Insulation of the ceiling in the attic in a wooden house. How to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house: materials and technology for laying insulation. External methods of insulation

In accordance with the laws of physics, air rises when heated, so insulating the ceiling in a house with a cold roof is not a way to get rid of extra money, but a decision dictated by expediency. If you live in a private house, then you have directly encountered the problem of a cold ceiling in the room above which the attic is located. Usually it is not heated, and its own thermal insulation is minimal to ensure normal temperatures during the cold season. As a result, there is a source of constant heat leakage above the living room.

You can insulate the ceiling in a private house from the inside or outside. Both options have their own advantages and disadvantages, the use of which is dictated by rationality, circumstances, technical nuances and other significant characteristics.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside with roll material Source buildfun.ru

Why insulate ceilings in private homes

Laying insulating material that is optimal for a particular building will provide a thermal barrier between the room and the attic. It will prevent the cooling of heated air, its exit through microcracks in concrete or natural pores in a wooden ceiling, raise the overall temperature in the room, protect ceilings and walls from freezing and save a considerable amount that is regularly spent on heating.

Features of ceiling insulation in a wooden house

When working with wooden buildings, the final weight of the insulating layer should be given priority. Excessively high mass increases the likelihood of collapse or cracking in the ceiling.

Some try to insulate the ceiling in a private house with a cold roof with a decrease in the insulation layer, but work standards require a certain value for each region in accordance with temperature and humidity indicators. With a decrease in thickness, the heat-insulating properties decrease, and the meaning of laying the insulation disappears.

Ceiling insulation in a wooden house from the inside Source evejoy.top

List of materials used for insulation

For thermal insulation, installers use materials that are divided into four large groups:

bulk- expanded clay, dry sawdust, ecowool;

rolled- mineral wool and its varieties from other materials;

slab- sheets of compacted mineral wool, expanded polystyrene (polystyrene), cork plates;

sprayed / poured- penoizol.

When choosing insulation for the ceiling in a wooden house, you need to know which one has the best insulating properties. To do this, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors that affect the final result:

external or internal installation;

weather conditions and average annual temperature in a particular area, affecting the thickness of the layer;

the need and list of additional work;

time spent and project budget.

The combination of these features will indicate the rationality of using one or another type of thermal insulation.

In the photo, a bulk version of the ceiling insulation from the outside - expanded clay thermal insulation Source hi.decorexpro.com

External insulation

In most cases, insulating the ceiling in a house from the outside is a more convenient way to prevent heat from escaping. It allows you to expand the list of used insulating materials, reduce the time spent on work and, in comparison with internal installation, reduce the cost of thermal insulation when insulating a house with finishing.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

There are several options for insulating the ceiling from the outside:

The cheapest among all bulk insulator options. Due to the penny cost of the material and minimal additional costs, the total cost of the work is the lowest among those described.

There are certain requirements for sawdust.

A minimum moisture content is required, otherwise mold will begin to form over time. For this, the material is aged in a dry room for about a year before use.

The sawdust is mixed with flame retardants to reduce flammability.

Combining with antiseptics, fungicides and slaked lime will prevent the appearance of fungus and protect against rodents.

Insulation of the ceiling in the house with sawdust is done in two ways. In the first, they are mixed with dry cement, followed by the addition of a small amount of water. Cement acts as a connecting material. The second method involves dry filing of sawdust without adding a connector, but due to the natural shrinkage of the material and the need for regular addition, it is not popular.

Ceiling insulated with sawdust Source ohiogas.info

Expanded clay as a heater

The second most commonly used bulk material for insulation. Among its advantages:

acceptable price;

availability;

thermal insulation properties are above average.

However, the application has a number of limitations:

the own weight of expanded clay does not allow it to be used on thin wooden ceilings; concrete ceilings are desirable.

the material has low moisture resistance, therefore, a vapor barrier is necessarily laid in the first layer.

to ensure high-quality heat preservation, a layer of more than 20 cm thick will be needed (in cold regions of the country it is increased to 50 cm).

Using expanded clay, experts use a mixture of coarse and fine fractions to ensure a high percentage of empty space filling. From above, a layer of material is poured with a cement mortar 5–10 cm thick, which provides protection from moisture and serves as a floor covering.

Ceiling insulation from the outside with expanded clay Source obustroeno.com

Ecowool

Modern insulation for the ceiling of the house, made from recycled cellulose, with the addition of flame retardants for fire resistance and boric acid, which serves as a protection against fungus and harmful microorganisms. The main advantages of the material:

high-quality coverage of the entire floor space, due to the low weight of individual parts, cotton wool is easily blown into all cracks;

the composition does not contain compounds harmful to humans;

low material consumption to ensure reliable thermal insulation.

The disadvantages include:

low resistance to moisture, you will have to spend money on laying a vapor barrier;

hand-made installation without special equipment is impossible or will be of low quality;

ecowool is subject to shrinkage, so it will need to be laid with a margin of about 15%;

if crushed, it loses its thermal insulation qualities, therefore it is necessary to cover the ecowool with a layer of boards to enable movement in the attic.

Advice! Experts do not recommend using the material close to chimneys and other sources of high temperature, despite the addition of flame retardants to the composition. If this is not possible, then it will be necessary to make an additional fence of a fire-resistant coating that reflects heat.

Source ko.decorexpro.com

Mineral wool as a heater

Warming the ceiling in a wooden house with mineral wool has several advantages:

low cost of the material;

high laying speed;

good thermal insulation properties.

Not without cons:

cotton wool shrinkage is 15-20%, so experts advise taking the appropriate stock.

the material is not moisture resistant and quickly absorbs water, which immediately increases its thermal conductivity. You will need to lay an additional layer of waterproofing.

mineral wool cannot be crushed, the impermeability of the thermal barrier depends to a large extent on the air contained between the fibers, so you will have to spend money on laying the outer covering so that you can move freely in the attic.

For insulation with mineral wool, workers must install wooden logs. They will allow you to delimit the space into sectors and will become the basis of the future flooring.

The photo shows the process of thermal insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool Source iobogrev.ru

Penoizol insulation

Depending on the type of installation, penoizol is sprayed or poured. But in order to use this material, you will need to contact a specialized company, since specific equipment is used during the work, plus, protective suits for workers and professional skills are needed.

The advantages include:

high degree of penetration into all cracks and microcracks;

incombustibility;

environmental safety for humans;

not of interest to rodents;

the substance contains a large number of air bubbles, which provide high-quality insulation.

The disadvantages include the high cost and fragility of the material, which does not independently restore its shape in case of mechanical damage.

Video description

Which insulation divides heat better, look at the video:

Advice! When working with penoizol, it is recommended to wait for complete solidification, it has a slight shrinkage, which will have to be replenished in order to prevent the formation of voids.

The process of thermal insulation of the ceiling with foam insulation Source lestorg32.ru

Internal insulation

A residential attic, a house for several owners, the presence of utilities in the attic and other situations that make external insulation impossible require thermal insulation from the inside of the room. Bulk materials are not used for obvious reasons.

Video description

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside, see the video:

Sheet, roll or sprayed materials are used. When choosing insulation for the ceiling in a private house, you should pay attention to polystyrene foam boards or compressed mineral wool. They have the best ratio in the price / quality / speed category. Do not forget about penoizol, which will be an excellent option when increasing the budget.

The process of insulating the ceiling from the inside with foam Source nl.decorexpro.com

Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside with polystyrene boards Source barmanlive.ru

What to choose - external or internal insulation

The choice between these types of work is based on a combination of factors:

in the absence of finishing, they are equal in terms of the degree of thermal insulation;

if the repair of the room is completed, then you will have to remove the ceiling covering, which will increase the cost and time of work;

laying from the inside reduces the shrinkage of the material, but increases the thickness of the ceiling, reducing the total volume of the room;

with internal insulation, the ceiling overlap is not protected from low temperatures;

external insulation allows the use of a wider range of heat insulators.

Before you insulate the ceiling in a private house, you need to carefully calculate all the pros and cons, only after that you can make an unambiguous decision, which is better to use in your case.

Conclusion

When choosing a particular material for ceiling insulation, it is always best to seek professional help. Every business has its pitfalls and stumbling upon them, relying on your own strength, is a waste of time and money. It is better to make repairs once, and get a guaranteed high-quality result - this will save you from unnecessary expenses and provide the house with heat for many years to come.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the private sector is very different from work in apartments. The fact is that in most low-rise buildings, floors are made of wood, and not of concrete, which leaves its mark on the technology of work.

Ways to insulate the ceiling

Consider 5 options for thermal insulation. Each of them differs in the materials used. In addition, work can be carried out both from the side of the attic and indoors.

As experience shows, the first option is much more convenient and simpler, so we recommend, if possible, to insulate the ceiling from the outside.

Option 1: sawdust

A traditional solution that has been used for more than one century and has several advantages:

The lowest price among all options;
Ease of work;
High speed workflow.

Of the minuses, it should be noted the low thermal insulation properties of sawdust, which is why they must be laid in a thick layer, and the combustibility of the material, which reduces the fire safety of a house or bath.

Let's figure out what you need to work:

Dry sawdust. They should be free of sand and foreign matter. It is not difficult to calculate the required volume - with a layer of 20 cm, a cubic meter is enough for 5 square meters. m. Accordingly, if the layer is different, then the amount will change;

glassine. Since we are considering the most budgetary option for carrying out work, we will also use the cheapest vapor-permeable waterproofing material. Glassine is sold in rolls of 20 squares, its quantity is calculated based on the area of the insulated attic;

Cement. It is used to increase the fire safety of the insulation and to give the layer density. Its consumption is small - 4 kilograms per 20 buckets of sawdust;

Water should also be on hand when preparing the composition.. For 20 buckets of sawdust, on average, 3 buckets of water are used.

The work instructions look like this:

Illustration	Stage description
	The surface is being prepared. First of all, you need to remove everything unnecessary from the attic. Then, with a broom, small debris is removed so that it does not damage the vapor barrier during installation.
	Preparing the mixture: 20 buckets of sawdust or more are poured into a large container or onto a film - in a multiple ratio; Cement is added at the rate of 4 kg per 20 buckets of sawdust. The dry mix mixes well; 3 buckets of water are poured out, which is best evenly distributed over the surface. Perfect for a garden watering can. The mass is thoroughly mixed again. Advice! Checking the quality of the composition is simple: squeeze it in a fist. When you open your hand, the sawdust should not immediately fall apart.
	The surface is covered with glassine. The material is not very durable, so care must be taken when working so as not to damage it. Advice! The easiest way to fix it is with a stapler - it's very fast and reliable.
	The surface is insulated. To do this, you just need to fill up the sawdust and distribute them in an even layer of 20 cm. It’s not worth trampling and ramming them hard - it’s better to make a structure from a wide board, which is convenient to slam the heat-insulating layer.
	A board or moisture-resistant plywood is laid on top of the sawdust. This protects the thermal insulation layer from damage and moisture changes. Advice! In order for the sawdust to dry and harden quickly, work is best done in the warm season.

Option 2: expanded clay thermal insulation

Another budget material, which at one time was one of the most popular solutions (read more).

The main advantages are:

This is a completely eco-friendly material, which is fired clay balls. It does not emit any harmful substances and does not adversely affect human health;

A cubic meter of this material weighs about 400 kilograms. At the same time, the granules are very durable and resist deformation many times better than sawdust;
Durability. Expanded clay retains its properties for decades. It is not damaged by rodents, and over time, thermal insulation characteristics do not decrease;
High moisture absorption characteristics. Granules absorb moisture well, and subsequently it evaporates from the material. In attics insulated with expanded clay, it is always dry, which has a positive effect on the durability of wooden structures.

Of the minuses, the following can be distinguished:

thermal insulation performance is still lower than that of modern heaters;
when laying, fine dust is formed, so it is advisable to work in a respirator.

Insulation of a wooden ceiling with expanded clay is done as follows:

Illustration	Stage description
	The base is vapor-insulated. For these purposes, you can use both cheap glassine and a more expensive option - a special membrane. It is much stronger and retains its characteristics longer. As for fastening, it is the same for all materials - after laying, it is fixed with a construction stapler.
	The surface is insulated with expanded clay. It is distributed with a layer of at least 20 cm and carefully leveled over the entire area. The material of fine and medium fraction is best suited.
	The surface is closed. For these purposes, you can use different materials: moisture resistant plywood; OSB plate; Cutting board. You can also lay a vapor barrier on top of expanded clay. This will protect it from moisture absorption. This step is recommended but not required.

Option 3: insulation with foam or extruded polystyrene foam

Although these two materials have different structure and characteristics, the installation process is almost the same, so we will analyze them together. Comparing the options, it can only be noted that the foam is much cheaper, but the extruded elements have greater strength and retain heat better.

As for the main advantages, they are as follows:

Lightweight heater. A cubic meter of foam plastic weighs on average from 25 to 50 kilograms - extruded plates are not much heavier. We can say that this is the lightest type of thermal insulation. Thanks to this aspect, the minimum load on the ceiling partition is ensured. And the work itself is much easier - the sheets are easy to carry and stack even without outside help;

High thermal insulation performance. Styrofoam, and even more so extruded polystyrene foam, is much better than expanded clay and sawdust in terms of its heat-retaining properties. Therefore, it is possible to lay a thinner layer, and at the same time provide the same effect;

Ease of installation. The material is very easy to cut with an ordinary construction knife, which simplifies its adjustment to the openings between the beams. And if you use Penoplex, then the work is simplified even more: there are special grooves on the ends of the sheets, thanks to which the elements are joined very tightly, and you do not need to additionally fill them with mounting foam;

Durability. Since the insulation in the attic is protected from sunlight and precipitation, its service life is estimated for decades. And if the foam can be damaged if you walk on it, then Penoplex will withstand such loads without damage;

Large selection of options. You can find sheets of almost any thickness. This allows you to lay the insulation in one layer, which reduces the time spent on insulation.

This type of materials also has disadvantages - there are two of them:

They don't let air through. Because of this, condensation can form on wooden surfaces. The problem is partially solved by laying a vapor barrier material so that the wood and the foam do not touch;
There are always gaps at the joints. You can not just lay the sheets and achieve the optimal effect. You will need to seal any gaps with foam to prevent heat from escaping through these areas.

These thermal insulation materials for the ceiling are laid as follows:

Illustration	Stage description
	The base is vapor-insulated. First, the surface is cleaned of debris, after which a waterproofing vapor-permeable material is covered. It is located tightly, but without stretch, and is fixed with a stapler. At the joints, laps of 100 mm are made (there is a dotted line on the material for reference), for the reliability of the connection they are glued with adhesive tape.
	Styrofoam is laid. Of course, ideally, the distance between the beams should be such that a whole sheet fits there (the standard width of the elements is 50-60 cm). Note! If the step of the beams is greater, then pieces are cut off and fit into the gaps. Try to arrange them as tightly as possible so that there are no large gaps. But even if there are gaps, it’s not scary - then they are sealed.
	All joints are sealed with foam. The amount of work depends on the quality of the foam laying - the better you joined the sheets, the less foam will go. Advice! It is better to apply foam from a special gun. So it turns out much more accurately, and the consumption will be lower at times.
	If you need to move around the attic, it is advisable to close the insulation with a deck. To do this, you can use a board or sheet materials. Moreover, the flooring can be both continuous and at intervals in order to save material.

Option 4: mineral wool insulation

This is the best option to date, providing the best quality of insulation (read more).

Minvata has a number of advantages:

High thermal insulation performance. This is a very effective solution that provides the best heat retention in your home;
Moisture and vapor permeability. The material passes evaporation, so it is great for wooden structures. Moisture will not linger on the surfaces, which will ensure their long service life;
Variety of options. On sale you can find both sheet and roll materials of different widths and lengths. In addition, the thickness can also vary, which allows you to choose the best solution for any climate zone;

The elasticity of mineral wool allows you to fill all the voids very tightly and lay the heat-insulating layer without gaps. There is no need to close up all the flaws with mounting foam. In addition, even if you step on the surface and take mineral wool, it will take on its original appearance;

Safety. Heaters are made of basalt breeds which melt under the influence of high temperatures. Due to this, the material does not harm human health and the environment. In addition, mineral wool does not support combustion and mice do not start in it.

Insulation of wooden ceilings is carried out as follows:

Illustration	Stage description
	The attic floor is released. Everything is standard here: you should take out everything superfluous and remove the garbage, if any.
	Vapor barrier material is laid. When doing the work with your own hands, pay special attention to the accuracy of the installation. All joints are glued with a special tape, there should be no gaps on the surface. Also close the junction of the slope and the attic partition, it is shown in the photo to prevent moisture from entering through this part of the structure.
	Thermal insulation for the ceiling is laid. Everything is simple, you just need to follow a couple of recommendations: When cutting elements, always make them wider by 10-20 mm than the distance between the beams. This will ensure their tight placement in the structure; When laying mineral wool in two layers, arrange the sheets so that the joints between them do not coincide, make an offset of half the element.
	Another layer of vapor barrier is placed on top of the mineral wool. It protects the material from moisture drops and extends its service life. There should be a gap of 50 mm between the insulation and the membrane. If your mineral wool is flush with the beams, then it is worth stuffing a counter-lattice from a 50x50 mm bar on top.

Option 5: foam insulation

This material is significantly different from all the others. Firstly, it has a small thickness and a reflective layer, and secondly, it must be fixed not from the side of the attic, but from the inside, which is very useful in some situations.

The main advantages of penofol are:

Small thickness. The most commonly used option is 5 mm thick, which, in terms of its thermal insulation performance, is close to 50 mm thick foam;

Flexibility. This is also an important factor, since a perfectly even base is not needed and you can even bypass the beams if they protrude above the ceiling surface;

Reflective ability. The outer layer is made of aluminum foil, which has the property of reflecting heat;
Durability. Foamed polyethylene, which penofol consists of, does not lose its properties for decades. He is not afraid of moisture, which is also important.

Let's figure out how to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house:

Illustration	Stage description
	The material is attached to the ceiling with a stapler. The desired piece is cut off, after which one person holds it, and the second one nails penofol with staples every 30-40 cm. By attaching, the material cannot be stretched, it must be located freely. The strips are arranged end to end, one canvas should not overlap the other.
	The joints are glued with a special tape. This is necessary so that there are no gaps on the reflective surface through which heat will escape. Foil tape is available at hardware stores.
	In order for the material to reflect heat as efficiently as possible, a gap of at least 20 mm must be left between it and the exterior finish. That is why a bar is nailed over the penofol, which also serves as an additional fastener.
	The outer trim is attached to the bar. There may be different options - from wooden or plastic lining to drywall, plywood and other sheet materials.

Conclusion

Now you know how the ceiling is insulated in five ways. You need to choose one of them, and carry out work according to the recommendations from the corresponding section. Finally, we recommend watching a video that clearly shows some of the aspects discussed in our review.

Houses built of wood are initially warm. The tree has low thermal conductivity, so in the insulated wooden house heat is retained even in the most severe frosts. Doors, windows, walls, floors, roofs and ceilings need insulation. Especially ceilings, because according to the laws of physics, warm air rises and exits through an uninsulated roof. It is estimated that up to 45% of heat is lost in this way, so the insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house is a top priority.

Thermal insulation of ceilings

The overlap of a wooden house consists of logs, beams or bars, installed at the same distance. Boards are nailed to them on both sides, between which a space is formed, filled with heat-insulating materials.

The insulated attic is suitable for habitation and is an additional protection against heat loss in the house

Popular ceiling heaters

To protect a private house from the cold, different types of materials are used:

expanded clay;
mineral wool;
ecowool;
sawdust;
Styrofoam.

Each of them has a huge number of advantages, but there are also disadvantages that must be taken into account when planning work. Each of the materials has its own laying technology. The most common ceiling insulation materials are expanded clay and sawdust. These are bulk materials used to protect against the penetration of cold air from the attic or attic.

Features of creating thermal insulation

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house is one of the most difficult measures for the thermal insulation of a house. Several important points must be taken into account:

the structure being created should not be heavy, as it exerts an additional load on the roofing elements;
it is necessary to take into account the existing restrictions on the thickness of the insulation;
the outer side of the insulation must have waterproofing protection;
work on the thermal insulation of the ceiling is associated with inconvenience.

On a note! If a residential attic is located under the roof, its ceiling is insulated, if it is an attic, then the attic floor is insulated inside or outside, but it is better to insulate both.

External insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay is a porous material in the form of crushed stone or gravel, obtained by firing fusible clay rocks that swell at a temperature of 1050 - 1300 degrees. Quality is determined by grain size, strength and bulk density.

There should be a gap of 2 centimeters between the flooring and the expanded clay pillow

Features and benefits of expanded clay

Expanded clay is an inexpensive material, for the manufacture of which available raw materials and simple equipment are used. A cubic meter of placer M200 - 450 with delivery costs from 980 rubles. The technology of thermal insulation with its application is not difficult and does not require professional knowledge. In order for the ceiling insulation to be effective, the expanded clay embankment must be at least 10 cm thick. The thicker it is, the better.
Advantages:

excellent thermal insulation characteristics;
high degree of sound insulation;
light weight;
strength;
fire resistance;
environmental friendliness;
decay resistance;
resistance to aggressive chemical environment.

The technology of using expanded clay as a heater

Warming is carried out from the side of the attic. Before backfilling the grains, steam and waterproofing is laid. Builders often use roofing material for these purposes, but this is not the best option in terms of environmental friendliness. The roofing material contains tar, which emits harmful substances, especially in summer, when the roof is very hot. For vapor and waterproofing, the best option would be the modern inexpensive Izospan material of the C or B series. To achieve maximum savings, aluminum foil or ordinary plastic film is suitable.

Consider how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with expanded clay, in what sequence and in what quantity it is laid.

Take measurements of the length and width of the gaps between the beams. Roll out a roll of plastic film and cut it into strips, the length and width of which will be 10 cm more than the distance between the beams.
Lay waterproofing with an overlap of 20 cm on the walls and edges of the beams. To ensure a high-quality protective layer, the seams are glued with a special tape.
Glue the joints of the roofing material with rubber-bitumen mastic. When using aluminum foil, foil-based tape is used.
In the same way, insulate the chimney pipes and rafters.
Secure the canvas with a construction stapler and masking tape.
Lay mashed clay on the vapor barrier.
Mix large and small fractions of expanded clay and pour between the beams.
To protect the heat-insulating package from damage, a cement-sand screed is arranged over the expanded clay. In the attic, plank flooring is installed on the beams or other methods of arranging the floor are used.

Inexpensive insulation with sawdust

The cheapest insulation for the ceiling is environmentally friendly sawdust. They must be of medium fraction, dry, aged for at least a year, not infected with a fungus.

The method of using sawdust is old and proven, which does not require serious financial investments and labor costs.

Insulation mortar with sawdust

To prepare the solution, take:

10 buckets of sawdust;
1 bucket of cement;
0.5 buckets of slaked lime
antiseptic (borax, blue vitriol);
water.

The dry components of the solution are thoroughly mixed, an antiseptic is added to the water, after which the water and the dry mixture are thoroughly mixed. To determine the readiness of the mixture, it is taken in hand and squeezed. If the solution is ready, no moisture should be released during compression; when the hand is unclenched, the lump in the finished solution does not crumble.

Mortar laying sequence

Steam and waterproofing is laid. This is done in the same way as when using expanded clay.
The cement-sawdust mixture is evenly distributed over the surface.
The solution is compacted to a thickness of 25-30 cm.

The insulating flooring acquires the necessary properties in two weeks. When walking on it, a crunch is heard, but the base does not bend.

Important! The device of thermal insulation using sawdust is recommended to be carried out in warm weather. When dried quickly, they form a durable heat-insulating layer.

Mineral wool for home insulation

Mineral wool is available in slabs and rolls of standard thicknesses and sizes.

Mineral wool is a heat insulator traditionally used in construction. It is characterized by low thermal conductivity, non-toxic, lightweight and easy to install. In the building materials market, mineral wool is presented in a wide range. Stone (basalt) wool is considered the highest quality and most effective. Thermal insulation of the ceiling with its use will cost more.

The use of mineral wool is a reliable and relatively inexpensive method that does not require special expensive tools. The distance between the vapor barrier film and the mineral wool layer is 50 mm

Mineral wool laying scheme

When working with mineral wool, safety rules must be observed. Small particles of fibers that separate from the plates get on the skin and lungs, which is unsafe for humans. Protective clothing, a respirator and gloves will help protect against them.
The sequence of thermal insulation with mineral wool:

steam and waterproofing is laid on the surface cleaned of dust and dirt (glassine is most often used for this);
places of overlapping of waterproofing strips are glued;
the edges are wrapped on beams, fixed with a stapler and fixed with adhesive tape;
basalt insulation fits tightly on glassine so that there are no gaps between it and the beams;
for greater efficiency, another layer is laid on the first layer, overlapping the beams and floor slots;
the remaining gaps are blown out with mounting foam;
a second layer of vapor barrier is laid on the mineral wool, a screed is made on it;
boards, chipboard or plywood are laid over the screed.

Thermal insulation of the house from the inside with mineral wool is carried out by laying the material between the rafters

Thermal insulation using ecowool

Ecowool - crushed cellulose with antiseptic and refractory additives. It is considered one of the best natural insulation for a wooden house. To maximize the effect, the ecowool layer must be at least 150 mm thick. When laying, it must be fluffed and lightly tamped to avoid shrinkage.

Ecowool absorbs moisture, so when using it in a vapor barrier film, there is no need. It is laid on wooden floors using a special blowing machine. The insulating layer turns out to be monolithic and saturated with air, the cracks are carefully blown out.

When working with ecowool, protective clothing is required that protects against skin and respiratory tract spray particles.

Thermal insulation using foam

Styrofoam is a heat-insulating material obtained by foaming polymers under the influence of high temperatures while simultaneously filling them with natural gas. If you cannot decide how to insulate the ceiling from the inside, choose foam. Here he has no equal.

Positive characteristics of foam

light in weight;
simple and easy to install;
easy to cut and fasten;
has low thermal conductivity;
moisture resistant;
with excellent soundproofing properties;
not subject to decay and decomposition;
affordable.

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house with foam plastic from the attic is carried out in the same way as with basalt wool.

How to insulate the ceiling from the inside with foam

Insulating from the inside is more difficult than from the outside. In the attic, the material is laid between the rafters and sewn up. In a residential area, it is attached to the bottom of the rafters above the head. The complexity of the work is that it is performed on outstretched arms.
The ceiling is insulated from the inside in the following sequence:

Slots are carefully blown with mounting foam or caulked.
If necessary, the frame is mounted.
A vapor barrier is fixed with a construction stapler.
Styrofoam sheets are glued to the vapor barrier.
Another vapor barrier layer is laid on the foam.
Then the finishing is performed - filing with boards.

Note! The best option is to insulate the ceiling in the house from the inside and outside.

Styrofoam insulation tips

the insulation should be laid as tightly as possible, since due to the cracks formed between the plates, cold bridges are formed that will nullify all efforts;
for internal insulation with foam, one layer 5 cm thick is sufficient;
if the insulation of a wooden ceiling in a private house is carried out outside, then the foam can be laid in several layers;
a heated attic will require a ventilation gap, without which condensation forms, the room becomes damp and mold appears in it.

Important! Insulation from the inside cannot be carried out after the repair is completed. It is carried out at the stage of construction and repair work.

Video: attic insulation along the lags

How else to insulate the ceiling from the inside? In addition to foam plastic, plastic panels, drywall, rack and other types of suspended structures mounted on a frame are used for these purposes. When choosing a material, they are guided by such criteria as thermal conductivity, flammability, environmental friendliness, price, etc. Self-insulation of a private house without knowledge of elementary rules may be ineffective. In this case, the right decision would be to invite specialists.

According to builders, 30 to 45% of heat is lost through the ceiling. The conclusion suggests itself: if you want a warm house, insulate the ceiling.

How to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house in order to create comfortable conditions without extra costs and with a minimum of effort? In this article, we will talk about the best materials for insulation and present the most economical technologies.

Insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold attic can be done according to two schemes: from inside the living space and from the outside, by insulating the floor of the attic. When insulating from the inside, the height of the room will decrease by 10-15 cm, depending on the thermal conductivity of the insulation and the type of filing. You don’t always want to lose such a height, and it’s much easier to perform insulation from the attic floor.

In the event that a warm attic is provided in a wooden building, it will be necessary to insulate only from the inside, the roofing.

Now that you have decided on the insulation scheme, we turn to the choice of insulation.

Choosing a heater

Among the many proposals on the construction market in the segment of heaters, eyes widen. Comparing materials, we are guided by the characteristics:

Ceiling insulation materials can be of different types:

Plates, mats.
Bulk.
Monolithic installation.
Liquid.

Plates and mats are suitable for both external and internal insulation, the rest of the listed can only be used for external insulation.

From slab heaters, polystyrene foam, foam plastic, mineral wool and basalt materials are most often used for insulation. They are distinguished by efficiency, low volumetric weight, durability and economy. Among the plates there are materials of both an economy class (expanded polystyrene) and a higher price (penoplex, miniplate).

Expanded clay, vermiculite, slag are used as a bulk heat insulator, these materials do not burn, are not damaged by insects and rodents, low cost. The disadvantages include low efficiency and high weight, because of this, the insulation layer can reach 500 mm, and therefore it will be necessary to calculate the bearing capacity of the floor beams.

The same can be said about lightweight cast-in-situ concrete - low efficiency, high weight, but low price, besides, special equipment is required for laying. Among the materials of this group, we can mention the proven method of insulation with a mixture of sawdust and cement milk, which is distinguished by its ease of implementation and affordable price.

Liquid heaters, which include, for example, polyurethane foam, also require special equipment for installation, with excellent characteristics, they have a high price. They differ in speed of execution, but it is impossible to recommend these materials for self-laying.

Having chosen the best way to insulate the ceiling, we move on to the next topic: how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden house.

We carry out warming

Before starting work on any of the insulation schemes, it is necessary to impregnate the supporting beams with a flame retardant to increase fire resistance, a fungicide to protect against fungus and an antiseptic that protects against decay, or a complex preparation that performs three tasks at the same time. All structural elements made of wood, which will be involved in the insulation of the ceiling, are subject to processing.

Warming from inside the room

In this case, we insulate the ceiling with slabs or mats. Materials required for work:

Insulation.
Vapor barrier.
superdiffusion membrane.
Timber beam, section 50x100 mm.
Timber beam, section 40x40 mm.
Moisture resistant boards OSB or chipboard.
Ceiling material.

The sequence of work depends on the existing ceiling structure: if the existing ceiling is not planned to be dismantled, then a superdiffusion membrane is attached to it with a stapler. Further:

On a beam with a section of 50x100 mm, cranial bars with a section of 40x40 mm are stuffed in order to obtain a tee beam.
The resulting T-beams are fixed close to the ceiling to the walls with a distance between them equal to the width of the insulation plate minus 5 mm.
Insulation plates are put into the resulting frame.
A vapor barrier is attached from below with a stapler.
The structure is sewn up from below with drywall, OSB, chipboard or clapboard, in accordance with the interior of the room.
In the attic, moisture-resistant OSB, chipboard, or boards are used to make running flooring for periodic inspection of the health of the roofing.

The main disadvantage of this scheme is the reduction in the height of the room by a height of 15 - 200 mm, depending on the required thickness of the insulation.

Attic insulation from above

This insulation scheme is used in new construction or with free access to the attic in existing buildings.

In this case, both slabs and mats and bulk materials can be used. Materials required for insulation:

insulation;
Vapor barrier;
Super diffusion membrane;
A bar made of wood, with a section of 40x40 mm;
Slab or boards for the subfloor;
Moisture resistant boards OSB or chipboard;
Ceiling material.

The overlay scheme looks like this:

Work sequence:

Floor beams (logs) with the help of cranial bars are brought to a tee section;
We lay the draft floor between the beams;
We lay the vapor barrier freely, with entry to the wall;
We mount insulation - plates, rolls, mats or bulk;
A superdiffusion membrane is laid on top;
We mount attic running flooring - boards or moisture-resistant chipboard, OSB.

If, according to the calculation, the thickness of the insulation is required to be greater than the height of the log, it is necessary to increase the beams to the desired height before starting work.

Ceiling insulated with expanded clay.

IMPORTANT: the vapor barrier and the superdiffusion membrane must be installed on the wall, forming a closed loop with the vapor barrier of the walls inside the room and the vapor barrier of the roof.

As a vapor barrier, it is possible to use bitumen-polymer roofing material, but polyethylene film is not recommended due to low quality and short service life.

Insulation with sawdust

According to the above scheme, you can perform insulation with sawdust or wood shavings. This is the most economical way to insulate the ceiling, although it is inferior in terms of heat-insulating qualities and durability to insulation with mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. Materials required:

Medium sawdust or shavings.
Vapor barrier.
Cement.
Cranial bars with a section of 40x40 mm.
Boards or slabs on the subfloor.

Sawdust must have the following quality:

Humidity is not more than 15%.
Age at least 1 year.
Visible absence of mold and mildew.
The average size.

Dilute the cement with water 1 to 10, you should get liquid cement milk. A mixture of cement and sawdust is prepared in the proportion of 1.5 buckets of milk per 10 buckets of sawdust. The mixture is poured onto the vapor barrier layer and left to dry. The dried layer is covered with a second layer of vapor barrier, then the flooring is arranged.

Summary

Do-it-yourself floor insulation is a simple job, but it will allow the homeowner to keep the house warm and reduce heating and electricity costs. The cost of insulation will pay off with home comfort. Subject to technology, safety precautions and the recommendations of material manufacturers, the work will be a pleasure, and you will be proud to tell your neighbor how to insulate a wooden ceiling.

Warming a wooden house is a very responsible task, because the quality of its implementation depends on the atmosphere in which the residents will be for many years. Partially, this issue is resolved even at the stage of assembling the log house, when the slots and expansion grooves are filled with tow or mounting foam, the rest is usually done after the house shrinks.

Many people prefer to entrust the insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house to contractors. Of course, experienced builders know how and what preliminary calculations to make, what materials to use and how to choose the optimal thickness of the insulation. If you intend to insulate the ceiling with your own hands, first study the specialized literature on this topic or consult with professionals.

With the wrong choice of materials or a violation of the insulation technology, thermal insulation may be insufficient (then it will be cold at home) or, conversely, excessive (when the insulation gets wet from accumulated condensate, and subsequently becomes moldy or fungal). In this article, we will tell you how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden house so that the rooms are warm and condensation does not accumulate on the thermal insulation layer.

The most common building insulation materials

The materials used to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house are usually characterized by lightness and low thermal conductivity. Moreover, they are the least susceptible to the accumulation of condensate. There are few such materials, here are the most common:

Sawdust. The most environmentally friendly, affordable and cheap type of insulation. It is not inferior to factory materials in terms of thermal insulation properties, but at the same time it is several times cheaper. The disadvantages of ceiling insulation with sawdust include their increased susceptibility to moisture, flammability (in its pure form), attractiveness to rodents, as well as significant time costs for preparing the mixture, laying it and drying it.
Styrofoam. Very light hygroscopic material that does not shrink. It has excellent heat and sound insulation properties, is not subject to rotting and fungus, is easily cut and attached to surfaces. Of the minuses: toxic (in case of fire), contributes to the formation of high humidity in the room, has a service life of no more than 10–20 years.
Mineral wool. It is characterized by a high level of heat and noise insulation, resistant to rodents and aggressive environments. It is not flammable and can even slow down the spread of a fire. Disadvantages: high weight, reduced efficiency when wet, the need to use personal protective equipment when working with this material (overalls, masks, gloves).
Penofol. An eco-friendly multifunctional insulation that easily fits on any surface, is freely attached and does not ignite in case of fire. The main disadvantage of this material is its softness: it is strongly deformed even with light pressure.

When deciding what is better to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house (with sawdust, polystyrene foam, mineral wool or penofol), proceed from the available funds and opportunities. Strictly adhere to the chosen technology. We will talk about the methods of warming further.

Ceiling insulation with sawdust

When you don’t know how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house from the outside (from the attic side), and you don’t have extra money to buy expensive materials, choose sawdust. This is a universal insulation that does not require special skills and additional funds.

However, you need to know how to choose sawdust for insulation, so that the thermal insulation is of high quality. Firstly, sawdust must be dry, without foreign debris and signs of rot. Secondly, when choosing sawdust for ceiling insulation, it is better to give preference to the middle fraction, since it is difficult to work with fine-grained sawdust, and large ones do not provide the necessary thermal insulation.

Builders offer two ways of insulation with sawdust.

Method 1

The insulated surface is lined with a film, which not only prevents the smallest particles from "leaking" through the cracks, but also serves as a vapor barrier material. After that, the entire area is evenly covered with a layer of dry sawdust 15–20 centimeters high. Next, you just have to cover the sawdust with flooring from the boards.

In no case do not use raw or insufficiently dried sawdust: they do not provide proper thermal insulation and are prone to rotting.

Method 2

The insulated surface is covered with a waterproofing film. If you don’t want to spend money on a film, it’s enough to smear all the cracks with clay and pour a little sand over the floor - in the future it will fill the cracks formed in the clay.

After that, a mixture of cement, sawdust and water is prepared in a large container in a ratio of 2:10:1.5, and water is added only at the very end. Everything is thoroughly mixed until the sawdust gets wet properly - this ensures better adhesion of the sawdust to the cement.

The finished mass is laid out in an even layer 15–20 centimeters thick and left to dry.

To increase the fire safety of such a heater and make it less attractive to rats and mice, the addition of lime or gypsum to the composition will help.

Ceiling insulation with foam

When the question arises of how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house from the inside, but at the same time limit yourself to the minimum cost of money and effort, foam comes to the rescue. Being cheap, light and easy to install, it is great for do-it-yourself ceiling insulation. The only thing to consider when working is the elimination of gaps between the foam plates. The presence of cracks will not allow the insulation to fully perform the thermal insulation function.

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house with foam plastic begins with a vapor barrier. To do this, the overlap is lined with a special film or parchment. You can do without a vapor barrier, but in this case, all the seams between the foam boards must be foamed or glued with adhesive tape.

Then a crate is made: the thickness of the log must match the thickness of the selected foam. It is recommended to place the bars at a distance of about 40 centimeters from each other, but in practice it is worth relying on the dimensions of the purchased foam so that there are fewer scraps.

Finally, the foam layer is covered with plywood 15-16 millimeters thick.

Attention: if, when insulating the ceiling with foam plastic with your own hands, gaps nevertheless formed between the plates, do not spare the mounting foam for their thorough sealing.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

If you are ready to try to insulate the ceiling with mineral wool yourself, get ready for some difficulties. Mineral wool is much cheaper than polystyrene, but it is more difficult to work with. Handling mineral wool requires special care. Firstly, when crushed, this material loses its thermal insulation properties. Secondly, contact of mineral wool fibers with the skin should be avoided.

On both sides, a layer of mineral wool must be covered with vapor barrier parchment or film. Nail the vapor barrier with thick strips (about 3 cm) to allow condensation to drain and evaporate. If nails stick out of the beams or ceiling, they need to be bent with a hammer so that the sharp ends do not damage the insulation.

The crate for laying mineral wool must be adjusted to the dimensions of the material: the distance between the beams and their thickness must ensure tight laying of the heat-insulating layer or mat. When insulating with rolled mineral wool, it is recommended to lay the insulation slightly overlapping so that there are no gaps. When the material is laid correctly, it holds well even without additional fasteners, however, in order to avoid trouble, it is recommended to fasten it with special mushroom dowels.

At the end, the frame is sewn up with plywood or other material. You can install a suspended ceiling.

Ceiling insulation with penofol

Penofol is a fairly new type of insulation, which is a combined material of polyethylene foam and a foil coating. The complex structure of penofol allows it to prevent three types of heat transfer at once: convection, direct heat transfer and radiation.

Penofol is considered to be light, easy to use and fairly inexpensive material for warming a wooden house. Even a person who is far from construction can independently insulate the ceiling with penofol.

Penofol is unilateral and bilateral. Depending on this, an air gap must be provided on one or both sides at once. In the case of one-sided ponofol, the insulation can be attached directly to the ceiling (to boards or plywood). When working with double-sided, a strong crate is required.

Penofol is fixed with ordinary nails or a screwdriver, but large-diameter washers are put on the fasteners so that the material does not tear with a hat. Penofol is attached to concrete floors with glue. There is no need to make overlaps, but all joints must be glued with aluminum adhesive tape.