Do-it-yourself grouting tiles in the bathroom: the secrets of professional builders. How to properly grout the seams on the tile

Hello dear readers!

I dedicate today's post, in my opinion, to an absolutely wonderful activity - grouting tiles! And why are you laughing, this monotonous monotonous work has a relaxing, calming and, I would say, relaxing effect on a person. At least for me.

I agree that for each person it is individual, for example, one of my friends loves to clean small potatoes, it calms her down, but it irritates me terribly! But my husband always entrusted me with such jewelry repair work as grouting tiles.

Women, as a rule, are more pedantic, more corrosive or something, and are capable of for a long time issue equally good result work done. And this is just what you need for high-quality grouting. In addition, women have an almost innate vision of beauty. This quality also plays into the hands in this matter. Why? Then you will understand it.

Any work, and this one is no exception, should be started with positive thoughts in your head and a mindset only for a positive result. But at the same time, do not forget that difficulties can arise at any moment and you need to be ready to cope with them.
So, all work will consist of several stages:

1. Materials and tools for grouting.

1. Brush with soft bristles.
2. Screwdriver or any other object with a sharp and hard end, so that they can clean out the remnants of hardened glue or mortar.
3. Soft sponge or cloth.
4. Rubber spatula.
5. Whisk for stirring or nozzle (for mixing large volumes).
6. Dry mix (grout).
7. Water 5-20 ˚С.
8. Capacity for kneading.

As for the question of which grout to choose, I, for example, use Ceresit grout in my work, because. it is today considered one of the most environmentally friendly building mixtures.

IN required amount water at a temperature of 5-20 ° C, add the required amount of the dry mixture, and stir properly. It is in the water that you add the dry mix, and not vice versa.

When stirring, it is convenient for me to use an ordinary whisk for whipping, it has a shape like that of a mixing nozzle for a blender. Of course, this method is suitable if you knead a small amount of the mixture for working alone.

If the batch is half a bucket, for several people, a room of twenty square meters will have to be overwritten. meters, you won’t get off with a whisk. In this case, it is better to use a special nozzle, we used it to knead the mixture when working on.

After mixing well, breaking all the lumps, leave for 5 minutes. After this time, stir again and proceed. The consistency of the grout should be like that of thick sour cream, it should not flow out of the seams, but it should not roll and crumble from the density.

If this happens, do not waste your nerves and do not spoil your mood, it is better to immediately correct the mixture, add a little water or vice versa dry powder.

It is better to use a round or oval form for diluting the grout, such as a plastic paint bucket. Everything is well mixed in it and dry powder does not clog in the corners, as it could happen in a square container.

If you are doing this for the first time, do not mix all the grout at once. Start with 0.5 kg or even less. At this volume, you will have 30 minutes to practice before the mixture starts to dry.

Right to left or left to right?

From which side you start horizontally, right to left or left to right, it does not matter. But vertically it is better to start from the top. It's just more convenient, tested on own experience, if something drips from the spatula onto the wall, it will not spoil the already finished seam.

In order not to get lost in the entire volume of empty seams that need to be overwritten: visually define blocks for yourself, for example, 4 by 4 tiles and work with them one after another.

4. How to grout the seams on the tiles.

On rubber spatula we take a little grout and carefully begin to apply it to the seams between the tiles with pressing movements.

Periodically remove the excess mixture that has fallen on the tile around the seam, while placing the spatula perpendicular to the seam. Thus, not only the excess is removed, but also leveled. upper layer grout flush with the tile surface.

In principle, the story of how to grout the seams on the tiles could not be continued. When the mixture dries (after 30 minutes), wipe the tile with a wet cloth to remove the dried grout from the tile itself and that's it.

But, in my opinion, everything will look much prettier if the seams between the tiles are designed in the form of a groove. This will give the wall relief, and highlight each tile. This is very simple to do, after you have applied the grout flush with the tile, take a rubber spatula and walk along the seam with its corner, cleaning out the excess mixture.

After this operation, the seams between the tiles look a little sloppy and somewhere even rough. To fix this, I took an ordinary foam rubber sponge, moistened it a little in water and, with a slightly pressing motion, ran it along the seam. This can be seen in the photo. After that, the seam becomes even and smooth.

When the seams are dry, you can take a not very wet sponge or cloth and gently wash the tile itself.

By the way, in the photographs in the article "" the results of my work on grouting joints between tiles.

Now on the market there is a grout of the most different manufacturers, and most importantly different colors. Therefore, it will not be difficult to choose it to match the tone of the tile.

And you can also experiment and make a contrasting option where the tile is white and the grout, for example, is burgundy. Of course, such a solution must be in harmony with overall design rooms and furniture. This is to the issue of the vision of beauty mentioned above.

In any case, I wish you success in your work and an excellent result, which you will be satisfied with!
I hope that the article on how to grout the seams on the tiles was useful to you.

In conclusion, I propose to look small video video "How to grout tiles with your own hands":

Modern bathrooms are most often finished using ceramic tiles, which are the most functional and versatile. Plays an important role correct styling material, including such a stage of this process as grouting tiles in the bathroom. It’s easy to do it with your own hands, but first, let’s consider what are the features of this procedure.

What mixture to choose?

The processing of tile joints in the bathroom is carried out using a special mixture, which differs good level moisture resistance, when dried, it shrinks slightly and at the same time has high strength. If the grout is chosen correctly, then the seams will be sealed with high quality, and the wall covering itself is not only reliable in operation, but also easy to clean. Let's consider what better grout for tile joints in the bathroom.

Cement: simple and cheap

The simplest grout is based on Portland cement, but a number of components are added to its composition. Their task is to make the mass more stable, fluid, while slowing down the setting. Cement grout is suitable for processing joints whose width is not more than 5 mm, for wider joints it is advisable to use a cement-sand grout mixture. In most cases, do-it-yourself grouting of tiles in the bathroom is done using a cement composition. Even an inexperienced finisher will do the job competently.

Modern cement grouts are available as ready-made formulations or dry powder. Ready-made formulations must be used immediately after purchase, but if material remains, you will have to throw it away. In this regard, it is more profitable to use dry powder, since it is possible to calculate a certain amount of material, which is diluted. Cement grouts are in demand due to the convenience and ease of use, versatility, wide color scheme. But users note that they are not resistant to pollution and are destroyed under the influence household chemicals.

Popular brands: Ceresit

Modern types of grouts are distinguished by a wide color variety, which makes it possible to translate into reality a variety of design solutions. Ceresit bathroom tile grout is very popular with buyers. Ceresit CE 33 Super is suitable for processing narrow joints up to 5 mm wide. A distinctive feature of the material is its antifungal effect. The advantages of this composition include:

26 available color solutions;
surface smoothness;
water and frost resistance;
possibility of use in external and internal finishing works Oh;
environmental safety.

Grout for tile joints in the bathroom "Ceresit" is used for processing joints in ceramic, stone cladding, as well as when sealing joints on uneven surfaces inside and outside buildings.

Fuga De Lux

Grouting solutions of this brand are produced in the form of a dry mixture, where mineral binders, fillers, modifying additives are added. This composition is advisable to use when grouting in the bathroom on the floor and walls, which are lined with ceramic or concrete tiles, natural or artificial stone. The width of the seams that can be processed with this material is from 2 to 20 mm. Its peculiarity is the possibility of using it on heated floors.

Epoxy grout: modern and new

Epoxy grout for joints includes a hardener and pigments that give the material specific color. This mass is good in that it makes the seams dense, resistant to moisture and various chemicals especially for household chemicals. A distinctive feature of such compositions is their increased viscosity, which complicates the application process. In general, working with this material is not so easy, so most often they turn to professionals.

Epoxy grout for tile joints in the bathroom is moisture resistant, most often consists of two components - a pigmented resin and a hardener. They mix, the polymerization process begins. It turns out that the seam is filled with a polymer in which there is no cement, which means that it is provided high protection from moisture. Until recently, such materials were used only for industrial purposes and were produced in white and gray colors. And today, colored epoxy grouts are relevant for finishing work, which attract attention:

the possibility of using as an adhesive;
good resistance to mechanical stress;
water and steam impermeability;
pollution resistance;
chemical inertness.

How to work with epoxy grouts?

Epoxy grout for tile joints in the bathroom requires a special approach in terms of installation. The consistency of this material is thick, but the optimum state can be achieved by adding a hardener and thorough mixing. After mixing, it is advisable to transfer the mixture to a clean container. This will make the seam quality. Epoxy grout begins to polymerize immediately after mixing, so you should not wait for setting, as with cement compositions. Once the seams are filled, you can wash off the residue from the surface.

Popular brands: Kerapoxy Design

Kerapoxy Design is a quality two-component grout for bathroom tiles available in eight colours. This composition can be used both indoors and outdoors, but most often it is used in the processing of seams. Distinctive features of the composition are high resistance to acids, ease of use and durability. Using a special additive Mapeglitter, you can give the filler a metallic sheen.

If the material is used correctly, the surface of the seams will be bright and translucent, they will be resistant to chemicals and water, and the seams themselves will be protected from cracking. The material does not require the addition of water. The surface itself must be carefully prepared. Aggregate removal should be done before the mortar sets.

LITOKOL

Epoxy grouts of this brand fill the inter-tile space, while they will perform two functions - protective and decorative. This moisture-resistant grout for tile joints in the bathroom consists of a hardener and a color pigment. The resulting polymer seam is resistant to moisture, resistant to aggressive chemical compounds, and pollution will not form in the pores. After hardening, the seams are of high quality, as well as environmentally safe for human health.

Two-component can be used for facing horizontal and vertical surfaces, and it doesn’t matter what material is used - ceramic or glass mosaic, marble, ceramic or porcelain stoneware tiles, natural stone. Due to the presence of epoxy resin in the composition, the material can be used for finishing not only internal and external surfaces, but also interior elements - countertops in the kitchen or furniture facades.

Thanks to this brand, high-quality and reliable grouting of tiles in the bathroom is obtained. The colors of this composition are presented in a huge variety, and it is possible to choose grouts with optical effects, for example, with sparkles or a transparent structure. Users note that the placeholder will retain its color throughout the entire period of operation.

STARLIKE

Epoxy grouts of this brand allow you to fill the seams when using glass or artistic mosaics, and the seams should be up to 2 mm. TO distinctive features this composition can include:

smooth surface seam, since the filler is a fine fraction;
good light transmittance;
no cracks after the seam dries;
ease of operation;
increased resistance to various influences;
excellent adhesion to any surfaces;
the possibility of using when finishing surfaces, which are subject to increased requirements for hygiene and sanitation.

This composition can be used as a grout for ceramic tiles in the bathroom on the floor and walls. In addition, the composition is used to create exclusive visual effects and such original elements interior, like columns or countertops in the kitchen. Users note that the main advantage of choosing exactly the grouts of this brand is more than 100 color schemes with various effects, which allows you to make the interior even more original.

Advantages of water-repellent compositions

Water-repellent grouts are practical, versatile and easy to work with. Resistance to pollution, preservation of the original appearance throughout the entire period of operation, excellent water-repellent effect even with prolonged contact with water - all this distinguishes these compositions. When choosing, it is worth remembering that the quality of the grout depends on what components are used to create it. Experts advise when using cement grout, be sure to cover the surface of the seam with moisture-resistant impregnation in order to improve the protective properties. It comes with a matte or glossy surface, so the seam between tiles and grout can be decorated very beautifully.

If you are for economy, then choose cement compositions. True, it is important that the dry mix, for example, be of high quality, and this depends on what kind of plasticizer is contained in its composition. If costs do not matter, choose epoxy grouts, however, you will have to invite specialists to work with it. But you provide reliable protection from moisture in the bathroom, and the walls and floor will shine and delight you with their appearance.

The modern market of building and finishing materials pleases with a variety of choices, however, the undoubted leaders in this area have been determined for a long time. Ceramic tiles are one of the best facing materials time-tested. The tiled surface is practical and lasts a long time, and the availability of material is unlimited. color palette allows you to realize the most sophisticated design projects. In addition, the popularity of tiles is also explained by the fact that, in principle, you can tile the walls yourself, and necessary recommendations can be easily found on the global web. For example, we want to offer you the most useful information on how to grout tile joints.

Grout for tile joints - the offer of the modern market

After laying ceramic tiles, the final touch is grouting; without this procedure, finishing the walls and floors with tiles cannot be considered complete. In addition to practical significance, the seam also has decorative feature- complements the overall pattern on the wall or floor. Moreover, manufacturers produce many color additives.

Two types of grouts: based on cement or epoxy resin

Grout on cement base supplied as a dry mix working condition given by dilution with water or liquid latex. Although in retail network you can also find ready-made grouts, but their price is an order of magnitude higher. Cement grout for tile joints in the vast majority of cases is made on the basis of Portland cement, and the special additives that make up the composition are the distinguishing components. All grouts of this type are divided into three groups:

based on industrial Portland cement;
based on dry hardener;
based on a mixture of latex with Portland cement.

Interesting! Portland cement is special kind cement, which got its name because it was very similar in color to building stone, which was mined on the English island of Portland.

Epoxy grout includes epoxy resin and hardener, and gives the seams increased impact resistance and resistance to various chemical influences. Such a grout is characterized by a high cost and, as a rule, is used in the arrangement of premises for industrial or commercial purposes.

In addition, epoxy grout is characterized by excessive viscosity, so only a specialist can successfully work with it. Moreover, there are certain restrictions on its use: the thickness of the tile is from 12 mm, and the minimum joint width is 6 mm. Otherwise, such grout will simply not be able to properly penetrate into narrower seams.

Attention! To avoid serious problems at independent production work carefully read the manufacturer's instructions. This is the only way you can determine which tile grout better fit in your specific situation.

Is it necessary to use sealant?

Grouting tile joints - a video instruction of the process, by the way, is located at the end of this article, it also involves processing joints using a sealant. It will protect the surface of the tile from excessive absorption of moisture, as well as protect it and the seams from stains. If the surface is finished with unglazed tiles, then it is completely covered with liquid sealant. Such a specific substance has acrylic, varnish or silicone in its composition. Therefore, it is necessary to choose it based on the type of tile and grout.

Between tiles distance

By and large, the width grout depends solely on personal preference. Many people prefer narrow seams, which visually seem to suppress the tile. If the surface is made of elements with a size of 10-30 cm, then the most optimal will be a seam of the order of 3 mm. Sometimes, according to this scheme, a 60 cm tile is also laid. If the tile is in operation irregular shape, it is advisable to make a wider seam, but it should not be more than 12 mm.

Attention! The wider the seam, the more likely it is to crack. To seal it, it is necessary to apply a grout with the addition of sand, but this may not always ensure a seam from deformation.

On the other hand, you should not make the grout too narrow, as this will greatly complicate the grouting process, and as a result, they may turn out to be leaky, that is, water will seep under the tile. According to professional tilers, the joints should be wide enough so that they can be filled without problems with any of the selected grouts.

Only in this case, they will become waterproof and will act as a kind of shock absorbers in the process of compression or expansion of the tile. If the seam has a negligibly small width, then it will not have such parameters.

Tools and auxiliary materials

Respirator (working with cement-based grout).
Protective glasses.
Latex gloves.
Roller, rubber spatula or scraper with a rubber nozzle.
Bucket.
Sponge.
Plywood.
Jointing, a wooden stick sharpened at one end or a toothbrush.
A piece of clean cloth.
A small paint brush or paint roller.

Brief plan

The grout is mixed.
The solution is held up to required level water absorption.
The grout is mixed very thoroughly again.
The solution is distributed.
Excess is cleared.

Solution preparation

As a rule, dry grout is mixed with either water or latex liquid additives that replace water.

Note! Dry polymer grouts can only be mixed with water.

When using any type of liquid, it is necessary to add only such an amount that will be sufficient to prepare a plastic and easily spread mixture. This aspect is extremely important, since excess moisture can provoke a weakening of the grout. To do everything right, the solution must be mixed strictly according to the proportions indicated on the grout packaging. The container in which the solution will be mixed must be dry and clean.

When mixing the grout, the dry ingredient is added to the liquid. Moreover, initially about ¾ of the norm of the liquid indicated in the recipe is used. After all dry components are introduced into the solution in small portions, the remaining liquid is added, while not forgetting to control the consistency of the mixture.

Important! The grout preparation process can be influenced by such external factors, How temperature regime in room, relative humidity, and in addition, the component composition, for example, the presence of a dye.

It is recommended to use a trowel or an electric stirrer to mix the solution. If preference is given to the "automation" of this process, then the agitator must be completely immersed in the solution during operation, so that air will not enter it. After all, air bubbles can also weaken the grout solution. It is for this reason that the speed of the blade revolutions should not exceed 300 rpm. At the end of the mixing procedure, the solution must be left alone for 8-10 minutes, and then it can already be safely used for its intended purpose.

Grouting ceramic tiles - direct execution

Grouting ceramic tiles begins with laying the mortar on the surface of the tiles. For proper distribution, it is best to use a special trowel. It is held at an angle of 30 0 relative to the surface of the tile and is applied diagonally. It is necessary to go over the treated area with a grater 2-3 times, and not just covering the distance between the tiles, but trying to rub the solution into the seam with an effort to completely fill it. Naturally, the greater the resistance, the greater the filling density of the seam, and, accordingly, the stronger it will be. The main idea of this work is that all the voids and corners around the tile, remaining after its laying, should be filled as much as possible. When applying the grout, the liquid will leave it, and the seam will be filled with particles of cement and sand. Thus, after hardening in the seam, a solid body will be obtained.

It is not necessary to grout the entire surface at the same time. by the most the best option will be the distribution of the solution on small area, about 1-2 m. In the process of work, it will be found out how quickly the grout sets and whether there is a need for frequent stops associated with cleaning the surface. In some cases, it is possible to wipe 9-10 square meters. m, and then deal with the cleaning of the working area. If the solution sets quickly, then only a small area is overwritten.

What is a grout bag?

If the tiled surface has such a structure that its cleaning process requires considerable effort, for example, imitation of an old brickwork, it is recommended to use a special grout bag. This "tool" visually resembles a pastry bag, with which housewives decorate cakes. A tip is attached to the end of the bag, the diameter of which corresponds to the width of the grout. Then the bag is filled with a solution, which is squeezed out with force directly into the seam.

When using a trowel bag, the tip is placed at the top of the joint and then advanced along as it fills. As a rule, all horizontal seams are filled first, and then vertical ones. In the process of applying the grout, it needs to be squeezed out a little more than it seems at first glance. After some hardening of the solution, it is compacted using jointing or a small piece of a metal smooth tube, the cross-sectional diameter of which is larger than the size of the seam. Then, within 30 minutes, you need to let the grout pressed in the seam seize and then the excess is removed using a stiff brush.

Wet grout removal

When it is visually determined that the grout has hardened sufficiently, the lined surface is wet cleaned. To do this, take an ordinary sponge dipped in ordinary clean water. In a circular motion, excess grout is removed from the tile, while do not forget about the frequent washing of the sponge in water, which must be changed as it gets dirty.

Dry grout removal

The seams need to be aligned and smoothed with a joint, that is, a wooden stick with a sharpened end or the end of a toothbrush handle. Then the edges are trimmed with a sponge. The resulting seam should be even and non-convex, in the vast majority of cases it turns out to be slightly concave. All seams must be the same shape and depth.

We hope our detailed instructions will help you to properly perform self-grouting on the lined ceramic tiles surfaces. If some points require clarification, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the training video clip.

It does not matter whether you decide to lay the tiles yourself or call the master - this knowledge will be useful in any case! Knowing the process in theory, you will be able to apply the information obtained with ease in practice, as well as control employees. After all, it is you who will then have to face possible problems.

Choosing materials - classic cement or modern epoxy?

It used to be that tilers used the same mortar for all operations, but today masters have access to mixtures for each separate stage styling. The grout for tile joints must not only be durable, but also have high decorative qualities, resist moisture, household chemicals and dirt. In order not to get lost in the names, consider the very essence of the grouts. To begin with, we divide them into two groups: cement and epoxy.

Cement grouts consist of especially finely ground cement, fine sand, color, plasticizers and other additives that improve the physico-chemical characteristics of the hardened mixture. Like any cement mixture, such grouts are kneaded on water or on latex, resulting in a very plastic mixture, similar to putty. It should be noted that cement grouts are very easy to work with, which cannot be said about their main competitor - epoxy grouts that require remarkable skill and diligence.

Cement grouts begin to harden 20-30 minutes after application, as evidenced by a decrease in color brightness. At this time, the remains of the grout should be removed from the surface of the tile - a damp foam rubber sponge is best suited for this, you can get by with ordinary rags. After a few more hours, they pass over the surface of the tiles with a damp cloth or mop.

Cement grouts have one significant advantage - low price and availability. However, there are a number of disadvantages - the rough surface of the grout is quickly clogged with dust, due to which the seams become dirty gray, due to exposure to moisture and household chemicals, the solidified mixture begins to crack and crumble, in wide seams even at the stage of grouting appear cracks.

Partially, the problem is solved by water repellents or polyurethane water-repellent varnishes, which should be applied with a thin brush to each seam.

Epoxy mixtures are devoid of all these disadvantages, but still you can’t call them ideal - their price is not at all ideal, and as mentioned above, to work with them you will need great experience. The fact is that the mixture obtained after mixing the components is quite solid, and it requires great effort to apply it, moreover, the grout quickly hardens, creating problems when cleaning the mixture from the tile. Therefore, even experienced craftsmen make very small portions by mixing the hardener with epoxy.

But then you will forget about tile seams forever. After hardening, epoxy compounds acquire a flat, smooth surface that perfectly repels dust and dirt, is absolutely indifferent to the effects of acids and alkalis, and easily tolerates cleaning with a metal brush. decorative properties such compositions are enhanced with the help of all kinds of sparkles, and even glow-in-the-dark components. Please note that you can only remove such grout from the seams with the tile itself.

Grouting - do it yourself

Step 2: Making your own grout

cement grout mixture prepared by adding the dry composition to water. The density of a properly prepared grout is similar to the consistency of sour cream. Mix the composition in small volumes, since even cement grout hardens within 20 minutes. In no case do not try to dilute the hardened solution with water - even if you manage to get a homogeneous mixture, it will crack very quickly after hardening.

Epoxy grout is prepared by mixing two components - the epoxy itself with dyes and fillers and a hardener. At first, you may think that epoxy resin very hard and unyielding - do not worry, everything is correct, a little diligence, and you will be able to mix the components until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To be sure, watch the video on how to handle such a composition.

Step 3: Apply grout to the seams

Do not be afraid to use a wide spatula - take more grout on the spatula and apply it with a wide strip on the seams, counting on capturing 1 square meter. Do not be afraid to use force, as if pressing the grout into the seams - the harder and harder you press, the better mix distributed inside the seams, the smoother they will look. The spatula should be held at an angle of 30° and guided diagonally across the tile. Remove the rest of the mixture with a spatula and use for the remaining areas. It should take you no more than 15 minutes to use one batch for cement grouts and even less time for epoxy grouts.

Step 4: Remove Contaminants

Immediately after applying the solution, you can proceed with your own hands. To do this, use a soft foam sponge, which should be washed frequently and squeezed out well. The sponge should be barely damp so as not to wash out the solution from the seams. The sponge should be guided along the seam, this way you will form the final shape of the line. However, the most the best option is the smoothing of the line with the index or thumb. Please note that the grout should be below the level of the tile, as if in a recess. After all, the tile should be wiped dry with a clean cloth. After achieving perfect purity polishing will help. Grout from the tile is well removed by means such as table vinegar, lemon juice, ammonia, or toothpaste.

Grout update - we carry out restoration work

Cement grouts quickly lose their presentable appearance, but there are no difficulties in updating the seams. The easiest way is to cover the grout with special paint, which is sold in every hardware store. In addition to the paint itself, you will need a thin brush, sandpaper and a vacuum cleaner. Before applying the composition, the seams should be treated sandpaper and remove the resulting dust with a vacuum cleaner. This method allows you to update the color in a matter of hours, however, the effect will be short-lived.

If the seams are deep, and there is at least 2 millimeters to the plane of the tile, a new one is applied over the old layer. To improve the quality of the connection of the layers, the previous one should be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust, as well as increase the roughness with coarse sandpaper. Before applying fresh grout, the joints should be moistened.

The most cardinal option for updating tile joints is complete replacement do-it-yourself grouts. The previous layer should be removed completely. To do this, it is moistened with a special acid cleaner, which is impregnated with the surface of the joints - after some time, the grout will tighten softer, and it can be removed with a joint expander. You will find this tool in every hardware store - it is a curved, durable handle, at the end of which there is a kind of nail file.

When the old compound is removed, vacuum the seams thoroughly and go over with sandpaper again on the remnants that could not be removed after the first time. Then wash the seams with soapy water to neutralize any remaining acid cleaner. After a day, when the seams are completely dry, you can start sealing them - the instructions above will help you with this.

The very first, to ensure the moisture resistance of the entire plane. After all, tiles are laid on the surface in rooms where there is constantly high humidity or water often flows. Therefore, splashes, fumes, etc. And if floor tiles the floors are constantly being washed. Therefore, water will get under the coating of the tiles.

Secondly, there are no tiles that are perfectly square or with right angles, so there will be gaps at the joints anyway.

Third, the tiles cannot be laid "very close" one to one. There is such a thing - temperature increase. Tight laying leads to deformation of the plane and, as a result, "swelling" of the entire "masonry".

What "grout" to apply

First of all, it is necessary to keep in mind the difference between sealant and sealant (grout). For seams, specifically grout is used. There are several types of it, and the difference is in the base: it is either cement (with additives) or epoxy. In everyday life, it is better to use cement-based grouts. They are easier to work with and cheaper.

How to prepare grout

Be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendation. Various composition requires its own know-how. It is better to purchase the composition in dry form, it is much cheaper. Naturally, you need to find out how to dilute: with water or latex (liquid). Dry polymer compositions are mixed only with water!

There should not be a lot of water in the grout, otherwise the quality of the whole work will suffer. Grout is added to water, and not vice versa. The resulting composition must be plastic and very easy to distribute over the plane.

Stages of work:

Grout preparation. In addition to what has already been established, you need to know that the batch must be done carefully, not allowing air bubbles to get inside. It will only weaken the effect of the solution;
Laying out the solution. Using a spatula, the solution is practically pressed into the seam, evenly distributed along the entire length. The hand makes diagonal movements. The task is to fill the inherent vacuums to the maximum. Work more comfortably small plot, and not immediately all over the wall;
Wet cleaning of the plane. It is done after sufficient solidification of the mixture;
Smoothing and smoothing seams. It is made exactly by the manufactured jointing.

With a strong desire to obtain an imitation of obsolete masonry, additional work is carried out.