Water in the basement of a private house - what to do? Many people ask this question in the spring.
Radical homeowners simply stop using the cellar. The more experienced are unwilling to put up with the inevitable laws of nature. And rightly so, because the elimination of water in the basement is quite possible. Moreover, today's technologies allow you to get rid of such a problem forever.
So, if you don't want to stand waist-deep in water in your own basement, then read on.
Causes of water
Success in the construction of a private house is the provision of the most comfortable conditions for all residents. The functioning of the life support systems of the building helps to create optimal conditions for living, and a violation of technology can lead to quite unpleasant situations. One of them is the penetration of water into the basement of a private house.
The main causes of the problem:
- The appearance of cracks in the foundation of the house.
- Too much rainfall.
In the first case, there is water under the floor due to incorrectly carried out measures for laying the foundation, as well as errors in the technological process.
In addition to cracks, there are often cases of so-called capillary penetration of moisture into the basement of a building, resulting in fungus and mold. This is a consequence of a violation of construction technologies, as well as inefficient ventilation and waterproofing in the basement of the house.
The main source of rising groundwater levels is seasonal snowmelt and other atmospheric precipitation.
In addition to weather conditions, different features of the terrain are also important. During construction, it should be remembered that groundwater, as well as the depth of their occurrence, is a very important factor in building a house.
Rising groundwater levels can cause great damage to property and foundation strength. At the time of flooding in the basement, calcium is washed out of the concrete, which reduces the indicators of reliability and strength.
In order to avoid a water disaster, it is very important to carry out special measures aimed at eliminating the problem.
Troubleshooting
drainage system
Conclusion
This is a fairly simple system that is quite inexpensive. Very quick to install and easy to set up. However, this system has two major drawbacks.
Firstly, the pump works properly until it exhausts its resource, then it still has to be replaced.
Secondly, the pumping system, unfortunately, will not eliminate the main cause of flooding, but will only relieve the consequences for a while.
Internal waterproofing of walls inside the basement
If there is water under the house, then in addition to the drainage device, it is advisable to make walls from the inside of the room. The flooding of the basement in a private house suggests that during the construction of the house, big mistakes were made in assessing the hydrogeological conditions of the land, in choosing the design, as well as in the installation of external waterproofing.
In this regard, the installation of an additional water barrier in the form of waterproofing the walls of the basement from the inside will definitely not be superfluous.
For high-quality waterproofing of walls inside the basement of a private house, systems of so-called coating waterproofing based on polymer-cement materials are most suitable.
Currently, manufacturers offer whole sets of materials for coated waterproofing of walls. The composition of such kits includes reinforcing meshes, special primers, compounds for plaster, as well as mastics for sealing walls, joints and seams.
Groundwater problem and possible basement flooding- two complex issues that should be addressed even at the stage of building a country house. Ignoring these points can lead to such undesirable consequences as the destruction of the foundation, its subsidence, flooding of the basement and damage to all its contents, as well as the floors of the first floor. How protective measures should be taken to prevent disaster? If, nevertheless, the problem could not be avoided, what to do? Perhaps the following information will be useful to you.
What causes groundwater to rise?
For example, these may be floods of closely located rivers or a rise in the water level, provoked by heavy rainfall. Can we influence the first factor? We personally, as summer residents, are unlikely. But we can provide for the fastest removal of precipitation.
How to divert ground water?
So that groundwater in the basement of a country house does not create problems, they simply should not be there. To do this, it is worth taking protective measures. What should be attributed to them? Well, firstly, it is a well-timed drainage and, secondly, waterproofing.
Waterproofing is necessary from the moisture contained in the soil in any case, and when groundwater flows significantly below the level of the basement floor, without affecting the underground part of the structure. It is possible to treat all concrete surfaces with special water-repellent compounds, to seal the joints "wall-wall", "wall-floor". This way we can seal...
There is also injection waterproofing. Its essence is that all cracks are filled with multicomponent materials. Due to its special properties, a substance injected under pressure with special equipment quickly fills all existing external and internal voids, hardens, thereby reliably blocking water access.
You can forget about flooding basements if, in addition to waterproofing, take care of the drainage system on the site.
Option 1.
With the help of a drill, we will make several wells with a diameter of at least 10-15 cm, and an average length of 3-5 meters. As a rule, this length is sufficient to provide liquid access to permeable layers through dense clay layers, which trap water, causing it to accumulate. We lower a special pipe inside or fill it with rubble to the upper boundary of the hole, cover it with a lid and cover it with earth. Wells, of course, should be done in the lowland parts of the site and build supply paths to them along which flowing water will be directed. As a result, water does not accumulate in the upper layers of the soil, for example, during rain or snowmelt, but freely and deeply goes through the waterproof layers of the soil. And very fast too! Such wells are recommended to be made around the entire perimeter of the basement and in its vicinity.
Option 2.
You can also build a drainage system as follows. First of all, it is required to assess the nature of the slope in the summer cottage, which in turn will determine the degree of slope of the pipes. In addition, the larger the diameter of the pipe, the greater the slope. Thus, an independent flow of water is ensured in the direction opposite to the site. We dig trenches along the perimeter of the house and one or two more in the direction from the house to drain the liquid. They should be about 1.5 meters deep, 0.4 m wide, and the slope at the exit should be below the level of the basement. We cover the bottom with a waterproofing tecton, then with geotextiles (the width of the material should be sufficient to wrap the subsequent elements of the entire system with it). The next layers are crushed stone 5 cm thick and pipes directly (at the required slope!). We fill the pipes with crushed stone, the layer of which should be approximately 40 cm, cover everything with geotextiles, pour sand and earth on top. For flat areas, an additional drainage well is dug, where rainwater will be collected. From time to time they are pumped out with a pump.
If the basement is already flooded.
If the organization of waterproofing during construction was not discussed, and the basement was flooded, then it is urgent to drain it, and then think about the drainage system. A properly laid network of drainage pipes will collect and drain not only groundwater, but also melted, rainwater, constantly protecting the foundation, basements from excessive moisture.
Drain the flooded room using a submersible drainage or fecal type pump. There is nothing complicated in their design, as well as operation, which does not prevent the devices from effectively solving their tasks. The choice of model depends entirely on the composition of the liquid in your area, the number and size of foreign particles in it. The drainage pump will perfectly cope with clean or heavily polluted water. However, the fecal will pump all the liquid if it is not just contaminated, but contains debris, for example, particles 50 mm in size.
The next item should be the organization of the drainage network on the site by one of the two above methods.
According to the site: www.kak-sdelat.su
- a responsible event that requires competent calculation. Despite a number of benefits that the arrangement of “0” level premises promises, their operation may be complicated due to the high level of groundwater. Therefore, it is necessary to think about how to drain water from a basement or cellar even at the design stage.
However, even if the already built basement floods regularly, this is not a reason to give up. This flooding of the basement in an apartment building is a practically unsolvable problem, and in suburban housing everything is in our hands. The practice of users of our site suggests that there is a way out of any situation!
Fresher, Moscow:
- I dug a basement 2.7 meters deep under my house. The floor in the basement is earthen. Geological surveys have shown that the GWL are below the base of the foundation. Every time after heavy rains, the basement floods with water. If you do not pump it out, then you get a real pool 1.5-1.7 meters deep. Water oozes between the cracks of the foundation blocks at a depth of -1.5 meters from ground level. The waterproofing of the foundation was done, but, apparently, it is ineffective, but there are no drains yet. I think it needs to be drained.
Basement flooding solution
Most often, the following scheme is proposed to solve the important issue of "flooded the basement in the house":
- Completely dig out the basement around the entire perimeter;
- Make additional waterproofing of the walls of the basement;
- Arrange a drainage system at the level of the sole of the foundation;
- Make a clay castle.
Despite the seeming universality of this solution, practice shows that there are no schemes suitable for all cases.
The choice of method for constructing a drainage system depends on the data obtained during a hydrogeological study at the site.
Finding the cause of the flood
Opinion Muravieva Evgenia(nickname on the forum evan):
- First of all, you need to understand what kind of water fills the basement of a residential building: dirt or top water.
This is done like this - they drill 2-3 wells 2-3 meters deep below the basement level.
After that, they look at what level the water will appear in the wells, and whether it will be above or below the level of the foundation mark. The perch is usually collected in the soil used to backfill the foundation sinuses.
Therefore, we must consider the drainage and waterproofing device as a complex, one cannot be done without the other.
The drainage system cuts off water from the walls of the basement, and the waterproofing does not let moisture in.
It is also necessary to divert the water coming from the roof from the foundation when the snow melts, for which a blind area is arranged, a drainage system is installed and a storm drain is organized.
This article talks about the right pie
If these measures did not help, then wall drainage will have to be done, and the water collected in the basement should be pumped out through the pit.
Dodge45:
There is a basement under my house. Every weight I expect it to be flooded, and it is flooded. Water - about 20 cm from the bottom of the basement. Therefore, I decided to drain it by organizing a pit where water would be collected, which could then be pumped out.
The forum member made the pit as follows: he took an aluminum tank of 500 liters and cut it in half. The result was a container with a bottom, 1.7 meters high and 90 cm in diameter. To the bottom of the tank Dodge45 screwed 4 corners that protrude beyond the dimensions of the container. They serve as an anchor and do not allow the tank to float. Then, in the lower part of the tank, in a circle, the forum member drilled many holes with a diameter of 20 mm. They are essential for better water collection.
The next step was digging a hole in the basement 1.5 meters deep with a distance of 2 meters from the wall.
Dodge45:
- Having dug a hole, I put a tank in it and filled the hole with a container with granite rubble with a fraction of 3-7 cm.
Then the user dug two inclined trenches to the pit, with a height difference from 60 cm to 100 cm. He sprinkled the bottom of the trenches with crushed granite, laid sewer plastic pipes with a diameter of 150 mm with holes drilled at random with a diameter of 13 mm and covered the trenches with crushed stone. Got drains. The forum member put a pump in the barrel to pump out the collected water. Then it merges into a roadside stream. 
Basement water drop schedule:
- 2006 The pump turns on every 20-30 minutes;
- 2007 The pump turns on every 1 hour 30 minutes - 2 hours 30 minutes.
- 2008 The pump turns on every 2 hours 30 minutes - 4 hours;
- 2009 The pump turns on every 4 hours 30 minutes - 6 hours;
- 2010 The pump turns on every 6-12 hours;
- 2011 The pump is switched on only by force. The water level at the bottom of the barrel is stable - 6 cm.
A year later, a member of the forum buried a pipe under the road, into which he laid a sewer plastic pipe with a diameter of 150 mm and made a stainless steel receiving well to drain water from the pit.
Dodge45:
– After the work, the humidity in the basement is 73%. Now here you can store everything that previously had to be stored in a change house: tools, building materials, food supplies. Also in the basement is a pumping station and a gas generator.
Read our article on what to do if the cellar is flooded and how to make it no longer flooded.
Another option for a pit for draining water from the basement is offered by a forum member with a nickname da4hik:
- UGV in my area - on the bayonet of a shovel, under the house - an aquarium, because. The foundation is almost completely filled with water. Pumping it out all the time with a pump is expensive. So I made a drain.
First, a member of the forum dug in the basement to a depth of 60 centimeters, a hole the size of a small refrigerator, which someone threw into a landfill.
Fighting water in the cellar, personal experience
Last edit by moderator: 11/21/17
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316
Eugene, flood, design, architecture;)
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316 Address: Vladimir
So what has been done. During the dry period, with the lowest water level, water was pumped out of the pit. The walls were washed with clean water and the floor was cleaned from age-old dirt. Then, with a metal brush on the grinder, he lightly went through all the walls. I washed them again. I made a screed on the floor from self-mixed concrete, about 3.5 cm. When the concrete had set, I treated the walls with Ceresit CR 65. This is a composition for waterproofing on rigid substrates. It is diluted like cement, in water, to the state of liquid sour cream and applied with a large brush on the walls. The thing is not bad, the manufacturer promises a wonderful water retention. It exaggerates, of course. For several layers, ceresite formed a fairly strong, light gray crust. Actually, it turned out to be a concrete pit. This was done about three or even four years ago. In autumn and in this form it went into winter.
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316
Eugene, flood, design, architecture;)
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316 Address: Vladimir
I enjoyed a relatively dry pit for about half a year or a year. Relative, this is because no one canceled the condensate on the walls due to the temperature difference, and in the spring the pit was again flooded with riding water from melted snow. Well, these are trifles, still not 1.5 meters of water, which, when pumped out, again flow in another week.
During this time, the screed almost cracked in half. It was made without any reinforcement, in a thin layer, from some unknown concrete, and even on water-saturated soil, in general, the result is predictable. The ceresite had partly fallen off the walls. Pieces big and small. It fell off in a place where the wall of the pit froze through in winter and there was a layer of ice. It fell off in pieces where small "springs" oozed from the masonry. Well, where, apparently, I pre-finished the wall with a grinder. I think oil and other stains simply did not allow ceresite to cling to the wall.
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316
Eugene, flood, design, architecture;)
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316 Address: Vladimir
I thought for a long time, consulted how to win this case. I read, asked a designer friend, builders. There are solutions, but they are such that it is cheaper to sell the garage for nothing, add money and buy in a new, dry place. There are all kinds of compositions, such as penetron, ceresite, etc. But in our stores they just don’t lie like that and a bag, and even a couple of bags for me personally no one is lucky from Moscow. And the price of all these miracle compositions, to put it mildly, is not popular. There are also firms specializing in the fight against water in the basements of buildings. These prices are not worth mentioning at all. The designer and the builders proposed to make a project, for money, of course, then something to do there according to this project, like building a Dneproges for my money) There was also a proposal to drill wells 15-20-30 meters deep and water will go into them. ..in general, the solutions are real, working at 100% but on a large construction site. In general, not an option for a private trader.
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316
Eugene, flood, design, architecture;)
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316 Address: Vladimir
I found the solution. First, it's flat slate. the material is available, relatively inexpensive, which was available in our construction market. It can be easily cut with a grinder. Naturally in a respirator and a disk on a stone. Dust flies - don't worry, mom! Sawing on the street, otherwise the garage would not be cleaned. Yes, and there is little benefit from inhaling this rubbish.
The second material is IVSIL Hydroseal, it seems to be called that. Sold in plastic jars, about half a kilo each, I don’t remember the packaging. And I bought it for about 350 rubles, or something ... Also available.
Well, I quite liked the ceresite, about which I wrote above. Not cheap, but simple material and was available in our stores.
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316
Eugene, flood, design, architecture;)
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316 Address: Vladimir
Battle with water, take two) I bought everything I needed. Again he pumped out the water from the pit and began to methodically and slowly close up the pressure cracks with a "hydraulic seal". A funny composition, you need to be able to use it, I did not immediately master it, although I always read the instructions. If anyone is interested, I'll tell you more.
The fight against leaks is still fun. Plugged one in and a new one appeared. The big ones were hammered with wooden “chepiks”, but not very successfully. Instead of a small leak, large ones turned out, sometimes the holes diverged into hairline cracks and water also flowed from them .. in general, for a week I sealed all the cracks until the level of a small puddle at the bottom of the pit did not rise.
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316
Eugene, flood, design, architecture;)
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316 Address: Vladimir
When everything was patched up, I again washed all the walls and the floor with water and a hairbrush. He wiped it so that there were no large puddles on the floor. With a wide sickle soaked in ceresite, I glued all the corners of the pit in two layers. When the serpyanka dried up, I again went through it with ceresite, as well as all the cracks that I sealed with a hydroseal.
Stop, to be continued
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316
Eugene, flood, design, architecture;)
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316 Address: Vladimir
Here I am) Yes, I mixed it up a bit. Before gluing the corners, I again made a screed on the floor. Thicker and reinforced it with a thick masonry mesh. It seems to be liquid glass added.
So, the most interesting thing) I cut off a single piece of flat slate according to the size of a short wall and glued it like a huge tile on a good frost and water resistant tile adhesive. I don't remember Mark. I did not do it alone, with my father. Although a third person would not hurt - the pieces are large and heavy. Moreover, he smeared with tile glue both the sheet and the wall. I applied it with a notched trowel - it's easier to adjust the layer thickness, it is convenient to distribute it over the surface and grooves are obtained with which it is easier to sink such large surfaces to the desired depth. It took a lot of glue, the layer is large, since the walls are far from ideal, and the sheets themselves were slightly curved from storage.
Then they glued the sheet to the other end of the pit, and then to the long sides. I got almost whole pieces. The fewer stitches, the more successful the operation will be. The bottom line is to block leaks, prevent the formation of new ones, and reduce the number of places where water can ooze. In this case, these are the seams between the sheets of flat slate. But we know where they are, which means that in case of a leak, we can again waterproof them with a hydraulic seal.
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316
Eugene, flood, design, architecture;)
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316 Address: Vladimir
Then quite funny and interesting - a whole piece on the floor) was lowered with the help of flat slinging belts. Just pulled them back. In general, everything worked out. Four walls and the floor are lined with solid sheets of flat slate. The whole thing is left to dry. Then he again reinforced all the joints between the sheets with sickle in two layers on ceresite. To be continued.
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316
Eugene, flood, design, architecture;)
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316 Address: Vladimir
It turned out to be a very solid foundation. Waterproof, with a minimum of seams, relatively inexpensive and accessible to everyone. By monitoring these seams, one can see exactly where the leak has occurred if all of the above fails.
I went even further. The slate material is quite strong, but still prone to easy splitting and breaking through the bottom of the inspection hole by dropping a hammer there or something heavier, when repairing a car, you can easily. Then all the trouble with the elimination of the seams will go down the drain, because there is no guarantee that the whole sea is not splashing under this sheet and is not waiting in the wings)
I got (perhaps the most appropriate word) a freebie of different tiles. Ordinary and unusual, ceramic and porcelain tiles. There are places where you can get it cheaply or for free. At construction sites, in tile stores, they sell battle, sorting and leftovers, throw them away after repairs, etc. And with this different tile, I completely laid out the bottom of the pit, the end (short) walls and laid them out in one row along all sides of the long walls. The tile remains, but there is no time and desire to mess around) Maybe I'll finish it.
I wanted to fill the seams with liquid tar. Bought a jar to try. Opened ... sniffed, presented the process ... and scored. I smeared all the seams between the tiles with the same ceresite. It is necessary to carefully rub the grout into the seams, so that there are no voids. And under the tiles and sheets of slate, it is necessary to reduce the number of voids to a minimum, because the water in the voids will freeze in winter and tear off all this creativity. The quality of each operation is very important here. Water will find a crack. Now, she can't find it.
Yes, I tried to lay the tile in such a way that it would overlap the seams between the sheets, especially in the corners.
Actually, the whole process.
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316
Eugene, flood, design, architecture;)
Registration: 04/08/13 Messages: 4.628 Acknowledgments: 6.316 Address: Vladimir
Now the second winter of my new viewing hole has begun. Last winter there was only sauerkraut in jars. In this there, potatoes, markoshka and a bit of beets live perfectly.
Water is present, in the form of a small puddle in one corner. I think this is condensation, since the walls are damp, and the level in the puddle does not fall or rise.
Yes, the floor must be done with a slope so that the water accumulates in one direction. Regardless of how she got there.
The accumulation of moisture in the cellar always negatively affects both the items and products stored in it, and the structure of the building itself. Therefore, each owner should know if water accumulates in the basement of a private house, what to do and how to protect the property. "Plumber Portal" will talk about the main ways to protect and drain the cellar from groundwater, precipitation and excess moisture. But first it is necessary in the reasons why the basement is flowing.
To find out how to get rid of water in the cellar, you need to determine the reason why it gets there.
The main reasons for the accumulation of excess moisture in the basement are as follows:
- the appearance of cracks in the foundation of a private house. Cracks in the foundation of the building appear as a result of a violation of the construction technology of the foundation of the house. Even if the gaps are microscopic, moisture penetrates into the cellar through the smallest capillaries, which causes fungus to appear and mold and fungus multiply;
- an increase in the level of groundwater. If the basement waterproofing was performed poorly, then when the ground water level rises, moisture accumulates in the basement, causing damage to the foundation as well;
- seasonal heavy rainfall. The main source of groundwater is heavy rainfall and snowmelt.
When the basement is frequently flooded, calcium is removed from the concrete in the building structure, reducing its strength and reliability. To avoid the destruction of the building, you need to know how to get rid of water in the cellar of a garage or residential building.
How to get rid of water with a pump
What to do if flooding has already occurred, how to pump water out of basements? The easiest way is to use a drainage pump for this. Even if you do not have such equipment, then in almost every city there are organizations that rent pumps or provide water pumping services at a very reasonable price.
To independently remove the liquid accumulated in the cellar using a drainage pump, follow these instructions:
- Make a recess in the center of the room below the floor level. Insert a plastic barrel or other vessel into it, which will perform the function of a caisson.
- Make several perforated holes in the walls of the tank on the sides.
- To keep liquid out of the holes, wrap the barrel with a waterproof cloth.
- At the bottom of the vessel, pour a layer of fine gravel, which will play the role of a foundation for pumping equipment.
- Then install the pump inside the caisson, and fill the wall space with concrete mortar.
- Connect the liquid suction hose and liquid discharge pipe to the instrument.
- When the recess begins to fill with water, a special float will determine the liquid level, and the pump will automatically start to work, pumping out unnecessary moisture.
- When the water is pumped out, the float will lower and the pump motor will turn off.
In this way, flooding of the basement can be prevented and the property located in it can be preserved. In addition, the drainage pump is able to quickly drain the foundation of the building and get rid of the moisture accumulated in it. Even if some water remains in the cellar, a properly equipped ventilation system will remove excess moisture and dampness.
If the basement is leaking - equip a pit!
When the basement constantly flows, what to do in this case? The most effective way is to build a pit inside the cellar of a private house. This is a budget and less troublesome option for a drainage system.
To build a pit correctly, https: // site recommends following our instructions:
- Right in the center of the cellar, dig a square hole with a volume of at least 1 cubic meter. The larger the room, the larger the pit should be.
- In the center of the recess, make another hole about the size of a bucket of 10-12 liters.
- Lower an enameled or galvanized bucket into the recess, and carefully compact the soil around it.
- Line the walls of the pit with solid brick, and then fill it with a layer of cement mortar 2-3 cm thick.
- From above, lay a grate of reinforcement with such a mesh size that you can pump water out of the bucket using a pump or manually, for example, with a mug.
- For drainage in the pit, make small grooves or lay tiles. The joints between the parts will act as grooves for draining the liquid.
As you can see, making the simplest drainage system, if the basement is constantly flowing, is very simple, the main thing is to do everything in stages and according to the rules.
Cellar protection from groundwater
A common problem faced by owners of private houses: groundwater in the basement, what to do in this case?
Since the main cause of flooding is the rise in the groundwater level as a result of seasonal rainfall, two methods can be used to protect the basement from groundwater:
- Arrange an annular drainage around the walls of the structure at the level of the base of the foundation.
- Make high-quality waterproofing of the walls and floor of the cellar.
An external drainage system is the most effective way to protect the basement from flooding, but also the most technically complex and expensive. But in the end you will get the best protection against basement flooding.
To install an external drainage system, follow the following algorithm of actions:
- Along the perimeter of the house, stepping back 30-70 cm from the foundation, dig a trench about 100-120 cm wide.
- On the four sides of the trench, make additional bends about 5 meters long.
- At the end of each additional outlet, make a recess for installing a concrete ring.
- Line the bottom of the main trench with geotextile.
- Lay a drainage pipe over the geotextile substrate and install manholes every 7 meters
- Then fill the pipe with several layers of the following materials:
- the first layer of crushed stone is filled up to a level of 10 centimeters before the end of the foundation;
- a second layer of sand to the top of the building's foundation;
- the third layer of large gravel to a level of 15 centimeters before the end of the soil.
- Then fill the crushed stone with a layer of concrete mortar to the ground level.
Properly executed external drainage, together with high-quality internal waterproofing and a ventilation system, will help to avoid flooding the basement.
In addition, the synthesis of functional systems will help create an optimal microclimate, help drain the basement in case of increased humidity.
Drainage system from the basement and foundation
The surface drainage system will protect the basement and foundation from flooding by seasonal natural precipitation - rain or snowmelt.
The choice of one or another method of eliminating water in the basement depends on many factors: the features of the terrain, the depth of groundwater, the chemical composition of the soil and other factors.
There are three types of drainage, each of which has its own characteristics:
- Wall mounted. The arrangement of this type of drainage system is necessary for those buildings where there is a basement or basement. Its arrangement is carried out immediately after pouring and hardening of the foundation of the house.
- Trench, or ring. Such drainage can be easily organized with your own hands. It looks like a deep trench dug around the house.
Important! Ring, or trench, drainage should be 0.4-0.5 meters below the level of the foundation of the building.
- Plast. The drainage reservoir system is laid at the stage of digging a foundation pit for the future structure. It is rarely used in modern construction, as it is used only in slab construction.
Choosing this or that removal of water from the house, it is necessary to proceed from your own capabilities and architectural features of the building. The trench system is considered the most effective.
How to drain a basement after a flood?
What to do if the cellar flooded and how to drain the basements, because the accumulated water in the basement is a violation of the comfort of living and a serious threat to the reliability of the entire structure.
Important tips for flooding your basement include a few things:
- Choose the right fertilizer. As soon as water appeared in the basement, you need to remove the liquid. If the flooding is minor, then dry the wet areas with towels and a mop. In case of deep flooding, equipment should be used: a sump pump, a water vacuum.
- Remove liquid. Pumping equipment will need an outlet to pump water. If the underground is flooded, then the drains in the basement may not be available to drain. You will need a hose to attach to the pump to run it through windows or doors to drain fluid.
- Dry the room. If the rain is over, open the windows to get the moisture out of the room. Once the water is cleared from the basement floor, it's time to start drying the area. If the heating operation has not been affected by flooding, turn up the heat to a higher temperature to aid in the drying process.
Do not forget to open the windows so that the moisture also evaporates into the air. And also use a fan to circulate the air to speed up the drying process.
Another way to dry out the cellar is to use a dehumidifier. When operating this equipment, be sure to close windows and doors for efficient operation. When the dehumidifier has finished extracting moisture in one area, move it to another area.
Prevention measures
To get rid of water and avoid such a problem in the future, take all measures to arrange high-quality drainage in a timely manner. There are several methods to keep your basement dry and avoid flooding:
- Focus on prevention. Before a flood situation arises, you need to inspect your property inside and out, and determine what are the ways to get rainwater out of the house.
- Remove leaves from the gutter in spring and fall. Blocked channels cause all the water on the roof to flow onto the foundation, increasing the chance of basement flooding.
- Extend the rain gutter outside the house, it can be hidden in a pit. To fix the part, strengthen with mortar using a small concrete plant, which is located on the site. Do not connect drainpipes to underground dry wells. This will lead to the fact that the water on the roof will saturate the earth even more and in the future the liquid will not stop, it will reach the basement.
- During a heavy downpour, watch the water build up around the house and see the main flow of the liquid. If surface water is directed towards a built dwelling, contact your local contractor for advice on how to protect the yard so that the water is directed away from the structures.
Thus, if water accumulates in the basement of a private house, what to do is known: to create a high-quality waterproofing and drainage system. Drainage will take the brunt of heavy rains, snowmelt, groundwater, and high-quality external or internal waterproofing will protect the cellar from seepage of water through the pores of concrete, from dampness and flooding of the room.
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