How to build a brick oven with your own hands. Laying a brick oven with your own hands. Seasonal oven moves

Brick stoves for the home are often the only way to equip the heating of the house, in the country or in the cottage. In brick ovens maximum value The efficiency reaches 85%: this is a consequence of the fact that their design does not include "heat consumers" that take a lot of heat energy.

• Brick ovens for the home

Brick heating stoves are quite simply manufactured and operated. The reason for these qualities is a narrow scope - for space heating (they are not intended for cooking, etc.).

Brick ovens for the home are also sometimes called "Dutch".

Brick ovens for the home

In houses and cottages, "Dutch women" are most often used, in which the thickness of the walls is equal to half a brick. If you heat such stoves from one to two times during the day, you can easily provide comfortable temperature conditions in a medium sized room.

Taking into account the dimensions of heating furnaces, they use two main methods of smoke circulation:

• in the "Dutch" of small size, where the firebox and the stove itself have common walls, the location of the bell-type smoke channels is at the top;
• for large furnaces, a combined smoke circulation system is used, in which the location of the smoke channels is carried out from the sides of the firebox and on top of it.

Dutch stove for a corner house

Another type of heating stoves - "Dutch" corner type. Since they have an angular shape, these furnaces are characterized by the fact that they take up less space, which can significantly increase usable area rooms by placing the stove in a corner.

Corner brick ovens are often installed because it is not possible to make a rectangular foundation.
To heat a 2-storey house or cottage, they use two-tier brick heating stoves. On each floor, an autonomous stove is installed, which has its own firebox.

The composition of modern heating furnaces includes grate. With the help of this solution, it became possible to deliver oxygen to the place of combustion of firewood, in the volumes that are necessary to ensure combustion. This is the reason that the combustion of fuel occurs at an intense pace, and with more uniformity. New smoke exhaust systems provide an opportunity to reduce the length of smoke channels. The smoke enters the stove chimney before being cooled down by the excess air.

The above has made it possible to make modern heating stoves more compact, reduce the time spent on the furnace, and also improve efficiency.

The scheme of laying a stove for a house is the first thing a person who decides to equip heating with a stove in his home will need. In this material, we will consider what schemes for laying home brick ovens exist, what are their features and differences.

Laying a stone stove can be done in the following ways:

• 1. undercut;
• 2. with empty seams;

When arranging the stove according to the first method, plastering the stove is not required, since all joints are filled with mortar. The wall thickness of the kiln determines the way the bricks are laid. The walls are laid out with a thickness of one brick, and half a brick. Sometimes, you can find masonry in 3.4 bricks.
For work on the arrangement of the furnace, it is imperative to use oven bricks. It is also called "red brick", full-bodied. Under no circumstances use bricks that were taken from any dismantled building, expanded clay blocks or slotted bricks.

Laying the first row is done simply with a brick, without using a mortar. The brick is leveled, the front wall is determined, the places where all the doors will be located. These operations can be called the last "estimate". When these actions are performed, the bricks lie down with the mortar.

After that, begin to lay the corners. The next stage, according to the advice of experts, is the arrangement of the contour of the entire stove. Using plumb lines, a twine is stretched from the ceiling to the corners of the stove. With the help of these vertical lines, you can easily navigate during the work.

Given the model of the stove you have chosen, you should determine the areas in which they will be located: a blower, a combustion chamber, an ash pan. The door under the blower is installed when the third row of bricks is laid out, after one row an ash pan is laid out.

After that, there is an arrangement of the firebox. Each door is attached with burnt wire. When you get to laying out the vault, you will need to cut the bricks. A calculation will be required to ensure a good docking of the bricks with each other. The laying of the vault begins after the second row of bricks is laid after the firebox door.

For lining the combustion chamber, special refractory bricks are used. Since the facing brick and masonry brick have different temperature characteristics, the installation of the lining to the furnace itself should not be rigid. During the installation of the chimney pipe, care should be taken to equip a special valve, the adjustment of which should be carried out smoothly and without difficulty.

Brick ovens for home - video instruction

Consumption ecology. Farmstead: A small stove for a summer cottage made of bricks can be made in a short time and with your own hands, without the help of a professional. We will talk about preparing the foundation, what materials are best for laying the stove, and how to properly prepare brick and clay so that the stove lasts a long time and heats your home well.

Very modest requirements are put forward for a do-it-yourself brick oven. Long breaks between visits, a relatively small volume of space to be heated, maximum efficiency and the use of local fuel - all these criteria indicate the choice in favor of a wood-burning stove. Contrary to popular belief, it is quite possible to make it without the services of a stove-maker. Let us consider in more detail how a small brick oven is designed and built for a summer residence with your own hands.

Preparation for work

It is unlikely that you will be able to make a complex and highly efficient stone oven for a brick cottage with your own hands without building experience. Too many nuances and secrets are fraught with the work of a professional stove-maker. But small in size and uncomplicated in design, a vertical stone stove for a summer residence can be built even by an unprepared person. The main thing in this process is to do everything very carefully, carefully and in accordance with our recommendations.

Choice of building materials

Since the described small brick oven for summer cottages is fired with wood, it is not intended for intense and prolonged heating - it can be folded from ordinary, not refractory bricks. Although, it is better to use heat-resistant material for the combustion chamber.

List and required amount of materials:

• red ceramic solid brick- 700 pieces;
• grate - 1 pc.;
• furnace door - 1 pc.;
• blower door - 1 pc.;
• soot cleaning channel doors - 2 pcs.;
• valve - 1 pc.

For a do-it-yourself wood-burning stove, you need to choose a full-bodied keramic brick, which does not crumble from the average blow of a hammer, and at the same time does not emit a sonorous (this is a red-hot brick), but a booming sound. It is desirable that the side faces of the bricks are smooth.

Clay will be needed for the solution. The stove-makers prefer to choose the "fat" one, from which the solution is soft, like butter, and plastic, like soft plasticine. Such clay for building a do-it-yourself stove can be found in hardware stores or after consulting with local residents, just dig in the county.

Tool

With a good oven tool country house built quickly and easily. For work, you should prepare a level, a plumb line, a trowel, a mason's hammer and dishes for preparing a clay solution. To cut bricks, you need a grinder.

We are preparing the foundation for a brick oven for a summer residence

Whatever the small brick oven for giving with your own hands - its weight is several hundred kilograms. Therefore, it is impossible to put it on the wooden floor of the room, but you need a foundation.

To choose the right place for the foundation, you need to project the plan of the stove onto the ground so that its pipe falls between the floor beams and the roof logs. If a chimney is provided in the wall of the house, then the stove for the country house should be located near it. When building a new house, the stove in the country can be built into the wall between the rooms. This option is very convenient: both rooms heat up equally quickly, but in one of the rooms, even under the most adverse conditions, there will never be smoke.

The depth of the foundation must exceed the depth of soil freezing. However, if the country house has its own deep foundation, then a combined base can be made at the stove for giving. To do this, four lightweight concrete columns are vertically dug into the ground, such as those used for fences. The posts should protrude from the ground just below floor level.

Between them, right on the surface of the soil, a gravel or sand cushion is poured into half a brick. Then a layer of roofing material or other sheet waterproofing is laid. A reinforcing metal mesh is laid on top, and a concrete foundation with reinforcement is poured on top of it. The top of the foundation must match the level of the floor and be perfectly horizontal!

Let's start building the oven

On top of the foundation, you need to lay another layer of waterproofing, and on it - a metal sheet. The dimensions of the sheet should exceed the projection of the stove by 10-15 cm. Moreover, from the side of loading firewood, it is better to make a larger release. Then random sparks from the blower will fall not on the wooden floor, but on the metal.

During operation, the stove for giving heats up quite strongly. If the nearby wall is made of wood or other flammable materials, it must be protected with thermal insulation. The simplest protection can be an asbestos sheet painted with heat-resistant paint or covered with a thin plaque. Open asbestos should not be kept, as its dust is considered very dangerous for inhalation. Instead of asbestos, a do-it-yourself dacha stove can be isolated from wood with a hard mineral wool slab. The material must be heat resistant. Facade construction wool is not suitable for this, because it has a too low temperature limit.

Preparing a clay solution

The country stove is built on clay, not on cement. Clay mortar is prepared from good clay and pure river or sea sand. If the clay is not purchased, but dug somewhere in the neighborhood, then it is worth first checking its quality. To do this, we make several test batches with different proportions of clay and sand. We roll the finished clay dough into small balls, rollers, cakes, and leave to dry for two weeks at room temperature.

Dried products must be tested: thrown from a height of human growth, try to crush them with a plank under the weight of a weight, etc. The composition of the most durable clay sample is taken as a standard. In the figure below, the best batch corresponds to samples "b".

Brick and Clay Preparation

A do-it-yourself stove for a summer residence is built from pre-soaked bricks! To do this, it is kept in water for at least 8 hours. During this time, all the air will come out, and the clay will be good to take on the brick in the masonry. Clay needs to be prepared quite a bit, so that approximately 20-25 pieces are enough for laying. bricks. Without the necessary experience, you can’t put more at a time. The thickness of the clay mortar in the masonry should not exceed 5 mm.

Peculiarities kiln masonry

In order for the oven in the country, laid out with your own hands, to serve for a long time, each row should be checked for right angles and the horizontalness of the surface. The laying sequence is visible on the ordering drawing.

The cast-iron doors of the blower and the combustion chamber are fastened with steel wire, which is walled up in masonry. The cuts are made by a grinder. In extreme cases, you can do it the old fashioned way - with a bricklayer's hammer, but at the same time, a lot of waste is possible for marriage. The area under the grate should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the grate itself. Then, when heated, the metal will not move the brick.

The solution is applied to the wet brick. Experienced stove-makers do it not with a trowel, but by hand. A good solution is as easy to apply as soft butter is spread on bread.

Important note

If during laying the brick sank lower than necessary, it should be removed, the mortar cleaned and laid on a fresh one. Otherwise, the new stove in the country will smoke heavily and let soot through. Unlike cement, it is absolutely impossible to move a brick along a clay mortar!

When building a stove for a summer house, try to make the inner walls as smooth as possible. Then soot will not linger on them, and it will be easier and less likely to need to be cleaned. Outside, the country stove should also be neat and beautiful. External seams should be carefully embroidered with embroidery or with your finger. In places where vaults and horizontal partitions are formed, there should also be no gaps. It is better to lay such rows slowly, one per day, so that the lower rows have time to grab, while the upper rows do not crawl.

Outcome

Despite the small size and simple design, for small houses, brick country stoves are very popular, as they show very good results. They heat up quickly and are warm enough to last all day. A small brick oven for a summer residence is notable for its low cost and availability for self-manufacturing, but with permanent residence in winter time it will have to be heated twice a day - in the morning and in the evening. published

Folding a stove with your own hands for a beginner can be an overwhelming task in our age of advanced industry and high technology. The cost of construction work, especially if they require some special knowledge and skills, is high.

It is understandable that many developers are trying to manage on their own. Where there is not enough own qualification, advice from friends or specialized reference publications help.

The disadvantage of this approach is that not all professions in demand are very common. Often there is a problem to find a specialist in a particular field. Alas, some types of work are already so scarce that they have passed into the category of art or are striving to do so.

Therefore, they are overgrown with some kind of myths and inaccuracies, which are extremely difficult for a non-professional to weed out. The furnace business has ceased to play an important role, therefore, many of its nuances, quite recently understood by every inhabitant, slip out of the field of vision of a modern person - there is not enough daily practice.

Big Picture

Furnace drawings can be found in abundance on the Internet or on the pages of monographs devoted to this matter. The difficulty is not in this. Much harder to choose optimal design, the most suitable for the specific conditions, requirements and expectations of the developer.

Yes, and to observe the subtleties of technology can be an overwhelming task for a beginner - as in many traditional crafts, experience plays a big role in furnace business. Too much in the technological chain is tied to some kind of tactile sensations, intuition. It is almost impossible to teach these nuances remotely - too much is transmitted only through personal contact between the master and the student.

Fortunately, now the burden on the stoves is not the same as before, when they were the main way to heat a home during the cold season. Now these designs play the role of fun or an additional, backup heater. Consequently, the former thoroughness of their installation is no longer so in demand.

The furnace, which is not so often operated and not with such intensity, does not require careful observance of technological subtleties during masonry. Although, of course, one should still strive for this.

In cities, stoves are no longer installed - engineers have long come up with better and cheaper ways to warm a home. But outside the urban area, in the country, a stove that is simple in design and unpretentious in maintenance may still be in demand.

Design choice

Before finally dwelling on some design, it is necessary to clearly localize the range of tasks facing the future furnace system. What is expected from it, how often they plan to operate it and for what purpose. And then make a choice.

Traditionally, all furnaces are divided into two main classes according to their functional characteristics. The design can be:

• heating;
• heating and cooking.

The difference is clear from the name of each class. Heating stoves narrowly specialized and can only heat. True, everything in their design is subject to the fact that they perform their task as efficiently as possible.

The heating and cooking design is already universal. You can still cook food on it. It doesn’t matter what exactly is added to the ability to heat a home: an oven, a bread chamber, a stove, a smokehouse. The important thing is that the furnace has become dual-purpose.

In the dacha sector, heating and cooking are the most popular, because it is simple and practical - as a rule, this is the only stove in the house, and therefore versatility does not interfere with it.

Also, the growing popularity suburban areas if not created, then reanimated a class of stoves, rare to this day, intended only for cooking. They are now united under the very vague and widely interpreted name "barbecue".

Although it would be more correct to define them as a group of stove complexes, since they can include not only a primitive barbecue, but also an additional set of services limited only by the desires and capabilities of the owner. And they cannot be attributed to any single furnace organism - this is really a complex created from a peculiar set of furnace modules.

Accordingly, a country stove with equal success can stand on the street (garden grill) or be designed exclusively for the home, so there is simply no universal step-by-step instruction - home and street types of stoves are only partly relatives, but structurally this is completely different types. Therefore, their masonry technology is slightly different - one of them requires increased moisture resistance, for which cement is added to the masonry mortar, which slightly reduces the fire resistance of the array.

About home ovens

They just don't put stoves in the house. This is a tool. And the main requirement for it is this: to make up for heat loss at home. Accordingly, the size of the furnace must correspond to the living volume heated by it.

In theory, hoping that the dacha will be operated only in the warm season and quite a bit in the off-season (late spring-early autumn), you can slightly reduce the required indicator and fold the stove less than would be required according to theoretical calculations. But practice shows that in 99% of such cases there is a temptation to visit a house in the wilderness at least once a year. As a result of an attempt to warm up too large an area, a small stove cracks - its power is initially insufficient.

And almost always a small furnace structure is operated with constant overload - often such forcing occurs involuntarily, unconsciously. They just try to create comfortable conditions for living at least for a while. So the result is quite natural: the masonry cracks and collapses rather quickly.

The point here is not the depravity of the chosen design or violations in the construction technology. The reason is the discrepancy between the dimensions of the furnace and the tasks assigned to it.

In the villages today you can find many different stoves, including outdated, archaic designs. And it is important to understand that the age of the scheme does not always indicate its quality. Unfortunately, many old stove fantasies are not suitable in a number of ways for repetition in modern realities.

For example, the once popular Dutch woman was once (in the 17th century) a truly revolutionary notion. But a lot of time has passed since then, and this scheme is very inconvenient today, from the point of view of safety and ease of use. The large length and the total number of successive smoke cycles lead to intense soot precipitation and the appearance of cracks in the furnace mass - too large a difference (gradient) in the heating of various parts of the body of the structure.

The traditional Russian stove also does not always meet the conditions of a country house - first of all, because it takes up too much space. In addition, the body of this design, even if we are talking about an improved one, is too massive. As a result - a large thermal inertia.

That is, the stove will have to be heated for a long time to warm up. Although it will take a long time to cool down. But this may turn out to be pleasant and necessary for permanent residence, but for irregular visits it will only interfere and annoy.

Probably, the best choice the summer resident will be the so-called Swede - a simple universal brick oven with a hob for one or two burners, limited by the cooking chamber and with an oven powered by one firebox with a stove. Structurally, the Swede is a slightly modified typical kitchen hearth with a heating shield.

The Swede is distinguished from the basic idea by the cooking chamber - a niche above the stove. Accordingly, a certain volume is formed above cooking chamber(this is the name of the niche in which the stove is enclosed), which can also be used somehow. Sometimes stove-makers place a dryer there, but it is more practical to include this array in an active block involved in heat transfer.

It is this scheme that will be discussed below. Moreover, the ordering is not so complicated and is quite understandable for a beginner.

Outdoor stove - wild domestic

The garden stove only conditionally has the status of a street stove. In fact, the open installation of a brick oven leads to its rapid failure - any moisture in the masonry (even capillary), frozen in winter, will lead to breaks. Therefore, barbecues are placed in gazebos or under a separate canopy to protect them from rain.

At the heart of any garden stove complex is always a kitchen stove in one variation or another. This can be a blind repetition (with the exception of masonry mortar - cement is added to it) of a typical kitchen hearth, but more often (for ease of execution and saving materials), the need to warm up the room is simply ignored and all elements that carry only heat storage load are removed from the structure. In the bottom line, there is only pure functionality: some kind of kitchen element for the heat treatment of products and a smoke oven (although they are sometimes donated to it, although extremely rarely).

The universality of a separate element of the furnace complex, as a rule, is avoided. Only if it promises the benefit of the layout plan - more services in a smaller area. If you want to add functionality, then a new unit with such a service is standardly attached. The only exception, probably, can be considered a Russian stove included in such a complex. But it itself is already universal initially.

Another moment. No matter how it was planned in advance, but in life the decision to cook this or that dish on the stove complex is almost always spontaneous. Therefore, it is worth considering that the start-up of the furnace takes a minimum of time and does not require any preliminary complex manipulations. This is a stone in the garden of those linkers who are trying to combine all the achievements of culinary thought in the Russian oven.

Very convenient in theory and extremely clumsy in life is a variation invented by someone, according to the recommendations of which a cast-iron stove with burners is embedded in a lowered hearth, and a welded barbecue box is piled on top of all this. And, before you use the stove or the crucible of the furnace, you have to drag back and forth a completely light iron brazier and each time look for a place for it. It is much easier when there is a separate, specialized module for such tasks.

Materials and other general points

First, let's talk about stoves, as a typical phenomenon, without particulars. What you need to observe, regardless of the layout, size and location:

• foundation. It is better when he has his own at the stove in the house, independent of the foundation of the house. But laid to the same depth as the foundation of the walls. Although the option with a common grillage and a covering plate is also quite acceptable. For a barbecue, it is better if the gazebo and oven are based on a common stove. Mandatory waterproofing in two layers. The first is at the level of the soil, the second is at the level of the finished floor or slightly lower;

• a solution of red clay and quarry sand. Normal fat content - the ratio is selected empirically. For laying fireclay bricks, mortar is used - this is a ready-made mixture of fireclay (ground shards of fired ceramics) and refractory clay. It is worth adding cement to the barbecue masonry mortar - about one trowel per bucket of masonry mortar;

• brick. Apply full-bodied, red, ceramic, wet plastic molding. The brand is not lower than the M150. The frost resistance class is better higher - no less than 50. In critical places (the firebox and the first chimney), it is better to replace the ceramic brick with fireclay. Any kiln masonry is carried out exclusively on soaked red brick. Fireclay is only rinsed from dust;
• permissible thickness of the masonry joint 1–5 mm for ceramic red and 1–3 mm for fireclay refractory. Fireclay and ceramic bricks should not be tied up in an array;

• imported iron casting with fine grain can be put in place immediately. Domestic casting with large grains (means that the casting went into an earthen mold, and not a metal mold) is better (not necessary) to anneal before installation to eliminate internal stresses - heat up to about 250 degrees and leave to cool without forcing the process;
• immediately after laying, the operation of the furnace is unacceptable- the structure must be completely dry. It's better if it happens naturally. Another thing is that such a luxury is not always available - not everyone has the opportunity to wait a month and a half or two until the array is completely freed from moisture. So, artificial drying is more often used, for which the stove is heated daily with small portions of absolutely dry fuel - literally a bunch of wood chips. Firewood has a hut in the firebox - this will give a high, but not hot flame.

swedish oven

There are a lot of Swedes. Each stove-maker has at least one variation of such a stove in his arsenal. The differences of most of them lie in small, insignificant details, but each author is inclined to attribute a lot of originality and innovation to his own vision of the issue.

In fact, everything is not so. Everything is almost the same. Therefore, disputes that it will be correct to arrange the chimneys in this way, and any interference in them mutual arrangement akin to desecration of shrines, it is fundamentally wrong. The Swede is a stove that allows for a free approach to layout without loss of efficiency.

In the forefront, the Swedes bring out an ash pan, a channel under the oven and a passage connecting the lower and lifting channels. They put cleaning doors and one blower.

It is better to mow the corners of the brick protruding into the internal channels so that the resistance to gases is minimal and less turbulence is created.

The oven is placed one row below the hearth. Do-it-yourself oven cabinet - right size industry does not produce.

The firebox must be lined with masonry on the edge or with longitudinal halves of bricks. This will help even out the heating of the array.

The partition between the firebox and the oven is a row below the stove - through this heil, the gases from the firebox go under the stove above the oven, and then go around it, and already under the oven they are sent to the vertical smoke circulation system.

When laying the side walls of the chamber above the stove, make sure that they do not pinch the hob plate - otherwise, the expanding metal will either burst or tear the brickwork.

The niche above the stove is covered with steel corners. It is worth saying that sometimes they put doors in it. It is very convenient, because it not only allows you to isolate the chamber from the kitchen space, but also creates some kind of oven, only large. While this step is possible, it is not required.

The gases in the chamber above the slab are forced to pass through the dividers before exiting into the pipe, which also work as racks that support the ceiling. At the same time, they increase the heat storage capacity of the furnace.

The stove is covered with three rows of masonry - this is the standard safe thickness of the ceiling of household stoves.

The oven can be slightly adjusted to the parameters of the room in which it is installed. Simply add or remove rows of the same type above or below the slab.

In support of the thesis about the existence of a large number of Swedes, we show a video where the scheme is basically the same, but implemented a little differently.

Simple Garden Barbecue Oven

And it makes sense to consider this design in detail, step by step, with an explanation of the main points of the circuit.

Materials:

• corner 32: 1.7 m for faience - 1 pc., 1 m for the barbecue ceiling - 4 pcs., 1.25 m for the table top ceiling - 4 pcs.;
• kiln brick- 1300 pieces;
• blower half-door 130x140 mm - 1 pc.;
• furnace door 240x280 mm - 1 pc.;
• cast iron stove under the cauldron single burner 705x530 mm or 600x600 mm - 1 pc.

Additionally:

• asbestos or basalt cord (kaolin wool can be used) for fixing the furnace door;
• knitting wire;
• clay;
• cement;
• sand;
• sheet asbestos (one sheet) or kaolin wool - for installing a stove under a cauldron;
• metal grill.

Among the owners of summer cottages recent times garden barbecues became popular. Most people are content with store-bought metal variations of these outdoor ovens. It’s easier, it doesn’t require the construction of some kind of special canopy to protect the structure from the weather, and less space is required to allocate on the site.

Meanwhile, many people prefer something more stationary and monumental. It's about a brick barbecue oven.

The very concept of "barbecue" is polysemantic. This is a dish cooked on coals (the usual shish kebab is also, in fact, a variety of this dish), and the culinary process itself, and an oven specially adapted to a specific method of cooking.

Most often, this is the name of an outdoor stove complex in the garden, equipped with a barbecue, which does not interfere with putting it in large kitchens in cottages (or on the veranda). Moreover, according to today's standards, a heating function is not always required from an oven - an outdoor barbecue, as a tool, is very utilitarian and is more “sharpened” specifically for cooking.

This does not prevent equipping the design with all sorts of additional options. The brazier can be accompanied by Russian ovens or “Pompeian” pizza ovens, stoves with ovens or smokehouses - everything, including washbasins and cupboards. It depends on wealth, rampant imagination and the availability of free space.

The most common set can be considered a brazier, a cutting table and a stove for a cauldron. We will consider this configuration in the version that is the simplest for independent execution. Let's add only a woodcutter - a niche for firewood under the barbecue.

Furnace location and foundation

The entire system weighs over five tons, so it is important to understand that the appropriate base will be required. Of course, this massiveness is to some extent compensated by a large supporting surface. Still, the foundation must be strong.

It is important to protect the masonry from rain and other troubles, especially from getting wet in autumn and freezing in winter. So, whatever one may say, but in our climate it is better to hide the barbecue in the gazebo. The degree of closeness of the latter is at the discretion of the owner. The main thing is to have a roof.

Such a restriction on the location has its advantages - as a foundation, you can use a common slab with a gazebo. The main thing is when it is poured in place future furnace provide for reinforced reinforcement, compared with the rest of the floor of the gazebo.

If there is no concrete floor at the gazebo, as such, then you can cast a separate platform on a sand cushion or use the option with screw piles. It is important to remember the wish: either they don’t play the stove with the gazebo, or they do it together, synchronously. In a word, as it happens on a slab foundation.

Composition and preparation of the solution

It is customary to lay stoves on a clay mortar with a thinner made of sand (for red clay) or fireclay (ground shard - for refractory clay). But with a barbecue, difficulties may arise due to street deployment.

A cement-based mortar is more suitable for the street. The downside is that he does not endure fire very steadfastly. The way out is in a compromise: add cement to the furnace clay-sand composition, approximately a trowel for a bucket of mortar. But above the roof, anyway, the pipe is laid on cement-sand.

The sand is taken from a quarry. River or sea is not suitable - its grains are rounded, which adversely affects the strength of the solution. Sand must be sown through a mesh with a cell of up to 3 mm.

Clay is taken as ordinary red. It is pre-soaked until small lumps disperse. Then filter through a sieve with a cell of about 2 mm to remove all sorts of stones and debris.

Next, the fat content of the clay and the need for sand are determined - the proportions necessary to obtain a normal solution. Usually these ratios are in the range of 1:1 to 1:6 (clay:sand). It all depends on the fat content of the clay, which, in turn, depends on the geology of the deposit. Simply put, in each place the clay has its own fat content.

Too greasy solution cracks due to strong shrinkage. Skinny (loam) does not hold firmly and crumbles from the seams.

There are many methods for determining fat content, but we can recommend this tactile one: we make several samples in different ratios and rub everything between the fingers (thumb and index). That lot wins, where solid grains will be felt, but the feeling of fatness, oiliness will not disappear.

If greasy areas without abrasive grains come across, then it is worth adding a leaner. If the grains under the fingers do not glide well, then add clay dough.

Final quality check: we throw a lump of mortar the size of a fist onto a sheet of iron (bayonet of a shovel, sidewall of a bucket, and something like that). You should get a cake with a thickness of 3-5 mm, as well as the optimal masonry seam for the oven. We dry the cake in the shade from twenty minutes to an hour.

Then we try to pick it off from a sheet of iron. It flakes off like a pancake from a frying pan - you need sand. It crumbles like dry earth from shoes - add clay. It is torn off with difficulty and has no cracks - they guessed right with the proportion.

The solution can be prepared in advance in a large container and covered during the break to reduce water evaporation. But cement is added to it directly into the bucket immediately before laying: a trowel per bucket, that is, a handful per ten liters of mortar.

For refractory bricks (if there is one in the structure), refractory masonry mortar should be taken. It is easier with it - it is sold dry in hardware stores. The same amount of cement is added to it.

Features of buying a brick

The easiest way is to buy refractory (chamotte) bricks. It's pretty much the same everywhere. More difficult with red ceramic.

You should take only full-bodied (without any pits and voids) and only plastic molding. Please ask the seller for this feature. And stay away from the dry-pressed variety.

Next, pay attention to geometry and integrity. No cracks, no deformations. When tapped, such a brick makes an even sonorous sound, without admixture of hoarseness and deaf tones. Its brand is usually M150 and above.

And we pay special attention to such a line in the specification as “frost resistance”. A good brick can withstand at least 50 winter-summer cycles. If more, then better.

Clinker, for example, holds 100 and above, but it bites in price. So, if there is no particularly free budget, then we take at least 50 cycles. But from such a brick, you can add the entire array of barbecue.

In extreme cases, in critical places, instead of red, we use fireclay brick. But he, too, it should be noted, is not cheap. And he does not like humidity - crumbles over time, like old foam.

As already mentioned, before laying the red brick, we must soak it - immerse it in water and hold it there until the air bubbles disappear. It's three or five minutes. Then we take it out and let the excess water drain. It's about a minute. And only then we carry out masonry from it. The soaking stage is mandatory, otherwise the masonry will be fragile.

Fireclay requires less preparatory effort. It is simply rinsed from dust.

If two types of bricks (chamotte and red) are used in the masonry of the array, then dressings are not made between them. And the fireclay array, hidden inside the red one, is made 3–4 centimeters lower. This is done because when heated, the expansion coefficient of these species building stone different.

All doors are mounted on flagella of twisted knitting wire or with riveted metal plates - clamps. The frame of the furnace door is pre-wrapped with a cord of basalt or asbestos soaked in a clay solution. You can use kaolin wool. They do this in order to compensate for the same CTE when heated - the linear expansion of the metal is several times higher than that of any type of brick.

Masonry stages

Let's start laying. We make seams no thicker than 5 mm (on fireclay - 3 mm). We check verticality and horizontality for each row. We do not allow voids in the solution.

We put the solution on the bed with a margin. We squeeze out the excess - on a wet brick it is not very difficult - and cut it off. We are not in a hurry so that the masonry does not float.

The given order is not the final version, but one of them. The main thing for a beginner is to understand the logic of organizing voids inside the furnace.

The order is presented from two angles. The first drawing is the location of the bricks in only one row. The second figure shows the big picture.

There are no internal cuts and other additional excesses - practice shows that beginners only get confused with such a presentation of material. But, having traced all the layers of ordering, you can easily understand the design of the stove. Thankfully, it's not that complicated.

Waterproofing is necessarily arranged under the furnace, even if it is provided for at the foundation.

1 row

Everything is simple. This is the base of the oven. A kind of marking of the heel of the contact.

The length of the table can be shortened. It depends on desire and appetite. You can also reduce the width of the barbecue, but no more than a brick, otherwise it will be inconvenient to use. You should not reduce the depth of the place under the barbecue - you need to leave room for manipulating skewers.

2 row

A barbecue area may not be erected - immediately put on the foundation slab. But with a small platform under the whole complex it is more convenient. From the second row on the site, we outline the main functional elements of the structure - its nodes.

We put the door of the blower-ashpit on a wire and clay mortar, without a compensatory cord - it does not heat up.

3 row

We outline the course for the gases of the stove.

4 row

5 row

We install the grate freely, without fixing anything. We select a nest in the brick for it, with a backlash of about 5 mm on each side. We do not fill the gap with anything, in case of thermal expansion.

6 row

The lining (additional inner lining) of the firebox is uneven. This is explained by the fact that most barbecues are attached to the wall. You can increase the lining of the back wall, but then the plate will extend too much - it will become uncomfortable.

The lining of the back wall can be done by laying on edge. But it is better to line with halves - a brick spread along.

The lining can just be made of fireclay bricks. We put the firebox door, as mentioned above, with a refractory winding around the frame.

7 row

We continue to lay. Especially carefully we carry out the overlap of the console of the right wall - the table top of the cutting table will rest on it.

8 row

The woodcutter's niche is covered with 32 corners. Some shelves are made of it, a seat for a brick. If there is a desire to reduce the visibility of this power element, then the first corner to the outer edge is shifted inward, and a cut is made in the brick, in which the corner is heated.

9 row

Make a small lap under the grill. This makes it easier to use the barbecue. When you approach the niche of the brazier, the toes of your feet do not rest against the wall.

10 row

Slightly increase the overlap of the barbecue. The overlap of the firebox door is also done by overlapping the side walls. If it doesn’t work out - with a wedge jumper, that is, like an arch, but going along such a wide arc that the deflection is not noticeable.

At the corners they cover the table top of the cutting table.

11 row

They make a niche for the barbecue. He should not reach the side walls. We need a margin of two or three centimeters - for expansion. Also, the brazier should not occupy the entire niche in depth - you need at least 5 cm so that the skewers do not rest against the back wall.

Now you can make the barbecue box itself. Actually, this metal box(wall thickness approx. 3–5 mm) in which the coals are placed. Its height is 15 cm or so. A smaller height will give dryness to the barbecue, a large one - smoked meat.

Along the perimeter of the box, it would be nice to put an additional strip of metal of a slightly greater thickness. It will not allow the walls to warp when heated.

At a height of 5 cm from the bottom, holes of 15 mm (plus or minus) were made in the walls of the box along the entire perimeter every 5-6 cm - for air to enter the combustion zone.

In general, there are designs with some kind of complex niches equipped with an air blowing system. But only in execution they are complicated, and in operation they are inconvenient. Option with a plug-in brazier from sheet metal, anyway, the most practical.

A little about the surface of the tabletop. You can leave it like that or put some kind of wear-resistant ceramic tiles like porcelain stoneware. Any option will do.

12 row

Install the plate. Ideally, 704x530, but 600x600 is also possible. You may have to make changes then, but they will be minimal.

Faience from the corner is required. This is the name of the corner that protects the edge of the masonry from destruction. It lies freely, but its edges go into the masonry and are pressed.

The slab is placed on a layer of clay mortar with the addition of soaked sheet asbestos. You can cut a recess under it. But again, the rule of free installation: about a centimeter on each side for the difference in expansion. No fixation.

Asbestos is torn up and thrown into the water. There he quickly soaks, turning into gruel. It is then added to the solution.

Second option. The masonry under the slab is smeared thinly with a solution, on which a strip of kaolin wool about 5 mm thick is placed, and the slab is already thrown onto this pillow.

An important point: the Finnish plate (differs in casting technology in a metal mold) can be installed immediately. It is better to first anneal the domestic stove (it is poured into the ground - it can be seen from the large grain in the structure) at the stake to relieve internal stresses. Otherwise, there is simply a chance that it will suddenly burst. They simply heat the stove on a fire (or in a thermal oven, if possible) and leave it to cool, without forcing cooling in any way.

You can install a slightly smaller plate, but you will have to modify the seat for it in advance.

13 row

The wall behind the slab is not bent to the side - the masonry is protected by faience. At the cutting table, the back wall is bent and holds the extreme bricks. Then she gradually fades away.

14 row

15 row

16 row

17 row

18 row

A small console is produced to support the overlapping of the barbecue niche.

19 row

20 row

You can overlap with an arch or a straight jumper. The niche can be made a little lower than in order. The main criterion: when approaching the barbecue niche, you need to see the far edge of the barbecue - this will come in handy during operation.

Despite the modern abundance of heating and kitchen equipment, many owners do not represent a private house without an oven - and this is absolutely correct. Even if it is planned to create an autonomous heating system, then the stove will also be useful. For example, in order to save money in the spring or autumn, when full-fledged heating is no longer needed, but you don’t want to breed excessive dampness in the house either. By heating the stove once a day or every two days, the rooms can maintain an optimal balance of humidity and heat.

Folding the oven with your own hands, a step-by-step instruction of which has intricate configurations, will be quite difficult for a beginner. Therefore, if there is no experience in the furnace business, then it is better to choose affordable option order in which it will be easy to understand.

When choosing a model, it is necessary to take into account not only the simplicity of the circuit, but also the heat transfer and functionality of the furnace, since there are furnaces that do not provide all the functions. Heat transfer is selected depending on the area that the heating structure should heat.

There are a lot of models of furnaces, since experienced stove-makers, working on one of them, they make their own adjustments to its design, and thanks to this, new and new options for the heater appear. And to stop at one of the types of furnaces, you need to know what they are in terms of functionality.

Prices for fireclay bricks for laying furnaces

fireclay brick

Types of brick ovens

There are t Three main types are heating and cooking, cooking and simply heating without additional built-in elements.

• A heating and cooking stove can have not only a hob, but an oven and a tank for heating water, as well as a drying niche. In addition, such a structure is able to heat one or two rooms of a certain area.

Such stoves are often built into the wall, turning the hob and firebox towards the kitchen, and the back wall into the living room. Thus, the stove performs a triple function - it works as a partition, food is cooked on it, and it provides dry heat to the bedroom or living room.

• work only for heating, and most often have a compact size. Such a stove is installed precisely in order to maintain a balance of moisture and heat in the house in autumn or spring, when it is too early to turn on independent heating or have not yet turned on the central one.

It is good to install such an oven, for example, in the country, if there is a device on which you can cook food. If the power supply in the holiday village is often turned off, then it is better to choose a building with a hob for installation.

• The cooking version of the stove can also serve for heating, if you need to heat small area. The device is perfect for a country house or for a small building for permanent residence.

With such a stove and a supply of firewood, you can not worry that the house will be cold and damp, and the family will be left without dinner or hot tea when the electricity or gas is turned off.

It should be noted that any type of furnace can be compact or massive. The choice of the size of the furnace structure depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house or room, as well as the place that is allocated for construction.

Choosing a place to install the oven

When choosing a place for the construction of a furnace, it is necessary to provide for the nuances that are important not only for creating comfortable operating conditions, but also for reasons of fire safety. It is especially important to consider location stoves in an already built house, since the chimney should not stumble upon its construction on the beams of the attic floor or on rafter legs roofs.

The stove is installed at the inner bearing wall, in the middle of the room or built into a wall located inside the house.

• It is not recommended to build a furnace near an external wall, as it will quickly cool down, and the efficiency of its use will be significantly reduced.
• In the middle of a large room, the stove is installed if it is necessary to divide the room into two zones. Moreover, with a beautiful decorative finish, it will become a decoration of the house and can become one of the elements for the interior that will emphasize a certain style.
• When building a stove into a partition between rooms, it is imperative to provide for its isolation from combustible wall materials using heat-resistant asbestos sheets or special drywall.
• The space allocated for the stove should be 120 ÷ 150 mm larger than its base in each direction, since the perimeter of the foundation always slightly exceeds the size of the stove.
• In order to make it easier to determine the size, you need to choose a model to which the ordering scheme is attached.

When the model is selected and the installation site is determined, you can proceed to the acquisition of materials and preparation of all necessary tools. The quantity and range of materials for each of the models is selected individually, but the tools used in masonry are always the same.

Tools to get the job done

For the process of building a furnace, you will need the following fixtures and tools:

A) A pickaxe is used for hewing and splitting bricks.

B) The furnace hammer has the same functions as the pick, but, in addition, it is convenient for them to remove the dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.

C) The rule is used to level the concrete on the foundation surface. Often it is made independently from a perfectly flat planed board.

D) A wooden spatula is used for grinding and mixing the clay solution.

E) The level is a necessary tool, as it will help to maintain the evenness of the rows, both in the horizontal and vertical direction.

E) A brush of bast is used to remove sand and hardened mortar from the internal surfaces of the furnace.

G) Pliers are used to cut off and bend steel wire when installing and fixing cast iron structural elements.

H) Lead scriber is used for marking when decorating the stove with tiles.

I) Stukalce - a piece of pipe used to fit tiles.

K) Scriber-rod for markings.

K) The rasp is used to grind lumps and remove sagging on the finished masonry.

M) The construction angle is necessary for deriving internal and external corners by 90 degrees.

H) A plumb bob is used to check the verticality of the walls.

A) A rubber mallet is used for tapping bricks laid in a row.

P) A chisel is needed for parsing old masonry and splitting bricks.

P) Trowels or trowels are used to remove excess mortar and apply it to the rows of bricks during masonry.

C) Jointing will be needed if the stove is not lined finishing material, and the seams between the rows will be neatly shaped.

In addition, you will need two containers for mortar and water, as well as a sieve for sand, if the solution is made independently.

The laying of the upper rows will be easier if there are "goats"

For the convenience of carrying out work, you need to have scaffolds, which are called “goats” in another way. It is convenient to stand on them, carrying out masonry at a height, especially since the size of the working platform provides a place for installing a container with a solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for the furnace

• The foundation for the furnace is usually laid together with the general foundation for the entire structure, but they should not be interconnected, since one of them may damage the other if deformed or shrinkage.
• If the stove will be built in a house already built on a strip or column foundation with a wooden floor, then the coating will have to be opened and the base under the stove built from the ground.
• If a compact stove model is chosen, and a slab foundation, then the heating structure can be erected directly on itby making a waterproofing gasket.

If the foundation sun still, you will have to equip it from scratch, you need to remember that it must have the same shape as the base of the furnace, but protrude beyond it by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each direction.

• on wooden semi marked out the contour of the foundation, a part of the boardwalk is sawn according to the markings.
• Further, a pit of the required size is dug in the underground soil, with a depth of 450 ÷ 500 mm.
• The soil at the bottom of the pit is well compacted, and a sand bed is made on it, which is moistened with water and also compacted to a thickness of 80 ÷ 100 mm.

Pit under the furnace foundation with a sand and gravel "cushion"

• After that, roofing material can be laid around the perimeter of the pit, which will perform the function of waterproofing and formwork, if it is temporarily reinforced with boards or bricks. After the concrete mortar has hardened, the formwork is removed from the foundation.

Instead of roofing felt, formwork made of boards covered from the inside with a polyethylene sheet can be used.

It should be noted right away that it is better if the concrete base for the furnace rises 70 ÷ 100 mm above the floor. In this way, bricks can be saved and the joining of the floor surface and the side walls of the foundation can be simplified.

• A layer of crushed stone of the same thickness is poured on top of the sand and is also well compacted.
• The next step is to install a reinforcing grate made of metal wire or a finished mesh at the bottom of the pit. The elements of the lattice are interconnected by means of a twist of wire.

Foundation reinforcement - option

• The first layer of mortar is poured into the prepared pit. It may consist of gravel, sand and cement— 1:2:1 or gravel and cement 3:1. This layer should take up approximately ⅓ of the space to be filled.
• After pouring the first layer, immediately knead and pour the second, consisting of sand and cement in proportions of 3: 1.

The second layer is poured to such a height that 50 mm remain to the top, which will be required for the upper leveling layer of the foundation.

If necessary, for the upper layer of concrete, the formwork can be expanded, and then a reinforcing mesh with cells of 70 ÷ 80 mm can be laid on top of the poured mortar.

• Then the last top layer of the solution is poured and leveled using the rule.

The foundation is left for the maturation of concrete for 27÷30 days. It is advisable to moisten it daily with water and then close it. plastic wrap- this will help to make concrete more monolithic and durable.

On the finished foundation, after removing the formwork, two or three layers of roofing material are laid, which will protect the brickwork of the furnace from capillary moisture coming from the ground or from the underground.

After that, you can proceed to the main work - laying the furnace.

A few recommendations for masonry work

• Before starting laying bricks on the mortar, the whole structure rises dry from the brick, but each of the rows must be laid out strictly in accordance with the ordering scheme.

Experienced stove-makers advise dry pre-laying to all craftsmen who take up the construction of a stove for the first time. This event is necessary in order to understand the location of all internal channels and not make gross mistakes when fitting bricks in each of the rows.

For laying dry, you need to stock up wooden slats, which will determine the thickness of the seam between the bricks. Usually their thickness is 5-7 mm. The same rail will need to be used for the main masonry, already carried out with a solution. Such a "calibration" of the thickness of the seam is especially necessary if the laying is done "for jointing", and must be flawless.

This process is carried out slowly, thoughtfully, since it is very important to understand how the smoke will be removed from the furnace, and how it will enter the chimney.

• Having lifted the structure dry before laying the pipe, it is carefully dismantled. If at the same time the bricks were adjusted to size, then each row can be folded into a separate pile by marking the number of the row and the place in it on the bricks with a marker.
• Performing the main masonry, each of the rows is also first laid out dry, and then, after carefully fitting all the details, it is mounted on the mortar.
• When the main masonry is done, two measuring rails are laid on the edges of the previous row to maintain the exact thickness of the seam. Then the solution is applied with a layer of 10 ÷ 12 mm. A brick is laid on top of the mortar, pressed, and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber mallet until the brick rests against the measuring rail. The excess protruding solution is selected with a trowel.

• The slats are pulled out of the masonry after the installation of the third ÷ fourth row above them, and then used again. Therefore, you need to prepare several pairs of these auxiliary elements.
• After pulling out the slats, the seams are carefully filled with mortar and immediately “embroidered”.
• When laying on the mortar, each of the rows is checked using the building level for compliance with the horizontal and vertical planes.

Compliance with these nuances will help simplify the process of building any furnace, avoid "fatal" errors that may lead to the need to redo all the work.

Heating and cooking oven with a drying chamber designed by Yu. Proskurin

As mentioned above, there is a large number of different types of ovens. This publication will consider one of the compact and functional options that can be installed in a small house, as it does not take up much space, but is able to heat a room of 16 ÷ 17 m².

The design of Yu. Proskurin's oven is a double-turn heating and cooking option, equipped with a single-burner stove and a drying chamber designed for drying vegetables and fruits, medicinal herbs, mushrooms, etc.

If desired, an oven box of a suitable size can be installed in the niche of the drying chamber.

The furnace has dimensions (excluding the height of the chimney) 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. Its heat transfer is 1700 kcal/h. The design provides for two operating modes - summer and winter, which is very important both for fuel economy and for the ability to heat the stove and cook food, without melting all constructions in the summer.

List of required materials

In order to build such a heating structure, you will need the following materials:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (piece)	Element dimensions (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying)	281 to 285	-
Fireclay bricks refractory grade Sh-8	82-85	-
Furnace door	1	210×250
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140×140
Blower door	1	140×250
Summer damper for chimney	1	130×130
Firebox valve	1	130×130
gate valve for hob	1	130×130
grate	1	200×300
Single burner hob	1	410×340
steel strip	1	40×260×5
	1	40×350×5
	1	40×360×5
steel corner	1	40×40×635
	3	40×40×510
	4	40×40×350
roofing iron	1	380×310
Pre-furnace metal sheet	1	500×700

In addition, clay, sand, cement, crushed stone, gravel, marl and an oven box are required for work, if decided, install an oven instead of a drying niche.

Scheme-ordering the construction of a furnace designed by Yu. Proskurin

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first row is laid out in a continuous plane, observing the location of the bricks. It is very important to lay this row perfectly evenly in all respects, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it.
	In the second row, a blower (ash) chamber and the base of two vertical channels are formed. On the same row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are installed.
	On the metal doors there are special ears, into which pieces of steel wire are threaded and twisted - they will then be embedded in the seams between the bricks. Temporarily, until they are completely fixed, the doors are supported by bricks on one or both sides.
	On the third row, the formation of the blower chamber and the lower part of the chamber of vertical channels continues. At the same time, there is a fixing on both sides of the installed doors.
	On the fourth row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are completely covered with bricks. The common chamber of the vertical channels is divided in two, so instead of one large hole, two are formed, having a length of ⅔ of a brick and a width of half a brick.
	The fifth row is fully laid out with fireclay bricks. Above the ash chamber, a hole is formed with a seat for the grate. To do this, a part of the brick is cut out, from the side with which it should be turned to the hole above the blower chamber.
	The grate is mounted on the same row. It is planted on a clay solution or laid freely, without a solution. There should be a distance of 4-5 mm between it and the brick.
	On the sixth row, the formation of the combustion chamber and vertical channels continues.
	In addition, a furnace door is installed on the same row, the frame of which must be wrapped or overlaid with asbestos before installation, which, when the metal is heated, will allow it to expand without stress and damage.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out according to the order, the formation of the firebox and vertical channels continues on them.
	On the ninth row, the furnace door is covered with bricks. Moreover, in order to remove the load from the ceiling from the door, the side and third bricks from the edge are ground off on one side, and a brick is installed between them, hewn on both sides.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber and the first vertical channel are combined - this is done so that hot smoke from the furnace is directed precisely into this created hole. For a smooth flow of smoke, the protruding corner of the solid brick enclosing the second vertical channel is cut off.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry follows the scheme, except that cutouts are made on the edges of the bricks framing the combustion chamber, which will form a recess for mounting a single-burner hob.
	Then, on the same row, asbestos strips are laid on the cuts made on the bricks, and the slab panel is mounted on them. From the side of the formation of the cooking niche, a steel corner is installed.
	The 12th row is laid out from red brick, and in the future all the masonry comes from it. Two vertical channels are again formed, and a niche is being formed around the hob.
	The 13th row is laid according to the scheme, but in the front of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing the summer-winter valve. After that, a valve is mounted on a clay-sand mortar.
	From the 14th to the 17th row, the laying is carried out according to the same principle - a cooking niche and channels are formed.
	On the 18th row, steel corners overlap the cooking niche. One of them is mounted on the edge of the niche, the second - at a distance of a brick from the first, and the third is pressed against the second with the back side. This is done in order to make it convenient to carry out the laying of the next row.
	On the 19th row, the cooking niche is completely covered, with the exception of the formation of an opening for the steam exhaust channel and a place for installing a valve. To do this, cutouts are made on the bricks into which the valve is mounted.
	20 row is laid out according to the scheme. The formation of two vertical channels and a steam exhaust hole continues on it. Moreover, if you look closely, you can see that one of the bricks forming the first vertical channel is cramped.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the steam exhaust channel are combined with the help of the hollow space left. In this row, almost all bricks are placed only along the walls of the perimeter of the structure. Only the second vertical channel is protected.
	In the same row, the resulting cavity is covered with metal strips, which are laid according to the scheme shown in the figure.
	Further, a sheet of roofing iron is laid on the steel strips, with the help of which a chimney hole is organized, located in opposite side from the steam outlet.
	On the 22nd row, laying is done on top of the roofing sheet. A hole for the chimney and two holes for vertical channels are left. In the place where the drying niche will be formed, a piece of a corner is laid, which will protect the brick on the edge of the chamber from damage and make the edge of the niche more accurate.
	23rd row - a drying chamber is formed, and its back wall is made of bricks installed on its side. It will isolate the chamber from the opening of the chimney channel.
	On the 24th row, the walls of the drying chamber, the chimney and two vertical channels are formed.
	25 row - work continues according to the scheme. The second brick of the rear wall of the chamber is installed in the same way as the first.
	On the 26th row, preparations are underway to combine two vertical channels, therefore interior bricks in both holes grind at a slight angle.
	27 row - the first and second channels are combined with masonry. For them, a common cleaning door is installed. The rest of the work goes according to the scheme.
	On the 28th row, the drying chamber is covered with three pieces of corners according to the same principle as the overlapping of the cooking niche was done. The vertical channels are combined into one wide one, and the cleaning door is fixed with side bricks.
	On the 29th row, the drying chamber is completely blocked and vertical channels. A hole in the chimney channel is left, which is lined with bricks with cut out mounting grooves for the chimney valve. After laying the row, a frame with a valve is installed on the clay-sand mortar.
	On the 30th row, the entire surface of the furnace is completely covered. Only the chimney hole is left, which should be half a brick in size.
	31-32 row - the formation of the chimney begins.

This figure shows the oven in section. The diagram clearly shows all the internal channels through which heated air will circulate.

There are many options for stoves for cottages and houses. Some of them involve financial expenses, others require direct hands. What about those who did not work out either with money or with skill? A simple brick stove will help out, which even a "humanist" can fold.

The article considers two options. The first is suitable for those who want more or less "decent" heating and cooking equipment. The second will be useful to readers who do not pretend at all to a penchant for handicraft, or to any kind of aesthetics of the result.

Figure 1. A simple brick oven

How to make a simple but effective oven?

This option can serve as an alternative to the simplest metal heaters - for example, a potbelly stove. With the help of this stove, you can heat the room, cook food, and even admire the flame.

The design occupies a little more than half square meter. Unlike full-fledged brick ovens, this one does not require a foundation. The weight of the structure is not so great as to make a powerful foundation - it is enough to put a solid board.

The oven can be made in just a day. One of the advantages of the option is that the starting heating is possible in the evening. Certain skills are necessary, but they are not beyond the skills of the average male.

On a note! No qualifications are required for the construction of furnaces. But it is necessary to observe the order - this will make the design as effective as possible in the context of its potential.

What is required for work?

This is not only simple, but also a budget option. To build a structure you will need:

• brick:
• * fireclay - 37 pcs.;
• * red - 60 pcs.;
• the door blew;
• firebox door;
• lattice;
• valve;
• cast iron hob.

As a binder - clay solution. In total, about 20-25 liters of the mixture will be needed.

Training

The first step is to determine the location of the furnace. Since the mass of the structure is small, there are no restrictions inherent in traditional brick solutions. Having fixed strong boards or a suitable alternative material, the “foundation” is thermally and waterproofed.

The role of an insulator can be played by non-combustible material - for example, basalt wool. Polyethylene or roofing material is placed on top of the base. The size of the latter corresponds to the size of the base plus a small allowance.

A layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured on top. The bedding is leveled. It is important to make the base even - the quality of the structure and the convenience of subsequent work depend on this.

Masonry scheme

Figure 2. The order of the furnace masonry The furnace order is as follows:

1. The first row is laid on the sand without using a solution. A dozen bricks are leveled strictly according to the level. The bricks are smeared with a thin layer of the mixture, after which the blower door is mounted from the end. The door is pre-wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord that compensates for the thermal expansion of the metal.
2. After fixing the door with a wire, lay the second row according to the diagram. Form a blower.
3. Fireclay is used (in the diagram it is distinguished by a yellow tint). After laying, a grate is mounted above the blower.
4. Prior to this, the brick was laid flat. On this row, it is placed on the edge. A smoke channel is formed, inside which the basis for the partition is made. One of the bricks (it can be seen in the illustration) is laid "dry" - subsequently it will be removed. After that, the firebox door is mounted, which is wrapped several times with strips of asbestos before installation. But you need to do this so that the door opens well up. The element is fixed with wire and a pair of bricks.
5. The brick is laid flat again, duplicating the previous row.
6. Again, the “rib” turn is the second and last row in which the brick is laid in this way. The exception is the next row, in which one of the walls is formed by laying on edge. The walls of the chimney channel should be wiped with a damp cloth.
7. The brick is laid flat according to the scheme. The back wall is made, again using the "on edge" format.
8. This closes the firebox. A couple of bricks should hang over the firebox so that the flame moves to the middle of the hob - in case the stove is used as a fireplace (without closing the firebox door).
9. The bricks are slightly shifted to the back wall to support the firebox door. Strips of asbestos soaked in water are laid in front of the brickwork. This ensures the sealing of the gap between ceramics and cast iron. It is impossible to put a cast-iron panel directly on the clay mortar, otherwise the difference in the thermal expansion parameters of the materials will lead to cracks.
10. At this stage, the formation of a chimney pipe starts. The latter, according to the plan, should gradually expand towards the back. But only the chimney base is made of brick. The rest is made of light metal. Otherwise, the excess mass of the element may lead to a shift in the center of gravity of the stove.
11. Here a valve is mounted, sealed with strips of asbestos. The latter are recommended to be pre-coated with clay mortar. This is the final row, which completes the construction of a brick oven directly with your own hands. The remaining pair of rows is given to the chimney, which will then be joined to a lighter metal channel.

After that, those bricks that were laid “dry” on the 4th row are removed. At the same stage, the smoke channel and the surface of the stove are cleaned of construction debris.

Final works

The simplest stove does not involve serious embellishments. The only decoration is whitewashing. It is recommended to add a little blue and milk to the composition - this will protect the coating from the formation yellow plaque and whitening.

Important! Before work, brick and metal should be protected. If this is not done (for example, with the help of a film), then the stains will not get rid of.

It is necessary to grease the seams between brick and metal of the chimney very well, as well as the seams between ceramics and cast iron.

Be sure to close the joint between the oven brick and the floor. This will prevent sand from getting into the room. It is desirable to cover the joint with a L-shaped sheet. Then they make a plinth edging, which serves both as a decor and as an additional element that prevents the “foundation” backfill from spilling out.

Figure 3. Functioning furnace

The oven is ready. The entire process took less than one business day. Already now you can try to make a low-power kindling. Logs cannot be used - only wood chips or paper. Wood-fired kindling will create too high a temperature, and the structure will crack. For a full setting of the mixture, you need to give a week or two. After that, you can already drown "in an adult way."

An even simpler version of the stove

If the previous option seemed complicated to someone (although it is not), you can offer an extremely simplified heating design. This oven with your own hands can be laid out in just an hour, even if the hands are generally far from being called golden.

Figure 4. The simplest version of a brick oven

The principle of operation of the structure is simple. Burning down below solid fuel, here settling under the influence of its own mass. Temperature differences create a thrust that carries hot air currents upward. At the same time, firewood burns almost without residue - the smoke is minimal.

For masonry, you only need two dozen whole bricks and two halves. The stove consists of five rows. The design is so simple that it makes no sense to describe the order. The procedure is clearly shown in the illustration.

Figure 5. Ordering the simplest brick structure If you lay the bricks correctly (and it is very difficult to do otherwise), the result will be similar to that shown in the photo. Bricks are recommended to be connected with clay mortar. But in field conditions, you can do without a binder - just put the components on top of each other according to the order. In this case, the stove is built in five minutes.

Figure 6. Masonry process Figure 7. Finished mobile brick oven

For those who want an intermediate option, we can recommend a slightly more complicated option.

Figure 8. Scheme of the device of a simple stove. According to this scheme, the output is an L-shaped three-section stove. The first compartment is designed to load firewood. The second is a chamber in which the logs are burned. The third compartment is the chimney channel.

Figure 9. L-shaped stove

The creation of this design will also require 20-30 bricks. This option can be mastered by yourself in a couple of hours, if the skills of a bricklayer are completely absent. The construction will obey the specialist in a matter of minutes.

Advantages of the simplest furnace designs

Design advantages:

• very high installation speed - from a day to several minutes;
• does not require a foundation; the stove can be folded anywhere; and if you do not use a binder mixture, the stove comes out collapsible and easily moves;
• as fuel - everything that burns: logs, branches, cones, corn stalks, leaves, chipboard, furniture remnants, etc .;
• fuel consumption is several times less than, for example, in the case of a potbelly stove;
• the simplest option - without the use of clay - allows you to get more heat transfer than from a fire; that's why similar designs- a godsend for those who do not want to constantly maintain a fire on a hike;
• almost complete absence of smoke - fuel burns with a minimum of waste;
• the temperature of the bricks reaches 1000 degrees - good heating and fast cooking food provided.

Conclusion

Figure 10. Another L-shaped option

Even the most advanced version of this review does not require qualifications and a lot of time. The choice of design depends on the goals of the stove. In a stationary case, the first option is suitable. For mobile situations and completely unskilled users, it is better to use even more simplified schemes.

znatoktepla.ru

How to fold a brick oven for a house or cottage

Despite the development of new technologies, a conventional wood-burning brick stove continues to be one of the most sought-after sources of heat for private and country houses as well as garages and other outbuildings. But the construction of even the simplest stove requires tangible financial costs, which is why many homeowners are interested in whether it is possible to build it yourself and how best to do it.

To help them save on construction, this material tells how to properly fold a simple brick stove with your own hands, designed to heat a residential building or cottage.

Furnace project selection

It's no secret that there are countless different projects of wood-fired brick ovens, and master stove-makers are constantly coming up with new designs. That is why it will not be easy for a person who decides to master the basics of the furnace business to make a choice among them. Therefore, you should first give clear answers to the following questions:

1. What tasks should a brick oven solve in your house, will it only be a heating one, or will it need to be used to cook food and heat water?
2. How much space are you willing to allocate for the construction of the stove when building a new house?
3. If a cottage or a house has already been built, then you need to think about the location of the heater and the passage of the ceilings with a chimney. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the device of a separate foundation.
4. Decide in advance on the design, you may wish to build a fireplace stove with panoramic glass.

Advice. At first, a beginner should not take on the laying of a serious brick oven in the house, but to begin with, lay down something simple and small in the yard - a barbecue or barbecue, since there are quite a lot of such projects published. Having trained and stuffed your hand, you will understand the nuances of this work and start building a home heater more confidently.

Scheme of a street barbecue with lockers

Of course, immediately build with your own hands beautiful stove with built-in panoramic glass, an ignorant person is unlikely to succeed. But after all, to perform these works and consultations, you can always invite a stove-maker. As a rule, these people are benevolent, since the construction of a hearth must always be approached with a soul. As for choosing a project, you are offered 3 simple options:

• conventional hob for 2 burners with a tank for heating water;
• channel heating stove - Dutch;
• heating and cooking stove of classical design.

The technology for building the original rocket stove is presented in our separate guide.

Cooker with water boiler

This stove has dimensions of 890 x 510 mm and is designed for cooking with simultaneous heating of water in a tank placed on the path of flue gases leaving the furnace. The total heat transfer of the stove is 1.2 kW when laying firewood twice a day. This furnace is shown below in sectional drawings:

Such a small-sized do-it-yourself brick oven is quite simple in execution and will take up little space in the kitchen. Subsequently, a heating shield can be attached to it in order to take more heat from the flue gases. The laying diagram below shows the order of the furnace:

To fold the hob yourself, you must first purchase the following materials and oven fittings:

• full-bodied ceramic brick - 185 pcs.;
• cast iron stove for 2 burners measuring 530 x 180;
• firebox door 250 x 210, ash pan 130 x 140, revision door 130 x 140;
• equal-shelf corner 30 x 4 - 3.6 m;
• oven 320 x 270 x 400;
• water tank 150 x 350 x 450.

Also, roofing steel and sheet asbestos with dimensions of 115 x 64 cm are required for lining under the stove, and a sheet of metal 50 x 70 cm is needed for laying on the floor in front of the stove.

Dutch channel stove

This classic duct-type heating stove, shown in the photo, really comes from Holland. Its advantages are simplicity and undemanding to the quality of materials, and the body of the furnace can also be increased arbitrarily in height and thus heat rooms on two floors. In addition, the Dutch can be safely considered a mini-oven, since it takes up very little space in the plan.

Making the simplest Dutch stove for 3 channels, shown below in the drawing, for an experienced craftsman will not be very difficult. A beginner will have to work hard to make high-quality masonry with dimensions in terms of 1010 x 510 mm, extending to a height of more than 2 m plus a chimney. But first, it is proposed to familiarize yourself with the masonry scheme of this brick oven and the orders:

For construction, the following materials will be required:

• full-bodied ceramic brick - 390 pcs.;
• grates 250 x 250 (cast iron or steel grate);
• firebox door 250 x 210, ash pan 140 x 140, revision door 140 x 140;
• metal gate valve 130 x 130;
• asbestos sheet 1000 x 500;
• the same sheet of roofing steel.

Heating and cooking oven

The design of this heat source is already more complex, although outwardly the stove resembles the same Dutch stove. Its dimensions are 650 x 510 mm, and the developed thermal power is about 1.5 kW. By the name of a brick oven - heating and cooking - it is easy to understand that it is designed both for heating rooms in the house and for cooking. The construction scheme is shown in the figure:

Scheme of a combined stove

An important point. If you carefully study the diagram, you can understand that the summer mode of operation in this simple design is not provided.

This means that cooking in the summer on the stove will be hot if it is located in the house. You will have to cook in a different way or choose a more suitable heat source design. Homeowners who are not embarrassed by this fact are offered a list of materials and procedures in order to successfully fold a brick oven:

• full-bodied ceramic brick - 211 pcs.;
• cast iron stove for 1 burner measuring 360 x 410;
• grate 250 x 250;
• firebox door 250 x 210, ash pan 130 x 140, inspection door 130 x 140, ventilation door 130 x 75;
• equal-shelf corner 32 x 4 - 300 mm;
• valve 140 x 140;
• knitting wire with a diameter of 1.5 - 5 m.

What kind of brick to lay the oven

The main building material for the construction of the furnace is red ceramic brick grade 150, made from baked clay. Its dimensions are standard - 250 x 120 x 65 mm, although in the past other stones were also produced for the furnace business. But now all the dimensions are unified, so that the fireclay (refractory) brick, from which the furnace firebox is often laid out, is the same size as the usual one.

In construction, a stone 88 mm high is still used, but it is not suitable for laying furnaces, since it has voids. Here, only full-bodied material is required, which does not have voids and cracks. For the latter, each unit must be carefully studied; a good quality brick is required for work. True, there is one exception - the Dutch oven, it can also be laid from less quality stones. But it’s not worth it to reach the point of absurdity, a heat source made of cobblestones will definitely not heat.

The fact is that a heating and cooking stove built with your own hands from low-quality red brick can crack even at the stage of drying the masonry mortar. It should be noted that the clay mortar dries up, and does not harden, like cement. Therefore, beginners are not recommended to experiment with bad or used bricks, otherwise the newly built oven will immediately require repair.

Chamotte stone for the formation of a firebox

Separate recommendation concerns masonry mortar. At first, you should not go to the nearest ravine for clay, because it still needs to be brought to the correct condition. Better buy it ready building mix for laying furnaces, clay or fireclay.

How to build an oven

In the vast majority of cases, construction begins with the construction of a foundation for a future heat source. An exception may be outdoor mini-ovens, which, due to their low weight, are sometimes placed directly on the concrete screed of the yard. All others, regardless of location, must be built on a solid foundation. Moreover, it is not allowed that the foundation of the furnace is connected with the base of the house or arranged close to it, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 5 cm, and preferably 10.

Important. Failure to comply with this requirement may lead to the fact that after a year or two the oven may crack and even deviate from the vertical.

If the house has a good foundation in the form of a cement screed, and total weight furnace does not exceed 750 kg, then the foundation is not required, the laying can be started directly from the screed, having previously laid sheets of asbestos and roofing steel. The structures given in the previous section have a weight of over 750 kg, and therefore it is necessary to arrange a reliable foundation for them. The foundations for the furnace are of 2 types: rubble and reinforced concrete.

Regardless of the type of base, you first need to dig a hole whose dimensions exceed the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe furnace by 10 cm in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of black soil or other subsidence soil, the sole of the foundation should rest on a denser layer. In the first case, the pit is laid with rubble stone with dressing, using a solution of the following components:

• sand - 6 parts;
• cement - 1 part;
• lime mixed with water - 1 part.

All voids between the stones are also filled with this solution, and the upper part, located at a depth of 80 mm from the floor, is leveled with it. Reinforced concrete base is poured with formwork and reinforcing mesh, having previously poured a pillow of crushed stone 10 cm thick onto the bottom of the pit.

Important. After the mortar or concrete has hardened, a waterproofing barrier made of roofing felt in 2 layers must be laid on top of the foundation.

The laying of the furnace is carried out in accordance with the orders in compliance with the thickness of the seams within 3-5 mm. After laying each row, it is necessary to control the observance of the vertical and horizontal lines using a plumb line and building level. The mortar can be applied to the brick with a trowel or by hand, light tapping of the stone after it is put in place is allowed.

The remains of the solution are removed from both sides of the wall, and the inside is wiped with a wet cloth to create a more smooth surface. This is necessary in order to provide the least resistance to flue gases.

When installing fittings and water tanks, it is important to ensure that between masonry and metal surface there were no gaps, the interface points must be carefully filled with mortar, otherwise the stove will smoke. Upon completion of construction, it is necessary to withstand 2 days until the mortar is completely dry, after which it is possible to make a trial furnace fire starting with a small amount of firewood. How to fold a small oven at home is described in detail in the video:

How to paint the oven

It is clear that the first time a newly-made master will not be able to lay down a beautiful stove due to lack of experience. But this is fixable, because outside you can make a brick wall cladding using staining. Previously, they were plastered and covered with two layers of whitewash of chalk or lime, but now there are simpler and more convenient means. In addition, lime is easily transferred to clothing when accidentally touched and constantly needs to be updated.

If we talk about how you can paint a brick oven, then there are such options:

• organosilicon heat-resistant enamel grade KO, designed for high temperatures;
• silicate or acrylic paints;
• heat-resistant varnish (for example, PF-238) mixed with dye.

The most preferred option is transparent enamel KO-85, KO-174 and KO-813. It is suitable both for the furnace itself and for painting metal parts, as it can withstand temperatures up to 600 ° C. Silicate and acrylic paints will not last as long, but they are cheaper. Also, the stove can be painted with transparent varnish PF-238 or mixed with gouache of the desired color, as shown in the photo:

In any case, the coating is applied for 2 times, the second layer is applied after the first has dried. The tool used is a brush and a roller. It is desirable to pre-treat the surface with a special primer composition designed specifically for such purposes.

Conclusion

Of course, it is impossible to deeply reveal all the nuances of a complex furnace business within the framework of one article, only the basics are given here. For a novice home master, before getting down to business, it is advisable to study the relevant literature in order to successfully lay down his first oven. It is equally important to carry out preparatory stage, choose the right materials, tools and fixtures.

ovent.com

How to fold the oven with your own hands - bricklaying technology, tips + Video

It is not difficult to lay down a brick oven, which is always ready to warm any home, by yourself. You just need to learn some of the subtleties of building brick stoves and correctly use the knowledge gained.

What kind of brick oven can be installed in your home and where is the best place to do it?

By functionality, all stoves are usually divided into several types. Hobs have a special cast iron panel on which you can heat water and cook food. Such stoves are most often installed in summer cottages and in small private houses where people do not live in winter. In principle, a cooking stove is able to heat a small area, but its main task is not in this, but in cooking.

Heating systems are designed exclusively for heating the home. They do not cook on them, since they do not have a cooking panel, due to which they are usually very compact in size. Cooking and heating - a combination of the first two types of brick ovens, which makes it possible to heat a large area and cook any food. Often, such devices are equipped not only with a cast-iron panel, but also with a separate niche where you can dry fruits and vegetables, and a built-in oven.

Cooking and heating furnace

Regardless of the type, any stove must be as fireproof as possible, not smoke when kindling and burning, and also create comfortable conditions for staying in the house. To achieve this, you need to choose the right place in your home where you want to fold the stove, guided by the following recommendations:

• It is impossible to build a heating device near the outer wall of a residential building due to the fact that it will cool down very quickly due to exposure to cold air from outside.
• They put the stove in the middle of the room or next to the inner wall. It can also be built built into the wall. If the device is placed in the center of the room (this is done when the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe dwelling is large enough), it divides it into several functional parts– living room and kitchen, bedroom and dining room and so on. For small buildings, a stove built into the wall or mounted directly below it is more suitable.
• To simplify the masonry, it is desirable to find a correctly drawn up ordering scheme for a particular type of furnace.
• If the stove is built between two rooms, it must be separated from the wall surfaces with materials with a high heat resistance index.

Note that large devices for heating (the number of bricks is more than 500) and with their own chimney should be installed in the house on separate foundation. Moreover, it should not have a connection (mechanical) with the base of the building (this requirement must also be observed when the house and stove are being built together).

We make a foundation and choose a brick for building a furnace

If a relatively small stove is being built in an already operating house with a slab concrete foundation, it is allowed to mount it directly on the existing base. On the concrete floor, you will only need to lay roofing material.

When the flooring of the building is made of wood or the house is on a strip foundation, it will be necessary to prepare a separate base for the heating device.

You can do it yourself according to this scheme:

1. We mark on the floor a place for a future brick stove.
2. Removing the marked part floor covering and dig a pit in the ground under it (its depth should be about half a meter).
3. At the bottom of the pit we place a layer of sand (about 10 cm) and on top - crushed stone (the thickness is the same), we tamp the resulting “pillow”.
4. We put a plank formwork for the foundation along the perimeter of the pit (it is raised about 11 cm above the level of the main floor covering).
5. We fill half of the pit under the furnace foundation with a mixture of sand, crushed stone and cement, wait for it to harden.
6. We fill the second half of the pit with a solution (after the previous composition in the pit has firmly seized), which is desirable to make it more “thin” (add a little more water to it).

Base for heating device

After that, it is necessary to carefully level the foundation with the rule and wait about a month until it hardens firmly. And at this time, you can choose and buy a brick, remembering that the durability of the stove depends on its quality.

For masonry, refractory, ceramic, fireclay and special oven bricks, as well as hand-molded products, are used. All these materials should be selected by markings that indicate their strength. A brick oven in the house should be built from special products of the M150–M200 brands, which have:

• uniform color;
• straight edges with no chips or cracks;
• geometrically correct shape;
• dimensions 11.3x6.5 or 23x12.3 cm (it is advisable to buy bricks with exactly these parameters, since most ordinal schemes are developed for them).

Special oven bricks

It is allowed to use not oven brick, but fireclay. But be prepared for the fact that the fireclay oven will not only heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly. Outside, fireclay products are lined with ceramic bricks. This is a must. This finish is also recommended for heating structures built from special oven bricks.

Masonry stove mortars - what should they be?

Before folding the oven with your own hands, you should deal with the compositions that will ensure reliable fixation of the bricks and the entire structure. Usually, masonry mortars based on sand and clay are used (white kaolin or fireclay marl for ordinary bricks, gray Cambrian or ground refractory clay for ceramic).

The components of the composition for laying the stove must be selected very carefully. For example, if you feel that any smell (unpleasant or pleasant) is coming from fireclay clay, do not take it. The aroma indicates the presence of organic matter in the raw material. Such clay is not suitable for laying the furnace. Any sand is taken, the main thing is that there are no impurities in it.

clay with sand

The proportions in a solution of clay and sand are determined empirically by conducting special tests according to the following scheme:

• pour 1 kg of clay with ordinary water and leave for 24 hours until the composition turns sour;
• knead the clay to the state of plasticine (adding water to the sour mixture);
• divide the batch into 3–5 parts and add sand to its different portions (from 10 to 100% by volume);
• knead the solutions (as thoroughly as possible) and dry them for about 3.5 hours.

Then the samples must be carefully rolled out into “sausages” 30–40 cm long with a cross section of about 1.5 cm and wrapped around some round workpiece of a larger diameter. After that, they wait for the compositions to dry (about half an hour). It remains only to analyze the quality of the solutions.

Checking the quality of the masonry mortar

If microscopic cracks have formed on the “sausage” or there are none at all, feel free to mix clay and sand in the proportions used for this test. With cracks no deeper than 2 mm, the mortar can be used for laying those sections of the heating structure that do not warm up above 280-300 ° C. If the "sausages" are covered with gaps and deep cracks, this means that there is too much sand in the prepared mixture. It is prohibited to use it for the construction of the furnace.

An even simpler option is to purchase a ready-made mixture for furnace work at a hardware store. You don’t want to mess around with creating the “ideal” mortar yourself, just buy it and start building a brick oven.

It is important to strictly adhere to the ordering scheme you have chosen for a particular model. furnace design, as well as determine the type of masonry. Common ways to install bricks are masonry with empty seams and undercut. In the latter case, there is no need to plaster the finished stove - the mortar is present in it in all the seams made. But when performing work with empty seams, plastering the built furnace is a mandatory operation.

Scheme-ordering for furnace design

In order not to make fatal mistakes, it is recommended for beginners in the construction of home heating structures to pre-lay bricks without the use of a sand-clay mixture. It is done in order with the help of 5 mm thick rails. They are placed between rows of bricks. In fact, the slats "replace" the solution.

After you build the entire oven dry, and make sure everything is done correctly, start disassembling the structure. If possible, number all the bricks and stack them separately. Then the process of finishing masonry will be much faster for you.

Furnace finishing process

• vertical seams (all without exception) must be filled with mortar to avoid the possibility of delamination of the structure;
• each brick in the masonry must rest on at least two others;
• the smallest seam width is 2 mm;
• it is necessary to perform dressing of all rows vertically;
• the thickness of the mortar for masonry is taken about 5–7 mm, after pressing it with bricks, this value decreases by 2–3 mm (it is allowed to lightly tap the rows with a rubber mallet);
• when using ceramic bricks, they are dipped for a couple of seconds in ordinary water, due to which they stick to the mortar without any problems, fireclay products do not need to be “bathed”;
• before laying, the bricks should be cleaned with a hair brush from dust and crumbs (this operation is called mopping).

A few more important points. Bricks are laid on the place intended for them one by one. If the stone lay "by", it must be removed, the clay-sand mixture removed from it, and then put again. The solution that was removed from the bricks is not used in the future.

We carry out the laying of the furnace on our own using a clear and simple technology

The first row of the heating structure is laid out without the use of mortar. Then all the bricks included in it are carefully aligned and the locations of all doors and other elements of the furnace are determined. After that, you need to set the position corner stones and place them in the solution.

We use a level to accurately align the position of the bricks horizontally, as well as a tape measure to check the dimensions of the structure under construction in diagonal and plan. Now you can lay the first row on a sand-clay mixture, starting work from the middle of the row.

Laying the first row on a sand-clay mixture

The verticality of the entire contour of the brick oven during its construction is controlled by means of a simple device - plumb lines, stretched on a string from the ceiling to the oven corners. The lines made in this way will be an excellent guide for masonry. Having completed the first row, we perform the laying of the second row in a similar way:

• put the stones in their place in the corners;
• we check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line from the ceiling;
• lay out the middle of the second row.

In the same way, we lay the third and subsequent rows of bricks. Do not forget to constantly check with the furnace construction plan (with order). Be sure to clean the outer and inner parts of the stones from excess mortar with a construction trowel.

Depending on the type of furnace, choose the location of the firebox, blower, ash pan. In a conventional heating device, the blower compartment is most often made after the third row of bricks, the ash pan after the fifth.

When laying the stove, one should adhere to the important principle of dressing the stones used, which involves overlapping the next row of each vertical seam with bricks. It is desirable that the vertical connection is located clearly in the center of the brick of the next row. In practice, such an "idyll" is rarely achieved. In this case, try to move the seam to a maximum of a quarter of the stone.

Do not forget to mount a special sheet between the floor and the first row of masonry (it is called pre-furnace). It will hide the small gap that is always present in this place. As you can see, a brick oven is not so difficult to lay out with my own hands.

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remoskop.ru

How to properly fold a brick oven

Stove heating is not going to redeem himself at all. Wood-burning brick stoves continue to be built not only by the owners of village houses, but also by owners of large country cottages. Another question is how much it costs to hire a stove-maker to build and buy the necessary materials. The only way to save money is to fold a brick oven with your own hands, having studied the construction technology according to the schemes - the orders presented later in the article. Of course, the construction of a Russian or two-bell stove with a stove bench is beyond the power of a beginner, but you will be able to overcome a heat source of a simple design.

Projects of simple brick ovens

The first thing to consider is to choose a home heater design that can meet your heating needs. We offer 3 options for simple designs, proven in the work of many years of practice:

• channel-type heating stove, the so-called Dutch;
• hob with an oven and a tank connected to water heating or hot water supply;
• Swede - a combined heater with a niche for drying things.

Channel stove - Dutch

Folding the Dutchman shown in the picture on your own is quite simple. It is distinguished by its small size in plan, but it can be placed indefinitely in height, while the internal vertical channels are lengthened. This allows you to heat a two - or three-story house of a small area or a summer house, if you build a Dutch woman with a passage through the ceilings. The channel stove successfully burns firewood of various qualities and satisfactorily heats the premises, although you cannot call it economical.

Reference. The Dutch warms up quickly, and after attenuation it does not give off heat for long, the duration of burning from one bookmark also leaves much to be desired. Her forte- ease of construction and undemanding to fuel.

The plate shown in the photo - convenient option for a country house or a small dwelling in the village, including for use in summer period. A tank installed in the path of hot flue gases is capable of supplying hot water for a heating system or household needs.

Swedish brick ovens combine the advantages of the two previous heaters. In addition, they are economical, give off the accumulated heat for a long time and work equally well on wood and coal. But the masonry of a Swede is unlike a hob, plus more bricks and purchased iron fittings are required.

Swedish oven built between the walls

Drawings and orders of stoves

Oven ordering - Dutch
Sectional diagram of a dutch
The order of laying the hob
Schematic device of the plate Ordering a Swedish oven

Any brick oven transfers heat into the room in two ways: using infrared radiation from hot walls and through heating the air circulating in the room (convection). Hence the conclusion: for effective heating, it is necessary that the heater or at least part of it be in a heated room. Given this requirement, we will give some advice on choosing a place for a building in a rural house and in the country:

1. If you need to heat one big room, then it is better to lay out the stove in the middle, with a slight offset to the side outer wall where the cold comes from.
2. For heating 2-4 adjacent rooms, the structure must be placed in the center of the building, dismantling part interior partitions.
3. Suppose 1-2 small rooms adjoin the hall. There you can carry out water heating with radiators and a circulation pump connected to a furnace heat exchanger or tank.
4. Do not plan to place the heater close to the outer walls. It is pointless to warm them up, part of the heat will simply go outside.
5. hob and the oven should go to the kitchen, and rude to the living room or bedroom.

Advice. When placing the heater in the center of a private house, make sure that the future chimney does not fall into the roof ridge. It is better to move the building by 20-40 cm and bring the pipe through one of the roof slopes.

Partitions and floors made of wood or other combustible building materials that are closer than 500 mm from the furnace body must subsequently be protected with metal sheets. Under them, it is desirable to lay a layer of basalt cardboard. In a stone house, these precautions apply only to the wooden elements of the roof located next to the chimney.

Procurement of materials and components

The main building material from which the stove is built with your own hands is red ceramic brick. It must be of high quality and necessarily full-bodied, stones with voids inside are not used in the furnace business, except perhaps for construction outdoor grills and barbecue.

Advice. Dutch is so undemanding to the quality of materials that it can be made from used red brick. Only upon completion of the masonry will it have to be ennobled, for example, overlaid with tiles or come up with a beautiful tiled decor.

To fold a small Dutch oven, you need to prepare the following materials and accessories:

• red burnt brick - at least 390 pieces;
• grate grate size 25 x 25 cm;
• loading door 25 x 21 cm;
• small doors for cleaning and blowing 14 x 14 cm;
• metal shutter 13 x 13 cm.

Note. As mentioned in the first section, the Dutch can be laid out at any required height. The indicated number of bricks is enough for the construction in a one-story private house.

The list of components and building materials for the hob:

• solid ceramic brick - 190 pieces;
• grate 25 x 5 cm;
• two-burner cast-iron stove measuring 53 x 18 cm with discs;
• fuel chamber door 25 x 21 cm;
• metal tank - boiler with dimensions of 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
• oven 32 x 27 x 40 cm;
• doors for cleaning 13 x 14 cm - 2 pcs.;
• chimney damper;
• steel corner 30 x 30 x 4 mm - 4 m.

To save money, you can take on the manufacture of a tank for heating water - simply weld it from metal with a thickness of 3, and preferably 4 mm. There is another option: instead of a tank, place a coil inside the furnace, welded with your own hands from a steel pipe with a diameter of 25-32 mm. But we must remember that in such a water circuit it is required to organize constant circulation with the help of a pump, otherwise the metal will quickly burn out.

For the construction of a heating and cooking Swedish stove, you will need the same set of materials as for the stove. Just take a larger corner - 50 x 50 mm, buy a steel strip 40 x 4 mm and prepare a refractory (fireclay) brick for laying the firebox. To install fittings, look for soft steel wire with a diameter of up to 2 mm.

Advice on masonry mortar. The preparation of natural clay, on which experienced stove-makers lay bricks, is a long and difficult process. Therefore, beginners are advised to use ready-made clay-sand mixtures for the construction of furnaces, which are commercially available.

Foundation laying

Before folding the oven, it is necessary to prepare solid foundation. The structure is quite heavy, so put it directly on the floors, even flooded cement screed, is unacceptable. The foundation of the stove is a separate structure, not in contact with the base of the building. If you are building a brick heater close to the walls or erecting a corner fireplace, you need to make an indent of at least 150 mm so that there is a minimum clearance of 10 cm between the foundations.

If the floors in the house are filled with a screed, then it is recommended to follow the following step-by-step instructions for installing the furnace foundation:

1. Dismantle the section of the screed and dig a pit that protrudes beyond the dimensions of the furnace by 50 mm in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of subsiding soil.
2. Place a sand cushion 100 mm high and tamp it down. Fill the hole to the top with a rubble stone or broken brick, then fill it with liquid cement mortar.
3. After hardening, lay a waterproofing layer of roofing material and install the formwork protruding above the screed, as shown in the drawing.
4. Prepare concrete and pour foundation slab. For strength, you can lay a reinforcing mesh there.

After 3 weeks (the time of complete hardening of the concrete mixture), lay a sheet of roofing steel on the finished base, and on top - felt impregnated with clay mortar or basalt cardboard. After that, you can start laying the body of the furnace.

Scheme of the base device at wooden floors

To correctly lay the foundation of the furnace under the wooden floors, use the same algorithm, only instead of concrete slab lay out the walls of red brick (you can use it) to the level of the flooring. Fill the void inside with rubble or rubble and concrete from above. Further - a sheet of metal, felt soaked with clay and a solid first row of oven masonry. You can get more information on the topic by watching the video