What aluminum foil for a bath is best suited. Sheathing the steam room with foil Construction foil for a bath

Foil for a bath, the price of which is quite acceptable, can be used as reflective high-temperature insulation in those rooms that are operated only at high temperatures: saunas, baths, water heaters and boilers, air conditioning and ventilation systems. In addition, it is used in ceilings and roofs, attics and mansards, floors and walls of buildings. Today, many homeowners are trying to buy bath foil specifically for installing a “warm floor” system with electric and water heating: here the material is laid on a layer of insulation made of polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

Composition:

The foil is made of pure aluminum and has a high level of heat resistance and durability. The material is offered in rolls with an area of ​​10m2 and has an optimal mounting width of 1000mm. The material has an ordered grid of metal atoms, which are located very close to each other, which guarantees gas tightness. The foil is non-toxic, since during the manufacturing process it becomes sterile and subsequently does not become a favorable environment for the reproduction of bacteria.

Technology of use:

The installation of the material is carried out in various ways. When mounting on a wooden crate, a stapler or small nails are used, and if the foil sheets are attached to each other, foil tape is used. In order for heat to be reflected more efficiently, it is necessary to provide an air gap of 3 cm between the sheet of material and the finish coating, which is most often used in saunas and baths. Also in the premises, a heater for a bath with foil can be used.
Do not forget that aluminum conducts current well, therefore, during the installation of electrical wiring in the structures of baths, saunas or residential buildings, complete insulation of electrical equipment is necessary before using foil.

Certification:

The material has all certificates of conformity and fire permits.

Use allows you to warm up the room in the shortest possible time and maintain the desired temperature for a long time. You can make thermal insulation yourself by choosing a suitable layer of foil for the bath. Previously, they were insulated with moss, which gave quite decent thermal insulation. Today, bath foil is used for these purposes. How to choose and effectively use this insulation material, the HouseChief editors will tell.

PHOTO: stroisam2.ru

Read in the article

Why do you need a foil layer for a bath

The main feature of the flexible cladding for a bath with an aluminum layer is heat retention and rapid heating of the room. If you use the foil correctly, it will serve as a mirror shield between the walls of the bath and the infrared radiation emanating from. Sheathing allows you to save the energy effect.

PHOTO: construction.bani.rf

A few years ago, the installation of baths was carried out using simple wooden log cabins and moss. At the same time, it was impossible to achieve the effect of a thermos, the heat evaporated rather quickly, and the bath had to be reheated after a few hours. Today this is not necessary. During construction, high-quality insulation and films are used to isolate steam, so that the room not only heats up faster, but also remains usable for its intended purpose for a long time.

PHOTO: termodom54.rf

The principle of operation of the protective layer

Foil layer - a combined type of room insulation for a bath. One side of such a product is made of foamed polyethylene, and the other side is made of polished foil. It is important to ensure that aluminum is present in the composition, since it achieves retaining and reflective properties.

The main tasks of foil insulation: water-repellent functions, protection of wooden structures from dampness and from the effects of natural factors - low temperature, strong winds.

PHOTO: banyabest.ru

Types of foil layers and their characteristics

Paper or film insulation is very thin and consists of a base layer and aluminum foil. However, other, thicker and denser products are also used for insulation - foil wool.

Such material also contains two layers - one, larger in size - cotton wool, and the second, thin - aluminum foil. Such layers are laid out on the bath floor and walls to protect against moisture and prevent heat leakage.

PHOTO: static-eu.insales.ru

Foil in rolls

Soft foil, designed to keep the high temperature in the bath room, is sold in hardware stores in the form of rolls.

Average characteristics of one roll:

• material thickness - from 0.05 to 0.1 mm;
• roll height - 1 m;
• the area of ​​protective material in one roll is from 6 to 25 m².

The price for one roll starts from 450 rubles.

PHOTO: st5.stblizko.ru

paper base

To keep the heat in the bath room, you can also use kraft paper with a foil layer applied to it. This method gives a good result, but it works for a shorter time, unlike polyethylene and polystyrene foam products.

A paper roll soaks faster if indoors, so it is more efficient to use it in a dressing room or in a rest room.

PHOTO: td-sm35.ru

Before buying paper-foil protection for a bath, you need to bend the edge of the product and look at the fold. If a seam has formed, it is not recommended to take such a product, it will quickly lose its appearance and deteriorate.

Foil layer of expanded polystyrene and polyethylene foam

A film of expanded polystyrene or polyethylene protects the room from moisture much longer, as it does not tear or crack. A film made of polyethylene and polypropylene can even serve as a heater for the outer walls of the bath. It is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and other aggressive natural factors.

PHOTO: vse-postroim-sami.ru

The price of such films is low. Today on sale you can find different options, including those based on cellulose and viscose. The quality layer should be slightly rough to the touch.

Mineral wool in mats and rolls

Several types of mineral wool can be used to insulate a bath, but a material with a protective foil layer is considered the best option. It not only protects the room from moisture, but is also fireproof. However, the temperature limit for operation is 80ºС, so this insulation is not suitable for a Finnish sauna.

PHOTO: st0.isolux.ru

The use of mineral wool allows you to increase the service life of the bath itself due to the presence of a protective foil layer, as well as maintain optimal temperature conditions for a long time, and reduce the cost of heating the room.

Advantages and disadvantages

Foil insulation, like any other material, has a number of pros and cons.

The benefits include:

• environmental friendliness;
• good soundproofing properties;
• absence of hazardous and toxic emissions in the process of heating the material;
• high elasticity, simplified installation.

PHOTO: st0.isolux.ru

Despite the many advantages, foil thermal insulation has some disadvantages:

• over time, the foil is still subject to corrosion;
• in order to avoid ignition of the material, excessive overheating of the room must be avoided;
• the reverse effect of heating is possible, when aluminum, heating up, gives heat first to the room, and then to the street.

PHOTO: stroyfora.ru

Some problems can be avoided by leaving a gap between the inner wall of the bath and the foil. In this case, the aluminum layer will not overheat much and release heat to the other side.

Bath foil manufacturers

In any hardware store you can find several options for films and sheets with mineral wool for warming a bath. In the selection process, attention is paid to what functions the material should perform: corrosion protection, insulation or sound insulation.

PHOTO: reliz-remont.ru

The most popular bath materials

Before buying, you need to study the offers from different manufacturers and choose the appropriate option.

PHOTO: images.ru.prom.st

Mat from the series "Isover Sauna 50"

One of the most popular bath heaters is the Isover mat, which is made in a special oven using mineral wool. The fiberglass in this mat is of very high quality. All layers of foil are additionally reinforced with a mesh with small cells, which allows to extend the service life. The manufacturer, when developing the material, sought to create a protective coating in which the foil would not crack and tear.

PHOTO: images.ru.prom.st

Insulation can be used both as insulation for the internal walls of the building, and for thermal insulation of the sauna. Due to the presence of the aluminum layer, much more heat energy is saved. The material can be used not only for wall insulation, but also for the ceiling.

Benefits of Isover mats:

• low coefficient of thermal conductivity and good thermal protection;
• the mat acts as a vapor barrier;
• soundproofing is also at the highest level;
• mats are made only from safe, low-combustible materials of class G1;
• throughout the entire service life, all functions and characteristics of the material remain unchanged;
• mats of various sizes are available for sale;
• when heated, no toxic substances dangerous to humans and animals are released;
• easy installation with a stapler.

The high quality of the thermal insulation material is confirmed by the quality standards EN 13162.

PHOTO: teplota.guru

Mat from the series "Isover Sauna 50"

Rockwool Lamella MAT

In order to completely sheathe the bath and prevent the penetration of moisture into certain corners, you need to use a coating with a thickness of 50 mm or more. One of the best quality mineral wools on the market is Rockwoll Lamella MAT.

This is foil stone wool made from natural materials. The main feature is that the fibers are located perpendicular to the coating, which allows the material to retain its flexibility and strength for longer.

PHOTO: shop.rockwool.ru

Rockwool Lamella MAT

Knauf Insulation LMF Alur

Mineral wool from Knauf is able to withstand temperatures up to 600ºС when used to protect the walls of the bath. However, it is important to observe the temperature indicator for air - no more than 100ºС.

PHOTO: st34.stpulscen.ru

Knauf Insulation LMF Alur

Ursa M-11 F

The coating is used to insulate walls, maintain the temperature inside the room. Also, Ursa mineral wool with a foil layer has a layer designed for vapor barrier of saunas and baths.

PHOTO: teplotek24.ru

Features of choosing a foil layer

When choosing a material to protect the walls of the bath from high humidity, you need to consider several features. Warming most often occurs due to the presence of a layer of mineral wool, and the foil retains moisture and does not allow heat to pass into the street.

brick layer

Thermal insulation will retain all its properties if it is stuffed onto brickwork, however, several installation features must be taken into account. The foil acts as a screen that keeps heat out through holes in the bricks.

PHOTO: legkovmeste.ru

concrete layer

The bath and sauna are always built of wood, so the concrete layer at the building can only be from below, as a pillow for the entire structure.

A wooden structure is laid out on top of the concrete layer, the cracks in which are first clogged with mineral wool, and then covered with a foil film.

PHOTO: legkovmeste.ru

wood layer

It is easiest to apply insulation on wooden walls. Special recesses are formed where glass wool or foil paper will be laid, after which the entire space is covered with boards.

PHOTO: legkovmeste.ru

PHOTO: legkovmeste.ru

To successfully insulate the bath and protect the tree from exposure to high temperatures and humidity, you need to apply a few simple tips and rules:

1. The most important thing is to make sure at the time of purchase that the base layer is covered with aluminum foil and not a simple foil coating. To do this, you need to study the characteristics of the product on the label and bend the tip of the sheet. There should not be any creases on it.
2. To reduce convection in the gaps between the structures of the bath, it is necessary to use additional rails that are superimposed horizontally.
3. It is not necessary to use the same material for the floor and ceiling. You can combine a dense layer with mineral wool and a thin paper layer with foil.
4. Brick walls are pre-treated with a primer.

PHOTO: a-saun.kiev.ua

PHOTO: images.kz.prom.st

PHOTO: remontik.org

Finally

Foil insulation is the best solution for any bath or sauna. This material is non-toxic and retains heat well in the room, so there is no need to heat the bathhouse several times a day.

What insulation did you choose for your bath? Have you used a combination of several materials for the walls, floor and ceiling?

Ideally, the bath should heat up quickly and retain the resulting heat for a long time. To do this, they try to isolate the walls and ceiling with high quality, blocking all exits outside the steam room to heat flows. The traditional insulating layer has a complex structure, but aluminum foil is almost always its unchanged component. This component is as popular as it is controversial. Philosophical battles, backed up by theory from physics textbooks, have been going on in the forums of bath lovers for more than a year. Some argue that foil is a wonderful heater for a bath, others that it is practically useless as a heat insulator. Where is the truth? Let's try to figure it out.

Aluminum foil: another "divorce" of manufacturers?

Aluminum foil for bath insulation is a thin (on average 30-300 microns) layer of aluminum, which is used unchanged or in combination with kraft paper, fiberglass, roll insulation. The main argument against the use of foil in the bath is that aluminum has a high thermal conductivity.

Based on this, thermal energy can freely pass through the metal layer and be outside the steam room. In fact, it's not quite like that. Firstly, high thermal conductivity will “work” against us only in case of direct contact of the foil with a heated body (for example, with a wooden lining or a blockhouse). Secondly, in addition to thermal conductivity, there are other methods of heat transfer.

Three ways to transfer heat

Heat transfer can be carried out in three different ways in nature:

• thermal conductivity;
• convection;
• infrared radiation.

In the case of foil, it is worth considering only the last method - radiation. The stove in the steam room during kindling begins to intensely emit infrared rays, which a person perceives as heat. Now the fun begins. IR rays, falling on the aluminum foil layer, are not absorbed by it, but are reflected in the opposite direction, that is, back to the steam room. Reminds me of a mirror effect. Therefore, we can say that foil for baths is not a heater in the truest sense of the word, it is more correct to call it a heat reflector. Moreover, it reflects up to 97% of all IR rays.

In addition, the foil is a vapor barrier - a sealed material that does not allow water or steam to pass through. Accordingly, it prevents the heated steam from escaping to the outside and thereby also contributes to the preservation of heat.

Due to all this, the steam room, lined with foil, heats up much faster and does not cool down longer.

The foil can be mounted directly on the walls of the bath or on a layer of insulation (basalt wool, glass wool, etc.). The latter option is more effective and is most often used as a traditional warming "pie" in steam rooms.

The fact is that the foil is not able to reflect all the heat. Part of it, due to the high thermal conductivity of aluminum, passes further. In order for it not to go beyond the steam room, a heat-insulating material is fixed behind the foil layer. High-quality thermal insulation "catches" what the foil missed and sends it back.

This is especially true in frame, brick, concrete baths and saunas. Without good thermal insulation, it is problematic to bring such a bath “to standard”, especially in winter, - the lion's share of the heat flows emanating from the stove will immediately be carried away through the walls to the street. But good Russian log-baths with a real brick oven do not need special thermal insulation, except for caulking.

Covering the bath with foil: how to do it right?

In order for aluminum foil to perform all its functions assigned to it by the manufacturer, you should know how to fix it correctly. In this case, there are some nuances, the failure to comply with which nullifies its heat-reflecting and vapor barrier properties.

The plating process is simplified like this:

1. A frame of wooden planks is attached to the walls of the bath, between which a heater (roll or slab) is laid.
2. Foil is attached to the slats over the insulation. All joints are carefully glued with special adhesive tape - for tightness.
3. The foil is sewn up with lining. It is very important that an air gap of 15-20 mm be maintained between the aluminum surface and the lining. This will not allow the high thermal conductivity of aluminum to fully manifest itself. The heated lining and foil will not come into contact, which means there will be no direct heat transfer (air is a good heat insulator). At the same time, the IR rays reaching the foil will be almost completely reflected back.

Such a warming "pie" using foil is arranged according to the principle of a thermos. Simply put, a thermos is a double-walled flask with a vacuum layer between the walls. A mirror layer is applied to the inner surface of the smaller flask (the one with which the heated liquid is in contact). The vacuum prevents the propagation of heat through thermal conduction, and the mirror layer through infrared radiation. The same processes, only with a lesser degree of intensity, occur in the foil-coated insulating layer. In this case, the role of a mirror reflecting surface is played by the foil, and the role of a vacuum with very low thermal conductivity is played by the material of the heat insulator located behind the foil.

Thus, using foil as part of the insulating layer of the walls and ceiling of the steam room, you can significantly reduce the time of heating the bath, enjoy concentrated steam and heat longer, save the amount of firewood or electricity.

Bath foil: keep warm inside

You built a bathhouse, invested your strength, money, knowledge, dreamed of a procedure that was pleasant and very useful for the human body, and as a result you got a hut with an icy ceiling and so on. There are insulation errors. Those who build such facilities without the involvement of specialists, ignore technology, pay too much attention to the study of opinions about the uselessness of using a particular material, in particular foil, make a serious mistake.

What is the most important thing in a good bath?

A good bath is one that warms up quickly and does not cool down for a long time. If the first task is solved by a high-quality stove, then the insulation system is responsible for the problem of maintaining heat. The material of construction here does not matter much. No matter how you close the cracks and holes, there will still be loopholes for the formation of bridges of cold. Proper insulation should create the effect of a thermos, this function is performed by foil.

Foil for a bath, not in contact with the walls sheathed with clapboard, blockhouse, reflects heat, not allowing it to go beyond the steam room, it works like a mirror. The material, in fact, serves as a heat reflector and not only. Another important function is to ensure the tightness of the room, it does not let water and steam through. The steam, while remaining hot, does not condense, remains indoors, which also contributes to the preservation of heat. The steam room, in the insulation of which there is foil, warms up much faster and accumulates heat.

Such functions are relevant for all other rooms of the bath. It is also important to maintain heat and tightness in the shower, pool, rest room.

Benefits of using

Aluminum foil, GOST 618-73, a rather fragile material that is necessary to create an insulating cake for baths and saunas, is used either in the form of an ordinary aluminum film or in combination with a substrate.

A heat insulator is necessary to increase the efficiency of the bath. The benefits of its use are as follows:

• contributes to the rapid heating of the room;
• retains heat, preventing it from escaping;
• protects walls, a layer of insulation from the damaging effects of moisture and steam;
• protects against the formation of mold, fungus;
• withstands high temperatures and their differences;
• extends the life of the building as a whole.

Ecologically safe foil does not give in to corrosion, is not toxic, is ecologically faultless, meets all sanitary and hygienic requirements.

On a note! The use of foil is useful, the consumption of energy consumption (electricity, firewood) is reduced by at least a third! The service life of the bath is extended twice! The material is inexpensive and easy to install.

The benefits of the application are obvious, it is only important to choose the right material for the steam room and other rooms of the bath, sauna.

Types and characteristics

Conventional roll foil is known to everyone. There are other foil materials, but they are used for thermal insulation of the bath, should be selective. An additional layer in such materials is needed to strengthen, stiffen the aluminum layer. Foil is used for the bath:

• ordinary roll, rolls 10-30m long, 1.2m wide, 30-100µm thick;
• paper-based (kraft foil);
• on fabric (fiberglass);
• on foamed polyethylene (foilgisolon), rolls or sheets 20-110 mm thick.

It should be noted that foil fiberglass has increased fire resistance characteristics, and foil isolone enhances the thermal insulation properties of the room.

On a note! The walls around the oven are sheathed with fiberglass foil. This is the ideal option. The material is able to withstand temperatures up to 250°. The best option for a steam room is foil fiberglass.

Folgisolone, can not be used near the firebox. The polymer will melt with all the ensuing consequences, but it can be mounted on the walls of the steam room, where the shelves are located. This material is good for a shower room, pool, rest room, its only drawback can be considered the price. Those who want to save money can upholster the rest room with ordinary rolled foil or kraft foil, this will be enough.

For baths made of brick and concrete, foil mineral wool is sometimes used. Produced in rolls or plates with a thickness of 8-10 mm, it provides excellent thermal insulation, withstands temperatures up to 125 °. True, the use of this material is not always justified, when overheated, the material releases formaldehydes into the air, the mineral layer can get wet and collapse. In addition, the surfaces around the firebox sheathed with such a heat reflector require additional asbestos insulation.

How to sheathe?

The main condition for installation is overlapping with a grip of 10-20 cm, the joints should be glued with special adhesive tape, then there will be no loopholes for steam, condensate will fall to the floor without penetrating into the insulation layer.

The use of foil in a log bath differs from the technology of insulating a building made of brick and concrete. Log walls should be carefully caulked. If the tree looks aesthetically pleasing, the log house is of high quality and it is not supposed to cover the rooms (except for the steam room) with clapboard, then the use of foil for the walls is not necessary. The ceiling is sheathed with a heat reflector without fail.

On a note! To get the effect of a thermos - a steam room must be sheathed with foil, walls, floor, ceiling.

The order is this:

1. The wall around the stove should be sheathed with thick ordinary foil, the heat will not get behind the wall with the heater.
2. On the ceiling, installation is carried out with a reflective layer down, with an overlap and an allowance of 5-15 cm on the wall.
3. The walls are also sheathed, the overlap on the floor is required.
4. The floor is set up last.

Work with the floor is carried out after the lining is sewn onto the ceiling and walls, the correct installation of which implies the presence of a gap between the frame and the heat reflector layer.

The same procedure for the installation of a foil-coated layer of brick-concrete buildings. With the difference that all rooms (walls, floors and ceilings) are sheathed there, without exception.

On a note! Especially carefully should be upholstered junctions with window and door openings. Nail the foil with adhesive tape, glue it with adhesive tape, checking for the absence of cracks.

In conclusion, a few words about ideal insulation. Foil materials perform the function of a heat reflector, not being a heater, in fact. For high-quality insulation, the installation of a cake is required, the top layer of which is a material for vapor barrier, then directly a heater and only then a layer of foil material. In this form, the bath will be functional, healthy, pleasant for the soul and body.

Insulation of the bath from the inside - scheme

The internal insulation of the bath is one of the most important stages in the arrangement of this building. Without high-quality thermal insulation, the owner will have to spend much more resources on heating the steam room, and the very situation in the bath without properly installed protection will leave much to be desired.

Since ancient times in Russia, moss, felt and even flax have been used to insulate baths, mainly due to the lack of other heaters - vegetable fiber either rots or dries, therefore today it is not used for basic thermal insulation.

The main difference between warming a bathhouse and a similar event in an ordinary house is simple: in the steam room you need to keep the heat for as long as possible, i.e. high temperatures should remain indoors for as long as possible.

Thermal insulation work in the bath can be carried out using a wide variety of materials. For example, an ideal solution is a modern insulation based on stone wool with a foil coating - it does not burn, withstanding temperatures up to 750 degrees, effectively retains heat, does not rot, and is not of interest to rodents.

After reviewing the information below, you will get a complete theoretical understanding of the process of performing the internal insulation of a steam room, as well as study the step-by-step instructions for self-installation of heat-insulating materials.

We warm the bath from the inside: what do we need?

Any construction, repair and finishing activities begin with the preparation of materials, without which the implementation of the planned work will simply be impossible. Pay due attention to the study of the list below: it is better to spend a little time reading and buy everything you need right away than to return to the store and buy more of what you forgot.

insulation

The main component of the list under consideration. The modern market offers the widest range of thermal insulation materials, but not every one of them is suitable for use in a steam room - humidity and temperature can be too tough. For warming the bath, the most commonly used are: expanded clay (floor insulation), materials based on stone wool, and expanded polystyrene.

Important! It is strongly not recommended to use foam plastic for warming the steam room directly - at high temperatures, a material of dubious quality can most likely release substances harmful to human health.

Comparative characteristics of the mentioned materials are given in the following table.

Table. Comparison of popular bath heaters

Evaluation criterion Expanded clay

Structure	Bulk material of natural origin. Presented in the form of granules with a cellular structure.	fibrous structure. The arrangement of fibers is both vertical and horizontal, disordered.	Open cell structure.
moisture permeability	The material does not pass water.	Mineral wool insulation has practically no tendency to absorb moisture.	Moisture permeability is extremely low.
Weight	Easy	Medium-light	Easy
Strength	high	Medium
Compressive strength	high	From low to medium, depending on the specific type of material and manufacturer's technologies.	Medium
Toxicity	The material is safe	No toxic properties	Over time, it begins to release harmful substances
Can be used under high load conditions	Suitable	Depending on the brand of material	not suitable
prone to decay	The material retains its original integrity for a long time	Durable insulation	Has a tendency to break down
UV resistance	Doesn't react to sunlight	Features high UV resistance	Long-term direct contact with sunlight has an extremely negative effect on the performance of the material.

As noted, expanded clay is suitable for warming bath floors. Bulk material allows you to provide the required thermal insulation of both wooden and concrete structures. Mineral wool insulation is optimally suited for insulating both walls and ceilings. The best option, as noted, is a stone wool-based heat-insulating material equipped with an additional foil coating - the key characteristics of such heaters are at a higher level.

In accordance with the current provisions of the technology for carrying out the work in question, the joints of the insulation boards must be glued with foil tape. This will create a sealed surface with the highest possible thermal insulation properties.

The elements of the heat-insulating coating are placed in the cells of a pre-mounted crate, for the assembly of which wooden bars are used. Select the cross section of the bars in accordance with the thickness of the thermal insulation. For example, if you are equipping a 10 cm thermal insulation layer, use bars with a similar thickness or width to assemble the frame.

Choose the distance between the bars 1-2 cm less than the width of the plates or the insulation roll. For bulk materials, the optimal distance between the bars is 45-60 cm.

Fixing the elements of the crate (bars) is carried out using dowels / self-tapping screws (if the surface is wooden) or anchors (if the base is stone). The length of the fasteners is also selected in accordance with the base material: for wood - 2-2.5 cm, for capital structures - from 4 cm.

The specific length of fasteners is determined in accordance with the characteristics of their use. For example, during the installation of the crate, the fasteners must be of such length that high-quality fixation of the timber / profile of the selected section is ensured. The cross section of the beam itself, as well as the profile parameters, are determined in accordance with the thickness of the heat-insulating layer to be equipped.

Additional materials

If the bath is insulated with a material other than foil mineral wool, you will additionally have to purchase a hydro-vapor barrier film.

If a concrete screed is planned to be poured, the work set will increase to include the items listed below:

• reinforcing mesh;
• mixture for pouring the screed or materials for its self-preparation (cement, sand, water);
• lighthouses;
• damper tape;
• polyethylene.

The floors in the bath can be wooden or concrete. The technology for arranging the directly heat-insulating layer does not have any special differences depending on the material for making the floor, except that in the case of a concrete structure, more expanded clay will have to be poured.

The thickness of the backfill is usually determined in accordance with the thickness of the walls. On average, a layer of expanded clay is poured at least 2 times thicker than the walls. If the height of the room allows, the thickness of the backfill can be further increased - this will help increase the efficiency of insulation.

Previously, for greater convenience of work and subsequently more accurate control of the evenness of the backfill, mark the base. To do this, it is enough to divide it with parallel lines into sections up to 1 m wide or along the length of the rule you use.

Important! If you are insulating the floor on the ground, at the very beginning, even before marking, you must do the following:

• carefully tamp the ground inside the base (if the foundation design assumes the presence of “free” soil, for example, in the case of strip supports);
• cover the walls with impregnation for waterproofing;
• fill the soil with a 10-centimeter layer of sand, spill it with water and carefully tamp;
• cover the sand with roofing material with a 15-centimeter overlap on the walls. Lay individual sheets of roofing material also with a 15 cm overlap. For fastening, use waterproof construction tape.

Directly the procedure for warming the floor with expanded clay with illustrations and the necessary explanations is given in the following table.

Table. Bath floor insulation with expanded clay

StageIllustrationRequired explanations

	The film must be stretched so that its edges along the wall are above the floor level. If the base is already covered with roofing material, there is no need to lay the film.
	For example, a profile for drywall is well suited. The guides are set in accordance with the previously applied markings and fixed in a suitable way, for example, screws or nails.
	Set the beacons according to the level. In the future, these accessories will help you fill the most even layer of expanded clay, which will ensure the best quality of further planned work. Determine the installation height of the guides in accordance with the required thickness of the heat-insulating layer. Many developers do without guides, but this is a less convenient and accurate option.
We pour expanded clay		The previously installed guides will help to do this as efficiently as possible.
	For leveling, we use a rule or an ordinary rail of a suitable length.
	For greater convenience of leveling the insulation, we can use various auxiliary devices. For example, in large areas, a rake will come in handy.

The floor is insulated and ready for further development in accordance with the developer's plans. At the discretion of the owner, additional heat-insulating material, for example, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, can be laid on top of expanded clay.

As an example, a diagram of a concrete floor, equipped with expanded clay for thermal insulation, is given.

Video - Floor insulation with expanded clay

Insulation of bath walls and ceiling

Wall insulation schemes will vary somewhat depending on the material of manufacture. Information about this is presented in the following table.

Table. Wall insulation schemes

Production materialScheme

1 - wall, 2 - thermal insulation, 3 - lathing, 4 - sheathing, 5 - ventilation gap.

The sequence of thermal insulation work remains the same for walls made of any materials: if necessary, a hydrovapor barrier film is attached, lathing bars are mounted, insulation is placed in the formed cells, another layer of hydrovapor barrier is fixed on top (if necessary), lathing laths are nailed for finishing sheathing (at the same time they will provide the necessary ventilation gap), the selected finishing material is mounted (usually lining).

The ceiling is insulated in a similar sequence. An example of a ceiling thermal insulation scheme is shown in the following image.

Information regarding the step-by-step insulation of the walls and ceiling of the bath is given in the following table.

Important! Insulation will be carried out with a mineral wool material with a foil layer, which eliminates the need for preliminary fastening of a hydrovapor barrier material to the surface. The order of work is considered on the example of wooden surfaces. For concrete walls and floors, the recommendations are the same, the only thing is that you need to use other fasteners and for greater convenience, wooden guides can be replaced with a metal profile.

Table. The procedure for insulating walls and ceilings in the bath from the inside

Stage of workIllustrationRequired explanations

	Information regarding the elements used to arrange the frame, as well as fasteners for fixing the guides in different cases, was given earlier. The installation step of the guides is selected in accordance with the width of the insulation. As a standard, this is about 60 cm, it can be reduced to 59-59.5 cm so that the heat-insulating elements lie as tightly as possible.
Slab laying rules		We must first put on gloves - the contact of “bare” skin with mineral wool does not deliver the most pleasant sensations. The foil material is laid with foil inside the room - thanks to this, the heat will not only be retained, but also additionally reflected into the steam room.
	The slabs are installed by surprise into the frame and do not require additional mechanical fastening.
Installation of plates on the wall	Installation of plates on the wall	The sequence and recommendations for wall and ceiling insulation are similar. To insulate the partition separating the steam room from the adjacent room, a layer 50 mm thick is usually sufficient.
	The thermal insulation of the outer wall requires a thicker layer - 100-150 mm (in regions with a particularly cold climate - up to 200 mm).
	In order to save money, the insulation can be made two-layer, equipping one layer of ordinary mineral wool, and the second, which will “look” into the room, from a foil-coated material.
	The use of such a heater, as noted, eliminates the need for additional waterproofing materials.
	Having filled the frame with heat-insulating plates, we glue the seams and joints with foil tape.
	A 1-2 cm gap is enough. The outer trim will be attached to the same crate in the future. Important! The order of further installation of the lining depends on the location of the rails: if the rails are fixed vertically, the lining must be fixed horizontally, and vice versa.
	The best material for the interior lining of the bath is lining. The choice of material for the manufacture of the skin is at the discretion of the owner. The fixing of the cladding elements is traditionally performed using screws / self-tapping screws.

Video - Insulation of walls and ceiling from the inside

Now you know everything about how to properly insulate a bath with your own hands using the most optimal heat-insulating materials for this. The information obtained will help you cope with the planned events on your own, eliminating the need to contact third-party masters and saving significantly.

Successful work!

Video - Insulation of the bath from the inside scheme

Lining the bath with clapboard: step by step instructions

After the construction of the bath, questions arise about how to properly sheathe it with clapboard and avoid frequent mistakes. We present useful tips on the choice of material and the method of its installation.

• Mounting methods
• Sheathing instructions

• Preparatory work
• frame
• Insulation
• Lining fastening

Clapboard trim is a solution that is close to ideal. Except for a couple of negative points. The steam now generated by expensive steam generators and furnaces quickly dissipates and the air temperature drops. And it’s not so easy to choose and lay the lining correctly. But for a real Russian owner, nothing is impossible!

The need to finish the bath clapboard

A real Russian bathhouse, which became famous in Russia, is an ordinary steam room in a bare log house without any decoration. This technology contributed to the long-term preservation of steam: heat-intensive massive walls did an excellent job. The log house absorbs moisture well and just as easily gives it away over time.
But such a design has significant disadvantages today. Firstly, logs, which were previously considered the most affordable material, now cost a lot of money. So, to ruin the building in such a merciless way is simply a pity. Secondly, in order to completely heat the mass of wet wood, it will take at least 4–5 hours, which is also not very convenient.
Today's technologies for arranging a bath are significantly different from ancient Russian ones. Now it is much more convenient to finish the walls with clapboard laid on insulation and foil. The consumption of heat energy is reduced, the warm-up time is reduced, the building is kept in a presentable form longer.

Features of choosing lining for a bath

Before sheathing a bath with clapboard, it is necessary to understand the types of material. Not only the appearance of the building, but even the healing effect of visiting it depends on how competent the choice will be. Moreover, the type of wood, and the class, and even its profile matter.

Lining for a bath: the choice of wood

Most manufacturers of building materials use both hardwood and softwood to create lining. Indeed, for different types of premises, various types of lining are relevant. For steam rooms, hardwood material is more suitable than others. And it is better to finish the recreation rooms with coniferous wood.
Among conifers used:

• Larch. Durable material with low thermal conductivity. It has a pleasant appearance, is able to emit an unobtrusive smell of wood when strongly heated.
• Cedar. One of the most beautiful and valuable breeds. Such wood looks expensive and has antiseptic qualities.
• Spruce. Soft and easy to work wood. Spruce lining looks neat and attractive. In terms of strength, it is inferior to larch and oak material, but it has the right to exist due to other positive qualities.
• Pine. The most commonly used lining material. Since such wood is saturated with resins that are released when heated, it is better to lay it in a relaxation room with a lower temperature. Otherwise - high quality, great view, reasonable price.

Popular among hardwoods are:

1. Oak. An expensive breed that has proven itself as a durable and flexible material. A room lined with oak clapboard is less likely to be exposed to rot and mold. When the temperature rises, oak wood releases substances that kill pathogenic bacteria in significant quantities.
2. Aspen. High performance material. Main advantages: ease of processing, presentable appearance, low thermal conductivity.
3. Linden. Wood with a homogeneous structure and a pleasant smell. Linden lining is considered perhaps the best option for interior decoration of the bath. It retains its natural color even under extreme temperature fluctuations.
4. Ash. It is characterized by less strength, but a much better cut in terms of beauty. Moreover, the ash material never cracks and has healing properties.
5. Alder. Wood, which is largely saturated with tannins. Thanks to them, the air in the bath will always be clean and fresh. In addition, unlike oak, alder is easy to process.

On a note! Having successfully combined various types of wooden lining, it will be possible to create the most successful interior and a deep healing effect.

Bath lining classes

If it is easy and simple to determine the type of wood, then choosing a lining of a suitable class is somewhat more difficult. Having bought the cheapest material, it is easy to ruin the entire building, and too expensive does not always justify its cost. In order to avoid trouble due to the presence of chips, knots and other defects in the material, you should especially carefully read the following classification:

• Class "Premium", "Extra", "O". Expensive homogeneous wood without defects.
• Class "A". Material with a homogeneous structure and the presence of 1 knot per 1.5 meters.
• Class "B". Lining, allowing the presence of resin pockets, through cracks, more frequent knots.
• Class "C". Very low quality material. Not suitable for bath sheathing, because it has a lot of defects.

Among the abundance of profile options (“Calm”, “Soft-line”, “Thorn-groove along the length”, etc.), the “Euro” type is very popular. In principle, it is distinguished from the rest by increased quality, which is also reflected in the price. The ergonomics of the lining, width, length and other characteristics are perfectly matched, which allows to reduce material consumption. The Euro profile type is also characterized by the presence of a deeper groove and a ditch for water drainage.

Ways to install lining in the bath

Regardless of the type of installation of the lining, the fastening of the boards is carried out on a frame made of wooden planks.
Regarding fastening methods, there are several different options:

1. Horizontal. In this case, the frame bars are mounted vertically on the wall, and the planks themselves are perpendicular to them. That is, horizontally.
2. Vertical. The method is the opposite of the previous one. The frame slats are installed horizontally, and the lining is attached to them in vertical rows.
3. Diagonal. The frame consists of wooden planks inclined to one side, and the lining, respectively, is mounted with a slope in the opposite direction.

On a note! The ideal mounting option for a bath is vertical or diagonal. In this case, water from evaporation will not accumulate between the planks, but will flow freely. The speed of work and the final appearance of the room directly depend on how convenient the method of attaching the planks is chosen.



There are 4 most common options:

• Through method. Most often used for shelves and seats. Since the self-tapping screw in this case is screwed directly into the bar, a hole remains on the surface, which significantly worsens the appearance of the coating.
• Cleimer fastening. The most convenient and primitive. In this way, it is easiest to make a high-quality aesthetic installation. Since the kleimers are mounted to the frame bars, it is allowed to dismantle the lining without damaging the planks.
• Fastening by direct driving a nail into a tenon. Not suitable for every type of lining. The nail is driven at an angle of 90 degrees into a spike that fits snugly against the crate. There is always a small risk of marriage, but it is insignificant in comparison with the next type.
• Oblique driving of a nail into the sweat. The most difficult way, requiring considerable skills and effort. It is used less often than others, because it often leads to marriage.

Instructions for finishing the bath clapboard with your own hands

If the material was chosen correctly and the installation methods were studied properly, finishing the bath with clapboard will not be difficult. The fast-flowing process is divided into several primitive stages, feasible even for a beginner. First, preparatory work is carried out, then the crate is mounted, insulation and insulation are laid, at the end the strips are attached and covered with protective equipment.

Preparatory work before lining the bath with clapboard

Before finishing with clapboard, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces of walls and ceilings. Deep depressions and bulges should definitely be leveled with plaster. It is equally important to treat all surfaces of the bath with an antifungal agent that saves the building from the appearance of pathogenic fungi. At this stage, it is also worthwhile to carry out all the necessary communications, which will later be hidden under the lining panels. The material itself is brought into the room 2 days before the start of installation, so that it matures and gets used to the climate.
On a note! Since the bath is a building with high humidity, any metal elements must be made of galvanized iron. Otherwise, there is a risk of rapid failure due to rust damage.

Installing the frame under the lining in the bath

To make the crate, wooden bars of different sections are used, depending on the thickness of the insulation. The most commonly used option is a 20x50 bar. At the beginning of the process, places for attaching metal suspensions are determined. As a rule, they are arranged in rows with an interval of 40 cm. The distance between the rows themselves should not be more than 50 cm. The suspensions are mounted on dowels in pre-drilled holes.
The bars of the crate are fixed to finished metal hangers, taking into account the future location of the lining. For vertical mounting of lining, the bars are installed horizontally, and vice versa. Between the partitions of the crate there should be a distance that promotes normal air circulation.

Insulation lining in the bath

The lining of the bath inside the clapboard implies the mandatory presence of thermal insulation and vapor barrier. Insulation is tightly laid between the rows of crates. For a bath, it is better to use foam glass - a material that perfectly copes with soundproofing and heat-insulating functions in a humid environment. But the usual mineral wool is better left for rooms with more stable microclimatic conditions.
Since foam glass has universal properties, the vapor barrier layer can be omitted. For other types of insulation, this step is mandatory. It is better to overlap the vapor barrier strips and secure them with adhesive tape.

Fastening lining in the bath

Installation of lining begins with cutting the strips of the desired length. At the first plank, it is necessary to cut off the spike, then carefully place it with a cut into the corner and fix it. For easy and quick installation, you can use clamps, fixing them on the bar and fixing them on the crate. The new bar is installed with a spike in the groove of the previous one and is lightly tapped with hammers for greater tightness. This algorithm is typical for all subsequent skins.
At the final stage, the finished wall and ceiling coating is treated with waxes or oil compounds to extend the life of the lining. The protective layer should be updated from time to time. During the operation of the premises, it is not recommended to apply various kinds of solvents and abrasive substances to wooden coatings. If over time one of the boards is damaged by any mechanical action, it must be replaced immediately.
For clarity, we suggest watching a video about finishing the bath with a clapboard:

From this point on, the process can be considered complete. As you can see, the installation of lining does not portend any complicated and lengthy stages. Certainly, you will have to make an effort. But knowing how to sheathe a bath with a clapboard in accordance with all the rules, it will be possible to avoid the most stupid and ridiculous mistakes. Author: TutKnow.ru editors

If we talk about insulation, then the most important room in this regard is the steam room. Any, even the most insignificant heat loss in it can reduce all comfort to "no", and therefore it is important to think over every detail of its inner lining and design. But how to properly insulate a steam room in a bathhouse in order to create the effect of a “thermos” - and absolutely safe for health - our article will tell.

Attention to the ceiling of the room

Any warming of the steam room of the bath begins with the surface of the ceiling. For him, you need to take materials twice as thick as for walls - after all, it is there that all the hot air and steam rise. In addition, if the built bath will be used as a real Russian one, that is, with thick, moist steam, it is impossible to insulate the ceiling of the steam room according to the technology, as for saunas, in no case. Indeed, in such a steam room, steam will begin to leave, and there will not be much of it left for bathing procedures.

• Step 1. The ceiling must be covered with roll paper - so that the joints are obtained with a generous overlap.
• Step 2. Now the paper is fixed with 5x5 cm bars, between which insulation materials are mounted.

• Step 3. At this stage, you will already need foil - it is she who will cover the insulator. The main thing is that it has 100% solidity - this is important. And you need to fasten it with a special aluminum adhesive tape, which can be purchased today at any hardware store. And often such a tape is sold immediately with foil for insulation, which is very convenient. True, among such tapes there are both high-quality and low-quality ones. Checking this is quite simple - you need to stick a piece of tape right in the store to a piece of foil and try to tear it off. If it turns out to be ordinary tape, then it will not work.

• Step 4. The extreme sections and all joints must be especially carefully fixed - after all, the foil in the future is just designed to contain steam and reflect heat. Indeed, if moisture penetrates into the insulation for the steam room through some gap on the ceiling, the consequences will be quite unpleasant. Therefore, it is important to check everything well then for tightness. Instead of aluminum foil, it is allowed to use waxed paper and thick cardboard, pre-impregnated with drying oil. But on such a vapor barrier it is necessary to lay out a layer of clay - and only then proceed to the direct insulation of the ceiling.
• Step 5. The foil should be fixed with small bars - preferably 2x3 cm, in order to maintain good air exchange and then mount the decorative finish you like on the bars themselves.

For a frame bath, it is necessary to put insulation on the ceiling and walls, but for a timber and log bath you can do without it. For example, if the bath is made of logs, its ceiling must be sewn up with sufficiently thick boards - at least 6 cm.

If the insulation turns out to be dense enough, it is still possible to make a cement-sand screed over it for strength. If not, lay sheets of fiberboard, or cover it with a windproof film, and lay floor boards on it. But special attention when insulating the ceiling of the steam room should be given to the passage of the chimney - heat should not go through it, and the ceiling should heat up in this area.

Rules and technology for wall insulation

The whole essence of the technology, how to insulate a steam room, is as follows: first the ceiling, then the walls, then the floor. Their thermal insulation is carried out in the same way as for the ceiling - but we must not forget about a well-thought-out ventilation system, without which a bath is not made.

The most proven, convenient and optimal option is the insulation of the walls of the steam room according to the constructor type. At any time, such a structure can be easily disassembled, something replaced or repaired. And it's done like this:

• Step 1. Beacon rails are vertically attached to the walls of the timber. Under them on the floor you need to make marks from pieces of electrical tape. For installation, it is better to take narrow strips - they are much less susceptible to natural deformation processes. Before installation, the wood panels themselves should be treated with a special impregnation, which is designed specifically for the steam room.

• Step 2. Racks from lining are attached to the rails on ordinary self-tapping screws - better than the so-called thermal tree.
• Step 3. On top of these rails, you need to fix the foil - preferably 50-100 microns. The foil itself is an excellent vapor barrier if there are no holes in it and all its joints are well glued with high-quality tape. If this is not seen, the timber will begin to rot, and the insulation will get wet and begin to conduct cold. But, if everything is done absolutely hermetically, no more additional vapor barrier foams will be needed. By the way, you need to fasten the foil to the steam room with a construction stapler - directly to the beam, and then press it with a clapboard. And be sure to leave an air gap between the foil and the lining - at least 1-2 cm.

Only here in a horizontal or vertical way to mount the insulation? Experienced builders say that the most optimal is still the horizontal method, because with it heat losses turn out to be less.

Which wall cladding to choose?

Let's pay more attention to wood materials for sheathing - they should be of low density. Aspen and linden are ideal for this purpose. But the first one, unfortunately, has a significant drawback - it begins to darken over time, although it is considered by the people to be the most healing. And, nevertheless, pine is more practical - when the room warms up, it begins to release resins and the smell throughout the steam room is very pleasant and no less useful.

In any case, it is better to determine the type of sheathing even before insulating the steam room in the bath - after all, each material has its own properties and strength. But, if everything is done using this technology, there will be no draft or condensation in the steam room - only a pleasant aroma and comfort.

Bath sheathing inside: material selection and installation

To date, there are many finishing materials. However, not all of them are suitable for lining the bath from the inside.

In this article, we will look at how to sheathe a bath inside and how to do it yourself?

What material should be chosen for the interior decoration of the bath

The main thing to remember when choosing a material for sheathing:

• the material must be environmentally friendly;
• resistant to moisture and high temperatures;
• have low thermal conductivity.

One of the most suitable materials is wood. Exploring the pros and cons of different types of wood, we decided that the ideal option for cladding a bath inside is a lining made of linden. It has low thermal conductivity, is easy to process, and also releases essential oils that have a beneficial effect on human health. The price for it is not much different from the price of lining from other types of wood.

Linden lining installation

Step 1. Preparation

First you need to prepare the necessary tools and materials during the installation process:

• Jigsaw;
• Screwdriver;
• stapler;
• Level;
• Hammer;
• Self-tapping screws (depending on the size of the bars);
• Kleimers;
• Nails (1.2×20 mm);
• Staples;
• Bars (you need to choose bars, the thickness of which is slightly greater than the thickness of the insulation);
• Insulation (the most suitable option is balsam wool);
• Aluminium foil;
• Aluminum adhesive tape;
• Well, directly lining itself.

Step 2. Lathing

• The installation of the crate should be carried out perpendicular to the position of the lining.
• We start from the ceiling of the bath: we level the bars with a level, if necessary, we make substrates from wood or plywood, fix them with self-tapping screws, set the bars at a distance of 50 - 70 cm.
• We frame the walls in the same way.
• In places of doorways and windows around the perimeter, we attach additional bars.
• Next, we treat the crate with an antiseptic to prevent decay and increase the service life.
• The openings between the bars, with a slight seal, are filled with insulation boards.

Step 3. Warming and vapor barrier

Attention!
In the process of warming the bath, use goggles and a respirator or other means to protect your eyes and face.
In contact with the mucous particles of the insulation cause irritation.

We fasten strips of aluminum foil for a bath horizontally with a stapler, from the bottom up, overlapping the previous strip of each next by 5-10 centimeters. We glue the joints with aluminum tape to prevent moisture from getting under the vapor barrier.

Step 4. Sheathing the walls and ceiling of the bath with clapboard

• We start the installation of the first lining from the corner and continue along the perimeter.
• Using a jigsaw, cut the lining to the desired length.
• We apply the lining and fix it along the entire height with the help of self-tapping screws.

Tip: in order to avoid chips in the lining, drill small holes in the places where you will screw in the screws.

• We insert the kleimer into the groove of the lining and nail it to the crate with nails, as shown in the video in this article.
• We insert the next one into the groove of the installed lining, in order for the lining to go to the end, we put a piece of the lining and hammer along the entire length with a hammer. We also fix it with the help of kleimers to the crate.
• In the same way, we continue the installation of the following lining.
• We install the lining on the ceiling in the same way as we did it on the walls.
• After installing all the lining, we close the corners with wooden skirting boards. To do this, we cut the plinth of the desired length and attach it to the wall panel using small nails.

Step 5. Surface treatment

Despite all the advantages of wood, it also has disadvantages - over time, wood under the influence of moisture undergoes decay, which significantly worsens its appearance and reduces its service life. In order for the lining in the bath to please you with its beauty and durability for a long time, there are many materials to ensure the protection of wood from moisture, insects and other adverse environmental factors.

We will consider several types of wood processing products:

Dye

The most accessible means for processing is paint, but it is ineffective, and its use inside the bath is undesirable, since many types of paints break down and release harmful substances under the influence of high temperatures.

Wood impregnation solutions

Such solutions mainly provide non-complex protection, their action is aimed at some specific protection, for example, there are agents with antiseptic properties, there are also agents for protecting wood from fire.

Special lacquers

In our opinion, the most suitable means is special varnish coatings, since these compounds provide comprehensive protection against insects, cracking and moisture. In addition, with the help of such a composition, it is possible to give the lining different shades without disturbing the natural wood pattern, thereby helping to achieve the desired result in the design of the bath.

Conclusion

So, after you have installed all the cladding elements and decided on the type of protective coating, it remains only to process all the wooden surfaces inside the bath with it. One of the possible results can be seen in the photo. In this article, we looked at how to sheathe a bathhouse inside with a linden clapboard.

Let's start with the fact that many do not know at all whether foil is needed for a bath. The question is relevant for most of the owners of country houses. If you believe the professionals, then the foil must be used when finishing the bath, since a sufficiently high temperature is required inside, which, in addition, must also last a long time. It is for this reason that the ceiling and walls are covered with insulating material that prevents heat energy from escaping outside the room. In almost all cases, the “pie” that is formed on the inside of the bath for the purpose of insulation includes aluminum foil. The latter, in turn, is produced in several versions at once.

Be that as it may, we note that the foil recommended by some people for use in the bath is categorically denied by others, and the dispute between the parties has not subsided for a long time. That is why we have to figure out whether the foil is really so necessary or can we refuse it? In parallel, we will find out what this material is, what it can be, how much it costs approximately and how to properly install it for maximum efficiency of the insulation layer.

And now, having familiarized ourselves with the features and main varieties of the material described in the article, we can begin to consider some popular brands. For the convenience of visitors, the information below is presented in the form of a small summary table.

The price of foil for warming the bath

Table. Popular foil heat insulators for a bath.

Name, photo	Characteristics, description	Average market value, in rubles
1. Annealed foil	Sufficiently soft material, the thickness of which is 100 microns. Sold in rolls of 10 square meters. As for the total length of one roll, it is equal to 10 meters. Corresponds to GOST.	From 1400 rub. (for one roll)
2. "Izover Sauna"	The brand of insulation mentioned above with a thickness of 5 centimeters is also sold in rolls of 12.5 meters in length. The total area of ​​one roll is 15 square meters. It is characterized by the fact that it also has soundproofing properties.	From 2200 rub. (for one roll)
3. "Park MAT ALUCOAT 35"	High-quality Finnish heat insulator, still sold in rolls. The thickness of this material is 3 centimeters, and the length of one roll is only 8 meters. In addition, the total area of ​​one roll of insulation is 7.2 square meters.	1800 rub. (for one roll)
4. Rockwool Sauna Butts	And this is foil mineral wool, which is sold in slabs. The thickness of this material is 5 centimeters, and the dimensions of one plate are 60x100 centimeters (WxD). The total area of ​​one plate is 0.6 square meters.	750 rub. per pack (8 plates)
5. URSA GEO M-11F	High-quality rolled insulation - mineral wool with a foil coating. Characteristically, this bath foil lined with kraft paper. The thickness is 5 centimeters, and the length of one roll is 12.5 meters. The optimum operating temperature is +270 degrees.	2100 rub. (for one roll)

As you can see, the cost of foil varies and depends not only on the variety, but also on the specific manufacturer.

Is the foil layer in the bath really necessary?

As a rule, baths today are insulated with thin foil (thickness varies between 30-300 microns). Tellingly, the aluminum layer can either be applied directly to the heat insulator or kraft paper, or sold separately for later use in tandem with other insulation materials.

Those who are against the use of foil claim that there is no sense in it, since its thermal conductivity is quite high, and therefore it is simply unable to retain heat indoors. Opponents of this method believe that buying / laying a foil heat insulator is just a waste of money. Note that this is partly true, because the use of foil can only be effective if it is installed correctly.

That is why the room, which was decorated with bath foil, warms up faster and retains heat longer. Therefore, it would be quite logical to conclude that it will be more comfortable to bathe in such a bath, while heating costs will noticeably decrease.

The main advantages of bath foil

In view of the operational and climatic features of the bath room, there are a number of requirements that the used aluminum foil must necessarily comply with:

• high moisture and vapor resistance;
• appropriate thermal conductivity;
• fire resistance;
• high reflectivity (from 95 to 98 percent), which is obtained due to the special polishing of the outer layer;
• excellent anti-corrosion properties.

As we have already found out, high vapor barrier characteristics prevent the leakage of heated steam from the room, while it will not accumulate in the coating.

In addition, aluminum foil for a bath has other advantages:

• it does not deform and does not lose its original properties;
• it protects neighboring premises, if any;
• the material is plastic, even if exposed to high temperatures for a long time;
• differs in the increased resistance to chemicals;
• does not emit harmful gases and compounds;
• hygienic, durable;
• resistant to UV radiation;
• extremely easy to install.

Note! If the foil is handled carefully, even the thinnest sheets will not tear and deform. But in any case, it is necessary to purchase material with a small margin (at least 5 percent).

The maximum temperature that the foil can withstand can reach 145 degrees. Thanks to the creation of the so-called thermos effect, the heat inside is retained for about 2.5 hours longer. We also note that the material can be used both for walls and for floors and ceilings (that is, it is universal), and does not need any special treatment with fungicides at all.

What to look for when choosing foil for a bath?

If you intend to purchase the right foil, you must take into account several factors that affect the durability of the material, its ease of installation, and future effectiveness. Consider the main selection criteria in more detail.

Key varieties of foil heat insulators for baths

There are many types of foil, as well as combined insulation in which it is present, and all of them differ not only in cost, but also in various characteristics. Today we will consider only the most common of the materials.

Option #1. Roll foil (no backing)

This material is quite thin, and its strength can hardly be considered high. The thickness of such a heater can reach 0.2 millimeters, while the width varies between 100-150 centimeters. The material is sold, as you might guess from the name, in rolls 5-20 meters long. It is used for mounting on walls over an already existing base heat insulator. It must be fastened with an overlap, and the joints must be glued with metallized adhesive tape to obtain the most sealed reflective coating.

Note! The material can be used at a temperature of no more than +650 degrees, so the steam room, trimmed with foil, will quickly warm up and retain heat for a long time.

In addition, such a foil is resistant to corrosive processes, and does not emit any toxic substances when heated.

Option #2. kraft foil

It is made with a paper base or, preferably, in a three-layer design (paper - foil - PE), also known as "Izolan". The strength is quite high, the material can be laid on top of the timber without the use of an additional heat insulator (provided that the walls are well caulked). The material is environmentally friendly, its thickness can reach 1 centimeter. It can be operated at temperatures not exceeding +100 degrees. The installation requirements are the same as in the previous case, however, it is more convenient to work with such material, since it is more durable and does not wrinkle so much.

Option No3. Folar

In this case, we are talking about a vapor barrier, which can consist of one / two layers of foil material, as well as a reinforcing fiberglass mesh (the cells of the latter have dimensions of 4x4 mm). This kind of reinforcement allows the material to retain all its original characteristics even at temperatures from -60 to +300 degrees! This material is also environmentally friendly, able to withstand considerable loads (including mechanical ones). Produced in several varieties. Sold in rolls 100 cm wide and 50 meters long.

Option number 4. "Folgoizolon"

The next, so to speak, bath foil is foil-coated PE foam. Sold in sheets / rolls, may have different thicknesses. Very durable material that can be mounted without the use of the main insulation. It can be used not only for log walls (as the main heat insulator), but also for concrete / brick walls (as an auxiliary one). The maximum allowable operating temperature is about +125 degrees, dimensions (WxDxT) are 60x120x2x11 centimeters. It is easy to cut the material, as well as to mount it to the crate, but at the same time it does not deform.

Option No5. Mineral wool foil

The last type of foil that we will consider today. It is sold in plates and rolls, the thickness varies between 0.5-10 centimeters. Sizes can be different, and here much depends on the specific manufacturer. Excellent reflectivity - up to 97 percent, maximum allowable temperature - +300 degrees.

Note! There are many types of foil mineral wool, but one of the most popular (at least in Russia) is Izover Sauna, which has all the properties that the specifics of this room require.

Video - Rockwool heat insulators for a bath

Key features of insulation: what you need to know?

Before proceeding directly to the insulation, you should learn about the rules for its implementation, as well as what you should definitely pay attention to. So that the foil takes part in maintaining the required indoor climate, consider the following important points.

• The room must be well ventilated. Otherwise, all heat-insulating layers will be saturated with moisture and lose their original characteristics. The foil material itself will become simply useless.
• Ventilation gaps must remain between the finishing material and the insulation layers.
• Fasten all layers correctly, in accordance with the requirements, also do not forget to seal the joints between the sheets.

Remember that if you do not fulfill at least one of the listed requirements, then, probably, all your efforts will be wasted, and the final thermal and sound insulation properties of the foil will be almost zero.

What should be the thickness of the thermal insulation in the bath?

Here, much depends on the thickness of the walls, as well as on the material from which they are made. So, for brick / concrete walls with a thickness of 25 to 35 centimeters, it is necessary to use a heat insulator with a thickness of 10-15 centimeters. For the same walls, but with a thickness of more than 35 centimeters - within 8-10 centimeters. If we are talking about wooden walls with a thickness of 10-15 centimeters, then the thickness of the heat insulator should be approximately 6-8 centimeters, if 15-20 - then approximately 4-6 centimeters, finally, if over 20 - then about 2-4 centimeters . As you can see, there is nothing complicated here, so we proceed directly to the installation work.

Step-by-step instructions for warming the bath

To begin with, we note that if the steam room is small, then foil in rolls or kraft foil, the thickness of which is at least 0.3 centimeters, will be quite enough. But if the steam room is quite large, then it is better to give preference to materials based on mineral wool. It is also mandatory to think over how the condensate will be discharged: if the ceiling is insulated, then the foil from it must be taken out to the walls, and if the latter are insulated, then to the floor. In this case, the overlap should be approximately 15-20 centimeters, and all joints, we repeat, should be glued with metallized tape.

Note! Still do not forget about the ventilation gap between the insulation layer and the finish (about 1.3-1.8 centimeters). In this case, you will achieve a healthy microclimate in the room.

The installation process itself is not complicated and consists of several simple steps. Let's consider the features of each of them in more detail.

Step one. To begin with, build a crate on the walls, using a beam of 5x5 centimeters for it. As for the pitch of the crate, in this case it depends on the width of the insulation. If it is 60-120 centimeters, then the step, respectively, should be 60 centimeters; for foil, the width of which is 100-150 centimeters, it is 50. Use self-tapping screws of a suitable length to fasten the bars.

step two. Lay insulation material between the battens. Try to do this in such a way that the heat insulator does not go beyond the level of the slats.

Step Three. When the main insulation is installed, lay a foil coating on top of it, without fail placing the latter with a reflective layer inside the room. To seal the joints between the sheets, you can use metallized adhesive tape, however, remember that the glue, being under prolonged exposure to high temperature, softens, which means that the sheets may well disperse, which leads to a violation of the tightness of the entire coating.

It is desirable that bath foil fixed with nails or staples - the latter should be nailed directly to the bars. And if the width of the foil is large enough, then it should be fixed both at the edges and in the center.

Step Four. Sheathe the fixed foil with clapboard, while not forgetting about the air gap 1.5 centimeters thick. This layer is necessary in order to reduce the thermal conductivity of the foil in order to limit the reflection of all the rays that hit the coating back into the room. Obtaining this kind of air "pocket" is possible due to the construction of a wooden crate for lining. For this crate, try to use bars, the thickness of which is within 1-2 centimeters, and for fixing, use all the same self-tapping screws.

Sometimes the crate can be built on top of the insulation layer - in this case, the foil will be stuffed immediately over the entire area of ​​​​the steam room, even on the bars. If so, then there is no special need to create air "pockets", and the lining can be fixed directly on the crate. However, practice shows that the use of combined materials, including a foil layer, is preferable not only in terms of economics, but also because of the significant simplification of all installation work.

Video - Finishing the steam room in the bath

Thanks to the use of foil when finishing the steam room, you can save from 25 to 30 percent on fuel for the stove, in addition, the service life of the entire structure will increase markedly, as you will prevent the development of mold, fungi and various microorganisms that are harmful to health .

Video - How to sheathe a steam room in a bath with foil

Bath ventilation features

As noted earlier, the arrangement of a high-quality ventilation system is necessary for the normal functioning of the heat-insulating cake. This should be taken care of in advance - even before proceeding directly to the insulation. There are several schemes for the location of ventilation holes at once, let's take a brief look at each of them.

First

We are talking about the scheme indicated in the illustration above by the letter "a". This is natural ventilation, the supply vent for it is arranged at the bottom of the wall next to the heater, and the exhaust vent is on top of the opposite one. The option is simple, but its effectiveness leaves much to be desired. For example, some open doors to enhance such ventilation.

Second

Option "b", in which both vents are located on the same wall, and the heater is on the opposite wall. Suitable for baths with one outer wall. A fan is used to reinforce the system (in the air inlet).

Third

As for option "c", it must be implemented even during the construction of the bath, since the air in this case will move under the finishing floor. The location of the ventilation windows is the same as in option No. 1, but the fan should be placed already in the exhaust hole (the one on top). Quite an effective system, it is worth noting.

Fourth

Finally, the “g” scheme is effective only when firing the stove. There is only one hole here - the supply one - and it is located on the wall opposite from the heater.

As a result, we note that the size of the ventilation holes depends on the specific area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. So, for every square meter of the steam room there should be at least 24 square centimeters. That's all, good luck with your work!

High-quality thermal insulation, resistance to the penetration of hot steam, high temperatures, resistance to moisture and external influences - this is foil insulation.

The thin aluminum layer reflects heat, keeping it inside the building. Such characteristics make it possible to use it for mounting the insulation of the walls of baths and saunas.

Bath or sauna buildings require insulation and insulation from external influences. It also requires internal insulation of walls from increased moisture, steam and high temperatures.

A material is selected that is not amenable to such influences - this is a foil insulation for a bath. Construction experts recommend this type of insulation.

Insulation for a bath with foil is called a two-layer. It consists of an external coating with a layer of aluminum foil, which is perfectly polished.

The metal coating reflects heat into the building, keeping it indoors over 95%. This coating repels moisture, steam. The foil layer withstands air heating up to +150°. The indoor temperature rises by 2-4°.

The basis of the insulation consists of foamed air bubbles, which does not allow the conduction and absorption of heat.

Bath Foil Selection Criteria

From the presented insulating heaters, a coating with foil paper is selected. The positive characteristics of the bath foil are also taken into account.

This will require a product that:

• protects against ultraviolet radiation;
• has additional moisture-proof and vapor-protective properties;
• heat-insulating;
• soundproof;
• application on a variety of surfaces, including wood, concrete, brick;
• has dimensional characteristics.

Considering the building material from which the room is built, the thickness of the thermal insulation is selected. When choosing, they are guided by the study of the number of positive reviews, checking quality indicators and certificates.

Attention is also paid to the condition of the packaging, its tightness.

Types of foil and coating features

The walls of the bath or sauna are insulated with aluminum-coated material, which retains the internal heat. For this, some types of protective layer are selected.

Folgoizol

Foamed polyethylene is the basis for a protective layer called folgoizol. Its thickness can be made according to the customer's requirement from 100 µm to 200 µm.

The material can be rolled into soft rolls or hard plates. The thickness of the insulated sheet is from 2 to 11 cm, the length is 25, 30 m and the width is 1 or 1.2 m.

Based on polystyrene, rigid plates have a thickness of 2 to 10 cm, size 60x120 cm. This type of insulation is used for application to the wooden walls of a log cabin, or to walls sewn up with clapboard.

The material does not ignite, at high temperatures it does not emit toxins. Environmental indicators allow the use of folgoizol in the food industry.

Protective aluminum layer, does not give in to corrosion. Withstands temperatures up to +150 °. The operational period in comfortable conditions is more than 20 years.

kraft foil

This type of insulation consists of three layers: a paper base (kraft paper), aluminum foil, and polyethylene between them. It performs the function of an additional water-repellent component and serves as an adhesive connector.

This material perfectly protects the insulation from steam and moisture. It is used for isolation of internal surfaces of baths and saunas. Without releasing toxins under the influence of high temperature up to +120°. The joints are connected with aluminum tape.

Kraft - aluminum coated foil is available in two sizes:

• 25 m long with a width of 1.2 m;
• canvas 15 m of the same width.

Paper-based foil for a bath is not subject to fire, reflects ultraviolet radiation well, and maintains the surface tightness.

Folar

Aluminum layer, glass mesh and polyolefin film glued together with polyurethane adhesive. A three-layer thick insulator is a folar.

The fiberglass mesh does not allow it to deform under the influence of high temperatures up to +150 °, but retains high quality characteristics. Also, the material is environmentally friendly.

Foiled mineral wool in soft rolls

A popular thermal insulation product on the Russian market is mineral wool rolls with a foil coating. Thermal insulation protects the wooden structures of the bath from the influence of steam, high moisture.

High thermal insulation rates retain heat by 95%. Due to the protective base, the insulation belongs to the group of low flammable.

The length of the canvas in a roll is 12.5 m, the width is 1.2 m and the thickness is 50 mm. The insulation is resistant to infection by mold fungi, damage by insect pests.

Performs the function of soundproofing. Light weight material is used in any frame structures.

Foiled mineral wool in the form of rigid mats

In the form of rigid mats, foil layers of expanded polystyrene are used. It is used to cover the floor with water heating.

The sanded surface shield reflects heat upwards from the heating pipes. The applied marking helps in the installation of the heating system.

Foil in rolls

Foil for a sauna on a soft basis is used to maintain the thermal regime of the room, it is fixed under the lining.

The joints are connected with a special adhesive tape. The length of the canvas in a roll is 31 m ± 0.25 m, width 1.25 m, with a foil of 7 microns thick, cardboard density 50 g / cm³.

The thickness of the layer has a high thermal conductivity. Used as an isolated layer in steam rooms, applied over insulation.

Correct installation

Thick foil insulates the walls of the room from the increased influence of moisture and high temperatures.

For work you will need:

• foil insulation;
• stapler;
• hammer, nails with wide caps;
• metallic adhesive tape.

The main error in fixing the material is the incorrect location of the reflection layer. The shiny surface of the sheet is directed inside the building, paper to the wall. The joints are never overlapped, glued together with aluminum tape. The canvases are fixed with a construction stapler.

To fix the insulator, which has an adhesive base, additionally glue it with a spot of rubber glue. After laying and gluing the sheets, the coating is fixed with a wooden crate.

Bath room ventilation

Before warming the steam room, a ventilation system is designed. To ventilate the premises, natural or forced systems are used.

• Ventilation is arranged with one lower hole, opposite the chimney stove, arranged on the wall. The heated steam rises and cools. It mixes with the incoming fresh flow from the inlet window and is drawn out by the blower system of the stove.
• The heating furnace can be installed below the level of the floor covering, so that the blowing system is in the gap between the floor and the insulation. Entrance windows are located at the top of the basement and in the bath flooring. The air passes through the underground span, into the steam room and is drawn into the blower system of the stove.
• The supply window is mounted at the bottom of the steam room next to the heating system. To prevent drafts, an exhaust window is arranged at the top behind the partition. The natural system is equipped with a device that regulates the flow of air.
• The use of such ventilation does not deliver the expected effect because the air upon admission quickly heats up, rises and is drawn out. For an additional influx of fresh air, the doors open, which is unacceptable when taking the procedure.
• You can install ventilation on one end wall, opposite the heating system. The incoming air flow is further enhanced by a fan, such ventilation is called forced.
• For effective ventilation, windows are placed in opposite lower planes. The exhaust ventilation window is additionally equipped with a fan. The heated air after entering the room rises to the ceiling, cools down and is drawn out by the fan.

Three airflow holes are provided for efficient air exchange:

• one window below, near the stove;
• another window in the floor, where there is a gap between the floor of the room and the insulation;
• the third hole on the opposite wall from the stove in the upper part.

A device for forced ventilation is installed in the upper window. The area of ​​the window is calculated based on the area of ​​the bath room: for 1m² - the volume is 24cm².

Only properly installed ventilation of the room will extend the time of operation of the sauna room.

The thickness of the walls and the applied insulation

The insulating effect is obtained by the correct use of paper-based foil, taking into account its thickness. This table is used to determine:

Wall composition	Wall thickness, mm	Material thickness, mm
Concrete	350-370	80-100
Brick	250-350	100-150
Wooden frame	100-150	60-80
Wooden frame	150-200	40-60
Wooden frame	From 200	up to 40

This calculation involves the development of insulation of the walls of baths and saunas. The reflective aluminum layer is mounted only inside the room.

Wall insulation using foil insulation

Thermal insulation must be resistant to hot air with an average temperature of +100°. The environmental friendliness of the coating under the influence of thermal loads is taken into account. Hot steam permeability is below 0.02 g/m².

The building material used in the construction of the walls of the bath affects the choice of reinforced fabric, the installation of insulation and the thickness of the covering layer.

Insulation of a bath from a wooden log house

Before finishing work, the building must shrink. The walls of the log house are carefully caulked on both sides before insulation.

The coating is laid and fixed with brackets over the entire surface of the wall without gaps and gaps. Damage should be sealed with aluminum tape. The joints of the insulation are also glued to achieve tightness.

Laths 30x50 mm thick are fixed on top of the foil paper. They are fixed with a board finish. The thickness of the rail creates the effect of ventilation under it.

Insulation of a bath made of brick and concrete

Walls made of brick, concrete or foam blocks differ in the order of installation work.

• The first step is the marking and calculation of the crate on the walls. The bars are selected according to the thickness of the insulation layer, since it is inserted "flush". The distance between the bars is equal to the size of the insulation sheet. Ventilation windows are sheathed for ease of fastening the foil. The bars are mounted in a vertical position.
• Aluminum foil for the bath is fixed on the surface. The joints are sealed with metalized tape, additionally fixed with staples. The foil is carefully fixed on the ventilation windows.
• Insulating material with foil is fixed with horizontal bars. Sheathing is stuffed over the bars. The gap created by the thickness of the bars will serve as ventilation for air and steam. The foil also protects the insulation and crate from moisture.

Reliability and long-term use of foil insulating materials are important qualities. Please check the warranty periods before purchasing.

Also ask for information on the operation of this insulation, according to customer reviews. Only such an analysis provides an opportunity to choose a worthy insulating