In this article, we will analyze in detail the design and construction of a monolithic concrete floor on the ground. Under the "floor on the ground", further in the article, we will understand the concrete floor, made inside the contour of the foundation, right on the ground. Let's take a look at common questions related to this floor and the structure itself from ground to finish.
With what types of foundations can you make a floor on the ground
The concrete floor on the edge can be used for strip foundation, and with a columnar foundation (or a foundation using TISE technology). slab foundation itself (by its design) is immediately a floor on the ground. With a strip foundation, the floor structure, as a rule, adjoins the foundation wall.
Rice. 1. Adjoining the floor on the ground to the strip foundation
Rice. 2. Adjoining the floor on the ground to column foundation with a low grillage
With a columnar foundation or a foundation using TISE technology, the floor structure on the ground can be adjacent to the grillage (if the grillage is low), or located below the grillage (if the grillage is high).
In the case of a high grillage, the gap between the floor structure and the grillage is closed when the floor is filled, for example, with boards (can be unedged). These boards remain in the structure, they are not removed, Figure 3.
Rice. 3. Adjoining the floor on the ground to the columnar foundation in the case of a high grillage
The height of the floor device on the ground relative to the strip foundation
Rice. 4. Floor on the ground on the tape extension
Rice. 5. The floor on the ground is adjacent to the wall of the strip foundation
Rice. 6. The floor on the ground is located above the foundation tape
Rice. 7. Floor on the ground adjacent to the top of the tape
There are no constructive mandatory recommendations regarding the mark (height) of the floor device on the ground. It can be arranged at any height shown in Figures 4-7 above. The only thing you need to pay attention to when choosing this option is where the front door will be in height. It is advisable to attach to the mark of the bottom of the door so that there is no difference between the bottom of the door and the floor, as in Figure 8, or so that you do not need to then cut an opening in the tape under the door.
Rice. 8. Height difference between the floor on the ground and the doorway
Rice. 9. Floor on the ground flush with the doorway
Note: It is better (more correct) to provide an opening for the front door at the stage of pouring the tape. Just do not flood this place, insert boards or polystyrene there, so that an opening remains in the tape. If you forgot to leave the opening, then you will either have to make the entire floor higher (and this will increase the cost of backfilling), or cut an opening in the finished tape, cut the reinforcement in it, loosen it, etc.
Thus, if the opening under the front door is made correctly (at the stage of pouring the tape), then we arrange the floor on the ground so that the top of the floor is flush with the opening under the door (taking into account the finishing coating). In order to correctly calculate the thickness of the floor structure, and determine from what mark you need to start its construction, you need to understand what all its layers will be in thickness, what it depends on. More on this later.
There are no such cases. Even when high level ground water, then it is more correct to arrange a monolithic floor on the ground than a floor on logs, for example. The type of soil, seismic, freezing level - all this also does not affect the possibility of constructing such a floor.
Note: We do not consider situations when the house is raised above the ground on piles, it is clear that then such a floor is not suitable.
Floor construction options on the ground
Rice. 10. Floor construction on the ground at ground water level higher than 2 m (with waterproofing)
Rice. 11. Floor construction on the ground at low groundwater level, below 2m, with backfill
Rice. 12. Floor construction on the ground at low groundwater level, below 2m, without filling, with pouring instead of a rough screed
Rice. 13. Floor construction on the ground at low groundwater level, below 2m, without filling, with a rough screed
Rice. 14. Floor construction on the ground in combination with a warm floor
Note: Figure 14 shows underfloor heating pipes and a reinforcing mesh above them. Between the floor pipes and the reinforcing mesh, - no gap, just drawn for clarity.
Description of the main layers of the floor on the ground
Let's analyze the main layers (pie) of the floor on the ground. We consider the design from the bottom - up. We will describe all the layers that may be, without reference to a specific pattern.
- compacted soil- the basis for the device of a floor, has to be qualitatively condensed;
- Backfill layers(sand 7-10 cm and gravel 7-10 cm). Backfill layers can be made to protect against capillary rise of water and can be made as a leveling layer. Crushed stone in the bedding layer should be of a fraction of 30-50 mm (large). The sand in the bedding layer can be any, both river and quarry (ravine). It depends on the purpose for which the backfilling is done, whether it is possible to replace crushed stone with expanded clay, you can read about this in the paragraph Is it possible to replace crushed stone with expanded clay, in the same article, below. It is important that the layers of backfill are well compacted. There are conditions when a bedding device is mandatory, and when it is not. You can read about this in the paragraph What determines the design of the floor on the ground, in the same article, below;
- Rough floor screed on the ground. This is a layer on top of the bedding or compacted soil. Executed by polyethylene film(it spreads on the ground or bedding), the thickness of the rough screed is 5-7 cm. It can not be reinforced. Sometimes a rough screed is replaced with a spill. About spilling - in the next paragraph, about when it is possible to replace a rough screed with a spill - in the paragraph Is it possible to replace a rough screed with a spill, in the same article, below. Crushed stone in the design of the rough screed should be a fraction of 5-10 mm (fine). The sand in the design of the rough screed must be river, not quarry (ravine);
- Spilling (filling) the floor on the ground. It is arranged by spilling a layer of bedding with a solution. The thickness of the pouring is equal to the thickness of the bedding layer. It is arranged without a plastic film;
- Waterproofing. It is arranged from roofing material, 1-2 layers. Roofing material can be taken the most common, without sprinkling. There are conditions when waterproofing is required. You can read about this in the paragraph What determines the design of the floor on the ground, below;
- . We recommend using EPS with a density of 28-35 kg / m 3, or polystyrene with a density of 30 kg / m 3 and higher as a heater for the floor on the ground. The thickness of the insulation is determined by calculation (depending on the climatic zone);
- Finishing screed. The thickness of the final screed is 7-10 cm. The crushed stone in the construction of the final screed should be a fraction of 5-10 mm (fine). The sand in the construction of the finishing screed must be river, not quarry (ravine). A finishing screed (unlike a rough screed) is necessarily reinforced. Reinforcement is carried out with a mesh with a wire diameter of 3-4 mm. How to choose, 3 mm or 4 mm, is written in the paragraph What determines the design of the floor on the ground, below;
- Finish coating. Finishing floor covering on the ground can be any. Accordingly, the details of the device are different for each type of coverage.
The presence and sequence of floor layers on the ground
What determines the design of the floor on the ground:
- From the level of occurrence of groundwater;
- From whether these floors will be with heat carriers (warm) or not;
- From operational loads on the floors.
How exactly the construction of the floor on the ground depends on these factors, we will analyze below.
1. By the presence of waterproofing. Our recommendations: to arrange waterproofing from roofing material (1-2 layers), if the groundwater level lies closer than 2 m from the bottom of the floor along the ground. In addition, when the groundwater is located closer than 2 m, we recommend that you make sure to add sand and gravel, Figure 10. If the level is lower than 2 m, then you can make the floor without waterproofing. At a level lower than 2 m, sand and gravel filling is not required, Figure 11, 12, 13.
Note: You need to focus on the highest groundwater level that can be on a particular construction site. That is, to watch how high the water rises in spring, during floods, etc., and this is the level to take into account.
2. If there are heat carriers in the floor structure on the ground, it is necessary to make a gap between the walls and the floor, 2 cm. This requirement is the same for both water and electric underfloor heating. The gap is made at the level of the finishing screed (with coolant). All layers below the finishing screed are placed to the walls without a gap, Figure 14. You can read more about installing a water-heated floor in the article.
3. If it is planned that something heavy (heavier than 200 kg / m 2) will be placed on the floor on the ground, then we reinforce the finishing screed with a mesh with a wire diameter of 4 mm. If the load is up to 200 kg / m 2, then it can be reinforced with a wire mesh with a diameter of 3 mm.
Important points when installing a floor on the ground
These important points I would like to sort it out on the basis of questions that, as a rule, readers of our portal have when installing a floor on the ground.
Can interior walls be placed on this floor?
Yes, on a 4 mm wire-reinforced screed, you can put internal walls made of brick (in brick), from a partition block (100 mm), and walls half a block thick. By "block" is meant any block (expanded concrete, shell rock, aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc.)
Can crushed stone in the bedding layer be replaced with expanded clay?
Backfilling is performed, as a rule, in order to break the capillary rise of water. Expanded clay swells from water, and, as a bedding material, is not suitable. That is, if the bedding was planned as additional protection against water, such a replacement cannot be done. If the backfill was planned not as a protection, but simply as a leveling layer, and the water is far away (deeper than 2 m from the base), and the soil is constantly dry, then crushed stone can be replaced with expanded clay for flooring on the ground.
Can crushed stone in the bedding layer be replaced with broken bricks, building materials waste?
It is forbidden. If the backfill was planned as an additional protection against water, then broken bricks and other waste will not fulfill their task in the backfill. If the backfill was planned not as a protection, but simply as a leveling layer, then we also do not recommend such a replacement, since these materials are of different fractions, it will be difficult to compact them with high quality, and this is important for the normal operation of the floor structure.
Is it possible to replace crushed stone in the bedding layer with expanded clay, pour more of it, and then not put insulation?
To replace 50-100 mm of EPPS (that's how much on average is needed to insulate the floor on the ground), you will need 700-1000 mm of expanded clay. Such a layer cannot be compacted with high quality, so we do not recommend doing this.
Is it possible not to reinforce the screed?
You can not reinforce the rough screed. It is imperative to reinforce the finishing screed.
Is it possible to reinforce the screed with a non-mesh? Is it possible to put just metal bars in the screed instead of a reinforcing mesh, without tying them together, or other metal parts?
No, in order for reinforcement to work, it must be performed by a mesh.
Can waterproofing be laid directly on the layers of backfill?
No, waterproofing must be laid on a flat and solid base (in our case, this rough screed), otherwise it will quickly become unusable due to uneven loads.
Is it possible not to make a rough screed and put waterproofing or insulation (if there is no waterproofing) directly on the layers of backfill?
For waterproofing dismantled in the paragraph above. Insulation must also be laid on a flat and solid base. This base is the rough screed. Otherwise, the insulation may move, and subsequent layers too, and this may lead to cracks in the floor.
Is it possible to do a spill instead of a rough screed?
Let's analyze what we mean by "rough screed" and "pouring". A rough screed is a layer on top of the bedding or compacted soil. It is carried out on a polyethylene film (it spreads on the ground or bedding), the thickness of the rough screed is 5-7 cm. The thickness of the pouring is equal to the thickness of the bedding layer. It is arranged without a plastic film. Now about whether it is possible to replace the rough screed with a spill. If the water is closer than 2 m, and the bedding (sand and gravel) was carried out as a layer that prevents capillary rise, then watering cannot be done. Because the spilled rubble will not cut off the capillary rise of water. If the backfill was carried out for leveling purposes, and the water is deeper than 2 m, then you can do the spill instead of the rough screed. If there is no backfill at all, and the screed is carried out directly on the compacted soil, then both a rough screed and a spill can be done. It only turns out that it makes no sense to do the spill, since for it you still have to pour sand about 3 cm and crushed stone about 10 cm, and the sand in this case is river, and the crushed stone is about 10 mm fraction. In general, it is easier to perform a regular rough screed.
Does polyethylene under the rough screed replace waterproofing?
The function of this layer is to prevent concrete milk from going into the layers of backfill or into the ground. This layer is purely technological, it does NOT replace the main waterproofing (roofing material over the rough screed). If the water is deeper than 2 m, then waterproofing (roofing material) is not needed, but this does not mean that we “replaced” it with polyethylene. It's just that these layers have a different function, and do not replace one another. When installing a rough screed and water deeper than 2 m, a layer of polyethylene is still needed.
Where is it correct to place the reinforcing mesh in the finishing screed?
Does it matter where exactly the reinforcing mesh is located in the finishing screed layer (bottom, top or center)? If the screed is without heat carriers, then the mesh should be located 3 cm from the top of the screed (that is, approximately in the middle). If the screed is with heat carriers, then the mesh must be on top of the pipes, plus 2-3 cm of the protective layer.
Rice. 15. Finishing screed without coolants, reinforcement
Rice. 16. Reinforcement of the finishing screed with coolants
Building a house is a long-term process and includes a huge number of works in various directions. This is the erection of walls, and the construction of the roof, and a host of other types of work. One of the mandatory steps is the filling of the rough screed. It is necessary to create the primary base, on which the finishing screed or finishing coating will then be laid. A rough screed does not require special qualifications of the builder, but, nevertheless, it involves a large number of works associated with its creation.
Creating smooth floors in a new home is not the easiest thing to do. And it is the construction of a rough screed that is the main stage on the way to a flat base suitable for laying. various kinds coatings. It ensures the reliability of the base and its strength. This is a rather time-consuming and time-consuming process, but at the same time financially quite economical.
As a rule, laying a rough screed on the first floors is carried out directly on the ground. And most often, an ordinary concrete mixture made from sand and cement is used as a base material.
However, quite simple process the creation of a rough screed cannot be called. The fact is that it involves laying several layers of various materials and several preparatory stages:
- soil preparation - it must be carefully compacted;
- laying sand and gravel;
- flooring of waterproofing material, insulation;
- installation directly of the rough screed itself;
- installation of finishing material.
Thus, the floor consists of several layers. And this design has its own name - the pie of the floor. It may also contain . Reinforcement is necessary to increase the strength of the screed.
Important! A rough screed can only be built on dry ground. On a wet, full-fledged one, it will not be possible to create it, since problems with waterproofing may arise. Also, a rough screed can only be mounted if groundwater occurs at least 4 m to the surface.
Also, during the installation of a rough screed, an underfloor heating system and other communications, if any, are necessary according to the house construction project.
In general, a concrete floor on the ground in private construction is probably the most acceptable option for creating a foundation. It is often laid inside garages, on terraces, verandas, in warehouses and others.
On a note! Most often, concrete floors on a soil base are equipped where there is no severe cold in winter period, that is, in the middle or southern strip of the Russian Federation. In cold regions, it is recommended to use wood to create the base of the floor.
In the photo - crushed stone bedding
Main advantages
If we consider the main advantages of creating a floor on the ground, then we can determine the following.
- Ease of all work. In general, creating a floor pie when right approach takes only a few hours.
- High strength and resistance to deformation will ensure a long service life of the floor finish.
- Such a base has good indicators of heat, hydro and sound insulation. Such a floor, even in cold weather, will not critically freeze, which will keep the house warm and cozy.
- One of the factors is economy. Arranging a rough screed is not as expensive as it might seem at first glance.
Thanks to all these advantages, many future home owners choose it as a base, and not created from any other materials.
Types of rough screed
Rough, like a regular screed, can be different types. It all depends on the laying technology and the materials used. It can be done both dry and wet.
Dry floor screed- this is a kind of multilayer cake, where the layers are vapor barrier (or waterproofing), expanded clay or sand, acting as a dry "cushion", as well as any leveling material such as chipboard, OSB, plywood or gypsum fiber, depending on the wishes of the owner of the future home. Often, the material can be laid not in one, but in two layers, while individual sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws.
Wet screed made on the basis cement-sand mixture, which will be poured over previously laid other layers and carefully leveled. A waterproofing layer and insulation can be laid under it, without fail - a sand cushion.
On a note! There is also a semi-dry screed. If in the previous version the mixture during preparation and use will resemble sour cream in consistency, then in the version with a semi-dry screed it will look like wet sand.
Rough screed device diagrams
Depending on the level at which groundwater occurs, as well as depending on the level of the soil and the position of the screed relative to the foundation, there are several types of it.
Table. Types of arrangement of the rough screed.
| Type of screed | Description |
|---|---|
| Screed below ground level | This method is used if under the floor it is planned to equip premises for storing food or warehouses. In this case, the screed is located below the ground level, adjacent to the foundation. |
| Screed at ground level | It can be used both in industrial construction and in the construction of residential low-rise buildings. The screed is at ground level and is adjacent to the strip foundation. |
| Screed above ground level | In this case, the screed is mounted above the foundation level, it is most effective and expedient to use it in places where groundwater occurs quite close to the surface, in areas where the risk of floods and flows is high. |
In general, there is no universal scheme for arranging a screed - depending on the design of the house, it can be performed in any of the above options. However, it is important to accurately design the location and level before construction begins. doorways so you don't have to correct mistakes later.
Foundation preparation process
All work on the arrangement of the rough screed begins with a thorough preparation of the soil base. To begin with, it is important to identify, taking into account the level of the soil and the evenness of its surface, the highest and lowest points. The laser level will help determine their values. This procedure is necessary in order to evaluate the entire scope of work for yourself, as well as to determine how much building materials may be required.
It is also important to pay attention to the thorough compaction of the soil. To do this, you can use special construction equipment - for example, a roller or a vibrator. The procedure is necessary so that in the future the soil does not significantly subside and this does not entail cracking of the rough screed, which will undoubtedly have a negative impact on the finishing flooring.
After the soil has been carefully compacted, a sand and gravel cushion is laid. It can also be made from clean, washed and river sand. The thickness of this layer should not be more than 60 cm. In the latter case, a layer of gravel or expanded clay is also poured on top, which will make it possible to create a more solid foundation.
Attention! Before the soil is compacted, it is important to cut off the entire fertile layer, if any, from it. He can find a more worthy use than burial under the house. The soil layer is removed by about 35 cm.
It is also recommended to fill the pillow not all at once, but in layers - for example, 20 cm each. In this case, each layer is well rammed separately. The procedure will make the base as dense as possible. Before tamping, the pillow is wetted with water. The thickness of the expanded clay layer can be at least 10 cm. This layer is also separately rammed.
Prices for popular models of electric vibrorammers
electric vibrorammer
Rough screed layer and waterproofing
Another milestone when creating a rough screed, this is its waterproofing. If it is neglected, then the moisture seeping out of the soil will “undermine” the concrete screed and, as a result, the base will become unusable and collapse, or at least it will last a very short time.
For waterproofing the rough screed is usually used roll materials- others in this case will be ineffective. The ideal option is to use rolled bituminous material or a waterproofing membrane. Less commonly, but still used dense polyethylene. The material must be laid in one large piece. If it is necessary to form joints (in the case of large areas), then they are carefully sealed - soldered or glued with construction tape so that water does not have a chance to penetrate to the base.
Attention! waterproofing material should not have defects - holes, otherwise it will not fulfill its role.
It is important to lay the waterproofing material in such a way that it extends 15-20 cm onto the walls. If necessary, after laying the finishing screed, the excess can be cut off. If the waterproofing material cannot be laid for some reason, then the final screed must be processed coating materials which can resist moisture and retain it.
thermal insulation
In order to make the floors as warm as possible, it is important not to skip the thermal insulation stage. Expanded clay, basalt wool, extruded polystyrene foam are used as a material that helps to keep warm. Laying the material is simple - the plates or layers of any of them are mounted butt-to-butt, without gaps, on a surface insulated from water. Thus, it will be possible to obtain a base that retains the heat as much as possible, which tends to leave the house.
Attention! After laying the insulation material, it is recommended to lay another layer of waterproofing. This will allow you to evenly pour the screed and protect the insulation from getting wet as much as possible in case of flooding. Wet insulation often loses most their properties.
The most convenient and simple option, but not the cheapest, is polystyrene foam. In addition to its thermal insulation functions, it makes floors stronger. Styrofoam can also be used as a heater. In this case, PSB50 grade material is used for garage and storage premises, and PSB35 grade for residential premises.
It is important to protect the foam from getting cement on it, which can destroy the material. To do this, the foam must be closed with plastic wrap. But mineral wool has one drawback, which sometimes scares off builders - it tends to absorb moisture, which is why waterproofing measures should be carried out especially carefully.
Reinforcement
Reinforcement is an additional reinforcement of the rough screed by laying a reinforcing mesh in it. This material is made from metal rods or plastic, is able to significantly strengthen the base and allow it to withstand maximum loads. The mesh is laid on top of the previously mounted layers on small supports so that during the pouring of the screed, it seems to be inside the cement-sand mixture, and not under it. If the mesh has not been raised, it will not perform its functions of strengthening the base. The approximate height of the grid level is about 2-3 cm. It is recommended to use a grid with a mesh size of no more than 10x10 cm. smaller size cells, the stronger the base will be, this is especially true for plastic mesh, which is also often used in construction.
fiberglass for concrete screed- replaces the reinforcement with a metal mesh
The goals set in construction can be achieved different ways. Paul is no exception. One of the simple, effective and reliable ways is considered to be a concrete floor on the ground in a private house.
The technology for installing floors on the ground is available, but requires strict adherence to the rules, which will be discussed below. The choice in favor of this method is due to the following advantages:
- Floors on the ground in a private house can be done with your own hands, without involving expensive lifting equipment for the installation of reinforced concrete floors.
- Available materials are used, the acquisition and delivery of which is not difficult.
- Economic benefit. The cost of installing a floor on the ground by this method can cost the owner of future housing much cheaper than using other methods.
- High quality. When designing, the desired characteristics of the concrete floor on the ground in a private house are laid down.
- There is no need to attract additional labor.
- Having the skills of general construction work, you can do all the work yourself.
Starting construction, one of essential conditions for many homeowners is a reasonable estimated cost. For this reason, many people try to do affordable operations in a private house with their own hands. A detailed step-by-step instruction will help to realize this desire. At the same time, recommendations will help to avoid typical mistakes and achieve optimal performance characteristics.
Using a finished reinforced concrete floor, the labor intensity of the process is reduced, but its costs for the purchase, transportation, and payment for lifting equipment increase sharply. A significant increase in costs, many try to avoid independent work.
Necessary materials for a concrete floor on the ground
It is advisable to purchase everything you need for work at a time. Professional builders know that transportation costs can exceed 10% of the estimated cost of the object. Sometimes paying for the delivery of missing materials can cost more than they themselves. Therefore, it is important to correctly determine the list of components, calculate them required amount everyone.
One of the key questions is how to insulate a concrete floor in a private house? The best solution today is considered to be used polystyrene boards. Mineral wool is used much less often, because it is too elastic and mobile. In exceptional cases, its use is allowed, but only when laying in the cells of a specially prepared crate or in the inter-lag space. Then a draft floor is made of boards, sheet materials.
The work becomes more laborious if it is decided to apply this material to the floors. Insulation on a concrete floor that can withstand the planned load without additional operations is preferable.
In addition, the estimated cost increases significantly without a noticeable improvement in performance. The only indicator where there is a clear advantage is sound insulation. But the ground is not a source of noise, so when choosing a heater for the floor, you should not think about it.
This advantage is completely devalued. In the vast majority of cases today, concrete floors are insulated with expanded polystyrene. This is justified by the following characteristics:
- economic benefit;
- sufficient strength;
- reliability of the material;
- long service life;
- environmental Safety;
- non-susceptibility to rotting, corrosion, mold, mosses and other microorganisms;
- polystyrene foam insulation for concrete floor is easy to process, which makes it convenient for independent work.
Such a heat-insulating layer is not hygroscopic, but small surface and capillary penetration is still observed. Floor insulation in this situation will lose its effectiveness over the years. Repeated seasonal freezing cycles can damage the material.
The thermal insulation of the concrete floor needs to be protected from the ingress of moisture into it, both groundwater and water from the mortar during the installation of the screed. A wide range of waterproofing materials will create a reliable barrier to liquid. Roll, sheet products of this category are used on a polymer or bitumen basis. The quantity is calculated taking into account overlaps and waste when cutting.
Main consumable by weight is the concrete mixture. It is possible to accurately determine the number of necessary components in a simple way. Without delving into the essence of complex professional formulas, experienced craftsmen use the following technique - 1 m 3 of the following grades of concrete contains cement:
- M 150 - 260 kg (cement M 300);
- M 200 - 290 kg (M 300 cement), 250 kg (M 400 cement) and 220 kg (M 500 cement);
- M 250 - 340 kg (M 300 cement), 300 kg (M 400 cement) and 250 kg (M 500 cement);
- M 300 - 350 kg (cement M 400) and 300 kg (cement M 500);
- M 400 - 400 kg (cement M 400) and 330 kg (cement M 500);
However, in terms of volume, this value can reach a difference of 6-7 times. Depending on the brand of cement, as well as the desired quality of concrete, crushed stone is imported at the rate of 4 to 7 tons per 1 ton of binder.
Soil compaction
The most important stage of work, on which the final quality and long service life of the floor depend. In cases of high soil density, low groundwater level, this operation can be ignored. Compacting the soil simply will not work. If, on the site, planning was carried out with the movement of soil layers, trees were uprooted, other vegetation was removed, then tamping is necessary.
The manual process is extremely labor intensive. For high-quality performance of the operation, a special device is made - manual rammer. Weight, size is selected based on their own capabilities. It is advisable to use this method for small amounts of work or to use it in hard-to-reach places.
The best solution would be to use an electric or pneumatic rammer. The speed of work and its quality are greatly increased. The next stage - the insulation of the concrete floor in a private house will be easier to do. A flat, dense surface is an ideal basis for a heat-insulating layer, the integrity of which during operation will determine the comfort in the house and protection from the penetration of cold.
The quality of soil tamping will increase significantly if, between operations for the physical compaction of the soil, abundant watering of the site with water is carried out. The number of voids is minimized. The soil softened under the action of moisture requires less physical effort during the operation.
If a subfloor is planned, then it is done first. In a private house, this is always the desired room. It is convenient for storing food, storing tools, tools for cultivating the land, items that are used seasonally.
Even if it is not possible to make a full-fledged basement under the whole house, a small volume of several cubic meters can be done without difficulty. A convenient entrance is being designed, Walls are made of masonry or monolithic pouring. As a base for further layers of coating, you can install wooden ceiling, or on the formwork to make a concrete floor.
Sand and gravel layer for concrete floor
It is not recommended to skip this step. Dense soil cannot be considered a guarantee of the final quality of work. A layer of sand and gravel compensates for the natural movement of the soil, relieves the resulting internal stresses. The scope of work largely depends on the quality of the soil. On stony and soil, in some cases it is enough to add sand with a thickness of about 10 cm.
If the soil is clayey, then it is advisable to supplement the layer with gravel or crushed stone. Soil used for agricultural purposes or having developed natural vegetation requires a different approach.
For example, black soil must be completely cleared of roots. After tamping, gravel is laid. Then sand is poured on it. Spilling water, make tamping again. Another layer of rubble is being laid. The final alignment is carried out according to the level of sand. Such a multi-layered base completely excludes possible problems when operating housing on soft soils.
The final stage of the work will be to check the entire area horizontally, inspect for the absence of sharp stones, other objects that can damage the waterproofing layer laid on the prepared sand and gravel base under load. A more reliable, high-quality method looks like laying a rough screed over rubble, which is then waterproofed and insulated.
This and the next step is recommended to be carried out as carefully as possible. The mobility of the sand and gravel layer is high. the best way to protect its integrity will be the foresight of the laid boards or sheets. The load is distributed evenly over a large area and will keep the plane for the subsequent laying of insulation.
waterproofing layer
The main purpose of the operation is to protect the insulation from moisture. There is a layer above the freezing level of the soil. If water enters, it will begin to destroy and reduce performance.
The film is laid with the necessary overlap. The joints are then sealed. Bitumen-based waterproofers are abundantly treated with a ready-made adhesive solution or, in the case of using the fusing method, liquefied by a burner to the required state of the material. Good waterproofing will protect the layer concrete floor insulation from unwanted exposure to moisture, and most importantly, it will allow you not to worry about the state of the insulation under the concrete layer.
Insulation laying
A layer of 8-10 cm is considered sufficient to effectively protect housing from the cold. The main rule of this stage is the creation of a single area, without cracks and gaps. How to insulate a concrete floor in a private house, observing the recommended characteristics?
You should know that gaps of even a few millimeters increase heat loss by 10-30%. There are several effective ways to fix this problem:
- cut out details as accurately as possible, achieving a snug fit;
- use special adhesives to create a sealed layer;
- install insulation boards with polyurethane foam, which, having a porous structure similar to the main materials, provides maximum efficiency thermal protection.
Experienced craftsmen easily eliminate large chips and cracks in the insulation coating with crushed polystyrene foam mixed with adhesive composition. With this method, the effectiveness of thermal protection practically does not decrease, since the mixture has characteristics identical to the main materials.
Waterproofing before pouring concrete
In order for concrete floors in a private house to provide reliable protection for housing, to serve for a long time, it is necessary to exclude moisture from entering the insulation. To do this, a waterproofing layer is made on top of the polystyrene plates. Optimal material for this operation are special films. Their strength characteristics allow you to fill the screed of the required thickness. The material is elastic, easily takes the desired shape.
The use of bitumen-based weld materials is highly discouraged at this stage. The temperature of such compounds is high and can damage polystyrene foam. Burner operation is completely excluded.
The joints are carefully glued with a special tape or the recommended composition. Popular today are waterproofing films with a layer of glue applied to them. Simply remove the protective paper or polymer material, lay the waterproofing tightly pressing it to the surface, observing the dimensions of the overlap indicated in the instructions.
Screed pouring and reinforcement
The last stage of work before finishing the floors. The solution is prepared according to traditional technology. Depending on the brand of cement and the desired characteristics of the screed, it may have a different composition. However, experimentation is not recommended in order to avoid loss of quality.
Too much a large number of cement will make the concrete too brittle, prone to cracking. If its percentage is less than the norm, then the screed will turn out to be too loose and fragile. When installing a warm floor, the design will turn out to be very effective, since there will be practically no energy loss.
There are several ways to reinforce the screed. You can do the work in two stages. First, the soil layer is laid. Reinforcing elements are mounted on it. Then the final filling completes the process. It should be remembered that the metal should be located in the body of the screed.
If you lay out the reinforcement immediately on the waterproofing layer, then the strength of the layer decreases. Concreting can be carried out in one operation, when the binding of metal is carried out on specially placed gaskets that raise the layer above the base to the required height.
To reinforce the concrete layer, you can use the available on the farm hardware. For example, corners, channel bars, other types of rolled products left after the construction of household structures, old pipes for water supply, heating, etc.
In the process of construction and arrangement basements, garages, various outbuildings, and sometimes even residential premises (of course, in regions with a warm mild climate), developers often prefer technology that involves the construction of a concrete floor on the ground.
After reviewing the information below, you will receive all the necessary information to independently conduct the event in question, refusing to involve third-party craftsmen in this work and significantly saving on the construction of the floor.
Before giving preference to the technology of the device of the design in question, familiarize yourself with key requirements to the soil shown in the following table.
Table. Soil requirements for a reliable concrete floor
Additionally, requirements are made directly to the building itself. It is important that the house is used for permanent residence or at least heated during the cold season. Otherwise, the ground will freeze, causing the concrete structure to deform.
Scheme of floors on the ground for a private house, garage, utility room
Concrete flooring technology on the ground
We do the floor after the completion of the construction of the walls and the arrangement of the roof / ceiling. Direct work on the device of the considered structure on the ground consists of several technological stages, the execution sequence of which is given below.
First stage. Marking the floor level
First we need to set the zero level of the future floor. To do this, we do the following:
Second phase. Clearing and compacting the soil
We proceed to the stage of preliminary preparation of the soil. First we need to get rid of construction debris if it exists. Next, we remove the top ball of soil. Traditionally, a multilayer concrete floor structure has a thickness of about 30-35 cm. We dig until the distance between the previously laid zero level line and the bottom of the pit reaches the specified value.
After that, we need to tamp and level the surface. Best Tool to perform this work - a special vibrating plate for tamping the soil. In the absence of such, we take a simple log, nail strong handles on top of it, nail a board from below and use the resulting device to compact the soil. We work until we get a fairly dense and even base. Special checks are not required: it is enough to walk along the ground and, if there are no indentations from the legs in it, we proceed to next step work.
Manual digging is never perfectly accurate. If the depth of the pit turned out to be more than the required thickness of the future concrete structure, we fill the difference with a layer of sand and carefully compact it.
Useful advice! You can use another solution to the above problem, first laying a layer of clay, spilling it with water, tamping it, filling it with sand and further compacting it. Such a system will provide additional waterproofing of the future concrete structure, preventing groundwater from penetrating into its structure.
Third stage. We make backfill
We fall asleep a 5-10 cm layer of gravel. We spill the backfill with water and thoroughly tamp. For greater convenience, we can pre-drive several rows of rebar trimmings or other similar material of the required length into the ground - this will make it easier for us to provide the required backfill height. It is important that the trimmings are set strictly according to the level. After arranging each planned layer, the pegs can be removed.
On top of the gravel, we pour about a 10-centimeter layer of sand. The pegs from the previous stage will help us control the thickness of the backfill. To carry out this event, it is not necessary to use sifted material - even ravine sand with minor impurities will do. The sand is also thoroughly tamped.
On top of the sand we fall asleep a layer of gravel. The material of a fraction of 4-5 cm is optimally suited. We compact the crushed stone. We pour a thin layer of sand on top, carefully level it and thoroughly tamp it down. If gravel with sharply protruding edges is found, we remove it or shift it so that there are no sharp corners throughout the plane.
Important! Each layer of backfill must be level. Similar requirements are imposed on the layers of the “pie” that are further equipped.
Fourth stage. We install moisture and heat insulating materials
To protect concrete from the harmful effects of moisture, we use a special waterproofing membrane or an ordinary polyethylene film. Optimally suitable material with a thickness of 200 microns. The work is carried out in an extremely simple sequence: we lay out the film on the base, bringing its edges a couple of centimeters above the zero level indicated in the previous stages, we lay the insulation sheets directly with a 10-15 cm overlap, and fix the joints with adhesive tape.
The structure can be insulated using a wide variety of materials, here is just a short list:
- expanded clay;
- mineral wool boards;
- Styrofoam;
- roll isolon, etc.
We lay the selected material, following the provisions of the relevant technology, and proceed to further work.
Fifth stage. We equip the reinforcing layer
The multilayer concrete structure is subject to mandatory reinforcement. We strengthen the floor with PVC or metal mesh to choose from. Also suitable for this task metal wire and rebar bars. They must first be tied into a grid (we select the size of the cells in accordance with the expected loads: for high ones we take 10x10 cm, for medium ones - 15x15 cm, for low ones 20x20 cm will be enough), using flexible steel wire to fasten the joints.
The reinforcing frame is laid on pre-installed stands having a height of about 20-30 mm.
Important note! In the case of hardening involving plastic mesh, the material is stretched on pegs previously driven into the base.
Sixth stage. We mount guides and formwork
Correct fill concrete mix on the zero level is impossible without the use of guides. We do the following:
Important! Before proceeding to the next stage of work, be sure to check the correct installation of the guides and formwork using a level. If there are differences, you simply cannot make a flat floor. To eliminate irregularities, it is enough to cut off the protruding places. You can raise the guides in the right places by placing bars of a suitable size under them or the same plywood.
Before pouring, be sure to process wooden elements special oil. Thanks to this, in the future we will be able to get the boards out of the solution without any difficulty.
Seventh stage. Pouring concrete and making a screed
We fill the previously created "maps" with concrete mortar. If possible, we try to fill in the entire mass at a time - so we get the most durable monolithic structure. If there is no possibility or desire to order ready concrete we do it ourselves.
Pouring concrete on lighthouses (option without maps)
To do this, we need a concrete mixer or a large suitable container for manual mixing, cement (we use material grades M400-500), a shovel, gravel, sand. We work according to the following recipe: 1 share of cement, 2 shares of sand, 4 shares of gravel and about 0.5 shares of water (it can change, we are guided in the process of work). Thoroughly mix the ingredients until a homogeneous mixture and proceed to further work.
It is most convenient to pour from an angle opposite to front door- in this case no need to walk on concrete. We pour several cards in 1, maximum 2 doses, level the solution and stretch the mixture. If there is a special vibrator, we use it to compact the mixture.
Formwork around pipelines
Having filled in several "cards", we proceed to leveling the base. A two-meter (possibly longer) rule will help us with this. We install the tool on the previously mounted guides and pull it towards us. So we get rid of excess concrete.
We take out guides and formwork from the processed “cards” (specialists usually do this a day after pouring, some earlier, we focus on the situation). In a similar sequence, we fill the entire site with concrete. After that, cover the base with plastic wrap and leave for a month to gain strength. In the process of drying concrete structure you need to regularly moisten with water so that it does not crack.
In conclusion, it remains for us to fill the screed. To do this, we use a special self-leveling mixture - the most convenient option, the arrangement of which does not require special knowledge and effort.
The leveling mixture will eliminate minor surface imperfections and allow you to get a perfectly even base. We traditionally start working from the corner opposite to the entrance to the room.
We prepare the solution according to the manufacturer's instructions, pour it on the floor and evenly distribute it over the surface using a long rule or other suitable tool. We specify the drying time of the mixture in the instructions, usually it is 2-3 days.
The concrete floor on the ground is ready. We just have to put the chosen flooring. Thanks to a properly equipped flat base, the finish will look beautiful and last as long as possible.
Now you know everything about the construction of a concrete floor on the ground and will be able to independently carry out the necessary activities. You just need to follow the guide and everything will definitely work out.
Successful work!
Video - Construction of a concrete floor on the ground
The simplest and accessible way performing a rough coating for a room for any purpose is the arrangement of a concrete floor on the ground. Although the procedure does not require special skills, the quality of the final floor directly depends on the observance of certain technical points related to its arrangement. How to make a concrete floor on the ground and how to pour a concrete floor on the ground, we will consider further.
Characteristics and components of the concrete floor on the ground
When arranging any floor on the ground, the main thing is to ensure its high-quality thermal insulation. It is because of its installation that in the end it is possible to obtain a multi-layered floor, called a pie.
The production of floors on the ground directly depends on the type of soil and its features. The first and most important requirement for the soil is the level at which groundwater is laid, which should be at least 500-600 cm from the surface. Thus, it will be possible to avoid movements and heaving of the soil, which will be reflected on the floor. In addition, the soil should not be loose.
For better performance of all work, it is necessary to determine the requirements for the installation of thermal insulation, which are as follows:
- prevention of heat loss;
- protection against groundwater penetration;
- providing sound insulation;
- prevention of vaporization;
- ensuring a comfortable and healthy indoor climate.
A warm concrete floor on the ground contains the following components and stages of work:
1. Cleansing the soil from the top layer. In addition, the surface is carefully leveled.
3. Then a pillow of gravel or crushed stone is installed on the sand. It is this area that prevents the rise of groundwater, in addition, it additionally levels the surface. The thickness of the filler layer is about eight centimeters.
4. The next layer is the use of reinforced steel mesh. It is an excellent fixer for the concrete base. In addition, it is a place for fixing metal pipes. Reinforced mesh is not used in all cases, but only if additional reinforcement is needed.
5. The next layer is more than 5 cm thick and is a subfloor. For its arrangement, a concrete solution is used. After it gains strength within 2-3 weeks, the next layer of the “pie” is installed on the surface.
6. This layer consists of a special membrane or waterproofing film that prevents the risk of absorbing excess liquid. concrete base. The film is laid with an overlap, in order to avoid the appearance of cracks, construction tape is used, with which all butt sections are glued.
7. The next step is the installation of insulation, which is recommended to use foamed polystyrene foam or high-density polystyrene with a foil coating. If there is too much load on the floor, it is better to use insulation in the form of plates.
8. Next, waterproofing or roofing material is installed. After which the construction of the final screed is carried out. It is on it that the final top coat. The thickness of this layer is from 8 to 11 cm. This screed needs to be reinforced.
Concrete floor in a house on the ground: advantages and disadvantages of arrangement
Among the advantages of manufacturing a concrete floor on the ground, it is worth highlighting:
- security reliable protection foundations from the effects of low temperature, the soil on which the floor is settled always differs only in temperature above zero;
- diversity thermal insulation materials for floor insulation allows you to build a structure with good performance prevention of heat loss;
- the floor that will turn out as a result is finished with any of the existing floor coverings;
- no special calculations are required for the floor, since the entire load is taken by the ground cover;
- the arrangement of a warm floor perfectly heats the room, in addition, they heat up quickly enough, and the heat is distributed evenly throughout the room;
- underfloor heating on the ground has good soundproofing characteristics;
- in addition, mold and dampness are practically not formed on such a floor.
Among the disadvantages of a rough concrete floor on the ground are:
- when using a multilayer floor, the height of the rooms is significantly reduced;
- in the event of a malfunction for dismantling, a lot of material resources will be required;
- the arrangement of the floor on the ground requires a large investment of material, physical and time resources;
- if the groundwater is too high or if the soil is highly loose, it is not possible to equip such a floor.
Construction of a concrete floor on the ground: the choice of materials
As mentioned earlier, for the arrangement of a concrete floor on the ground, it will be necessary to build a multi-layer structure. The use of river sand is recommended as the first layer, then crushed stone or expanded clay.
After their installation, a rough screed is installed, waterproofing film and thermal insulation. Next, a finishing screed is installed, which is the basis for laying finishing materials.
The main function of sand and crushed stone is to protect the premises from the penetration of moisture into it. When using crushed stone, it is necessary to carefully compact it, and crushed stone must be treated with bitumen.
If the soil is too wet, the use of expanded clay is unacceptable. Since it absorbs excess moisture, and then changes its shape. After covering the layer with a film based on polyethylene, a rough screed is poured, with a layer of about eight centimeters. Further, a waterproofing of two overlapped polyethylene layers is installed on it. Please note that polyethylene must be very tightly interconnected to prevent moisture from entering the room.
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- mineral wool;
- foam glass;
- polystyrene, etc.
After that, the finishing screed is arranged, which is necessarily reinforced. To ensure the evenness of the screed, the use of beacons is recommended.
Concrete floor on the ground manufacturing technology
The floor should be started only after the walls and roof have already been erected. Manufacturing procedure concrete pavement on the ground includes the following steps:
- carrying out work to determine the height of the floor and its marking;
- cleaning the top layer of soil and compacting the base;
- installation of gravel or gravel;
- hydro- and thermal insulation works;
- strengthening the concrete screed;
- installation of formwork for pouring mortar;
- direct filling.
The floor on the ground is built in such a way that it is flush with the doorway. Markings should be applied around the perimeter of the building. To do this, marks are installed on the walls, at a distance of 100 cm from the bottom of the opening. When the markup is done, it should be lowered back one meter. This line will become a guide for pouring concrete. For easier marking, it is necessary to install pegs on which the ropes are pulled along the corner parts of the room.
The next stage of work involves cleaning the base from the top layer of soil. First you need to get rid of any debris that is on the floor. Gradually remove all upper part soil. The concrete floor on the ground has the appearance of a structure, up to 35 cm thick. Therefore, the soil that is removed from the surface must be of exactly this thickness.
With the help of special equipment, such as a vibrating plate, the surface is compacted. In its absence, it is enough to use wooden log, with handles previously nailed to it. The resulting base should be even and dense. While walking, no marks should be left on it.
With a lower location of the soil in relation to the doorway, only its upper part is removed, the surface is well compacted, and then covered with sand.
Further work is carried out on the installation of gravel and gravel. After compaction of the base layer, backfilling with gravel is carried out, the thickness of this layer is about 10 cm. Tip: After backfilling, the surface is watered with water and compacted again. To simplify control over the evenness of the surface, it is necessary to drive pegs into the ground, set in relation to the level.
After the gravel layer is leveled with sand. The layer should have the same thickness, about 10 cm. In order to control the evenness of the surface, use the same pegs. For the arrangement of this layer, it is recommended to use ravine sand, which has various impurities.
On the sand, crushed stone is laid, with a fraction of 4x5 cm. Then it is compacted, and the surface is sprinkled with sand, leveled and compacted. Lay the gravel in such a way as to avoid the appearance of its protruding edges on the surface.
Please note that each of the layers laid on the floor must be previously checked for horizontality. Therefore, in the process of work, use the building level.
Thermal and waterproofing of the concrete floor on the ground
To create a waterproofing layer, it is enough to use a polyethylene film or membrane. The waterproofing material should be rolled out around the entire perimeter of the floor, try to bring its extreme sections a few centimeters beyond zero notation. The sheets are overlapped and fixed to the surface with adhesive tape.
In order to improve the thermal insulation of the floor and prevent freezing of the soil, it is recommended to treat the floor with mineral wool.
Features of the reinforcement of the concrete floor on the ground
In order for concrete to acquire the desired strength, it must be reinforced. To perform this process, it is recommended to use a metal or plastic mesh, reinforcement bars or reinforcing wire.
To install the reinforcing frame, special stands should be equipped, the height of which is about 2.5 cm. Thus, they will be located directly on the concrete floor.
Please note that the use of a plastic mesh involves stretching it on previously clogged pegs. When using wire, welding and the skill of working with it will be required to make a reinforcing frame.
In order for the pouring procedure to be quick and the result to be of high quality, it is necessary to install the guides and mount the formwork. Divide the room into several equal segments, the width of which is no more than 200 cm. Install guides in the form of wooden bars, the height of which is equal to the distance from the floor to the zero mark.
To fix the guides, use a thick cement, clay or sand mortar. A formwork is installed between the guides, which is the former of cards poured with concrete mortar. As a formwork, it is recommended to use plywood with moisture-resistant characteristics or wooden boards.
Please note that the guides and formwork are brought out to zero and aligned in relation to the horizontal surface. Thus, it will be possible to obtain a base that is distinguished by evenness. Before installing the guides and formwork, they should be treated with a special oil, which will facilitate the process of pulling them out of the concrete mixture.
Technology of pouring concrete floor on the ground
Filling is carried out once or maximum twice. Thus, it will turn out to build a homogeneous and powerful structure. In order for the concrete floor on the ground to serve its owners with their own hands for a long time, it is best to order a special concrete mortar from the factory. Its strength and quality is much higher than that of a home-cooked composition.
For self-manufacturing the solution will require the presence of a concrete mixer, cement grade not lower than 400, river sand and aggregate in the form of crushed stone.
In order to prepare a concrete mortar, one part of cement, two parts of sand and four parts of filler should be mixed, while, based on the total amount of ingredients, half of the water will be required.
All ingredients are mixed in a concrete mixer, make sure that all ingredients are well mixed with each other. Start pouring the floor from the area opposite to the entrance to the room. Pour three, four cards at a time, and then use a shovel to level the composition over the entire surface.
To ensure good adhesion of concrete to the surface, the use of a manual concrete vibrator is recommended.
After most of the cards are filled, it is necessary to carry out a rough leveling of the surface. For these purposes, you will need a rule, two meters wide, which is stretched across the floor with smooth movements. It is the rule that will help get rid of excess concrete that falls into empty cards. After leveling, the formwork should be removed and the remaining sections filled with mortar.
After leveling the entire floor area, cover the floor with polyethylene film and leave for a month. Please note that after a few days, the surface is constantly wetted with water, in order to avoid drying out of the concrete, the formation of cracks and looseness of the base.
The final stage involves the treatment of the floor with self-leveling mixtures, which equip the screed. It is the mixture that will help to make the base perfectly even and eliminate minor surface irregularities.
Work also begins from the corner opposite the door, it is recommended to use a shovel to apply the mortar, and a rule to level the base.
The floor is defended for 72 hours. Next, the floor is ready for laying floor finishing materials. It is this type of concrete floors on the ground in a private house that will allow you to get a solid and durable foundation.
Concrete floors on the ground video:
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