Drawer for toilet. Shelf, rack or cabinet above the toilet: the perfect storage solution. Material selection and sketch

August 3, 2016
Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

A toilet with a closet behind the toilet is not just a bathroom, but a kind of pantry: of course, you can’t hide large items here, but shelves are almost perfect for storing household chemicals, small tools and not the most necessary utensils.

The obvious advantage of this solution is the fact that you can make a cabinet yourself, using not the most expensive materials and tools that almost every craftsman has. How to do this, and what a closet can be - I will tell in this article.

Varieties of cabinets

When optimizing free space (this is especially true in small apartments), we often try to adapt unused areas for storing various small things. One such area is the back wall of the bathroom: if a boiler is not placed on it, then it is usually empty.

One of the best options for using this wall would be to install a small cabinet there. In principle, this is quite justified: the toilet is still almost impossible to put close to the bearing surface, which means that due to the tank we have a “dead zone” with a depth of about 30 - 40 cm. This is just enough so that the rack or cabinet does not hindered.

Analyzing the design options for such cabinets, I came to the conclusion that almost all projects can be reduced to two varieties:

Hanging module. This option is preferred if you do not plan to do carpentry work. It is enough just to buy or order a design according to the size of the bathroom, and then hang it on two anchors driven into the wall. The limiting factor here is the strength of the wall: in some houses, the partition between the toilets of neighboring apartments does not differ in thickness, so it will be problematic to hang a heavy chipboard / MDF structure.

Built-in wardrobe. Since the price of a hinged product can be quite high, many craftsmen prefer not to overpay, but to make facades on their own. This approach allows you to significantly save on materials: by and large, we will only need shelves and doors, since the niche itself will perfectly cope with the role of the side and rear walls.

When planning the reconstruction of the bathroom in my apartment, I proceeded from approximately the same considerations. Looking ahead, I will say that the built-in wardrobe turned out to be quite reliable and functional, so below I will share the recipe for its manufacture.

Manufacturing technology

Design diagram: step 1

The manufacture of a built-in toilet cabinet begins with the design. Of course, the product is quite simple, but still its contours must be sketched on paper at least schematically, with approximate dimensions.

In my case, the product looked like this:

The basis was a frame made of wooden beams 30x30 mm. From these parts, the front frame was made, on which the facade parts were attached.
The shelves rested on transverse bars attached to the walls. I made them solid, but in principle, this design can be abandoned either in favor of small wooden blocks or in favor of metal corners.
For long shelves, it is better to make longitudinal guides, as in the image below.

The standard height of the shelves is from 25 to 35 cm, but you can deviate from these values. For example, I made the distance between the last shelf and the ceiling equal to 55 cm, and this turned out to be very convenient for storing bulky items.

The front part of the bottom was attached to the lower beam of the frame, the back - to the support bar fixed on the wall of the toilet. From above, I did not close the structure, because I made the cabinet close to the ceiling.
The depth of the cabinet was 35 cm: I picked it up in such a way that the closed doors would not interfere with the person sitting on the toilet.
Both the facade and the shelves were made of 16 mm thick laminated chipboard.
Standard furniture hinges were used to fasten the facade.

It should be noted that this construction is not the only possible one. You can experiment with options: the main thing is that the frame is reliable enough and firmly fixed on the walls of the bathroom.

Basic materials and tools: step 2

As I noted earlier, for work, I chose the most affordable materials. The cabinet turned out to be quite cheap, so in the table below I will give the approximate cost of the raw materials used:

As for the tools, the set included the following items:

perforator with a drill for concrete;
drill;
Forstner drill for fixing furniture hinges;
screwdriver with magnetic bit;
wood saw;
level;
roulette;
plumb;
a hammer;
screwdrivers (flat and Phillips).

In principle, to speed up the work, you can only add a circular or reciprocating saw to the kit, but you have to cut quite a bit, so I managed with a hacksaw quite quickly.

Making blanks: step 3

In this section, I will show you how to make all the parts needed to assemble a built-in toilet closet. There will not be so many labor-intensive operations here, but they are still present:

We start with the simplest - the manufacture of frame elements. First, we measure the height of our cabinet (the lower edge is about 25 cm from the lid, the upper one is under the ceiling), and we cut out two blanks for the side parts of the front frame from a wooden beam.

Next, we measure the width of the niche in which the cabinet will be located, and cut out three fragments of the bar - the top and bottom of the front frame plus the rear support beam, to which the bottom will be attached.
We select the appropriate depth of the shelves and, in accordance with this size, cut out several pairs of support bars. The bottom pair will be for attaching the bottom.
We carefully sand all the details, after which we impregnate them with either a stain or a moisture-proof composition with antiseptic components - so we will be sure that the high humidity of the bathroom will not provoke wood decay.

The next stage is the manufacture of facades. From the chipboard sheet, it is necessary to cut out two rectangles, the dimensions of which will correspond to the dimensions of the cabinet. Naturally, we make small gaps on the sides that will allow the doors to open without clinging to the walls.

I ordered chipboard cutting right at the time of purchase, so I didn’t have to suffer with cutting. This is really an ideal option: yes, you will have to overpay a little, but the parts will be a) even, b) without lamination chips and c) exactly in size.

We subject the cut facades to edging: we glue an edge tape on the ends of the panel, heating it with an iron. At the same time, the glue melts, and the material reliably closes the panel cut, giving it a more aesthetic appearance and protecting it from moisture penetration into the thickness of the chipboard.

By the same principle, we make shelves, only at the corners we make a sample so that they fit snugly against the front frame. Leave the bottom panel unselected. It may also be necessary to make holes in the shelves through which the riser or other pipes will pass.

Now that we have all the details ready, we proceed to the installation of the cabinet in the room.

Cabinet assembly: step 5

It is better to install the frame for the structure before repair - so we do not have to save tiles or other finishes when drilling. But the facades should be hung at the very end, after facing the bathroom, otherwise there is a risk of staining or damaging them.

The installation instructions assume the following sequence of actions:

First, we attach the frame elements to the walls. To do this, we press each beam against the wall, align it according to the level and make holes in it with a drill with a drill for wood. Through the holes with a pencil or an awl, we mark points for nests in the wall.
At the marked points, we drill nests in concrete with a perforator. The optimal depth is about 60 mm, diameter is 6-8 mm.
We hammer a plastic dowel into each nest. We apply a beam and fix it through a pre-drilled hole with a locking screw.
After completing the assembly of the frame, we lay it on the side guide shelves. They can be left without fasteners, or they can be fixed with two or three self-tapping screws on each side.

From below, we attach a panel to the frame, which we fasten with self-tapping screws around the perimeter.
We make round holes in the facades with a Forstner drill for installing hinges. We install the hinges in the grooves and fix them with self-tapping screws. We fasten the reciprocal parts of the loops on the side posts of the front frame.

We install small handles on the front of the facades.
We hang the facades by inserting the hinges into the counterparts and adjusting them by turning the fixing screws.
To make the cabinet look as attractive as possible, fragments of a wooden beam protruding beyond the edge of the facades can be pasted over with a vinyl film in the color of the lamination of the doors themselves.

Conclusion

Making simple shelves in the toilet behind the toilet with your own hands, and even making a full-fledged closet with doors - the so-called secret room - is quite a feasible task even for a beginner in carpentry. And yet, it is worth taking on it only after studying the above tips and watching the video in this article.

If you still have questions, feel free to ask them in the comments, and I will be happy to provide you with the necessary advice or suggest how best to cope with a particular task.

August 3, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

One of the main problems of a city apartment is the eternal lack of space. Countless detergents, tools, screws, nails, spare faucets to the faucet and other household trifles quickly fill cabinets and shelves. Today we will look at some simple toilet cabinet designs that can partially solve this problem.

Wishes

Ideally, any homemade cabinet above the toilet should meet a few simple requirements.

The depth of the structure should be minimal. Places in the toilet and so little; our goal is to use the niche behind the tank to good use, and not to deprive ourselves of the remnants of comfort.
The design must be moisture resistant. Humidity in the bathroom is always slightly higher than the average for the apartment due to the evaporation of moisture in the toilet bowl and cistern.

In addition: the toilet, bathroom and kitchen are more likely than other rooms to be flooded in case of accidents.
It is desirable that the next incident does not force the owner to make major repairs.

Finally, the closet above the toilet should not block access to the risers located in the niche.. In the same place, valves are often hidden that block the water to the apartment, and coarse filters. In houses where hot water is not distributed centrally or is supplied intermittently, a boiler or instantaneous water heater is often located in the same niche.

Materials and Solutions

What can be done with a minimum investment of time, effort and money to build a cabinet in the toilet behind the toilet with your own hands?

Let's offer some simple solutions.

Drywall

From moisture-resistant drywall, you can make very aesthetic open shelves.

The frame is assembled from a galvanized profile; the order of further work is quite traditional for GKL structures:

Drywall parts cut to size are hemmed to the frame with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. To cut drywall, you can use a jigsaw, or you can simply break off the sheet by cutting it with a sharp knife by a third of its thickness.

The seams and caps of self-tapping screws are puttied with gypsum putty (ABC, Fugenfüller) twice with intermediate drying.
Then the seams are roughly rubbed with a grinding mesh and swept from dust, after which the entire surface of the gypsum board is primed with a penetrating primer.
The next step is reinforcing the seams. In the humble opinion of the author, for this purpose it is better to use not a sickle, but rolled fiberglass: with sufficient strength, it will make the seam less noticeable and allow you to do without the additional cost of putty for leveling. Fiberglass is glued to PVA slightly diluted with water.
After the reinforcement has dried, the seams are puttied again with the thinnest possible layer of gypsum, “on the peel”, sanded with a mesh, swept over and primed.

How can I finish the drywall shelves in the toilet behind the toilet?

Structural element	Finishing method
Upper horizontal surfaces	Tile. It is cut to size with a diamond disc and sits on ordinary tile adhesive; seams are rubbed with any colored grout
Vertical and lower horizontal surfaces	Waterproofing (rubber) water emulsion. It is applied in three coats with a brush or roller. It is better to wipe off stains on tiles immediately: rubber dye is very resistant; the author successfully used it to paint the steps on the street stairs
corners	It is better to glue them with a PVC corner on silicone sealant. Galvanized or plastic corner profiles laid under putty will quickly lose their neat appearance

Plywood

A very strong and durable closet behind the toilet in the toilet can be made of plywood.

The specific design will be prompted to the reader by his creative talent; the author will focus on the technical problems of construction.

It is better to use FC plywood with a thickness of 15 millimeters. More moisture resistant PSF is not suitable for residential premises due to the composition of the adhesive: it contains phenol formaldehyde.

Shelves up to half a meter long do not need stiffeners and can be mounted on galvanized corners screwed to the walls with dowel screws. Longer shelves are best reinforced with vertical ribs cut from the same plywood. Rib width - about 50 mm; it can be launched along the near or far edge of the shelf.
For cutting plywood, it is better to use a circular saw. Jigsaw cuts will always be less straight. Guide the saw along the cut should be slow: this way there will be much less burrs.
Elongated parts are marked on the sheet in such a way that their longer edges on the front side are parallel to the veneer fibers in the surface layer. The reason is again in the edges of the cut: when cutting along the fibers, there will be no untidy scuffs and raised chips.
Thick plywood can be butt-jointed with 45x4 mm self-tapping screws. The part that is fixed flat is pre-drilled with a 4 mm drill bit; the end of the second part is drilled with a diameter of 3 mm to a depth of 30 millimeters. Don't forget to countersink the hole to hide the screw head.
Alkyd-urethane-based parquet varnish can be used as a protective and decorative coating. It is applied in three to five thin layers with intermediate drying. Before applying the first layer and after it has dried, the parts must be sanded: FK plywood initially has a far from ideal surface; varnishing will raise the pile on it, which will make the plywood rough.

Wood

Wood compares favorably with plywood in that it does not sag under long-term exposure to a significant load. In addition, wood (especially noble species) looks much better under a layer of transparent varnish; however, the price of this material is not comparable with the cost of one or two sheets of plywood.

To connect parts from a solid array, not self-tapping screws or nails are used, but dowels planted on glue. For the manufacture of dowels, hardwoods are used (from inexpensive birch is quite suitable); it is better to use natural glues: casein or albumin.

Wooden cabinet. The wall is made of lining, the door is made of a thin lath.

chipboard

A chipboard laminated on both sides attracts only by the simplicity of finishing the finished structure: in essence, the manufacturer only has to paste over the ends of the parts with an edge tape. With moisture resistance, everything is sad with her; there is also no question of any resistance to deformation - for shelves longer than 30 centimeters, stiffeners are required.

The only thing for which chipboard can be used without any problems is the manufacture of cabinet doors. The doors in the toilet behind the toilet will not be subjected to serious mechanical stress, and the vertical orientation will not allow the material to deform under its own weight.

The issue of comfort and coziness in housing depends directly on the aesthetic component of the interior, on its attractiveness and rational use of space. The use of elements such as a sanitary cabinet in the toilet allows you to hide details that should not be visible from the eyes of residents and guests of the house. We offer you to learn how to choose the right cabinet in finished form or make it yourself.

The toilet is a very important part of the home, the further ease of its operation depends on the proper arrangement of it. For better ergonomics, a so-called sanitary cabinet is used here, often protruding in the form of a hatch in the wall. Consider the main purposes of its use:

to hide communications is the main task of this product. It is very convenient and practical to hide all the pipes by installing them in a specially designated piece of furniture. Exposed communications rarely fit into existing designs, so it's easier to hide them. To most apartments, they pass in a special niche, which is easy to make storage;
arranging additional storage space for household chemicals and other cleaning accessories will not be superfluous. Dividing the space into zones for pipes and shelves will help save a lot of space, so necessary in cramped bathrooms or separate toilets;
access to the meters should always be free, so placing them in an accessible place, hidden by furniture doors, will allow you to easily check the water consumption in the house;
pipeline breakdowns that may occur during the existence of the house are easier to fix in easily accessible places than in niches immured with tiles or clapboard. The cabinet simultaneously hides the pipes from the inhabitants of the house and allows the plumber to get to the pipes in case of a leak.

Varieties

A variety of sanitary cabinets allows you to apply them to any room, and the range of their facades will help you choose the doors that are most suitable for the design of the room. Distinguish this piece of furniture according to various criteria.

By type of doors

Plumbing cabinets can vary in the type of doors. They may be the following:

louvered doors - can be of two types: roller blinds and the so-called pseudo blinds. Roller doors are very convenient because they do not take up space in the open position, they are easier to use in hard-to-reach places where conventional doors simply cannot open. Pseudo blinds - an ordinary door made in the form of blinds, but without moving parts, which is very convenient in terms of ventilation of the space with pipes;
a sanitary hatch covering a niche can be of absolutely any size due to the existing assortment from many manufacturers. This is an ordinary frame from a corner, to which a metal door with a lock is attached with hinges. Such a hatch looks simple and uncomplicated, which can not always be combined with the design of the bathroom. A cheap and common product is also not very durable;
hinged doors are an individual product, often created to order. When assembling a cabinet with hinged doors, it is worth considering the space in front of them for their full opening. Given the materials used, this can be expensive.

Swing

Revision hatch

roller shutters

folding

According to the material of manufacture

Also, designs are divided into a number of types, depending on the materials of manufacture:

metal doors are used in the manufacture of hatches when equipping niches. Metal is also used to develop frames and fittings. Do not forget that we are talking about a toilet and a bathroom, where condensate can collect on iron pipes, increasing air humidity. Thus, it is better to use parts made of aluminum or other stainless metals;
wood is often used to create the facade and base of the cabinet. Hinged wooden doors can close a built-in closet from floor to ceiling, or separate communications with a small, neat door;
parts of roller shutters or small hatches are usually made of plastic. It is lightweight and inexpensive material;
in addition to wood, for swing doors, you can use tiles attached to a special frame. Such a solution is very useful for preserving the concept of the design of the room when invisible hatches are used;
mirror surfaces can visually increase the space, and will also fulfill their intended purpose.

Dimensions

The question of choosing the size of the cabinet is very individual, but you should know a few rules that will help you avoid the unpleasant consequences of improper installation of the structure:

a cabinet from ceiling to floor is installed if the communications in the toilet have occupied the vertical of the wall. Such a large cabinet gives access to any part of the pipes at any time, which is very convenient during repair work. Inside a large closet, it is easy to install shelves and store household supplies and chemicals there. Without using a niche, you should be prepared to form a ledge with dimensions of approximately 40x70cm;
a small hatch is designed to provide access to the meter, but it is extremely difficult to carry out repairs through it, so owners who are unsure of the condition of the pipelines should choose a different cabinet size;
an average cabinet size, for example, 50x70cm, will provide access to the counter and allow you to install several shelves inside. Usually cabinets of this size are made of wood or with a tile facade.
the dimensions of the secret door are determined by the dimensions of the tile or other material with which the room is lined. Usually 2-4 tiles are used, which forms a door approximately 35-35 or 35-70cm in size;
the depth of the cabinet should be such that inside you can work with a key or easily reach the desired valve.

It is worth considering that installing a cabinet is an almost inevitable process, so even before replacing pipelines, you should think about what size the structure will be and how well it will fit into the interior of the bathroom or toilet.

Required fittings

For a long and high-quality service of a sanitary cabinet, special attention should be paid to the fittings used in this product. Consider what accessories are used for the manufacture and installation of such cabinets, as well as the materials of the parts:

hinges are an important component of the doors, holding the entire weight of the product, responsible for the correct closing and the absence of gaps between the door and the frame. The hinges should be made of stainless alloys, so they will last longer;
closers, in the case of installing a folding door on a cabinet, play a very important role. This mechanism is responsible for keeping the door open and closing it smoothly;
when using roller shutters, you should choose those in which the box is hidden inside the cabinet. Such a roller shutter will fit better into the interior, while maintaining the conciseness of its design;
when installing a secret hatch lined with tiles or other material similar to the main one in the bathroom, only a mechanism is purchased that ensures the operation of the door system. The buyer himself must choose how to decorate the fixture. It is worth remembering that the installation of a secret hatch is carried out before the walls are finished;
locks and latches must work smoothly to ensure constant and unhindered access to communications. For a secret door, locks are used that open after the user presses the door itself. This design allows you to deprive the door of any external handles and locks;
furniture magnets can be used to tightly fit the doors to the frame.

How to DIY

Almost any repair is not complete without the help of specialists or other hired workers, however, there are times when the owner of the house himself decides to do something with his own hands. It is quite possible to make a sanitary cabinet with your own hands even for not the most experienced repairmen. Here are some helpful tips:

depending on the features of the layout of the room, it will be necessary to install a built-in or wall-mounted sanitary cabinet. In the first case, there will be less consumption of materials and, possibly, the amount of work;
having decided on the choice of design, it is worth building a frame. The metal frame is more durable than the wooden one and stronger. When installing the frame behind the toilet tank, it is worth remembering that it will prevent swing doors from opening. Niche frame - a simple rectangle to which the door is attached;
if the internal space allows you to organize storage in such a cabinet, then you need to install the shelves on the horizontal metal corners attached in advance. When installing shelves, it is very important that they do not touch the pipeline;
the last stage of the assembly is the installation of the selected facade.

It is important to remember about the treatment of all parts with impregnation against moisture ingress and such a cabinet will last a very long time.

Video

A photo

In the toilet, behind the toilet, there are water pipes, valves, meters, filters, a boiler or instantaneous water heater. To hide them and protect them from accidental mechanical damage, a plumbing cabinet is installed. Sometimes inside it there is a place for storing household chemicals, hygiene products. It is difficult to choose a ready-made version of the required size and configuration. Most likely, the cabinet will have to be ordered or made independently.

Important! When choosing between a plumbing hatch and a cabinet, it is wiser to give preference to the latter. If the pipe breaks, then the wall with the hatch will have to be dismantled, which is easy to avoid by installing a cabinet.

Kinds of door configurations for sanitary cabinet

The main purpose of a plumbing cabinet is to hide pipes. Its doors should open easily without touching the toilet or heated towel rail on the wall, provide quick and unhindered access to pipes and valves. There are several options for achieving these goals. The most common:

a wardrobe with an ordinary hinged door;
crate door;
hidden door (invisible);
plumbing shutters.

Swing Door Materials

Materials for finishing a bathroom, including the manufacture of a sanitary cabinet door, must, first of all, be resistant to moisture and household chemicals. These characteristics correspond to:

Hard polyvinyl chloride (plastic). The structure of the material provides it with low weight, strength, rigidity, and a smooth surface. It does not contain harmful components. PVC plastic can be cut, including curved, sawn, drilled, glued, screwed using common tools for wood and metal. Another advantage is a high degree of sound and heat insulation, which is important, given the proximity of pipes.
Glass in aluminum profile. Such doors are lightweight, durable, environmentally friendly, easy to use, not subject to corrosion. Using an aluminum frame, you can create a glass product of any configuration and complexity. Glass structures with aluminum profiles have high rates of sound and heat insulation, they are airtight, fireproof.

Waterproof plywood. It is a rigid board consisting of sheets of wood veneer fastened together. Plywood is lightweight, durable, easy to process and install. For finishing residential premises, it is recommended to choose a plate of the FK brand with a thickness of 15 mm. Other brands contain harmful substances. Moisture-resistant plywood is resistant to weak acids, alkalis and alcohol. Since its surface is not perfectly smooth, varnish must be applied for finishing after grinding.

Less suitable for the manufacture of doors in the toilet behind the toilet options:

wood.

These materials are used when the appearance of the product, rather than durability, is of paramount importance for the owners of the premises. On sale there are chipboard and MDF boards with impregnation that increases their moisture resistance. Products from such a plate will last longer. For the manufacture of a wooden door in the toilet, maple, larch, alder or other wood that tolerates constant exposure to moisture is suitable. Wood must be treated with a composition from moisture and decay, and then varnished. This also improves the durability of the product. The installed door can be decorated with an insert made of plastic, natural stone, drawing, carving, etc.

To prevent mold, you need to maintain good ventilation inside the piping cabinet. To do this, you can install a crate door made of wood or other material.

Furniture blinds

Another option to achieve the same result is a sanitary cabinet in the toilet with furniture roller shutters. Blinds are relatively expensive, but they are one of the most convenient and visually appealing ways to hide water pipes. Plumbing shutters can be made of aluminium, plastic or wood. They can be painted in any color, apply a picture or photo print. Plastic better than other materials tolerates high humidity and contact with aggressive household chemicals. Another advantage of the blinds is the ability to control from the remote control, which ensures hygiene. Horizontal and vertical plumbing blinds can be ordered to your size.

The best option for finishing the door of a plumbing cabinet and masking pipes is to install a canvas for painting. Such a sash can be painted to match the color of the walls or tiled. If you use hidden hinges, then the door located in the toilet behind the toilet will become almost invisible. This is a special type of hinges mounted in special grooves on the sash and door frame. When closed, they are not visible from the outside.

To open the sash, install hidden handles recessed into the canvas. You can also use the Push-to-open mechanism to open the stealth door. The sash swings open when you press it, without any handle.

Installing a hidden door will require the skills to perform such work, so it is better to entrust the installation to professionals.

Tools and additional materials

For self-manufacturing of the door to the toilet, you will need the following tools and materials:

roulette;
perforator;
drill;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
jigsaw or circular saw;
level;
bars for the box;
self-tapping screws;
loops;
pens.

Important! When choosing hinges, keep in mind that such a door opens often, so you should not save on quality.

Operating procedure

The procedure for self-manufacturing the door behind the toilet:

Think over the dimensions of the door, the design option and draw up a sketch. If the toilet is at some distance from the pipes, then you can make the sash almost to the floor. If it stands close to communications, then the cabinet should begin directly above the tank so that when the door is opened, it does not touch it.
In the niche behind the toilet, install a frame made of a metal profile, leaving a gap for a cabinet of the calculated size. Sheathe the frame with drywall. To finish a niche, it is better with the same material as the walls in the toilet.
Make a box out of polished and mold-treated wooden bars. Its size should be such that it can be freely inserted into the opening without leaving visible gaps. If there is space and desire, you can install shelves made of chipboard behind the doors by cutting holes for pipes in them. The option for manufacturing shelves is a base made of a profile, sheathed with plasterboard. Drywall can be painted, wallpapered or tiled.

Insert the box into the gap left under it. Attach it to the walls with screws. Check the horizontal level of the structure.
Cut blanks for doors from plywood, PVC plastic, wood, chipboard or MDF. It is more convenient if there are two of them. But if the cabinet turns out to be narrow due to the size of the pipe niche, then one door will be the best option. For trimming, it is better to use a circular saw, not a jigsaw, otherwise it is difficult to get products with smooth edges. The ends of the chipboard door need to be glued with an edge (for this you need a building hair dryer or a regular iron). The ends of the MDF sash can be painted or also closed with an edge. Wooden ends - sanded with sandpaper. The size of the door should be such that there are 3 mm gaps between it and the box on all sides. If there are two wings, then you need to take into account the same gap between them.
Screw the hinges and the handle to the door.
Attach the sash to the box. Attach loops to it. Sand the wooden door again, treat it with a composition from moisture and fungi, varnish it.

A plumbing cabinet is a convenient way to beautifully and intelligently decorate a niche with pipes in the toilet. The best option is to order a ready-made built-in wardrobe or plumbing blinds. But if financial possibilities are limited, you can make and install such a structure yourself.

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Lyudmila Anatolyevna 19.07.201820:29

Where can I order an invisible door or a door leaf in St. Petersburg?

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To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible piping is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. In high humidity, aluminum braid is prone to rust.
Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - to hot water.

When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment, flexible connections are also used. Unlike models for water, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and fixtures for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.

Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:

clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
high occurrence of groundwater;
technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What causes excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?

the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs

Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, rank;
from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow on high beds;
the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
the optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Do you need site drainage?

Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along a bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, an industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved and the act of testing the internal sewerage systems and drains will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the facility.

Visual inspection should be accompanied by entering into the act of testing internal sewerage and drain systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulation of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.