How to sheathe a bath with eurolining. How to sheathe a bath with clapboard inside: stages and sheathing technology. Interior decoration of the bath clapboard - work procedure

From time immemorial, not only the Slavs, but also the Finnish, Ugric and even nomadic tribes have made a considerable contribution to the creation, which eventually began to be called "Russian bath". In those days, the technology was very simple: a massive frame was used, which did not have any heaters inside. In our technological world, this option is not very practical, since it will take a significant amount of firewood and a lot of time to heat the bath. Once upon a time, wood was the cheapest material - now it is no longer so. A modern bath is easier to sheathe. There is enough information and photos for this. How to make it inexpensive and beautiful? This will be discussed further.

Quick Guide to Material Selection

What lining for the bath to use and is it needed at all? An important question for owners of steam rooms. Let's first understand what functions it performs. The main task of the sheathing is to reduce the consumption of heat energy and reduce the burning time from 4 to 1-1.5 hours. Although, perhaps, this does not apply to baths, competently built according to old technologies - from a single bar. In this case, no heaters are required. However, the construction costs will be completely different.

So, when choosing a material, first of all, you need to think about the properties that it should have. Of course, it must be non-flammable, vapor-resistant and, of course, harmless to your health. It is not recommended to use non-natural materials for cladding the internal walls of the bath.

The favorite material for interior decoration is lining, a little less often they prefer a block house that is spectacular in its appearance, or only magnelite that is developing on the market. What do you prefer anyway? Let's consider all the options in more detail.

Clapboard lining

Lining among builders is associated with beauty, practicality and reasonable cost. High quality wall paneling partially regulates the air humidity in the steam room, prevents the appearance of fungal mold and condensate, and allows the walls to "breathe".

Advice. There is a little secret when choosing a lining, which can significantly reduce the cost of its purchase. Very often, on the building materials market, lining up to 1.5 m long is much cheaper than from 2 m and above. And sheathing a bath with a material of this length is quite simple - you just need to make a rail in the middle.

Most often, lining is preferable for finishing the interior of the bath, as it has a number of undoubted advantages:

1. Saves heat. Lining significantly reduces heat leakage, respectively, and the amount of firewood used (electricity, gas).
2. It gives the room an aesthetic appearance, hiding communications and uneven finishes.
3. Prevents the formation of dampness.
4. Long serves.

You should also seriously approach the choice of wood for lining, because the level of reliability of the material and the degree of financial costs depend on it.

• Linden- ideal for a steam room. The essential oils it secretes have a disinfecting, anti-inflammatory effect. It enhances perspiration without burning the skin and respiratory tract due to low thermal conductivity.
• A less financially costly alternative to linden will be aspen. It draws out diseases from the body, is not subject to decay after prolonged contact with water. This tree is very soft, it is cut without problems.
• The best option for shower walls will be larch. It has a positive effect on well-being, increases resistance to infections. And floors from this tree will be exclusively strong and reliable. Even various small rodents and a bug will not be afraid of them.
• The leader in strength among tree species is undoubtedly white stock. It is even stronger than oak and will only get stronger with time. Acacia is not subject to deformation and decay. Products made from this wood will be very durable and wear-resistant, so acacia is perfect for finishing doors and floors in a steam room.

Choosing a block house

Block house for a bath - the best combination of price and quality. This material is so close in its external characteristics to a log house that it is almost impossible to distinguish a bath sheathed with a block house from a log one. This material undergoes special drying, so it is not afraid of deformation or cracks. But periodic (once every few years) bactericidal treatment is still desirable.

There is a classification of a block house according to the degree of quality:

• Class "C" - low quality material, processed only superficially. Various kinds of deformations are allowed (cracks, bark remnants, etc.);
• Class "B" - medium quality block house, allowing only a limited amount of deformation (small cracks, knots up to 3 cm, etc.);
• Class "A" - perfectly processed material, without any irregularities (with the exception of small knots - up to 3 cm);
• "Extra" class - the highest level of material quality with perfect surface finish.

For the interior decoration of the bath, a block house of the last two classes is recommended. As a material for the block house, hardwood and softwood are used, with the exception of spruce and pine (since they have high thermal conductivity and can cause burns when touched).

Advice. In no case should you use chipboard and fiberboard in a steam room, since they release toxins when heated.

MAGELAN

A self-confident newcomer to the building materials market is a glass-magnesium sheet. It is made from fine wood shavings, magnesium and other components reinforced with fiberglass mesh. This is an acceptable, but not the best material for interior decoration. However, certain advantages of this material cannot be denied:

1. Immune to temperature changes and burning.
2. Does not rot and is immune to moisture
3. Easy to mount.

In this material, we have introduced you to the possible options for finishing the interior of the bath, ranging from natural wood to modern materials. Now, knowing about the advantages of certain materials, it will be easier for you to make a choice depending on your wishes and financial capabilities.

What not to sheathe a bath: video

How to sheathe a bath: photo

Wood is a material that has long been used for facing baths and saunas. It is there that the tree reveals its properties in the best way - the ability to create a microclimate and perfectly retain heat.

In truth, there is simply no alternative to wood for use in humid and hot environments. Accordingly, it is better to sheathe the bath from the inside with a wooden clapboard. Below is the technology for the phased lining of the bath with clapboard inside.

Finishing the lining of a bath or sauna has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account even at the stage of selecting wood.

When choosing lining for facing the bath, you need to consider:

• high temperature;
• temperature fluctuations (differences);
• humidity level;
• budget.

What lining to choose for a bath

Selection criteria are determined by the characteristics and properties of lumber:

1. Board type

For finishing with a pair of wooden clapboard, it is better to give preference to eurolining.

• Firstly, because it has a large groove-tooth system (the length of the ridge reaches 8 mm).

• Secondly, because it is guaranteed to have compensation slots on the back of the lamella, which contributes to the ventilation of the coating and prevents possible cracking of the lamella.

• Thirdly, because the lining is already pre-treated with wood protection products that can be used in the bath.

2. Variety of lining

For a steam room, only the first or highest (elite) grade of wood is suitable in which there are no knots, wormholes, etc. Please note that even live knots can gradually fall out under the influence of temperature changes.

3. Type of wood

To understand which lining for a bath is better, you need to know the characteristics of each breed. We will not review all the breeds available on the market, but will focus on those recommended by professionals.

Finishing clapboard baths can be made of hardwood and coniferous wood. The choice depends on the purpose of the bath room: steam room, dressing room, washing room, shower room, as well as on the properties of the wood itself.

The most popular material for a steam room in a bath or sauna is hardwood lining. Their common advantage is that the wood does not heat up in the sauna, and cannot cause burns when touched, and is also resistant to moisture.

Lining linden for a bath

The most popular for saunas and baths is linden lining. The advantages of this wood are the ability to create a special microclimate. From a utilitarian point of view, an undoubted argument in favor of lime lining will be the strength of the rock, resistance to drying out, as well as the beautiful color and structure of the wood. Linden is considered an energy donor.

Aspen lining for a bath

The second most popular place for baths is occupied by aspen lining. Aspen wood is beautiful, soft and easy to work with. The peculiarity of the breed is that over time, aspen lining becomes only stronger.

Aspen is also good because it provides easy care for lining in the steam room. It is enough to lightly sand it when it starts to darken. And popular belief says that aspen draws negative energy from a person.

Lining from an alder for a bath

In third place was an alder lining. From a medical point of view, alder is good because it contains tannins. The wood of this breed is hygroscopic, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. However, the high cost hinders its ubiquitous distribution.

Note. Lining made of linden, aspen, alder is usually sold in short pieces. Commercial length up to 3 m. This should be taken into account when planning the finishing of the bath and making the calculation of the material.

Oak lining for a bath

The most expensive and difficult to process material is oak lining for a bath. But it does not rot, does not lose its properties and can be installed in a sauna without the slightest additional processing. Unfortunately, all this is not available to everyone due to the high cost of oak lining.

A similar situation is with ash clapboard - a very expensive and rare lumber for bath sheathing.

A common disadvantage of hardwood lining is that it loses color over time and needs to be protected.

Conifers are rarely used in the steam room. Because the resin that the lining of coniferous species (pine, spruce) emits makes it practically unsuitable for use in a steam room. They are more suitable for washing and dressing rooms. This is facilitated by indicators such as resistance to moisture and low price. In addition, coniferous lining is easier to process, has a beautiful structure and a rich palette of shades, allows you to veneer rounded shapes and does not need additional processing (with the exception of deresining). Often a pleasant coniferous aroma also becomes an argument in favor of lining from needles.

Do-it-yourself sheathing of a bath with clapboard inside

Ways of fastening lining

The first step is to choose a method of fastening the lining. There is no unequivocal answer on how to properly fix the lining in the bath, horizontally or vertically (along or across). Each master defends his point of view. But summarizing their statements and user reviews, we can draw conclusions regarding the ways of laying the lining.

Laying lining along has become more widespread due to the relative simplicity, convenience and high speed of work, and due to this, the lower cost of installation. Moisture (condensate) easily flows down the vertically arranged lamellas. But, by the way, it also easily rises up the microcapillaries that make up the wood. With this fastening, the tongue-and-groove system is more protected from water ingress.

The vertical fastening of the lining allows more heat to be accumulated inside the steam room, again, because the horizontal fastening of the crate timber interferes with the free movement of air. Experts note that vertical cladding is justified for saunas with their dry steam regime.

Laying the lining across has advantages in view of the fact that the board is fastened with a spike up, which means that water ingress is also unlikely, as with vertical. With a horizontal fastening of the lining, a vertical frame (crate) is equipped, which contributes to the natural circulation of air between the panels and the wall.

Another argument in favor of the horizontal laying of the lining in the bath (steam room) is the ease of replacing the boards below. The fact is that the floor in the bath is not just a wet place, but a wet place. Naturally, the lower boards are subject to more rapid decay than the upper ones. Replacing several bottom boards is easier than cutting off the bottom of all vertical ones. In addition, shrinkage from constant temperature changes is more noticeable on a vertical mount. The horizontal method of fastening the lining is better for those who have a classic wet Russian bath.

Based on the foregoing, everyone can decide for himself how to fix the lining in the bath - vertically or horizontally.

Finishing the sauna with clapboard provides for the device of the crate. This is due to the fact that the presence of the crate makes it possible to insulate the sauna.

If there is no such need, then air circulates freely between the frame, condensate drains, the likelihood of rotting of the lining, the appearance of fungus and mold on the walls is reduced.

The crate for the lining for the bath is made only from a bar, which is covered with a primer. The use of galvanized profiles for drywall is unacceptable.

The crate in the bath makes it possible to organize the wiring in the steam room. For example, under the lamps.

Note. To protect against moisture, the wires are laid in a metal corrugation.

The internal insulation of the bath consists of several layers. Insulation in such a wet room needs special fastening.

To begin with, waterproofing is laid on the wall. It can be nailed to the wall or fixed with battens.

Cotton wool is placed between the bars of the crate. By the way, cut with an overlap of 10 mm. cotton wool will tightly settle between the frame beam and will be securely fixed in them. A foil vapor barrier film is laid on top of the cotton wool, which reflects heat. The vapor barrier is fixed with a stapler to the beams of the crate.

The film is overlapped and must be glued with aluminum tape. Next, narrow slats are stuffed, the so-called counter-rail. Boards up to 20 mm thick are used for the countertop. The purpose of the countertop is to provide a ventilation gap between the lining and the vapor barrier.

A simpler option is to use foil-coated basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining (also with a gap).

An important condition for full functioning is ventilation in the bath.

Therefore, when installing the crate and laying the insulation, do not forget to mark a place for ventilation holes.

It is preferable to use an aluminum corrugation with a diameter of 100 mm as an air duct. We remind you that for effective ventilation in the bath, you need to place one hole under the ceiling, and the second at a height of 150-300 mm from the floor. Preferably next to the stove.

Note. Ventilation openings should be placed in accessible places in order to be able to regulate the flow of air.

Only non-combustible heat-insulating material is used in the sauna. That is why the use of foam is excluded. It is better to give preference to basalt wool.

Installation of lining in the steam room

Fastening the lining in the bath is done exclusively by a hidden method. Experts attribute this to three factors:

• Firstly, the hardware, twisted through, heats up and there is a risk of getting unpleasant sensations while touching the attachment point.

• Secondly, rough hardware can rust and ruin the lining surface.

• Thirdly, such a mount looks somewhat primitive and affects the appearance of the room.

Hidden fastening methods include the use of nails, clamps or self-tapping screws. Regarding self-tapping screws, it should be noted additionally that the self-tapping screw can be twisted from the front side of the board, however, it must be closed with a wooden plug.

This method is quite laborious, so users are advised to fix the wooden lining with their own hands using nails and kleimers.

How to sheathe the ceiling in the bath clapboard

Finishing the steam room, as well as other rooms of the bath, starts from the ceiling. This is due to the fact that large thermal gaps are left on the ceiling, and the wall lamellas must rest against the ceiling.

Installation of wooden lining on the ceiling begins from the side of the entrance and is carried out only on nails or kleimer. And the point here is not even in the visual effect, but in the fact that the finishing nail is not able to withstand the weight of the ceiling from the lining.

The boards that are nailed last are difficult to “plant” on the kleimer or drive a nail into the groove. In this case, he uses a finishing (hidden) nail that does not have a hat. In order not to damage the front surface of the lining, the nail should be finished with a finisher. And the installation site of the nail is cleaned with sandpaper to avoid the appearance of roughness and, as a result, a splinter.

It is important that the ends of the lining are located at a distance of 40-50 mm from the wall of the bath. This is due to the fact that under the ceiling there is a higher temperature and the lamellas “play” more. And also with the need to leave a ventilation gap for air circulation through the wall.

How to sheathe the walls in the bath clapboard

Wall decoration with clapboard starts from the corner of the room (steam room, sauna) and is implemented similarly to the installation of clapboard on the ceiling.

When installing, it should be noted that water can rise through the wood to a height of up to half a meter with a vertical mount and half as low with a horizontal mount. Therefore, at a height of 10-30 mm. a gap is left from the floor, which will protect the lower boards from rotting.

How to make a gap between the lining?

Execution technology: the next board is driven into the previous one until it stops. Then several marks are made along the seam lines (preferably not with a pencil, but with a sharp object). Then the board moves relative to the previous and intended marks. Since the lamella moves by eye, each subsequent board must be checked with a level.

Advice. Mounting the lining on the wall will look more beautiful if you withstand the docking of the boards on the ceiling and wall.

The upper ends of the boards adjoin the ceiling closely.

Fixing skirting boards for wall paneling and decorative elements

Plinth, corners, other accessories for finishing the sauna can not be "planted" on the glue. For their fastening, only finishing nails are used, followed by grinding of the installation site.

How to sheathe a doorway with clapboard

Doorways are given special attention. The slopes in them are finished with the help of lining, cut to the desired length. And the openings themselves are framed with platbands.

How to sheathe clapboard slopes on windows

Directly in paired windows they are rarely equipped, more often they are made in a dressing room or washing room. In any case, it will not be superfluous to know how to make slopes from lining.

In order to simplify the installation of the lining, professionals advise installing a slope in the window opening using the starting bar for the plastic lining. Then the wooden lamella is inserted into the bar with one end, and the second is attached to the crate beam. This framing method is ideal in its simplicity, and is suitable for those who install metal-plastic windows in the bath. But, it should be remembered that the thickness of the starting profile is 10 mm.

The second installation option is to install a frame for the slope, lining it with clapboard and then decorating the place where the clapboard adjoins the window with decorative strips.

This method of finishing the slopes with clapboard is best used by those who have wooden windows installed in the bath.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Finishing washing in the bath clapboard

Installation of lining in a washing room is carried out similarly to installation in a steam room, but it should be remembered that the bottom boards or ends of the boards during vertical laying should be at least 30 mm apart. from the floor.

Users note that plastic panels and PVC lining have proven themselves well in the interior of the washing room. Wood decor allows you to create the desired design and at the same time ensure long-term operation of the finish. Ceramic tiles and tiles also look great in the sink.

How to sheathe the dressing room of the bath with clapboard

The dressing room is designed to leave your things in it and take a break after soaring. In more modern versions of the bath, the dressing room serves as a rest room in which furniture and appliances are installed. Due to the fact that this room is not much different from any other in the house, the installation of the lining does not differ in features.

Due to flammability, lining near the furnace firebox is not mounted. It is better to finish the furnace place with brick, stone, in extreme cases, sheet metal or other non-combustible materials.

Installation of lining near the sauna heater

But the heater (the place where stones traditional for the Russian bath are stacked) is not only possible, but necessary to finish the lining. Moreover, preference should be given to hardwood lining. Due to the fact that wood heats up less than stone, the wood finish of the heater will protect sauna users from thermal burns.

Now you are familiar with how the lining is installed in separate rooms of the bath, you know how to fix the lining in the bath correctly. So, there are no obstacles to finishing the bath with a wooden clapboard with your own hands.

The fact is that even a steam room made of solid timber or logs is often additionally sheathed with wood. This is a consequence of the insulation work. That is, the insulation in the final must be covered with decorative material, for example, a blockhouse or lining. And what about the baths, not built of wood? There are no options - the sheathing of the steam room of the bath becomes mandatory.

Sheath material options

And there are not so many of them. The steam room should not be trimmed with anything made of artificial materials, plastics, for example. Therefore, only a tree remains, and with it everything is also quite simple - you can sheathe a bath steam room with a simple clapboard, either with a blockhouse, or with an imitation of a bar. It becomes more interesting when we start choosing wood.

Which tree is better

In general, it would be worth recalling here again that in sauna hotter than in a Russian bath, so conifers immediately disappear, but for some, the resin begins to flow even at 40 degrees, so you can refuse conifers and in a Russian bath just in case. Specify the temperature, because they can offer cedar, hemlock (hemlock), larch.

Resin smudges

REMINDER, that larch is an exception among conifers. Although it contains resin in considerable quantities, it does not release it in the same way as pine, for example.

Leaves remain. Of these, the most sought after are aspen and Linden. Linden is loved for the fact that it changes volume little when moistened. This is especially good for doors that keep opening and closing in wet conditions.

The second advantage of these types of wood is that they cost inexpensive. Because they are widespread and easy to handle.

BY THE WAY! Linden is a very soft tree that can be cut with a simple knife.

Pro aspen almost the same can be said. In addition, aspen quickly turns gray and darkens in the steam room if left untreated.

Aspen darkens from water

Nevertheless, we repeat, these are the breeds most commonly used in Russia, with which you can sheathe a steam room in a bathhouse. You can also mention oak and ash- they are much harder, depending on the density of the wood, but for the same reason they conduct more heat. There is also alder- it is also suitable for plating.

That's why you love it so much Abashi in a wig? They say that the tree practically does not heat up. And this is because its density is low, it is a very light tree, one person can carry the trunk.

Here, by the way, Linden and aspen closest in density to Abashi, so they will completely replace this breed.

Oak on the wall - this is cool and expensive, and it is unlikely that a steam room of this size will get off with it, where you touch the walls. Therefore, it’s probably not worth worrying about someone getting burned by touching an oak wall 🙂

Let's summarize. What tree is better for a steam room in a bath? First, one that won't break your budget. Secondly, that which least deformed by moisture. Thirdly, which resists rot, insects and rodents. Interestingly, cheap linden corresponds to the first and second points, but not to the third, larch - to the second and third, but not to the first.

In other words, there is no ideal, therefore, which tree to sheathe the steam room in the bath will depend on your priorities.

Which clapboard is better to sheathe a steam room

Clapboard grade C

That is, there is already certainty with the material, it remains only to decide which clapboard is better to sheathe the steam room in the bath? Well, we have already shot higher in terms of wood species. Lining is made from any of the mentioned.

But there are differences that do not depend on the type of wood. it grade, dimensions, profiles.

Varieties divide products by quality. Top grade is "Extra" or premium, then comes very good quality grade A, then the average grade B and ends in horror grade C.

If the appearance of knots is unacceptable in the first of these, in the next - knots should be rare and not more than 7 mm in diameter, then further freedom becomes greater - these are cutting flaws that force finish the castle already in place, and storage flaws - from dents and cracks to the presence of blue (this is a fungus), and much more - lists of acceptable ones usually accompany the definition of a variety.

Of course lining of the worst quality is used where it is not visible at all. And this is not our option, because we are talking about the finishing of the steam room. The highest and grade A are suitable for it, perhaps grade B is somewhere, but there you need to be ready for significant improvements.

Hardwoods also have knots, but there are fewer of them, and there are breeds with virtually no knots.

ADVICE! It is advisable to check the purchased products personally, not particularly trusting the supplier.

Another division that, if not everyone, then many know about, is the division according to profiles into lining and lining, made according to Soviet GOSTs. It is clear that the euro is produced according to European standards, in particular, according to DIN 68126/86. At the same time, nothing prevents the Russian manufacturer from making its products according to this standard.

The Soviet GOST allows humidity up to 20%, which is fraught with warping of a board that is too thin, it has much lower requirements for hairiness and the number of knots, which makes such a lining lower in quality than eurolining (it has a moisture content in the range of 10-15%, which prevents it from deforming, the thorn-groove does not require refinement, the front side is smooth).

euro and non-euro

Besides they differ in profile design- the euro spike is larger, there are ventilation grooves on the back of the board.

Decorative profile differences made on the front side - this is the presence or absence of chamfers, a measure of their roundness, the severity of the seam between the boards. On sale you can find rounded Softline, Calm, Landhouse, Blockhouse, American" and etc.

Dimensions. The length of the board can freely vary from 30 cm to 6 m, with a size change step of 10 cm. The width and thickness also vary, but first it’s worth saying that narrower boards hold geometry better, that is, they are less prone to deformation, including including mechanical damage.

Thickness the most popular for interior decoration is a thickness of 12.5 mm, because in this case the ratio of "strength and mass" is optimal. Thicker slats are good for exterior finishes (15-20 mm thick).

Other options for how to sheathe wood

Block house

And as a matter of fact, there are no other options: a little higher, we just said that both “imitation of timber” and “blockhouse” are just types of lining, and she herself has a different name - "profile board".

However, let us clarify that "Calm"- this is an imitation of a bar. It is achieved by reducing the seam between the lamellae, that is, the tenon fully enters the groove, joining the protruding parts of the lamellae.

"Block house"- This is an imitation of a rounded log. It looks like a segment of a circle.

How to sheathe

In the articles about the insulation of the bath, we describe in detail the layers of the "pie" from which it is formed. Go through the materials, everything is painted there in groups - the latter, in turn, according to the material:,.

Here we recall the main thing and give more specifics on the question of “how to properly sheathe a steam room with clapboard in a bathhouse.”

The steam room is often insulated using specialized heat insulators, for example, special mineral wool for baths and saunas, which contains few binders that can evaporate when heated and harm human health.

In addition to heat insulators, it is also popular foil too. The scheme of the "pie" is as follows:

• first of all, a vapor-, waterproofing membrane is attached to the walls;
• then a crate is erected on it;
• then a heat insulator is inserted into its gaps;
• everything is closed with vapor and waterproofing, which can be used as foil or foil material - paper or foamed polyethylene;
• a new layer of crate is stuffed to form a ventilation gap;
• a lining is attached to the last crate.

Now we will not give arguments for and against the foil, about this too. Let's just say that instead, you can close the heat insulator with a membrane film.

And now the details of working with the lining.

There are two common ways to fasten its lamellas - by vertical or by horizontal. In the first case, the crate on the insulation is made in the form of horizontal strips, in the second - vertical.

Step such a crate - 50-60 cm vertically (depends on the width of the insulation minus a couple of cm so that it holds itself and does not fall out), horizontally - as desired, but in general the range for both 40-80 cm.

The lining is fastened directly to the battens of the crate, and since no one wants to see nails on the front side of the lining for both aesthetic and practical reasons (they will rust), it is fixed through the groove in any of the following ways:

• on small finishing nails or self-tapping screws;
• for clamps;
• for staples up to 40 mm long.

Here's a video right away for you, which demonstrates the fixation of the lining with brackets and air gun. Very fast and very high quality work:

Advantages and disadvantages of vertical mounting the following: if you have a Russian bath with high humidity, each of the lamellas is heated and moistened unevenly along its entire length, this is not good for the tree and leads to its damage. In addition, the connections are unprotected if water is directly spilled on the walls - it flows into the grooves.

But in sauna there is no high humidity (there is no more than 15%), so a vertical set of lining is quite acceptable. They usually do it for aesthetic reasons - so that the paired room looks more "slender" - it is illusoryly stretched in height.

Horizontal lining set can be called more traditional in every sense - and the original railway lining was fastened in this way, and it looks like laying a log or beam, in general, more familiar like that. But there are also advantages: each lamella is located in its own temperature “zone” and heats up evenly.

Baths in our time, in addition to wood, are built from different materials - it can be, for example, brick or gas silicate blocks. Nevertheless, natural wood has been and remains the traditional material for the construction and decoration of baths. Only she, thanks to her natural properties, is able to create a favorable microclimate in these specific rooms. Therefore, we can safely say that there is simply no reasonable alternative to this material for lining bath rooms.

Finishing a bath inside with a clapboard with your own hands is a completely doable operation, accessible even for a novice builder, if you know the sequence of work and follow the technological recommendations. There are, of course, their own peculiarities, nuances and subtleties associated both with the specifics of bath rooms, which must be borne in mind when choosing high-quality material and during installation work.

The choice of wooden lining for lining the bath inside

Wood intended for finishing bath rooms must endure conditions of high humidity, frequent and sudden changes in temperature. Therefore, when choosing a material for such purposes, it is necessary to rely on certain criteria, such as the type of wood, the type of board and the type of lining according to the shape of the profile.

For wall cladding, lining made of both coniferous and hardwood wood can be used, and the choice of material largely depends on which particular bath room it will be used in. For example, for a steam sauna or a Russian bath, hardwood is most often used, since when heated, it does not produce resinous secretions, which can easily be burned.

So, the most popular species for finishing bath rooms are cedar, alder, oak, ash, linden, as well as exotic wood of African abashi.

Illustration	Brief description of material properties
	Linden. Experts consider this material to be the most suitable for sheathing the walls of the steam room, so it is he who is most often used for this purpose. Linden has a porous structure, which means it has a low density, so the wood does not overheat at high temperatures in the steam room. Possessing therapeutic essential oils in its composition, when heated, wood releases them into the air, which is good for the prevention of respiratory diseases. Linden wood has practically no knots, has pleasant soft shades without sharp transitions. When the material is used in conditions of high humidity, this wood does not change color and aroma for a very long time. However, the porosity of linden is not only its advantage, but also its disadvantage, as it absorbs moisture well. Therefore, the room, lined with linden clapboard, must be equipped with good ventilation and left for airing after completion of water procedures.
	Aspen has a hard wood, but it is well processed. Due to the density of the structure, it is resistant to steam penetration, that is, a well-sanded surface does not absorb moisture. If the raw materials for the lining were properly prepared, then such a finish will be durable, since pests will not be afraid of it, and under the influence of moisture, the wood will become stronger. Aspen has healing properties and good energy, it raises the tone, relieves fatigue and headaches, and also helps to boost immunity. In addition, this wood has antiseptic properties, so earlier wells were built from aspen logs, the water in them did not become cloudy and did not bloom, remaining crystal clear for many decades. Many craftsmen choose aspen lining for lining the steam room because of its resistance to high temperatures and moisture.
	Alder has a pleasant golden-orange, and sometimes pink color, which seems to radiate warmth. According to its characteristics, this wood is excellent for facing the surfaces of both dry and wet bath rooms. Alder does not require antiseptic treatment, as its wood contains antibacterial substances. Due to the same property, bacteria, mold, insects do not start in it. Alder has general strengthening properties and has a beneficial effect on human health. From the technical characteristics, low thermal conductivity and high water resistance of wood can be distinguished, so it does not deform and practically does not change its geometry at any temperature. Properly harvested alder is not subject to decay, therefore, like aspen, it was used for the construction of log cabins for wells.
	Cedar- this is probably the ideal wood for cladding bath rooms, but it is rather infrequently chosen for this purpose only for the reason that products from it have a rather high price. Cedar has bactericidal properties, that is, it is able to purify indoor air, as well as antiseptic qualities, which makes its service life quite long, even in a steam room. Cedar lining has a reddish-pink hue, which gives the interior a rich, respectable appearance. Cedar has a pleasant aroma and such positive qualities as high strength and moisture resistance.
	Larch it has high hardness and brittleness, therefore, certain skills are required to install a lining made from it, since the board can split. When heated, larch emits a pleasant aroma and, despite the fact that it belongs to coniferous species, emits a minimum amount of resinous substances and does not overheat. Wood is not afraid of moisture and only becomes stronger over time, but without additional processing it quickly loses its natural color. Due to its inherent characteristics, larch is suitable not only for wall and ceiling cladding, but also for arranging the floor in the bath. In addition, this material is used not only for internal, but also for external wall cladding.
	Hemlock or Hemlock is a Canadian coniferous evergreen tree. Lining made from it is in constant demand, since hemlock wood is resistant to aggressive factors, such as moisture and temperature changes - it does not deform and does not rot. Thanks to these qualities, this material is widely used even in shipbuilding, as well as for facade decoration and the construction of gazebos. The structure of the hemlock has a moderate hardness and rigidity, therefore it is resistant to mechanical stress. Wood does not overheat, so hemlock lining is well suited for wall cladding in a steam bath. Hemlock is also suitable for this room because its wood contains essential oils used in medicine and the perfume industry, and when heated in a steam room, these substances enter the air, aromatizing and disinfecting it. The texture of the wood has a uniform pattern and color, but its shades can vary from light gray to light brown.
	Abashi- This is an African oak, which can have a height of 40 and a thickness of up to 3 meters. Its wood can be yellow, straw or light cream in color. The advantages of this material for lining bath rooms include its qualities such as low thermal conductivity and density, ease of processing, high strength, resistance to deformation processes, absence of knots and other defects, aesthetic and noble appearance. The biggest drawback of this finishing material can be called a very high price and a small assortment of lining on the Russian market.
	Pine- this is the most popular type of wood used for finishing bath rooms, due to its maximum availability. This lining is very widely used for cladding rooms in the bath. However, it should be noted that when heated, pine begins to actively release not only essential beneficial oils, but also resinous substances that can cause burns. Therefore, it is recommended to use pine lining for a washing room, dressing room or rest room, that is, where the air temperature is relatively moderate. Pine is able to create a healthy microclimate in the room, emitting the aroma of the forest, and also maintain a normal level of humidity. The lining has an aesthetic appearance and a long service life in rooms with normal humidity, which is estimated at up to 50 years. Affordable price and positive characteristics of pine wood make it the most demanded in comparison with other materials of this series. The disadvantages of lining can be called its relative hygroscopicity and low resistance to temperature extremes, which leads to deformation processes in the boards. In addition, fungus in the form of bluish spots may appear in the wood structure. That is why it is not recommended to use pine lining for finishing a steam room.
	Oak has always been famous for its strength and density of wood, characterized by a high content of tannins. The lining made of this material will not only create an aesthetic and rich interior in the bath room, but will also fill its air with ethereal substances that suppress pathogenic microflora. Oak wood is resistant to mold and putrefaction, has high moisture resistance and is practically inert to very high and low temperatures. Therefore, an oak board is perfect for finishing both a steam room and any other bath rooms. The color palette of this lining is very diverse and depends on many factors, in particular on the place where the tree grows. The overall color can vary from light milky to dark brown.

Lining classification

All wooden lining is divided into classes, depending on its quality. There are certain criteria by which they are determined.

• "Prima", "Extra" or "Premium" - this is the highest class of facing material, so it is of the best quality from the entire line of similar finishes. The wood selected for the manufacture of extra-class lining should not have knots, black and blue spots and stripes, as well as other flaws. The board should be distinguished by a monochromatic shade and an even textured pattern.
• Class "A" (first grade) - such a lining is also considered a high-quality finishing material. However, minor flaws are allowed on it - these are knots with a frequency of no more than one piece per one and a half linear meters of the board.
• Class "B" (second grade) - this version of the lining is already of lower quality, since the presence of a resin pocket on the boards is allowed, no more than 2 cracks, slight mechanical damage, and the number of knots increases to four per one and a half running meters.
• Class "C" (third grade) - is the most affordable finishing material of this type, which may have various damages. It is unacceptable to use such natural lining for finishing any bath rooms, since the service life of such boards, in conditions of high humidity and temperature changes, will be very short. In this case, the owners will soon have to dismantle the old cladding, and then acquire high-quality material and refinish.

Standard lining parameters

You should never neglect the norms prescribed by the current GOSTs, which are designed to ensure human safety, as well as the longest possible operation of the material used. The norms are based on the study of the characteristics of wood and on certain calculations of the impact of aggressive external factors on it.

According to the established standards, for facing the walls of the bath rooms, the thickness of the lining boards should be from 12 to 25 mm. The use of thinner boards of material, given the operating conditions, would be unwise. The main parameters of lining are established in several regulatory documents, which include:

• GOST 8486-86 "Sawn softwood".
• GOST 8242-88 "Profile parts made of wood for construction". This standard establishes the dimensions of the lining, which varies in width from 45 to 120 mm, and in thickness from 13 to 16 mm. Deviation tolerances are also established: in thickness and width no more than 1 mm, and in straightness - a deviation of no more than 3 mm per 1000 mm of length.
• DIN 68126/86 is a European industrial standard.

These documents do not regulate the length of the board. But in practice, it usually ranges from 2000 to 6000 mm, which is explained by the convenience of packaging, transportation and installation.

Varieties of lining according to the profile

There are a lot of different lining profiles, but the most used are those shown in the illustration below. It would be more accurate to say that the relief that such boards form when sheathing a wall is in fashion today.

For example, today it is rare to find facades or walls of rooms decorated with clapboard, shown in the following illustration. But, one way or another, these options were also in vogue (and some will like it now), and they were milled individually.

It is clear that such profiles are more complex in execution, which predetermines the high price of such "piece" products. Therefore, today, consumers most often choose standards produced on an industrial scale.

According to statistics, the most popular model of facing material for interior work, in particular, for cladding the walls of a bath, is the so-called "evrovonka". From other types of lining, this version of the boards is distinguished by its higher quality, deep connecting grooves, the presence of a special anti-deformation ventilation gap, and “solid” dimensions in height and width.

Although lining the walls with clapboard is a fairly simple and understandable process, but, as with the installation of any other material, there are some nuances in such work, which are best known in advance.

Prices for lining

• When the lining is calculated for lining the internal surfaces of the bath, it is also necessary to take into account the mandatory stock. The sum of the areas of all surfaces to be finished must be divided by the area of ​​​​one panel (this parameter is usually indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer). The resulting number of panels must be increased by another 15÷20% - this will become a reserve for inevitable waste when cutting and fitting the material.
• When sheathing steam rooms and washing rooms, that is, those where the surfaces will be in direct contact with water, the boards are fixed on the walls vertically or diagonally, in order to prevent moisture from entering the connecting grooves. In the dressing room or rest room, the lining can be fixed in any orientation, as the owner of this bath prefers.
• The frame of the crate for lining, fixed in the bathhouse, must be made of wooden beams. A metal profile or other material is absolutely not suitable for this purpose.

• Fixing the lining on the crate is done with nails, 15 ÷ 20 mm long, which must be skillfully driven into the groove of the lock. A simple, but careless movement can easily damage the surface of the board or the integrity of the lock connection. Another mounting option involves the use of clamps, which are put on the bottom shelf of the connecting groove of the board, and through it a nail or self-tapping screw is driven (screwed) into the frame guide.

Find out from our new article on our portal.

Processing lining with protective equipment

No matter how resistant wood is to moisture, it is still recommended to protect it from aggressive environmental influences. To do this, today there are many different means that will create a protective coating and will not adversely affect the health of people taking water and steam procedures. Here it is immediately necessary to clarify that for this purpose it will be necessary to purchase specially designed solutions designed for operation under certain conditions.

In the steam room, you cannot use any materials of your choice for surface treatment. Many of the protective coatings clog the pores of the wood, preventing it from “breathing”, and are also unable to withstand high temperatures and moisture. In addition, when heated, some formulations can emit toxic fumes and unpleasant odors that can be hazardous to human health.

Specialized ones will not only prevent damage to wood by putrefactive processes and the appearance of harmful insects, but will also facilitate sanitary and hygienic operations for mandatory regular cleaning of premises. In addition, protective agents will help preserve the original color and quality of wood.

Previously, natural wax, hemp or linseed oil were used to process lining boards. Today, experts consider special materials made by Finnish and Russian manufacturers to be the most effective.

Acrylic varnish prices

acrylic lacquer

• For example, foreign and Russian companies offer acrylic-based varnish to protect wood used in steam rooms. This solution creates a protective film on the surface that repels water falling on it, capable of withstanding the influence of temperatures of 100 ÷ 120 degrees, and also perfectly resisting the appearance of mold and fungus. This composition is applied at a positive temperature, not lower than five degrees, on a well-polished lining cleaned from dust and dirt.

When carrying out work, the wood must be dry, and the acrylic composition is applied to it in two layers. If a colored varnish is chosen, then 20% of water from the total volume of the solution is usually added to it. Colorless varnish, as a rule, is not diluted.

• Domestic manufacturers produce compositions in the form of a colorless water-based varnish and wax. This composition creates a water-repellent film, extending the life of the bath lining. The components of such a protective agent also include antiseptic substances that resist mold and mildew. Solutions are an environmentally friendly material that does not emit toxic fumes at elevated temperatures. Experts recommend treating the wooden walls of the rest room and the dressing room with matte or semi-matt water-based varnish.

• The craftsmen did not refuse to protect the lining for the bath with linseed or other oil of vegetable origin, as it impregnates the wood structure well, creating a water-repellent layer. This type of treatment is especially well suited for wood species with high porosity. Before applying the oil, the lining is cleaned of dust, then the composition is heated to 50 ÷ 60 degrees. From 4 to 6 layers are applied to the surface of the wood, and when each layer dries, the wood is cleaned with sandpaper. Linseed oil can be used neat or tar or wax is added to it, which increase the effectiveness of the coating and prolong the original condition of the product. Such impregnation of wood, taking into account the operating conditions in an aggressive environment, is recommended to be done once every 3-4 years.

Heaters for a bath under lining

As a rule, internal in order to preserve the heat received during the heating of the bath. However, not all insulation materials are suitable for baths and saunas, as they are not suitable for use in a sufficiently aggressive humid environment.

So, before purchasing a heater, it is necessary to clarify which thermal insulation materials can be used for. When choosing a heater, you should pay attention to the following criteria, which it must meet:

• Ecological cleanliness, that is, the absence of toxic substances in the composition of the insulation.
• Heat resistance, ensuring the fire safety of the room.
• Low hygroscopicity, that is, the material should not absorb moisture.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• Resistance of the material structure to elevated operating temperatures.

The table below shows several heaters that are well suited for their qualities for thermal insulation of bath walls:

Illustration	Characteristic features of heaters
	Mineral wool - this insulation can be called traditional for installation in the insulating "pie" of the walls of the bath. However, it should be recalled that phenol-formaldehyde resins are used in the production of this material, which are a binder for cotton wool fibers. Resins, with increasing temperatures in the premises, can begin to release toxic substances that can cause irreparable harm to health. Therefore, instead of healing, a bath can bring a decrease in immunity, as well as a general weakening of the body. The manufacturer's certificates must indicate that the presence of these substances does not exceed the sanitary standards given in the GOST standards. Do not purchase goods of unknown brands - no one knows how the body of each person will react to this. The choice should be made in favor of basalt insulation from leading companies, and, in the operating recommendations, the possibility of using the material specifically for bath conditions should be stipulated. Such mineral wool insulation is inherently hydrophobic, and some products are produced with a foil reflective layer already applied. A striking example of a special basalt-based insulation is ROCKWOOL Sauna Butts, shown in the illustration.
	The very concept of "glass wool" does not fit well with the conditions of the bath. However, this is not at all the case when it comes to high-quality URSA PUREONE insulation. No complaints about environmental cleanliness have been noted for this thermal insulation yet. The material belongs to a new generation product, and chemically neutral acrylic is used as a binder for the fibers, which does not enter into chemical reactions with any other substances, and therefore does not emit substances harmful to humans even under the most adverse operating conditions. In confirmation of this fact, we can cite the EUCEB certificate, which indicates the absolute environmental friendliness of the insulation. This material is M1 Eurofins certified by EcoStandard group.
	Foil polyurethane foam is a modern material that is used to insulate any buildings, as it has excellent operational and thermal characteristics. "SPU Sauna-Satu" is a thermal insulation material from a Finnish manufacturer, which is great for insulating walls built of wood, brick, silicate or concrete blocks, as well as other materials. Polyurethane foam panels have a double-sided foil coating and have numerous positive qualities. These include environmental safety, the absolute absence of hygroscopicity (that is, the material does not absorb moisture at all), low thermal conductivity, almost half that of mineral wool. In addition, the material does not need a vapor barrier, as it has an external coating of aluminum foil. This completely eliminates the possibility of mold or other microflora appearing on its surface. Due to the small thickness of the insulation, it is easy to fix a wooden crate on top of it for mounting the lining. Rigidity and low mass of mats allow them to be glued to a wall built of any material without the use of a crate. If necessary, the foil on one side of the mat can be removed and ceramic tiles can be glued directly onto the polyurethane foam. Due to the ease of installation of SPU Sauna-Satu, the warming of the bath can be carried out extremely quickly.
	Peat blocks are an environmentally friendly material made from crushed sawdust, small chips, straw and other natural components, which are mixed into a homogeneous composition with crushed and moistened peat. From the resulting mass, insulation blocks are molded and pressed, which have low thermal conductivity and a high degree of sound absorption. The advantage of this insulation can be called its ability to "breathe". Peat blocks absorb moisture well and also give it away without any damage to themselves, that is, they maintain an optimal balance of air humidity in the room. The material belongs to the medium combustibility group (G2), has bacteriostatic qualities (do not allow any microorganisms to develop).
	Foam glass is a modern durable and environmentally friendly material that does not lose its properties throughout the entire period of operation. The blocks have a stable shape and absolute incombustibility, they are distinguished by lightness, chemical inertness, water and heat resistance, high strength, as well as excellent heat and sound insulation qualities. This heat insulator has few drawbacks, but they can be significant, since they include a high price and low impact strength, that is, fragility, so the plates must be handled carefully. In connection with the last "minus" of the material, some manufacturers cover the plates on both sides with a special reinforcing layer.

So, the conclusion is as follows - the insulation should make the bath rooms comfortable for taking water procedures, but with the wrong choice, it can not only spoil the walls of the building, but also bring significant harm to people's health. Therefore, it is very important to acquire not only high-quality wall paneling for finishing the bath, but also material for insulation suitable for these specific conditions.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Warming and finishing with clapboard of the internal walls of the bath

Further, for example, the insulation of the walls of the bath will be presented, which are then sheathed with natural clapboard. In order to be able to choose the appropriate option, it is worth considering the two most optimal ones available for independent implementation.

Finishing the bath with preliminary insulation with polyurethane foam thermal insulation "SPU Sauna-Satu"

Illustration
	In the first case, the insulation is made by the Finnish insulation "SPU Sauna-Satu". It is installed to a wall treated with an antiseptic composition and dried, after ventilation ducts have been laid in it.
	The slabs are installed in rows from floor to ceiling according to the principle of brickwork, that is, the vertical seams between the slabs of each of the rows should not coincide with each other, go “in a run”. Before installing the first row on the floor, along the wall, as well as vertically, along the corner of the room, a mounting foam is applied with a construction gun, which has a small volumetric expansion. In addition, the foam is applied to the vertical joints of the plates, and will serve as both an adhesive and a sealant for the insulation.
	Further, on each installed row, before laying the next one, mounting foam is also applied, that is, the rows must be glued together with a polyurethane foam composition.
	Additionally, the plates are fixed to the wall with dowels or self-tapping screws. The head of the fasteners must be recessed into the insulation.
	Windows are cut out for ventilation pipes. After installing the insulation to the wall, the gap between it and the ventilation duct is filled with mounting foam.
	A heater is also installed along the ventilation pipes, and the gaps formed between them are again filled with mounting foam.
	The insulation installed on the wall should form an almost integral, monolithic coating, since all the mating of the plates will be made using mounting foam.
	In the next step, the insulation is fixed to the ceiling, on which a crate of timber with a section of 50 × 50 or 70 × 70 mm is pre-arranged. The beam must be positioned so that the junction of the two plates to be joined lies on it. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the location of the ventilation ducts, if they are equipped on the ceiling. Before mounting each insulation block, mounting foam is applied to it, with which it takes root to the crate beam. We must not forget that the plates are also "planted" on the foam between themselves.
	Then, the edges of the insulation plate are additionally fixed to the beam with two self-tapping screws.
	Having fixed one row of foil insulation, mounting foam is again applied on its end side, and then the second row of material is mounted and fixed.
	After installing each of the plates, it is additionally fixed on the rails of the battens with self-tapping screws.
	In the event that a chimney pipe from the furnace passes through the ceiling, it is necessary to build a thermally insulated penetration around it - usually a metal box that is filled with heat-resistant material. Expanded clay can be used as such an insulator. It is poured into a box mounted in the ceiling. The gaps inside this penetration, that is, between the pipe and the circumference of the opening through which it passes, can be sealed with a heat-resistant sealant.
	When the room is completely sheathed with heat-insulating material, all unsealed joints of the plates (usually they remain along the line where the walls intersect with the ceiling) are foamed.
	In addition, the gaps around all the elements passed through the insulation are filled with foam, since the coating must become absolutely tight.
	When the foam expands and completely hardens, its protruding excess must be cut off. This process should be carried out without fail, even in those places where the foam appeared, it would seem, slightly, otherwise these remaining influxes may violate the overall waterproofing.
	The next step, without exception, all the joints between the plates, the foamed gaps around the pipes, as well as the hats of the screwed screws on the walls and on the ceiling, are sealed with moisture-resistant foil tape. It should fit snugly against the aluminum surface of the insulation.
	If it is planned to cover the lower part of the wall with ceramic tiles, then it is necessary to remove the aluminum coating from the insulation. To do this, a line is marked according to the level at the level of the upper edge of the planned tiled "belt", then, without much pressure, a sharp knife is drawn along it.
	Then, the cut metal film is carefully picked up with the tip of a knife and, slowly, peeled off and separated from the insulation board.
	Further, the insulation material, the floor, and especially the joint between them, is covered with a waterproofing composition, for example, liquid rubber. While the waterproofing has not yet hardened, a reinforcing material is glued onto it with a strip, the width of which should be such that it covers the lower part of the wall and the floor by 150 ÷ ​​170 mm and is well pressed to the joint between them. If necessary, that is, if the reinforcing mesh is not immediately recessed into the waterproofing, another layer is applied on top of it.
	After the waterproofing material dries, ceramic tiles are mounted on top of it with waterproof glue.
	The marking of the insulated surface is carried out using a building level with a ruler and a black marker, since it will not damage the aluminum coating, and its trace will be clearly visible on the surface. The guide battens for lining are installed at a distance of 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other.
	Then, along the marked lines, with the help of self-tapping screws or dowels, which are screwed in in increments of 200 ÷ 300 mm, the laths of the crate are fixed, with a section of 15 × 50 or 20 × 50 mm. In this case, it is planned to install the lining horizontally, so the elements of the crate are fixed vertically to the wall. To the ceiling, the slats are fixed perpendicular to the frame beam, on which the insulation is fixed.
	The next step is the lining of the ceiling. The boards are assembled with the help of tongue-and-groove joints. If necessary, since the spike can enter the groove with resistance, the lining can be slightly knocked out with a hammer by attaching an auxiliary rail to it.
	In this example, an electric nail gun is used to fix the lining. It is very convenient to work with them, and the process of fixing the lining boards is quite fast.
	After the ceiling sheathing is completed, they move on to lining the walls with clapboard. In this case, the horizontal arrangement of the lining boards a was chosen, which is typical for Finnish saunas. However, as mentioned above, the best option, especially for Russian baths, is the vertical orientation of the boards, in order to avoid the penetration of moisture under the cladding.

The second version of the cladding - using fiberglass insulation type "URSA PUREONE"

To insulate the walls of the bath, thermal insulation environmentally friendly material based on fiberglass - "URSA PUREONE" can be used. However, in this case, it will be necessary to cover the insulation layer with a vapor-tight material. For these purposes, foamed foil polyethylene is usually used, which covers the entire insulated surface.

How such a finish is carried out - step by step in the table below:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	This version of the insulation and cladding of the bath room takes place in a different order from the first considered cladding method, since other materials are used for it. The first stage of work consists in fixing the frame on the wall, previously cleaned, treated with a primer, well dried and marked for timber. The guides are installed in increments of 600 mm, so that the clear distance is, taking into account the width of the beam, approximately 560-580 mm. The beam is fastened with dowels, and the hats of these elements must be recessed flush with the wood. Then, between the vertically installed guides, a heater is laid. Here it is necessary to clarify that the cross section of the beam must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. The selected installation step of the guides allows you to tightly, without gaps, by surprise due to elasticity, securely install insulation mats with a width of 600 mm.
	Then, the laid insulation over its entire area is tightened with a vapor barrier material, which is often used as foam foil polyethylene with a thickness of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. The canvases of this material are nailed to wooden bars with staples, and then all their joints are sealed with waterproof foil tape.
	On top of the foil insulation, rails with a section of 20 × 40 mm and with a step of 400 ÷ 500 mm are fixed horizontally. Fastening is carried out with the help of self-tapping screws to vertically installed bars of the crate.
	When installing rails, their evenness is controlled using the building level, both horizontally and relative to the wall. Therefore, if necessary, in certain places, fragments of plywood or thinner slats are placed under the slats in order to achieve a flat plane of the wall.
	When using wooden linings, the slats are fixed through them to the frame beam with longer self-tapping screws - 50 ÷ 60 mm.
	The lower rails should be fixed at a height of 30 ÷ 50 mm from the floor, so that it is convenient to then fix the lining to them.
	Additional rails are fixed around window and door openings, as well as in corners, and they can be mounted vertically and horizontally, depending on the installation location.
	Next, the lining is installed. Facing start from the corner. The first board must be verified according to the building level, and its correct position can be marked on the horizontal rails with a simple pencil.
	This board is screwed to each of the laths of the crate with self-tapping screws in the corner area. To prevent the lining from cracking, it is recommended to pre-drill a hole for the self-tapping screw with a thinner drill.
	On the other hand, the board is attached to each rail through the clamp. It slides into the groove of the lining until it stops, and through the hole it is nailed to the rail with a small nail or staples hammered with a stapler. When hammering a nail into the hole of the kleimer, in order not to damage the edge of the board, pliers are used to grab the nail by the head and only after that they hit it with a hammer.
	In this photo, the kleimer and the driven nail are shown in a different projection in order to clearly see how the fixing process is carried out.
	The next lining is driven with a groove into the spike of the previous, already fixed board over the kleimers. Then, it is also fixed to the rails through the clamps installed in its groove.
	If the spike of the lining enters the groove with difficulty, then the board is carefully knocked out with a hammer, applying an additional piece of the rail so as not to damage the lock part.
	The result should be a flat (or with vertical "grooves", depending on the type of lining chosen) wooden wall.
	The next step is that all small slit-like gaps formed at the junctions of the planes are closed with fittings - these can be wooden corners or skirting boards. The accessories are fixed on top of the lining with small carnations or those from which the hats are removed.
	If, after mounting the cladding on the wall, it is decided to additionally tint it, then it is recommended to use a combined tinting protective composition for this purpose, which includes antiseptic components and a flame retardant.
	Such a composition will not only give the intended color and aesthetics to the mounted skin, but will also become a good protection against external influences and rapid ignition. The questions of the final decoration of the lining in the bath with appropriate impregnations or varnishes were described in detail above in the article.

Of course, in addition to these two demonstrated methods of thermal insulation of walls in a bathhouse, followed by clapboard cladding, there are others - it all depends on the specifics of the building and the heaters used. The main thing is that the optimal scheme of the insulating and finishing “pie” is observed, high-quality materials are selected taking into account their operational characteristics.

At the end of the publication - a training video from the company "TechnoNIKOL" on the insulation of the walls of the bath, followed by lining them with natural clapboard.

Video: proper insulation of the walls of the bath for lining - materials of the company "TechnoNIKOL"