Care at home for hippeastrum after flowering. Hippeastrum storage in winter Can hippeastrum be grown outdoors

Among indoor flowers, hippeastrum is especially attractive, which is at the same time a rather complicated plant in terms of planting and care. For this reason, not all flower growers manage to achieve its flowering. Below we will tell you all about growing it and overcoming possible problems.

Hippeastrum - description of the flower

Hippeastrum flowers belong to a perennial plant that emerges from a bulb. When it blooms and grows, large linear leaves are formed, which can stretch up to 70 cm, and have a width of 4-5 cm. They are arranged in two rows, opposite each other.

Did you know? Although most hippeastrums have a familiar green color, some varieties have purple leaves, which makes the plant especially attractive even without flowering.

With proper care, an inflorescence appears on the hippeastrum with 2-6 flowers. The flowers are large, can reach 15 cm in length, and their width is often 25 cm.

Their color can be very different: from white to dark red. After flowering, a fruit is formed in the form of a box, in which the hippeastrum seeds ripen.

When fully ripe, they can be used for planting and obtaining bulbs, since they have 100% germination.

However, in home cultivation, this plant is quite difficult, as it differs in a number of features:

1. From light and white varieties of hippeastrum, it is almost impossible to obtain seeds suitable for future crops, since they are hybrid.
2. For the full growth of the plant in the summer, it is good to plant it in the garden, digging it into the soil along with the pot.
3. Despite the fact that it is quite difficult to achieve hippeastrum flowering at home, you should be prepared for the fact that all efforts will be made for just 10 days of flowering.

Choosing a hippeastrum pot

The size of the pot will directly depend on the size of the hippeastrum bulb. Please note: when planting, the bulb should be placed in the middle of the pot, leaving 5 cm to each edge. Thus, the pot for this flower should be at least 15 cm in diameter.

As for the height of the pot, on the contrary, it should not be too large, because the bulb does not need to be completely immersed in the soil ( its upper part remains half above the ground). In addition, at the bottom of the pot it will be necessary to lay out drainage from stones, and above it there is still a fairly large layer of soil.

There are no clear restrictions regarding the material of the hippeastrum container, but it is still better to use ordinary plastic pots for this plant.

This is due to the fact that ceramics can heat up intensely in the sun, often causing overheating of the flower bulb. In this case, his death will be inevitable.

Soil selection for hippeastrum

Hippeastrum flowers are quite demanding on the composition of the soil in a pot, so it must be prepared especially carefully.

The most important requirement is the lightness of the soil, which could quickly pass moisture through itself and provide a good supply of air to the bulb.

It is also important that the soil has a lot of organic fertilizers, and its acidity level does not exceed 6 pH.

It is rather difficult to obtain such a soil mixture by self-mixing, so it is better to go to a specialized store and purchase ready-made soil for bulbous indoor flowers. True, it will not be superfluous to add a little sand to the purchased soil.

If you still decide to prepare the soil mixture for the hippeastrums yourself, then use the following components for it (the ratio is indicated in numbers):

• clay-soddy soil (2);
• leafy soil(1);
• humus (1);
• peat (1);
• sand (1).

Which hippeastrum bulbs are better to choose?

Most often, hippeastrum propagates with bulbs, which can be purchased at a regular flower shop. However, when choosing bulbs, you need to be as careful as possible, since spoiled planting material will only bring you trouble.

It is worth going after them in spring or autumn, since this time is ideal for forcing a flower.

The most important guarantee of obtaining a large and healthy flower is this is the use of large bulbs that store a sufficient supply of nutrients. Thanks to this, not just a large plant will grow from the bulb, but it is guaranteed to be flowering.

But in addition to large sizes, the bulb must also have a strong neck and bottom. It’s great if her upper scales are dry and brown. If there are seals, red or dark spots, rot on the bulb, it has already deteriorated and is not worth buying.

But often the bulbs are sold not just in bags without soil, but also in pots. In such cases, when buying a flower, it is necessary to inspect the roots of the bulb, which should be visible through the hole in the bottom of the pot.

A healthy bulb will be evidenced by:

• white roots;
• firm and strong to the touch body of the bulb;
• dry, brown scales;
• absence of wet and discolored areas.

Important! If the store offers significant discounts on hippeastrum bulbs, be sure to ask the sellers what they are connected with. Very often this is done to sell rotten planting material, although prices may also be reduced due to the end of the planting season.

Where to place the hippeastrum?

Hippeastrums love moderate temperatures, which during their growing season should not exceed +23 ˚С, but should not fall below +17 ˚С.

However, if we are talking about the dormant period of the plant, then it is better to remove the bulb from the room and take it to the basement, where the temperature is at +10 ˚С.

Since hippeastrums love a lot of sun, they only have a place near the window, into which light falls almost throughout the day. But only the sun's rays should not shine directly on the flower, it is better to curtain the window with tulle made of thick fabric so that the leaves and flowers of the hippeastrum do not get burned.

In this case, the flower pot should be constantly rotated, otherwise it may stretch in one direction.

Good lighting is necessary for hippeastrum even after flowering, because without it the bulb and seeds in the box will not be able to fully ripen for the next plantings.

Air humidity is also important for the flower, and if it is low, it will need spraying (just make sure that water drops do not fall on the flowers).

Planting and propagation of hippeastrum

Hippeastrum suggests the possibility of planting in a variety of ways, among which both seeds and parts of the plant can be used at home. You can try each of them.

seed way

Planting hippeastrum in a pot by the seed method involves the full maturation of the box formed after flowering.

It is very important that during this period the plant receives enough nutrients, moisture and sunlight, otherwise the seeds may not ripen.

When the box with them is completely dry, it simply breaks off, after which the seeds can be immediately used for sowing.

Please note that during seed propagation of hippeastrums, for the first year of sowing, the bulb in the ground is just beginning to form, which means that only next year it will be able to give an arrow with leaves. It may take another 1-2 years before full bloom is obtained.

Nevertheless, despite the need for a long wait for flowering, it is thanks to the seed method that it is possible to obtain varietal hippeastrums with a vivid manifestation of all characteristics.

Vegetative methods

Vegetative propagation methods for hippeastrums involve either the use of daughter bulbs that form near the main one (they can be separated only after the diameter reaches at least 2 cm), or by dividing the bulbs into two parts.

Both of these options are used only when transplanting a flower, when the bulb is dug out of the soil.

When planting hippeastrums with the help of daughter bulbs, flowering also occurs not in the first year. They need 2-3 years to mature and gain strength for flowering.

Landing technology

When planting bulbs in pre-prepared soil, it is important to consider the following nuances:

Important! If during planting or transplanting the bulb there are scales on it that can be easily removed with your fingers, it is better to remove them immediately, since they are already dead and will rot when in contact with moisture.

Growing hippeastrum in a pot

When growing hippeastrums at home, flowers need to be given a lot of attention and care. Although in general it is about providing a good place to grow, watering and fertilizing, this plant has its own requirements for all these aspects.

Watering hippeastrum

Hippeastrum in watering is quite whimsical, since it cannot be either overfilled with water or allowed to endure a lack of moisture. Also, during each growing season of a flower, it requires special water balance:

Please note that water should not fall on the bulb - it must be poured only into the soil.

Fertilizer and top dressing

Fertilizer for hippeastrum must be chosen taking into account the stage of flower development. In addition, it is important to alternate mineral and organic top dressing.

As a first, it is better to buy special fertilizers designed for bulbous houseplants. Hippeastrum feeding is carried out according to the following scheme:

Hippeastrums respond best to fertilizing with potash fertilizers. In general, soil fertilization should be carried out every two weeks, but nutrients should not be applied to dry land.

In addition, if you just transplanted or planted a hippeastrum, the first top dressing must be done no earlier than 1 month later.

How to make hippeastrum bloom?

It often happens that the bulb gives arrows with leaves for several years in a row, but the peduncle does not appear on it. The first reason may be too small a bulb, which simply does not have enough strength to bloom,

Hippeastrum is a houseplant that has gained wide popularity due to its large flowers. Plant care includes not only proper watering, but also following the recommendations for maintenance after flowering. Not all flower growers know what to do with an indoor flower after it has faded. And this is the most important period in the development of the plant. With proper care, hippeastrum will delight with beautiful flowers several times a year.

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  Specificity of growth and vegetation

  In most cases, the hippeastrum produces a peduncle in the absence of leaves. It can bloom on a bare bulb. It is only after the plant has flowered that the leaves begin to develop. Their length can sometimes reach up to 50 cm.

  The larger and more massive the foliage, the more nutrients the bulb will receive later. During flowering, she spends them on flowers and noticeably loses her mass. Dying leaves will again give useful substances to the bulb.

  The main care during this period is feeding. If you dig up a bulb after the last flower has withered, you can see that it has greatly decreased in size. The size of the bulb itself depends on how many flower stalks it will give. Large ones are able to give two arrows, while losing a significant amount of nutrients.

  After the flowers wither, do not cut the peduncle. He must return the trace elements back to the bulb. Once the majority of the flowering arrow has dried, it can be carefully unscrewed. Following the kidney, green leaves begin to grow actively. At this time, the plant should also be watered abundantly and fed. Sunlight and heat should be sufficient for the further development of the bulb.

  

  Feeding and watering rules

  A houseplant is watered through a pallet. If the hippeastrum is located in a garden plot, then for watering you need to make a small indentation. Dry top dressing can be scattered on the ground in a thin layer or diluted with water.

  After flowering, top dressing is carried out twice a month. A young or severely weakened plant can be fed every week. The most important trace elements that a flower needs are potassium and phosphorus. They allow the plant to restore strength in a short time. In most cases, flower growers use complex fertilizers for flowering plants.

  

  Preparing for rest

  The dormant period is the time when the plant does not bloom and does not produce new shoots and leaves. At this time, the indoor flower is resting and gaining strength for the next flowering. Hippeastrum has no connection to the season. It all depends on when the forcing was made. Most varieties of this plant must be sent to rest after it has faded. Sometimes there are varieties that do not need this and always have leaves.

  Often, amateur flower growers alternate between dormancy and flowering, thereby achieving more frequent flowering from the hippeastrum. As a rule, it is early spring and late autumn. After the hippeastrum has faded, nothing can be done with it. You need to wait until all the leaves dry on their own. So the bulb will be able to get all the nutrients spent on flowering.

  When the green mass begins to turn yellow and dry, watering should be stopped. As soon as the last leaf has dried up, it can be conditionally considered that the plant has passed into the dormant phase. If the plant grew on the street, it needs to be dug up and transplanted into a pot.

  Sometimes you can leave the bulb in the ground for the winter. It is important to consider that the latter option is suitable for a warm climate zone. In conditions of moderate latitude, this should not be done. If the temperature of the earth in winter does not drop below 5 degrees, then the rest phase can also be arranged in open ground.

  Even in this case, care must be taken that the bulb does not freeze. To do this, you need to make a peat cover that will protect the plant in winter.

  

  Care for lilies after flowering - is it possible to cut the shoots?

  Resting phase

  During the dormant period, it is necessary to provide the plant with the necessary temperature regime. If the bulb is dug up, then it should be planted in a pot. Then put it in a dark cool place. The optimum temperature for the resting phase is 15 degrees. It is important that it does not fall below 10 and does not rise above 18 degrees. In the first case, the bulb can undergo various diseases. In the second case, wake up and begin the phase of laying the bud of the peduncle or the growth of the leaves. This is also detrimental to the flower, since the bulb did not have time to rest and gain strength.

  If the hippeastrum grew on the street, then the dormant period begins when it is transplanted into a pot. You can not do this, but simply put the onion on its side. In this case, it is sprinkled with sawdust and the green foliage is left to dry. The temperature should be the same as if the bulb is in a pot. Sometimes some flower growers store bulbs in the refrigerator in the fruit compartment. Then you should wrap them in paper and make sure that there is no moisture, as rotting may begin. It should be noted that the latter method allows you to get an early forcing, but it can also destroy the planting material.

  Resting phase duration

  At home, you can vary the rest period from 1 to 3 months. It is difficult to give exact dates. They depend on the following:

  • flower lifespan;
  • the number of arrows of the peduncle;
  • specific care after flowering.

Hippeastrum is the most common perennial bulbous plant from the Amaryllis family in room culture.

Hippeastrum includes about 80 species distributed in the tropical part of South America. Most representatives of this genus grow on the slopes of mountains, are found in high-altitude meadows and plateaus. In many countries with mild winters, they are grown outdoors.

The hippeastrum bulb is large, spherical, fleshy. Within each adult bulb, several inflorescences develop simultaneously. They are laid every four leaves, so by the number of leaves on a plant, you can determine how many flower stalks it will have next year.

The better care for the hippeastrum during its growth period, the more leaves it gives over the summer - the more inflorescences it forms. The leaves are leathery, belt-like (up to 80 centimeters long); they appear either during flowering, or immediately after it.

The plant blooms with beautiful funnel-shaped flowers (they crown strong hollow inside) leafless peduncles. The flowers are large with a diameter of up to 20 centimeters, with wide rounded or pointed petals at the ends. In most varieties of hippeastrum, the flowers do not smell. On one peduncle, hippeastrum develops from 2 to 6 flowers collected in an umbrella. Flowering usually occurs at the end of winter after a dormant period.

Flowers are simple and double: red, pink, white, cherry, plain and two-color. Each flower stays on the plant for about a week; the general flowering often lasts about a month.

Hippeastrum is distinguished by great intraspecific diversity, such extraordinary and beauty of its representatives, which none of the other 70-80 genera of the Amaryllis family can boast of. Different types of hippeastrum are quite easy to interbreed with each other. These features have allowed breeders to create many great (and so different) varieties of hippeastrum in recent years.

One of the modern achievements of selection is hippeastrums with yellow, orange and green flowers, as well as hippeastrums, the flowers of which have an amazing, unusual shape. They look like flowers of lilies, orchids, resemble butterflies or birds of paradise.

Mini hippeasturms are exceptionally good: only about 20 centimeters high, with small flowers. Hippeastrum is good not only as a potted plant, but also as a cut flower. With proper care, the hippeastrum bulb can bloom for 10-15 or even 20 years.

Lighting

The plant is photophilous, it is kept on a window of a southwestern or southeastern orientation.

A sunny place for the hippeastrum is especially important at the time the flower arrow appears. It is necessary to avoid overheating the pot, as the bulb and roots of the plant are sensitive to overheating. The plant in the dormant period is not demanding on lighting.

Temperature

During growth and flowering, it tolerates room temperatures well (up to 25 ° C). In summer, it can be taken out into the open air, it should be protected from precipitation, in order to avoid waterlogging the soil. During the dormant period they are kept at a temperature of 10-13 ° C, but can also be kept at normal room temperature.

Watering and humidity

After the end of the dormant period, the hippeastrum is watered sparingly. Until the flower arrow reaches 10-25 cm, watering the plant should be negligible. As the flower arrow grows, watering should be increased.

After flowering, the plant grows leaves, the bulb increases and new flower stalks are laid, so it is necessary to water regularly. Watering is reduced by the end of summer, and at the end of September it is almost stopped. When wintering in a warm room, it is occasionally watered a little, and in a cool one, you can not water it for a month and a half.

Watering plants should always be carried out carefully so that water does not fall on the bulb. It will be optimal to water from a pallet with warm water, adding it until the whole earthen lump gets wet. When watering from above, avoid getting water on the bulb.

Air humidity in the life of the plant does not play a significant role. From dust, it is better to periodically wash the leaves under a warm shower or wipe with a soft sponge.

Fertilizer

Top dressing is carried out from the moment the flowers appear until mid-summer - once a week. Fertilizer for flowering plants is used for top dressing.

The first dressing of the hippeastrum is carried out at a flower arrow height of about 15 cm.

Transfer

Hippeastrum does not have to be repotted every year. It is enough to replace the top layer of the earth, trying not to damage the roots and not to fill the bulb above the previous level. You can transplant the plant every 3-4 years or when you need to separate the children. Transplanted in August before the dormant period or in December before leaving the dormant state.

The bulb, which was taken out of the old pot, is freed from rotten roots and dry scales, from children that form in the axils of the outer scales of the mother plant. The bulb prepared in this way is planted one at a time in a pot so that at least 1/3 of the height of the bulb is on the surface. Can be left on the surface up to half the height of the bulb. There must be a layer of drainage in the pot, and it is advisable to pour a layer of sand under the bottom of the bulb.

The roots of hippeastrum are long, they do not die off during the dormant period, so it is better to use narrow and high pots (children grow in wide dishes and the plant does not bloom for a long time). The width of the pot is chosen so that the distance between the walls of the pot and the planted bulb is no more than 3 cm.

The soil

The earth mixture is made up of soddy soil, well-decomposed humus, peat and coarse-grained river sand (2: 1: 1: 1). You can use purchased soil for bulbous.

Transplantation in open ground

If you have a garden, you can transplant the bulbs outdoors for the summer. In this case, there is a certain risk of damage to the bulbs by pests, but the effect can be surprising. The flowers will be much larger than on the window. With the onset of autumn cold weather, it is necessary to dig up the bulbs, cut off the withered leaves and plant them in new pots. At the end of winter, all the bulbs can bloom, then new babies will appear.

rest period

Hippeastrum needs rest for successful flowering indoors. It usually lasts from October to the end of December. For the onset of a dormant period, it is necessary: ​​from the end of August, gradually limit watering and top dressing, at the end of September, almost completely stop watering.

In most hybrids, the leaves completely dry out, they must be carefully removed. There are varieties in which the leaves are preserved for the winter, but new ones do not grow; it is necessary to ensure that the roots do not completely dry out, therefore, when wintering in a warm room, they are watered occasionally a little, and in a cool one, you can not water for more than a month.

If desired, you can create an artificial dormant period to achieve flowering 2-3 times a year. It must be remembered that for hippeastrum winter is dry and cool (10-15 degrees), summer is warm, normal watering and top dressing.

Some flower growers take the bulbs out of the pot, store them in sawdust, in the refrigerator, in a dry cellar. With this method, the rest period is shorter, but it is not always possible to save the bulbs.

reproduction

The easiest way to propagate hippeastrums is with "bulb babies", which fully convey the characteristics of the mother plant. Well-formed bulbs are separated from the adult bulb during transplantation. They should be at least 2 cm, with roots. "Children" are planted to a depth of 2 cm. Plants from the "children" bloom already in the third or fourth year.

Many varieties of hippeastrum do not form children. To propagate them, it is recommended to cut the bulb with a sharp knife into 2 or 4 parts so that each part has a piece of bottom and roots. Sections are sprinkled with crushed charcoal and dried for 2-3 days. Planted high (only the lower part in the ground) in a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1).

Or they make two deep vertical cuts intersecting in the center almost to the bottom, so that the bulb is divided into four lobes, but does not fall apart. Plugs or sticks are inserted into the incisions for better drying. The bulb is planted in such a way that there is only a bottom with roots in the ground. Watered from a pallet. After some time, children form at the base of each lobe.

Hippeastrum can also be propagated by seeds, pollinating the flowers. After pollination, a three-nested seed box is formed. Seeds ripen within 1.5-2 months, greatly weakening the mother plant. They quickly lose their germination capacity, so it is better to sow them immediately after harvest. Close up the seeds to a depth of 1 cm. Shoots appear in 15-25 days. Seedlings are photophilous, but it is better to shade tender leaves a little. For the rapid growth of onions, seedlings are fed with a weak solution of mineral fertilizers. Young plants do not need a dormant period.

Precautionary measures. All amaryllis contain poisonous substances. May cause vomiting, diarrhea, kidney damage.

Diseases

One of the most dangerous hippeastrum diseases is red bulb rot.

Pests

Spider mite, scale insect and mealybug. They live not only on the leaves, but also on the bulbs under the scales.

Blooming hippeastrum fascinates with its beauty. Only once a year he pleases us with huge flowers-stars. And what is the disappointment when the long-awaited flower does not appear, or the plant begins to fade altogether. To avoid such troubles and be able to enjoy the contemplation of this wonderful flower, you need to know some care secrets and stick to them. A grateful plant will surely delight the eye with generous flowering.

Description of hippeastrum

Appearance

Hippeastrum (lat. Hippeastrum) is a perennial bulbous plant. The leaves are linear, shiny leaves, 50–70 cm long, 4–5 cm wide, have shallow grooves on the surface. The leaves are arranged in two rows. During the flowering period, the plant produces a powerful, tall (up to 60–80 cm) peduncle.

The name of the flower is translated from ancient Greek as "star rider".

Hippeastrum during flowering - a matter of pride and admiration

The flowers are funnel-shaped. Their color range is quite wide: red, white, orange, pink, purple, sometimes yellow or greenish shades. The main tone can be supplemented with strokes or specks.

The flowers are large - up to 20 cm in diameter, collected in an umbrella inflorescence. Hippeastrum has a very faint smell. Some species do not smell at all. This is a great benefit for people prone to allergic reactions.

Hippeastrum flowering - video

Natural habitat and home maintenance

The birthplace of hippeastrum is the American tropics and subtropics, in particular the Amazon basin. It was brought to Europe in the 16th century and quickly gained admirers around the world. In 1799, Johnson's first hybrid hippeastrum was bred. Today, these flowers are widely grown as houseplants and are also grown for cutting. Hippeastrums are not very difficult to care for. Even beginner flower growers can easily cope with this task.

A variety of varieties of hippeastrum

This plant belongs to the Amaryllis family and has about 90 species and more than 2 thousand varieties.

In indoor floriculture, hippeastrum hybrida is most often cultivated. The classification of varietal hippeastrums is based on two features: the size and shape of the flower. Depending on this, plants are conditionally divided into 9 groups, which are indicated in the table.

The most popular groups and varieties of hippeastrum - table

Group name	Popular varieties
Large-flowered simple	Apple Blossom, Charisma, Showmaster, Minerva, Hermes
Medicinal simple	Lemon Star, Magic Green
Small-flowered simple	Santa Cruz, Giraffe, Baby Star, Bianca, Neon
Terry large-flowered	Blossom Peakok, White Piakok, Sweet Nymphs, Dancing Queen, Aphrodite, Lady Jane
Terry mid-flowered	Alfresco, Unique, Double Record, Elvas, Pasadena,
Terry small-flowered	Zombie
sibistre	La Paz, Emerald, Chico, Rio Negro, Tiramisu, Melfi
orchid	Papilio, Exotic Star, Ruby Star
Tubular	Pink Floyd, Amputo, Santiago, Germa, Rebecca

Magnificent hippeastrums in the photo

Simple large-flowered hippeastrum with a rim Simple large-flowered hippeastrum striped Simple mid-flowered hippeastrum Simple mid-flowered hippeastrum with curly margin Simple small-flowered hippeastrum "Star" splendor Charming bouquet Terry mid-flowered hippeastrum Terry large-flowered hippeastrum sibistre orchid hippeastrum Orchid Hippeastrum

Similarities and differences with amaryllis

Amaryllis is often referred to as a hippeastrum variety, but this is erroneous.

Drainage is a prerequisite for preventing excessive soil moisture and rotting of the bulb and roots.

The bulb is planted in a slightly damp soil mixture, deepening it to a maximum of 2/3 of the height.

Narrow pot and shallow planting contribute to creating optimal conditions for hippeastrum

After planting, the plant needs only heat. It is not necessary to water until hippeastrum sprouts appear.

If any damage is noticed on the bulb, it must first be healed. This procedure includes pruning rotten parts, keeping for 30 minutes in a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Maxim) or ordinary greenery and drying for a day.

It is necessary to plant such a bulb in the ground, where the humus is replaced by a small amount of sphagnum (peat moss).

It is advisable to deepen the reanimated bulb into the soil by no more than 1/4 of its height. With such a landing, it is easier to control its condition and, if necessary, carry out spraying. After the bulb has recovered, it is easy to add the soil mixture to the usual level.

Having planted the plant in moistened soil, it is placed in a warm, slightly shaded place (you can cover it with an empty pot) and watering is excluded until the peduncle is forced to a height of 10 cm.

The optimal frequency of hippeastrum transplantation is once every 3-4 years. A favorable time is the threshold of the rest period or its end. It is advisable to use the transshipment method when transplanting - to move the plant along with an earthen clod. In this case, the root system is minimally damaged, which contributes to the rapid rooting of the bulb and its active development.

Transshipment method - a transplant method with minimal damage to the root system

Basic rules for caring for hippeastrum

Watering and feeding

As discussed above, the intensity of hippeastrum watering is directly related to its life cycle. However, it is important to provide the plant not only with the necessary amount of moisture, but also to properly deliver it to the root system.

For example, it is not recommended to pour water on the bulb - it can rot. It is better to combine top watering with watering in the pan. Thus, moisture will be evenly distributed over the earthen coma, which will prevent root rot. The main rule for watering hippeastrum: it is better to underfill than overfill. You also need to regularly wipe the leaves from dust or wash them with warm water.

During the growth of the peduncle, when it reaches a height of 12–15 cm, it is useful to water the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After 5-6 days after this, you need to feed the plant with phosphorus fertilizer.

Hippeastrum is fertilized regularly, at the beginning of the growing season - once every two weeks with liquid nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (7:3:6) fertilizer (for deciduous plants). After the appearance of the leaves to stimulate the active formation of buds, hippeastrum requires less nitrogen and much more potassium, so the ratio of mineral components changes to 4:6:12 (for flowering plants). The frequency of feeding is maintained.

A month before the onset of the dormant period, hippeastrum needs fertilizer with a small part of nitrogen and phosphorus and a large amount of potassium (4:4:12).

Carefully read the fertilizer application instructions on the packaging and do not exceed the specified concentration of minerals. Otherwise, you can burn the root system of the plant.

Timely balanced top dressing contributes to high-quality flowering and growth of deciduous mass. The bases of the leaves form the scales of the bulb and it increases in size. With insufficient nutrition or the complete absence of top dressing, the bulb will use the nutrients accumulated from the leaves, but they are not enough to ensure flowering.

Some flowering secrets

Sometimes hippeastrum disappoints flower growers by refusing to bloom. Why? There may be several reasons:

1. Most often, the plant does not throw out the peduncle due to the depletion of the bulb. Hippeastrum requires a solid amount of nutrients to bloom. It is not surprising that the soil in the pot quickly becomes depleted. To avoid such problems, it is necessary to fertilize regularly and in sufficient quantities.
2. A plant affected by pests (spider mites, scale insects or scale insects) tries to fight them and does not have the strength to bloom.
3. Hippeastrum does not bloom even when the bulb rots due to waterlogging of the soil.

To admire the blooming hippeastrum from year to year, such situations should not be allowed. It is also useful to know some tricks of experienced flower growers to ensure 100% flowering of this plant:

• processing the bulb before planting with hot (43-45 ºC) water for three hours will make the plant bloom in three weeks;
• if you stop watering from August, move the plant to a dark, dry place and keep it there until the end of January, then resume watering, the flowers will delight you in 1.5 months;
• if you cut off all the leaves in July and do not water the hippeastrum for a month, and introduce liquid complex top dressing with the first watering, the flowers will bloom in August or September.

To avoid burning the roots, fertilizer should be applied only after the soil has been pre-moistened.

Immediately after flowering, it is necessary to cut off the faded peduncle, continuing watering and top dressing. And prepare the plant for a good rest (rest period). The next flowering directly depends on this.

rest period

The natural dormant period of hippeastrum lasts quite a long time: from September to January. If your plant grew outdoors in the summer, by the beginning of autumn it should be brought into the house and gradually reduce watering until the leaves completely stop and the leaves dry out. You can independently cut the yellowed leaves, from which the bulb has already taken nutrients.

The quality of the next flowering depends on the dormant period.

After that, you should put (or put the pot with the plant on its side) in a dark and cool (5-12 ° C) room. Many flower growers keep them at a higher temperature - about 17-18 ° C. The soil must be slightly moistened once every 2-3 weeks to prevent the roots from drying out. Wetting and spraying the bulb is not recommended.

The dormant period should last 1.5–3 months, depending on the planned time for the subsequent flowering of the plant. During this time, the hippeastrum does not "show signs of life." The development of leaves and peduncles occurs only inside the bulb.

After the dormant period, it is time for the hippeastrum to wake up. Leaves and flower stalks appear on the surface of the bulb.

Simultaneous appearance of leaves and peduncle

Problems waking up after hibernation

If the bulb does not wake up, you can, of course, be patient and wait for it to wake up on its own. But, as a rule, full-fledged flowering from a “late” bulb will not work.

In this case, it is worth remembering in what state the plant “retired”. After all, the peduncle is laid in the bosom of every fourth leaf. If last year the green mass was not sufficiently grown, the bulb will be weakened.

And if there were less than four leaves, then in the new season the hippeastrum will certainly refuse to bloom. Dry content can hardly help here. It is necessary to provide a very warm temperature, actively water and feed.

Care mistakes and their correction

It is not very difficult to care for hippeastrum, but it is necessary to follow the rules of watering, fertilizing and lighting at different periods of the plant's life cycle.

Common hippeastrum care mistakes - table

care mistakes	Their manifestation	Ways to fix
Lack of a dormant period (air temperature above 18 ° C, regular watering and / or top dressing)	Lack of bookmarking flower buds and, as a result, flowering.	Follow the described rules for watering and fertilizing, maintain a temperature regime corresponding to each stage of the plant's life cycle.
Low air temperature (below 17°C) during flowering
Poor lighting during active growth
Violation of the rules of watering and fertilizing (its absence)
Over watering	Abrupt cessation of growth, rotting of the bulb, development of pests in the soil.	Dig up, release from the ground, if necessary, remove the damaged parts of the plant, transplant into clean soil.
Keeping at low temperature or in damp	Darkening or blackening of colors.	Cut off damaged flowers, move the plant to a warm and dry place and adhere to optimal growing conditions.
Insufficient potash fertilization or keeping during the growing season in a room that is too dry	Browning of leaf tips.	Feed with mineral fertilizer containing macro- and microelements and carry out top dressing in accordance with the phase of plant development, humidify the air.
Too bright lighting	Fading of flowers.	Provide diffused lighting, avoiding direct sunlight.

Diseases and pests of hippeastrum

Hippeastrum is not too susceptible to disease. It is most often affected by red burn (red burn fungus or stagonosporosis), red rot and downy mildew. Some pests can also bother this plant: spider mites, scale insects, aphids, worms. You can determine what a plant is sick with by its appearance.

The main diseases and pests of hippeastrum and how to deal with them - table

Diseases and pests	Causes	External signsplant damage	Effects	Prevention and treatment measures
Red burn (red burn fungus or stagonosporosis)	Fungal infectious disease. Mature spores are carried by the wind, infecting healthy plants.	Red oblong spots on all parts of the plant.	Severe damage leads to curvature and wilting of leaves and peduncles, disease of daughter bulbs	With a slight lesion, it is enough to spray the affected areas with fungicides. The effect of this procedure lasts up to a month. The most effective are products containing copper: copper sulphate, Hom, AbigaPik, Celeste Topa suspension concentrate. You can also use drugs such as Maxim and Rovral, Skor, Vitaros, Previkur, Ordan, Fundazol, Topaz. Bulbs with significant damage must be dug up, all diseased areas removed, including roots and peduncle (in a flowering plant). Only immediate treatment gives a positive result. Do not leave a diseased plant for a dormant period. Several effective ways to process bulbs: Sprinkle all wounds from the removal of affected areas with a mixture of chalk and copper sulfate in a ratio of 20: 1 and dry the bulb for a week. Then plant in an updated sterile soil treated with fungicides. Soak the bulbs in a solution of the listed drugs, spray the leaves. Some flower growers consider it more effective to lubricate problem areas from which diseased tissues are cut out with Maxim. After processing, the bulbs should be dried for at least two days. Plant them in clean soil and ensure that the soil is loosened daily until new roots form. After any treatment, you can not water the plants for two hours. If necessary, repeat the treatment after 2 weeks.
	Viral disease.	Silver spots on leaves.	The softness of the leaves, weak, short peduncles or their absence.	Treat the leaves with a fungicide.
	Excessive waterlogging	Sluggishly hanging leaves, rot on the scales of the bulb and roots (on the upper scales it may look like red spots, as with a red burn).	Withering of the leaves, lack of peduncles, with severe damage - rotting of the root system and death of the plant.	Remove damaged areas, diseased roots, dry the bulb for 7 days, pickle with foundationazole before planting. Plant in new sterilized soil.
	Infection from other plants or through open windows, buying an infected bulb.	White cotton-like coating secreted by mobile insects 0.5–1.2 mm in size.	Significantly slow down the development of plants, sucking the juice out of them.	Remove the surface layer of soil and severely affected leaves. Clean the plant from visible pests with cotton swabs or sticks moistened with alcohol or cologne. Treat with special insecticides: Actara, Actellik, Metaphos, Fitoverm, Arriva, Permethrin or Fufanon. Wipe the window sill with alcohol, soapy water or insecticides. Since pest eggs have an incubation period of 7 days, and insecticides do not work on them, it is imperative to carry out 2-3 repeated treatments with an interval of 1 week. Inspect the plant periodically.
Shchitovka		A small and dangerous pest of houseplants with a hard, shell-like surface that secretes honeydew (sticky liquid).	Creates a favorable environment for the development of various fungal diseases. Plants stop growing, drop leaves and flowers.
Aphid		Dense clusters of sedentary green, gray or orange insects 1–5 mm in size on young shoots.	Sucks the juice from the plant. Buds, flowers and leaves lose color saturation and fall off.
		Cobwebs on the underside of the leaves, woven with an almost imperceptible tick, 0.1–0.3 mm in size.	The leaves and peduncle are covered with "marble" spots, become brittle, twisted, turn yellow and fall off.

The most common diseases and pests of hippeastrum in the photo

Red scorched bulb leaves affected by stagonosporosis Partial defeat of the bulb with red rot The root system is almost completely destroyed by red rot Leaves and peduncle affected by downy mildew Abundant distribution of mealybug on leaves

reproduction

Hippeastrums reproduce in two ways: seed and vegetative.

seed method

The seed method is quite complicated and lengthy. Seeds are formed only 1.5–2 months after flowering. But they do not form on their own. It is necessary to artificially pollinate pistils and stamens. The grown ovary looks like a large tricuspid box.

Hippeastrum seed ripening

Inside the box, rows of flattened seeds of irregular rounded shape are located. They are characterized by a black color with a brown tint and the presence of thin black wings.

Seeds ready for sowing

In the spring they are planted in sandy-leafy soil. It is important to consider that freshly harvested seeds have one hundred percent germination. From the dried seeds, as a rule, only 30% of the total germinate. Seedlings will please you in 15-5 days.

Germinated hippeastrum seeds

When the leaves grow to 6–10 cm, they are transplanted into pots, 6–7 cm in diameter. At this time, the bulb grows.

The grown seedlings of hippeastrum

The period before the first flowering of young plants of different varieties ranges from two to five years. This method is more acceptable for breeders. Most amateur gardeners consider it costly and ineffective. At the same time, there is no guarantee that the maternal characteristics of the plant will be preserved.

Vegetative method

It is much easier to propagate hippeastrum vegetatively. Several variants are being practiced.

Reproduction by daughter bulbs

This is natural, and therefore the most optimal and simple way. Bulbs of the age of three, with proper care, usually give 3 children.

Bulb separation

They are separated with a sterile sharp instrument, after treating the cuts with crushed coal. Planted in accordance with the rules for planting an adult bulb.

For two years, the newly planted plant is not deprived of foliage and is not sent to rest. The growth of the bulb and the formation of a peduncle in it depends on the intensity of leaf growth. With good care, children will throw out flower stalks in 2-3 years.

dividing the bulb

split bulb

The division is carried out during the maximum accumulation of nutrients in the bulb - in November.

Division process algorithm:

1. Remove the top layer of soil, leaving only the bottom of the bulb in the soil.
2. Remove outer dry scales.
3. Cut the leaves along with the top of the bulb.
4. Cut the bulb into four equal parts to the surface of the soil.
5. Insert needles with a diameter of 5–6 cm into the cuts to prevent the parts of the bulb from closing.
6. Adhere to all the rules for caring for an adult plant.
7. With the appearance of leaves, carry out top dressing and continue to fertilize according to the standard scheme.
8. Divide the bulb the next spring and plant the pieces in separate flowerpots.

You can divide the bulb in another way: cut it, leaving a piece of bottom and scales in each part. It is useful to sprinkle slices with wood or activated charcoal. The resulting slices are planted in a light peat mixture.

surface planting in a light substrate

After 40–50 days, babies appear, which must be planted in pots in the spring.

Attention! When seating, one should not forget about the presence of toxic substances in the hippeastrum bulbs and adhere to safety rules.

Bloom. The flowering stage begins from the moment the flower arrow appears until the buds wither. The flowering period averages three weeks. The flower arrow grows for two weeks, the buds open for 1-2 days (all of them can bloom at once, they can in turn) and the flowers keep blooming for about a week. The duration of the flowering period depends on temperature conditions (the higher the temperature, the faster the peduncle grows, the buds bloom faster, the buds fade faster), on the number of peduncles (when the bulb blooms with several peduncles, the flowering period can be up to 1.5 months), on varietal features (terry varieties fade 1-2 days earlier than non-terry varieties).
Flowering is usually once a year (autumn or winter, or early spring), and with good care again in the summer. The timing largely depends on care (when the bulb was sent to rest) and also on varietal characteristics (there are varieties that bloom at a certain time).

Vegetation period or growth period. During this period, the hippeastrum recovers after flowering, grows leaves and the volume of the bulb, lays flower stalks for future flowering. This period is very important, the future flowering depends on it. It lasts on average about 8-9 months, and sometimes longer. The timing depends on the restoration of the bulb. Bulbs that have lost a lot of weight and bulbs after an illness (rot, red burn) recover longer.

Rest period. It starts from the moment when the bulb is harvested in a dark, cool place, and lasts an average of 3 months. The duration depends on the previous season and storage conditions. Healthy, well-fed bulbs are sent to rest.

It is advisable to transplant once a year, hippeastrums are voracious and the supply of nutrients in the soil is consumed quickly. You can transplant either before being sent to rest, or after a period of rest, i.e. before flowering. In some cases, for example, purchased hippeastrum has faded, it can be transplanted after flowering. It is undesirable to transplant during the flowering period.

Hippeastrums are planted so that a third of the bulb rises above the ground.

In a healthy bulb, only those scales that can be easily removed can be removed. Brown scales that are close to the bulb and cannot be removed do not need to be removed.

The soil should be light in composition, with good water and air permeability, rich in organic matter. Slightly acid pH - 5.6-6. You can use store-bought soil or mix your own. The choice of purchased soils is large, there are special soils for bulbous ones.

In the purchased soil for greater friability, it is better to add sand or vermiculite. If you want to make the soil yourself, then the composition is as follows: clay-soddy soil, leaf, humus, peat and sand (2: 1: 1: 1: 1)

You can for the summer. In the garden, they grow very well and stock up on strength for future flowering. Just do not forget about pests (there are more of them in the garden than in room conditions), rodents and that the weather is changeable. During frosts, heavy rains, the bulbs need to be covered. Dig up the bulbs before the first autumn frosts.

The composition of top dressing depends on the stage of development. The most important element is potassium. Fertilize about once every two weeks.

During the flowering period - emphasis on phosphorus-potassium and a small nitrogen content.

At the beginning of the growing season, the emphasis is on nitrogen-potassium, in the middle nitrogen-phosphorus in equal proportions, potassium is slightly more.

A month before the dormant period, feeding is stopped.

A few rules: it is impossible to fertilize on dry soil, after transplanting, the first top dressing is not earlier than in 1.5 -2 months, carefully read the instructions and dilute according to the instructions, avoid overdosing.

Hippeastrums are good for both organic and mineral. Ideally, it is better to alternate them. There are also special fertilizers for bulbous plants.

Flowering period. Until the arrow has grown to 10-15 cm, watering as it dries (i.e. the top layer should dry well between waterings). As soon as the peduncle begins to open, watering should be increased, but no swamp. Hippeastrums do not like the bay.

Vegetation period. Watering as the top layer dries.

Rest period. Watering 1 time in 1.5 months is not very plentiful. Watering should be careful, in no case should water fall on the bulb, otherwise the upper scales may rot.

Seeds, babies, dividing the bulb.

As a rule, it is used in breeding for breeding new varieties and hybrids. With seed propagation of a variety, 100% compliance with the parental form of seedlings is not guaranteed. Self-pollination does not give a 100% guarantee that the same variety will be obtained. There are species that cannot self-pollinate. This method of reproduction is the most laborious and long. The bulb grown from seeds blooms with good care for the 5-6th year.

The process of pollination is simple: the stigma of the pistil of a flower of one variety of hippeastrum is pollinated with pollen of other varieties, pollinated several times from the moment of divergence of the stigma lobes of the pistil to complete divergence.

Only healthy bulbs are selected for pollination.

It takes about 1.5-2 months for seeds to ripen. Seeds can be harvested when the seed pod begins to open. Not all seeds are suitable for planting, there are “dummy” (i.e., there is no embryo inside), so the seeds are sorted out before planting. The largest, plump seeds are selected (the embryo is felt to the touch). The sorted seeds can be sown in the ground, lightly sprinkled with earth, or put in some water (with activated charcoal) and wait for germination, as soon as the little white root hatches, planted in the ground (white root down). The distance between seeds when planting is 1.5-2 cm.

Light, heat and proper watering are important for seed germination and seedling growth. The soil should be slightly moist, temperature 20-23 degrees. If these conditions are not met, the seeds may not sprout or rot. Germination of fresh seeds is almost 100%.

Seedlings should be planted as they grow. Don't forget to fertilize.

Spring seedlings are stronger than autumn ones, so seed propagation is best done in spring. In addition, autumn seedlings need to be illuminated in winter.

Reproduction of hippeastrum by children

This method allows you to save all varietal characteristics, but the multiplication factor is low. Children are formed irregularly. The formation of children largely depends on the variety, for example, La Paz, Giraffe sibisters easily give children, but terry varieties are reluctant.

Children are separated from the mother's bulb during transplantation. When separated, the baby should be at least 2 cm, with good roots. With good care, babies bloom in the 4th year.

Reproduction of hippeastrum by dividing the bulb

This method is rarely used among flower growers. First, because you need to cut a healthy onion. Secondly, there is a risk of losing the bulb and not getting babies (there is a high probability of infection in the wound). But the multiplication factor is high and the resulting babies retain their varietal characteristics.

Adult, healthy bulbs are selected for reproduction. Dried bulbs that have been in storage for a long time, as well as bulbs during the flowering period and immediately after flowering, are not suitable for division.

Selected bulbs are washed in clean running water and cleaned of old outer scales. The roots and bottom, if it is too high, are cut off with a sterile knife (the bottom cannot be completely cut off). Remove 1/3-1/4 from the top of the bulb. After that, the onion is cut in a vertical direction into 8-16 parts (segments). The width of the segment is 1-2 cm. The number of segments depends on the size of the bulb, the larger the bulb, the more segments. Then each segment is cut into 3-5 divisions, consisting of two scales fastened at the base with a piece of bottom. Depending on the size of the uterine bulb, you can get 50-60 or more divisions from one bulb. Before planting, delenki are pickled in a fungicide (in Maxim, in Vitaros or in Fundazole).

Delenki are planted in perlite, sawdust, river sand or in substrates prepared from these components with the addition of peat. The thickness of the substrate layer should be at least 10-12 cm. Substrates that are heavy in mechanical composition are not suitable for planting delenok. Before planting, the substrate is steamed or spilled over the entire thickness of its layer with fungicides to destroy the harmful microflora present in it.

The distance between divisions during landing is small - 1200 - 1500 divisions per 1 m squared. Planted in boxes or on racks with bottom heating. Landing is carried out to a depth of not more than 1/3 of the height of the division. Deep planting leads to rotting of the delenok, a decrease in the productivity of reproduction, and delays the growth and development of the resulting daughter bulbs.

Landing can also be carried out in segments, without dividing them into divisions. But the productivity of reproduction, despite the large number of daughter bulbs formed by one segment, is lower, since the number of planting units obtained from one bulb is much less than when dividing the bulb into divisions. Planting in segments should be used only if it is necessary to divide small bulbs with a small amount of scales.

The formation of daughter bulbs occurs a month after planting the delenok at the place where the scales are attached to the bottom. Each division forms 1-2, and individual divisions up to 6, child onions. Three months after planting the delenok, the newly formed daughter bulbs have an independent root system and 2-3 leaves. At this age, the plants are transplanted. The success of reproduction by the method of paired scales depends on the temperature regime and humidity of the substrate.

The temperature of the substrate during the formation of daughter bulbs is maintained within 22-24°C, air - 1-2°C lower. Lower temperature as well as its sharp changes during the formation of daughter bulbs lead to a sharp decrease in reproduction productivity.

The substrate must be constantly wet. Waterlogging and drying of the substrate reduces the productivity of reproduction. Humidity is maintained within 75-80%. Increased humidity and stagnation of air, lowering and sudden changes in temperature contribute to the massive development of stagonosporosis.

Top dressing is carried out after the appearance of an independent root system and leaf apparatus in plants. Especially in need of top dressing are plants that are grown on substrates that do not contain nutrients (perlite, sawdust, river sand). Top dressing is carried out with liquid organic or mineral fertilizers twice a month.

Care during the formation of daughter bulbs and in the initial period of plant life consists in carrying out systematic watering, fertilizing, loosening the soil and protecting plants from diseases and pests.

Bulb selection in the shop

Question: How to choose the right bulb in the store? What should you pay attention to?

During the forcing season (autumn or spring), hippeastrums can be bought either in bulk (without soil in a plastic bag on which the variety and supplier are written) or in a pot.

When buying, carefully inspect the bulb. The neck, the bottom and the bulb itself must be strong, dense. The top scales should be dry brown. There should be no seals, darkening, redness, rot.

When buying a bulb in a pot, pay attention to the roots (they can be seen through the drainage hole (the roots should be white)), the bulb to the touch (should be strong), the upper scales should be dry brown (soft, wet - rot), on the leaves (if any) and the bulb should not be red.

When buying a bulb at a reduced price, try to find out the reason for the discount. Prices are reduced for faded bulbs at the end of the planting season. Sometimes at reduced prices they sell flooded bulbs with rot. And it is also worth noting that regrading is very common in stores.

Hippeastrum flowering questions

Question: How long does the hippeastrum bloom?

On average, the flowering period takes 3 weeks (from the moment the peduncle appears to the buds wither). The flowering time is extended when the bulb blooms with several peduncles (after all, the peduncles do not always bloom at the same time, it happens one after the other).

The temperature also affects the timing of flowering. At a temperature of deg. 25 The peduncle grows quickly, the bud opens quickly, and the bud quickly fades. Optimum temperature deg. 18-20. There is a little trick: as soon as the bud opens, the hippeastrum can be moved to a cooler place (deg. 16), then the flowering will last longer.

Question: Hippeastrum grows leaves, does not want to bloom. How to achieve flowering?

First of all, you need to think about the conditions in which hippeastrum is contained.

1. Maybe the bulb is too small. Usually bulbs less than 6 cm are babies, or bulbs that have spent a lot of energy on flowering and are too weak after flowering. Such bulbs bloom early, you need to increase the volume, i.e. top dressing (nitrogen-potassium) and light are needed, there is no need to arrange a dormant period.

2. For flowering, it is very important that the bulb restores its strength during the growth period and lays a flower arrow (usually an arrow is laid after every 4th leaf).

3. The bulb lacks nutrients. Consider how long it has been since you transplanted your bulb. It is advisable to replant even an adult bulb every year, because during the growth period, the hippeastrum eats up all the nutrients in the soil. In addition to transplanting, the bulb needs proper feeding to restore strength. During flowering - phosphorus-potassium and a small content of nitrogen, after flowering nitrogen-potassium and a small content of phosphorus.

4. Lack of light. Consider how much light you have. Hippeastrums are photophilous and can be safely placed on a sunny south window.

With such illumination during the growth period (spring-summer), they will get stronger and lay a flower arrow, or maybe more than one. A bulb that has received insufficient light, for example, has stood all spring and summer on a northern windowsill, or, in a place where the sun's rays rarely fall, may not flourish.

5. In what container is the hippeastrum planted. The pot should not be very spacious. The distance from the bulb to the wall of the pot is not more than 3 cm.

6. Do not forget about the rest period. After a rapid period of growth, the bulb needs to rest for two to three months in a dark, cool place.

Question: Bulb 3 cm, why does it not bloom?

It's a baby, she's too small to bloom.

Question: A third peduncle appeared, I'm worried about the bulb. Is she strong enough?

A well-fed bulb calmly blooms with three peduncles. If you are worried about the onion, then as soon as the bud opens, the peduncle can be cut off and put in water.

Question: On the third arrow, the flowers were not as large as on the first two. Why?

Didn't have enough strength. Such a peduncle, as soon as the buds open, it is better to cut and put in water.

Question: How many flowers can be on one peduncle?

From 2 to 6. The amount depends on the age of the bulb and on varietal characteristics.

Question: Why does the hippeastrum have a peduncle more than 80 cm?

Or not enough light. The more light, the shorter the peduncle.

Question: A peduncle has appeared, the bulb has 60 cm leaves. Do I need to cut the leaves?

You don't need to cut the leaves. This is stress, you will need strength to heal the wound (cut) and new leaves. Why waste her energy? All her strength is now spent on flowering.

Question: Is it possible to get flowering by a certain date? I want it to bloom on New Year's Eve.

Yes, you can. The calculation is as follows: on average, the rest period lasts 2.5 months (10 weeks), about 3 weeks pass from the moment the flower arrow appears to the opening of the buds. Total, it turns out 13 weeks (slightly more than 3 months). So, in order to get flowering for the New Year, you need to send the bulb to rest in early October.

Question: Is it possible to achieve flowering on the northern windows?

Hippeastrums are photophilous and feel more comfortable on the southern, western, eastern windows. You can make it bloom on the north window, northwest, northeast window. But the hippeastrum grows the onion and recovers badly after flowering, it spends a lot of energy on flowering (the bulb noticeably loses weight), leaves are long and not so many, peduncles are very long and elongated.

Question: The peduncle rotates around its axis. Is it normal?

All right, he reaches for the light.

Question: The buds withered. When should the peduncle be removed?

In order not to weaken the flower stalk bulb after the buds have wilted, you need to cut it off.

Question: Is it true that it is very difficult to get the next flowering from the Dutch?

It is a myth. Flowering does not depend on the "Dutch", but on the conditions of detention.

Hippeastrum growing season

Question: After flowering bulb with voids. Is this normal?

She spent her energy on flowering, which is why voids formed. There is nothing to worry about, the bulb needs to recover. Over time, the gaps will close. Try to water carefully so that water does not get into the "voids".

Question: The bulb after abundant flowering (there were 3 peduncles) lost a lot of weight. How can I help her recover? And will it be restored to its original size?

Under room conditions, the bulb can recover to its original size, it all depends on the care. To recover, she needs: a sufficient amount of light, proper feeding, watering. Bulbs that bloomed with three peduncles are the slowest to recover. Such bulbs spent a lot of energy on flowering and can safely skip the next flowering.

Question: Hippeastrum last year bloomed with three arrows. It refuses to bloom this year. Care according to the rules (light, top dressing, rest). The bulb is strong, it has grown 10 leaves during the growing season, and retired by itself. Why didn't it bloom?

It is possible that the hippeastrum missed flowering. I spent a lot of energy on the previous flowering. And during the growing season I only managed to build up the bulb. Keep up the good work, it will bloom next year.

Question: Hippeastrum bloomed, arrow withered, but no leaves? Now he has what: vegetation or immediately peace?

Vegetation. There are varieties that bloom in a leafless state. Leaves appear within a month.
If a blooming bulb is recently purchased, then it is possible that it does not have roots. She spent all her strength on flowering, now she is growing roots, then leaves will appear.

Question: The hippeastrum has blossomed. The first leaf appeared and almost immediately turned yellow, a little later two more leaves appeared, and they turned yellow and withered. The bulb is strong, dense, there is no rot. Transplanted, there were no roots during transplantation. Watering is neat. It is on the east window. What with her?

Most likely, the problem is the lack of roots. Healthy leaves will appear as soon as the bulb has roots. You can stimulate the formation of roots with "root" or "heterauxin".

Question: The purchased hippeastrum has faded, planted in peat when purchased. I want to transplant. Can I transplant after flowering?

It is possible and even necessary. When transplanting, be sure to inspect the roots, they are often flooded in the store, and rot forms on the roots and bulb. Old peat must be removed from the roots, and pickled in Maxim (or other fungicide) before planting.

Question: The hippeastrum has too long leaves, what kind of support to come up with?

In the store you can find various supports, similar to those shown in the photo. If they are connected together, or used separately, you get a convenient support for the leaves. Supports can be plastic or bamboo. To tie the leaves to the support, you can use a woolen thread.

Question: How to cut the peduncle after flowering?

Cut so that about 10 cm from the peduncle remains from the neck of the bulb. After the rest of the peduncle dries, it is easily twisted out. By the rest of the peduncle, you can see whether the bulb is healthy or not. In a healthy bulb, the peduncle is dry; in a diseased bulb, the peduncle is slimy, soft, with redness.

Question: Leaves came out of the ground, what is it?

These are baby papers.

Question: The leaves have a red tint. What is a red burn?

If the reddening is uniform, on all leaves and begins at the base of the leaves, then this is a varietal feature and indicates that the onion blooms in red or with a predominance of red and dark red. Varieties with purple foliage: Red Lion, Benfica, Lima, Papilio Butterfly, Rapido, La Paz.
If there are sudden red streaks on the leaves or red spots, then the cause is rot or "red burn".

Hippeastrum rest period

Question: Hippeastrum's leaves began to turn yellow and wither. Maybe he's going to rest?

Look at the bulb. Has grown up? did you grow leaves during the growing season? If yes, then the bulb is going to rest. It is necessary to put in a dark cool place and reduce watering. The bulb will take all the nutrients from the leaves.

Question: I bought a hippeastrum in early November, it has faded. For 4 months of growth has grown 7 leaves. Should he be sent to rest (now March)?

It’s too early to rest, the bulb did not have time to recover. Send in early autumn.

Question: How to send the bulb to rest?

Remove the bulb in a dark, cool place. Leaves do not need to be cut, the bulb will take nutrients from them. After a while, the leaves will turn yellow and wither, and they can be easily removed.

Question: Why send to rest?

My hippeastrum blooms once a year without a dormant period.

And if you do not want to expel - you can not arrange a period of rest. In this case, it is difficult to predict flowering.

Question: How to determine if the hippeastrum bulb has woken up?

The bulb woke up as soon as the peduncle or leaves appeared.

Question: When to "wake up" the bulb? Or wait until she wakes up?

At rest for more than 2 months. If she stands in a cool place, then it is enough to bring her to a warmer, brighter place and the forcing effect will work. If nothing is done, she will wake up herself when she deems it necessary.

Question: Hippeastrum retired three months ago. Now there is no flower arrow, no leaves, the bulb has lost weight. What to do?

The bulb gave all its strength to the previous flowering and did not recover. Take out the bulb, transplant it into fresh soil, let it grow and restore strength. Such a bulb is unlikely to flourish.

Question: Hippeastrum was sent to rest (to a dark, cool place). No sooner had the leaves dried than new ones appeared. What to do with him?

Option one, the bulb has rested and is ready to bloom. You can hold it a little (a week or two) in a dark place (wait for the peduncle) or immediately put it on the windowsill.
Option two, early sent to rest. The bulb did not have time to recover and continues to grow. Take it out, let the bulb recover.

Question: Do I need to send the hippeastrum baby to rest?

No. Children do not need to arrange a rest period.

The difference between hippeastrum and amaryllis

Both plants belong to the same Amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae).
At first, both hippeastrum and amaryllis belonged to the genus Amaryllis. Subsequently, taxonomy, due to significant differences in the structure of plants, turned out to be two different genera. The botanical name amaryllis went to the species amaryllis belladonna, the rest got the name hippeastrum.

Number of species	Approximately 50-70 species, although some sources mention up to 85 species	one species of Amaryllis Belladonna
Origin	subtropics and tropics of America	South Africa
Number of chromosomes	X=11. In most cases, it is incompatible with other genera of the Amaryllis family.	X=11. Crosses freely with other genera of the Amaryllis family, including Krinum, Nerine, Brunswigia.
Evergreen or deciduous	Depends on the species, most species are deciduous with a pronounced dormant period, but there are species without a pronounced dormant period (evergreen), for example, Hippeastrum Papilio.	With a pronounced dormant period, the leaves are shed during the dormant period. A dormant period is necessary for flower bud development.
flowering period	Usually blooms once a year. The flowering period depends on the forcing: early forcing - autumn flowering, late - flowering in winter and spring. Some hippeastrums bloom twice a year, re-blooming usually in summer.	End of summer, autumn. Flowering once a year.
Peduncle (main difference)	Hollow, cylindrical, up to 90 cm high, the color of the peduncle is usually green, but may be green with purple, with gray or brown hues	Not hollow, up to 96 cm high, with a purple tint.
The number of flowers on the peduncle	Usually 2 to 6, but some species have up to 15 flowers with little or no scent. The number of flowers depends on the species and variety, for example, in the species wild-growing Hippeastrum fosteri, up to 15 flowers develop on one peduncle, in the small-flowered Rapido up to 9, in the small-flowered Jaguar up to 8, in the terry medium-flowered Alfresco up to 8.	6 to 12 fragrant flowers.
Flowers color	Red, pink, orange, yellow, green, cream, white; one-color or two-color; striped, veined, mottled.	Shades of pink from rich pink-red to almost white.
Flower shape	Diverse: terry, long-tube, orchid-like, similar in shape to Leopoldii and Reginae, etc.	funnel-shaped
flower size	Depending on the variety and species: from 5 cm to 22 cm	from 9 to 13 cm
perianth petals	6 similar or different in shape and size (depending on the type)	6 similar in shape and size
Bracts (protective casing of the inflorescence)	2	2
Perianth tube	Depending on the species, it can be very long up to 15 cm or very short 2-4 cm.	short
Leaves	Depending on the species, the leaves are green, glossy or matte, silky or hard, long, belt-like. Appear before or simultaneously with the flower arrow. Leaves up to 90 cm long, 3.5-5 cm wide.	The leaves are narrow bright green, glossy. The shape is grooved. Leaf length up to 60 cm, width up to 3.5 cm. Appear after flowering (i.e. bloom in a leafless state).
Bulb, form	symmetrical. Depending on the species, the shape may be different, round, round-conical or slightly elongated.	pear-shaped
Bulb, diameter (mature, capable of flowering)	7 cm - more than 10 cm. The size depends on the variety: in most wild species, tubular and small-flowered varieties, the bulbs are small, in large-flowered and terry varieties, the bulbs are large in an adult plant capable of flowering. The size of the bulb depends on the variety (in small-flowered bulbs, the size of an adult bulb is smaller than in large-flowered ones)	over 12 cm.
Scales	white, similar in structure to onion scales, the scale breaks easily (without effort)	grayish in color, have pubescence on the inside (pubescence looks like cotton or gossamer), it is difficult to break the scale
seeds	There are about 30-45 flat, winged, black, disc-shaped seeds in a seed pod. The embryo is covered with a black protective tissue.	The seed pod contains about 20 thick, bulbous, light garnet seeds.
Seed germination (germination)	Usually about 2 weeks, sometimes a little more.	About 56 days.
Peculiarities of children's education	Usually babies appear closer to the shrinking scales.	An interesting feature in adult bulbs, babies appear between the scales in the middle of the bulb, and several growth points are obtained.
Growing Features	In room conditions it grows well and blooms. Usually the growing season falls on spring-summer, the dormant period - in autumn, the beginning of winter, the flowering period - the end of autumn, winter, spring.	In room conditions, it grows and blooms difficult, because its biological cycle is disturbed. The plant is originally from Africa and blooms when it is spring in Africa, during the rainy season. After flowering, it vegetates, and during the period of drought and high temperatures, it rests. In our conditions, the African spring falls on autumn, so it blooms here (in Russia) in the fall. During the growth period (in our conditions, winter-spring), he does not have enough light. The plant is very photophilous. Best grown in direct sun. The temperature should not be below 10 degrees, so in the fall they need to be dug up and removed more in a warm, lit place.

The article used the experience of members of the forum: Veta, Severina, Elena the Beautiful, Olga Gr, Faust, ITALIA, Lucien, Apsara, Vesna, Simona, Romashka. Thanks for the experience and advice.

It is believed that these flowers planted in the garden do not bloom. Is it really?

My collection of hippeastrums is still small, but the plants are one of my favorites. I plant them outdoors every summer. At the end of May, I prepared the beds, filling the soil with compost soil and peat (1 bucket per 1 sq. M). Under each bulb, when planting, I put 1 tbsp. fertilizer "Baby" (for peppers and tomatoes) and wood ash. The wells were shed with a solution of potassium permanganate.

In order for the plants to suffer less from the rains, she made a shelter by placing high arcs, on which she threw a dense acrylic material. In rainy weather, I covered it with a film on top.

Two weeks after landing feed hippeastrums with various flower fertilizers - alternated Kemira, Agrolix, Ideal, Agricola, Kaleidoscope (for bulbs) and even Sudarushka (for tomatoes). Additionally, I sprayed the leaves with Ideal - this gives them a shiny and healthy look. In addition, I used an infusion of weeds, manure and ash. I fed every week with one of the preparations or organic matter.

On hot days, she took off the shelter, and the bulbs "roasted" their sides in the open sun - it is believed that this is a good prevention of a red burn. And yet a few bulbs got sick. I have tried many ways to deal with red burn. And the gruel of chalk and copper sulphate turned out to be the most effective (it can be replaced with foundationol). It should be thick so that after coating with this composition, a shell forms on the bulbs. And when it falls off along with the upper scales, healthy green scales will appear before the eyes.

Your hippeastrums I land in the most inconspicuous corner of the garden, but always well lit by the sun. I do this only so that they grow up, improve their health and gain strength, because it is believed that plants do not bloom in the open field. That's what I thought until recently. But in early July, one of the planted hippeastrums gave a peduncle, and a few days later four more plants were about to bloom. Moreover, one of them had a “debut”, which turned out to be quite successful - two flower stalks at once.

In room conditions, the flowers on my hippeastrums lasted no more than a week, but in the garden they bloomed three times longer! Isn't it a miracle!

Blooming hippeastrum fascinates with its beauty. Only once a year he pleases us with huge flowers-stars. And what is the disappointment when the long-awaited flower does not appear, or the plant begins to fade altogether. To avoid such troubles and be able to enjoy the contemplation of this wonderful flower, you need to know some care secrets and stick to them. A grateful plant will surely delight the eye with generous flowering.

Description of hippeastrum

Appearance

Hippeastrum (lat. Hippeastrum) is a perennial bulbous plant. The leaves are linear, shiny leaves, 50–70 cm long, 4–5 cm wide, have shallow grooves on the surface. The leaves are arranged in two rows. During the flowering period, the plant produces a powerful, tall (up to 60–80 cm) peduncle.

The name of the flower is translated from ancient Greek as "star rider".

Hippeastrum during flowering - a matter of pride and admiration

The flowers are funnel-shaped. Their color range is quite wide: red, white, orange, pink, purple, sometimes yellow or greenish shades. The main tone can be supplemented with strokes or specks.

The flowers are large - up to 20 cm in diameter, collected in an umbrella inflorescence. Hippeastrum has a very faint smell. Some species do not smell at all. This is a great benefit for people prone to allergic reactions.

Hippeastrum flowering - video

Natural habitat and home maintenance

The birthplace of hippeastrum is the American tropics and subtropics, in particular the Amazon basin. It was brought to Europe in the 16th century and quickly gained admirers around the world. In 1799, Johnson's first hybrid hippeastrum was bred. Today, these flowers are widely grown as houseplants and are also grown for cutting. Hippeastrums are not very difficult to care for. Even beginner flower growers can easily cope with this task.

A variety of varieties of hippeastrum

This plant belongs to the Amaryllis family and has about 90 species and more than 2 thousand varieties.

In indoor floriculture, hippeastrum hybrida is most often cultivated. The classification of varietal hippeastrums is based on two features: the size and shape of the flower. Depending on this, plants are conditionally divided into 9 groups, which are indicated in the table.

The most popular groups and varieties of hippeastrum - table

Magnificent hippeastrums in the photo

Similarities and differences with amaryllis

Amaryllis is often referred to as a hippeastrum variety, but this is erroneous.

Hippeastrum is often confused with amaryllis or the names of these flowers are considered synonymous. Even hippeastrum can be sold under the name "amaryllis" or vice versa. They are indeed relatives belonging to the same botanical family - amaryllidaceae (amaryllidaceae), but representing different genera.

Outwardly, these plants are very similar and require almost the same care. Biologically, they are arranged differently. The main differences are presented in the table.

Biological differences between hippeastrum and amaryllis - table

Optimal conditions for growing a flower

The practice of cultivating this plant shows that the beauty of hippeastrum depends on the optimality of temperature, humidity and light. Intensive flowering provides a full dormant period in a dark, dry and cool place for at least 8-10 weeks. "Tired" hippeastrum most often gives small flowers on a short peduncle or does not bloom at all.

At the moment the bulb awakens, the conditions should be gradually (but not radically) changed: move the plant to a warm, but not too brightly lit room and increase watering to moderate. Thus, the formation and development of peduncles is stimulated. In cold climates, this process is greatly slowed down.

The plant entering from darkness immediately into bright light in combination with excess moisture stimulates the rapid growth of green mass, but significantly inhibits the development of the peduncle.
In order for the hippeastrum to develop fully, it is necessary to observe the growing conditions given in the table.

Conditions for growing hippeastrum in different periods of development - table

Landing and transplant

The time of planting hippeastrum bulbs can be chosen depending on the desired flowering period. This can be done regardless of the season. The plant will please you with flowers at about 5-9 weeks from the moment the shoots appear. Hippeastrum bulbs, sold through the distribution network, are ready to bloom. They have passed the period of rest, and do not need darkness.

For planting, a deep (up to 15 cm) and narrow (exceeding the diameter of the bulb by no more than 5-6 cm) pot is required, preferably ceramic, necessarily stable on a horizontal surface. A narrow pot is necessary to prevent excessive moisture and root rot. As an optimal substrate, drainage should be used, which fills the lower part of the pot, and a soil mixture consisting of equal parts of sand, soddy soil, humus or peat.

Drainage is a prerequisite for preventing excessive soil moisture and rotting of the bulb and roots.

The bulb is planted in a slightly damp soil mixture, deepening it to a maximum of 2/3 of the height.

Narrow pot and shallow planting contribute to creating optimal conditions for hippeastrum

After planting, the plant needs only heat. It is not necessary to water until hippeastrum sprouts appear.

If any damage is noticed on the bulb, it must first be healed. This procedure includes pruning rotten parts, keeping for 30 minutes in a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Maxim) or ordinary greenery and drying for a day.

Processed hippeastrum bulb

It is necessary to plant such a bulb in the ground, where the humus is replaced by a small amount of sphagnum (peat moss).

It is advisable to deepen the reanimated bulb into the soil by no more than 1/4 of its height. With such a landing, it is easier to control its condition and, if necessary, carry out spraying. After the bulb has recovered, it is easy to add the soil mixture to the usual level.

Surface planting of a damaged bulb

Having planted the plant in moistened soil, it is placed in a warm, slightly shaded place (you can cover it with an empty pot) and watering is excluded until the peduncle is forced to a height of 10 cm.

The optimal frequency of hippeastrum transplantation is once every 3-4 years. A favorable time is the threshold of the rest period or its end. It is advisable to use the transshipment method when transplanting - to move the plant along with an earthen clod. In this case, the root system is minimally damaged, which contributes to the rapid rooting of the bulb and its active development.

Transshipment method - a transplant method with minimal damage to the root system

Basic rules for caring for hippeastrum

Watering and feeding

As discussed above, the intensity of hippeastrum watering is directly related to its life cycle. However, it is important to provide the plant not only with the necessary amount of moisture, but also to properly deliver it to the root system.

For example, it is not recommended to pour water on the bulb - it can rot. It is better to combine top watering with watering in the pan. Thus, moisture will be evenly distributed over the earthen coma, which will prevent root rot. The main rule for watering hippeastrum: it is better to underfill than overfill. You also need to regularly wipe the leaves from dust or wash them with warm water.

During the growth of the peduncle, when it reaches a height of 12–15 cm, it is useful to water the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After 5-6 days after this, you need to feed the plant with phosphorus fertilizer.

Hippeastrum is fertilized regularly, at the beginning of the growing season - once every two weeks with liquid nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (7:3:6) fertilizer (for deciduous plants). After the appearance of the leaves to stimulate the active formation of buds, hippeastrum requires less nitrogen and much more potassium, so the ratio of mineral components changes to 4:6:12 (for flowering plants). The frequency of feeding is maintained.

A month before the onset of the dormant period, hippeastrum needs fertilizer with a small part of nitrogen and phosphorus and a large amount of potassium (4:4:12).

Carefully read the fertilizer application instructions on the packaging and do not exceed the specified concentration of minerals. Otherwise, you can burn the root system of the plant.

Timely balanced top dressing contributes to high-quality flowering and growth of deciduous mass. The bases of the leaves form the scales of the bulb and it increases in size. With insufficient nutrition or the complete absence of top dressing, the bulb will use the nutrients accumulated from the leaves, but they are not enough to ensure flowering.

Some flowering secrets

Sometimes hippeastrum disappoints flower growers by refusing to bloom. Why? There may be several reasons:

1. Most often, the plant does not throw out the peduncle due to the depletion of the bulb. Hippeastrum requires a solid amount of nutrients to bloom. It is not surprising that the soil in the pot quickly becomes depleted. To avoid such problems, it is necessary to fertilize regularly and in sufficient quantities.
2. A plant affected by pests (spider mites, scale insects or scale insects) tries to fight them and does not have the strength to bloom.
3. Hippeastrum does not bloom even when the bulb rots due to waterlogging of the soil.

To admire the blooming hippeastrum from year to year, such situations should not be allowed. It is also useful to know some tricks of experienced flower growers to ensure 100% flowering of this plant:

• processing the bulb before planting with hot (43-45 ºC) water for three hours will make the plant bloom in three weeks;
• if you stop watering from August, move the plant to a dark, dry place and keep it there until the end of January, then resume watering, the flowers will delight you in 1.5 months;
• if you cut off all the leaves in July and do not water the hippeastrum for a month, and introduce liquid complex top dressing with the first watering, the flowers will bloom in August or September.

To avoid burning the roots, fertilizer should be applied only after the soil has been pre-moistened.

Immediately after flowering, it is necessary to cut off the faded peduncle, continuing watering and top dressing. And prepare the plant for a good rest (rest period). The next flowering directly depends on this.

rest period

The natural dormant period of hippeastrum lasts quite a long time: from September to January. If your plant grew outdoors in the summer, by the beginning of autumn it should be brought into the house and gradually reduce watering until the leaves completely stop and the leaves dry out. You can independently cut the yellowed leaves, from which the bulb has already taken nutrients.

The quality of the next flowering depends on the dormant period.

After that, you should put (or put the pot with the plant on its side) in a dark and cool (5-12 ° C) room. Many flower growers keep them at a higher temperature - about 17-18 ° C. The soil must be slightly moistened once every 2-3 weeks to prevent the roots from drying out. Wetting and spraying the bulb is not recommended.

The dormant period should last 1.5–3 months, depending on the planned time for the subsequent flowering of the plant. During this time, the hippeastrum does not "show signs of life." The development of leaves and peduncles occurs only inside the bulb.

After the dormant period, it is time for the hippeastrum to wake up. Leaves and flower stalks appear on the surface of the bulb.

Simultaneous appearance of leaves and peduncle

Problems waking up after hibernation

If the bulb does not wake up, you can, of course, be patient and wait for it to wake up on its own. But, as a rule, full-fledged flowering from a “late” bulb will not work.

In this case, it is worth remembering in what state the plant “retired”. After all, the peduncle is laid in the bosom of every fourth leaf. If last year the green mass was not sufficiently grown, the bulb will be weakened.

And if there were less than four leaves, then in the new season the hippeastrum will certainly refuse to bloom. Dry content can hardly help here. It is necessary to provide a very warm temperature, actively water and feed.

Care mistakes and their correction

It is not very difficult to care for hippeastrum, but it is necessary to follow the rules of watering, fertilizing and lighting at different periods of the plant's life cycle.

Common hippeastrum care mistakes - table

Diseases and pests of hippeastrum

Hippeastrum is not too susceptible to disease. It is most often affected by red burn (red burn fungus or stagonosporosis), red rot and downy mildew. Some pests can also bother this plant: spider mites, scale insects, aphids, worms. You can determine what a plant is sick with by its appearance.

The main diseases and pests of hippeastrum and how to deal with them - table

The most common diseases and pests of hippeastrum in the photo

reproduction

Hippeastrums reproduce in two ways: seed and vegetative.

seed method

The seed method is quite complicated and lengthy. Seeds are formed only 1.5–2 months after flowering. But they do not form on their own. It is necessary to artificially pollinate pistils and stamens. The grown ovary looks like a large tricuspid box.

Hippeastrum seed ripening

Inside the box, rows of flattened seeds of irregular rounded shape are located. They are characterized by a black color with a brown tint and the presence of thin black wings.

Seeds ready for sowing

In the spring they are planted in sandy-leafy soil. It is important to consider that freshly harvested seeds have one hundred percent germination. From the dried seeds, as a rule, only 30% of the total germinate. Seedlings will please you in 15-5 days.

Germinated hippeastrum seeds

When the leaves grow to 6–10 cm, they are transplanted into pots, 6–7 cm in diameter. At this time, the bulb grows.

The grown seedlings of hippeastrum

The period before the first flowering of young plants of different varieties ranges from two to five years. This method is more acceptable for breeders. Most amateur gardeners consider it costly and ineffective. At the same time, there is no guarantee that the maternal characteristics of the plant will be preserved.

Vegetative method

It is much easier to propagate hippeastrum vegetatively. Several variants are being practiced.

Reproduction by daughter bulbs

This is natural, and therefore the most optimal and simple way. Bulbs of the age of three, with proper care, usually give 3 children.

Bulb separation

They are separated with a sterile sharp instrument, after treating the cuts with crushed coal. Planted in accordance with the rules for planting an adult bulb.

For two years, the newly planted plant is not deprived of foliage and is not sent to rest. The growth of the bulb and the formation of a peduncle in it depends on the intensity of leaf growth. With good care, children will throw out flower stalks in 2-3 years.

dividing the bulb

split bulb

The division is carried out during the maximum accumulation of nutrients in the bulb - in November.

Division process algorithm:

1. Remove the top layer of soil, leaving only the bottom of the bulb in the soil.
2. Remove outer dry scales.
3. Cut the leaves along with the top of the bulb.
4. Cut the bulb into four equal parts to the surface of the soil.
5. Insert needles with a diameter of 5–6 cm into the cuts to prevent the parts of the bulb from closing.
6. Adhere to all the rules for caring for an adult plant.
7. With the appearance of leaves, carry out top dressing and continue to fertilize according to the standard scheme.
8. Divide the bulb the next spring and plant the pieces in separate flowerpots.

You can divide the bulb in another way: cut it, leaving a piece of bottom and scales in each part. It is useful to sprinkle slices with wood or activated charcoal. The resulting slices are planted in a light peat mixture.

surface planting in a light substrate

After 40–50 days, babies appear, which must be planted in pots in the spring.

Attention! When seating, one should not forget about the presence of toxic substances in the hippeastrum bulbs and adhere to safety rules.