Building insulation materials - which ones to choose for your home? Thermal insulation materials types and properties Insulating materials for walls and floors

Among the variety of materials for home insulation, choosing the right option can be quite difficult. Each of them is often divided into several species with unique characteristics inherent in it. A comparative analysis can take a long time, so an idea of ​​​​the general properties of a particular insulation will help, if not finally make a choice, then at least tell you in which direction to move. The article will focus on building thermal insulation materials.

Thermal insulation materials types and properties

Styrofoam

One of the most popular thermal insulation materials for walls is foam. It belongs to the category of inexpensive heaters and firmly occupies a leading position in it. I must say that this is completely justified. Its effectiveness is confirmed by a sufficient number of buildings, both residential and industrial.

So, among its positive characteristics, it stands out:

• price. Production costs are minimal. Material consumption (in comparison with the popular mineral wool) is one and a half times less;
• ease of installation. Styrofoam will not require the construction of crates and guides. It is mounted on the wall by gluing;
• versatility. Properly selected type of insulation will create a reliable heat-shielding barrier of the floor, facade, walls, ceilings between floors, roofs, ceilings.

It effectively copes with the protection from the cold of the inhabitants of frame houses, it is laid inside hollow brick walls.

It is most convenient to consider indicators depending on the classification in the table. The division is based on such an indicator as density.

Characteristics	Styrofoam grades				Notes
	PSB S 50	PSB S 35	PSB S 25	PSB S 15
Density (kg/m³)	35	25	15	8	Types PS - 4, PS - 1 have an increased density
Fracture resistance (MPa)	0,30	0,25	0,018	0,06
Compressive strength (MPa)	0,16	0,16	0,08	0,04
Moisture absorption capacity (%)	1	2	3	4	When fully immersed for a period of 24 hours
Thermal conductivity (W/mk)	0,041	0,037	0,039	0,043
Self-extinguishing time (sec.) / flammability class	3	1	1	4	Provided there is no direct contact with an open flame Normally combustible
Water vapor permeability (mg)	0,05	0,05	0,05	0,05

All types described can be used at temperatures from -60 to +80°C.

PS class material is produced using pressing, which gives it an increased density (from 100 to 600 kg / m³). It is successfully used as a cement floor insulation and where significant loads are expected on the base. The remaining technical characteristics generally coincide with the above data for other types of foam.

Of course, in some numbers and coefficients, the foam has discrepancies, for example, with more modern expanded polystyrene or penofol, but the difference is so insignificant that it will be absolutely not noticeable to the residents of the house.

Therefore, the strengths of polystyrene are rightfully considered:

• a small coefficient of thermal conductivity, which allows you to save heat in buildings made of any type of material from brick to gas silicate blocks;

• the structure of the cells of the foam is closed, so it absorbs liquid extremely poorly. For a heater, this is an extremely important indicator, because when water is collected, it loses its heat-saving properties. Basements, basements that have direct contact (or the threat of such) with groundwater are successfully insulated with foam;
• soundproofing comes as a nice addition to the function of reducing heat loss. The air hidden in the sealed cells of the material successfully dampens even the most intense sound waves transmitted in space. In order to create a barrier to impact noise, foam alone cannot be dispensed with;
• resistance to alcohols, alkaline and saline solutions, water-based paints in this material is “developed” at a high level. In addition, it is not chosen as a worthy habitat for fungi and mold. It is worth noting that rodents, on the contrary, are very fond of polystyrene and often prefer to settle in it. Fighting them by any available means will not allow uninvited neighbors to spoil the insulation;
• environmental Safety. Styrofoam does not emit any harmful substances from itself. The modern standard of this heater is full compliance with sanitary standards;
• as an additional protection against combustion, flame retardants are added to the main ingredients at the production stage, designed to increase the fire resistance of the foam. And if there is no direct contact with the fire, then it will die out in a short period of time. But, in fairness, it is worth noting that it is still considered a combustible material;
• loss of the above properties will not happen, even if there is a short-term contact with a heat source up to 110 ° C, but a long-term exposure to more than 80 ° C will cause deformation and loss of performance.

The described temperature regimes belong to the category of anomalies, and do not occur with regular frequency, so it is not advisable to make them the main motive for refusing to use foam.

Plates penoplex

Expanded polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene - all this is the name of the same material sold in hardware stores as foam insulation. It is a “relative” of the foam plastic that is familiar to everyone, while being considered a material that is one step higher.

The main difference begins already at the production stage, where extrusion plants are used. As a result, the fine-mesh structure of the material has greater strength than its "brother" foam. It is also distinguished by excellent hydrophobic properties. In the scarlet cells, the air is securely sealed, which does not allow warm air to leave the room, and cold air, on the contrary, to penetrate inside.

The main properties of heat-insulating material:

• strength. It is achieved through a unique homogeneous structure. Under heavy loads, the plate does not deform, distributing the weight qualitatively, but at the same time it is easily cut with a construction knife into pieces of the desired size;
• environmental friendliness The material has been proven by multiple studies, it is resistant to the formation of fungus and mold, rodents do not like it. Some types of organic solvents can soften the foam and disrupt the shape and structure of the plate. Therefore, when working with this insulation, it is recommended to avoid contact with such liquids;
• low vapor permeability involves strict adherence to the installation technology and recommendations for use, so as not to create a greenhouse effect in the room;

• lifetime foam boards are at least 50 years old. This is a guaranteed period of time during which the material will have its original characteristics;
• coefficient of thermal conductivity- the main indicator by which expanded polystyrene is considered a good insulation. Low values ​​​​of this indicator indicate that the house will be reliably protected from heat loss.
• The types of heat-insulating material penoplex and the directions of their use are quite diverse (in brackets are the previously used and modern names of the material).
• Facade insulation (PENOPLEX 31 or "Wall"). It is made with the addition of flame retardants. It is well applicable for plinths, internal and external walls, partitions, facades. Its density is 25-32 kg/m³, compressive strength is 0.20 MPa.
• Foundation ( PENOPLEX 35 without additives for fire resistance or "foundation"). In addition to the application that follows from the name, this type is widely used in the arrangement of basements, blind areas and plinths. The density is expressed in terms of 29-33 kg / m³, and the compressive strength is 0.27 MPa.
• Roofs. ( PENOPLEX 35 or "Roof"). Pitched or flat roofs of any type can be insulated with this type of Styrofoam. It is dense enough (28 - 33 kg/m³) to create a usable roof.
• Country cottages, saunas, houses. ( PENOPLEX 31 C or "Comfort"). Universal heater. Houses, roofing, walls and plinths in small private buildings - this is the scope of its application. Density indicators - 25-35 kg / m³, strength - 0.20 MPa.

Expanded polystyrene occupies a worthy position in popularity due to good performance.

glass wool insulation material

Known to more than one generation of builders, the insulation has undergone some modifications today. But, in fact, it remained the same material from molten glass mass. Sand and recycled materials of glass origin at temperatures above 1400 ° C are drawn into thin fibers, which are formed into small bundles (with the participation of binders), and then heated and pressed into a product resembling felt. Glass wool comes to the consumer in mats or rolls and is intended for warming both horizontal and vertical surfaces.

It belongs to the category of mineral materials and is still produced in large volumes, and this indicates the demand and the presence of a significant number of positive characteristics that are worth getting to know a little closer.

• Fragility refers rather to significant shortcomings. So that glass wool does not scatter into its component parts during operation, mats and canvases are stitched. But no reinforcement will save from small particles flying in all directions. Therefore, the equipment of a person working with glass wool should be serious: clothing that covers the body well, a respirator mask, glasses and gloves.
• The thermal conductivity of the material is low, but compared to other materials of a similar purpose, it is considered high.
• The cost of glass wool keeps it competitive. Due to its availability, it is in demand, especially since it really reduces heat loss.
• Ease of transportation and use. Rolls and mats with material weigh little and the packages are compact enough to bring the entire volume for home insulation at one time. It's easy to lay it on too. The only caveat is that when insulating vertical bases, it can fall out of the frame, because it is quite flexible and low-elasticity. The problem is solved by the construction of guides with a smaller distance than the width of the mat. Cutting to size is easy.
• Safety. Glass wool can cause certain inconveniences and harm to health only at the installation stage. But with the right organization of work, troubles will not happen. And after the material is laid in the base and covered with drywall, chipboard sheets or other finishing materials, it will not bring any harm to a person.
• The absence of rodents. Due to the specifics of the material, mice and rats will not choose this insulation to create cozy holes in it.
• Glass wool refers to non-combustible materials.
• Soundproofing during its use is also provided.

Thus, it is most convenient to use glass wool for floor and ceiling insulation. You can show skill and when finishing the walls. The main disadvantage is harmful dust, which is inevitable during cutting and rolling, but for some consumers, the low cost more than covers this minus.

slag wool

Continuing the conversation about mineral heaters, it is worth mentioning slag wool. It is made from blast furnace slag. Since this is a kind of production waste (when smelting iron in blast furnaces, a vitreous mass remains), the cost of its manufacture is low, and therefore the price of the finished insulation is quite affordable.

Slag wool is able to block heat well in rooms, but it has enough disadvantages and restrictions on its use to negate the low cost and good thermal insulation.

• So, slag wool is afraid of moisture. It is unreasonable to use it in bathrooms or on facades. At the same time, it is able to oxidize various metal parts and structures with which it comes into direct and prolonged contact.
• On top of all this, it is prickly and requires the use of special protection during operation. Against its background, glass wool looks much more attractive, so slag wool is rarely used in modern construction.

Mineral thermal insulation material

Basalt, stone, mineral wool, rockwool - these names most often hide the same material.

• Its fibers are not inferior in size to slag, but they do not cause discomfort during installation. Safety in use is one of the first distinguishing properties of this mineral insulation.

• The thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is calculated from 0.077 to 0.12 W / meter-kelvin. Basalt wool is called the best in all respects. It does not contain additional impurities harmful to health, can withstand prolonged exposure to extremely high and low temperatures, and is convenient to use.
• And ordinary stone and basalt wool are not amenable to combustion. The fibers will only melt, sinter together, but will not allow the further spread of fire.
• Any buildings can be insulated with stone wool, both when built from scratch, and have been in operation for quite a long time. Basalt insulation does not interfere with air microcirculation, which means that it can be used in buildings where supply ventilation does not function properly.
• Certain inconveniences for some builders may arise with the need to build a false wall. Without it, the installation of insulation will not work. But in fact, the construction technology is very simple, not so much space is “eaten up”.
• The material is environmentally friendly, well suited for the insulation of wooden houses. It is strictly forbidden to get wet, so the waterproofing layer must be made in accordance with all requirements.
• The recommended thickness of the heat-insulating material for the middle strip is 15-20 cm, in the southern regions a 10 cm layer is sufficient.

• Stone wool absorbs sound well. This is achieved due to the fact that its fibers are arranged randomly, and air accumulates in large quantities between them. This structure perfectly dampens sounds.
• The described insulation is chemically passive. Even if it is in close contact with the metal surface, no traces of corrosion will appear on it. Rotting and infection with fungi or mold is also not characteristic of stone wool. The material does not attract rodents and other pests.
• The only really negative point of its use is the rather high cost.

Characteristics of thermal insulation materials

Ecowool

Ecowool is an insulation made from waste paper and various residues from the manufacture of paper and cardboard. In addition to these components, a rather powerful fire retardant is also added to the antiseptic composition. It is extremely necessary, because judging by the fact that 80% of the material is flammable cellulose, the level of combustibility of such a thermal insulation product is quite high.

Ecowool is not without flaws.

• One of them is her natural decrease in volume. It is able to settle, losing up to 20% of the original bookmark level. To prevent this, ecowool is used in excess. The creation of a "reserve" will make up for the volume that decreases during operation.
• The insulation absorbs moisture quite well.. This directly affects the ability to retain heat. The material needs the ability to give off moisture to the external environment, so the heat-insulating layer must be ventilated.
• In order to carry out the installation, you will need special equipment. It is a device that pumps insulation with a uniform density, excluding its further shrinkage. In this regard, the help of hired specialists with experience in working with this particular type of insulation will be required. The wet application method, which involves such difficulties, also opens up the prospect of a break in construction work while the ecowool dries (from two to three days).

There is, of course, a dry insulation technique, but the above-described installation option still has a better result. If horizontal surfaces can be insulated without the use of special equipment, then creating a layer of thermal insulation on the walls will be difficult to do without. There is a risk of uneven shrinkage of the material and the creation of non-insulated cavities.

• Features of the material itself do not imply its independent (frameless) use when the insulation is carried out using a screed. Unlike expanded polystyrene boards, ecowool does not have sufficient strength for this.
• Great care must be taken during installation:
  • carry out work away from open fire;
  • avoid contact of the material with any source of heat that can lead to smoldering. That is, when insulating the surface next to the chimney or chimney, they will need to be separated from the insulation with basalt mats coated with foil or asbestos-cement barriers.

It would seem that against the background of such difficulties, one can immediately abandon the use of ecowool, but its positive aspects for someone can become a powerful incentive to use it.

• The material (even taking into account the allowance for shrinkage) is quite economical.
• Such a heater is environmentally friendly and safe for health. An exception may be the material where boric acid or ammonium sulfates were used as a fire retardant. In this case, ecowool will be distinguished by a sharp and unpleasant odor.
• It is a seamless insulation that does not have cold bridges. This means that heat loss in winter will be reduced to a minimum.
• The material is inexpensive, while allowing you to get good thermal insulation.

As a soundproofing material, ecowool can compete with many of the materials described above.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

Polyester with the addition of water, emulsifiers and active reagents, when exposed to a catalyst, forms a substance with all the features and indicators of a good heat-insulating material.

Polyurethane foam has the following characteristics:

• low coefficient of thermal conductivity: 0.019 - 0.028 W / meter-kelvin;
• applied by spraying, creating a continuous coating without cold bridges;
• the light weight of the hardened foam does not put pressure on the structure;
• ease of use without any fasteners makes it possible to insulate the surface with any configuration;
• long service life, including resistance to frost and heat, any precipitation, decay;
• safety for humans and the environment;
• does not destroy metal structural elements, but on the contrary, creates anti-corrosion protection for them.

Walls, floors and ceilings - its application is available everywhere. PPU will adhere to glass, wood, concrete, brick, metal and even painted surfaces. The only thing worth protecting polyurethane foam from is exposure to direct rays of light.

Types of thermal insulation materials

Reflective thermal insulation materials

There is a group of heat-saving materials that work on the principle of reflectors. They function quite simply: first they absorb and then give back the received heat.

• The surface of such heaters is able to reflect more than 97% of the heat that has reached their surface. This is available with one or two layers of polished aluminium.
• It does not contain impurities, but is applied to a layer of polyethylene foam for ease of use.

• Thin-looking material is able to surprise with its capabilities. A one or two centimeter layer of reflective insulation creates an effect comparable to using a fibrous heat insulator from 10 to 27 cm thick. Among the most popular materials in this category are Ecofol, Penofol, Poriplex, Armofol.
• In addition to heat and sound insulation, such heaters create vapor barrier protection (and are often used as such).

The conclusion is quite simple: the ideal insulation does not exist. Depending on the means, the goals pursued and personal preferences (including ease of use), everyone will be able to choose the best material for themselves to create a warm and truly cozy home. But we must remember that when using each of the above insulation on the roof, mandatory waterproofing of the heat-insulating material is required.

The construction industry offers many different types of thermal insulation materials. Despite the variety, they can be divided into several main types. The most used materials for thermal insulation:

• mineral wool insulation;
• expanded polystyrene and its extruded modification;
• foamed polyethylene with a metallized coating;
• polyurethane foam.

Each of the listed insulation options has its strengths and weaknesses and the optimal scope.

Properties of mineral wool insulation

Mineral wool is a modern modification of glass wool and is devoid of many of the latter's shortcomings. It is produced from the waste of the metallurgical industry with the addition of processed basalt rocks. It is produced in the form of mats and rolls of various sizes.

The disadvantages of mineral wool insulation include a significant specific gravity, gradual subsidence under the influence of its own gravity and "dusting" during installation.

These materials for thermal insulation have the following advantages:

• high heat-insulating ability;
• good sound absorption;
• fire resistance;
• low cost.

Widely used for insulation of floors, walls, roofs, attics and basements. Used as a heat insulator for ventilated facade systems.

Expanded polystyrene - insulation characteristics

Represents the made foam polymeric material with the high heat-insulating characteristics. It is used, like basalt insulation, when processing all structural elements of the house.

Positive differences:

• light weight;
• high sound insulation;
• good vapor barrier and resistance to compression;
• resistance to moisture, chemical and biological factors;
• ease of installation.

Disadvantages: brittleness, low fire resistance and the ability to release toxic compounds when ignited.

On sale there is an extruded analogue of PPS, which has the best characteristics in terms of density, plasticity and moisture resistance. Extruded polystyrene foam is a modern insulating material. It is more durable and stable, easy to handle, but its cost is higher than conventional foam. The areas of application of both varieties are similar.

A modern heat insulator consisting of polyethylene foam and aluminum foil. Many varieties are produced, differing in thickness, the presence of a self-adhesive film and the number of reflective layers (there may be one or two).

Advantages of a heater:

• Small thickness with high thermal insulation capacity. A sheet of penofol corresponds to the efficiency of a mineral wool board, which is 20 times thicker than it.
• Good vapor barrier
• Protects from external influence of moisture and wind;
• Versatility. Due to the reflective ability of the foil, it protects against all types of heat loss: convection, thermal conductivity and radiation;
• Ecological cleanliness;
• Ease of cutting and installation.

It is successfully used wherever materials for thermal insulation are in demand: in construction, industry, automotive, defense. In the residential sector, it is used as insulation for any building elements, water supply and sanitation pipelines, ventilation and air conditioning systems. It is indispensable as a reflector installed between the heating radiator and the wall.

Polyurethane foam for thermal insulation

A progressive method of insulation, which consists in spraying a liquid composition onto the surface to be insulated. The hardened and expanded polymer creates a reliable protection against the cold. Thermal insulation materials such as polyethylene foam and polyurethane foam are the most effective technical solutions.

The advantages of PPU include:

• low thermal conductivity;
• jointless technology that does not form cold bridges;
• good adhesion to most building materials;
• accessibility of the most difficult places;
• anticorrosive properties;
• resistance to moisture, fungi and mold;
• soundproofing properties;
• durability.

The weak point is the instability to the direct action of sunlight. This can be prevented by painting, or by using polyurethane foam as a heat insulator in hinged facades. Therefore, polyurethane foam is used wherever the materials listed above are used.

The application of polyurethane foam is carried out using sophisticated high-pressure equipment and expensive components. Only qualified specialists may carry out these works. This explains the high cost of this method.

The technologies presented above are far from all options for insulating residential buildings. There are other materials for thermal insulation: expanded clay, insulating plaster, foamed rubber, perlite, insulation from recycled hemp and flax, non-woven insulating fiber, foam glass and others. They account for less than 5% of the total volume of heat insulators used. The main types of materials used were discussed above.

Thermal insulation materials are construction products that have a low level of thermal conductivity. They are designed for building insulation, technical insulation and protection of cold chambers from heating.

To determine the choice of material for thermal insulation, you need to know its properties and characteristics. It is important that the material has low thermal conductivity. The latter is provided by the movement of molecules that carry heat. Thermal insulation materials help slow down their movement.

Important properties of insulating materials

Heat insulators are called building materials with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. In the event that thermal insulation is used to internally retain heat in a building, the materials are called heaters.

Materials for thermal insulation must have a number of properties:

• low thermal conductivity;
• porous structure;
• density;
• vapor permeability;
• water absorption;
• biostability;
• fire resistance;
• fire safety;
• temperature stability;
• heat capacity;
• frost resistance.

Common types of insulation

There are quite a few varieties of materials for thermal insulation, one of them is a heater with a fibrous structure, which includes mineral wool. It has a high porosity, about 95% of its volume is air. That is why mineral wool has good thermal insulation properties and is often used to insulate buildings. Its production is quite affordable, and hence the price too. The benefits of mineral wool include:

• does not retain moisture;
• not amenable to combustion;
• provides sound insulation;
• long service life.

It should be noted that when moisture gets on the material, it loses its thermal insulation properties. When installing mineral wool, it is necessary to use a hydro- and vapor barrier film.

Glass wool is made from fibers that are obtained from quartz sand, soda, and lime. Materials for thermal insulation can be purchased in the form of a roll, plate or shell. According to its characteristics, it resembles mineral wool, but is slightly stronger and dampens noise to a greater extent. Among the shortcomings - a low level of temperature stability.

Foam glass is made by sintering blowing agents with glass powder, it is produced in the form of plates or blocks. Its structure has a porosity of up to 95%, which provides excellent thermal insulation properties. Foam glass is a fairly durable material for thermal insulation, with the following characteristics:

• frost resistance;
• water resistance;
• incombustibility;
• strength;
• long service life.

Disadvantages - high price and vapor tightness

Cellulose wool is a wood fiber material with a fine-grained structure, which consists of 80% wood fibers, 12% flame retardant and the remaining 8% antiseptic. Material for thermal insulation is laid in two ways: dry and wet. For the wet laying method, a special installation is used, with which wet cellulose wadding is blown. Thus, the sticky properties of pectin are activated. The dry method can be carried out manually or with special equipment. Cellulose wool is poured and rammed to a certain density. Cotton wool is quite affordable and has good insulating properties.

Materials for thermal insulation are quite diverse, so you need to study their properties in order to make a choice. After all, each building requires a certain material.

Mineral wool
Expanded polystyrene or foam

gypsum fiber
Cork
Expanded clay
polyurethane foam
cellulose wadding

1. Roll materials and plates;
2. Bulk and other materials.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is an excellent heat-insulating material with a lot of positive qualities. Mineral wool is available in two types - roll insulation for the floor and slabs.

Loose heaters: varieties and scope

This material is best suited for warming wooden floors - it fits very well on the base and in the logs.

• incombustibility;
• Long service life;

• Low strength indicators;

Expanded polystyrene or foam

• Affordable price;

• combustibility;
• fragility;

• Long service life;
• Low thermal conductivity.

Among the disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam, one can note the inability to “breathe” and good flammability, which will not allow creating a fireproof structure. See also: "Which insulation for the floor under the linoleum to choose and how to lay."

gypsum fiber

Cork

• Environmental Safety;
• Light weight;
• High strength;
• Good plasticity;

Expanded clay

polyurethane foam

• Fast installation;
• No joints;
• Excellent elasticity;

cellulose wadding

• The integrity of the coating;
• Low cost;

• combustibility;
• Difficulty of installation.

Conclusion

Wall insulation inside the house: advantages and disadvantages

You can find quite a lot of statements against the insulation of the walls of the house inside. Say, with such insulation, there are problems of wet corners, dampness starts in the walls, as a result, fungus and unpleasant odors ... The purpose of this article is to figure out what causes these problems and, most importantly, how to avoid them and still insulate the walls home from the inside. Well, because such insulation has a number of advantages.

Advantages of internal wall insulation

Insulation of walls inside the house has the following advantages:

• You can insulate at any time of the year, regardless of the weather.
• no need to build too high scaffolds (unless, of course, we are talking about the insulation of a residential building, and not some kind of "Palace of Congresses" :))
• if it is necessary to insulate not in a private building, but in some high-rise building, then for external insulation it is necessary to coordinate a project to change the facade. Not to mention the fact that it is expensive in itself - you cannot do without hired specialists. Well, inside your apartment ...

What are the disadvantages of internal wall insulation and how to avoid them?

Internal wall insulation also has disadvantages.

When insulating from the inside, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room decreases

The first minus of warming the house from the inside is that the thickness of the wall will increase inward, due to which the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room will decrease.

It will not be possible to avoid this at all, since the insulation has a thickness in any case. But you can minimize it - if the insulation layer is not very thick. I am hinting at the choice of a heater with the best thermal insulation properties ... For now, I am only hinting, but I will specifically say below.

With internal insulation, the microclimate in the room worsens

The second minus: the internal insulation of the house can lead to a deterioration in the microclimate in the room. This is exactly what all the opponents of such insulation are talking about. What are we talking about?

The wall behind the heater is cold. Therefore, in winter, the water vapor generated in the room, passing through the layers of interior decoration and insulation, condenses on the inner surface of the wall. The result - the wall gradually accumulates moisture, which does not have time to evaporate, which is why on the walls - at a temperature of +10 and above! - a fungus, mold settles, the house smells of dampness, a white coating appears on clothes, furniture, books ... there is little pleasant.

The described problem can be avoided if you avoid mistakes during construction and choose the right material for insulation. What are these mistakes and what is the best way to insulate the house inside, read on.

When insulating indoors, cold bridges remain

The third minus of wall insulation inside the house: at the junction of interfloor / attic floors with the outer wall, there are cold bridges through which heat leaks still occur (orange arrows):

We have this minus only if we did not treat the insulation in good faith enough: for example, we insulated the walls, and scored on the floors and ceilings. But what does technology have to do with it if you haven’t welded your own “bowler”? To avoid this minus, you need to create an inextricable heat-insulating circuit from the inside of the entire room:

Only and everything.

How to avoid the disadvantages of internal insulation?

So, what tips can you find to smooth out the cons of internal insulation? And are all the tips worthwhile?

Tip 1. A vapor barrier with one-sided conductivity is placed between the wall finish and the insulation. This is advised to do when they insulate from the inside with mineral wool.

But let's look at the picture:

With internal insulation, the dew point shifts to the inner surface of the wall, and the mineral wool insulation begins to take moisture from the wall. And then, after a month or two, an unpleasant smell appears, bacteria begin to develop in the mineral wool ... we do not see this, but we feel the smell, while we cannot understand where it comes from.

But how can it be: after all, there is a vapor barrier that should not let moisture into the insulation! Theoretically it is. But in practice it is not possible to provide one hundred percent sealing. Why? Let's remember how the vapor barrier and further sheathing are attached? They put a profile for drywall, stretch the film ... then they screw the drywall, PASSING THE SECURITIES THROUGH THE FILM - and where is the hermetic vapor barrier here? And along the perimeter of the wall, it is not possible to provide 100% sealing.

And the air in the wool itself has moisture, which condenses as soon as the wall has cooled sufficiently.

Conclusion: any insulation that allows steam to pass through is not suitable for internal insulation!

Tip 2. When designing insulation inside the house, you need to take into account the process of moisture transfer through the building envelope. That is, the vapor permeability of materials in the “pie” of the structure should decrease from room to street.

Difficult said? Simpler: a non-vapour-permeable material should be in the room, behind it - a material with less vapor permeability, behind it - with even less, etc.

For example, you need to do insulation of the walls of a panel house from the inside. Question: what? mineral wool? Steam passes through mineral wool much better than through concrete (I must say: steam practically does not pass through concrete).

Conclusion: do not do the insulation from the inside with mineral wool of panel (and brick, and gas-block, etc.) walls, but choose another insulation. Non-vapor permeable. For example, foam or extruded polystyrene foam. (Actually, mineral wool for internal insulation is suitable only for frame houses and attics, which also have mineral wool inside the frame.)

Comment! The author believes that the foam for insulating the walls of the house inside is BAD! For good health. But if your opinion is different, then do at least such insulation correctly: the walls must be aligned (!) And the insulation sheet should fit snugly (without gaps!) To this flat surface (i.e., if we fix the insulation with glue, then the sheet must be smeared over the entire surface, and not stick a few dots and / or stripes on it).

Tip 3. In any case, good ventilation should be provided. There are no comments here, because this is correct.

Insulation requirements for internal insulation

Internal insulation imposes the following requirements on the insulation:

• durability,
• don't be afraid of fire
• aging resistance,
• environmental Safety,
• biological resistance (not edible for mice, moths, molds…),
• ability to keep shape
• sufficient thermal insulation properties.

It is advisable, before buying a heater, to check the availability of various certificates for fire and sanitary safety. But if you can still believe the conclusion about fire safety, then it’s far from always about sanitary safety: many modern materials are not at all environmentally friendly, even if their purity is stated in the certificates.

Conclusion: it is better to focus not only (and not so much) on certificates, but on common sense, reason, practical experience, time-tested.

And now the question is: what is the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the inside?

What kind of insulation to insulate the house from the inside?

Why mineral wool is not suitable, I have already said a couple of times, I hope that's enough. So what to insulate? There are materials that perfectly solve all problems. These are the materials that absolutely vapor-tight.

First, extruded polystyrene foam. We use only the one that has a "groove-comb". Extruded polystyrene foam has a very good thermal resistance, so the thickness of the sheet for internal insulation is only 20 ... 30 mm. Result: both the wall is healthy and the minimum area is taken.

If the issue of ecology is important to you, then we pay attention to another material: foam glass. Here there is a question of sealing joints: if polystyrene can become tightly sheet to sheet, then foam glass has more rough edges.

Types of insulation for the walls of the house: outside and inside for wooden and frame houses + Video

Therefore, foam glass is often placed on bituminous mastic, which again raises the issue of ecology. Then it is better to seal the joints with silicone sealant or liquid rubber. Foam glass itself can be glued to polyurethane foam glue, in extreme cases, to mounting foam.

The third material often used for insulation from the inside is ordinary white foam. The problem with this material is that it has pores. Styrofoam with a density of less than 35 kg / m3 has a large number of technological pores, which is why it passes steam! The lower the density of the foam, the more vapor permeable it is. And the older the foam, the larger the pores, the vapor permeability of the foam is greater - even with the promised density of more than 35 kg / m3. Therefore, for internal insulation, it is better to buy high-quality material. Again, the issue of ecology, i.e. health.

If all of the above did not scare you away from insulating the walls inside the house (or you simply have nowhere to go), then in the next article we will analyze ways to insulate the walls from the inside. See you.

interior wall insulation

Mineral wool
Expanded polystyrene or foam
Extruded polystyrene foam
gypsum fiber
Cork
Expanded clay
polyurethane foam
cellulose wadding

Insulation is used to prevent heat loss in a house or individual rooms. The arrangement of insulation is a rather serious process, and one of the leading roles in this matter is the choice of a suitable heat-insulating material. About what kind of heaters for the floor are, and will be discussed in this article.

Insulation materials are available in two formats:

1. Roll materials and plates;
2. Bulk and other materials.

Both categories include a fairly wide range of materials with a wide variety of properties and characteristics. The most popular thermal insulation materials for the floor will be discussed below.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is an excellent heat-insulating material with a lot of positive qualities. Mineral wool is available in two types - roll insulation for the floor and slabs. This material is best suited for warming wooden floors - it fits very well on the base and in the logs.

The list of positive qualities of mineral wool looks like this:

• Good resistance to low temperatures;
• incombustibility;
• Long service life;
• Chemical resistance;
• stable physical performance.

It was not without drawbacks - mineral wool has the following negative qualities:

• Considerable dimensions, due to which the heat-insulating layer occupies a large volume;
• Low strength indicators;
• Poor moisture resistance.

Mineral wool, when moisture gets on it, immediately decreases in volume, and even if it is dried, the heat-insulating properties of the material will deteriorate many times over. To prevent this phenomenon, it is necessary to install a waterproofing layer during the arrangement of insulation.

A good solution to the issue of moisture would be the use of fiberglass - this material can absorb liquid and does not lose its characteristics after drying. However, the choice will not be easy - mineral wool is well suited for fire safety.

Expanded polystyrene or foam

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of small balls interconnected. The production of expanded polystyrene is carried out according to two technologies - press and non-press, and the difference between the materials obtained is small. However, most often, extruded polystyrene foam with PS marking is used for floor insulation.

As a rule, expanded polystyrene is used for thermal insulation of concrete floors. If you need to decide which insulation to choose for a floor with water or electric heating, then profile plates are much better suited, for the manufacture of which dense polystyrene foam is used - this material has a relief surface that prevents damage to the heating elements and improves adhesion to the surface.

Expanded polystyrene has many advantages:

• Excellent strength indicators;
• Good thermal insulation characteristics;
• Affordable price;
• The ability to prevent the penetration of moisture;
• Excellent resistance to low temperatures;
• Simple installation, which is determined by the format of the produced material.

Expanded polystyrene also has disadvantages:

• combustibility;
• The destruction of the material during prolonged exposure to sunlight;
• Inability to pass air;
• fragility;
• When a small amount of water enters the boards and then freezes, the structure of the expanded polystyrene is destroyed, so during installation it will be necessary to install a waterproofing layer;
• During the installation process, seams appear between the plates, which then need to be sealed, for which mounting foam or sealant is used.

Extruded polystyrene foam

This material is made by extrusion, which is the reason for its name. The technology for the production of extruded polystyrene foam makes it possible to create a floor insulation with a monolithic microstructure, consisting of air-filled sealed cells. There are no pores in these cells, so moisture and steam cannot get inside the material. See also: "What kind of insulation under the laminate is better to lay."

The list of advantages of such material looks like this:

• High strength compared to foam;
• Long service life;
• Good resistance to atmospheric precipitation and influence of ultra-violet rays;
• High resistance to aggressive chemicals;
• No toxic emissions;
• Low thermal conductivity.

Among the disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam, one can note the inability to “breathe” and good flammability, which will not allow creating a fireproof structure.

Electrical, sound and noise insulation materials

See also: "Which insulation for the floor under the linoleum to choose and how to lay."

gypsum fiber

Gypsum fiber is the best option for warming any floor covering. The versatility of this material is its main advantage, which makes it possible to insulate even structures with electric floor heating.

To equip a dry screed, as the technology of gypsum fiber insulation is called, a minimum of knowledge and time is required - it is enough to follow the correct work algorithm. In addition, it is worth knowing that gypsum fiber resists moisture very poorly, and the cost of the material is quite high.

Cork

For the manufacture of such thermal insulation, cork oak bark is used. As a rule, cork insulation is produced in the format of plates, the thickness of which varies from 25 to 50 cm. The plates can be based on cork granules connected with resin, or pre-crushed pressed cork bark.

Cork insulation has many advantages:

• Environmental Safety;
• Light weight;
• High strength;
• Good plasticity;
• Excellent resistance to moisture and mold;
• Ease of installation and work with the material;
• Incombustibility and absence of toxic emissions during smoldering;
• Long service life - cork can last more than 50 years.

Of the shortcomings of cork insulation, only the high cost of the material can be distinguished.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay belongs to the category of loose insulating materials. The arrangement of thermal insulation using expanded clay has been used for a very long time - this material has become popular for its good thermal insulation characteristics and the ability to absorb moisture without consequences.

The most important problem when installing such insulation is the need to create a layer of thermal insulation with a thickness of at least 15 cm - it turns out far from the thinnest floor insulation. However, there will be no particular difficulties with this - the work is easily done by hand and requires, for the most part, only time.

polyurethane foam

A good option for insulation for any surface is polyurethane foam spraying. Polyurethane foam is a small capsule filled with air. The use of this material does not require the arrangement of hydro or vapor barrier. In addition, polyurethane foam applied to the floor practically does not absorb moisture.

This material has many advantages, among which stand out:

• Undemanding to leveling the surface;
• Fast installation;
• No joints;
• Excellent elasticity;
• Neutral reaction to a mold and influence of microorganisms.

The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam insulation is the complexity of spraying - it is impossible to carry out this work on your own without proper skills.

cellulose wadding

Cellulose wool is a material made from wood fibers with a fine-grained structure. Laying of this material can be carried out using two technologies - wet and dry. When using the wet method, the cotton wool is blown wet, which allows you to create a monolithic coating. Dry laying looks a little simpler - for this, cotton wool must be covered and tamped.

Of the advantages of cellulose wool, the following qualities can be distinguished:

• The integrity of the coating;
• Low cost;
• Good indicators of thermal insulation;
• No need to equip vapor barrier.

The main disadvantages of cotton wool are:

• combustibility;
• Weak ductility and poor compression resistance;
• Difficulty of installation.

Conclusion

The presented heaters are the most popular and are used quite often. To choose which insulation to use for the floor, you need to understand the characteristics of all thermal insulation materials and choose the best option for a particular situation.

Warming of a private house

If your country house is not able to retain heat at the proper level, and you constantly freeze in it in winter, then you should think about warming it. Of course, you can light a fireplace, turn on an electric heater in each of the rooms and thus spend cold winter evenings. But in order to solve this problem once and for all and not to spend fabulous sums on gas and electricity bills during the cold season, it is better to insulate your country cottage. After that, you will not only live in warmth, tranquility and comfort in winter, but will also save energy.

Stages of insulation

The process of warming a country house consists of a number of stages:

• foundation insulation,
• floor insulation,
• wall insulation (internal and external),
• ceiling insulation,
• roof insulation.

Below in the article we will consider in detail some of these stages.

In order to achieve the maximum effect from the insulation carried out, it is necessary to insulate the house in a complex way. It is very important to use only high-quality materials.

thermal imaging

Many believe that building insulation with the help of professionals is much better. This is explained by the specifics of the work of a specialist. As a rule, a built cottage loses heat due to its design flaws. It is best to identify these shortcomings and identify all the weaknesses of the house using a thermal image. Having identified weaknesses, the specialist will be able to pay maximum attention to them. And only a professional with his special equipment can take such a picture.

Wall insulation

As mentioned above, the insulation of the house should be carried out in a complex. Very often, the heat loss distribution diagram shows that most of the heat is lost through the walls of the house. Therefore, it is better to start insulating the house just from the walls.

Wall insulation can be:

There are a number of features that need to be taken into account.

When combining internal wall insulation with external insulation, certain proportions must be observed - the level of thermal resistance of the external insulation should be three times the level of the internal one.

Internal walls

As a result of the internal insulation of the walls, the enclosing structure does not accumulate heat. Over time, fungus may appear on the walls inside the house, as condensation will occur between the wall and the thermal insulation layer.

Another significant disadvantage of using only this type of insulation is the fact that the walls will be in the winter in the sub-zero temperature zone.

External walls

If external wall insulation is used, then all of the above disadvantages are absent. In addition, this type of wall insulation will provide the house with a much longer service life. This is explained by the fact that with external insulation, the possibility of the formation of various fungi on the walls is practically excluded, and the house from the outside is additionally protected from the negative effects of environmental factors.

The only drawback of external wall insulation can be called the seasonality of the work, since this insulation can be carried out only in the warm season.

Conventionally, external wall insulation is divided into three main methods:

• laying insulation on the inside of the building envelope,
• laying insulation inside the building envelope,
• laying insulation on the outside of the building envelope (this system is called a wet type system).

The choice of insulation

After you have chosen a method of insulation for your home, you need to correctly select the material for future work. Different materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion, which must be taken into account when choosing a material. If this was not taken into account, then the material may deform over time, cracks will appear on it.

When using wet type insulation, an important parameter is vapor permeability, as well as the calculation of moisture transfer. That is, the moisture that will accumulate in winter as a result of temperature differences should be completely removed during the summer period. Such calculations should be carried out taking into account the level of average temperatures in your area. If this factor is neglected, then excess moisture will lead to the appearance of fungi.

Floor insulation

Conduct floor insulation in the house should be comprehensive. Only in this way can a good result be achieved. Since concrete is characterized by a high level of thermal conductivity, it is recommended to insulate foundations from the outside when building country houses.

Before starting to insulate the floor of the house, if there is a basement or basement, they are first insulated. The floor during insulation should not be raised higher than the waterproofing layer between the foundation and the brick.

Stages of work

Typically, floor insulation is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Crushed stone is laid on the ground (the layer thickness should be 10 cm).
2. A layer of sand is poured over the rubble (the layer thickness should also be 10 cm).
3. Lay thermal insulation boards.
4. Lay a layer of waterproofing.
5. Perform concrete screed.
6. Lay the flooring.

This floor insulation algorithm is the simplest, but there are others. They are selected in accordance with the functional properties of the future floor.

The most common schemes for floor insulation in country cottages are as follows:

• Above underground.
• Floors in wet operation.
• Floors in the cold attic.
• Floors laid with heating cable.
• Floors above the basement.

  Thermal insulation of the house

Ceiling insulation

Ceiling heat loss is about ten percent. And although at first glance this figure does not seem so significant, but we are considering the insulation of the house in the complex.

To insulate ceilings, it is very important to choose a good material. It is worth giving preference to safe, as well as environmentally friendly materials. In the event of a fire, fire and hot air tend to rise, so it is very important that the selected materials are not combustible and do not emit suffocating smoke.

To insulate the ceiling, the following materials are suitable:

• ecowool,
• mineral wool,
• polyethylene films,
• polypropylene films.

The listed materials are inexpensive and meet all the above requirements.

Floor insulation in the attic

If the country house has an attic, then the ceiling is insulated in two stages. First you need to insulate the floor in the attic, and only then directly and the ceiling itself.

A vapor barrier material is first attached to the ceiling, then a heater is laid (for example, sheets of mineral wool). A layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation - a waterproofing film. After the last stage, the insulation of the ceilings in the house can be considered complete. Further, the ceilings can be sheathed with clapboard, or a false ceiling system can be installed.

Video. Proper insulation of the walls of the house. Outside or inside? Process physics

Video. Insulation of the facade of a private residential building

Thermal insulation, warming

How to insulate the floors in a private house with your own hands?

A well-insulated home is always more comfortable. And heating costs are much lower. In this article, we will tell you about how you can insulate a house well, both during the construction process and when it has already been built. You will learn what materials are used for this and, most importantly, how to do it yourself, without resorting to the services of professionals.

What can be done if the house is cold despite heating?

When building a house, special attention should be paid to insulation, especially floor insulation. If this is not done, the house will always be cold and damp. It will be necessary to increase the heating power, therefore, additional material costs await you. Isn't it easier to make high-quality insulation? Below we will talk about how this can be relatively easy to do with your own hands. Well, if you hired builders, then based on the material of the article, you can always control their work.

It all starts with the foundation

Insulation of a shallow strip foundation

Yes, even at the very initial stage of construction, you should take care of the insulation and waterproofing of the foundation. For example, you are building a small house on a shallow strip foundation - the easiest and most cost-effective way to build a foundation for a building. In this case, it is recommended to stick cheap insulation on the sides of the finished concrete tape, for example, foam plastic, and lay roofing material on top. Both polystyrene and roofing material can be glued onto bituminous mastic. The roofing material tapes are overlapped, and the seams are fastened with a blowtorch fire.

Before the walls are erected, a waterproofing layer of 2 layers of roofing material is laid on the upper part of the foundation.

Only these fairly simple measures alone will not allow dampness to penetrate concrete, it will not freeze in winter, which means that it will become much more comfortable to live in such a house, because there will be no heat leakage. And the service life of the foundation will increase many times over.

Warming of the slab foundation

In private construction on heterogeneous soils, a monolithic reinforced concrete slab is often used as a foundation. It is insulated in the same way, only insulation and waterproofing are laid over the entire upper surface of the base, except for those places where walls will be erected. In these places, only waterproofing is attached.

Basement insulation

If it is planned to build a basement under the house, then a recessed strip foundation is being built. Insulation and waterproofing during the construction of such a foundation is carried out both from the outside and from the inside. Both the floor and the basement ceiling must be insulated. From the inside, the basement is often insulated with a material called "liquid rubber". A heater is glued on it, and a finishing lining is mounted on top, on the crate.

Important! Insulation should always be done together with waterproofing.

What if the house is already built?

Here, of course, there will be more work, but it is still possible to make insulation, you just have to dig trenches along the perimeter of the building to the depth of the foundation and insulate it from the sides. If the house already has floors, then they will have to be dismantled, if they are wooden, remove linoleum or other coating, if a cement screed is used as the floor. To insulate the floor inside the house, you can use both cheap materials and better ones, for example, penoplex. It costs, of course, more expensive than polystyrene or mineral wool, but has many advantages :

• insulation sheets have different sizes and thicknesses, which allows you to choose the most suitable for a given room;

• each sheet has a spike connection, which avoids gaps during installation.

If, nevertheless, foam plastic is chosen as a heater, then all the cracks must be “blown out” with mounting foam. If this is not done, "bridges" of cold are formed.

When insulating with foam plastic or other similar material, the joints are glued with adhesive tape. When insulating the floor inside the house, it is recommended to lay a vapor barrier made of polyethylene foil over the insulation. It is attached over the insulation with double-sided tape. It is also necessary to provide a gap around the perimeter of the room with a width of 1 cm. It will not allow the screed to crack from temperature changes. This seam can be treated with foamed vinyl.

Floor installation

Well, the insulation is done, now you can proceed with the installation of the floor. If you want to pour a cement screed, it is recommended to lay a metal mesh over the surface of the insulation. It will make the screed more durable and will not allow it to crack and crumble over time. It is recommended to lay high-quality insulated linoleum or carpet on the screed.

If possible, it is best to use not a screed, but lay a wooden floor.

Thermal insulation materials: types and properties

To do this, logs are laid over the insulation, on which the floorboards are attached. In this case, the air space between the insulation and the floor surface will create additional insulation. The floorboards should be of good quality and mounted in accordance with all the rules, that is, tightly adjust the tenon joints using wedges. This will avoid the formation of gaps between the floor boards.

The benefits of insulation

• dampness will disappear in the house, therefore, comfort will increase;

• even in winter, it will be possible to walk barefoot on the cement floor, which is important if there are small children in the house, because they play on the floor;

• heating costs will be significantly reduced.

Some nuances

When insulating an already built house, be prepared for the fact that you will have to outweigh the doors, as the floor will rise. Of course, such work, like all other insulation work, requires a certain amount of money and time, but it pays off handsomely. In addition, you can do everything yourself, which will save a lot.

Video: Floor insulation in a private house - tips and tricks

How to align the walls in a private house on your own?

How to insulate the facade of a wooden house? Instruction

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the inside and what are the disadvantages of internal insulation? Wall, floor and ceiling materials

Warming a wooden house from the inside is advisable, unless the owner wants to spoil the natural beauty of the natural material from the outside.

It is a pity to close a log cabin or a facade made of timber with another finishing material, and in this case it is necessary to insulate the walls from the inside. Internal work includes insulation of walls, floors, ceilings, taking into account the number of storeys and the attic, and the roof.

Only environmentally friendly materials are suitable for warming the house from the inside in order to keep the microclimate of the premises healthy.

Overview of types and characteristics of heaters, their scope

It is allowed to use a safer penofol, as well as a universal material for the insulation of any buildings and structures of mineral wool.

Benefits of insulating a wooden house from the inside

The main advantage has already been mentioned above. This is an opportunity to leave the facade of the house in its natural form. In addition, the floors inside the house can be insulated, which is very important for maintaining a healthy indoor climate.

Why is it impossible to insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Of course, you can do this, but external insulation has a number of advantages over internal insulation.

Experts advise using this method of insulation in isolated cases, when really external insulation is impossible. This is due to a number of shortcomings, which should be mentioned in more detail.

The main disadvantage of internal thermal insulation in a wooden house is the displacement of the dew point deep into the wall. This will further lead to the formation of mold there and rotting of the tree.

Among other shortcomings, the following are important:

• lack of natural ventilation of the walls;
• violation of the microclimate in the premises;
• reduction of usable area of ​​the house.

In addition, none of the insulation, except for jute and felt, can be considered 100% environmentally friendly. Therefore, it is better to insulate the house from the outside. But if this is not possible, it is necessary to choose the most suitable materials for internal insulation.

How can you insulate a wooden house from the inside?

warm seam

Special sealant for log cabins. It is used indoors to insulate the seams between the logs on the facade and ceiling. Relevant if the owner wants to keep the log house in its original form, without covering it with finishing materials.

Warm seam for insulation inside a wooden house

To maintain complete environmental friendliness, you can replace the sealants with jute, felt or linen tape and caulk the seams with them.

The cost of caulking seams inside the house is from 120 to 250 rubles per linear meter. This is a very affordable price even for families with a small budget. Therefore, it is recommended to invite specialists to insulate the log house, only they can guarantee the high quality of work.

Mineral wool

Universal insulation, which is most often used outside. Affordable cost and high thermal insulation performance make this material the most popular among developers.

The insulation technology is the same for walls and ceilings.

Positive properties of mineral wool:

• high environmental friendliness, especially in modern materials, where formaldehyde is replaced by safer components;
• affordable cost material is considered the cheapest option for insulation inside a wooden house;
• good thermal and sound insulation performance;
• incombustibility;
• durability the material does not rot, is not subject to fungal diseases;
• good indicators of vapor tightness, which, by the way, is both an advantage and a disadvantage.

The negative properties include:

• the same vapor impermeability, due to which an unfavorable microclimate for human lungs can be created indoors;
• shrinkage when wet;
• the need to sheathe the walls with facial material (create a false wall).

Features of mineral wool insulation of walls and ceilings of a wooden house

Unlike external insulation, inside the material is glued directly to the wall, then it is sheathed with a vapor barrier.

It is best to use a special vapor barrier that allows air from the room to pass outside. This will create additional natural ventilation to the insulation. Even if wet, the cotton wool can dry out due to the permeability of the vapor barrier.

A crate, timber or metal profile is installed on the vapor barrier (it is also possible under it), on which facing material, drywall, board, lining, imitation of timber, and so on, are already attached.

Styrofoam

Polymer material based on foam, but without chemically harmful components. Suitable for insulation inside a wooden house.

In the photo, extruded polystyrene foam Penoplex

The advantages include good thermal insulation properties, low weight, durability and moisture resistance.

Features of insulation with polystyrene foam

When choosing this material, such concepts as foamed and extruded polystyrene foam may occur. In fact, this is the same material, the only difference is in the methods of its manufacture.

The main features of polystyrene foam insulation are the need for careful leveling of the surface and sealing of the seams between the sheets. Old boards must be cleaned of bumps and roughness, and the material is not suitable for a log house from a bar at all.

The joints between the sheets of material are foamed and cleaned after the foam dries. Just like mineral wool, expanded polystyrene is suitable for insulating not only walls, but also ceilings.

polyurethane foam

The material of the future, which is applied in liquid form with a special apparatus. For insulation with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to mount a frame, which is filled with foam under pressure. It quickly hardens and forms a monolithic protective layer of insulation.

Polyurethane foam spraying

Polyurethane foam will reliably protect the house not only from cold and external noise, but will also provide additional guarantees of safety in case of fire.

The disadvantages include the complexity of finishing work after insulation with this material. It needs to be plastered using a special mesh.

Floor insulation in a wooden house

In addition to the listed methods of insulation, which, as an option, are also suitable for floors, there are several more.

Warm floor

The Underfloor heating system using IR film is an expensive pleasure, but at the moment it is the most optimal energy-saving option, which, moreover, creates a special cosiness and comfort.

Backfill and fill floors

Expanded clay insulation and concrete pouring are relevant for the floors of the first and basement floors. The advantages include good thermal insulation properties and affordable cost of materials.

There are also options for water and electric floors:

Before starting work on internal insulation, it is recommended to consult with specialists. Perhaps there is a way to insulate the exterior of the facade, and then only work on the insulation of floors will remain inside.

Heat loss, especially in winter, adversely affects the health of apartment residents. 30% of heat escapes through cracks in window and door openings, and 20% is lost through floors mainly on the ground floor, where the heated room is in contact with the ground, if there is no heat-insulating layer. Floor insulation makes your life more comfortable: you can walk barefoot on the floor at any time without fear of catching a cold. The heat in the apartment is maintained thanks to the thermal insulation of the floor. The question arises: "Which floor insulation should you choose?"

Today we will tell you about what types of floor heaters exist, what are their advantages and disadvantages. We will acquaint you with the criteria for choosing a heat-insulating layer, we will tell you which of the heaters is best for keeping heat in the house, and how to lay it correctly in a particular room.

Criteria for choosing floor heaters

To choose the right material for floor insulation, you should pay attention to the following criteria.

The heater must be:

Types of floor heaters

To choose the right heat-insulating material, you need to know what types the industry offers, and what are their advantages and disadvantages.

There are several types of heaters:

• mineral;
• polymeric;
• wood chip.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay - burnt clay in granules.

Despite its merits, there are some minor drawbacks.

Expanded clay dries for a long time, slowly parting with absorbed moisture. Expanded clay forms dust, so when working with it, you need to wear a respirator.

Otherwise, expanded clay is a convenient and high-quality insulation. Claydite insulate walls, floors, roofs of houses.

Polymer insulation for houses

These include:

1. polystyrene foam - polystyrene;
2. polyurethane foam;
3. foamed polyethylene on a foil basis;
4. penoizol-liquid foam.

Styrofoam

One of the polymeric floor insulation is expanded polystyrene. It's foamed plastic. Consists of separate cells - granules.

• This is a durable material that, despite its light weight, can withstand high loads.
• Due to its low weight, the foam itself creates a minimum load on the walls and foundation.
• It is moisture resistant, so it can be used in places with high humidity on the balcony.
• Styrofoam retains heat for a long time, almost without absorbing it. It surpasses many heaters in terms of thermal insulation.
• When insulating floors, you can get by with a small thickness of foam.
• The price of expanded polystyrene is low, which is an important advantage of this material and attracts the attention of buyers.

An important disadvantage of polystyrene is that when burned, it releases harmful substances that are poisonous and dangerous.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam differs from polystyrene foam in the manufacturing method and characteristics. Styrofoam is obtained by exposing the granules to water vapor. At high temperatures, the cells increase in size and fill the entire mold. An extruded polystyrene foam element is added at elevated pressure and temperature, which is squeezed out through an extruder.

The thermal insulation properties of extruded polystyrene are much better than conventional foam. But extruded polystyrene foam has lower vapor permeability. Another disadvantage is high flammability.

Foamed polyethylene on a foil base

Foamed polyethylene on a foil basis is one of the best floor insulation. It is obtained by melting polyethylene in a special container with the addition of liquefied gas, which acts as a foamed reagent. A foil film is applied to one side of the polyethylene foam, which reflects heat. Foil polyethylene is supplied in rolls, sheets, plates.

• Closed cells contribute to high hygroscopicity. The water resistance of the material allows you to insulate floors and walls in baths, saunas.
• The material is resilient and elastic, durable: it can withstand a significant load, does not deform.
• Corrosive acids, alkalis, gasoline and other petroleum products do not affect polyethylene.
• Laying foil polyethylene is easy and simple by hand, because it weighs little and is thin enough. Foil insulation is designed in such a way that it reflects heat back into the room. It does not transfer heat to the external environment. Therefore, it should be laid with the reflective side up.

Penoizol

Penoizol-liquid foam.

It is good because it is poured into all the cracks and hard-to-reach places.

Insulation is especially necessary when building a house, because it fills all the air voids and thereby retains heat.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is one of the best floor insulators of our time.

Wood chip heaters include:

• plywood;
• cellulose wadding;
• sawdust.

Ecowool

Ecowool is a loose cellulose material. It is poured automatically or manually, closing the most inaccessible places. Cotton wool is poured into special pumps, and it passes through thick pipes into the room. Ecowool is not liquid.

The disadvantage of ecowool is its fear of moisture, so it is not recommended to use this material in rooms with excessive humidity.

sawdust materials

By themselves, sawdust for insulation is not used, because it does not meet fire safety requirements. Basically for insulation use:

1. sawdust pellets;
2. wood concrete;
3. wood blocks.

Wood blocks are sawdust with the addition of copper sulfate and cement.

Sawdust pellets are obtained by adding antiseptics to them, due to which they are resistant to the appearance of microorganisms. Sawdust granules have low thermal conductivity, high soundproofing properties.

Arbolit-wood concrete. It is fire resistant. It has increased strength, can quickly restore its shape after excessive loads. Perfectly absorbs sound waves, retains heat.

Its disadvantage is low moisture resistance. If you want to make a heater from wood concrete, then the humidity in the apartment should not exceed 75%. A finishing protective layer should be laid on top of the wood concrete.

One of the popular heaters is cork. This is the best insulation for linoleum, but also the most expensive. Cork fiber is obtained by processing oak wood. The wood is crushed, the particles are glued together with suberin, which is part of the oak. They are steamed and pressed to form cork fibre. The material is completely natural, it does not include any polymer additives. The material is durable, moisture resistant, lightweight. Due to its structure (it consists of cells, each of which is filled with a gaseous substance), it is considered the best heat insulator.

Cork fiber can be used as an underlay and as an independent floor covering.

How to lay insulation on the floor

Different heaters need to be laid in different ways.

Mineral wool is laid between the lags. But glass wool should be well insulated so that when it wears out, dust does not get into the apartment. It is very important to leave a ventilation gap.

Ecowool laying

Laying with ecowool occurs mechanically or manually. Small particles of ecowool pass through the hose, and the operator directs the material with glue added to it to the wall or floor with air. Sticking. particles of ecowool and create a heat-insulating layer. Wool is applied to the floors manually, both in liquid and dry ways. She just falls asleep between the lags. A vapor barrier membrane is placed on top, and then wooden floors. The price of ecowool insulation together with work is 2200 per cubic meter in a dry way and 2800 in a wet way.

Expanded clay laying

There are 3 options for laying such a heater as expanded clay:

First you need to sweep the floor, remove construction debris. It is necessary to lay a PVC film or a special vapor barrier layer. Mark the level of the screed. Then glue a 10 cm wide edge tape to leave a gap from the walls. Fill the floor with expanded clay, level it with a rule, fill it with a screed on top. It is possible to separate the screed with a waterproofing layer;

Styrofoam laying

Expanded polystyrene is laid, and then poured with cement or concrete. This is a floating screed.

Logs are placed under the wooden floors, and foam is placed between them.

The third way to lay the foam is to lay it on a concrete floor, and on top of them, sheets of plywood.

Polyurethane foam application technology

First you need to prepare the base: remove the garbage. Irregularities of the base when laying polyurethane foam do not matter. The main thing is that there are no oil stains on the surface, otherwise there will be no reliable adhesion of the insulation to the base in this place. You should pay attention to the humidity of the floor, it should not exceed 5%. The air temperature must be maintained at least +10 degrees. Polyurethane foam is applied through a special nozzle. Components A and B are mixed and sprayed. The material must be evenly distributed using special equipment over the surface of the base. The specialist himself regulates the thickness of the polyurethane foam layer. The insulation dries within 24-48 hours. If the insulation is placed between the wooden logs, then after the material has dried, the installation of the finishing coating can be done. If polyurethane foam is placed on a concrete base, then a cement-sand screed must be poured on top of it, which will protect the heat-insulating layer.

Today we told you about floor heaters. We revealed the advantages of each of them, reported on the features of their styling. And which one is better, you choose. We hope you make the right choice.

The problem of insulation outside and inside the dwelling is acute in any climate zone. The main task is to choose the right thermal insulation material. And it's not as easy as it seems. It is necessary to know such properties of insulation as thermal conductivity, water absorption, strength, service life, as well as the subtleties of installation.

The process of insulation usually affects all the structures of a dwelling - walls, floors, ceilings. External insulation or combined insulation (inside + from the street side) is preferable. Thermal insulation only from inside the dwelling is undesirable, since the dew point will move even deeper into the wall or move to the border of the wall and insulation.

Thus, it is not enough to optimally select a heat-insulating material; it is necessary to properly install it.

Important. The stove (inside) and chimney (outside) also need to be insulated. If this is not done, the walls close to the furnace will crack. An uninsulated chimney is covered inside with condensate, which, mixing with exhaust gases, turns into acid. It quickly corrodes the walls of the chimney, rendering it unusable.

What are heaters

Modern thermal insulation materials are diverse. In private housing construction, along with high-tech insulation (polyurethane foam, penoizol), natural insulation is still used. This is due to their availability and low cost.

The following thermal insulation materials are used inside and outside to insulate walls, ceilings and floors:

• expanded clay (concrete attic and interfloor floors are insulated with this material from the inside, expanded clay is also poured into the cavity between the walls);
• cork (wall and floor insulation from the inside);
• ecowool (walls, floors, attic - it is preferable to insulate from the inside due to such material properties as hygroscopicity);
• mineral wool (walls, floors, attic floor - suitable for insulation both inside and outside);
• foam (outside walls, concrete screed);
• penoplex (due to such a property as low water absorption, it is possible to insulate walls from the inside and outside, concrete screed, roofing, interfloor and attic floors);
• penoizol (walls and floors - it is preferable to insulate from the inside, the property of penoizol to absorb water well requires accuracy with external insulation);
• polyurethane foam (any surface, including metal and plastic pipes for hot and cold water supply - insulation inside and from the street).

Mineral wool refers to non-combustible insulation, so it is used for thermal insulation of stoves and chimneys.

Thermal insulation materials for walls

Wall insulation is best done outside during the construction phase. Wall thermal insulation materials are divided into natural and artificial. There is also a division into bulk, plate / mat, roll and foil roll.

Natural heaters include:

• mats and roll insulation made of hemp and algae (rare and expensive insulation, suitable for thermal insulation of walls);
• clay plaster (adobe);

Artificial thermal insulation materials for walls are:

• expanded polystyrene (regular and extruded);
• polyurethane foam (sprayed thermal insulation);
• penoizol (poured into the cavity);
• ecowool (cellulose loose insulation);
• mineral wool (stone/basalt) in rolls, slabs, mats;
• thin roll insulation with or without foil.

Characteristics of thermal insulation materials (comparative) can be seen below.

This parameter is measured in W / m * K. The lower the thermal conductivity, the better the material retains heat in the living space.

This parameter is directly related to the density of the insulation. Loose thermal insulation has a much lower thermal conductivity than solid insulation:

Styrofoam 0.045

Penoplex 0.032

Polyurethane foam 0.019 - 0.035

Penoizol 0.028 - 0.038

Ecowool 0.038 – 0.045

Mineral wool 0.045 - 0.07

Measured in %/day. An important technical characteristic showing how quickly thermal insulation materials absorb water. A high score is not a reason to stop using it. Insulation with high water absorption capacity requires careful double-sided waterproofing.

Comparative characteristics of materials:

Mineral wool 2

It is measured in mg/(m.h.Pa). The characteristic shows how much the material breathes. All breathable insulation can be used to insulate wooden walls. According to experts, the vapor permeability of the insulation is not always useful. Often the complete clogging of pores and the organization of micro-ventilation are much more effective.

Comparative characteristics of vapor permeability:

Styrofoam 0.018

Polyurethane foam 0.04 - 0.05

Penoizol 0.21 - 0.24

Mineral wool and ecowool 0.3

Durability

This parameter is very important for thermal insulation. If the other characteristics of several heaters are the same, then it is this parameter that tips the scales in favor of choosing the most durable insulation.

Styrofoam ≤ 13

Penoplex up to 40

Polyurethane foam up to 50

Penoizol up to 75

Ecowool at least 50

Mineral wool at least 70 years old

After analyzing this data, you can form your own opinion about different heaters and choose the ones that are best suited for your purposes.

Important. natural thermal insulation materials from hemp and algae have low thermal conductivity, but absorb water well, which, coupled with high cost, makes them unpopular for insulating walls from the outside and from the inside.

The exception is expanded clay and cork. The first is poured between the walls in the well masonry and spilled with cement milk. This prevents the material from settling and increases its strength. This wall insulation is cheap, buying it is also not a problem. To reduce the thermal conductivity of insulated walls, it is necessary to mix expanded clay of various fractions.

Cork is an excellent thermal insulator. Its properties are such that cold cannot penetrate into an insulated room, and heat cannot leave it. In addition, it does not absorb water and has an attractive appearance. True, the cost of such a heater is significant, so it is more often used for finishing walls with additional thermal insulation properties.

Floor heaters

Of the many heaters for thermal insulation of the floor, expanded clay and foam plastic are often used (less often foam plastic, since it is much more expensive than foam plastic). Cork can also be used to insulate the floor (as a substrate for linoleum or carpet, as well as a finish). The properties of this material are unique. It does not absorb water spilled on the floor, perfectly dampens noise, has a velvety texture to the touch. Its surface is never cold.

Expanded clay is used to insulate the floor in the attic. It strongly absorbs moisture, so it is necessary to make double-sided waterproofing. Because of this characteristic, it is not recommended to insulate a wooden hemmed attic floor with expanded clay (material that accidentally picks up moisture increases significantly in weight).

High density foam is ideal for insulating floors in cement screed. The same can be said about penoplex, although it is more expensive, so it is used much less frequently for floor insulation.

Mineral wool is another insulation that can be used to insulate both the floors between floors and the attic. Due to hygroscopicity, mineral wool requires double-sided waterproofing.

The technology of floor insulation with foam plastic includes several stages:

1. Preparation of the base (cleaning from debris and dust).
2. Floor treatment with deep penetration primers.
3. Laying a waterproofing film (necessarily with a call to the walls, the joints are glued with construction tape).
4. The foam is fixed to the floor with glue, the joints are coated with sealant.
5. Be sure to leave a gap between the walls and the insulation.
6. A special reinforcing mesh is installed on the insulated floor (it is mounted on racks and is located at a distance of 2.5 - 3 cm above the level of insulation).
7. It remains to fill the floor with a self-leveling mixture.

Ceiling heaters

It is possible to insulate the ceiling from the inside only if the height of the room allows it. For these purposes, aerated concrete slabs are well suited. They weigh very little and are easily attached with foam board adhesive. The joints are covered with sealant. Additionally, foil insulation can be laid.

Styrofoam and foam plastic, as well as mineral wool, are used only from the side of the attic (as described above).

Heat insulating roll materials

Thin rolled polyethylene foam insulation is a weak obstacle to cold air entering the room through micropores and cracks. However, foil roll materials are a great addition to the insulation pie.

Foil thermal insulation (penofol, foil isolon) laid on top of any insulation will play a dual role - repulsive thermal insulation and waterproofing. In this case, there is no need to purchase separately waterproofing materials.

Advice. Rolled foil heaters are demanding for installation. They will not work if, for example, lining is laid directly on them. A working gap between the foil and the finish is required. Therefore, on top of rolled foil insulation, a crate is always made with a thickness of bars of at least 3 cm.

Various types of heat-insulating materials (bulk, roll, slab) allow for the insulation of various surfaces - walls, ceilings, floors. Refractory thermal insulation (non-combustible) is suitable for insulating furnaces (not the furnace itself, but nearby walls are insulated).