Until recently, we could not even imagine that the repair could be so fast, now it can be done in one day. Modern building materials have appeared that allow you to do the finishing with your own hands very quickly, without the services of hired workers. Recently we have already talked about, and today we will tell and show how to make a false ceiling from plastic panels.
Plastic panels are often used for ceiling cladding in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, loggia or balcony. What is the reason for such popularity, what advantages and disadvantages they have, and how to properly install, we will now tell you.
Plastic suspended ceilings - a metal or wooden frame, which is sheathed with PVC panels. The panels themselves, as they are more commonly called, come in different sizes, but the most popular are 2.7 and 3 meters long and 25 centimeters wide. Inside the panels are hollow with stiffeners, so they are very light and very durable, and on the side edges they have locks for docking, almost like in.
Before sheathing the ceiling with plastic panels, it is necessary to purchase all the components: profiles or bars for the frame, and special PVC ceiling cornices. If you come to the store for them for the first time, then a wide selection of PVC profiles can confuse you. Let's look at their main types and purpose.
Types of plastic profiles for the ceiling
- The start profile is the most used one. With it, you can hide the ends of the panels, to do this, fix them around the perimeter of the room along the line of the new ceiling.
- The outer and inner plastic corner is needed for a beautiful docking in the corners.
- You will need an H-profile if you did not have enough length for one panel - it will connect their ends.
- A plastic ceiling plinth is needed to hide the ends of the panels. In fact, this is a starting profile, but with a decorative border.
- F-profile is needed to hide the ends. It can come in handy if you decide to decorate adjacent walls with different materials.
- Universal plastic corner - a regular corner in the shape of the letter "G". They can hide any joints.
Advantages and disadvantages
Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels has many advantages.
- You can even out any unevenness without removing the old coating.
- You can hide wires, ventilation and other communications in the frame.
- Easy to install built-in lights and lighting.
- Very simple installation process, the design is much simpler than .
- You can install additional insulation from noise, moisture, sound in the frame.
- Installation is carried out by a dry method using dowels and self-tapping screws. This means that you do not need to have special skills for this.
- Moisture-resistant and washable material that is not affected by microorganisms.
- If necessary, you can mount the panels again.
Suspended plastic ceilings have their drawbacks.
- Most of these ceilings look budget, but there are also beautiful colors.
- Buying cheap thin types of panels, you may regret after installation: some of them let in light from recessed lights. You need to buy more expensive lamps in which the inner walls are not transparent.
- You can not make a multi-level structure or bend.
- You will lose some of the height of the room.
- You can see the seams between the panels.
Preparatory work
We will tell you how to make a plastic ceiling, using the example of a finished bathroom. It has already been produced on its walls, which will complicate the installation process. 
In our case, the tiles are specially laid almost to the very ceiling, at a distance of about 15 centimeters. There are 2 ways: to mount the frame directly on the tile or above it. If you fix the crate over the tile, then part of the edge will be hidden, which complicates installation on a narrow corner. But if you attach the profiles to the finished tile, there is a high probability of damaging it. Therefore, we choose the first option.
Advice! To fix the profiles flush with the tile, level the surface above it with gypsum plaster, such as Knauf Rothband. But be sure to stick masking tape on the tiles and seams.
Frame installation
Fasten the guide nails to the dowel along the perimeter of the wall. In wet areas, it is better to use galvanized profiles than wooden bars. Mount after marking on the water or laser level.
Then you need to fix the suspensions that will support the frame from sagging. One dowel per hanger will be enough.
Advice! Before drilling, be sure to check the walls and ceiling for hidden wiring. Very often, wires run in the wall along the ceiling and there are junction boxes. In the best case, getting a drill into the wiring threatens you with broken plugs and forced repairs, and in the worst case, the puncher will fail and you will be shocked. To search for wires in the wall, you can use special detector devices or invite an electrician.
Plastic ceilings can be lowered to almost any height, but the minimum indentation is limited by the thickness of the battens and fixtures. If the length of standard hangers is not enough, use anchor hangers with clamps, which are shown in the photo.
Suspended ceiling hangers Suspensions should be located on the same line in approximately 60 cm increments, and the profiles themselves - at a distance of about 50 centimeters. Fastening plastic panels to the ceiling does not require transverse profiles, unlike, since they have a different shape and are screwed only from one edge. But if you want to hang a chandelier, in this place you still have to strengthen the frame by adding a couple of jumpers.
The finished frame should look something like in the photo: 
Now you can screw on the plastic starting profile or ceiling if you want to get a border. Fix it around the perimeter of the room with self-tapping screws in increments of 30-50 centimeters.
Docking curb on the ceiling Advice! To beautifully join the corners of the baseboard, cut them at an angle of 45 degrees with a hacksaw on a miter box. If there is no miter box, you can simply dock the starting plastic strips on top of each other in the corners, and after fastening, cut them diagonally with a knife.
Panel assembly process
So we have come to the final stage - the installation of plastic panels on the ceiling. Their fastening occurs across the profiles. They can be cut to the desired length with almost anything: a hacksaw with fine teeth, a jigsaw, a sharp knife. Trim the panels 5 millimeters less than the width of the room. The edges are best cleaned with sandpaper so that everything looks perfect. Do not forget to remove the film from them and try not to wrinkle: the panels are pressed through very easily.
- First, insert the side edge of the panel into the starting profile, then bend it slightly and insert the opposite one. Then slide the panel close to the wall so that it is in the profile on three sides.
- Fasten the last 4 side of the panel to the frame with wide-head self-tapping screws.
- Subsequent panels are fastened in the same way, but only one side instead of a profile will be held on the previous panel.
- So, the plastic ceiling is being installed to the last panel. To secure it, cut to the desired width.
Video on how to make a plastic ceiling with your own hands:
Advice! The last panel can be inserted in any way convenient for you, here is one of them: the length of the panel should be a couple of millimeters less than the distance from one wall to the beginning of the opposite starting profile. Insert one side directly into the corner of the wall, and the opposite can be inserted without problems by moving it a little. To dock the last panel, you can stick tape on it and slide it inside the groove. If any small gaps remain, they can be covered with acrylic sealant.
There is another way: just screw the panels to the frame, and after work, fix the curb in the corners with liquid nails. In this case, there will be no problems installing the last panel.
As for the installation of built-in lights, you can cut holes for them after installation, during sheathing or even before it. It is most convenient to use a nozzle on a drill bit, and if it is not there, then drills and a knife. Of course, all wires must already be in place prior to installation in order to connect the fixtures later.
Now the ceiling decoration with plastic panels is over - the photo of our work looks like this: 
Polyvinyl chloride is a material widely used in various fields of activity, it also finds its application in construction. PVC panels are made for walls and ceilings. Due to their low cost, resistance to adverse external influences and durability, such panels are well suited for finishing ceilings in the bathroom. Installation here does not require high qualifications and expensive equipment, it is enough just to familiarize yourself with the algorithm for its implementation, which will be described in this material.
Advantages and disadvantages
Prices for plastic ceiling panels
plastic ceiling panels
But there are a number of disadvantages that should also be kept in mind.
- If the bathroom is too large, such a ceiling may look inorganic, since the panels have a limited length (3 meters).
- Installation on a metal frame lowers the height of the ceiling by several centimeters.
- Complex design solutions, such as a multi-level ceiling and its bends, are not feasible here.
As you can see, the disadvantages of this type of ceiling are insignificant and outweighed by its advantages.
Required inventory
To equip a PVC ceiling yourself, you will need the following set of materials.
Decorative profiles are used to give the ceiling a preferred edging, their varieties are presented in the table.
Table. Types of decorative profiles for suspended ceilings made of plastic panels.
| Profile types | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Hides panel ends |
| Hides corner joints |
| Connects two standard profiles if their length is not enough |
| Completely hides all ends |
Ceiling profile prices
ceiling profile
Execution of work
Step 1. Draw up a work plan. It is not necessary to strictly comply with all the rules for the technical design of drawings, but it is important to accurately fix all dimensions and intervals.
Reference! There is an option for decorating a PVC ceiling that does not require the creation of an iron frame. In this case, the fastening of plastic blocks will go directly to the draft ceiling. The unequivocal advantage of this method is the preservation of the same height of the room.
Fastening plastic panels to the ceiling with "liquid nails"
But such work is possible only if the draft ceiling is in very good condition, if it is perfectly even, has no roughness and fungus damage. Here, fastening will be carried out using building glue for plastic or liquid nails.
Step 2 Next, preparatory activities are carried out. If lime is crumbling from the rough ceiling, then such areas must be removed. All loose wires must be wrapped in corrugated plastic pipes, leaving them free exit only in those places where they will go into lighting fixtures. The old ceiling is treated with an antifungal solution.
Step 3 Then a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of all walls. It will indicate the height of the panels. The line should be at a certain distance from the ceiling, which depends on the planned use of the resulting empty space. If nothing will be placed there, then a five-centimeter indent is enough. If it is planned to place ventilation or massive lighting fixtures, then the distance can increase to two to three tens of centimeters.
Step 4 The line is drawn with a level. If the bathroom is already tiled, then its extreme seams can be used as a ruler.
Frame installation
Step 1. Before starting work, the tile is closed with polyethylene or cardboard.
Step 2 The start profile, that is, the UD form, is installed first. You need to apply it to the wall so that the lower border coincides with the drawn lines. Cut into pieces the length of the entire wall.
When the profile is attached to the wall, holes are drilled in it every fifty centimeters to insert dowels there, the depth of the hole is equal to the length of the dowel with a margin of 10-20 mm. There are hammered dowels and screwed with a screwdriver, the first type is more convenient to use. Before drilling a wall, it must be checked for wiring using a detector device.
Step 3. Then the CD profile is laid out. It is inserted perpendicular to the UD into its slots. There are two ways to lay these elements: along a long wall or across it. They have different aesthetic effects: if the room seems more spacious when laid along, then when laid across it looks more compact. The longitudinal structure has one drawback: since the profile sags between two grooves at a sufficiently large distance, it requires additional fastening to the ceiling in the form of suspended structures.
Hangers are fixed before installation of CD forms. To correctly calculate their future location, make marks on them when installing the UD, which will help you determine both the location of the hangers and the location of the CD mount.
Step 4 If a chandelier will be used for lighting, then it is necessary to draw one rail across all the others in the place where it will hang.
Chandelier prices
Panel installation
A plinth is installed along the perimeter of the wall directly under the base profile, liquid nails or glue are used for fastening. The plinth is made of the same material as the panels themselves, differing from them only in their shape. Some types of skirting boards are fixed without the help of special tools, mechanically attached to the UD panel. This includes F-shaped skirting boards.
On a note! During the arrangement of the plastic ceiling, you will probably be puzzled by the problem of creating the right angles. For the wall panel, it is not necessary to make them, since this element is still not striking. But for skirting boards that are in plain sight and represent the edging of the ceiling, the design of the corners is necessary.
The most time-consuming way is to cut them out with a miter box from standard products. But the miter box is not always at hand, and not everyone knows how to work with it. In this case, you can purchase special corner nozzles that can easily be attached to the junction of two skirting boards.
The panels are cut according to the dimensions of the wall. For convenience, you can make them a little shorter than necessary, but with a difference of no more than 5 mm. A profile strip is taken, one end of it is threaded into the groove between the UD form and the plinth and fastened there. The other end of the strip is attached in the opposite groove; to be able to thread it there, you need to slightly bend the strip, but be careful, because at this point it is easy to break. Each strip has mounting locks. The first inserted panel is fixed to the plinth with a screw. Subsequent panels are connected to each other using press washers. The latter has a half width, for which a standard panel is sawn into two parts. This panel is attached to the groove of the profile and the plinth without the use of bolts and washers.
Prices for ceiling plinth
ceiling plinth
Please note that the laying of plastic panels occurs perpendicular to the direction of the CD molds. In other words, if the CDs were stacked along the long side of the room, then the plastic panel should run across it.
Reference! In addition to parallel and perpendicular, there is also a diagonal direction of frame fastening. It requires more precise calculations for its implementation, but a rough planning guideline is a parallel direction rather than a perpendicular one.
Lighting
A place is allocated in advance for the lamps. Check the functionality and safety of all wiring. When laying plastic blocks, do not forget to remove the ends of the wires from the filled areas so that they do not become "walled" between the ceilings. You should not spare the wires, even if they are carried out with a spare length, the risk of not reaching the wire to the planned place can jeopardize the entire arrangement plan.
In the desired panels, holes are drilled to form your lighting fixture. The easiest way is to make round holes, for which it is enough to put a special nozzle on the puncher. The luminaire is mounted after the panels have been installed.
On this, the process of arranging a plastic ceiling can be considered completed. And this is another advantage of this material - it does not need any additional lining. After the completion of the main work, such a ceiling is a full-fledged element of the home interior, and the bathroom with its help can change beyond recognition.
Video - Finishing the ceiling in the bathroom with plastic panels
The finish of the bathroom is subjected to severe tests of high humidity, temperature changes, insufficient air circulation, and therefore wears out faster than in other rooms.
In order not to carry out repairs every 5-7 years, wear-resistant and water-repellent finishing materials are used in the bathroom, in particular plastic ceiling panels. They allow you to quickly, inexpensively and beautifully sheathe the ceiling without leveling the surface and dismantling the old coating. In this article we will tell you how to make a plastic ceiling in the bathroom correctly and efficiently.
Design advantages
The ceiling in the bathroom of plastic panels is a suspended structure that includes a frame made of wood or metal and sheathing. Surface finishing in this way is carried out without preliminary dismantling of the old coating, leveling or other preparatory work, which can significantly reduce the repair time.
For filing, plastic canvases are used that have a hollow structure with internal stiffeners, the width of which is 25 cm and the length is 2.70 m. Finishing the ceiling in the bathroom with this material has the following advantages:
- The device of suspended ceilings made of plastic allows you to quickly level the surface yourself without dismantling the old finish.
- Finishing with suspended plastic panels allows you to hide the elements of communications, ventilation system, wiring.
- The device of plastic ceilings is done by hand, thanks to the light weight of the material, as well as a convenient tenon-groove fastening system.
- The metal frame is suitable for soundproofing, waterproofing equipment.
- If necessary, plastic sheets can be easily removed, replaced and inserted into a ready-made frame and plinth.
- Plastic is washable and moisture-resistant materials, thanks to which the decoration of the ceilings in the bathroom retains a neat appearance for a longer time.
Note! Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels is considered a budget option that allows you to complete repairs in a matter of hours. However, with the help of this material, complex, figured multi-level structures are not made. Experienced craftsmen note that the seams between the canvases with this method of finishing will be visible even with professional installation.
materials
To mount a plastic ceiling in the bathroom with your own hands, you will need guides from which the frame, plinth, profiles for connection and fastening, as well as the panels themselves are made. When buying, you need to choose high-quality panels that have sufficient thickness, since products in the lower price segment are often too thin, and therefore transmit light from the lamps. The device of a false ceiling made of plastic is carried out using the following components:
Important! Before you make a ceiling from panels in a sanitary room, you need to purchase all the necessary components. In addition to the starting profile, n-profile and corners, you will need metal guides to make the frame, the panels themselves, as well as self-tapping screws to install them correctly. Due to the high humidity in the bathroom, experienced craftsmen advise using galvanized fasteners that are resistant to corrosion.
Mounting technology
Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling begins after the walls of the bathroom with ceramic tiles are completed. There are various methods for manufacturing suspended ceilings: some craftsmen install the frame directly on top of the tile, while others prefer to finish the last row of tiles 10-15 cm below the ceiling, and fix the guides above it. The second method of mounting panels is considered less convenient, however, it will reduce the risk of damage to the tile. Further, the finishing of ceilings with suspended panels is carried out in the following order:
Note! Before attaching plastic panels to the ceiling, you need to resolve the issue with wiring and lighting. Professional craftsmen advise combining installation with the installation of fixtures, since this technology will allow you to perform all work under lighting. In addition, paneling will help hide the wires, get a perfectly smooth, glossy surface.
Video instruction
Often, at the mention of the ceiling of plastic panels in the bathroom, the imagination of the inhabitants draws a white plastic lining. In fact, modern manufacturers offer a range of PVC lamellas with a wide color palette and a variety of textures that imitate wood, wild stone or leather. From the samples provided, you can choose the appropriate option, combined with flooring, wall decoration, bathroom interior items.
Benefits of plastic panels in wet areas
This is called:
- the need for only desire and a standard set of tools;
- loyal prices for plastic compared to other finishing materials;
- ease of care: decorated surfaces are able to withstand frequent wet cleaning with detergents;
- plastic is not subject to deformation, destruction in wet rooms, resistant to repeated direct water ingress;
- the fact that the cellular structure of the lamellas endows them with a soundproofing effect necessary to absorb the noise of a running washing machine or murmuring water;
- the ability to plan re-repair after many years: after 30 years of operation, plastic panels look like on the day of purchase.
- provided with a choice of colors, shapes that can satisfy design requests and wishes.
Finishing the ceiling in the bathroom with plastic has not lost popularity for several decades.
Of course, like other facing materials, this also has disadvantages. After installation, there is a specific smell in the room, which, however, disappears after a couple of days.
Important! Plastic is subject to linear expansion under large temperature fluctuations. It is important to consider this feature if you are going to install a plastic ceiling in the bathroom in a country house that is not heated in the winter.
Necessary tools for the job
Installing a plastic ceiling in the bathroom is not so difficult as to involve a construction team. It is quite possible to do it on your own, you just need to be patient, have the necessary tools, materials and act in accordance with the instructions.
For work you will need:
Selection and purchase of plastic, moldings, connecting hardware
Before you go to the hardware store, measure the area of the bathroom to determine the required amount of building material.
Layout options in which the size of the sides of the ceiling is a multiple of the length of the lamellas are very rare. PVC panels are produced with a width of 10, 20, 25, 37, 50 cm, the length can vary from 2.6 m to 6 m.
Important. The thickness of the plastic strips is not always the same, sometimes 5, 8, 10 mm - this difference must be taken into account when buying connecting moldings and fasteners.
To repair the ceiling, you must purchase:
Profiles differ in purpose and are:
- Starting. They are attached to the crate along the perimeter of the room, the edges of the lamellas are inserted into the grooves located in it to facilitate installation and give a more aesthetic appearance to the completed structure.
Ceiling. It differs from the starting one by the presence of a decorative ceiling plinth. - Connective. Use in areas where the length of the standard profile is not enough.
- Inner corner. Use if the walls are also planned to be sheathed with panels.
- Plinth plastic or foam. There is not always a desire to use a starting profile; in these cases, a special plinth is glued to decorate the joints between the ceiling and walls.
Important. After the purchase, plastic products must be left for a day in the room where the work will be carried out, in order for them to acquire physical parameters inherent in the temperature regime of the room.
Installation of a PVC ceiling in the bathroom is possible at any stage of the repair. This may be the final moment after wall cladding and flooring, or maybe the beginning of repair work.
Electrical component of the work
Before starting the installation of the battens, electrical wires are brought out under the lighting.
In any case, by the time the ceiling is decorated, it is better to decide on the choice of light source. You can place lighting fixtures on the walls or install mortise spotlights.
Before starting the installation of the battens, electrical wires are brought out under the lighting. If you plan to install a forced exhaust in the ventilation duct, it's time to supply electricity for it. In addition, you will have to find the old wiring before you start drilling holes for the profile to prevent the drill from getting into it. It is good when there is access to the junction box and it is possible to see the direction of placement of the electrical conductors. Often, for aesthetic purposes, the boxes are hidden under a layer of plaster, and the landlord does not always know their location. Therefore, it is better to ring the upper part of the walls with a multimeter or a “tweeter”: it is likely that the electrical wires are located here.
Having given preference to spot recessed lamps, it is better to purchase them in advance. After all, their sizes differ, but you need to know for sure - at what distance from the ceiling to place the crate for installation. The minimum gap between the suspended ceiling and the stationary one is equal to the height of the lamp (usually - 120 mm) + 50 mm (the minimum allowable distance from the ceiling to the soffit).
When lighting sources are located on the walls, to reduce space losses, the installation of the profile begins close to the ceiling.
Sheathing in the bathroom with plastic panels of the ceiling base does not require prior alignment.
This saves money and time resources, but the crate itself is placed in a strictly horizontal plane. Therefore, before mounting the profile, mark the ceiling using a level.
Installation of a metal profile crate for the ceiling in the bathroom
Those cases when the walls are tiled, and the tiles are arranged horizontally, the marking process is facilitated. You only have to, starting from the seam, draw a line around the perimeter of the bathroom walls.
Less fortunate when there are no tiles on the walls: you have to use the level.
The laser level is easy to use, they can quickly and easily apply accurate markings. However, not every master has a level for home use.
Working with a hydraulic level
You will have to tinker with the hydraulic level, but the result will be just as good. The hydraulic level is a transparent flexible hose with flasks at the ends, filled with water. For measurement accuracy, the accumulation of air bubbles is removed from it. The principle of operation is based on the interaction of liquid in communicating vessels, no matter how high you raise or lower one end of the tube, the liquid level at the other end will be set at the same level.
A pencil intended for drawing marks on the walls is sharpened sharply: a 2-3 mm mark left by a thick lead will subsequently make it difficult to correctly connect the marks.
For this stage of work, it is desirable to find an assistant. If you find someone willing to help, the process won't take long. Otherwise, you will have to attach the end of the hose to the wall with tape each time, and the procedure will be delayed. Start the mark from the lowest corner of the room.
The first risk is applied on the wall, stepping back from an angle of 10 centimeters, at a distance from the ceiling equal to the height of the lamp plus 5 cm.
One end of the tube is applied to the mark obtained and the liquid level is aligned with the applied mark. The second end of the hose is transferred to the opposite side of the wall, put at risk flush with the surface of the liquid in the tube.
The number of marks applied should be equal to the number of corners (external + internal) multiplied by 2.
To connect the inflicted risks, you will need a chopping cable, sometimes called a choline thread. It is a thick thread coated with dry coloring powder. The cord is pulled between the marks, after which it must be slightly pulled with your free hand and released. The paint from the thread will leave a clearly visible imprint on the wall.
You can connect short gaps by attaching a metal meter between the risks, as a rule, a profile and drawing a line with a pencil.
Marking using a building bubble level
The bubble level is a sealed flask with a liquid and an air bubble in it, mounted in a wooden or metal bar or profile. The air bubble tends to take a position at the top of the liquid, this feature allows you to check the horizontal and vertical directions. The dimensions of the rulers vary from 40 cm to 2.5 m. Before use, the accuracy of the level readings is checked, since after impacts, falls, they go astray. Mark lines for installing a profile in increments of 80-100 cm (in bathrooms 1.5 * 2 m this item is sometimes skipped).
Lathing installation
Installing batten on the ceiling in the bathroom
Having completed the marking of the crate, they begin to screw the metal profile along the perimeter of the walls. The frame is mounted from a galvanized UD ceiling profile, which is attached to the walls with dowels with nails. For brick, concrete walls, nails 40 mm long and d 6 mm are used. If the walls are made of less durable material, the length of the hardware is increased for the reliability of fastening.
For ease of installation, first with a puncher or an impact drill, holes are drilled for the dowel nails in increments of 40-50 cm. A special tile drill is used to drill tiles. Insert plastic screws into them. Drill holes in the profile at the same distance. Aligning the holes obtained, screw the profile to the wall.
To connect in the corners, the UD profile is cut at an angle of 45. Holes are drilled in the ceiling for fastening the CD profile. For its fastening to the ceiling, suspensions are used - metal perforated strips, with a shortage of their length, anchor fastenings are used.
Fasten the CD profile, tucking its edges into the UD profile
The use of wooden crates in the bathroom is undesirable due to the ability of wood to change its geometric parameters under the influence of moisture. However, if you decide to install a wooden beam, you must first treat it with antiseptic and water-repellent impregnations that prevent the growth of mold and fungus. Fasten the wooden structure directly to the ceiling.
Compliance with the horizontal plane is checked with a rule, a flat rail or threads stretched across the room.
Start fastening it using a starting or ceiling profile.
The profile is fixed with self-tapping screws on three sides of the crate.
Cut the panels with a sharp knife, hacksaw, grinder to a given size. At the locations of the spotlights, holes are drilled with a grinder with a nozzle crown. In the absence of it, you can use a knife.
The edges of the first strip are inserted into the grooves of the ceiling profile, for this it is slightly bent and advanced until it stops. Screwed to each profile with self-tapping screws.
Installation of plastic on the ceiling in the bathroom
Each subsequent strip is inserted in the same way.
After installing the last lamella, the remaining fourth starting profile is cut off on one side and glued on top.
In the absence of a starting profile, a plinth for the ceiling is glued.
You can shoot a furniture stapler to the wooden crate of the PVC panel.
If desired, the ceiling of PVC panels in the bathroom is mounted in several levels, for this they simply make a multi-level crate.
Making a ceiling of plastic panels in the bathroom with your own hands is not difficult at all. Even a novice master is able to cope with this lesson in a few days. Such a ceiling is capable of serving for many years, it is not afraid of moisture, direct water ingress. Repairs will not be required, even if the neighbors from above flood. And the provided range can satisfy the most sophisticated requests in order to emphasize the individuality of bathroom design.
The ceiling in the bathroom must be resistant to various influences, otherwise very soon you will have to start repairs from the beginning. It should be borne in mind that only some materials can withstand high humidity and sudden changes in temperature. Such materials are usually expensive. Not every consumer can afford them. A successful solution to this problem are ceiling panels for the bathroom.
Advantages of ceiling panels
Ceiling panels have many advantages over other bathroom ceiling materials:
- The main quality of the panels is water resistance and moisture resistance, because they are covered with a special film that prevents moisture from penetrating inside the panel.
- Ceiling panels do not deform - they do not change shape, there are no cracks on them.
- They prevent the appearance of fungus and the reproduction of bacteria, which often occur in rooms with high humidity.
- The panels perfectly hide the uneven ceiling.
- All materials of ceiling panels are environmentally friendly.
- They are not afraid of rapid temperature changes, which usually lead to the formation of cracks and deformations.
- They are perfectly cleaned with detergents and do not need constant care.
- Long-term use of panels provides a unique opportunity to make high-quality repairs just once and forget about it.
- Thanks to the variety of colors of the panels, you can choose the right shade for any style.
Disadvantages of a panel ceiling
- Accumulation of condensate from the formation of vapors in the bathroom. Wipe with a damp cloth and leave the room open to ventilate.
- Ceiling panels are made of plastic and are therefore flammable and release a highly toxic gas. Therefore, care should be taken that the panels do not come into close contact with appliances that are very hot.
- Panels are prone to mechanical damage, especially with point impacts. To avoid cracks, this feature should be taken into account.
- From direct sunlight, the pattern fades over time, and the snow-white panel begins to turn yellow.
- Many people do not want to use ceiling panels in their homes, as they associate plastic with office space. They do not feel the atmosphere of home comfort. But it's all a matter of taste.
The difference between ceiling panels and wall panels
All panels are divided into two huge classes: ceiling and wall.
When buying panels, you should consider their application.
Wall panels are characterized by a rigid structure and high weight.
Ceiling panels are inferior in strength, but are characterized by lightness. When transporting ceiling panels, everything must be done carefully and slowly in order to maintain their original appearance.
All panels have a huge variety of surfaces, textures, colors, widths, and can imitate natural materials. So they will perfectly fit into any interior.
Types of ceiling panels
Ceiling panels are striking in their diversity. You can choose the color scheme and texture of the panels to emphasize your chosen style.
If you want to visually enlarge the bathroom, then use only light and warm shades of ceiling panels. They can imitate ceramic tiles, brickwork, and even wood grain.
You can also add variety using the fastener method: vertical, horizontal or diagonal.
When choosing panels, it is worth considering their dimensions. Slatted panels come in various sizes, tile panels are made in squares of different sizes, and sheet panels look like large sheets that are perfect for bathrooms that have a considerable area. You can also experiment and use several textures for one room at once.
For the manufacture of panels for the ceiling is used polyvinyl chloride (PVC). This type of panel has become very popular among consumers, because it can withstand heavy loads and does not lend itself to deformation. Operation is possible for about 20-40 years.
MDF is also very often used.(medium density fibreboard) for the manufacture of ceiling panels. They are very easy to mount, and there is no need to do surface preparation before the mount itself.
We recommend that you read our article about plastic panels for the bathroom.
Perforated ceiling panels
Do not interfere with the ventilation of the bathroom. A variety of drawings will help create an extraordinary design. The color options are endless.
Great if you don't have spacer bars. With a ceiling height of less than 5 m, this will be an excellent solution.
Slatted ceilings
They are characterized by a unique surface that perfectly imitates natural wood, fabric, stone and even leather. Colors and a variety of textures will become indispensable in any bathroom interior.
Ceilings of this type are characterized by low weight and do not require the construction of frame systems. Therefore, they are widely used for arranging ceilings throughout the house, as well as for public places - offices, swimming pools and other premises.
Tiled suspended ceilings
They are presented in the form of a frame, which is assembled like a lattice. You should put a tile from the material that you like into each cell of the lattice. With it, you can create a glass, metal or even a mirrored ceiling.
Sheet panels
They have a beautiful aesthetic appearance, because they do not have the so-called "seams". They are characterized by increased resistance to moisture, so they are perfectly washed. In addition to a huge palette of colors, decorative panels have different textures. Housewives will be pleased with the aprons panels, because they will add originality and uniqueness to any kitchen interior. For the bathroom, a “mosaic” is perfect, which will give an elegant look. For cottages, you can make ceilings that imitate brick, slate or natural stone.
Plastic panels
Widely used as it is a fast, cheap, and perfect choice. A huge palette of colors and textures of panels perfectly combines the panel ceiling with wall coverings.
foam panels
Foam panels are also widely used.
Main advantages- it is waterproof, they are not amenable to deformation and resistant to sudden temperature changes. They boast high rates of waterproofing and sound insulation. They are very light, so their installation can be done by yourself without outside help. They are inexpensive.
Calculation of consumables
Before choosing a color scheme or a decorative pattern for the ceiling, you should make a count of consumables for the entire ceiling:
- First, we calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe entire ceiling, which is determined by multiplying the width by the length.
- Further, according to the same principle, we calculate the area of \u200b\u200bone ceiling panel, all dimensions can be viewed on the package.
- Then we divide the area of \u200b\u200bthe entire ceiling by the area of one panel. We add ten percent to the resulting number to form a certain margin.
To calculate the profile, you should start by creating a diagram. For it, it is necessary to measure the length along the perimeter of the ceiling and add parallel segments, using a step of 50 cm. The figure that turned out will be the required number of profiles.
Please note that the profiles have several markings. The UD profile usually secures the material around the perimeter, while the CD profile is used as slats across.
Typically, ceiling panels are attached with dowels. To count their number, you do not need to do complex operations. It's simple: for every 0.5 m of the profile you will need one dowel. Therefore, the entire amount of the profile must be divided by 0.5 and we get the number of dowels. But don't forget to add another 10 percent to make a small margin. If the ceiling panels are fastened with self-tapping screws, then the same calculation should be made.
Please note that after installing the ceiling panels, the skirting board must be attached. To calculate the required number of skirting boards, it should be taken into account that its length is 3 m. Therefore, we divide the length along the perimeter by 3 and get the number of skirting boards.
Ceiling panel mounting technology
You don't need to be a professional to install ceiling panels.
All you need is a set of styling tools:
- moisture resistant panels;
- metal profiles;
- self-tapping screws;
- hacksaw;
- perforator or drill;
- moisture resistant adhesive.
If the ceiling or walls are perfectly even, then the panels are mounted on moisture-resistant glue. Use a roller with glue to lubricate clean, dry walls, and then attach the panels.
For uneven walls, be sure to use metal profiles.
The surface of the panel must be smooth. When joining panels, there should be no gaps. Good quality panels are always painted evenly.
Before attaching the panels to the ceiling, a frame should be built. It is made from drywall profiles, the size of which is 27x28 mm. Then it is attached to the ceiling around the perimeter. For a plastic ceiling, a 27x60 mm profile is used, it should be attached every 60 cm. It is not necessary to adhere to this size: if there are some inconveniences, then this step can be increased.
The process of mounting the ceiling from ceiling panels takes place in several stages:
1. To begin with, it should be taken into account that the panel ceiling is in harmony with the walls and floor. Do not forget to lay all the necessary communications before installing the ceiling.
2. First, special marks are made around the entire perimeter on the walls for the future ceiling. Please note that between the main ceiling and the plastic one, fixture inserts or fixtures for decorative elements should fit.
3. The process of fastening the guide profile for drywall around the entire perimeter is carried out, using self-tapping screws or dowels. If the ceiling is concrete, then the crate is fixed only with dowels.
4. The profile sticks for the ceiling are inserted into the guides, and only then can the profile be screwed to them, using a self-tapping screw with a press washer.
There is no need to drill separate holes for the screws: if you use a screwdriver, they will be screwed in without much effort.
5. A plinth is screwed to the guide profile on the ceiling around the entire perimeter. Do not forget that the plinth is cut strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.
If the bathroom is relatively small in size, then there is no need to use a guide profile, you can simply glue the skirting board. To begin with, markings are made on the walls around the entire perimeter, and then the plinth is attached to liquid nails. Next, a profile for the ceiling is laid on the plinth and fastened with hangers.
6. Then the entire ceiling is covered with panels. They are inserted into the plinth and attached to the ceiling profiles with a self-tapping screw with a press washer.
Note! Installation of panels must begin from the corner and fasten the joint end-to-end.
7. When the last panel remains, use a tape measure to measure the distance left to the wall, subtract 5-6 mm, and only then cut off the required piece. The panel is first inserted into the baseboard, and then carefully pushed back to fit well with the previous panel.
The process of installing a panel ceiling itself is not particularly difficult, so you can safely do it yourself. Anyone can easily install them, because ceiling panels are very affordable and easy to use and do not require a lot of time and money. First of all, you need to decide on the installation method, which has many variations.
Outcome
In conclusion, it should be noted that bathroom ceiling panels are a modern and inexpensive way to finish. A variety of colors, as well as the ability to use different materials, only gives them advantages. They fit perfectly and accentuate any bathroom style. Ceiling panels have good quality indicators and are not picky to use. And also very important is that you yourself can carry out their installation. You make repairs once, and ceiling panels will serve you for many years.
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