What is the name of the insulation for the walls of the house outside. External insulation of the walls of a private house. Bonded thermal insulation with polystyrene boards

September 3, 2016
Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

It is no secret that the external insulation of the walls of a house or apartment is more effective than internal thermal insulation. By installing materials with low thermal conductivity on the outside, we not only reduce the heat loss of the building, but also normalize the humidity regime, providing natural ventilation of the room and preventing the formation of condensate inside the house.

There are many technologies for insulating finishes, among them there are quite simple ones that are affordable for do-it-yourself implementation. In any case, I managed to cope with such work on my own, without the involvement of third-party specialists. I will describe successful examples of the implementation of insulation in the article below.

Two insulation options

Reducing the thermal conductivity of the wall fencing is one of the ways to reduce the heat loss of the building as a whole. And we are talking not only about improving the microclimate by raising the temperature in a house or apartment.

From my own experience, I know that even a thin layer of insulation on the walls can significantly save on space heating. In private houses, this savings will be more noticeable due to a reduction in the consumption of heat carriers, but in an apartment with central heating, we will feel the financial effect - at least due to the fact that in the cold season we do not have to spend money on additional heating, and in the summer heat - for air conditioning.

Today, specialists practice different types of thermal insulation work, the main difference between which is:

• in the method of installation of heat-insulating material;
• in the insulation that is used.

And if there are quite a lot of materials on the market, I performed the insulation of the outer walls with foam plastic, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, ecowool, etc. - then there are only two installation methods that are fundamentally different from each other. Conventionally, they are called wet and dry - according to the method of finishing:

Methodology	Peculiarities
Wet	Thermal insulation panels made of synthetic material or mineral fiber are glued to the prepared base and additionally fixed using mechanical fasteners. After that, the surface is plastered, puttied and treated with decorative compounds.
Dry	On load-bearing surfaces it is mounted from a wooden beam or a steel profile. Heat-insulating material is laid in the cells of the frame. Most often, mineral wool is used for this, but sometimes, in order to save money, foam plastic with a density of about 20-25 kg / m3 is taken. Facing is mounted on top of the heat-insulating layer - siding, wall paneling, block house, etc. Sometimes a false wall of decorative brick is erected as a cladding.

By and large, it is the finish that determines which method we will use:

• if we want to plaster and paint the walls of the house, then wet technology is used - with foam plastic or polystyrene;
• and if we want to sheathe it with siding or imitation of a bar, then we mount a heater with a frame, be sure to leave a gap inside for ventilation.

Both methods have a right to exist, and therefore below I will describe in detail my own experience in implementing them, adding some useful tips from master finishers.

wet technology

What to insulate?

"Wet" insulation assumes that we will stick heat-insulating boards on a pre-treated wall, and then plaster them. A variety of materials can be used for this process, and I will describe the most commonly used below:

1. Styrofoam is the cheapest, but at the same time the most popular variety. Most often it is used for thermal insulation of outbuildings, as well as for insulation of the facade of high-rise buildings. The thing is that the mechanical properties of the material do not provide the heat-insulating layer with a sufficient margin of safety, therefore the facade of a private house will be regularly damaged during operation.

For work, we take exclusively architectural foam, with a density of about 25 kg / m 3. Building varieties PSB-S 15 or PSB-S 10 do not have delivery strength, and packaging grades not only crumble under more or less intense impacts, but also are characterized by increased flammability. In general, this is the case when saving is clearly inappropriate.

1. Expanded or extruded polystyrene is a more expensive alternative to foam panels. It has a higher density, but at the same time it conducts heat worse and does not burn so intensely (or rather, it almost does not burn on its own, but melts when exposed to high temperatures). The price is higher than that of polystyrene, but at the same time, the increase in price is offset by an increase in the service life of the insulated facade.

1. Expanded polystyrene derivatives - Technoplex, Penoplex, Sanpol and analogues - have approximately the same list of advantages and disadvantages. Most of them are characterized by low thermal conductivity, because, for example, insulation brick house Penoplex thickness up to 100 mm allows to reduce the total heat loss by about 15 - 20%.

1. Mineral wool is another material that is used for "wet" thermal insulation. Unlike polymer plates, it does not burn and does not melt at high temperatures, provides natural ventilation and does not reduce the vapor permeability of walls, and retains heat well.

Many are interested in what density of mineral wool is optimal for plastering, and on this score I fully agree with heating specialists: the minimum limit is approximately at the level of 50-65 kg / m3, and for a guarantee it is better to take products from 80 kg / m3. So the best choice is ISOVER Stucco facade boards, ISOVER OL-Pe, etc.

Ultimately, the choice of material is determined by our financial capabilities. Yes, mineral wool is more reliable, more durable and more efficient, but if the choice is between no insulation at all and thermal insulation using foam, then, it seems to me, it’s still worth gaining at least some savings.

Wall preparation

In order for the outer wall insulation to hold firmly to the base and effectively protect the building from heat loss, the walls themselves must be carefully prepared for work. I usually follow this algorithm:

1. The wall is cleaned of the old finish, since attempts to stick heat-insulating material on old plaster end up the same way - the insulation falls off along with fragments of the base and the decorative layer.

1. All cracks and cracks identified under the plaster are sealed with a repair compound. Deep cracks before this are cleaned and embroidered, which helps to prevent their further expansion.
2. The wall is treated with several layers of a penetrating primer with antiseptic components - this not only improves adhesion to the heat-insulating material, but also protects against the development of fungal colonies in a warm and humid environment.
3. When preparing for insulation in panel houses, special attention is paid to sealing the seams: they are cleaned, embroidered and filled with special mastics that tightly clog all voids. The efficiency of thermal insulation works largely depends on the quality of sealing interpanel seams.

All work - and preparation, and insulation, and finishing - can be performed independently no higher than the second floor. For work at height, it is necessary to invite specialists with the appropriate permit and professional safety equipment at their disposal.

Gluing and fixing the heat insulator

After preparing the base, you can stick insulation for external walls. I act like this:

1. In the lower part of the wall I fix the base profile, the width of which corresponds to the thickness of the heat-insulating material. I set the profile according to the level strictly horizontally, fixing it with anchors recessed into the wall by at least 40-50 mm.
2. I am preparing an adhesive composition based on a dry mix of Ceresit CT-85 or its analogue. I pour the powder with a high content of cement and plasticizers into cool water (the manufacturer's instructions will tell you the proportions) and mix at least twice with a mixer nozzle installed in an electric drill chuck.

1. I lay the panel of thermal insulation material face down on the ground. On the wrong side, using a knife or a needle roller, I apply embossed notches that will increase adhesion with the adhesive composition.
2. I apply an adhesive mass to the insulation - with a strip around the perimeter and several slides in the center of the panel.

1. I attach the panel to the wall, setting the lower edge into the basement profile. I level the insulation and press it to the base for 30-45 seconds for primary polymerization.
2. I paste over the selected section of the wall according to the same scheme, placing the panels in a checkerboard pattern - so that the joints between them do not coincide.
3. Through the panels I drill holes with a diameter of 10 mm. The penetration into the wall fencing should be at least 50-60 mm. For reliable fixation, holes are needed at the corners of the panels, as well as one or two in the center.

The length of the drill used depends on the thickness of the thermal insulation panels used for cladding. In any case, it is useful to have at least two or three drills for concrete with a length of 20 cm or more in the tool kit - they definitely will not be superfluous!

1. I drive plastic dowels with a dish-shaped neck into the drilled holes. In this case, the wide part of the dowel should be recessed into the insulation by about 2-3 mm.
2. After installing the dowels, I fix them with special nails (express installation) or locking screws with a conical point.

1. I fill the gaps between the panels with scraps of insulation, fixing them with adhesive. I blow out small voids with self-expanding polyurethane foam.
2. I putty the seams and hats of the anchors, using the same mixture for sealing as for gluing.

Finishing

All insulation for the exterior walls of the house, used for "wet" finishing, must be protected from external influences. Most often, plastering technology is used for this, followed by staining.

The technology of plastering on insulation has its own characteristics: we have to work with a base that is not the strongest, therefore, we cannot do without reinforcement to increase adhesion and improve mechanical characteristics:

1. I glue the corners of the structure and all the joints of the planes with perforated corners made of aluminum or plastic. If there is no corner, you can use a strip of reinforcing mesh.

1. Then, using a plaster mortar for facade decoration, I glue an alkali-resistant polymer mesh for outdoor work on all surfaces. For gluing, I use a spatula, with which I press the mesh into a thin layer of solution applied to polystyrene foam, polystyrene or mineral wool.

In order to avoid delamination, the mesh rolls are overlapped with an overlap of approximately 40-50 mm.

1. After partial polymerization of the composition with which the mesh was glued, I perform surface grouting. I grout with a plaster trowel without an abrasive element.
2. Then I apply a second, leveling layer of facade plaster. After drying, I also rub it, but this time using a plaster mesh or sandpaper. During grouting, I smooth out all the bumps as much as possible, achieving a perfectly smooth surface.

1. Before finishing, I prime the facade. Ceresit CT-16 primer is used for decorative plaster or light facing material, Ceresit CT-17 for painting.

After the polymerization of the primer, I perform the finishing - I paint the facade with pigments for outdoor use (using a roller or spray gun), line it with decorative panels, fixing them with glue, or apply a layer of pre-tinted decorative plaster, forming an attractive relief on its surface.

Dry technology

Foundation preparation

Other methods can be used for external thermal insulation of walls, and one of the most popular is the arrangement of the so-called ventilated facade. This technology involves the installation of heat-insulating material under the cladding, fixed on a special frame, and therefore here it is necessary to pay all attention to preparing the walls for finishing.

By and large, brick walls with insulation are in contact in almost the same way as in the case of a “wet” finish. But a wooden house - from a log or timber - is prepared a little differently:

1. To begin with, the wood is cleaned, which consists in removing all weakly holding elements - wood chips, bark residues, etc. For a freshly built house, this operation is not mandatory, but it is better to clean up the old back.

1. The next step is sealing the joints. We pick up a special spatula, a hammer and caulk all the cracks - both the gaps between the crowns, and the cracks in the logs themselves or the bars, formed due to uneven drying. For caulking, we use jute, linen tow or special cords made from a mixture of natural and synthetic fibers.
2. After sealing the cracks, we treat the tree with an antiseptic. Under the layer of thermal insulation, we have an area with increased temperature and humidity, so it is very important for us to protect the tree from the effects of microorganisms, fungi and insects.

Frame installation

Next, we proceed to the installation of the crate, on which the facing material will be held. It can be made either from a wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic (it will turn out cheaper), or from a galvanized steel profile (it is more expensive, but it serves more and is less prone to deformation).

We work like this:

1. From the outside of the building, we install brackets on the wall, fixing them with anchors.
2. To reduce heat loss at the point of contact between the wall and metal, we place either a layer of roofing material or a paronite gasket under the base of each bracket.

1. We choose the length of the bracket so that it is 10-20 mm more than the thickness of the heat-insulating panels used. This margin is necessary to organize an internal ventilation gap.
2. On the brackets we install the bars themselves or the profiles of the crate. Their location depends on how the finishing panels will be attached: for a horizontal finish, we need a vertical frame and vice versa.

The use of a metal profile allows you to finish the wall with heat-insulating panels without cracks and gaps. In this case, the frame is attached to the brackets after the installation of the heat insulator.

1. When installing the crate, we control the position of its elements using a level and a plumb line. It is extremely important that a flat plane is formed - it depends on this how neatly the facade cladding will look.

After completing this stage, you can proceed to the actual insulation.

Insulation and cladding

Thermal insulation of the outer wall of the house along the crate is carried out as follows:

1. Panels of heat-insulating material based on mineral fiber are cut through, forming holes in the places where the brackets pass.
2. We put the insulation on the brackets and press it tightly against the wall.

For additional fixation strength, you can use adhesives, as well as dowel umbrellas with metal locking screws.

1. An alternative to this method can be laying mineral wool panels in the cells of the crate, where the heat-insulating material will be held due to its own elasticity. In order for us to succeed, we need to think in advance about the placement of the frame parts, making the cell width equal to the width of the heat-insulating panel.

1. Another way of warming is spraying the so-called ecowool. This material is a loose substance based on cellulose fiber impregnated with glue. Ecowool is sprayed inside the frame with the help of special pumps and forms an inseparable layer with low thermal conductivity.

1. We mount a windproof membrane on top of the insulation, which will prevent the wall from blowing through and reduce the risk of wetting the thermal insulation if the cladding loses its tightness. For wind protection, it is worth using special membranes with high vapor permeability: if we take ordinary polyethylene, then condensate will inevitably collect under it, moistening the insulation and reducing its effectiveness.
2. After that, we install the frame guides (if this has not been done before) and attach the facade trim to them.

For sheathing a ventilated facade over a heat-insulating layer, you can use:

• siding (PVC or metal);
• block house;
• false beam;
• durable lining;
• planken (wooden panels that have undergone heat treatment);
• products made of wood-polymer composite;
• corrugated board (suitable for outbuildings and industrial facilities);
• ceramic and porcelain stoneware panels, etc.

When choosing a finishing material, we focus on our financial capabilities, on the complexity of installation, and also on the overall stylistic decision of the building. It is important that the facade looks attractive and lasts long enough, because we provide it with a basic level of energy efficiency thanks to the insulation hidden under the finish!

Materials and tools - reference information

Thermal insulation of walls is a rather laborious process, therefore, it should only be undertaken with proper technical equipment. And first of all, you should think about how we will work on the upper tier, because even in the case of a one-story house, the height turns out to be decent, and neither sticking insulation nor plastering from the ground will work.

So first you need to either purchase or (preferably) rent suitable scaffolding or at least goats with a changing platform height.

In addition, we will need:

• perforator with a set of concrete drills and a chisel attachment;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• foam knife;
• a set of spatulas for glue and plaster;
• brushes for priming and painting;
• measuring tool;
• saw for wood or scissors for metal for mounting the crate;
• graters with abrasive elements for grinding the surface.

Naturally, each master will add something of his own to this basic set, but the minimum must be at our disposal for sure!

Separately, it is worth talking about the cost of insulation. In the case of centralized facade thermal insulation work, their cost is calculated according to the elemental estimated standards (the collection of GESN 2001-26 "Heat-insulation work" is used). But for private construction, the proposed method is hardly suitable, therefore, when working independently, you need to start from the cost of materials first of all.

In the table below, I will provide an indicative list of prices that you can use when budgeting for thermal insulation work:

Material	unit of measurement	Average cost, rubles
Mineral wool ISOVER plaster facade, 1200x600x100 mm	pack of 4	1400 -1700
Polyfoam facade PSB-S 25, 1000x1000x50 mm	sheet	170 – 220
Expanded polystyrene sheet, 1250x600x50 mm	sheet	180 – 220
Facade mesh alkali-resistant 160 g/m2, 1m	roll 50 m	1200 – 1600
Facade plaster corner	m.	45 – 70
Dowel plate 100x10 mm	100 pieces.	250 – 350
Primer Ceresit CT 16	10 l.	780 — 900
Plaster Knauf Diamant	25 kg	350 — 420
Glue for expanded polystyrene Ivsil Termofix-P	25 kg	350 — 400
Windproof membrane for walls ROCKWOOL	70 m2	1500 — 1700
Sliding bracket for ventilated facade	PCS.	25 -35
Profile for purlins, panel 3 m	PCS.	200 – 350
Vinyl siding, 3500x205 mm	PCS.	120 – 450
Facade porcelain tile, panel 60x60 cm	PCS.	500 – 1200
Larch block house, 22x90 mm	1 m2	650 — 1200

Conclusion

Effective insulation of the outer walls of a brick house, just like the thermal insulation of buildings made of wood or, provides us with a normalization of the microclimate and solid energy savings.

So if you do not want to overpay for heating (and in the summer - also for air conditioning!), Then you should think about how to equip the heat-insulating circuit yourself. A fairly detailed video in this article will help you with this, as well as advice from practitioners (including mine), which you can get by asking a question in the comments.

- this is the placement of a thermal layer inside the wall frame. In some situations, it is necessary to minimize heat loss by supplementing the internal thermal insulation with an external one. We will figure out how and with what to insulate a wooden house from the outside, evaluate the characteristics, features of operation and installation of different materials.

The specifics of the insulation of frame houses from the outside

In quickly erected buildings using Scandinavian or American technology, the role of a heat insulator is assigned directly to wall panels. The insulation is mounted between the racks of the frame and covered with a rough sheathing - wood-fiber panels, OSB boards, etc.

However, with poor-quality work, improperly selected thickness or density of the heat insulator, the house may not retain heat well. To reduce the cost of paying for energy resources and improve the indoor climate in winter, additional insulation is required.

A set of requirements is put forward for a heat insulator for external walls:

1. Low thermal conductivity. Among the heaters, this property can boast of: polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
2. Minimum water absorption. Despite the additional protection of the heat-insulating layer from water, the insulation, one way or another, will come into contact with water vapor. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a material with low hygroscopicity.
3. Fire safety. It is optimal if the insulation has the ability to self-extinguish, does not contribute to the spread of fire and smokes little during combustion.
4. Light weight. Frames are built on a lightweight foundation and are not designed for significant loads.

In addition, the facade insulation for the exterior of the house must hold the linear dimensions well and not shrink. Additional requirements: environmental friendliness and affordable cost.

The choice of thermal insulation: characteristics and features of materials

The best option for insulation for outdoor use in frame construction is basalt wool. The material is heat-efficient and fireproof, but quite expensive. With a limited budget, foam or extruded polystyrene foam with flame retardants is suitable.

Video: facade insulation in a "wet" way

The construction of walls and roofs of the house is only half the battle. It is necessary to make the constructed space comfortable for life. To do this, most often the house is insulated from the outside or from the inside, and sometimes both options are used simultaneously.

Do you want to insulate your home, but do not know what technologies exist and where to start? We will help you deal with this problem - the article discusses the main options used for external thermal insulation. The procedure for performing work was also considered, thematic photos and useful video recommendations on the nuances of insulation were selected.

The materials from which the walls of capital structures are built can be different: brick, concrete, slag or aerated concrete blocks, wood, sandwich panels - these are just their main types.

For some of them, insulation is not required at all: for example, for sandwich panels. But other options need it to one degree or another.

Why is it necessary to insulate the outside? Many attribute this to the fact that in the case of an insulating layer inside the building, the useful spatial volume is stolen from the interior.

This is partly true, but the main reason is not at all in this. The critical parameter is .

The dew point is formed on the surface, where there is a temperature difference with a change in pressure.

And if you arrange thermal insulation inside the room, it means that the walls of the building themselves will be cold, since the insulation will save heat inside the space and prevent it from getting onto the building envelope.

Insulation from the inside is fraught with the fact that the dew point will form precisely inside the building, most likely on the inner surface of the main wall, which is insulated with insulation

Methods and procedure for wall insulation

It turns out that a change in the weather outside will provoke a change in humidity inside. Moreover, the changes will be significant - condensation will form on the walls, which will not be able to dry. Hence a number of negative points, including development.

That is why it is so important to insulate the walls from the outside. In total, 3 technologies are distinguished, with the help of which capital structures are insulated. It seems reasonable to dwell on each of them in more detail.

Method number 1 - well

This is one of the oldest ways to insulate the walls of your house from the outside. Indeed, everything is logical: the main load-bearing walls are built, and after that, stepping back a little, they are lined with another row of bricks - half a brick thick, for example.

Between the capital and the outer wall, let's call it decorative, a void is formed - a “well”, which creates the effect of a thermos.

The distance from the decorative wall to the main one is regulated with the help of special binding steel anchors or a reinforcing mesh is laid. It overlaps the section of the well and at the same time serves as reinforcement for strengthening the outer wall.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Analysis of the most common mistakes in the external insulation of the facades of private houses:

Thermal insulation of capital buildings ceases to be a separate issue, which is resolved after the house is built. Now it is decisive when choosing the construction technology itself.

Over time, with the rise in the cost of electricity and energy carriers, for example, gas, it will be questions that will come to the fore when erecting a building. heat saving.

Tell us what method of insulation you used to insulate your own home and which ones you used for this. Are you satisfied with the result? Please leave your comments in the contact box below the article.

For owners of country houses and especially country houses with year-round living, ensuring a constant comfortable temperature in all rooms is always very important. No matter how efficient various heating systems are, the main factor is always the ability of house structures to retain heat inside the building. First of all, this applies to walls that have the largest surface area of ​​the house and, accordingly, give out the maximum heat loss of the building. The simplest and most effective method in terms of results is the insulation of walls from the outside. What materials for insulating the walls of the house are the most effective, as well as learn about the technology for performing such work, you can by studying this article.

Heat loss through the wall

The goal of any insulation is to minimize heat exchange with the environment.

Based on this, we can safely say that the external insulation of the walls of the house is a very important stage of construction work:

• Reduce heating costs in winter and air conditioning in summer.
• Comfort and coziness in the house not only at the peak of frost and heat, but also in the off-season with minimal use of household heating appliances.

Even high-quality construction of houses from any building materials cannot completely solve the problem of saving heat inside them. There are always invisible gaps between rows of logs or wooden beams, heterogeneity and voids in brick or block masonry, lack of insulation, air cavities, expansion joints in panel and monolithic housing construction.

All the shortcomings of the walls can be clearly identified only with the use of thermal imaging technology. This service is provided by some specialized and construction organizations to assess heat losses during heating of buildings and develop solutions to eliminate them.

The traditional solution to eliminate heat loss are various ways of external insulation of the walls of a private house:

• Plaster with various fillers.
• Wall cladding with lumber.
• External single-row masonry with brick or stone for wooden buildings with filling the resulting gap with heat-insulating materials.
• Facing with sheet materials () using insulation.
• The use of modern hinged facades.

Sometimes the insulation of the walls of a private house with their own hands is also performed from the inside of the premises using sheet or rolled heat-insulating materials, cladding, cladding with a gypsum-fiber sheet,.

The materials and substances used to reduce heat loss are characterized by both their own low thermal conductivity and additional heat retention during their use due to the multilayer structure (hydro, sound and heat insulation) of wall insulation. After all, such a structure contains air layers that conduct heat poorly.

Advantages of outdoor insulation

Structurally, there are three possibilities for insulating the external load-bearing walls of any building:

1. Placement of insulation elements inside the wall. Perhaps at the stage of construction or reconstruction of the building. Most often it requires design solutions to ensure the bearing capacity, structural and thermal calculation.
2. From inside the premises. This type of insulation reduces the area and volume of the room, and also creates certain difficulties in carrying out work under cramped conditions in a populated residential building.
3. Outside the wall. This method is usually not limited by space for work, delivery and storage of necessary materials, scaffolding and use of lifting mechanisms. Depending on the materials used for insulation and finishing, it is possible to perform work at almost any time of the year.

• Important! With external insulation of the walls of the house, moisture condensation due to the temperature difference outside and inside the building does not occur inside the room or wall structure, but outside. This not only solves the problem of sweating and the inevitable formation of fungus when the walls freeze, but also significantly slows down the process of wall destruction due to the cessation of the regular formation of moisture and ice crystals inside the structures. For reliable protection of the walls outside the house from the influence of external factors, it will not be superfluous to use a hinged ventilated facade.

In addition, by insulating the walls from the outside, along the way you will solve at least two more problems - improving the sound insulation and appearance of the building, which is often no less important for the owner and family members. Thermal insulation perfectly absorbs background noise and harsh sounds, and a variety of facing materials of various textures and colors can protect the walls from external influences and radically change the look of the house.

This method of insulation with optimal investment will help to significantly reduce heating costs, which is important given the cost of heating at ever-increasing prices for any energy carriers: firewood, coal, gas and electricity.

You can qualitatively insulate the walls of the house with the help of liquid polyurethane foam. To do this, using special equipment, it is pumped through external holes into the air gap between the wall of the house and the interior lining of the room.

Wall materials and methods of their insulation

For the construction of load-bearing walls of buildings, various materials and finished structures will be used, as well as different methods and methods of masonry, assembly and fastening, binders and fasteners. The physical properties of these substances and materials directly shape the dynamics of temperature changes inside the house under the influence of external and internal factors.

Brick and wood, foam and reinforced concrete, cement mixture blocks with various fillers, prefabricated puff wall structures have different thermal conductivity, thermal inertia, density and strength. Factory building structures made of reinforced concrete have the worst thermal insulation properties, which is most often aggravated by shortcomings and violations of the technological process at all stages of the construction of buildings from it. This also applies to precast concrete buildings. All this is important for the correct choice of material and method of external wall insulation.

Materials used for the construction and insulation of the walls of the house

Material name	Density	Thermal Conductivity Coefficient (W/m*K)
concrete block	2100-2200	0,8-1,74
Brick (red)	1700-1900	0,55-0,96
Wood (pine, spruce)	450-550	0,10-0,18
Polystyrene concrete	900-1100	0,25-0,39
mineral wool	50-100-200	0.045-0.055-0.06 (respectively)
Styrofoam	30	0,04
Styrofoam	100-125-150	0.039-0.051-0.055 (respectively)
Polyurethane foam (PPU)	50	0,033

The main task of the external insulation of the house is to protect the building structures of the wall from contact with too hot or cold outside air and precipitation. In practice, this range varies from traditional sheathing with planed boards, clapboard to the installation of ventilated facade systems.

wall facade

Sheathing and cladding of the external walls of buildings for wind protection and insulation using lumber, roofing material, technical cardboard, profiled metal sheets, various types of siding with mineral wool mats or foam plastic sheets are the most common way of external insulation.

No less common and also used today is decorative plaster with various mixtures, followed by surface painting. The disadvantages of this type of insulation have always been high labor intensity and fragility of work without constant supervision, current repair of the coating, which is quickly destroyed by temperature extremes and precipitation. The effectiveness of insulation by this method also leaves much to be desired.

The lower the density of the heat-insulating material (the more air closed cells in it), the better properties for insulation it has.

The most popular and used types of thermal insulation of walls today are various mineral wool in rolls or ready-made mats of different sizes, expanded polystyrene sheets, often called polystyrene, fiberglass materials.

More rare are foil polyethylene foam, wood fiberboard, various liquid polymer compositions that foam in the volume to be filled, organosilicon heat-resistant paints, cellulose insulation called ecowool, sprayed polyurethane foam.

On top of the layers of insulation and waterproofing, walls are lined with sheet and tile materials:

professional sheet;
Siding;
Hanging facades.

Good to know! Profiled sheet and siding are the most sold and used facing materials. In addition to their excellent appearance, they qualitatively protect the insulation between them and the wall of the building from all external influences.

outside wall insulation technology

To insulate the surface of the walls of buildings from the outside, several methods and technological methods are used:

1. Fastening heat-insulating materials to the facade with glue or mechanical fixation. This is followed by a reinforcing mesh, a layer of plaster and a finishing coat. This method is called a wet facade.
2. Thermal insulation is attached to the wall in the same way as the first method. Then a wall is erected with an air gap in one brick from a facing or ordinary brick, followed by painting.
3. Fastening alternately the waterproofing layer, insulation, wind protection. A decorative sheathing made of profiled sheet, siding, ceramic tiles is attached to a frame made of a mounting metal profile or a wooden bar.

The choice of wall insulation method depends on many factors:

• Type and height of the building;
• Material and wall area;
• Degrees of freezing and heat loss;
• Funding allocated for these works.

It is up to the owner with family members and friends to insulate the walls of a country or country house with their own hands, but it is worth entrusting a specialized construction organization to carry out work on the insulation of a multi-storey building.

The best option for performing work on external insulation:

It is better to carry out the whole range of works when there are design solutions, thermal and structural calculations, as well as specifications of building materials and fasteners. You can make them yourself or order documentation from specialists. construction organization involved in building insulation.

This approach will save you from a lot of problems: the choice of a suitable certified material, its delivery, installation work, especially at height, which requires mandatory qualifications and permits for such work.

If the owner of a private house is confident in his abilities and building skills, then you can choose the most acceptable method from his point of view, buy materials available everywhere today and insulate the walls outside the house yourself. So you can not only save money, but also enjoy the result.

Owners of private houses often ask themselves what kind of wall insulation from the outside is the most effective. Which is better to choose a heater so that the load-bearing wall structures do not conduct cold in winter and repel heat in hot summers. Many modern heat-insulating materials not only prevent heat loss in the cold season, but also protect the room from the penetration of thermal radiation in summer. The issue of thermal insulation of your home must be approached with all seriousness. How comfortable and cozy the house will be for its residents depends on how high-quality you make the thermal insulation system for your home.

External wall insulation

Thermal insulation materials, types and characteristics

Previously, organic insulation in the form of sawdust, peat, etc. was used to insulate the building structure. A significant drawback of these materials was combustibility, high moisture absorption, susceptibility to decay and mold.

At the moment, organic heaters for thermal insulation of the house are practically not used. Now the construction market offers a wide range of synthetic thermal insulation materials with the best technical characteristics.

Expanded polystyrene, its advantages and disadvantages

Most people, when deciding how to insulate the house from the outside, prefer polystyrene foam. Such popularity of this heater is due to its low cost and excellent performance.

Of particular note are the following advantages of polystyrene foam:

• lower, in comparison with mineral wool heaters, thermal conductivity (this allows the thickness of the insulation layer to be made smaller);
• affordable cost (polystyrene foam is cheaper than mineral wool);
• ease of installation (this material lends itself well to processing).

The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene can be called: lower vapor permeability, in comparison with mineral wool insulation, and higher flammability.

Expanded polystyrene, despite some of its shortcomings, is widely used for facade insulation. The use of this material for thermal insulation of a building is three to four times cheaper than the use of other insulation, in particular mineral wool.

Important! Due to the low vapor permeability, expanded polystyrene is not recommended for insulating wooden houses. The only area of ​​its application is the insulation of stone facades.

Expanded polystyrene is very effective for warming brick houses. Styrofoam thermal insulation with a thickness of only 80 mm makes it possible to four times reduce fuel consumption during the cold season.

Polyfoil insulation material

Quite an interesting modern insulation is pnofolgirovannyy insulation. It is a layer of polyethylene foam, which is clamped on both sides with aluminum foil. The features of this material are low weight and low thermal conductivity (the thermal conductivity of this insulation is 1.5 times less than that of basalt insulation).

The advantages of this material include ease of installation, the insulation is attached to the walls with a construction stapler. Of the shortcomings, it is worth noting the absolute vapor and gas impermeability.

Pressed cork insulation

Such a rather exotic insulation, like pressed cork, is made from the bark of a cork oak growing in the Mediterranean. This insulation is produced in rolls and plates, has a very attractive appearance, is an environmentally friendly material. Pressed cork is used for internal wall insulation; this material, due to its excellent appearance, also performs the functions of a decorative finish. Cork boards can also be used for external insulation of facades.

Mineral wool on a stone basis

A distinctive feature of mineral wool fibers is their ability to withstand temperatures above 1000° without melting. Thanks to this, mineral wool prevents the spread of fire and protects the structures of houses built from combustible materials (for example, wooden houses) from fire. Insulators with high water absorption rates lose their thermal insulation properties, since water entering the thermal insulation material fills the air pores and increases the thermal conductivity of the insulation. Mineral wool practically does not absorb moisture, therefore it remains dry and retains its properties of low thermal conductivity, even if moisture gets on its surface.

The numerous advantages of mineral wool also include high resistance to mechanical stress.

Fiberglass thermal insulation materials

Fiberglass materials can be used to insulate the house from the outside. The main components used to make fiberglass are cullet, sand, dolomite, limestone, soda, etibor, etc. The fiberglass raw material is melted in a melting furnace at 1400°C and fed into the front hearth where it goes through the fiberization stage. On centrifuges, molten glass breaks up into fibers 6 microns thick. After that, the resulting products are impregnated with polymer resin and fed to the conveyor, where they are formed into mats. The remaining water is evaporated from the mats and a high-quality insulation is obtained.

Fiberglass materials have the best qualities for thermal insulation of building facades, which include:

• Fire safety.
• Economy in transportation.
• Ease of installation.
• Low coefficient of thermal conductivity (from 0.035 to 0.044 W / mK), due to the ability of fiberglass to firmly retain air, and, as a result, excellent thermal insulation properties. Fiberglass insulation can reliably protect against cold in winter and heat in summer.
• Moisture resistant. Due to its non-hygroscopicity (glass wool does not absorb water), the heat-insulating properties do not deteriorate when moisture enters the material.
• Environmental friendliness. Fiberglass insulation does not emit harmful substances and is safe for health, it does not form mold and rot.

Glass wool is an effective insulation

What is better for thermal insulation of walls from the outside: mineral wool or expanded polystyrene

Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are the most requested insulation for thermal insulation of walls from the outside. The installation of mineral wool slabs is similar to the technology of laying polystyrene foam, in addition, these two heaters have similar technical characteristics, so when they decide what is better to insulate the house from the outside, these two heaters are first of all compared.

When they want to cheaply insulate walls from the outside, in most cases polystyrene boards are chosen. This material is not only cheaper than mineral wool, but its installation does not require special skills or complex tools; almost every owner can install thermal insulation using foam boards with their own hands. But when installing cheap foam insulation of walls from the outside, you should not discount that this material has low mechanical strength. In addition, rats and mice love to gnaw on polystyrene.

To insulate facades, manufacturers produce special types of vapor-permeable foam with a compacted outer layer. But the cost of such material is not less than the cost of mineral wool.

Insulation such as extruded polystyrene foam is not suitable for insulating walls from the outside, as it has zero vapor permeability. Using it to insulate facades leads to dampness of the material from which the walls are erected. From moisture on the surface of the walls, mold and fungi appear. On the market, you can buy vapor-permeable perforated extruded polystyrene foam intended for external insulation of facades. But their price is not less than the cost of mineral wool insulation.

When using expanded polystyrene for external wall insulation, it is better to purchase material with atipirenes, these are special substances that prevent the material from burning. Styrofoam with flame retardant acquires fire-fighting properties.

Mineral wool is not combustible, it resists mechanical stress well, it has sufficient vapor permeability, therefore, it is more preferable for external wall insulation, but with the correct design of the thermal insulation system, foam boards will also cope well with their functions.