choice

When choosing a brick, one must consider how resistant it will be to the effects of high temperatures, while the main emphasis should be placed on the integrity of the material after repeating the heating and cooling procedure. The characteristics of brick as a building material will determine the life of the furnace. It is important!

Choosing a brick

Any brick is marked. One of them stands for density. For furnaces, it is optimal to purchase bricks marked from 75 to 250, while it is worth remembering that the denser the product, the more slowly the furnace will have to be melted, and the slower it will heat up. On the other hand, a well-heated solid brick oven will slowly cool down, giving off its soft heat to the atmosphere.

If you plan to build a stove in a bathhouse, it is better to choose the least dense brick (but higher than M100) so that it does not take a lot of time to kindle. And for appliances intended for heating residential premises and cooking, it is worth buying a denser brick.

It is worth knowing that the density indicator is not a sign of brick quality. However, it is better to clarify the composition so as not to purchase a product with chemical impurities hazardous to health.

The next marking is the frost resistance of the product. This indicator is especially important (and should be the highest) for that part of the chimney that is located above the roof. Frost resistance itself is the property of a product to absorb moisture, which deforms the material during crystallization. Hollow facing bricks have the best frost resistance indicators, while the inner part of the chimney can be laid out of solid red brick. High-quality products with a high level of frost resistance are produced in the Novgorod region, the city of Borovichi.

It is advisable to purchase red bricks made by plastic molding. There are few pores in these products, they withstand temperature changes well, the masonry does not crack even after a long downtime of the furnace. Products silicate, pressed, cast by the method of slip casting, unfired raw materials are not suitable for the construction of furnaces.

The fireclay brick, made in accordance with GOST, can withstand up to 1350 degrees. From such a brick, you can build the entire furnace or use it only for lining the internal working surfaces of the furnace. For laying the firebox, you can use straw-yellow products of the Sh8 brand with dark patches, fireclay bricks Sh22 - Sh45 are suitable for the furnace vault. However, this recommendation does not apply to sauna stoves, because fireclay bricks are operated only at a humidity of less than 60%. In the bath, it is better to use clinker bricks or ceramic refractory bricks.

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

How to check the quality of bricks:

if you drop the product on the floor, it will break into large pieces. If the brick crumbled into crumbs, discard the batch;
if you touch a brick, it does not generate dust;
if a quality product is hit with a hammer, there will be a clear, sonorous, long sound;
the edges of a good brick are even, the color is rich and even.

GOST 530-2012. CERAMIC BRICK AND STONE. Download file

GOST 8691-73. REFRACTORY PRODUCTS OF GENERAL PURPOSE. SHAPE AND DIMENSIONS. Download file

Choosing a mortar

The choice of mortar is an important point. If the solution is not correct, the stove will smoke, and cracks may appear on the surface of the structure very soon.

Most often, masonry mortar is prepared from fine-grained sifted river sand (grains of sand maximum 1.5 mm each) and clay, which must be soaked for several hours before kneading. Soaked clay is rubbed through a sieve to get rid of lumps, because the masonry seam should not exceed five millimeters in thickness.

Clay mortar - preparation

The proportions for the clay mortar depend on the quality of the clay - the fatter it is, the more sand, but it is important not to make the mortar too thin, which will dry out and crack. It is recommended to make several test mixing solutions to determine the desired proportions of sand and clay, while it is important to mix the sand thoroughly, adding it in several steps.

A test for fat content is done by taking half a fist of the material, moistening it and kneading it well, rolling it into a ball, and then placing and squeezing it between two smooth planks. If the ball was squeezed by a third of its diameter and no cracks appeared, then the solution is suitable for laying the furnace. Additional quality control - drying a ball with a diameter of 5 cm in air for 20 days. A dried ball of good quality will not crumple when pressed against it.

How much water to pour? Again we make test batches and check the degree of fluidity of the solution. We draw a trowel over the mixed solution and look at the trace:

if it is torn, then there is not enough water;
if almost instantly swam, - an excess of moisture;
if the trace is clear, and the edges are even, then the mortar is suitable for laying the furnace.

Figures 5 and 6 show a trowel that has been dipped into the solution. In the first case, it is too greasy, streaky stains remain on the trowel, you need to add a little sand, and in the second case (Fig. 6) the solution is good, the metal is slightly translucent, and the stains are patterned.

Note! For mixing the masonry mixture, it is desirable to use soft water. Too hard, that is, 8 degrees and above, will reduce the degree of strength of the solution.

The last suitability test is carried out by spreading a layer of 3 mm on the bed of bricks. The second brick is glued to the first, tapped with a mallet and wait up to 5-10 minutes. During the specified time, both bricks should stick together. If the bricks do not spill even when shaken, the furnace is guaranteed to stand for a hundred years.

Note! For laying the firebox, either chamotte sand or a mixture of equal parts of chamotte and quartz sand is added to the solution.

Video - Preparation of clay mortar for laying the oven

Clay mortar for laying the foundation and fluffing the chimney is not used. For these elements, a classic cement mortar or with the addition of lime paste is used (cement M500 or M600 - 1 part, lime dough - from 9 to 16 parts).

Important! If you think that you cannot cope with the preparation, testing and kneading of the clay solution, purchase ready-made oven mixtures, for example, Terracotta (20 kg 306 rubles). For red brick, a mixture with red clay is suitable, and gray refractory mixtures are ideal for both red and fireclay bricks. Do not purchase ready-made mixtures containing cement.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Stage 3. Selection and calculation of the number of bricks for masonry

At the second stage, it is necessary to carry out the optimal calculation of the dimensions of the brick oven. By setting the final size of the furnace structure, you can set the required number of bricks. Brick red solid unary has a fixed size of 250 (length) x 120 (width) x 65 (thickness) mm with a deviation of +/- 2 mm.

Refractory fireclay bricks, from which the firebox is laid out in almost all furnaces, are manufactured and marked in accordance with GOST 8691-73. See table for size information.

For one square meter of half-brick masonry you will need:

excluding mortar joint - 61 bricks;
including mortar joints - 57 pieces and 0.011 cubic meters of masonry mortar.

Accordingly, for two square meters of brickwork, 122 or 113 solid red bricks will be needed, and the estimated amount of mortar used will be 0.022 m3.

Please note that when laying in one brick, that is, if the furnace wall thickness is not 120, but already 250 mm, then 128 or 115 bricks will be used for each square meter, respectively, excluding and taking into account mortar joints, and the amount of masonry mixture will increase up to 0.027 m3.

How is a simplified calculation of the approximate number of bricks for the entire furnace:

the number of bricks in the first row is calculated;
the resulting value is multiplied by the number of oven rows;
the number found is multiplied by 0.8 (for heaters) or 0.65 (for appliances with a heating shield).

For example, let's calculate the number of bricks per oven with dimensions of 90x90 cm. There are 3.5 bricks per 900 mm. That is, in the first row there will be 24.5 pieces. We multiply by the number of rows 24.5x30, we get 735 pcs. We accept a coefficient of 0.65x735 pcs. = 477.75 pieces, round up to 480 and add 10% for rejection.

The number of bricks per pipe is considered separately. Its height and design are accepted in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.09.03-85 (“Chimneys”), which will be detailed below. For a straight four-meter pipe you will need:

We consider: 4x56 = 224 pcs. For the otter, cutting and fluff, add another 56 bricks and multiply the result by 10%. It remains only to sum the number of bricks for the stove with the same amount for the chimney.

You can more accurately calculate the amount of material by compiling or taking into work the existing ordering scheme, which shows the longitudinal and transverse sections of the furnace, gives recommendations for laying the chimney and the dimensions of all elements, including doors.

This information can be used in practice, forming an individual plan for the cost of brick material.

It is worth noting: if you want to end up with a perfect brick oven that fits perfectly into your home, be as careful as possible, starting with the choice of furnace equipment and ending with its commissioning. This approach will allow you to enjoy your personal creation for a long time in the future.

Stage 4. Stove location selection

So, after you have decided on the type of furnace, determined the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace structure, and also selected building material and mortar, proceed to choosing a place for installing the furnace.

Typically, the stove is installed in one of the corners of the room or against the wall - this saves precious meters of living space.

The heating stove can be located in the center of the house, at the same time being in several adjacent rooms at once with its different faces, for example, a firebox will go into the kitchen, and three other walls will heat the rooms.

It is better to build a sauna heater near the door to the steam room. This will ensure proper temperature and humidity conditions and allow air masses to circulate efficiently (provided that the exhaust and supply vents are correctly located).

However, you need to remember about the distances between the surfaces of the furnace, chimney and walls, ceiling. According to SNiP 2.04.05-91, it is worth adhering to the following distances:

Heating furnaces, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for the production and acceptance of work

Stone and furnace works. Downloads pdf

Stage 5. Foundation

A furnace made of bricks has a large specific gravity, therefore, without a reliable foundation, the structure cannot be installed.

The foundation for the furnace can be monolithic reinforced concrete, piled, columnar, laid out of blocks, pile-screw.

Regardless of the type, the foundation of the stove should not be connected to the base of the house. The type of foundation is chosen, as for the house, starting from the type of soil.

Gravel-sandy soil allows you to equip a shallow base.
If the soil is clayey or sedimentary, it is better to fill the foundation on a crushed stone cushion, while deepening it to the level of freezing.
In permafrost zones, a pile-screw base is equipped, paying special attention to the thermal insulation of piles.
On dry rocky soils, the foundation may have a minimum thickness or be absent altogether.
Bulk soil is not suitable for installing a brick oven.

Consider the method of arranging solid bases for a brick oven.

Step 1. Depending on the type of soil and the level of its freezing, we dig a pit. We accept the width and shape based on the dimensions of the furnace and adding 10-15 cm to its length and width, respectively. Immediately pay attention to the location of the ceiling beams - a chimney pipe will have to pass between them, and taking into account the indents regulated by SNiP. It is also recommended to make drainage (drainage) from the foundation of the furnace in order to reduce moisture and heaving of the soil.

Step 2 The bottom of the pit is rammed and leveled horizontally as much as possible. We pour a ten-centimeter layer of small broken bricks, rubble stone or rubble. We repeat the tamping procedure.

Step 3 We prepare a liquid cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3) and fill it with an embankment.

combine 10 cm layers of crushed stone backfill with cement fill. This option is acceptable for bases of small depth, namely up to 50 cm;
install the reinforcing cage and pour it with concrete. The frame is knitted with a wire made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm. The cell size is 10x10 cm. Formwork is installed in the pit, the frame must be 5 cm from its walls and bottom, for which plastic clamps or pieces of brick are used. Concrete is poured inside, the mixture is compacted during pouring with a deep vibrator or a metal bar. The top point of the pour should be 15 cm below the level of the finished floor;
pour a concrete reinforced slab, on top of which lay the foundation walls from silicate or red brick, and pour the inside with concrete with backfill (loose aggregate should be less than or equal to the volume of concrete).

The first and third versions of the bases are completed with a layer of cement mortar. The filled layer is checked with a level and, if necessary, leveled with a rule or other suitable tool.

Further work is carried out after the complete drying of the solutions used in the process of pouring the foundation.

Step 5 We lay the waterproofing in three layers, fix it with mastic (for roofing we use tar, for roofing material - bituminous).

Step 6. We lay out a continuous row of bricks. We put whole bricks around the edges, halves - inside. The brick base should be 5-7 cm of the existing foundation, but 5-7 cm wider than the stove itself.

We do not use cement to bind bricks together. On top of the masonry, which we also check for horizontality, we put another layer of waterproofing, then lay out the second layer of brick, observing the dressing between the two rows. The brick base should ideally be exactly flush with the finished floor or rise 3-4 cm above it.

Important note! Do not use bricks for construction that have lain on the street all winter and have been repeatedly wet and frozen. Such products can quickly collapse, which will greatly reduce the service life of the furnace.

We cover the space between the foundation of the furnace and the house with river sand.

Stage 6. Construction of a stove-heater with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

This project can be implemented both in a separate bathhouse and in a steam room attached to a residential building. The stove does not have a tank for heating water and a heat exchanger, but there is a hob on which it is easy to heat water for 4-6 people. At the same time, the oven cools down very slowly, so there will be warm water even the next morning after the procedures, and in the room, even in winter, the temperature will not drop below +15 degrees for more than a day. The stove will heat up a steam room measuring 3.3x5 meters and with a ceiling height of 2 meters up to eighty degrees in about 5-6 hours.

The heater itself will be located in the steam room, and fuel will be loaded from the rest room. Bath stones, which hold about 40 kg (soapstone), are loaded into a special oven, where they are evenly heated, so that the steam in the bath is dry and quite thick, hot.

The height of the furnace will be approximately 1.33 meters. The oven is square, side 0.89 meters. Using these data, calculate the dimensions of the foundation and lay / fill it in advance.

During the construction of the furnace (the chimney is not taken into account), the following will be used:

269 red bricks;
63 refractory bricks ShA-8;
cast-iron furnace door with dimensions of 0.21x0.25 m;
Stove door - example
door for blower 0.14x0.25 m;
two cleaning doors 0.14x0.14 m;
grate 0.38x0.25 m;
two-burner cast iron hob 0.51x0.34 m;
oven for laying stones with dimensions of 0.25x0.25x0.44 m;
one valve for the "summer" mode with dimensions of 0.13x0.13 m;
one valve for the chimney, size 0.13x0.25 m;
pre-furnace steel sheet with a size of at least 50x70 cm.

the key in brickwork is the construction seam. It should be uniform for each row, carefully smeared. Only in this way will you get the solidity of the furnace structure, and eliminate the leakage of smoke from the fuel chamber. Follow the process with the utmost care;
before laying the brick, it must be well moistened. To do this, prepare a container with water and lower the bricks for 5-10 minutes in water. This time is enough for the adhesion of clay and brick to be at the highest level in the future. Wet brick after drying eliminates the occurrence of cracks in the finished furnace structure. We keep the bricks in the water until air bubbles stop coming out. Refractory bricks are not soaked, but only moistened with water;
before laying each subsequent row, use a building level and a plumb line - the use of these tools in the workflow is a guarantee that the structure will be free from geometric distortions and distortions.

The first row is laid out of red brick. In total, you will need 24 whole and one brick sawn in two. Lay the row very evenly, check the horizontal position along the sides and axes of the masonry with a meter level. Check with a tape measure for squareness and alignment. We adjust the bricks with a rubber mallet. We make seams no more than five millimeters.

The second row does not differ from the first either in the quantity of bricks or in its quality. One has only to carefully observe the dressing between the two rows. It is better to start laying from the corners, gradually filling the middle.

For the third row, take twenty red bricks and an ash chamber door. We lay sixteen bricks whole, we cut four more with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal with a tungsten carbide blade (see the drawing for the accuracy of cutting the elements).

Wet the brick before cutting and fix it securely. We comply with safety regulations!!!

Cutting a brick with a grinder - photo

Video - How to cut a brick

Video - Sawing an oven brick with a grinder

We are not in a hurry to apply the solution, first we lay out the entire row dry! Bricks must not be laid with the cut (cut off) side inside the firebox or chimney. It is also strictly forbidden to lubricate the inner surfaces of the channels and the firebox with clay.

If the brick is laid unsuccessfully, we remove it, clean it from the mortar, soak it again, apply a new mortar with a trowel, and then re-adjust it.

We fix the door in the same row, for this we wrap the door frame around the perimeter with an asbestos cord, cover it with a solution, insert and twist a steel knitting wire (diameter 3-4 mm, length 1-1.2 m, the number of bars for twisting from 3 to 4 ) into the holes in the corners of the frame, and the resulting wire twists are passed between the rows of bricks.

Fastening the door with wire - the upper ends of the wire are laid between the bricks

Installing the oven door - photo

Video - How to attach the wire to the door

Video - How to fix the oven door blower

Clay mortar and the weight of the bricks will securely hold the door frame.

Another way to install the door is using metal strips or plates that are widened at the ends. The elements are attached to the door frame by riveting, after which they are fixed in the masonry joints. If the plates are too thick, it is better to carve grooves on the bricks.

The accuracy of the door installation is checked by a plumb line and level.

Advice. To make the cleaning door fit more accurately and accurately, chamfer the bricks that will be located around the perimeter of the door frame. That is, the hole for installing the door should be 5 mm longer and wider than the frame.

Don't worry if you can only lay out three rows in a day. Soaking, trimming, trimming and laying require time, patience and precision.

In the fourth row, we continue to form the ash chamber, additionally laying out the lower horizontal channel. For the entire row, 16 bricks are required. For the channel, we immediately put a door 0.14x0.14 m. The door can be fixed without asbestos, just on the solution, since in this place the temperature will be low, and the thermal expansion of the metal is minimal.

For the fifth row, we take 16 and a half red bricks. We cut four of them obliquely to make the door overlap using the “lock” method. Bricks are laid with the beveled side up. We cut off two more bricks obliquely, forming an overlap.

Row 6

In the sixth row, fireclay bricks will be used in the amount of six and a half pieces and red brick - 12 pieces. It is shown in yellow on the diagram. We lay out the base of the fuel chamber from fireclay. We make slots for laying the grate. The hole for the grating should be 5-7 mm larger than it so that the expanding metal does not destroy the masonry. The space between the grate and the bricks (bevels) is covered with sand.

Experienced stove-makers advise laying the grate with a slight, up to three centimeters, slope towards the stove door.

We close the cleaning door with one brick.

In this row of 9 red and 5 fireclay bricks we form a fuel chamber. The brick, which is placed in the back of the firebox, is cut obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees.

We install the door using asbestos cord. Door size 21x25 cm.

We also place a welded oven made of steel 8 mm thick. The back of the cabinet will be in the fuel chamber. The door of the closet is slightly less than its height, that is, it is raised, due to which the bath stones will not fall out on the floor.

We carry out laying according to the ordering schemes. For work, we take seven bricks of red and fireclay.

For the ninth row, you will need 6.5 red and 7 fireclay bricks. We build the walls of the firebox.

In this row, by the “lock” method already discussed above, we close the furnace door. The whole row will take 7 red, 8 fireclay bricks and another 1 fireclay hewn with a wedge.

We take 10 and a half fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks. Close the door and back of the oven. We lay bricks, connecting the firebox with the nearest vertically located channel. Another channel is formed above the cabinet - we install a door there.

We take 12 red and 9 fireclay bricks. We make squeezing, as shown in the diagram, we also make a recess for the hob, taking into account the required five-millimeter gaps. We lay the hob 51x34 cm, we do not use the solution.

We install the valve in the near vertical channel. To install a metal element, we make slots in the brick, as shown in the diagrams. The far vertical channel, starting from this row, bifurcates.

Gate valve in the furnace - photo

For work, we take 9 fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks.

We begin to form a decorative niche, for which we use 15.5 red bricks. Chamotte is no longer used.

We combine the near channel and the central one. We use 13.5 bricks.

We continue laying in order. We take 14 and a half bricks.

We block the far channel and the central one. We cut two bricks over the niche obliquely to make a castle floor. We also cut the brick obliquely over the hob. We lay the wedge brick in the castle. Consumption per row - 18 pcs.

We block the furnace completely, with the exception of the near channel. We make cutouts in this channel to install a 13x25 cm valve. We cut another brick obliquely above the slab. Consumption - 16 pcs.

From 17 and a half bricks we make a second overlap, leaving only a smoke channel measuring 13x13 cm.

From four bricks we form the base of the chimney pipe.

With dressing we put the second row of the pipe.

Video - Description of the construction of the furnace

The inner surfaces of the stove should be as smooth as possible so that soot does not accumulate on them, therefore, during the masonry process, the protruding clay must be cleaned off or scraped off.

How to dry the oven? We leave the unit with the valves and doors open for about a week. Without closing the doors, we put quite a bit of fuel into the furnace to slightly warm the walls. The next day, we repeat the operation, increasing the amount of fuel. However, the doors are not closed. When there are no wet marks left on the walls, and condensate on the valve, the stove is ready for the first real firebox.

Video - Do-it-yourself stove in the bath

Video - Drying oven

After drying, the stove can be heated and the draft in it can be checked by opening the valves, then bringing a burning match to the open door of the firebox. If the flame deviates into the furnace, then there is a thrust.

The draft depends on the chimney, which in turn must be at least five meters long, if you count from the grate. More precisely, the height of the chimney above the roof can be determined from the picture. But remember that wet pipes will have slightly weaker traction.

It is recommended to whitewash a brick pipe in two layers with chalk or lime so that furnace gas leaks immediately become noticeable. A faulty pipe is immediately repaired. Above the roof, the chimney pipe must be plastered, and cement, cement-lime or just lime mortar is used for masonry, while the brick is chosen to be of the highest quality, without chips, cracks, or other defects.

Do not forget to clean the stove - in the spring if you plan to heat the bath in the summer and twice a year if you use it constantly. If cracks appear, immediately repair them with clay mortar, applying and leveling it with a trowel.

Video - How to fold the oven with your own hands

Video - Laying the first row of bricks

Despite the development of new technologies in the field of heating, a conventional wood-fired brick oven remains the main source of heat in many private and country houses, garages and various outbuildings. But the construction of even a simple heating stove costs money - the homeowner needs to buy materials and pay for the services of a stove master. To save on construction, we suggest laying down a brick oven with your own hands. Below we will tell you how to build it correctly, we will provide drawings and masonry ordering schemes.

Furnace project selection

There are countless designs for wood-burning brick ovens, and experienced craftsmen are constantly coming up with new designs. It will not be easy for the owner of the house, who decides to build a brick stove, to choose a suitable heater. Therefore, first give clear answers to the following questions:

What tasks should a brick oven solve in your house, will it only be a heating one, or will it need to be used to cook food and heat water?
How much space are you willing to allocate for the construction of the stove when building a new house?
If a cottage or a house has already been built, then you need to think about the location of the heater and the passage of the ceilings with a chimney. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the device of a separate foundation.
Decide in advance on the design, you may wish to build a fireplace stove with panoramic glass.

The only complex element of the brazier is an arched vault, which is laid out according to a wooden template.

Advice. At first, a beginner should not take on the laying of a serious brick oven in the house, but to begin with, lay down something simple and small in the yard - a barbecue or barbecue, since there are quite a lot of such projects published. Having trained and stuffed your hand, you will understand the nuances of this work and start building a home heater more confidently.

Scheme of laying a street barbecue with lockers

Of course, it is unlikely that an ignorant person will be able to build a beautiful stove with built-in panoramic glass with their own hands. But after all, to perform these works and consultations, you can always invite a stove-maker. As a rule, these people are friendly, because the construction of a hearth must always be approached with a soul. As for choosing a project, you are offered 3 simple options:

conventional hob for 2 burners with a tank for heating water;
channel heating furnace - Dutch;
heating and cooking stove of classical design.

The technology for building the original rocket stove is presented in ours.

Cooker with water boiler

This stove has dimensions of 890 x 510 mm and is designed for cooking with simultaneous heating of water in a tank located on the path of flue gases leaving the furnace. The total heat transfer of the stove is 1.2 kW when laying firewood twice a day. This furnace is shown below in sectional drawings:

The stove is provided with a tank-boiler connected to the water heating system of the house

Such a small-sized do-it-yourself brick oven is quite simple in execution and will take up little space in the kitchen. Subsequently, a heating shield can be attached to it in order to take more heat from the flue gases. The laying diagram below shows the order of the furnace:

To fold the hob yourself, you must first purchase the following materials and oven fittings:

full-bodied ceramic brick - 185 pcs.;
cast iron stove for 2 burners measuring 530 x 180;
firebox door 250 x 210, ash pan 130 x 140, revision door 130 x 140;
equal-shelf corner 30 x 4 - 3.6 m;
oven 320 x 270 x 400;
water tank 150 x 350 x 450.

Also, roofing steel and sheet asbestos with dimensions of 115 x 64 cm are required for lining under the stove, and a sheet of metal 50 x 70 cm is needed for laying on the floor in front of the stove.

Dutch channel stove

This classic duct-type heating stove really comes from Holland. Its advantages are simplicity and undemanding to the quality of materials, and the body of the stove can also be increased arbitrarily in height and thus heat rooms on two floors. In addition, the Dutch woman can be safely considered a mini-oven, since it occupies a small area.

Making the simplest Dutch stove for 3 channels, shown below in the drawing, for an experienced craftsman will not be very difficult. A beginner will have to work hard to make high-quality masonry with dimensions in terms of 1010 x 510 mm, extending to a height of more than 2 m plus a chimney. But first, it is proposed to familiarize yourself with the masonry scheme of this brick oven and the orders:

From the drawing it is easy to understand the principle of operation of the Dutch woman - combustion products heat the walls of the heater, moving along the internal vertical channels

For construction, the following materials will be required:

full-bodied ceramic brick - 390 pcs.;
grates 250 x 250 (cast iron or steel grate);
firebox door 250 x 210, ash pan 140 x 140, revision door 140 x 140;
metal gate valve 130 x 130;
asbestos sheet 1000 x 500;
the same sheet of roofing steel.

Heating and cooking oven

The design of this heat source is already more complex, although outwardly the stove resembles the same Dutch stove. Its dimensions are 650 x 510 mm, and the developed thermal power is about 1.5 kW. By the name of a brick oven - heating and cooking - it is easy to understand that it is designed both for heating rooms in the house and for cooking. The construction scheme is shown in the figure:

Scheme of a combined stove for heating and cooking

An important point. If you carefully study the diagram, you can understand that the summer mode of operation in this simple design is not provided.

This means that cooking in the summer on the stove will be hot if it is located in the house. You will have to cook in a different way or choose a more suitable heat source design. Homeowners who are not embarrassed by this fact are offered a list of materials and procedures in order to successfully fold a brick oven:

full-bodied ceramic brick - 211 pcs.;
cast iron stove for 1 burner measuring 360 x 410;
grate 250 x 250;
firebox door 250 x 210, ash pan 130 x 140, inspection door 130 x 140, ventilation door 130 x 75;
equal-shelf corner 32 x 4 - 300 mm;
valve 140 x 140;
knitting wire with a diameter of 1.5 - 5 m.

The grates are installed on the bricks of the 5th row, the cast-iron hob - on the 10th

What kind of brick to lay the oven

The main building material for the construction of the furnace is red ceramic brick grade 150, made from baked clay. Its dimensions are standard - 250 x 120 x 65 mm, although in the past other stones were also produced for the furnace business. But now all the dimensions are unified, so that the fireclay (refractory) brick, from which the furnace firebox is often laid out, is the same size as the usual one.

In construction, a stone 88 mm high is still used, but it is not suitable for laying furnaces, since it has cavities. Here, only a solid stone is required, without voids and cracks, of good quality. True, there is 1 exception - the Dutch oven, it can be laid from used bricks. But it’s not worth bringing to the point of absurdity, a heat source made of cobblestones will definitely not heat.

The fact is that a heating and cooking stove built with your own hands from low-quality red brick can crack even at the stage of drying the masonry mortar. It should be noted that the clay mortar dries up, and does not harden, like cement. Therefore, beginners are not recommended to experiment with bad or used bricks, otherwise the newly built oven will immediately require repair.

A firebox for a wood-burning stove is formed from fireclay stone (if required by the project)

A separate recommendation concerns masonry mortar. At first, you should not go to the nearest ravine for clay, because it still needs to be brought to the correct condition. It is better to buy a ready-made mortar for laying stoves, clay or fireclay.

How to build an oven

In the vast majority of cases, construction begins with the construction of a foundation for a future heat source. An exception may be outdoor mini-ovens, which, due to their low weight, are sometimes placed directly on the concrete screed of the yard. All others, regardless of location, must be built on a solid foundation. Moreover, it is not allowed that the foundation of the furnace is connected with the base of the house or arranged close to it, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 5 cm, and preferably 10.

Important. Failure to comply with this requirement may lead to the fact that after a year or two the oven may crack and even deviate from the vertical.

If the house has a good foundation in the form of a cement screed, and the total weight of the furnace does not exceed 750 kg, then no foundation is required; The structures given in the previous section have a weight of over 750 kg, and therefore it is necessary to arrange a reliable foundation for them. The foundations for the furnace are of 2 types: rubble and reinforced concrete.

Regardless of the type of base, you first need to dig a hole whose dimensions exceed the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace by 10 cm in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of black earth or other subsiding soil, while the base of the foundation must rest on a denser layer. In the first case, the pit is laid with rubble stone with dressing, using a solution of the following components:

sand - 6 parts;
cement - 1 part;
lime mixed with water - 1 part.

All voids between the stones are also filled with this solution, and the upper part, located at a depth of 80 mm from the floor, is leveled with it. The reinforced concrete base is poured with formwork and reinforcing mesh, having previously poured a pillow of crushed stone 10 cm thick onto the bottom of the pit.

Important. After the mortar or concrete has hardened, a waterproofing barrier made of roofing felt in 2 layers must be laid on top of the foundation.

The laying of the furnace is carried out in accordance with the orders in compliance with the thickness of the seams within 3 ... 5 mm. A few recommendations:

How to fold a small oven at home is described in detail in the video:

It is clear that the first time a newly-made master will not be able to lay down a beautiful stove due to lack of experience. But this is fixable, because outside you can make a brick wall cladding using staining. Previously, they were plastered and covered with two layers of whitewash of chalk or lime, but now there are simpler and more convenient means. In addition, lime is easily transferred to clothing when accidentally touched and constantly needs to be updated.

If we talk about how you can paint a brick oven, then there are such options:

organosilicon heat-resistant enamel grade KO, designed for high temperatures;
silicate or acrylic paints;
heat-resistant varnish (for example, PF-238) mixed with dye.

The most preferred option is transparent enamel KO-85, KO-174 and KO-813. It is suitable both for the furnace itself and for painting metal parts, as it can withstand temperatures up to 600 ° C. Silicate and acrylic paints will not last as long, but they are cheaper. Also, the stove can be painted with transparent varnish PF-238 or mixed with gouache of the desired color, as shown above in the photo.

In any case, the coating is applied for 2 times, the second layer is applied after the first has dried. The tool used is a brush and a roller. It is desirable to pre-treat the surface with a special primer composition designed specifically for such purposes.

Conclusion

Of course, it is unrealistic to deeply reveal all the nuances of a complex furnace business within the framework of one article, we have described only the main points. To successfully build your first brick oven, a novice home craftsman should study the relevant literature and practice masonry. The preparatory stage is no less important - you should choose the right materials, prepare tools and fixtures.

Building brick ovens for the house is not for you to play with cubes. And if it’s in “cubes”, then in a smart, adult way ...

Brick ovens transfer heat to the environment by radiation from heated brick walls, this heat transfer is “joined” by the convective movement of unevenly heated air masses in the room.

A brick oven is able to accumulate heat. Its most significant drawback or advantage (this is how you look) is a large thermal inertia. After a short heating (2 - 3 hours), it will give off heat for a long time (12-20 hours). But, pay attention, it will begin to give off a few hours after the start of burning the fuel - at first it will warm up itself, and then it will only begin to “share” the heat ...

The choice of the furnace and its dimensions depend on the mode of residence in the house. A brick oven is relevant for a house of permanent residence, where it is supposed to maintain a constant temperature regime. Country houses in the non-residential period are prone to "freezing". Therefore, a massive brick oven for a summer residence may be ineffective due to its long heating. A furnace capable of rapid heating and long cooling is desirable here.

Considering all varieties of existing stoves, we can make an unambiguous conclusion that brick heating stoves are the most effective option for stove space heating. Using various furnace configurations, it is possible to fold the furnace with certain operating parameters.

What are brick ovens?

But still, first of all, it is necessary to determine the purpose of the furnace, respectively, with its type:

heating option ("Dutch");
heating and cooking configuration (the famous Russian stove, a stove with an oven and a heating shield, "Swedes", etc.);
just a cooking stove (kitchen hearth, outdoor barbecue, stove under a cauldron);
a special narrowly focused stove (a stove for a sauna, a greenhouse stove, a water heating boiler, a garage stove, etc.).

For giving, they mainly choose the heating version of the stove or heating and cooking. The second option is also equipped with a hob and, if necessary, an oven - an “oven”. And lovers of a quiet pastime with the contemplation of an open fire should think about building a fireplace.

Note! Fireplaces - as sources of heat, they mainly transfer it to us by radiation. Therefore, we feel heat immediately after it is kindled, but it will not work to keep the heat in a direct-flow fireplace for a long time.

According to their form, they are divided into:

rectangular;
square;
corner;
round;
T-like.

The heat transfer parameters of furnaces also depend on the thickness of their walls. Distinguish:

thin-walled;
thick-walled;
combined.

Furnaces are subjected to four main types of external finishes:

brick "for jointing";
plastered oven;
binding with stove tiles, tiles;
"dressed" in a metal case.

Regarding the structure of the chimney channels, stoves are distinguished:

direct-flow or counter-current;
with horizontal or vertical channels;
single-turn or multi-turn;
channelless;
with bottom heat.

How to place the stove in the house?

The place of "residence" of the furnace in the house is determined based on several parameters:

area of the house;
number of heated rooms;
type and purpose of the furnace;
options for the removal of gases;
fire safety.

The installation of one stove in the house should ensure uniform heating of all rooms. Otherwise, it is necessary to organize water heating or install another stove.

For heating the premises adjacent to the kitchen, you can put a heating and cooking stove. The hob of the oven will be located in the kitchen, and the heat-releasing wall will heat the room.

The construction of a stone house provides an opportunity to provide for the laying of chimneys in the main stone walls - this will save the usable volume of the room and allow heating the rooms bordering the wall.

When the furnace is located at the junction of several rooms, it must be positioned so that the heat-releasing surfaces are proportionally located relative to the area of \u200b\u200beach room and their heat loss. That is, the stove should be in maximum contact with the room that needs the most heat.

For the location of the firebox, choose a kitchen or a corridor. Well-planned brick ovens for the home should be invisible. That is, do not clutter up the "living space", harmoniously fit into the interior of the premises. For example, the variant of the combined two-sided construction "stove-fireplace" is interesting and widespread. There is a stove in one room, a fireplace in another, and the inner wall and the entire chimney system are common.

Brick heating stoves are not lightweight portable structures. Location planning is important. At the same time, you should also keep in mind the ease of maintenance of this furnace.

Pay attention to the correspondence of the design chimney and a convenient place in the ceiling to bring it to the roof - you can get into the beam, and in the attic - into the rafters.

You can use the free SketchUp software to design ovens.

Features of masonry stoves

Brick ovens for the home have a fairly large mass and, of course, must stand on their foundation. A solid base 8-1 is an additional guarantee for the normal long-term operation of the oven.

A lighter brick oven for summer cottages (weight up to 750 kg, number of bricks - about 200 pieces) can be built directly on the floor with sufficient strength.

The foundation for a massive kiln must be poured on stable, dense layers of soil to avoid settlement of the entire kiln. Therefore, the top layer of fertile loose soil is removed to a depth of 10 to 70 cm.

The size of the foundation should initially already be larger than the size of the base of the furnace by about 8-15 cm in all directions.

Important! You can not connect the foundation of the house with the foundation of the furnace. Uneven shrinkage will lead to deformation and destruction of the foundation. Therefore, when the foundations are adjacent, a gap of 5 cm is left between them.

The laying depth is 0.8-1 m, the upper plane is poured 14 cm below the level of the future clean floor, in order to later display its “starting” mark simply with brickwork.

Necessarily! Between the foundation and the furnace, at least two layers of roofing material are laid as waterproofing. Ignoring this point will lead to the absorption of moisture by the "body" of the furnace, which will lead to excessive fuel consumption for the evaporation of moisture from the brick and to its premature destruction.

They build a brick stove for a summer residence of such a design that will provide the fastest heating of the room; a more massive version can be used for a residential building.

The “correct” brick stoves for summer cottages, wood-burning or coal-fired, require their active “heating” for 1.5-2 hours, after which they give off heat for 10-20 hours. Choose the right project for you, consult with a specialist. And hire him to work...

Brick ovens are natural heaters that do not require large material and labor costs. With good traction and full regulation of the air in the house, it will always be clean and warm. Installing a brick stove by professional bricklayers is expensive, so you can organize the process yourself.

Kiln laying projects allow you to assemble brick structures without the help of specialists. The Russian cooking and heating and Buslaev's stove (Swedish type) are very popular. The following is a detailed description of each type of structure.

Assembled according to the "Swede" type, it is considered the best option for a brick house. The scheme of its assembly is quite simple and reliable.

A properly installed structure will protect the house from the cold even in severe frosts.

What is needed for laying?

The assembly of brick ovens according to the Buslaev scheme differs from others in its extreme accuracy. To make a quality brick heater, you will need the following materials:

red brick - 550 pcs.;
clay - 235 kg;
sand - 115 kg;
grate (252x300 mm) - 1 pc.;
steel: corner (5x45x45x360 mm) and roofing (0.35 m2);
nails - 1 kg;
wire - 3 kg;
view with a hole (d = 220 mm) - 1 pc.;
view chamber door (140x215 mm) - 1 pc.;
steam valve (140x180 mm) - 1 pc.

The design also includes large-sized elements - an oven, a cast-iron stove and doors. You will need 3 types of doors:

furnace (280x300 mm);
for the cooking chamber (520x390 mm);
blower (140x140 mm).

Oven dimensions - 600x400x350 mm, stove - 965x560 mm (2 burners).

Features of the Swedish oven

Brick stoves, assembled according to the “Swede” type of Buslaev, heat up quickly and can retain heat even in a large room.

Brick ovens, designed according to this scheme, are heated exclusively in winter. A five-channel oven with one outlet will have dimensions of 1160x900x2100 mm.

Brick construction works equally well on different types of solid fuels.

If you heat the stove at least 2 times a day, the heat transfer will be 4500 kcal / h.

Swedish styling technology

A brick stove for a house should be installed strictly on a waterproofing foundation. Buslaev's oven weighs more than 750 kg, so it is impossible to assemble it directly on a concrete floor: over time, the surface is deformed, which can lead to malfunctions of the oven and even a fire. Therefore, the concrete foundation must be covered with a waterproofing material.

Brick kiln projects provide for the penetration of groundwater into the lower layers of the foundation, which is why the brick will begin to dampen and collapse over time. Therefore, it is better to protect the structure with roofing felt or roofing felt. Already immediately after the waterproofing work, marking and ordering begins.

First row

The first row is made with solid masonry, and the outer row is laid out only with solid bricks. It is very important to control their integrity and strength - this moment can play a decisive role in the operation of furnaces. You can also use halves inside - the main thing is that there are no thick gaps left, and tightness is preserved.

Second row

Similar brickwork, but this time it requires the installation of a blower door, which will be located under the firebox. The firebox is the space in the furnace where combustion takes place.

Third and fourth row

The third row is laid in half a brick with the obligatory preservation of openings for installing a blower and a cleaning department (120x120 mm). The fourth is going on the same principle.

But from this moment it is necessary to start forming a blower chamber with a size of 200x300 mm. Usually it is located in the left and rear of the oven.

Fifth row

At this level, you need to mount the grate. It is installed in special openings that are made in bricks. A temperature gap of 10 mm should be left along the perimeter of the grate and lowered to the grate within 20-30 degrees of inclination. Then the furnace door is mounted.

6th to 9th row

Here begins laying out the oven. Bricks are stacked on an edge over the entire area of the stove. Steel sheets are fixed around the oven to protect against burning through. From the seventh to the ninth row, an increase in the width of the channel is formed, which is laid at the back wall on the right. A clay mixture is laid on top of the oven. The oven and furnace door are fixed in the structure.

Tenth row

The hob is mounted and the channel expands with a gradual rounding of the corners. With the help of a level, it is necessary to check that the cast-iron plate lies horizontally, without deviations.

The space between the stove and the wall of the stove is laid.

Eleventh row

Two brick walls are formed in a quarter, and their laying is carried out. This is where the cleaning and installation of the cooking chamber door takes place. With the help of a strong sheet of steel, beams for partitions of the flue are created. Channels 160x200 mm are formed from them.

Twelfth row

Support beams for a brick vault are erected from strip and angle steel, after which forced ventilation is created in the form of a 150x100 mm channel. Brick stoves are also formed here.

The brick is ground into a conical shape to narrow the ventilation duct, and the small stove must be covered with a steel sheet.

Thirteenth row

Outside the chimney (in front), cleaning is laid, and hinged partitions are installed. The masonry itself is carried out in half a brick, a valve and a cornice are mounted. At the same time, it is necessary to maintain indents of 30 mm on each side. Above the channels, the masonry is also ground into a cone.

Fourteenth row

The indents increase by another 30 mm, after which you can continue to form the cornice. Above the large stove, it is necessary to install metal corners and a strip that will block the small stove.

The Russian stove also heats large houses well. The peculiarity of its design lies in the installation of a stove bench: there is no such element in ordinary brick ovens. Modern versions of stoves for the home are decorated with embossed tiles, and a small fireplace is made inside.

What is needed for laying?

To build a furnace, you need to prepare:

refractory bricks (smooth) - 1700 pcs.;
cement mortar - approximately 80 buckets;
clean fine sand and clay mortar;
a view with a half-door and a valve with a hole 26x24 cm.

Before installing brick ovens, it is important to check the correctness of the drawings, ordering, and the quality of the tools. The condition of the entire structure and the house will depend on this.

Construction technology

The Russian brick oven is laid out exclusively on a solid foundation. In this case, there are three options: brick, monolithic reinforced and rubble concrete. The foundation must be covered with roofing felt to protect it from the influence of groundwater and other moisture.

Management

As already mentioned, the heating furnace is built from refractory bricks. For perfect brick joints, you can cut each block three-quarters and set them in the corners of the masonry - this will ensure the correct dressing. On the second and third rows, walls are erected. The fourth level is laid only with solid bricks, and at the base the corners must be grinded off to make arched supports.

For a large house, you can make a wide arch. The entire brick structure is assembled on a wooden form. To do this, with the help of 20 bricks beveled at an angle, a vault of the furnace is built. The thickness of the side walls should be 1 brick, the front and back - 2 bricks. Next, the laying of the vault begins, the stove is assembled, the level of fireclay. At the corners of the bars into 1/2 and 3/4 parts. Between the walls it is necessary to fill up the sand and cover it with solid masonry.

On the next row, a hearth is collected and under the stove. It is advisable to fill the cavities between fireclay with fine sand. On the left side of the hearth, a recess for coals is made. After that, the cooking chamber and the hearth are mounted. Between the hearth and the crucible, a perforated steel arc is installed, into which copper wire is inserted. Subsequently, it is sunk into the solution.

Next, brick walls are built up, with the obligatory formation of a compartment for cleaning ash. A half-door is installed opposite the view. The chimney is constructed in identical rows of six bricks. After construction, the brick oven should dry out, and only then the finishing takes place.

Brick stoves are a source of a healthy atmosphere and fresh air (due to draft and constant air renewal in the room), there is no need for additional installation of radiators, such structures accumulate heat well and heat the air in several rooms at the same time.

Firewood as fuel is cheap, especially if your house is located in a suburban area. And preparing them yourself is very healthy.

During construction, it is necessary to strictly follow all the instructions, follow the masonry technology, monitor the horizontal rows and the verticality of the walls. This will avoid distortion of the structure and possible breakdowns.

The optimal location of the furnace is in the center of the house.

Heating;
For cooking (the forerunners of modern stoves);
Cooking and heating (a combination of the two previous models);
Special (the design is intended for special needs - drying clothes, etc.).

Heating stove with oven - step by step

Construction is desirable to carry out in the summer, at a constant air temperature.

For construction you will need: brick - 220 pieces, three doors for the firebox (13x13 centimeters), a cleaning door (14x14 cm), a cast-iron stove (38x35 cm), an oven (32x28x42 cm), a valve (27x13 cm), an asbestos cement sheet, a grate - a grate (20x30 cm), steel strip 4 mm thick (35x25 cm).

Laying instructions:

Before laying, be sure to build a foundation. We choose the type of foundation after examining the type of soil and the level of groundwater. We are waiting for the complete hardening of the foundation and proceed to construction.

We print out the drawing, prepare a tape measure and a building level. Before construction, it is recommended, as a training, to lay out the oven without mortar in order to avoid mistakes in the future. The rows will be numbered along the masonry for convenience. Be sure to use plumb lines and check the quality of the brick (no chips or cracks). Soak bricks in water.

The first two rows are laid out according to the drawing, solid. To do this, you need 10 bricks for each row.
In the third row, we lay the ash pan and install the blower door (we fasten it to the wire and special metal fasteners).
4: we build this row, referring to the order, building up the walls.
5: we are building a brick ceiling above the blower door, we are laying the grate (do not forget to leave a small gap from the metal grate of the grate to the brickwork, we fill the gap with sand).
Next, we take an asbestos cord and wrap it around the frame of the furnace door. We are building the sixth row, clamping the fastening of the door with bricks.
The seventh and eighth rows - we build up the walls, observing the order, again referring to the drawing.
In the ninth row, we lay bricks on top of the firebox door, creating an overlap above it. In this row, we begin to build a smoke box and finish it by the eleventh row.
To separate the cooking zone and the smoke exhaust channel, we lay a strip of steel, which will additionally support the bricks laid on the edge. We fix the cast-iron hob (row number 12).
From the thirteenth to the fifteenth row, lay out the bricks "on edge". Cover the cooking chamber with a layer of asbestos cement.
Sixteenth row - we build the bottom of the first channel, which will be located horizontally.
In the seventeenth and eighteenth rows we put a cleaning door, we build up the walls of the furnace.
Nineteenth row - we block the door from above with bricks. We form a jumper in the center of the smoke circulation.
The twentieth row according to the drawing (we build the walls of the furnace, bandaging the previous row).
The next two rows (21-22) are the construction of a cleaning hole and the completion of the smoke circulation masonry.
After that, we install the oven, and up to the 27th row we make masonry according to the drawing. In the 27th and 28th rows, we leave a space between the bricks to clean the furnace.
Then we make a complete overlap of the furnace and install the valves (29-31).
From the thirty-second row we build a chimney and bring the chimney to the street.

How to kindle a brick oven with wood?

We inspect the furnace and pipes for cracks. If they are, cover with a solution of clay. We clean the furnace from combustion products. We prepare firewood. Warm up the chimney. We put firewood in the firebox, leaving the blower door ajar for air access. For uniform burning of firewood we turn with a poker in the process of their burning. Additional firewood is best done after the formation of the first coals.

We make a wood-burning stove for the house: Instructions for building a brick oven

Such a stove is optimal for heating two rooms or a house with an area of 30-40 sq.m.

The furnace has three flue channels arranged vertically. Their length is more than four meters. It has two firing modes - summer and winter.

For work we get:

full-bodied ceramic bricks M175 - 400 pieces;
refractory bricks - 20 pieces (SHB8);
two-burner cast-iron stove 70x40 cm;
valves 28x18 cm - 2 pieces;
furnace door 27x30 cm;
blower doors 2 pieces 15x16 cm;
masonry tools (trowels, mortar containers, etc.).

We build the foundation for the furnace and proceed to laying out the first row. It is the most important, as it sets the dimensions of the furnace. The thickness of vertical seams is not more than 8 mm.

Second row: we bandage the initial row and lay the foundation for the fire cut.

Third row: we form a chamber for collecting ash and install a blower door.

Fourth row: we continue the construction of the ash collection chamber. And in the future, the combustion chamber will be lined with fireclay bricks. In the same row, we produce fasteners for the cleaning door and the formation of the lower horizontal channel.

Fifth row: we block the blower door with one solid brick, since its length is only 14 cm. We continue the construction of a horizontal channel and a fire separation between the stove and the walls of the house.

Sixth row: we make the overlap of the cleaning door and the horizontal lower channel. At the same time, we see the formation of two vertical smoke channels 12x12 cm.

We denote the left channel with the number 1 (it will be directly connected to the chimney), the right one - with the number 3 (a long channel for the passage of gases and heating the furnace in winter). The dimensions of the outlet channel are 25x12 cm.

Seventh row: we continue to form channels and install the furnace door.

Eighth row: we bandage row number seven and form the second vertical channel of the furnace.

We put the valve of the summer course. If you open it, the smoke will directly enter the chimney without overheating the room excessively. If the valve is closed, flue gases will enter channel number 3 and pass along a long path, heating the entire structure of the furnace and, accordingly, the room.

The ninth row is similar to the eighth. We are preparing a support for installing the locking of the furnace door.

Tenth row: we close the furnace door and connect channel 1 and channel 2. Here, flue gases will pass from the second channel to the first when burning in winter mode.

From fireclay bricks we cut out slots for the grate of the grate and put it inside the furnace. We isolate the back wall with mineral wool.