Most people believe that underfloor heating is not necessary for wood flooring. This is mainly due to such advantages of natural material as lightness and good insulating properties. In addition, installation is difficult due to the possible deformation of natural wood due to temperature changes and humidity levels. However, today a solution has already been found to the problem of how to combine boardwalk from modern system floor heating.
Water heated floor without screed is used quite often today. The concrete base, of course, is reliable, but it will not be possible to install it in any room. It is in these cases that an alternative underfloor heating system is used. The installation of such structures is easier than the design of the screed, and in operation they are in no way inferior to it.
Underfloor heating system without screed
If the house is built of timber, the rooms have low ceilings, the implementation of a concrete screed can additionally “capture” the already small space. In addition, laying a concrete base is a laborious and dirty job. In this case ideal solution for you there will be a water heated floor in wooden house with your own hands.
A water floor without a concrete base is installed on a wooden or polystyrene coating. Pipes are laid in special recesses. For better distribution warm air mount special metal plates. The laid pipe system is covered from above with a waterproofing material, and a finishing coating is applied to them.
Piping system for wooden underfloor heating
Advantages of a water heated floor
With a small thickness, such a system saves usable area rooms. Installation of the structure is easy to carry out on any type of floor. In this case, immediately after installation, you can perform surface finishing.
Some installation features
The mechanism of operation of the underfloor heating system involves the transfer of energy from the coolant to the material above it and the finish coating. Then the floor, heating up, gives off heat to the room.
Water floor heating device
If a regular concrete screed is made on the floor, this principle works great. However, in the case where the laid pipes filled with water or ethylene glycol are not surrounded by concrete base, and natural wood, natural material prevents heat transfer. Of course, water heated floors can be mounted on a wooden floor, but such nuances must be taken into account. Wood still does not let all the energy received from heating into the underground, but indoor heating may not be as efficient.
Despite this, the traditional concrete screed- not the best solution problems as the heavy layer of concrete will put pressure on the plank floor. Even if during construction robust design, natural wood may not be able to withstand heavy loads. In addition, often in a wooden house it is required to equip a bathroom or a bathhouse by installing a warm floor in such rooms, and it is not advisable to make a too strong and massive base in such rooms.
Underfloor heating water floor
An equally important factor that makes it difficult to install the system is the presence of a substrate, which must be laid on a wooden floor. At the heart of substrate materials different kinds insulation, which also prevent the free passage of heat. However, everything negative points installations can and should be taken into account and successfully cope with the task. So, if you are interested in how to make a warm water floor on wooden floor, you should be patient and carefully study the special advanced mounting technology.
Other design features
The floor heating system will be lightweight. Heating from the pipeline, the structure transfers heat to the coating in full and indirectly to users. During installation, the substrate should be laid under linoleum flooring, carpet or ceramic tiles if the floor is laid in the bathroom.
The arrangement of such a system will not take much time. When installing, there is no need to wait 28 days for the screed to harden.
Laying a water-heated floor on a wooden base
Providing heating
Usually a water heated floor on wooden base ready for use almost immediately after installation finish coat. Another advantage of this design is that it is easy to repair areas of the coating with small defects and damage. It should be noted that the presence cement screed complicates the restoration process.
Laying method
There is a common technology that you need to master if you are interested in the question of how to make a warm floor in a wooden house. The system of a water-heated floor for wooden floors is mounted by the flooring method.
Pipes with a coolant circulating through them are not laid in a concrete screed, but on logs or a rough base of boards in specially equipped channels.
Installation of a water floor heating system
In order for heat to be accumulated and distributed properly in the channels, special plates with longitudinal recesses for the heating circuit pipeline are strengthened.
Metal plates not only perform the function of heat transfer, but also make the structure more rigid, which eliminates the need for a substrate.
If you do the installation yourself, you can not buy expensive plates, but use 200 micron foil instead. Sometimes when finishing the floor tiles or laying linoleum, the presence of a substrate is desirable. For this you need to purchase GVL sheets or cement particle boards with the smallest insulation values.
We lay pipes for the water floor system
This can be done in two ways. Their differences lie in the design of channels for placing pipes. As a rule, installation technologies based on modules or rails are used.
For the first option, you should buy special ready-made modules from chipboard. They are already cut recesses at a certain distance from each other. These intervals depend on the expected heat transfer of the system.
Modular laying of a water-heated floor
In a set like this modular system, as a rule, everything you need is included: the modules themselves with grooves in them, metal plates, fasteners and pipes. It remains only to assemble the structure in accordance with the scheme attached to the product. However, flooring in a modular way is not cheap. Therefore, many prefer an alternative - the budget rack method.
It does not involve equipping channels in chipboard sheets, and stuffing rails. Planks are cut from board or plywood. The gaps between them should be equal to the thickness of the lath, since in the formed grooves the pipes, the outer diameter of which is 17 mm, must not only fit freely, but also not collapse from the displacement of wood. The width of the guide bars depends on the distance between the pipes in the manufactured structure. So, with the method of laying pipes with a “snake” in increments of 300 millimeters, a 22 mm plank should have a thickness of 278 mm.
Lathing scheme
Mixed method of installation of wooden underfloor heating
Some masters prefer to use another installation method, which is a cross between rack and pinion and modular option. In this way, you can make underfloor heating easily, quickly and without spending a significant amount.
Get started by choosing edged board quarters with channel sizes. Having measured at least seven centimeters from the wall, they make a strip or recess with a cutter so that the pipe is led to the next row. The thickness of the board must exceed the sampling parameters, and the width must be equal to the step during installation. The rough base does not need to be laid, and the planks are attached to the logs using self-tapping screws.
Installation of a heated structure on a light rack base
If you are laying the system on an old wooden floor, you need to carefully inspect the floor before starting work. It is better to raise the floorboards, check the condition of the lag, if necessary, restore or replace worn and damaged structural elements. Sometimes it should be nailed to the beams on the floor wooden bars and additional insulation.
The next step is laying the insulation.
The process of laying thermal insulation
For this, polyethylene is suitable, which is laid out with an overlap. To the perimeter wall floor covering attach damper tape with a width of 5 centimeters. For installation of a warm floor with a water circuit, it is convenient to use the “snake” pipe laying method.
On a pre-drawn plan-scheme of the room, we mark out the pipe connection area and the equipment attachment points for adjusting the system, you also need to draw the position of the guides with the necessary clearances. Usually it is 150 - 300 millimeters. It is better to use corrugated pipes with a diameter of 16 millimeters. Rails are made to measure.
The method of laying pipes "snake"
Then we fix the guides to subfloor using self-tapping screws. The corners of the slats in the pipe bends should be rounded off. A foil with a thickness of at least 50 microns is placed in the prepared grooves. Slightly pressing and smoothly bending around the recess, we fix it. At several points, you can attach the material to the rails with a stapler.
If the pipes in the system are also wrapped with foil, then the heat transfer of the structure can be slightly increased.
We lay the pipes in the formed channels. Metal plates are also used for fastening to the subfloor. After that, they connect to the heating circuit and pressurize the heating system. Having checked normal functioning water floor, you can immediately go to finishing tile or lay a substrate, if necessary. Of the materials for the substrate, it is recommended to use DSP boards that do not contain formaldehyde.
It is not always possible to arrange a concrete screed in an apartment, and even more so in a private house. It is heavy, massive and can cause the collapse of old floors. What then to be, if the idea of insulating a wooden base with a system of water-heated floors was born in your head? After all, it is known that this design must necessarily be “drowned” in concrete. Fortunately for you, there is a technology that allows you to lay a warm floor on a wooden floor, and everyone can make such a “somersault”.
Schematic representation of a water heated floor
Choosing a floor heating system
You are unlikely to be able to take advantage of the full range of options for underfloor heating systems offered on the market, since some of their types require mandatory installation directly into the screed. There are only two options left: water heated floor and film or infrared.
The latter will be ideal for small (up to 30 m²) areas and only in cases where, in addition to floor system heating is planned to be installed and the main source of heat. Advantage film system warm floors in its subtlety, lightness and ease of installation. But even this is not the main thing, but the fact that the load on the wooden base in the case of using infrared mats will be minimal, and the floor level will hardly change.
True, there is one limitation: the temperature of the heated surface should not exceed 27 ° C. You still have a tree under your feet.
The second option for - water system warm floor. The manufacturer recommends laying it directly into a fresh screed, but if you do not have such an opportunity, then you can use a lightweight design, the so-called wooden or flooring system.
The wooden system of a water-heated floor has one property that is very important for old and possibly even slightly rotten floors - it fits on logs, which means it will not exert a significant load on the base. The structure of this design is very simple: a system of pipes is laid between wooden slats, which, in fact, form the base of the floor.
Advantages and disadvantages of a water floor heating system
If you are faced with the question of how to make a warm wooden floor, then pay attention to the system of water heated floors.
Advantages:
- Uniform distribution of heat over the entire surface of the floor
- Normalization of the humidity level in the room
- Energy saving
- Possibility of using the system in the summer to cool the premises
- No noise, vibrations and other unpleasant moments during operation
Disadvantages:
- High risk of leakage
- Possible difficulties during installation
- Reducing the pressure in the water supply system
Methods for laying a water-heated floor on a wooden base
There are two ways to lay a water floor on wooden floors:
- The modular scheme provides for the installation of the entire system into ready-made modules. Inside such sections there is a groove into which they fit. This method is quite fast, because you do not have to spend time installing rails and so on.
Modular underfloor heating system
- The rack laying system is somewhat more complicated than the modular one, but nevertheless, almost everyone can cope with the task. Installation of a water floor in this case is carried out between the rails of chipboard or OSB. The width of such grooves should not be less than 20 mm.
Rack system of water heated floors
Wooden base preparation
First of all, you need to make sure that the wooden base is suitable for installing a warm floor. To do this, you need to conduct a thorough inspection of it. If the boards are intact, do not have rotten areas and do not walk underfoot, then you can safely proceed to the stage of preparatory work, but if:
- a draft is felt under the boards;
- the logs are located at a distance of more than 60 cm from each other (the warm floor provides maximum distance between adjacent lags is in no way less than 60 cm);
- boards have irregularities, then it is better to dismantle such a base and replace it with a new one.
The last point, by the way, is not mandatory. But if you decide to use a laminate as a finish, then the base should have a perfect flat surface(a slight deviation from the norm within 2 mm is allowed). And the point here is not at all that the manufacturer wants it that way, but that when installing a water-heated floor, the use of a substrate is not provided, so it is advisable to immediately level the surface of the base to the maximum.
Subfloor installation
As mentioned above, the distance between the lags should be brought to the standard, that is, up to 60 cm. After you have successfully overcome this stage, it is worth taking up the device of the raised floor, which will eventually bear the weight of the heat insulator. To do this, plywood or a board is nailed to the logs from their lower side, even the one that was already in use.
Lay a layer of vapor barrier over the raised floor, just choose special protective films, and not ordinary polyethylene, since the use of the latter will lead to condensation due to temperature changes. Lay the next layer either mineral wool, or expanded polystyrene, or any other material, since the choice today is huge.
Do not forget about the compensation tape, which is glued around the entire perimeter of the room. Its purpose is to protect the floor from seasonal expansions.
Laying boards
Now you need to put draft boards, on which a water-heated floor will subsequently be mounted. Most important point at this stage, it is correct to make the grooves between the boards, because it is in them that the tubes will pass. The width and height of the groove should be within 20x20.
Laying wooden slats- very milestone water floor heating installation
The ends of the boards should be rounded - in this place the tubes will be rotated 360 degrees and the inversion line should be smooth.
Installation of a warm floor
Lay special metal heat-reflecting plates in the grooves or plain foil- it will play the role of a kind of barrier that prevents the spread of heat in the direction of the earth. Lay metal-plastic tubes with a diameter of 16 mm on top of the foil, and for greater effect, wrap all the tubes in another layer of foil and fasten its edges to the floor with a stapler. To prevent the tubes from accidentally popping out of the grooves, attach small metal plates in several places.
System connection
The penultimate stage of installation is the connection of the heating system. You can choose the easiest way - manual regulation, or use other methods. For example, by connecting with mixing units or using a manifold system. The choice is wide, so you have to weigh the pros and cons of a particular connection system.
Important: connecting a water heated floor to a centralized heating system should be carried out only if you have all the documents confirming the coordination of your actions in all instances. In a private house, everything is much simpler, because, as a rule, it has its own heating unit, which is in no way dependent on public utilities.
In conclusion, it is necessary to pressure test the system for damage or leakage. If you omit this point and immediately go to the flooring of the finish coating, in the future you can get a lot of problems: from swelling of the coating to its soaking and complete delamination.
Choice of finish
Not all floor coverings can be laid on top of the water floor system. The main selection condition is the coefficient of resistance to heat transfer - from 0.15 m 2 K / W and less. It is for this reason that the cork coating will be unsuitable for final finishing. FROM ceramic tiles, and there will be no problems with laminate, but you will have to tinker with parquet. In addition, not all carpet and elastic coatings are suitable for warm water floors - you will have to choose only those that have special designations.
Underfloor heating wooden beams, namely the so-called technology for laying a floor water heating system, can be mounted in 3-4 days. The bulk of the time will be spent on laying the boards, because you will have to carefully measure the width of the grooves. The installation of the structure itself and its connection is a fairly quick process, which means that in a week you and your loved ones will be able to feel the heat emanating from the laminate, linoleum or carpet.
In order to make your home warm, today there are a lot of technologies. Sometimes modern engineering solutions cause mistrust and a lot of controversy. One of these questions: is it possible to make a warm floor on a wooden floor? For many, the installation of an electric or water floor on a wooden base seems difficult, and sometimes even impossible. However, today we will tell you that this is not the case.
This scheme allows you to visually understand the principle of arranging a wooden floor according to the logs for a warm floor using the example of a water heating system
Underfloor heating wooden lags has a great and main advantage - the absence of "wet" work, in particular, a screed device. IN this case boards are the base. At the same time, certain requirements are imposed on them:
- The thickness of the flooring from beech, oak should not exceed 24 mm, from pine or larch - 22 mm;
- If a new flooring is being made, then the boards should first be laid out on a heated floor for several days. This is necessary so that they do not subsequently deform.
Before proceeding with the laying of cable or pipes, it is necessary to prepare the base. There are two options here:
- On existing subfloors. IN old surface cracks and gaps between the boards are sealed (polystyrene, mineral wool);
- From scratch. Logs treated with antiseptics and fire and bioprotection are located 60 cm apart. Slots, mold, rot on the boards are unacceptable.
As you can see, laying underfloor heating in any case requires a rough foundation. The next step is to insulate. heat insulating material fits tightly between the lags, which eliminates the appearance of cold bridges.
After the rough base is prepared, you can start laying underfloor heating.
Electric floors
The system consists of cables, heating mats or foil. When using a cable, the following points should be taken into account:
- The system must be insulated from moisture.
- The temperature of the heated surface must not exceed 27°C. Therefore, it is recommended to use temperature sensors and .
Diagram of a cable underfloor heating device on a wooden base: on top of the insulation laid between the lags, a heat-reflecting substrate and a mounting grid are laid on which the cable is laid On a wooden base, you can do it according to the following instructions:
- Under the logs of the future floor, a foil heat insulator is laid (with the foil up), the layer of which is at least 30 mm.
- A mounting grid is laid on top, on which the cable will then be attached.
- Loops fit electrical cable. Cuts are made in the logs for loops.
- Fits into the cuts heating cable and fixed to the grid with clamps.
- The temperature sensor is placed between the lags, and a temperature control device is mounted on the wall.
If the underfloor heating is functioning correctly, you can start finishing the floor. It is important to remember that there must be at least 30 mm between the finish coating and the cable.
Scheme of the device of an infrared warm floor on a wooden floor along the logs: 1 - logs, 2 - insulation, 3 - IR film, 4 - air gap, 5 - floor base (GVL, OSB, plywood, polyethylene film), 6 - floor covering (laminate , parquet, linoleum, etc.) The most economical and simple option for heating a wooden floor is . Stacking goes like this:
- Thermal insulation materials are laid out on the basis;
- A heating film is fixed on top;
- The film is connected to the network;
- The finish coat is installed.
Construction of a warm floor with a heating film on a wooden base: 1 - floor covering (laminate), 2 - PE film, 3 - IR film, 4 - cork backing, 5 - floor base (plywood, OSB, GVL, etc.), 6 - insulation, 7 - logs Concerning heating mats, then they are placed in a layer of tile adhesive, in other cases their use is not recommended.
"Light" water heated floor
Since the electric underfloor heating consumes a significant amount of electricity, it is not widely used in private housing construction. Most often residents of cottages, since water is a cheap coolant.
The system of water heated floors requires the mandatory presence of a heating boiler, a pump, flow control fittings (faucets, valves, bypasses), as well as control equipment (flow meters, thermostats).
Laying a water floor is possible in two ways, one of which is simple, and the other is more complex, since it includes large quantity elements. Both options require:
- , the laying step of which is 20 cm;
- Thermal insulation. Mineral wool is best because it is natural material. Polymers are not able to withstand permanent exposure to elevated temperatures;
- Rigid base.
For more complex installation additionally needed aluminium foil(preferably a whole sheet), metal grid to strengthen the entire structure, polyethylene pipes high pressure, a thermal sensor in the corrugation, as well as a mechanical or automatic temperature controller. In order to save the resulting heat, heat-reflecting screens are used. With the help of them, heat flows are directed upwards and heat the volume of the room. More about such a system and its installation in the video:
It is not so difficult to make water floors on wooden floors, but some features must be taken into account. In particular, pipes with a diameter of 16 mm are best suited for a piping system, since they are able to provide desired stream coolant in the system. Pipes should be wrapped in foil, this will significantly reduce heat loss.
The maximum length of one circuit is 100 m. However, you should always strive to reduce this indicator: the shorter the circuit length, the more efficient the entire system will work and you will be able to save more heat. How to reduce the length of the contour? To do this, you can divide the room into sections with a maximum area of 40 m2. In addition, each of them must be equipped with an autonomous circuit. Do not forget that water floors do not have to cover the entire surface of the floor.
The main advantage of the flooring system is the small thickness of the entire structure. Do not save on a heating boiler, pump and other auxiliary equipment for a water floor. The efficiency and functioning of the entire system as a whole depends on these elements.
The main difficulty in installing a "water-heated floor" system on wooden floors is its connection to a common heating system. It really requires professional skills and experience. So if you're not sure the best option will turn to the experts for help. It may cost more, but you will not worry about the correct installation of the system and its correct operation. Leave your opinion about the article in the comments or share your experience of installing underfloor heating systems on a wooden base.
Despite the fact that many are confident in the complexity of installing a water-heated floor, choosing the right materials and following the technology it is quite possible to independently produce this design even without construction experience. After studying the materials described below, you will know how to make a warm wooden floor with your own hands in your home.
Types of underfloor heating
To date, there are two types of underfloor heating: water and electric. It is worth considering
that many people prefer a water floor designed to be laid on a wooden base. The electric floor is a conductive system connected with heating mats, which can be replaced with a cable or heating foil (depending on the desired power).
The choice is made in favor of a water floor, since a system of heating pipes with a circulating warm water completely hidden behind the wood flooring.
Even if the wooden floor has been used for a long time, there is no prohibition on installing a warm floor. The main role is played by the finish coating, the characteristics of which can be obtained from the seller in the store or from the manufacturer.
Important points during installation
When doing this kind of work for the first time, it is necessary to prepare theoretically and take into account several points during the process.
Note! The boards on the base must be laid as tightly as possible without any gaps, otherwise they must be laid heat-insulating material. But if the wooden floor is unusable, its dismantling will be the best way out.
Cases when replacement of the base is required:
- lack of insulation and drafts under the floor;
- the step between the lags exceeds the distance of 60 cm;
- if the boards need to be planed. This will be required when a laminate is planned as a finish coating, since according to the technology of its laying, the unevenness on the base should not be more than 2 mm. Because laminate flooring does not require a substrate, the substrate must be carefully prepared.
Floor insulation
Installation of a water floor is carried out on a heat-insulating material.
After laying the logs with a gap of 60 cm, proceed to the device of the raised floor by attaching plywood or used boards to the underside of the log. Insulation protected on both sides waterproofing film, fits between the lags.
Note! Ordinary polyethylene is not suitable as a waterproofing agent, since it contributes to the formation of condensate, and, accordingly, to the moistening of the insulation.
As an insulating material, it is optimal to use mineral wool in slabs.
floor board flooring
First of all, it is necessary to prepare the grooves for laying the pipes of the underfloor heating system.
The boards are stacked in such a way that a groove of 2 * 2 cm remains between them, and from the end part the groove was round shape for pipe bending. On this preparatory work can be considered completed correct execution they should not take more than 12 hours.
Pipe laying instructions
- Roll out the rolled foil over the surface of the longitudinal grooves, and place metal-plastic pipes with a size of 1.6 cm into the grooves on top, wrap the pipes with foil and fix the edges with a stapler.
- To prevent the pipes from slipping out of the groove, secure them with metal plates, placing them across the groove. Lay the pipes in the same way over the entire surface.
This stage is the most difficult. Here you can act in two ways:
Note! In no case should you connect a warm wooden floor to a centralized heating system without a special permit, which is why its installation is carried out mainly in private homes.
After completing the connection work, it is imperative to check the system for leaks and defects, otherwise you will face high costs for reinstalling the underfloor heating and replacing the flooring.
Floor covering
The range of floor coverings is quite wide, but it is worth making a choice taking into account its thermal conductivity. Please note that wood conducts heat much worse than ceramic tiles, so this factor cannot be ignored.
Having settled on a laminate that is gaining more and more popularity, installation should be carried out according to its technology, and for this you will need no more than 3 days without large financial investments.
Thus, you are convinced that the installation of a water-heated floor on a wooden base is quite effective and accessible to everyone with a responsible attitude to this process.
Video
The following video describes in detail the process of installing a warm water floor on a concrete base:
And so the installation of a warm water floor on a wooden base is carried out:
Most people to the idea of the device warm system, based on a wooden floor base, is skeptical. After all, everyone knows that temperature changes trigger deformation processes - and in general, wood-like materials have too low a coefficient of thermal conductivity for such a design to be effective. Nevertheless, more and more new technologies are emerging that allow not only to additionally heat individual rooms, but also to organize quite comfortable basic heating. in an unconventional way. We will talk about how to do it on a wooden floor in a private house in this article.
Basically, the issue of underfloor heating on wooden prefabricated bases arises in individual households. In the apartments, all the floors are concrete, and it may be necessary to apply this technology only if you do not want to remove the old one during the repair. wood flooring or parquet. And in houses, even if the floors of the first floor are arranged in the form of a concrete screed on the ground, the interfloor floors in the vast majority - even in brick houses, constructed from beams.
- This design is a multilayer sandwich, the top of which is the subfloor of the upstairs room. If the house is just being built, heating elements can be laid inside this pie; if it is already in operation, floor heating can be organized without removing the sheeting.
- The layering of the structure can be different and depends both on the structure of the floor as a whole and on the type of flooring that is supposed to be laid at the finish. And note that it does not have to be a board, carpet or some kind of decorative chipboard at all. It may well be ceramics, which, when proper preparation the base fits perfectly on the tree.
- With the same success, heating elements can be mounted under any coating, and the choice of one or another laying technology depends on their variety. It is possible, for example, to provide the traditional wet screed, on which it is very convenient to mount not only ceramic, but also quartz-vinyl tiles. And the point is not so much in convenience, but in the better ability of the solution layer to accumulate and transfer heat.
Note! However, today there are alternative ways improve heat dissipation prefabricated wooden floor. For example, for laying water pipes or cables, they came up with metal plates that warm up to the temperature of the coolant and give off heat well.
The plates have recesses, thanks to which the heating elements do not protrude to the surface and do not interfere with the laying of the finishing floor. Only a thin membrane is laid between them, which helps to remove steam from inner space. This is if the coating itself is vapor-permeable. It is possible to fill over the plates and, only in this case the layer between them must be waterproof.
Are there any advantages in not having a monolithic screed?
If there is a concrete monolith in the floor pie, the principle of the heating effect is more or less clear to everyone. heating elements- be it pipes with hot water, molded electric cable or rolled mats and films - give thermal energy nearby material.
- If this is a stone, which is a concrete screed, then it heats up perfectly and gradually transfers heat to the overlying layer. If it is a tile made of natural or artificial stone(ceramics also belongs to this category), the tandem turns out to be just perfect, since their properties are approximately the same.
- But when the heat source is shrouded in material that does not transfer heat, but insulates it, the efficiency of space heating is significantly reduced. Hence the need arose for the use of metal strips that could accumulate and transmit instead of constructive material.
- However, in some situations, the absence of a screed is even preferable. For example, if under the first floor is located, into which heat should not be supplied. Or in old houses, where, after many years of operation, the beams interfloor overlap may somewhat lose their original strength, and it is undesirable to load them with a rather massive layer of concrete.
On a note! Let's give one more, very significant argument in favor of a prefabricated warm floor, in which there is no screed. Such a floor can be used immediately after installation, while with concrete pouring you must first wait 28 days for strength gain (you can walk, but you can’t supply heat). Moreover, even without a screed at the finish, you can lay any, including tiled flooring.
Ways of dry assembly of a warm floor
The most common way to set the layers of an insulated floor is flooring option. In this case, pipes or other elements for heating are laid either between the logs or on top of the draft boards.
Between lags
In the first case, a special structured substrate is laid between the lags, in the recesses of which it is very convenient to install pipes.
The substrate is best taken with a reflective top layer, but you can use the usual foil insulation. Simply, thanks to the recesses in the special substrate, you do not have to figure out how to fix the pipes in the desired position.
But if necessary, you can always come up with what the photo below convinces us of. Here, between the lags, transverse strips were installed, to which heating elements were fixed with metal clamps. In conclusion, all this is sewn up with sheet material, on top of which a decorative coating is already mounted.
On the rough surface
In the case of laying pipes or cables on top of a rough floor or an old plank floor in the latter, it is necessary to mill the grooves into which the metal plates, which we have already mentioned above, must be inserted. The only problem is that the tool needed for this is unlikely to be at hand, and not everyone can handle it. And to hire a specialist for this work will cost about 65 rubles / m rm.
To do without milling, you can use the method shown in the example below. Here, in order to install galvanized plates, boards were mounted on a wooden base. They were chosen with such a thickness and installed with such a step that would allow the protrusion in the plate to fit perfectly in the gap.
It is doubtful that this method provides any savings, because what kind of milling, what kind of boards one way or another you have to pay. If it is not possible to lay heating elements between the beams - you don’t want to dismantle the old floor, or the low ceiling height does not allow you to install another tier of lag, it is much more convenient and cheaper to use not pipes, but heating films. True, in operation due to the cost of the coolant, such a floor may turn out to be more expensive.
On top of them, you don’t even need to make a screed - just close the system protective film and install laminate. But under roll materials you will have to arrange an intermediate hard layer in the form of plywood or other sheet materials. But here - a double-edged sword.
On a note! Such a layer will become an additional obstacle to heat - reflective elements will not help much either. For greater heating efficiency, a mortar screed is still better. In the case of a film, it can be made very thin, from a self-leveling floor or a self-made mortar without a large filler, which adds more weight to ordinary concrete. Just keep in mind that additives must be present in the fill mixture to make the monolith immune to elevated temperatures.
Unified technology for assembling heated floors according to wooden bases does not exist. Everything must be decided on the basis of specific situation and there are plenty of options. You can come up with your own way of arranging the layers, only in this case you need to correctly compare the ability of a particular material to perceive and transfer heat.
The sequence of work on a wooden base
As already noted, now most developers provide underfloor heating immediately in the process of building a house. Thanks to them, real estate can always be sold more profitably, and the buyer will be sure that he will definitely not freeze in the new house. But people don't always buy finished houses, and try to build them on their own as much as possible. Everyone is well aware that it is cheaper this way, and it is easier to correct your own mistakes than someone else's.
Wooden buildings require special attention, as wood is highly susceptible to shrinkage. This applies not only to the log house, but also to its inner lining, which after a year already becomes not so attractive: cracks appear, from which it blows, and in some places cracks.
Often the owner only then begins to think about the installation of underfloor heating. But after all, there is furniture on them, and disassembling the coating to get to the lag is too time-consuming work. How to get out of the situation?
Analysis of the "flight" in stages
We propose to consider this situation in more detail, taking as a basis a specific example.
Table. Step-by-step instruction by styling.
| Steps, photo |
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