Do-it-yourself water-heated floor on the ground. How to make a warm floor on the ground in a private house Warm floor on the ground without a rough screed

When planning to make a warm floor in the house on the ground, it is advisable to make the structure in two stages: first, pour a rough screed onto the lower layers, and only after it has matured, lay all the other layers on it.

The fact is that the soil and, accordingly, all layers above it can sag. Even if the soil is compacted, even if it is rammed, there will be movements. He lay simply, without load. If you lay a warm floor cake on top, and it weighs a lot, drawdowns will begin, cracks will appear. It can even break the elements of the warm floor. Then all the money will be thrown to the wind. That is why experts advise first to make a rough floor according to all the rules, and then lay a water floor on top. So much more reliable.

Yes, many have a warm floor on the ground without a screed, and nothing sags. But not for everyone and not always. So think carefully. A warm concrete floor on the ground will be more reliable with a rough screed. If you still decide to do without this layer, install at least two reinforcing frames: the first under the heat insulator, and the second in the screed. Then, with careful ramming, everything can stand well.

An example of a floor heating pie on the ground

First of all, we determine the level to which you need to remove the soil. The soil must be removed. If the humus layer or plant residues are not removed, they will begin to decompose and “smell”. Therefore, you will make a draft floor or not, but you need to remove all unnecessary. Moreover, the fertile layer is usually the loosest, and it will definitely settle and can pull all the layers lying above with it. The rocks lying below are denser, firstly because they experience heavy loads, and secondly, because living beings and microorganisms live there less.

For the whole cake of a warm floor on the ground, it can take from 20 cm or more (in some regions - much more). Therefore, you need to start marking from the zero level - where the final floor will be located. Mark it, and then consider how deep you need to go. It is advisable to mark the level of each layer: then it will be easier to navigate.

Warm floor on the ground is quite possible to do it yourself

The correct design of a warm floor on the ground is as follows:

Take off fertile soil remove all rubbish and stones. Level and compact the remaining soil. This must be done very carefully, and verified by the level. This is the basis for all subsequent materials.
A layer of compacted sand (level). Any sand is taken for filling. The main thing is to compact it well and level it again.
A layer of expanded clay or crushed stone (crushed stone is preferable due to lower thermal conductivity). Fraction - small or medium. We compact for a long time and persistently until it becomes almost a monolith.
Pre-stretch. There are two options here:
- Spill crushed stone and sand with a liquid solution (sand + cement in a ratio of 2: 1).
- Fill in the black screed. The desired thickness of this layer is 5-7cm. And for reliability, lay a reinforcing mesh of metal wire 3 mm, with a cell of 10 * 10 cm. Such a draft floor is more reliable. It will withstand heavy loads.
After everything has set and the concrete has hardened, a layer of waterproofing is laid. If the ground is dry, this is usually polyethylene film, preferably 200 mn in two coats.
Styrofoam plates (glue the joints with adhesive tape so that the solution does not leak).
A layer of metallized waterproofing (not foil, but metallized).
Underfloor heating fixing system and heating tubes, cables, etc.
Underfloor heating screed, preferably reinforced.

Read about solutions and additives for underfloor heating here.

The thickness of all layers of the underfloor heating cake on the ground depends on the region: the colder, the more. In the south, it can be 2-5 cm, but the further north, the more massive layers are required. Each of them is well compacted and leveled. Can be used manual rammers, but mechanical ones are much more efficient.

Particular attention should be paid to the heat insulator. It is recommended to use expanded polystyrene in plates, its density is not lower than 35 kg / m3. For the northern regions, it can be 10 cm or more. If the thickness of the thermal insulation is large (extruded polystyrene foam), it is advisable to use two layers of boards. And lay them so that the seams of the lower layer overlap with the slab lying on top. Glue the joints of each layer with tape.

To protect against dampness, do not forget to carry out waterproofing work with the foundation before starting all work. It is also important not to forget to isolate the foundation from the entire underfloor heating structure. It is necessary to put the same polystyrene foam in plates along the perimeter. In general, the idea behind hydro and thermal insulation is this: to reduce heat loss, you need to isolate your floor from everything but indoor air. Then the heating will be economical, and the rooms will be warm.

Choice of thermal insulation key moment in the organization of a warm floor

Process technology at high groundwater levels

If the groundwater is high, correct sequence layers is not everything. You need to get the water out somehow.

If the depth of laying the underfloor heating layers turned out to be lower than the level of soil water, drainage is necessary. For him, at least 30 cm lower required level making a drainage system. It is advisable to pour river sand, but such volumes cost a lot, so you can use other rocks, but not peat or black soil. As an option - excavated soil mixed with crushed stone.

When laying heat-insulating plates, their joints must be glued with adhesive tape - so the solution will not flow into the cracks

The selected material is poured in layers of 10 cm, each of which is compacted and spilled with water. Layers are usually made three, but more can be. On compacted sand or soil with crushed stone, we lay a layer of geotextile. it modern material, which will pass water down and will not mix different materials. It is not damaged by insects and animals, has high tensile strength. Also, geotextiles additionally equalize the mechanical loads that the floor will experience.

At the same stage, you need to take care of both the hydro and thermal insulation of the floor from the foundation. Can be used for this purpose bituminous mastic or other modern and reliable waterproofing materials and impregnations. And the thermal insulation is standard: the inner perimeter of the foundation is covered with expanded polystyrene plates.

Then there are layers of sand and gravel, and they are poured rough screed. Spilling with a liquid cement-sand composition in this case is undesirable. A rough screed is needed for reliability. After it dries, a layer of waterproofing should be applied. With a high level of groundwater, it is better to use not polyethylene, but welded waterproofing or polymer membranes. They are more reliable, although they are more expensive.

Underfloor heating construction on the ground

Further, all the layers, as recommended earlier: a heat insulator, a metal-coated hydrobarrier, and fasteners with underfloor heating pipes (or heating cables, for example). All this is covered with a metal reinforcing mesh and filled with another layer of mortar. And then - depending on the used finish coat for underfloor heating.

Results

Warm floor in the house on the ground - quite complex structure. In order for it to be reliable, a rough screed is needed. If for some reason it is not possible to make a screed, you can, in extreme cases, get by with tamping the layers.

Photo gallery (7 photos):

AT last years many people leave noisy metropolitan areas, erecting private houses outside the city. Houses built from natural materials are especially popular. After concrete walls apartment life in wooden house seems like heaven. Due to the availability of materials, the construction of such houses is much cheaper, and the healthy microclimate created natural material makes it easier to breathe.

But what to do if a wooden house has already been built, and underfoot instead of the usual concrete base- dirt floor? In this case, it is advisable to install underfloor heating, laid in a concrete screed, and powered by a boiler. And as a finishing coating in a wooden house, use a laminate or porcelain stoneware tiles, since these materials are the best conductors of heat. In this way, it will be possible to make your home warm and cozy, as close as possible to the comfort of a city apartment.

Features of a warm floor on the ground

In a wooden private house, alternative heating systems are increasingly being used, which include underfloor heating, laid under the laminate.

Moreover, it is water systems that are most popular, allowing significant savings on energy consumption.

Having equipped a dry warm water floor under a laminate on the ground in a wooden private house, you can significantly reduce the cost of building a foundation, and put the house into operation faster, ensuring a high level of comfort.

It is very important that such heating has a high degree of durability. Therefore, the only way to install it is to install the pipes of the system in a concrete screed.

Despite the apparent complexity of the work on the organization of such heating, it is quite possible to organize it independently, carrying out work in several stages.

When arranging heating on the ground in the house, it is necessary to achieve the following results:

Underfloor heating cake on the ground

Comply with everything necessary requirements and provide rational use the “warm water floor” system in the house, powered by a boiler, is helped by a special multi-layer structure laid under the laminate. So what layers does the pie of the system, equipped on the ground, and working from a common heating boiler, consist of?

Before proceeding to direct work in the house associated with laying layers on the dirt floor, it is necessary on the surface of the walls around the entire perimeter of the room in log house draw a control line. This stage necessary in order to adjust each layer of the cake.

Only then can you move on to next steps works, allowing you to eventually get a dry and warm floor.

Underfloor heating cake on the ground

Laying an insulating pad

The organization of heating in the form of a water heated floor on the ground, powered by a boiler, requires preliminary insulation - pillows. And its first layer should be dry river sand of a large fraction.

It is poured onto the waterproofing covering the soil floor with a layer equal to 15 cm, after which it is carefully compacted wet way. If the sand is not compacted, then in further soil may sag.

If groundwater is located close, then first the earthen floors must be provided with a drainage system.

The next step will be laying a pillow of large gravel or expanded clay. Moreover, it is preferable to use crushed stone, since it has a very low degree of thermal conductivity, which means it will more effectively retain heat inside the cake.

It should be borne in mind that the thickness of the pillow for the “warm floor” system, together with sand, should not exceed 30 cm.

Pouring a rough screed

To increase the strength of the structure, before proceeding with the pouring of the rough screed, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh. Also when installing a water floor heating in a wooden house must be guided general requirements to the length of the pipeline in the circuit: it should not exceed 100 m. Therefore, if the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is large, the floor must be divided into sections, laying a damper tape around their perimeter.

The thickness of the rough screed should be 10-15 cm. It is possible to eliminate cracking of the rough screed when arranging heating on the ground under the laminate if it is wetted daily with water, covered in this form with plastic wrap. Such manipulations must be carried out within a week.

Laying waterproofing

To obtain a dry warm floor, a waterproofing layer is laid on its rough surface, which can be an ordinary polyethylene film with a thickness of 250 microns or more. However, PVC membranes will handle this function more effectively. It should be noted that along the perimeter of the entire room it is necessary to make an allowance for the walls equal to 15 cm, fixing it with construction tape. They also glue all the joints of the film. Excess waterproofing is removed after all work is completed.

Laying thermal insulation

To get a dry and warm floor in a private house allows laying a heat-insulating layer. This minimizes heat loss. Styrofoam or extruded polystyrene plates with a thickness of 5 cm to 10 cm can be laid as thermal insulation. The latter option is preferable.

Insulation of the base before laying pipes

Laying water circuits and finishing screed

It is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh on the heat-insulating layer, which, in this case will perform two functions:

The contours of the warm floor on the ground, laid under the laminate, may consist of various pipes. But the most popular are pipes made of metal-plastic and cross-linked polyethylene. Underfloor heating circuits are laid with a snake or snail, observing a certain step between the turns of the system.

Regardless of the method of laying the circuits and their number, they are all connected to a collector, which is installed on the wall in close proximity to the floor. Next, the system is pressure tested and tested for thermal stability.

For cooking cement-sand mixture used cement brand M100. And the mixture itself is prepared by mixing with sand in proportions of 1: 3. The drying time of the finished floor is about 28 days, after which it will be possible to lay the laminate. You can reduce the waiting time if you use the dry method of laying the mixture.

When installing several water circuits laid under the laminate, it is necessary to use expansion joints created by separating sections of the room with a damper tape.

How to install a heating boiler

The most important stage in the organization of heating in a private house is the installation of a boiler. certain power, which should be determined based on the total power of all circuits of a warm water floor and a margin equal to 15-20%.

The circulation of the coolant in the system is carried out using a pump, which can be included in the boiler package or purchased separately. If the area of the house exceeds 150 m², additional pumping equipment is installed in manifold cabinets.

It should be noted that when installing several floor heating circuits, it is advisable to install two collectors - one for the supply of coolant, and the other for its intake.

At the same time, at each outlet from the collector, an installation must be made stopcocks, which will allow disconnecting individual circuits from the system.

To eliminate the need to drain the coolant from the system during the repair work, shut-off valves are installed at the inlet and outlet of the boiler.

When the "warm water floor" system under the laminate is fully assembled and connected to the collector, all that remains is to connect the collector pipes to the pipes of the heating boiler.

The piping of the heating boiler must be carried out in accordance with the drawing, and the pipelines must be connected using factory parts.

Video: Tying a wall-mounted boiler

The correct design of a warm floor on the ground is as follows:

Remove fertile soil, remove all debris and stones. Level and compact the remaining soil. This must be done very carefully, and verified by the level. This is the basis for all subsequent materials.
A layer of compacted sand (level). Any sand is taken for filling. The main thing is to compact it well and level it again.
A layer of expanded clay or crushed stone (crushed stone is preferable due to lower thermal conductivity). Fraction - small or medium. We compact for a long time and persistently until it becomes almost a monolith.
Pre-stretch. There are two options here:
- Spill crushed stone and sand with a liquid solution (sand + cement in a ratio of 2: 1).
- Fill in the black screed. The desired thickness of this layer is 5-7cm. And for reliability, lay a reinforcing mesh of metal wire 3 mm, with a cell of 10 * 10 cm. Such a subfloor is more reliable. It will withstand heavy loads.
After everything has set and the concrete has hardened, a layer of waterproofing is laid. If the primer is dry, this is usually a polyethylene film, preferably 200 mn in two coats.
Styrofoam plates (glue the joints with adhesive tape so that the solution does not leak).
A layer of metallized waterproofing (not foil, but metallized).
Underfloor heating fixing system and heating tubes, cables, etc.
Underfloor heating screed, preferably reinforced.

The thickness of all layers of the underfloor heating cake on the ground depends on the region: the colder, the more. In the south, it can be 2-5 cm, but the further north, the more massive layers are required. Each of them is well compacted and leveled. You can use manual rammers, but mechanical ones are much more effective.

Particular attention should be paid to the heat insulator. It is recommended to use expanded polystyrene in plates, its density is not lower than 35 kg / m 3. For the northern regions, it can be 10 cm or more. If the thickness of the thermal insulation is large (extruded polystyrene foam), it is advisable to use two layers of boards. And lay them so that the seams of the lower layer overlap with the slab lying on top. Glue the joints of each layer with tape.

The choice of thermal insulation is a key moment in the organization of a warm floor

Process technology at high groundwater levels

If the groundwater is high, the correct sequence of layers is not everything. You need to get the water out somehow.

If the depth of laying the underfloor heating layers turned out to be lower than the level of soil water, drainage is necessary. For him, at least 30 cm below the required level, we make a system for draining water. It is advisable to pour river sand, but such volumes cost a lot, so you can use other rocks, but not peat or black soil. As an option - excavated soil mixed with crushed stone.

When laying heat-insulating plates, their joints must be glued with adhesive tape - so the solution will not flow into the cracks

The selected material is poured in layers of 10 cm, each of which is compacted and spilled with water. Layers are usually made three, but more can be. On compacted sand or soil with crushed stone, we lay a layer of geotextile. This is a modern material that will allow water to pass down and prevent different materials from mixing. It is not damaged by insects and animals, has high tensile strength. Also, geotextiles additionally equalize the mechanical loads that the floor will experience.

At the same stage, you need to take care of both the hydro and thermal insulation of the floor from the foundation. You can use bituminous mastic or other modern and reliable waterproofing materials and impregnations for these purposes. And the thermal insulation is standard: the inner perimeter of the foundation is covered with expanded polystyrene plates.

Then there are layers of sand and gravel, and a rough screed is poured on them. Spilling with a liquid cement-sand composition in this case is undesirable. A rough screed is needed for reliability. After it dries, a layer of waterproofing should be applied. With a high level of groundwater, it is better to use not polyethylene, but welded waterproofing or polymer membranes. They are more reliable, although they are more expensive.

Further, all layers, as previously recommended: a heat insulator, a metal-coated hydrobarrier, and fasteners with (or, for example). All this is covered with a metal reinforcing mesh and filled with another layer of mortar. And then - depending on the one used.

Results

Underfloor heating in a house on the ground is a rather complicated design. In order for it to be reliable, a rough screed is needed. If for some reason it is not possible to make a screed, you can, in extreme cases, get by with tamping the layers.

There are different installation methods panel heating. One of them is a warm floor on the ground. The peculiarity is that such heating is done during the construction of the building, and not subsequently its operation, due to the desire to modernize housing.

Having planned to make a warm floor on the ground in a private house, you should break all the work into two stages: a rough screed is poured onto the lower layers, then all the other layers of the cake are laid out. This is an iron rule for laying, dictated by the possible shrinkage of the soil.

The design of the warm floor, which is laid in the premises, resembles a kind of "pie", since it consists of several layers.

Pouring a warm floor on the ground directly depends on the characteristics of the soil. It must meet certain requirements and standards.

So, The groundwater should be no higher than 5–6 meters from the level of the upper layer. It is important that the soil of the site does not have a high value of friability and airiness. That's why it's not allowed construction works on sandstones and black earth. It is also important to take into account the load that will fall on the structure during operation. The floor arrangement must provide the following:

reliable thermal insulation of the room;
prevent groundwater from flooding the premises;
eliminate external noise;
prevent the penetration of water vapor;
ensure the comfort of residents.

Water heated floor on the ground

Panel heating design is the perfect solution for living rooms and working premises with a large area (more than 20 m2). Here you can use electric heating or water. In small rooms (bathroom, balcony or loggia), it is quite difficult to place pipes. Therefore, the use of electric underfloor heating is allowed (and even recommended). As a rule, everyone strives to provide comfort in the first place. large rooms. It is worth considering the water floor on the ground, its features.

It's important to know! In high-rise buildings, it is prohibited to lay a water panel heating system together with a centralized heat source. This is due to the depressurization of the system, the introduction of additional resistances in the project calculated in advance, which will interfere with correct operation.

Based on this, it should be understood that to connect heating, it is worth considering the presence of an autonomous heat source. And for this you need to contact the relevant state structures for permission.

There are several methods for installing water systems. But for each of them you need to provide the following:

When laying on the ground, it is worth taking care of organizing a kind of “cushion”. The first layer of sand is laid (thickness 5-7 cm), then comes the stone fine fraction(layer thickness - 8–10 cm).
The second stage is waterproofing. Almost everything can be used available materials. Suitable bituminous rubber or bitumen-polymer mastic. Alternatively, a pasting type can be used. This option has reinforcement in the form of fiberglass.
You can not do without thermal insulation. You can use polystyrene foam. The thickness of this layer is variable and depends on the calculations being carried out.
You can use an additional layer of thermal insulation roll type foil coated (this is an auxiliary design, so this step can be skipped).
Laying underfloor heating pipes on the ground.
A screed is made over the pipeline. Reinforcing it with a mesh will also be required. The height of such a structure, together with heating elements should be 50–70 mm. This is done to quickly warm up the coating. Reinforcement is carried out over the design of the warm floor. This is done in order to evenly distribute the load on the system.
Finish coating. Here it is allowed to use materials that are not amenable to thermal effects. floor system heating.

The main mistakes when installing a warm floor on the ground

How to make a floor screed on the ground for a warm floor

The current methods of installing a concrete screed on the ground are divided, as a rule, into 4 main stages:

preparatory work;
pouring concrete screed;
plane processing;
cake sealing.

Of particular importance is the layered structure of the cake. It includes the following:

base (it must be compacted before performing subsequent work);
fine sand;
crushed stone;
waterproofing layer;
primary concrete coating;
steam protection;
panel or roll insulation;
finishing concrete screed with reinforcement.

Preparatory work begins with leveling. This will determine the level of the soil and the floor of the future building. The soil must be compacted through the use of special units.

The waterproofing layer can be made of membrane materials. The only requirement for it is integrity. Otherwise, damage may be fraught with flooding. The maximum tightness of the layer will be achieved by overlapping it with fastening the parts with mounting tape.

The rough screed is made of lean concrete with an admixture of fine crushed stone. To such a surface do not extend special requirements. By the way, it can have differences in height up to 4 mm.

Insulation of floors on the ground involves the use quality materials. Ideally, this layer should perform the function of not only thermal insulation, but also protect the room from water penetration. This will allow in more protect your home from floods.

Installation of the finishing screed is carried out in several steps.

Important! Reinforcement directly depends on the design loads on the warm floor.

With a small value, you can use the road grid. If the expected loads are large enough, then it is recommended to use a frame made of iron rods with a diameter of 8 mm.

At the end of the work, the installation of guide beacons and finishing pouring cement-concrete mix. The final step is leveling the floor.

Heat loss through the floor on the ground. How to make a calculation?

Heat losses through the floor structure are calculated a little differently than through other enclosing structures. Before laying heating, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the method of their determination.

The whole plane is divided into zones certain size. There are 4 in total:

The horizontal component of zone I is 2 m from the wall. Vertical component - thickness bearing wall that needs to be insulated. It is 1.5 m.
Zone II is another 2 meters of floor. The area starts directly from zone I to the center of the room for which the calculation is carried out.
Zone III - the next 2 meters. This area originates from zone II.
And zone IV is the remaining floor area of the room.

After a sketch is drawn. If the room is small, then the conditional division may not be 4, but 2-3 zones. Next, the thermal resistance is determined for each region.

The regulatory literature says that it should be equal to 2.1 m2 ° C / W. To ensure this indicator, you need to know the thermal conductivity of each layer of the cake. The second area has a standard resistance of 4.3 m2°C/W. The third is 8.6, and the fourth is 14.2.

After defining thermal resistance for each zone, you need to immediately calculate the area. In addition, you should know the difference in temperature between outdoor and indoor air. For the calculated value, it is worth taking the temperature of the coldest five-day period.

After that, heat losses are calculated, guided by the formula:

Q = S*T/R, where:
Q - heat loss, W
S is the estimated area of each zone, m2
R – thermal resistance of the enclosing structure, m2°С/W
T is the temperature difference.

When the calculation of heat losses for each floor zone is completed, you need to calculate the total value for the entire room. To do this, you need to add the results obtained for each section.

Underfloor heating cake on the ground: laying features

The earthen base on which the heating will be mounted must be prepared. To do this, the soil is leveled, the top layer is compacted. If necessary, a layer of backfill is laid on the ground. It consists of crushed stone or gravel. Most often, the material of the middle fraction is used. It prevents capillary penetration ground water into the room. The need for laying such a "pillow" arises only in the case high level ground water.

The rough screed layer, which was mentioned above, also has certain nuances. The thickness should be between 50 and 100 mm. Used brand of concrete - M100 or M200. It is advisable to reinforce the sole in the case when the soil was poorly compacted. Also, its use is justified in the case when there are discrepancies in the density of the base.

Advice. In the presence of pits or trenches, reinforcement is necessary element pirogue.

A rough screed for underfloor heating on the ground in a private house can be laid on floors basements. This is done in order to level the plane. The thickness of such a layer should not be less than 3 cm.

There is also such a phenomenon as a dry screed. Its use has gained popularity due to the fact that there are no wet concrete works. It is advisable to use technology only for arranging a rough screed.

When laying a warm floor on the ground, you should also take care of the deformation layer. Help here damper tape. The material will negate the likelihood of a thermal bridge. It also compensates for the load generated by heating concrete pavement. This prevents the screed from expanding and cracking. The damper tape is laid on all sides of the external enclosing structures. But this is done only after applying the plaster and preparatory work for fine finish building.

The installation of a warm floor in itself is considered a complex engineering task. If the floor is in direct contact with the ground and serves as part of a liquid heating system, the likelihood of making a mistake increases significantly. Today we will talk about both the materials used and the phased device.

Laying a warm floor on the ground refers to complex engineering measures. This means that the contractor is responsible not only for the efficiency and long life of the heating system, but also for the normal behavior of the flooring under cyclic heating conditions. Therefore, act consistently and strictly follow the device technology recommendations.

Which pipes are suitable for underfloor heating

The first thing to do is to decide on the type of heat-conducting tubes. While the issue with the acquisition of the desired type of product is being resolved, you will have time to carry out all the necessary preparatory work. In addition, you will know from the outset the system for fixing the pipes, and you will provide everything necessary for this.

So, let's start with the rejection of pipes that do not have such a purpose as use in underfloor heating systems. Here we include metal-plastic polyethylene pipes connected by a system of press fittings and PPR pipes for soldering plastic plumbing. The former do not perform well in terms of reliability, the latter do not conduct heat well and have high coefficients of thermal expansion.

Initially, a convenient and reliable mounting system for temporary pipe fastening is selected. It could be reinforcing mesh, to which the pipes will be tied with wire, but imagine installing in this way on an area of 100 m 2 or if suddenly several ties come off during the pouring of concrete. Therefore, a mounting underlay or rail system must be used. They are attached to the floor base while the pipes are not yet laid, then the pipes are fixed in the guides with clips or click-clamps.

The mounting system itself can be plastic or metal. There is not much difference in this, the only thing you need to pay attention to is how reliable the fixation is and whether the guides themselves can damage the pipes.

Finally, we decide on the material of the pipes. There are two types of products recommended for use in underfloor heating systems. For both, the mounting technology eliminates the influence of the human factor when bending and connecting.

Copper. Despite the increased cost, copper tubing is easy to install, soldering requires a bottle of flux and gas-burner. Copper performs best in systems of "fast" underfloor heating, which works in parallel with radiators, but not on a permanent basis. bend copper tubes are carried out according to the template, respectively, their break is extremely unlikely.

Polyethylene. This is a more common class of pipes. Polyethylene is practically not subject to fracture, but a special crimping tool is required for installation. Polyethylene may have different density, not less than 70% is recommended. The presence of an internal oxygen barrier is also important: polyethylene poorly resists diffuse penetration of gases, at the same time, water in a pipe of this length can entrain oxygen from the external environment in significant volumes.

Soil preparation

When installing a warm floor on the ground, a “pie” is prepared, the thickness and filling of which are determined individually. But these data are important already at the first stage of work, in order to deepen the earthen floor if necessary and not sacrifice the height of the room.

In general, the soil is removed 30–35 cm below the level of the planned floor covering, taken as the zero point. The surface is carefully leveled horizontal plane, the geotextile layer is backfilled with incompressible material, in most cases, PGS is used for this.

After careful manual tamping of the bedding, preparation is carried out with low-grade concrete. For additional thermal insulation, this layer may consist of lightweight expanded clay concrete. It is important that the surface be brought out into a common plane located below the zero mark by the thickness of the cake plus about 10–15 mm more.

The choice of insulation

A floor pie with water heating consists of a heater tightly sandwiched between two layers of cement-sand screed. A fairly narrow range of requirements is imposed on the insulation itself.

Mainly compressive strength is normalized. Extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 3% or more is ideal, as well as PIR and PUR boards as more fireproof. If desired, you can use mineral wool slabs of brand 225 according to GOST 9573–96. Cotton wool is often abandoned due to the complexity of its installation and the need to cover the insulation with a hydrobarrier (polyamide film). It is characteristic that minimum thickness plate is 40 mm, while when installing a reflective screen made of XPS, the thickness of the latter rarely exceeds 20-25 mm.

Foam polymer materials also serve as a good barrier to moisture migrating from the soil; they do not require a waterproofing device. Many may be put off by the questionable safety of styrene-containing material or the price of more expensive boards with complete chemical inertness (PUR and PIR).

The thickness of the insulation is determined thermotechnical calculation. If the preparation used concrete with expanded clay as a filler, 10-15 mm XPS or 60 mm mineral wool will be sufficient. In the absence of insulated preparation, these values \u200b\u200bshould be increased by 50%.

Preparatory and accumulating screeds

It is very important that the insulation is tightly clamped between two ties and that any movement or vibration of it is excluded. The concrete preparation of the floor is leveled with a preparatory screed, then insulation boards are glued onto it using tile adhesive under the comb. All joints are sealed with glue. If used mineral wool, concrete preparation must first be covered with a layer of penetrating waterproofing.

The screed layer above the insulation should be so thick that its total thermal conductivity is at least 3-4 times lower than that of the thermal screen. In general, the thickness of the screed is about 1.5–2 cm from the final height of the ceilings, but you can freely “play” with this value to adjust the inertia of the warm floor. The main thing is to change the thickness of the insulation accordingly.

The top layer of the screed, subjected to heating, is poured after the walls are enclosed with a damper tape. The filling of the accumulative screed can, for convenience, be carried out in two stages. On the first one, about 15–20 mm are poured with reinforcement with a rare mesh. It is convenient to move along the resulting plane and fix the pipe installation system, the remainder is poured to the zero level minus the thickness of the floor covering.

1 - compacted soil; 2 - sand and gravel bedding; 3 - preparatory reinforced screed; 4 - hydrovapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 - reinforcing mesh; 7 - floor heating pipes; eight - cement-sand screed; 9 - flooring; 10 - damper tape

System installation, proportions and loop pitch

The laying of underfloor heating pipes should be carried out according to a scheme previously thought out and drawn on the floor. If the room has a shape other than rectangular, its plan is divided into several rectangles, each of which is represented by a separate loop loop.

The same principle applies to floor zoning. For example, in play area tubes can be laid with more frequent steps, and it is advisable not to lay them under cabinet furniture at all. In each individual loop rectangular shape, depending on the priority of heating, the tubes can be laid either in a snake or a snail, or a combination of options. General rule simple: the farther a specific point is from the beginning of the duct, the lower its temperature, on average, there is a drop of 1.5–2.5 ºС every 10 meters, respectively, optimal length loop is in the range of 50–80 meters.

The minimum distance between adjacent tubes is determined by the manufacturer according to the allowable bending radius. A denser gasket is possible according to the “snail” scheme or with the formation of wide loops at the edges of the snake. It is optimal to adhere to a distance equal to 20–30 values of the tube diameter. You also need to make allowances for the thickness of the storage screed and the desired floor heating rate.

The mounting system is attached along the route of laying through the insulation to the layer concrete preparation, respectively, the length of fasteners (usually plastic BM dowels) should be 50% more distance to the surface of the preparatory screed.

When laying the pipe, you should consider an improvised spool for unwinding, otherwise the pipe will constantly twist and break. When all loops are fastened in mounting system, they are checked high pressure and, if the test results are satisfactory, pour upper layer accumulating screed.

Inclusion of a warm floor in the heating system

It is recommended to lay whole pipe sections without joints in the screed layer. The tails of the loops can be reduced either to local collectors, or lead directly to the boiler room. The latter option is usually convenient when the heated floor is a little far from the boiler or if all rooms have a common corridor, which needs indirect heating.

The ends of the pipes are rolled with an expander and connected by crimping or soldering with threaded fittings for connection to a manifold assembly. Each outlet is supplied shutoff valves, on the supply tubes are installed Ball Valves with a red flywheel, on the return line - with a blue one. A threaded transition with shutoff valves is required for emergency shutdown a separate loop, its purge or flushing.

An example of a scheme for connecting a water heated floor to a heating system: 1 - a heating boiler; 2- expansion tank; 3 - security group; 4 - collector; 5 - circulation pump; 6 - manifold cabinet for heating radiators; 7 - manifold cabinet of underfloor heating

The connection of collectors to the heating main is carried out by analogy with heating radiators, two-pipe and combined schemes inclusions. In addition to the thermostat, the collector units can be equipped with recirculation systems that maintain a comfortable temperature of the coolant in the supply at about 35–40 ºС.

http://www.rmnt.ru/ - website RMNT.ru