Filling the subfloor on the ground sequence. Concrete floors on the ground Filling the subfloor on the ground

For low grillages and strip foundations, the installation of a concrete floor on the ground allows you to save the construction budget and get rid of the underground, harmful radon emissions. The floor on the ground is a rough screed, it cannot serve as a finishing layer, it requires decoration with floor coverings. But in the pie of this design, insulation and waterproofing are laid, operating costs for heating are reduced, and the operational life of the building is increased.

The cheapest lower level option after the earth floor, which is currently not used anywhere, is the floor on the ground. IN building codes SP 31-105 indicates the installation of floors on the ground with three minimum layers:

crushed stone bedding with a minimum thickness of 10 cm;
polyethylene film 0.15 mm;
concrete slab with a minimum thickness of 10 cm.

To ensure the mobility of the structure, the junction with the wall is organized through a damper layer, which solves several problems:

damping of vibrations and structural noise;
lack of a rigid connection with the elements of the foundation or basement to avoid destruction;
providing an air gap to compensate for the linear expansion of the material.

During possible subsidence and swelling of the base soils, the floor slab moves freely along the ground in a vertical level without destroying the plinth, grillage or MZLF.

The need for the remaining layers of the floor cake on the ground is due to the improvement in the performance of the structure:

footing - a screed of lean (B7.5) concrete to ensure flat surface when laying rolled waterproofing and sealing joints, protecting the material from multiple punctures with sharp edges of crushed stone;
thermal insulation - a carpet made of extruded high-density polystyrene foam allows you to keep the heat of the bowels under the building, due to this, completely get rid of frost swelling, increase the operational life of the foundation and reduce heat loss in the floors;
reinforcing belt - perceives tensile loads in the lower level of the screed;
underfloor heating contours - increase the comfort of living, reduce heating costs.

Important! When using wire mesh to reinforce the screed and the contours of the warm floor, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the structure - the diameter of the pipes + 2 cm.

Assignment of the floor on the ground

A concrete screed is necessary to provide a rigid base when installing floor coverings. load-bearing structure this plate is not, it is forbidden to support stoves, stairs and partitions on the floor on the ground. However, the manufacture of the foundation under the internal bearing walls is expensive, so the following technology is used:

a stiffening rib is made under the partition along the entire length;
a gap is created in the upper layer of insulation, into which a reinforcing cage is laid, connected to the floor grid along the ground.

Floor stiffener on the ground under the partition.

Important! This option is not suitable for supporting internal stairs made of reinforced concrete, rolled steel.

In baths and showers, the screed allows you to create slopes for gravity removal of drains. In other ways, it is more difficult and expensive to do this.

Manufacturing technology

Before pouring the floor on the ground, it is necessary to prepare the base and lay all the layers of the structure. It is advisable to lay the mixture in one go, use beacons and fine fraction concrete filler.

Underlayment

Before pouring the floor in the premises of the dwelling, one should take into account the nuances of the base soils:

despite the fact that the floors on the ground are made of concrete of class B12 and higher, they are easily destroyed when the soil shrinks under them, so the fertile layer should be removed completely;
the underlying layer of non-metallic material must be compacted in layers of 15 cm maximum with a vibrating plate or manual rammer;
sand has capillary absorption of soil water, it is used only at low GWL from 1.5 m;
crushed stone can be used on wet soil, since capillary rise is not possible in this material.

To reduce the construction budget and improve the quality of living, it is important at the initial stage to plan the level of the floor on the ground in all rooms of the building, taking into account the requirements:

step near front door extremely inconvenient to use, the flooring should be flush with the threshold;
it is forbidden to rest the coupler on the protruding relatively internal walls basement or foundation elements;
when compacting sand, it is forbidden to spill it with water; a layer of watering can should be moistened.

Advice! At limited budget you can do without footing by leveling the crushed stone layer with sand. In this case, the film, membrane or rolled waterproofing will not be torn by rubble stones. However, the surface of the underlying layer in this case must be shed with cement milk to form a crust, for the convenience of sealing the waterproofing joints.

Underlayment and waterproofing

The main requirement for a waterproofing layer is its continuity. Therefore, problems arise:

rolled bituminous materials (Bikrost, TechnoNIKOL) and polymer films are difficult to lay on the ground properly, since when walking on them, the joints diverge in the future;
heavy EPDM membranes have a large format, fit without joints, but are very expensive.

Therefore, at first, a footing 5–10 cm thick is poured, providing a rigid, even base for gluing a plastic film or fusing bituminous material.

Important! The footing is also forbidden to be rigidly connected to the elements of the foundation or basement. This layer does not need to be reinforced; lean concrete with a minimum cement content can be used.

It is not enough to know how to make a floor on the ground correctly, it is important to place the layers of the construction pie relative to each other in the right order:

many individual developers lay insulation on the footing or on the underlying layer and cover it with waterproofing from above;
or duplicate the film under the insulation and on top of it, increasing the cost of the construction budget.

Both options do not provide any advantages, since the membrane, film or roll material must prevent the extruded polystyrene foam and the top tie from getting wet soil moisture, which can also be in the vapor state.

Under normal conditions (permanent heating), the temperature under concrete slab and the insulation is always lower than in the room. Therefore, the penetration of excessively humid air from the room into the floor along the ground is impossible according to the laws of physics. Vapor barrier inside this structure is not needed and even harmful.

Important! Bituminous roll materials are welded onto the footing in two layers with an overlap of 15 cm at least perpendicular to each other. Films are glued in two layers in any direction. The EPDM membrane is mounted in one layer.

More details: .

Insulation and damper layer

The floor on the ground performs the functions of an overlap, but does not have a rigid pinch along the perimeter. That's why insulating properties of this technology, by default, is higher than in joist slabs and for PB, PC slabs:

the lower layer of insulation reduces or completely eliminates heat loss at the junction points with the base;
the floating screed is cut off from the walls with a damper layer, structural noise and vibrations are not transmitted to the room;
quality concrete surface higher than slabs, no need for grouting and leveling screed;
there is no underground, respectively, and harmful accumulations of radon gas from the ground;

Important! The damper layer is usually a special tape or strips of expanded polystyrene. Tape pasted over the perimeter of the base or foundation. Insulation strips are installed on the edge close to the walls along the entire height of the screed cake, starting from the sole of the footing.

Thickness thermal insulation material depends on the region of operation, is 5 - 15 cm. Expanded polystyrene boards are laid apart, the joints are filled with mounting foam.

Communications and reinforcement

The floor on the ground built according to the specified technology is a floating slab. Therefore, before laying the mixture, it is necessary to bring into the premises risers of engineering systems - heating, cold water / hot water, sewerage. Electricity and gas lines are separated at the finishing stage, grounding - depending on the specific building project.

Advice! The maintainability of communication input nodes is zero by default. Therefore, it is increased by laying risers inside pipes of larger diameter, from which, if necessary, a clogged sewer or a rusted water supply pipe can be pulled out for replacement without destroying the screed.

To done on your own the warm floor had a margin of safety in case of possible redevelopment; the structure is often reinforced in the lower third. For this, wire meshes Vr, corresponding to GOST 6727, produced in rolls and cards, are optimally suited.

Reinforcement is made in one layer, the overlap is at least one cell, meshes are laid to provide a lower protective layer on concrete or plastic gaskets.

Mixing and concrete care

The best option is to concret the screed in one step with a mixture that is made at the factory and delivered to the building site by a mixer. The main difficulty when laying concrete is the impossibility of walking on a wire mesh. Therefore, fill options are applied:

ladders - in the cells of the grid, gaskets suitable for the format are installed (pieces of brick, pieces of timber), on which the boards rest, as they move, they are rearranged to a new place;
“paths” - since the pouring starts from the corners farthest from the doorway, concrete is poured in the direction of the master to the workplace, the mesh inside the concrete receives the necessary rigidity, you can walk along the resulting paths without mixing reinforcement in neighboring areas.

The installation of beacons increases the productivity and quality of the screed. Depending on the thickness of the layer, plaster beacons or a profile for GKL systems are used.

Important! If the project includes a warm floor, its contours are laid on top of the wire mesh before pouring. In this case, the thickness of the screed automatically increases. You can turn on the heating only after curing structural material 70%.

Technology nuances

According to the technology, partitions must be based on their own foundation. For flights of stairs and heavy heating appliances slabs or grillages are poured on piles. However, individual developers often violate these technologies by erecting light partitions on the floors on the ground. In this case, the structure should be reinforced in advance with stiffeners towards the ground:

in places where the partition passes, a gap is created in the insulation;
a reinforcing cage is installed in the resulting cavity by analogy with a strip foundation.

If the thickness of the heat-insulating layer is insufficient, the base under the stiffening rib is additionally deepened by 20 - 40 cm. This allows you to ensure the continuity of the insulation layer and eliminate cold bridges.

Thus, the ground floor budget can be adjusted at the design stage depending on available funds and geological conditions. All works are available for independent execution for home master with minimal building experience.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and offers with prices from construction teams and firms will come to your mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

From this article you will learn:

What are the advantages of a subfloor on the ground
What layers should the rough floor on the ground consist of
How to make a rough floor on the ground with your own hands
What do professionals advise regarding the subfloor on the ground

Building a house in Moscow is a long and multi-stage process, different nature and complexity: laying the foundation, erecting walls, roofing, finishing and a host of other processes. Among the main stages of construction - rough finish, in particular - pouring the screed. Its essence is to create a base on which a finishing coating will subsequently be installed. finishing materials. Despite the fact that the draft floor on the ground is often subject to a builder of any qualification, it has a number of nuances and requires various kinds works. This article will talk about them.

What does a draft floor on the ground mean?

This method is applicable to any type of soil, regardless of the degree of proximity. groundwater. A high-quality and reliable rough screed on the ground is provided with concrete grade M300 and higher. In particular, a higher grade of concrete should be used for floors that are expected to be heavily loaded or if the soil properties are unsatisfactory. IN this case a reinforcing mesh must also be installed.

All recommended parameters of the necessary materials are indicated in the design estimates. If there are none, it is necessary to make the appropriate calculations yourself, taking into account all the conditions for the further operation of the floors.

Benefits of a subfloor on the ground

Among the advantages of carrying out a screed on the ground, the following are distinguished:

Subfloor layers on the ground

In order for the filling of the subfloor on the ground to be of high quality, it is necessary to take into account all the following layers:

compacted base;
mixture of peeled and sifted river sand with gravel;
rough concrete screed;
vapor barrier membrane or other insulating material;
insulation made of expanded polystyrene or other similar material;

polyethylene film;
reinforced concrete screed;
flooring, which, if necessary, can be laid on a special substrate.

This diagram is not the final version. The stages may vary depending on the characteristics of the soil, types floor covering and other nuances.

Do-it-yourself rough floor on the ground: step by step instructions

Step 1. We prepare the base.

First of all, the zero point is searched using a level (and adjusted for the relief and surface level). This will make it possible to objectively assess the scope of the forthcoming work with the soil. The surface of the earth is carefully compacted in order to reduce the risk of subsidence of the soil and cracking of the finished floor.

the first layer should be 25% higher than necessary;
the poured layer is moistened and rammed, due to which the thickness comes in line with the original calculation;
compaction is carried out by means of a vibrating machine or a roller.

A layer of gravel or expanded clay is poured on top of the sand, which will make the sand layer denser and become a solid foundation for the following layers.

Step 2. We produce sub-floor concrete.

The first layer of the subfloor is lean concrete. It performs technical functions, being the basis for vapor and waterproofing. For the rough screed, lean concrete (class B 7.5-10) with crushed stone filler (fraction: 5-20 mm) is used. When using gravel bedding, the screed can be poured with concrete of class 50-75.

Filling the first screed is not troublesome and does not require adherence to precise technology. The thickness of the rough layer should vary between 40-50 mm and not exceed 4 mm horizontally in accordance with the level.

Step 3. We carry out waterproofing of the rough base.

To eliminate capillary suction of moisture from the soil, waterproofing of the floor should be carried out.

The most suitable for waterproofing will be bitumen in rolls or a polymer membrane. Sometimes a gasket made of a single piece of thick polyethylene film is allowed. If the material is joined, it must be overlapped, followed by sealing the seams with construction tape. It is necessary to inspect the surface of the materials for integrity damage or manufacturing defects.
The insulating sheet is displayed on the walls by about 15-20 cm. After laying finishing screed, extra fragments of the material are removed.
Sometimes it is impossible to lay waterproofing in front of the rough screed. In this case, a concrete base is poured, on which a coating waterproofing layer of bitumen or polymer is applied.

Step 4. Insulation of the subfloor on the ground.

The next step is the installation of a vapor barrier layer. The most suitable material for this is a polymer-bitumen membrane, based on fiberglass or polyester. Despite high quality and strength, the price of such material will pleasantly surprise you. A more expensive analogue of such a material is a polyvinyl chloride membrane. However, in this case high price- is by no means an indicator of durability. In practice, such material is subject to rotting and other damage.

The vapor barrier layer will help save a lot of money on space heating, because the level of heat loss during its use is reduced by 20%. The lining of this layer serves key point to create warmth and comfort in the house.

Warming is carried out using materials such as:

Extruded polystyrene foam is one of the the best options insulation that protects the floor from frequent deformations during compression and withstands heavy loads.

A variety of polystyrene foam is PSB50 and PSB35 class foam. The first option is for garages, storage or industrial premises, the second - for dwellings. To avoid damage to the foam plastic with cement mortar, foam sheets are sheathed on both sides with a polyethylene film. Such insulation will be quite reliable.

Another common option for insulation is mineral wool. However, such a material is able to quickly absorb moisture from the cement layer and screed. Therefore, as in the case of foam, mineral wool must be insulated on both sides with a polyethylene film.

Step 5. Reinforcement.

It is important not to confuse the rough floor screed on the ground with the foundation, which experiences loads from heaving forces. In this regard, a single-layer reinforcement with a welded mesh of rods with a diameter of 3-5 mm will be sufficient.

It is important to take into account some of the nuances:

The mesh should be laid as close as possible to the base of the structure (in the concrete tension zone).
The thickness of the protective layer should be from 1.5 to 2 cm, so the mesh is mounted on polymer or concrete pads placed on polystyrene foam.

Along the perimeter, the structure must be protected with a similar layer. Most often, cards with a cell from 10x10 to 15x15 cm are used. In this case, the overlap must affect at least one cell. The contour of the warm floor is placed on the grid and fixed with nylon clamps.

Step 6. Damper layer and fill.

The screed is separated from the walls, grillage, plinth and foundation by means of a damper layer. It is formed from strips of expanded polystyrene installed on the edge, which are placed along the perimeter of the enclosing structures. Another option is to stick a special tape on the walls also around the entire perimeter. The height of such a damper must exceed the thickness of the subfloor on the ground. Excess parts will be cut off at the stage of installation of the plinth.

It is worth noting that the screed of the subfloor on the ground is done in one step to ensure the greatest resource of the structure. For large areas (over 50 m2), expansion joints are created from a special profile.

To make it easier to level the layers, plaster beacons are often used, which are attached to a quick-hardening solution of gypsum or starting putty.

Then a mixture is applied between the beacons, which is leveled by the rule. Beacons can be left embedded in the floor or removed after the mixture has set a little. The resulting gutters can be filled with concrete and leveled again. To prevent cracking, the surface must be moistened periodically during the first 3 days.

Answers from professionals to popular questions about finishing screed

To save money in general and ensure better exploitation in particular, some builders sometimes try to replace the recommended materials for a rough floor screed on the ground with others.

Is it advisable to change crushed stone to expanded clay for adding screed?

Such original solution can provide additional thermal insulation. However, professionals do not recommend using expanded clay for soil with closely spaced groundwater, which can lead to wetting of this material.

Can crushed brick or other construction waste be used instead of gravel?

The use of such materials is strongly discouraged. Brick is not a waterproof material, it absorbs water and quickly collapses. Consequently, such a draft floor on the ground will lose its strength and integrity. In addition, waste and broken brick have a different fraction, so it will not be possible to compact them tightly.

Is it possible to install hydroprotection only under rough screed and not to use it again?

The answer is negative. Firstly, the polyethylene film is responsible for other functions: it prevents the cement laitance from leaving the solution. Secondly, after some time, the waterproofing loses its tightness and breaks under the influence of uneven point loads on the floor.

Is it possible to replace the rough screed by spilling the floor on the ground?

Spilling involves spilling onto the bedding under the rough screed with a special layer of liquid solution. Its height depends both on the thickness of the bedding layers and on the intensity of compaction. If the bedding is very dense, the liquid solution will not be able to penetrate more than 4-6 cm. As a result, the bearing performance of the floor base will be reduced. Thus, the answer to this question must be given, taking into account the possible loads on the floor surface.

Draft floor on the ground for a warm floor

The design of a warm floor on the ground will be optimal subject to the following steps:

How much does a rough floor on the ground cost

Detailed cost of work subfloor on the ground is displayed in the price lists of various construction and repair organizations. They can be found on the websites of these companies. You can also find out the price and get additional advice by phone. In addition, many companies offer a free visit of a measuring consultant to your facility in order to calculate the price as accurately as possible, taking into account all possible nuances and wishes.

Cooperate with the company "My Repair" - it is reliable and prestigious. The people who work here are professionals. the highest level. The company "My Repair" operates throughout Moscow and the Moscow region.

At self erection country house or baths on a strip foundation, in areas with a low groundwater level, it makes sense to make a concrete floor on the ground with your own hands . This technology is the fastest, most economical and eliminates the need for special equipment.

In addition, such a floor construction has a higher reliability and durability than floors on the ground without concrete, and does not require additional maintenance during operation.

Features of laying the floor on the ground

In order to study this issue in detail, this article will consider the installation of a concrete floor on the ground in residential buildings with a strip foundation.

In addition, the reader will be offered detailed instructions that present the concrete floor technology on the ground with step by step description implementation of all technological stages of construction.

Stage 1: preparatory work

It is recommended to start work on arranging the floor after the walls of the building are erected, window and door openings are closed and the roof is installed, and the average daily ambient temperature does not fall below + 5 ° С.

Before pouring the concrete floor onto the ground, it is necessary to make a sand and gravel cushion:

The area of land within the boundaries of the foundation should be cleared of construction debris and take off upper layer soil to a depth of 200-300 mm. Compact the surface of the earth with manual tamper or vibrating plates.
Make markings along the inner perimeter of the walls of the building, outlining the zero mark of the subfloor. Using a hydraulic level, check that the zero mark is at the same height in all rooms.
Fill the compacted soil with sand and gravel, which consists of a layer of gravel, 50 mm thick and a layer of sand, 100-150 mm thick.
Moisten the surface of the pillow with plenty of water., compact, then pour a thin layer of crushed stone with a particle fraction of 40-60 mm.
Sprinkle lightly with sand then moisten with water and tamp again.

Note!

When backfilling a sand and gravel cushion, it is necessary to control using building level so that all layers of the backfill are strictly parallel to the horizon.

Stage 2: pouring a monolithic slab

The next stage of construction is the manufacture of a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which will perform load-bearing functions and take on the entire main load on the floor. For this reason, it must be reinforced steel mesh, and its thickness should be at least 80-100 mm.

Waterproofing. Lay waterproofing from a thick polyethylene film on a sand and gravel cushion so that it goes onto the walls to a height of at least 500 mm.
Reinforcing strapping. On low spacers, lay a metal reinforcing mesh on the floor so that at the joints it has an overlap of at least 100 mm.
fill concrete. Prepare a concrete solution and evenly distribute it over the entire area of the room with a layer of at least 80 mm thick.
alignment surfaces. Using a level, by measuring the distance to the marks of the finished floor, check that the filled surface is strictly horizontal.

After the mortar has set, the surface must be left for at least one week until the concrete has completely cured. Diamond drilling of holes in concrete using a special power tool.

Note!

All engineering Communication it is recommended to lay before pouring the slab, however, if this has not been done in advance, it can be used laterA cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels after solidification of the monolith.

Stage 3: insulation and waterproofing

The concrete floor, in contact with the ground, is a source of moisture and cold penetration, therefore, to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the house, thorough heat and waterproofing of the concrete floor on the ground is necessary.

Water-repellent materials and insulation are stacked in several layers:

As a waterproofing, you can use a thick polyethylene film but it is best to cover the surface monolithic slab layer of liquid hot bitumen.
Thermal insulation can be done in two ways: In the first case, a layer of blast-furnace slag or expanded clay with a thickness of 100-200 mm is poured over the entire surface of the slab, but this material is hygroscopic and can absorb moisture.
The second option is considered more acceptable. and consists in laying plates of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) with a thickness of 50-100 mm on the floor.
Expanded clay filling should be distributed evenly, and lay the XPS boards tightly, without gaps, on the floor and secure with dowels with wide plastic washers.
Another layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the insulation from a thick polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns, on top of which a reinforcing mesh is laid.

Note!

floodingconcrete floor in the garage on the ground,you can do without thermal insulation, but high-quality waterproofing must be performed in any case.

Stage 4: installation of concrete screed

The finishing screed serves to evenly distribute the load and lay the finishing floor covering ( ceramic tile, linoleum, laminate), so it must have the same thickness and a smooth, uniform surface. The quality of this stage of work should be given Special attention, because the cost of rework, in the event of a violation of technology, may be too high.

How to fill concrete screed:

Installation of beacons. Using cement or gypsum mortar over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room at a distance of at least 1 meter from each other, install guide rails beacons that determine the upper level of the subfloor.
Solution pouring. Starting from the far corner of the room, fill each section of the floor, evenly distributing the cement-sand mortar over the entire surface of the filled area.
Surface leveling. To do this, you need to use a metal or wooden rule, moving it with vibrating movements along the guide beacons.
Floor screed. Thus, when moving from one section to another, it is necessary to fill the entire room, which is recommended to be completed in one working day.
Crack grouting. After the mortar has set, it is necessary to remove the beacon guides, and wipe the resulting cracks with a fresh cement-sand mortar.

Upon completion of this operation, the room must be left for several days until the final hardening and drying. cement mortar. After 2-3 weeks, the floor surface must be primed. For this purpose, it is best to use an epoxy or polyurethane primer for concrete, which must be applied using a construction roller.

Clause 1 indicates the manufacturing recipe cement-sand mortar for a clean screed.
In paragraph 2, the recipe for the manufacture of a concrete solution for pouring a monolithic slab is indicated.

Conclusion

After reading this article, it becomes clear that independent production concrete floor in country house quite within the power of almost any home master.

To obtain Additional information on this issue, you can watch the video in this article or read similar materials on our site. I am ready to answer all your questions in the comments.

In the process of construction and arrangement basements, garages, various outbuildings, and sometimes even residential premises (of course, in regions with a warm mild climate), developers often prefer technology that involves the construction of a concrete floor on the ground.

After reviewing the information below, you will receive all the necessary information to independently conduct the event in question, refusing to involve third-party craftsmen in this work and significantly saving on the construction of the floor.

Before giving preference to the technology of the device of the design in question, familiarize yourself with key requirements to the soil shown in the following table.

Table. Soil requirements for a reliable concrete floor

Additionally, requirements are made directly to the building itself. It is important that the house is used for permanent residence or at least heated during the cold season. Otherwise, the ground will freeze, causing the concrete structure to deform.

Scheme of floors on the ground for a private house, garage, utility room

Concrete flooring technology on the ground

We do the floor after the completion of the construction of the walls and the arrangement of the roof / ceiling. Direct work on the arrangement of the structure under consideration on the ground consists of several technological stages, the sequence of which is given below.

First stage. Marking the floor level

First we need to set the zero level of the future floor. To do this, we do the following:

Second phase. Clearing and compacting the soil

Let's move on to the stage pre-training soil. First we need to get rid of construction debris, if any. Next, we remove the top ball of soil. Traditionally, a multilayer concrete floor structure has a thickness of about 30-35 cm. We dig until the distance between the previously laid zero level line and the bottom of the pit reaches the specified value.

After that, we need to tamp and level the surface. Best Tool to perform this work - a special vibrating plate for tamping the soil. In the absence of such, we take a simple log, nail strong handles on top of it, nail a board from below and use the resulting device to compact the soil. We work until we get a fairly dense and even base. Special checks are not required: it is enough to walk along the ground and, if there are no indentations from the legs in it, we proceed to next step work.

Manual digging is never perfectly accurate. If the depth of the pit turned out to be more than the required thickness of the future concrete structure, we fill the difference with a layer of sand and carefully compact it.

Helpful advice! You can use another solution to the above problem, first laying a layer of clay, spilling it with water, tamping it, filling it with sand and further compacting it. Such a system will provide additional waterproofing of the future concrete structure, preventing groundwater penetrate into its structure.

Third stage. We make backfill

We fall asleep a 5-10 cm layer of gravel. We spill the backfill with water and thoroughly tamp. For greater convenience, we can pre-drive several rows of rebar trimmings or other similar material of the required length into the ground - this will make it easier for us to provide the required backfill height. It is important that the trimmings are set strictly according to the level. After arranging each planned layer, the pegs can be removed.

On top of the gravel, we pour about a 10-centimeter layer of sand. The pegs from the previous stage will help us control the thickness of the backfill. To carry out this event, it is not necessary to use sifted material - even ravine sand with minor impurities will do. The sand is also thoroughly tamped.

On top of the sand we fall asleep a layer of gravel. The material of a fraction of 4-5 cm is optimally suited. We compact the crushed stone. We pour a thin layer of sand on top, carefully level it and thoroughly tamp it down. If gravel with sharply protruding edges is found, we remove it or shift it so that there are no sharp corners throughout the plane.

Important! Each layer of backfill must be level. Similar requirements are imposed on the layers of the “pie” that are further equipped.

Fourth stage. We install moisture and heat insulating materials

To protect concrete from the harmful effects of moisture, we use a special waterproofing membrane or an ordinary polyethylene film. Optimally suitable material with a thickness of 200 microns. The work is carried out in an extremely simple sequence: we lay out the film on the base, bringing its edges a couple of centimeters above the zero level indicated in the previous stages, we lay the insulation sheets directly with a 10-15 cm overlap, and fix the joints with adhesive tape.

The structure can be insulated using a wide variety of materials, here is just a short list:

expanded clay;
mineral wool boards;
Styrofoam;
roll isolon, etc.

We lay the selected material, following the provisions of the relevant technology, and proceed to further work.

Fifth stage. We equip the reinforcing layer

The multilayer concrete structure is subject to mandatory reinforcement. We strengthen the floor with PVC or metal mesh to choose from. Also suitable for this task metal wire and rebar bars. They must first be tied into a grid (we select the size of the cells in accordance with the expected loads: for high ones we take 10x10 cm, for medium ones - 15x15 cm, for low ones 20x20 cm will be enough), using flexible steel wire to fasten the joints.

The reinforcing frame is laid on pre-installed stands having a height of about 20-30 mm.

Important note! In the case of hardening involving plastic mesh, the material is stretched on pegs previously driven into the base.

Sixth stage. We mount guides and formwork

Correct fill concrete mix on the zero level is impossible without the use of guides. We do the following:

Important! Before proceeding to the next stage of work, be sure to check the correct installation of the guides and formwork using a level. If there are differences, you simply cannot make a flat floor. To eliminate irregularities, it is enough to cut off the protruding places. You can raise the guides in the right places by placing bars of a suitable size under them or the same plywood.

Before pouring, be sure to process wooden elements special oil. Thanks to this, in the future we will be able to get the boards out of the solution without any difficulty.

Seventh stage. Pouring concrete and making a screed

Fill in the previously created "maps" concrete mortar. If possible, we try to fill in the entire mass at a time - so we get the most durable monolithic structure. If there is no possibility or desire to order ready-made concrete, we make it ourselves.

Pouring concrete on lighthouses (option without maps)

To do this, we need a concrete mixer or a large suitable container for manual mixing, cement (we use material grades M400-500), a shovel, gravel, sand. We work according to the following recipe: 1 share of cement, 2 shares of sand, 4 shares of gravel and about 0.5 shares of water (it can change, we are guided in the process of work). Thoroughly mix the ingredients until a homogeneous mixture and proceed to further work.

It is most convenient to pour from the corner opposite to the front door - in this case, you do not have to walk on concrete. We pour several cards in 1, maximum 2 doses, level the solution and stretch the mixture. If there is a special vibrator, we use it to compact the mixture.

Formwork around pipelines

Having filled in several "cards", we proceed to leveling the base. A two-meter (possibly longer) rule will help us with this. We install the tool on the previously mounted guides and pull it towards us. So we get rid of excess concrete.

We take out guides and formwork from the processed “cards” (specialists usually do this a day after pouring, some earlier, we focus on the situation). In a similar sequence, we fill the entire site with concrete. After that, cover the base with plastic wrap and leave for a month to gain strength. In the process of drying concrete structure you need to regularly moisten with water so that it does not crack.

In conclusion, it remains for us to fill the screed. To do this, we use a special self-leveling mixture - the most convenient option, the arrangement of which does not require special knowledge and effort.

The leveling mixture will eliminate minor surface imperfections and allow you to get a perfectly even base. We traditionally start working from the corner opposite to the entrance to the room.

We prepare the solution according to the manufacturer's instructions, pour it on the floor and evenly distribute it over the surface using a long rule or other suitable tool. We specify the drying time of the mixture in the instructions, usually it is 2-3 days.

The concrete floor on the ground is ready. We just have to lay the selected flooring. Thanks to a properly equipped flat base, the finish will look beautiful and last as long as possible.

Now you know everything about the construction of a concrete floor on the ground and will be able to independently carry out the necessary activities. You just need to follow the guide and everything will definitely work out.

Successful work!

Video - Construction of a concrete floor on the ground

Filling the subfloor on the ground is one of the laborious, but economical methods of constructing a floor covering. This coating it should be done only when the soil is dry, otherwise all the advantages of the floor will be nullified by serious problems with the waterproofing layer. This design does not require the installation of beams, floor slabs and other elements, the main thing here is to carefully consider the soil base pie, including an insulating layer.

Ground floor pie

In order for the draft floor on the ground to be filled with high quality, it must include the following layers:

Compacted base;
A mixture of purified river sand and gravel;
Rough concrete screed;
Vapor barrier membrane or other insulation material;
A layer of insulation, such as expanded polystyrene or other material;
Polyethylene film;
Concrete screed with reinforcement;
Floor covering, which is laid on a special substrate if necessary.

Undoubtedly, certain adjustments can be made to this scheme, which will depend on the characteristics of the soil, the type of flooring and other factors. Everything makes sense to consider general scheme, on laying the floor on the ground with your own hands.

Foundation preparation

The first step is to determine the zero point using a level, taking into account the relief and surface level. Thanks to this, you will be able to correctly assess the amount of work with the soil. The ground on which the floor is planned to be laid must be carefully compacted to reduce the risk of subsidence of the soil and cracking of the floor itself.

After that, a pillow of sifted river sand is poured onto the recessed base:

The first layer should be 25% thicker than necessary;
The layer is moistened and rammed, due to which the thickness should become in accordance with the calculations;
Compaction can be done with a vibrator or roller.

A layer of expanded clay or gravel is poured on top of the sand, due to which it is possible to compact the sand layer and create solid foundation for subsequent filling.

Draft base waterproofing

In order to completely cut off the capillary suction of ground moisture, it is necessary to perform waterproofing:

It is best in this case to use bituminous roll material or a suitable polymer membrane as a waterproofing. In some cases, it is permissible to use a thick polyethylene sheet, which is laid in one seamless piece. The materials are overlapped, and all joints require gluing with construction tape. At this stage, it is important to ensure that there is no damage in the waterproofing layer: it is not broken through, there are no defects on the surface.
The insulation should go onto the walls 15-20 cm in height, all excess will then be cut off after the final screed.
It happens that it is impossible to lay waterproofing in front of the rough screed, then it is poured concrete base and a coating is applied over it waterproofing material(bitumen or polymer).

Subfloor installation

The device of the subfloor begins with lean concrete. This layer performs technical functions and is the basis for hydro and vapor barrier materials. The rough screed is made of lean concrete of class B 7.5-10. As a filler, crushed stone of a fraction from 5 to 20 mm is used. If gravel bedding is used, a rough screed can be made of class 50-75 concrete. This first screed is done easily and without special requirements. The draft layer should have a thickness of up to 40-50 mm and not exceed 4 mm horizontally after checking with a level.

Pouring a concrete floor on the ground in the video below.

Now you can make a vapor barrier layer. Optimal material for this, a polymer-bitumen membrane based on fiberglass or polyester. It's pretty cheap durable and quality materials. There are also polyvinyl chloride membranes, which are much more expensive and at the same time are prone to rotting and various types of damage. Therefore, choosing a material, be guided not only by price, but also by durability.

Thanks to this layer, you can save on heating your home in the future by reducing heat losses by up to 20%. This insulation is the first step on the way to warmth in the house.

You can insulate with a number of materials:

Expanded polystyrene extruded is one of the most best options for warming. So you protect the floor from permanent deformation during compression and it can withstand significant loads.
Polyfoam PSB50 (garages, warehouses) and PSB35 (for residential premises). In order not to damage the foam layer during its contact with cement, it is necessary to lay a plastic film overlapping 10 cm on both sides of the material. This is a fairly reliable insulation.
Quite often, insulation is also used with mineral wool. However, it tends to actively absorb moisture from cement mortar and screed, therefore, like polystyrene, it is recommended to isolate it on both sides with plastic wrap.

Additional Information:

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