The author expresses his gratitude and gratitude to the rector of the parish of Blessed Simon Yuryevets in Lyubimovka, Makaryevsky district, Kostroma region, Priest Mikhail (Mityushev) for the technical and informational support provided.
Introduction
From time immemorial, a stove in Russia has played a huge role in the life of every family. With its help, in the autumn-winter time, people dried and warmed their homes. The oven was used for cooking, baking bread and various pies, as well as for drying grain, mushrooms, fruits and berries. She not only warmed and fed, but also healed. The stove, no worse than a bath, cured colds, and the medicinal herbs and roots dried on it strengthened health better than modern vitamin complexes.
And today the stove has not lost its significance. However, along with pleasant moments, it sometimes delivers a lot of trouble. In some cases, troubles are caused by unsuccessful masonry, non-compliance with stove laws. In others, the point is not the unprofessionalism of the stove-maker, but the wrong choice of the type of stove by the owner of the house. Thirdly, in the inability to properly heat it.
Not all problems can be fixed, but many can be prevented! That is what this book is written for. In it you will practically not find common places that are present in a variety of literature on furnace business. In this manual, an attempt is made to draw the attention of readers to those points that play a paramount role in the arrangement of the furnace. Here those furnace secrets are revealed, which could not be read anywhere before.
The construction of the furnace involves capital costs - both financial and time. Therefore, the experiments of "homemade" can be very expensive in every sense of the word. This book outlines the principles for creating economical household stoves, built on knowledge of materials, technologies and the laws of stove business.
We will talk in it about the psychology of the customer and the stove-maker. It's no secret that sometimes distrust of the master leads to the most unfortunate consequences - the firewood from the owner who insisted on his master simply fly out into the chimney! But if he had listened to the words of a professional, the stove would have given him double fuel economy.
So the success of the stove business largely depends on the relationship between the homeowner and the stove maker. But how not to make a mistake and not trust someone who really doesn’t understand anything about ovens? We will also talk about this in the pages of this book.
All about ovens. Secrets of the Master" - a book for the homeowner, novice stove-maker and professional stove-maker. Accordingly, it is divided into three parts (the author asks in advance to excuse him for forced repetitions). In each of them, an attentive reader will find a lot of interesting and useful things for himself - without science and abstruseness, the author will share his many years of experience in creating economical stoves.
Part 1
Homeowner's Quick Reference Guide
Chapter 1
How to properly prepare clay, sand and brick
Procurement of the main building materials is an important stage in the creation of the furnace.
Let's dwell on this in a little more detail.
Clay
It is most convenient to pack fresh clay from the soil in bags (standard 40 kg flour bags) by no more than one third or half. So it will be more convenient to carry it, load and store it. In addition, the vehicle will remain clean and undamaged.
In areas adjacent to the territories of former garages, gas stations and fuel depots, it is absolutely impossible to take clay. When heated, the smell of fuel and lubricants, which is faintly felt in the raw clay, will give such an unbearable waste that the furnace will inevitably have to be shifted again.
It is undesirable to take clay with impurities of the earth, as well as one that lies in thin, heterogeneous layers.
Clay that is close to low river banks and in the water itself usually has a lot of organic matter. It is also not suitable for oven business.
The volume of harvested clay depends on the thickness of the furnace seam and on the properties of the rock itself. But if we rely on the most common medium-fat clay in central Russia, then, taking into account a certain margin, about two buckets of clay should be harvested for every hundred bricks in the masonry.
Sand
River (coastal and even more so bottom) sand is absolutely impossible to take either for kiln masonry or for cement work. Among builders and stove-makers, river sand has gained the most notoriety - so it's better not to tempt fate! The abundance of organic substances will negate the strength of even the highest quality cement, and the furnace mortar will not have sufficient strength.
It is possible to use fine sand with a high percentage of dust impurities in the oven masonry (it is very common in the Volga region) only if there is no other choice. Such sand always significantly reduces the strength of the furnace joint.
Medium-grained (grain size no more than 1 mm) rock (mountain or ravine) sand without dust impurities and foreign fractions is considered the best for furnace and cement work.
The volume of blanks for the furnace mortar: approximately 2.5–3 buckets per hundred bricks in the masonry.
Water
Pond, stagnant, technical water, with impurities of foreign odors (with the exception of hydrogen sulfide), as well as from puddles, should not be used in stove masonry.
Brick
It is almost impossible to buy a new red oven brick of good quality. Therefore, before purchasing bricks, it is imperative to get advice from the furnace master in order to know the exact percentage of brick rejection.
When purchasing ceramic new red brick, it should be borne in mind that its coefficient of thermal expansion may not be suitable for use at elevated temperatures. Under the hammer, such a brick will emit an ideally clear sound, indicating its good density and mechanical strength, but at the first serious temperature loads near the firebox (about 1 meter of the passage of thermal gases), the masonry can “break” (up to 0.5 cm) in oven seams. It will be almost impossible to get rid of this defect without a complete re-laying of a newly folded furnace.
It is possible to use a new ceramic red brick of modern production only on the condition that the lining, laying and calculation of the furnace will be carried out by an experienced furnace master.
In fact, strictly speaking, there is simply no non-ceramic red brick. Any red brick is always ceramic, because it was fired. But the trade lexicon has developed so that only high-quality red brick, which has very smooth and even almost glossy side surfaces, is called ceramic.
Used brick 1
Some books on stove business do not recommend the use of used bricks removed from masonry with lime mortar. This is argued by the fact that such a brick, when the furnace is heated, can emit harmful gas. But experience shows that stoves made of such bricks can be completely trouble-free. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the lime mortars on which the brickwork was made could have a different chemical composition in different places.
Before laying, it must be checked for rejection by an experienced stove-maker. It must first be thoroughly cleaned of old furnace mortar, soot, lime, paint and cement.
Chamotte brick, with all its undoubted advantages, has a significantly lower heat capacity than red. Therefore, if the oven is intended for baking bread (inside the firebox), then it is impossible to line (line) the firebox with fireclay bricks. Bread will not be baked in such an oven.
Chapter 2
How to choose the type of economical oven
The technical disadvantages of conventional ovens are described in sufficient detail in the literature. Dutch women (of course, there are rare exceptions), classic Russians, Russians with a fire and cooking and heating stoves with three, five and seven vertically located wells in one way or another have very serious drawbacks. Their detailed analysis would take a whole chapter, but even a short list can make any householder think about it.
1. The smallest area of intense heat transfer (in this case, the predominant surface area of the furnace, as it was, remains cold - at least swamp, at least not swamp).
2. Uneven heating (one part of the furnace is hot, and the other is warm or completely cold - because of this, cracks in the furnace seams will often and with inexorable constancy).
3. The problem with burning damp firewood.
4. Huge fuel consumption (it exceeds double and sometimes triple the average fuel consumption rate of an engineered stove every year) 2
The characteristic disadvantages of traditional ovens are discussed in more detail and in detail in Chapter 13.
Do not flatter yourself about most modern orders, modeled by computer graphics and printed in tens of thousands of copies. With the rarest exception, these are all the same technically ill-conceived furnaces of the century before last, a conscientious analysis of the shortcomings of which we find in the “Practical Guide” by V. A. Stroganov, published in 1899! Surprisingly, this detailed scientifically based critique of most of the shortcomings of traditional stoves (relevant today) has not found its publisher.
How can a householder who is inexperienced in all these technical and historical subtleties be?
1. Fold one of the bell-type stoves by I. S. Podgorodnikov that has passed the test of time (saving firewood by 2–3 times compared to the consumption of a classic Russian stove).
2. Create some external similarity to a traditional oven with non-traditional “stuffing” (see recommendations in chapters 20, 21 and 29 of this book).
3. Install a boiler with water heating in your house, with the traditionally high efficiency of which (if, of course, the volumes and location of the heat batteries are correctly calculated), the technical requirements for the furnace itself will no longer be of decisive importance, as in direct heating furnaces.
If it is necessary to heat a room with an area of more than 50 m 2, it would be worth thinking about installing water heating. Otherwise, when cold weather sets in, several direct heating stoves will have to be heated daily, which, of course, will be very economically unprofitable.
When choosing an economical type of stove, the homeowner is likely to encounter some purely psychological difficulties. Too many sad stories left in my memory! I would like to shed some light on this side of the issue.
If any master stove-maker promises you to lay a good, well, just a very good stove, the plan of which has matured in his own head, beware of frivolously agreeing to such experiments! Almost 100% you will receive an oven with the lowest technical performance. Require only a technically approved stove to be laid.
You can trust a “home-made” one only in one case: if he has folded stoves of a personal design in the homes of other customers that have proven themselves on the positive side.
In order to create economical ovens of our own design, we must take into account the relationship of more than a dozen laws. Passion for some oven idea, unfortunately, always leads to the saddest consequences. Want to win in one thing - and it will almost inevitably affect the other. One of the furnace laws will certainly not be taken into account. In furnace business, free experiment is less than anywhere else. If you take the trouble and thoroughly study the history of the furnace business, you can come to a surprising conclusion. All the mistakes of modern arrogant designers have long been described and handed over to the technical archive of history!
I ask you to take the following advice on faith without any study of this issue. If you want an economical oven with good technical performance, never, under any circumstances, narrow the following flue cross-sections:
a) before the exit of the smoke channels from the room - in one brick per plate (300 cm 2);
b) the inner diameter of the pipe outdoors - 16 cm 3
In many modern sources, smaller minimum transverse dimensions of smoke channels are given:
a) a brick floor on a die (150 cm 2);
b) pipe diameter - 12–13 cm.
Further, I will reasonably prove that it is simply impossible to build an economical furnace on such cross sections of smoke channels!
Chapter 3
How to properly heat a household stove
The described method of economical firebox applies only to batch stoves using dry or damp firewood. The firebox of a permanent furnace, "potbelly stove", as well as the firebox of stoves with coal, peat, etc. will differ significantly from this one. To avoid information overload, our methodology has been somewhat simplified.
Before you start heating your home stove economically in practice, you need to understand how this factor will affect your personal economy. A properly folded and competently heated household stove can provide two- and sometimes three-fold (annual) savings in financial fuel costs. Only the right air intake into the furnace of a technically well-thought-out furnace can increase the efficiency from 40 to 80%! 4
Complete combustion of the fuel is ensured, firstly, by the high combustion temperature of the fuel. Secondly, sufficient, but not excessive air flow into the furnace furnace. Thirdly, the relatively small size of the furnace.
In order to correctly (more precisely, economically) heat a household stove, it is necessary to represent at least in a simplified form:
a) furnace stages;
b) physical and chemical processes occurring inside the furnace and furnace chimneys;
c) methods of competent regulation of processes inside the furnace at each stage of rendering.
The first stage - from the beginning of the ignition of the fuel to the entry of the furnace into an enhanced combustion mode - we will conditionally call the heating of the furnace.
The second stage is active combustion.
The third stage is the burning out of unburned fuel residues in the furnace.
Heating up the oven lasts from 5 to 30 or more (which is undesirable) minutes. A dry picket fence can go into an intense burning phase even after 2 minutes, and sometimes an hour is not enough for raw firewood.
At the heating stage of the furnace, excess air entering the furnace has almost no effect on the cooling of the chimneys for the simple reason that the temperature inside the chimneys is still not much different from room temperature. The chimneys are not warmed up yet - there is nothing to cool. Therefore, the first stage of combustion does not require special care and art. The main thing is to properly lay the firewood (a very important point: they should fill the furnace as much as possible, but not exceed 30 cm in layer height). Then it is necessary to almost completely open the general thrust valve and give such an influx of air with the blower door so that the flame does not “break off” at the first stage. The sooner the stove enters the active combustion phase, the better!
In the active combustion phase fuel combustion processes significantly change not only their intensity, but also their shape. At this stage, excess oxygen entering the furnace is less dangerous than its lack. I will briefly explain why.
When the phase of active combustion begins, the biochemical bonds in the combustible fuel begin to decompose so intensively that a very significant part of the combustible substances (in the form of gases and volatile tar that did not have time to complete the process of complete chemical decomposition) moves inside the furnace chimneys and can complete the combustion process only there. What will happen if, at the stage of active combustion, under the pretext “so that the heat does not fly into the chimney”, we restrict the access of oxygen to the furnace furnace? And the worst will happen.
1. The gases and gaseous tarry substances that have flown into the chimneys of the furnace simply do not have enough oxygen to complete the process of complete chemical decomposition. In the form of moss-like soot and resinous "scale", they will begin to actively settle on the inner walls of the smoke channels 5
The underburning of chemical products leads to the formation of soot.
2. Constantly repeating processes of active formation of tarry substances and soot on the inner walls of the smoke channels will lead to a gradual narrowing of their cross section. This, little by little, will inevitably weaken the overall draft and significantly degrade the overall performance of the furnace.
3. A gradually growing layer of tar and soot inside the smoke channels will play the role of an effective heat-insulating layer. The heat flows passing inside the furnace will begin to fly out into the chimney much more willingly than to transfer their heat to the inner walls of the chimneys, and from them to the heated room 6
A soot thickness of 1-2 mm already significantly impairs the perception of heat by the inner walls of the furnace.
4. On one sad day, resinous substances and soot accumulated in the furnace can go into an active combustion phase inside the chimney channels. This phenomenon is not frequent, but the risk of a fire in the house at this time becomes extremely high! Anyone who has ever seen it with their own eyes will immediately understand what is at stake.
The stove itself (and, if any, a tin pipe) begins to heat up quickly and strongly. It becomes as impossible to put out the fire raging in it as to extinguish a burning peat bog. The ignited tar and soot only respond to the completely closed dampers of the draft and blower of the furnace with an incredible stench and a slight weakening of the combustion processes. However, it is impossible to completely stop the burning of tar and soot inside the smoke channels.
From what has been said, it follows that the valve of the total draft of the furnace at the entire stage of active combustion must be opened almost completely, and the blower door must not be covered too tightly. And the sooner the stove goes to the last phase of combustion, the better!
Those who have the time and desire to acquire the ability to accurately determine the amount of oxygen entering the furnace furnace can use the following recommendations. Pay attention to the color of the flame:
a) a dark yellow flame and filling the furnace with black smoke means that there is little oxygen, it is necessary to increase the draft in the furnace;
b) light yellow flame - fuel combustion processes are proceeding normally;
c) a bright white flame (more common at the end of the active combustion phase) indicates that the thrust must be reduced until light yellow tongues appear.
V. A. Stroganov gives the following gradation: the initial combustion temperature is 500 ° C, the red color of the flame is 525 ° C, cherry - 800 ° C, light cherry - 1000 ° C, light orange - 1200 ° C, almost white - 1300°C.
Consider the stage of fuel afterburning. Astute readers probably already understood: the sooner this (last) phase of combustion ends, the better. The way it is! The most effective way to save the heat accumulated in the stove (very rarely used) is to collect the unburned coals on a scoop and take them to a specially equipped fireproof place. Immediately after this, it is necessary to completely close the damper of the general draft in the furnace. I will briefly explain why.
The excess air entering during the heating of the furnace could not significantly cool the inner walls of the smoke channels (they had not yet been heated). During the active combustion phase, although this excess was undesirable, it was not of decisive importance, because the furnace continued to actively consume oxygen in the chemical combustion processes. But when the active process of fuel combustion begins to noticeably weaken, and the inner walls of the smoke channels have already heated up to the maximum, even a slight excess of air entering the furnace furnace begins to significantly cool the furnace from the inside. It is at the fuel burnout phase that the greatest losses of heat accumulated by the furnace occur: now it, in the most direct sense of the word, begins to “fly out into the pipe”.
It is the afterburning phase of the fuel that requires special attention and skill - of course, if you have a desire to learn how to really economically heat your stove.
As soon as the firewood begins to no longer burn, namely to burn out, it is necessary to quickly limit the flow of air into the furnace. The less airflow, the better. General rule: if only there was no fumes in the room.
It is also desirable to limit the draft in the furnace not with a common draft valve, but with a blower door. The difference is that by closing the blower door of the furnace, we thereby achieve a significant increase in the speed of air movement on the grate, on which the burning coals lie. If we limit the draft of the furnace with a damper of general draft, and not with a blower door (what would seem to be the difference?), Then we weaken the draft, but on the grate the air velocity (with the blower door ajar) will be very insignificant. This means that the coals will burn on the grate more slowly.
Those who have had a long-term practice of baking bread in the firebox of a household oven know well: if you gape a little during the burning out of the coals and do not close the draft damper in the oven in time, the bread will be underbaked.
Chapter 4
Eight common causes of stove smoke
This chapter will help the owner to become an experienced stove master in his house. Anyone who reads it carefully will probably come to a simple conclusion: stove draft is, in general, not such a secret with seven seals, as it might seem at first. In fact, everything is much simpler! Relatively rare cases in which the stove smokes are discussed in chapter 18 of this book.
In order to clearly understand the reason why your stove smokes, you need to take a closer look at:
a) under what conditions does it occur;
b) gradually or immediately it began to smoke;
c) how long ago it started, etc.
Reason one
If the overall draft of the stove has always been good, but after it has not been heated for two days (or more), it suddenly blows all the smoke into the house, then the draft has turned over inside the chimneys of the stove and in its pipe. The general direction of the airflow changed, and instead of going from the house to the street, the smoke went from the street to the house. Thrust tipping over can occur both on a hot summer day and in twenty-degree frost.
Removing the cause: in a hurry, it is necessary to intensively heat the air inside the chimney. It can be done:
a) through the topmost (closest to the exit from the pipe) cleaning door from inside the room;
b) through a temporarily open hog in the attic;
c) if the above methods are not suitable, lit sheets of newspapers will have to be thrown into the outlet of the pipe - until the draft takes its normal direction.
Having recovered, the draft in the furnace immediately becomes normally active, and in the following days (if the furnace is heated regularly), such problems no longer occur. In the people, this phenomenon is referred to by the not quite technically correct term "air lock". In no case can one blame the master stove-maker who laid down the stove for this. Even the most well-thought-out furnace, under certain conditions, may be subject to overturning of the furnace draft.
Many of us admire the fact that stoves built at the beginning of the 20th century are still in working condition and delight the eye with the perfect simplicity of their external forms, but this simplicity is so attractive that it was able to contain all the best from the world of visible and invisible forms. and exudes a stream of fertile energy. The question arises of how, at that distant time, from local building materials, such successfully operating and perfectly preserved long-lived stoves were obtained. And the answer is very simple, it lies on the surface and therefore is imperceptible, because they do not pay attention to it, but direct their gaze in another - a false direction.
The beauty! And they burn garbage in it.
To convey information to the reader, I will try to create a non-standard flow of text. This will require the ability to use standard words, but through a certain construction of phrases, even what is said then becomes an anchor and is filled with Power.
This Force will knock on the doors of Your Mind, and if the vibrational characteristics coincide, it will fearlessly let it into its near individual space and open its arms to accept the above.
In any profession, there are different levels of knowledge of their subject. This article is intended for those who have achieved the highest professional skills and deep knowledge of the stove topic. Naturally, we will talk from the point of view and from the Height of this Level, that is, from the Level of reference grandmaster norms, which in no way humiliates those who have not reached these heights, but, nevertheless, builds fully functional furnaces, of which the majority are expanses of Russian bakery.
Let's start with the fact that the construction of furnaces was carried out by the masters of this direction, who received their Knowledge and Secrets of this art by inheritance from their ancestors. Only the most worthy, who had mastered the practice of stove-building to perfection, were introduced to the world of the Spirits of those Elements, in whose department and under whose control the stove product was. When the master finished his career, he passed on his Spirit - the Patron to a worthy student, and they began to create together. The furnace was considered a spiritual Creation of the Creator, it was given a Name and a consecration ceremony was performed by a priest. The Creator's Creation, in turn, became the Creator of its Creation, which subdued Fire, gave birth to heat, and baked food. The furnace had its own unique character and temperament of the master-creator, who gave it life in close cooperation with Astra-mental forces, without which it is impossible to fertilize the embryo of the intended creation. Without their participation, the furnace will be a stillborn structure and will not emit the Gracious power, which is necessary where people will be present and food will be prepared. This furnace will have only a form and will be similar to an incubator egg, which does not carry the continuation of life, because it is empty and unfertilized, unlike the village ones, in which there is a clot of life. And it is so strong that when a person becomes ill, the disease is rolled out by this egg, the germ of which winds a web of disease around itself. The egg becomes inedible, and even hungry, homeless dogs disdain it. The oven, built without the patronage of the Spirit, has a passive information capacity, because it contains only the Yin or Yang beginning - it is, in fact, a disabled oven, although it has completed external forms. According to the laws of pair harmony, two incompatible opposite individuals, masters and beings of the world of invisible astral forms, exist peacefully, letting each other into their near intimate space, becoming one, striving for balance, that is, for existence despite changes. That is why, the master, the creator of the furnace creation, stands simultaneously with both feet in both worlds, without losing his path in any of them. Here, not the speed of movement is used, but the elimination of distance - this is a certain space of the zero point of time, where it is motionless, the so-called cosmic hour, during the duration of which Eternity and the expanses of the Universe were created.
If the Russian stove is the Queen of stoves and their recognized Queen, with a calm and peaceful character, then the sauna stove - its opposite is a quick-tempered Tsar and an arrogant King, with a proud and independent disposition, who does not forgive neglect of himself, requires a reverent attitude from us and even worship. In order to get in touch with the Spirit, in whose jurisdiction the sauna stoves are located, one must have the recommendations of the spirits of the lower Level, which are under his control. Furnaces of other directions are subjects and unintelligent children of Russian Spirits and Sauna stoves. When a furnace master builds furnaces under the Astral protection of the Spirit - the Patron, then this product will radiate a huge creative and healing power, similar to praying Icons, or centuries-old Dolmens. As a node of the Force, the furnace emits energy with a wavelength and vibrational characteristics similar to the vibration of living organisms. Being in the Zone of this radiation, a person receives that dose of radiant and healing energy that his body is able to receive and assimilate.
But along the way, the question arises whether it is possible, without the help of a teacher, to break into a parallel world and make contact with the Spirits of the elements. Yes, it is possible, but it is a long process and a difficult path. First you need to master the skill of the Furnace to perfection, learn to feel and understand the nature and whims of the materials used, love your profession and dissolve in it. Only by possessing knowledge of the material world, one can free and loosen its fetters and try to enter the chambers of the Spiritual World. For this it is necessary, Possibility, Ability and Desire, to unite into one whole. This thought form, being condensed by its own kind, turns into a crystal of thought, which is a form of thought. Thought, like energy, is not limited by anything, it is infinite and all-pervading. And although she does not see herself, she will see the result of her own creation, since she will be its creator. Reading and assimilation of information occurs through the enlightenment of the mind - this is a long process and a difficult path, but insight is instantaneous. Everything that was achieved during the period of enlightenment was perceived by the brain at the moment of insight. It is Illumination that gives strength to create unique masterpieces, no matter how complex they are. Because complexity is simplicity itself, laid out in detail. Artists, sculptors, poets also create by the power of illumination. To easily connect your consciousness to the energies of a parallel world, you need to grow a beard and long hair. They serve as antennas and help not to lose direction when communicating with the Spirits of the Elements. Due to long hair, women are more advanced in this range of contacts. As a rule, people associated with art wear a beard and long hair. The ministers of the Church use the same methods to contact the World of Guardian Angels and Spirits. But in order to see the matrix of insight, you need to enter with your eyes closed into the space of Darkness, or pull it on yourself. Its black color is the color of Strength and the King of all colors, it contains all the other colors of the visible spectrum. He is everywhere in everything and in everyone, he fills the universe with himself from the beginning of creation. He was never born and therefore cannot be destroyed, for he is the Messenger of the Anti-material Worlds. Darkness, absorbing Light, draws energy from it, and Light draws energy from Darkness, filling it with Itself. When connecting the Void of the Spheres of Light and Darkness, Information is born, it is not born in the Minds, it passes through them, and the brain is its Intermediary.
The black color is actively used by the ministers of the Church, in monasticism and Islam, it is in the same vibrational field with the space of Darkness and therefore is not rejected by it. The outstanding contemporary sculptor Dashi Namdakov, who is recognized by the civilized world community, whose works are acquired by the leading countries of the world, receives Illumination from a parallel spiritual Space. He spoke about this at one of his exhibitions. This allows him to create unique masterpieces. And, although in ordinary life he is invisible among the lower, but shines like a nugget among the Higher, and the first among the Equals.
The cube of the Kaaba in the great Mecca - the Shrine of Muslims around the world is also black, like the sacred stone of unearthly origin, located in it. The black color gave birth to all other colors, it is their Father and Mother, it contains both male and female principles, but there is no struggle of opposites. This is their cradle, it is from here that they begin to fill the rest of the Worlds.
Now in more detail it is possible to characterize the brick that was used in the construction of furnaces. As a rule, it was made by manual plastic molding, from the sand and clay of the area. Drying and firing were carried out in a handicraft way in small batches. All components of the furnace were born in the mineral kingdom of the area, and therefore their Rh factor characteristics coincided. In the body of the furnace, they worked as one, and there was no rejection of each other. The energy and Spirit of the master who erected the furnace, the Spirit of the mineral kingdom filling the array of the furnace, and the Spirit of the Astro-mental Patron filled the body of the furnace with joint energy, and it became a source of Power. While dismantling the stoves built in 1900 in the near Moscow region, I was delighted with their well-thought-out design and the quality of perfectly preserved bricks. Two years ago, from a similar brick, selected from the destroyed buildings built in 1825, I erected two stoves in the courtyard of the Church of St. Nicholas. This was a forced measure, since the Moscow Patriarchate had no money for building materials. And, although the brick was with deviations in the geometry of shapes and sizes, it was perfectly processed in all directions and successfully withstood two winter cold seasons, with a two-time furnace fire, in the morning and in the evening. The temperature of the walls was from +70 to +90 degrees.
Furnace brick should have a low brand, only such brick was used at that distant time in the construction of furnaces and it proved its right to exist. It had a pronounced porosity, was well processed, and was quite soft. It could easily be given any shape by processing with a hand tool and without injuring the internal array of bricks. But at the same time, it had high mechanical strength, it was used both in the firebox and in the outer walls. With minimal thermal expansion, it had an enviable fire resistance, and due to its high porosity, a long and uniform heat transfer is achieved. Those water vapors that are released during the burning of firewood at the start of ignition, when the temperature is low, are absorbed by the pores of the brick without damaging it. As the temperature rises, the brick releases the accumulated moisture back.
At present, oven bricks, in the vast expanses of Russia, simply do not exist. The brick that we purchase is intended for any construction work, but has nothing to do with stove building, although they call it stove. A modern brick does not contain the energy of Mother Earth, although once, in the form of components, it was in her womb. Passing through a string of electromagnetic fields, during its production, the living substance of his body is destroyed, and the brick becomes dead and empty, it will forever remain a passive Pentacle, although a product made from it may look Magnificent and please the eye with the beauty of its external forms, but this will already be a merit master, the Creator of his Creation!
Archaeologists attribute the appearance of the first stoves for heating a dwelling in Russia to the 9th-10th centuries. At the beginning of the XX century. such an ancient find was discovered in the form of untreated boulders folded into a kind of hearth, which were not held together by any solution.
Historians believe that in this form, a stove for heating a home and cooking existed until the beginning of the 15th century. A step forward in the development of the stove business was the “kurnaya”, that is, the stove, which was heated “blackly”. This means that even the semblance of a pipe for removing smoke did not exist, and it went outside through a hole in the ceiling.
Antonis Goeteeris, CC BY-SA 3.0To arrange such stoves, no special art was required, most likely every owner in those days was "his own stove-maker."
Up until the 17th century, people in Russia were heated "black", until one day someone's "bright head" figured out that the smoke could be directed somehow. At first, they began to install a smoke cap - epancha, which was connected to a hole in the ceiling, above the stove.
Only about half a century later, a through pipe appeared, leading the combustion products of fuel straight to the street. This was the beginning of the design, which still remains almost unchanged and is called the Russian stove.
For the device of such a furnace, you already need to have special knowledge and skills. This is how the craft of the stove-maker arose.
About craft
As a rule, they studied as a stove-maker, as they say, "from under the arm." At first, the student was taken as an apprentice, then he could become an independent master. Often, whole dynasties of stove-makers arose, where skill passed from father to son.
unknown , CC BY-SA 3.0 Outstanding personalities took part in the development of the oven industry. Peter I tried to somehow modernize the stoves, borrowing ideas from abroad. Most likely, he sent our stove-makers there to study.
Mikhail Lomonosov was fond of furnace business and conducted scientific research to improve the scheme of the furnace.
Furnaces were modernized and improved. This is understandable, because neither ordinary people nor kings could do without heating in cold weather.
Hanna Zelenko, CC BY-SA 3.0 Despite the fact that scientists were engaged in the modernization of stoves, the stove-maker's craft in the 18th-19th centuries remained one of the lowest paid, especially in artels.
In 1865, the architect V. I. Sobolshchikov (1813-1872) wrote the book “Stove Mastery. A book that teaches how a good stove master should work and how to make such stoves that will heat and ventilate the room. In his book, he praises the importance of a quality stove-maker:
After reading my instruction on how a stove-maker should work, an honest master will say: you can work like that, but what should you take for such work? This can be answered: do what you should and take what you should.
The furnace master must be kept at home in the same way that a doctor is kept at the family.
The stove-maker's craft became more and more in demand with the development of technical progress, with the construction of factories and plants. We had to arrange special, special ovens. Of course, the design and schemes were developed by specialist architects. But it was impossible to do without good stove-makers.
Here is how the magazine "Advice of Professionals" describes the already modern stove-maker:
What is an approximate portrait of a modern stove-maker, a master of his craft: a little more than middle-aged.
The stove-maker is erudite - he can easily draw an analogy between the furnace "current century" and the "past century".
A professional stove-maker is a competent specialist, a person who has found his calling and knows the price of high-quality, skillful, meaningful and well-done work.
Professional quality
A stove specialist must have a wide range of skills and knowledge:
- stonemason
- tiler plasterer
- carpenter
- digger
- fitter
- concrete worker
- locksmith
- carpenter
And besides:
- understand heat engineering
- be able to mix the solution
- understand the quality of materials
And that's not all. Experienced stove-makers joke that they also need to be psychologists in order to talk with customers, and artists, and economists.
Basic tools
- The pickaxe hammer is the main tool of the stove-setter, it is used for splitting, trimming bricks, and also performs all the functions of a conventional hammer.
- The trowel is another basic tool. Serves for spreading the solution.
- A rubber mallet is used for upsetting and leveling bricks during laying.
- The building level determines the horizontal laying of the furnace walls.
- Roulette - a tool for measuring length-width-height.
In addition - plumb lines, grinders, drills and much more.
Craft in our time
The stove-maker's craft can now be called a profession. You can study at special courses, but there are very few vocational schools that train specialists in this area.
In the late 1990s, stove-makers began to unite in guilds. There is, for example, the Guild of Stove Makers of the Moscow Chamber of Crafts, in St. Petersburg there is a similar organization.
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Helpful information
pecheklad
furnace master
to bake - to trade in the craft of a stove-maker
bakery
chicken hut
“Kurnaya”, that is, heated in black, the stove was the main, and among the peasants, the only heating device in a residential hut. A Russian adobe stove without a chimney and a stove made of stone with clay mortar with your own hands were called chicken stoves. And the hut is a chicken hut. As the name shows, the kiln stove did not allow a large fire to be built in it because of the danger of igniting a wooden hut.
Decrees of Peter I
The tsar forbade in St. Petersburg, in Moscow and in other large cities, the construction of black huts with chicken stoves. He introduced mandatory cleaning of chimneys from soot, the installation of heating stoves with indents from the wall (decree of December 10, 1722) and reduced the cost of making stove tiles. On the initiative of Peter 1, factories began to be built in Moscow, St. Petersburg and other cities for the production of cheap bricks, tiles and stove appliances, and trade in building materials for the construction of a furnace was opened.
Svizyaev I.I.
The architect Sviyazev Ivan Ivanovich (1797-1875) can be considered the central figure in the Russian bakery industry of the 19th century. The son of a serf, in 1815 he was admitted to the Academy of Arts, and in 1821, after receiving the free council of the Academy, he was awarded the title of artist-architect.
Since 1834 holds the position of senior architect of the commission for the construction of the Cathedral of Christ the Savior in Moscow.
Sviyazev I.I. during 50 years of his activity, he mainly studied and tested numerous designs of heating equipment, theoretically substantiated the methods of its design, and also invented many original fireboxes and stoves.
Beliefs
In the old days, mystical properties were attributed to stove-makers, as well as to blacksmiths. They tried to appease them and not quarrel with them, since they really could “plant kikimora” in the house of a miserly owner. That was the name of the doll, a sliver, which embodied the malicious and restless "house demon", well known in the Russian North.
Sometimes, folding the stove, they imperceptibly built a hollow bottle or the neck of a bottle or a squeaker into it. Then, when the stove was burning, sighs and howls were heard in the hut - a clear sign of the presence of a kikimora, which usually seemed to live just behind the stove.
Such tricks, as well as "bylichki" about these and similar intrigues, obviously, are the later rational reinterpretation and reinterpretation of the ancient confidence in the close acquaintance of these "knowledgeable" people with evil spirits.
USSR stove-maker
The practice of developing stoves in the USSR did not provide for compulsory licensing of stove-makers. The stove-makers were trained in vocational schools, vocational schools, trade schools, organizations that train workers at the state expense and have the right to do so, where they were issued a certificate of the established form.
In the USSR, stove-makers, along with specialists in other construction professions, were assigned categories from 1 to 6, and they worked as part of construction, repair and construction organizations and were not licensed. This gave them the right to engage in the furnace business. Furnace business, outside construction organizations, was "folk art", or individual entrepreneurship.
The construction of stoves in the country, in houses or even on the street is not complete without a very important component - brick. Of course, today you can choose any brick by brand and by the type of clay from which it is made. Nevertheless, I can consider and recommend the M-250 brands as the most practical.
Secret number 1. Brick and everything connected with it ...
This brick has a lot of quantitative indicators that will allow you to operate your furnace, without additional repairs, for at least 15 seasons. But at the same time there is one subtlety - certification.
A branded sticker that accompanies the brick, which can be used in court if you find the wrong brand compared to the one declared.
When buying, please note that this brick is not sold in open pallets, it is usually packed in two or even three layers of polyethylene and under it, each pack will have such accompanying paper. Today, some manufacturers can produce bricks of the M-500 or even M-700 brand, but this brick is usually very expensive. The firing of this brick occurs under the influence of a temperature of 1300 - 1500 degrees, and many manufacturers cannot reach it and, as a rule, lower-grade bricks are sold under high-quality brands.
If you work in the warm season, and your brick was stacked, then, as a rule, its humidity is far from ideal and therefore, when working with it, it squeezes water out of the mortar. And it often happens that the mortar used for masonry dries out before it has time to set. This applies in particular to the laying of chimneys and other parts of the structure that are laid on cement mortar. Therefore, before laying, the brick should be “bathed” so that it is saturated with water and does not take water from the solution.
For "bathing" bricks, all the containers that are on your site are suitable. The mistake of many is that they simply water bricks stacked with a watering can, a hose, or simply from a bucket. Usually, the upper rows are saturated according to the norm, and the rest also receive less moisture and then “greedily” absorb it from the solution.
The brick is removed from the water five minutes before laying, the excess moisture leaves, and the internal moisture remains in the capillaries.
Kiln Secret #2. Installation of a coaxial chimney
Today, many builders prefer to use coaxial chimneys to remove smoke from the stove through the roof or with an elbow connection through the wall. This is both more constructively convenient and reduces the total mass of the furnace structure, which means that the foundation work for the furnace can be carried out at a lower cost both in terms of finances and time. But, it is necessary to make a reservation right away, the coaxial chimney should not be used if the stove is used twice a day, that is, the one that heats the room. This pipe, despite all the assurances of the manufacturers, will become completely unusable in five seasons.
The fact is that especially in winter, when the condensate becomes abundant, and the smoke, interacting with the condensate, forms an acidic environment, all this leads to the formation of significant areas of corrosion and the operation of these chimneys becomes dangerous. The main purpose of coaxial chimneys is the removal of smoke from sauna stoves, fireplace complexes and heating boilers running on natural gas and diesel fuel.
The coaxial chimney is sold in the form of separate "elbows" of various lengths, which are joined to each other by means of sealing rings on the body of the chimney. Be sure to use a “head” for the crown of the pipe to prevent rain or snow from getting inside the chimney and it is imperative to use rubber seals to pass the chimney through the roof.
Behind the apparent simplicity of installing a coaxial chimney, there is one construction trick that significantly increases the life of the chimney, preventing the basalt wool from the walls from crumbling down, and makes the attachment to the brick more reliable.
For work we need:
- "Bulgarian" of low power with a cutting wheel for metal;
- pliers;
- a hammer.
Work is carried out only with an assistant and taking into account all safety measures (glasses, gloves and serviceable working tools).
First, we cut off 15-16 cm from the lower edge of the first chimney elbow to expose the inner chimney pipe. Using a sharp knife, remove the basalt wool along the cut line. Then, on the outer surface of the chimney, with a simple pencil, draw a circle removed from the edge of the chimney at a distance equal to the thickness of the wall (from the inner to the outer diameter). We draw stripes directed at an angle of 45 degrees to the base. And then “Bulgarian! We carefully saw through the steel of the chimney along the drawn lines.
The first inclined slots are ready, with this procedure it is very important not to overheat the metal, otherwise it will corrode faster in the future, so the power of the grinder should not exceed 0.8 kW. It is very important that the assistant, and not you, turn the chimney.
After the slots are ready, we proceed to drawing the stripes, which are also directed at an angle of 45 degrees, but tilted in the other direction. And we exactly repeat the process of sawing the metal of the chimney.
It is important that you stop exactly at the end of the line that you have drawn, otherwise you can ruin the chimney. Ideally, you should get isosceles triangles of cuts.
After that, we begin to bend the resulting triangles inward. You start the bend with pliers and end with a hammer, gently bending the triangle to a right angle with the outer layer of the chimney.
Make sure that the seal is bent along with the triangle. Strength is not important here, accuracy is very important.
After bending the last triangle, place the chimney elbow on a horizontal brick and check, using the building level readings, whether the knee lies flat on the base. If there are problems, it is better to fix them at this stage of the work than by fixing the assembled chimney.
In order to better see the brick pressing against the folds, it is better to use one brick, so you will determine exactly what needs to be fixed.
After this procedure, we begin to make cuts on the lower chimney pipe. We make, as the stove-makers say, “chamomile”. The width of one petal should be at least two centimeters, and at least ten centimeters long, and five centimeters will remain so that the row of bricks tightly presses the chimney.
Pay attention to the edges of the cuts, they should not be blue, it indicates that the metal has been overheated. The lower edge of the cuts is uneven, this will interfere with the laying of the chimney.
Then, with the help of pliers and a hammer, we give the petals a perfectly flat surface. This is best done on an anvil and not on the surface of a brick.
After the petals are aligned, check how the chimney will fit on the brick.
Now have your partner hold the knee upright while you simulate the chimney laying situation by laying out another row of masonry.
The chimney should not lie flat on the brick, because you must provide a distance for the thickness of the mortar joint.
Overheated cuts of the iron of the chimney will disable it in less than three to four seasons of operation, it has been tested in practice.
We collect the knees of the chimney on the ground, install them to the position where the knees pass the mounting lock and fix them on the screws and put on special inter-knee clamps.
These are special self-tapping screws for metal, with a wide clamping cover and a gimlet at the end. The people call them "seeds", they very well press the knees of the chimney to each other. Their length should be no more (!) 20 mm.
After that, we install the assembled chimney on a brick crown and fix it first on the roof, and only then we lay out the masonry.
We insert the chimney into the slot of the roof and fix it.
Cut out the desired diameter of the seal.
And we put it on the chimney.
The chimney, protective sheet and seal are all in place.
We attach the chimney to the crown and put the control brick.
Be sure to align the chimney according to the level readings, fix and display the two final rows of masonry.
Two rows of masonry are laid, it remains to put a metal collar on the crown of the brick pipe.
These are the two secrets of furnace craftsmanship today. To be continued.
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