Heating a room at no extra cost: how to build a brick oven for a summer residence? How, using the drawings, to fold brick ovens for a house with a hob with your own hands The simplest do-it-yourself brick oven

No one country house can not do without a stove, as it will feed and warm. Today, gas pipelines have been laid in many villages, and it would seem that it is possible to switch to more convenient way heating. However, many homeowners are reluctant to give up brick ovens, which give a completely different, special warmth. In addition, in regions rich in forests, where there are no problems with firewood, it is possible to save on gas by having a brick oven in the house.

To find out how to fold, you need to study in detail the layout and masonry technology. Before proceeding to the study of a specific option, several models should be considered, as there are compact and massive structures. You need to choose a stove that will occupy a smaller area in the house, but will have all the functions that are in demand in the household.

There are a lot of models of brick ovens. Experienced stove-makers can make their own changes to finished projects, as they already know by heart where and how internal channels should pass through which smoke is removed. Thanks to correct scheme their placement in the design of the furnace, it will evenly warm up and give off most of the heat to the room. It is better for novice masters to follow the already drawn up ordering schemes exactly, without deviating a single step from them, since even one incorrectly placed brick can ruin all this rather laborious work.

Furnaces are divided into three main types according to their functionality - cooking, heating and. By choosing the right design, first of all you need to decide what exactly will be required from it.

The cooking oven has a cast iron hob for cooking and heating water. Typically, such stoves are small in size and are popular for installation in small private houses and in the country. Of course, the cooking stove is capable, in addition to cooking, also to warm a small room.

The heating and cooking stove is a multifunctional massive structure

A heating and cooking stove can warm a house or a country house with a large area, and sometimes a stove bench is included in its design, and in addition to the stove, an oven, a tank for heating water and a niche for drying vegetables and fruits are built in.

Always compact. It does not include a hob and is only used for space heating. Such a structure is able to warm two rooms, if it is placed between them, built into the wall.

Choosing the best place to place the oven

Having chosen the desired model of the furnace, you need to look for a suitable place for it. The building can be installed against a wall, in the middle of a room, or built into a wall. The choice of location will depend on the size of the furnace structure and on the desire of the owner of the house.

• The stove, standing in the middle of a large room, can divide it into two different zones, for example, a kitchen and a dining room or living room. The hob will go into the kitchen, and flat wall with a well-made masonry will become designer decoration living room. Perhaps, immediately or over time, there will be a desire to complete the wall to the furnace, and completely separate the two rooms - in this case, the partition must be isolated from the furnace with non-combustible material. You can use asbestos sheets for this or install brickwork.
• It is undesirable to build a furnace against an external wall, as it will quickly cool down there.
• When installing a stove between two rooms, it must also be separated from the walls with heat-resistant materials.
• The proposed place of construction must be well measured and it must be taken into account that the foundation must be 100 ÷ 120 mm larger than the base of the furnace. In addition to the base area, you need to calculate the height of the building so that it fits well into the room in all respects.
• In order to make it easier to work, it is necessary to find an ordering scheme for the selected model.

Having decided on the model and installation site, you can purchase materials for construction and prepare tools.

Tools, building materials for laying a brick oven

Depending on the size of the oven, it requires a different amount of materials and additional cast iron and steel parts, but the tools for masonry are the same.

Tools

Of the tools and fixtures for the construction of any furnace you will need:

"Goat" is a scaffolding that will facilitate work at height when the stove is raised above human height. They are convenient in that the master stove-maker can not only climb on them, but also put a container with a solution next to him and even put the tools and building materials necessary for this stage of work.

"Goats" will be needed when laying the upper rows

Another version of the stand, more compact, is the “tragus”. You need to have two such devices, because if you put them at a certain distance from each other and lay thick boards on top, you get the same platform. Can also be used separately, as stairs.

You can get by with a couple of more compact "traguses", making temporary boardwalks on them

From the tools you will need to prepare the following set:

1. A pick will be needed to separate and hew bricks.

2. Panicle, made of bast, for removing dried sand and pieces of mortar from the finished laid rows of masonry and mopping inside the masonry.

3. Corner - will help bring the corners inside and outside the oven exactly 90 degrees.

4. A plumb line is needed to verify the vertical of the walls.

5. An oven hammer is also required to separate the brick into pieces and chip off small protrusions of the hardened mortar.

6. Pliers will be needed to cut, bend and straighten the wire.

7. A rubber mallet is necessary for tapping bricks in the masonry if they are difficult to fit.

8. A chisel will also be needed for splitting bricks, as well as parsing old masonry.

9. Trowel (trowel) of different sizes - for applying the solution and removing the protruding excess.

10. A rule will be needed to level the surface of the foundation.

11. Lead scriber is used for marking, especially in cases where it is planned to finish the stove with tiles.

12. Stukaltse is a piece of pipe, which is also used for trimming tiles; instead of a hammer, they hit a knife.

13. Wooden spatula - for kneading and grinding the solution.

14. Metal scriber for marking.

15. The level is needed to check the horizontal rows and vertical walls.

16. A rasp is used to remove sagging and lapping lumps.

17. Jointing is necessary for the accuracy of the design of the seams if the stove is not plastered or trimmed with decorative tiles.

18. Container for mixing the solution.

19. A sieve that will help make the masonry mortar thin.

building materials

The amount of materials will depend on the chosen furnace, and their list is almost always the same. For a purely heating type you don’t need a hob, oven, water tank. But usually a standard set of cast iron and steel elements consists of the following titles:

1. Door for blower.

2. Door for furnaces.

3. Doors for cleaning ovens.

4. Valve for the chimney.

5. Burner of several rings.

6. Cooktop.

7. Grate grate.

From other metal elements you may need:

1. Oven.

2. Tank for water.

3. Metal corner 50 × 50 mm.

4. Metal strips 3 ÷ 4 mm thick.

5. Steel wire.

Directly for masonry you will need to purchase:

1. Brick hardened red.

2. Fireclay brick.

3. Ingredients for clay mortar or ready-made dry heat-resistant mixture for laying stoves.

4. The foundation will require cement, crushed stone, sand, formwork material and a sheet of roofing material for waterproofing.

5. You will also need a heat-resistant material for the protective lining of the walls of the house and a metal sheet or ceramic floor tile.

Refractory brick prices

Refractory brick

Preparing a site for the construction of the stove

Usually the foundation for the furnace is poured simultaneously with the general foundation of the house, although it is not rigidly connected to it. However, it often happens that the furnace is being built already in the finished building.

Further actions depend on which floor is arranged in the room.

• If the foundation is concrete and completely poured, according to the slab principle, and the structure of the furnace is not designed to be too massive, then you can start laying the furnace directly on the concrete floor, after laying a sheet of roofing material under the masonry.
• If the foundation is tape or the floor is wooden, then you will have to build the foundation from scratch.

Foundation

The foundation must be deepened into the ground. To do this, a place is marked on the floor for the oven, and then the boards or thin concrete floor are removed.

• A pit is dug in the opened ground, 400-500 mm deep.
• At the bottom of the pit, a “cushion” of 100 mm is made of sand, and then of the same thickness - of crushed stone, the layers are well compacted.
• Further, along the perimeter of the pit, a formwork for pouring concrete is arranged - it should rise above the main floor by 100 ÷ 120 mm
• The bottom layer of the foundation, up to about half the height, may consist of crushed stone, sand and cement. It is poured, distributed evenly over the entire area, and left to harden.
• After the bottom layer has set well, you can pour the top layer, which will consist of a thinner solution. The space is filled with fully cooked concrete mortar and leveled by the rule, and the upper formwork boards will serve as beacons for this. The foundation must dry well and gain the required strength. To do this, it is necessary, starting from the second day, to moisten with water, which will improve the uniformity of the maturation of the cement mortar and prevent cracks from forming.

• A completely finished foundation (after 3 ÷ 4 weeks) is covered with roofing material to create a waterproofing layer. Then markings are made on this surface - the shape of the furnace base is drawn, along which the first row will be laid out.

Dry masonry

• For a novice stove-maker, experienced craftsmen recommend not to rush to lay bricks on the mortar, so as not to make mistakes. Especially in the event that this work will be carried out for the first time, it is best to bring the entire furnace structure dry.
• Carrying out this process carefully, with a constant eye on the existing scheme, you can understand the internal design of the chimney channels and the arrangement of the furnace and blower.
• For dry laying, it is necessary to prepare auxiliary slats having a thickness of 5 mm, which will determine the distance between the bricks - it will be filled with mortar during the main laying, forming seams.
• After the entire stove model to the chimney is laid out, it is again dismantled, while the bricks of each of the rows can be stacked separately, if there is enough space in the room for this, and numbered, indicating the row and the specific part in it. This is especially important if, when laying dry, the bricks were adjusted to the required size.
• It should be immediately noted that during the final laying, each of the rows is also better to first, for control, lay out dry again, and then immediately fix it to the mortar.
• In addition, you need to know that when laying bricks on the mortar, it is applied with a thickness of about 7 mm, then the brick is pressed and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber mallet. Excess mortar is immediately picked up with a trowel.
• After laying two or three rows, until the mortar has set, the seams are decorated with embroidery. If suddenly the solution was not moist enough, it can be sprinkled with a little water from the spray bottle.
• We must not forget that during laying, constant monitoring of the vertical and horizontal rows is necessary.

Knowing these nuances, you can go directly to the masonry.

The presented video shows a diagram of the construction of a compact heating stove which is suitable even for a very small room. True, other additional functions are not included in it:

Video: heating stove for small spaces

Compact "Swede"

Convenient, versatile and fairly compact Swedish stove

Can be called the most accurate and compact oven suitable for small spaces. This stove can be called a heating and cooking stove, since it has a high body with chimney channels located inside, which means that when it is fired, the walls will warm up well, giving off heat to the room. At the same time, there is also a hob in the design.

The first picture shows a “Swede”, which has a wider gable part than in the second photo, since it is supplemented with an oven, and instead of cleaning windows above the stove, a drying niche is made. This version of the furnace is twice as wide as the second model.

This is also a "Swede", but of a slightly different design.

The ordering scheme shown below almost completely corresponds to the stove in the presented photo, with some exceptions: instead of two windows for cleaning, a niche is arranged above the hob, a slightly different pipe location is on the other side of the structure, and sustained roundness of the corners. When laying in this order, the oven will look something like this.

The design is laid out, based on the ordering scheme:

Scheme-ordering for laying a compact heating and cooking "Swede"

Although this diagram shows that from the first row they begin to lay out the blower chamber, after all it is worth laying it out as a solid plane, and only from the second row you can start working on the blower chamber. But, in order not to create confusion, the description will go exactly according to the scheme, and the first solid row can be called “zero”.

• So, from the first row, the formation of the blower chamber begins.
• On the second row, a blower door is installed. The door is fixed to the wire and temporarily supported by bricks until it is lined with masonry on all sides.

• From the fourth row, two chambers for cleaning begin to be brought out and doors are also installed on them.
• On the fifth row, a grate is laid.

• The firebox door is also fixed with wire on the sixth row, and is also supported for a while by bricks mounted on the grate, and also if necessary, a support is also placed on the front side of the door.

• On the seventh row lay the beginning of the vertical chimney channels.
• On the ninth row, the firebox door is blocked with a brick, the wire of which it is fixed, removed into the seams between the rows.
• On the eleventh row, a hob is laid on the left opening, strips of asbestos are laid under its edges. The front lower edge of the cooking chamber is framed with a steel corner.
• From the twelfth to the sixteenth row is displayed cooking chamber.
• On the seventeenth row, metal strips are laid, and its upper edge is formed into a corner.
• The next two rows are laid solid, leaving only three chimney channels.
• On the twentieth row, another door is installed, and a cleaning chamber and a niche for drying begin to form.
• At 22- ohm in a row, the chamber door is covered with masonry.
• On the 23rd row, the chamber is completely blocked, and a hole is left at its end, which will continue the chimney channel.
• At 24- ohm a row of metal strips cover the drying niche.
• At 25- ohm install the cleaning chamber door.
• At 27- ohm the door is covered with masonry.
• At 28- ohm covers the entire chamber.
• At 30- ohm in a row, two valves are installed on the chimney channels. First, the frame of this part is laid on the solution, and then the valve is inserted into it.

• From the 31st to the 35th th row is laid out segment .
• From the 35th to the 38th, the construction of the pipe fluff begins.
• Next, comes the laying of the pipe, which already has his own numbering. From the first to the 26th row, the shape of the pipe does not change, only it is necessary to carefully monitor the evenness and internal cleanliness (from mortar residues) of the chimney channels. This part of the pipe is called the riser.
• On the third row, they put another door on the cleaning chamber.
• At 27- ohm a row put another chimney valve.
• At 29- ohm make the expansion of the pipe by one row, and by 30 ohm it is returned to its original form.
• Starting from the 31st row, the narrowest part of the pipe is laid out, which is led out through the roof.

When the chimney passes through the attic floor, it must be isolated from it with combustible materials - it can be asbestos, mineral wool or expanded clay, covered in a box located around the entire perimeter of the pipe.

The hole in the roof through which the pipe passes, after construction, must be closed with waterproofing material, which is applied both to the pipe and to the roof.

Installation of other oven elements

As mentioned above, other elements can be built into the oven, so it is worth considering how some of them are installed.

Oven

If the design provides for an oven, then it is most often installed on the same level as the firebox or hob. This is important for its rapid and uniform heating.

• In the place where it will be installed, they first mount metal corners- They will become reliable supports for the cabinet.

• Further, the oven is wrapped with asbestos cord - this material is heat-resistant and will help the thin metal of the cabinet last longer.

Video: laying technology for an efficient oven with an oven

Prices for masonry mixtures and adhesives for special purposes

Masonry mixes and adhesives for special purposes

hot water tank

The hot water tank can be installed in different ways. Sometimes it is built into the design of the furnace, in other cases it is placed on top. The main thing is that it is located next to the chimney channel, from which the water will receive the necessary thermal energy. In this case, it is necessary to provide a hole for filling the tank with water and a tap from which it can be taken. It is desirable to make a water tank from a stainless alloy, otherwise very soon yellow water will come out of it, which is of little use for water procedures.

Another option for installing this water heating element is to install it on the same level with the hob, above the firebox, when it will heat up only from below. In this case, it is best to lay a cast-iron or thick steel plate under the tank, otherwise its bottom will burn out very quickly. The container in this installation option is not embedded in the walls of the furnace.

The inconvenience of such an installation is that there is less space left for the hob, or the firebox will have to be made deeper, which means that the overall dimensions of the stove will increase, which is not always possible in tight spaces.

When choosing a stove model for your home, you need to think through everything in advance - what functions should be implemented in it, its size and design. Based on this, it is worth choosing a building design with an ordering scheme.

It should be noted that laying a stove is a real art, and not even every experienced craftsman always succeeds perfectly. Therefore, if there are no skills in this work, then it is better to invite a specialist who will help to do everything right.

A small brick oven can sometimes be quite useful, especially if you do not have a large room and do not live in it permanently. It will allow you to quickly warm up the room and create a comfortable environment.

Today we will tell you how to make a small brick oven with your own hands, what you need to take into account for this and instructions on the manufacturing rules will be offered. You can also watch the video in this article and select the desired modification.

Mini ovens and their features

Small brick ovens for summer cottages also have their own characteristics; before making a final decision, you should familiarize yourself with them.

• The compactness of a brick or appliance structure is considered the main condition for a small room;
• An important condition for such a stove is safety, because usually country houses are built from wood, which dries quickly in the sun and, if hit, the lawn can completely flare up, like a match. Among other things, the chimney and the device itself must be airtight, they have excellent internal draft, because carbon monoxide that gets inside can lead to rather sad consequences;
• The stove, which is placed in the summer cottage in the winter, must withstand without kindling for quite a long time and not get damp at the same time;
• Warming up and rapid kindling of the appliance, the spread of heat is also essential condition for a stove of this type, because when it rains or at the end of difficult work, you want to relax in a warm room and drink hot tea;
• It is desirable that such a stove be equipped with large doors - so that it can perform the functions of a fireplace, because it is almost impossible to do without evening gatherings next to the fire;
• Long-term heat retention necessary moment if you are going to the house with an overnight stay;
• It is almost impossible to do without a hob in a country house, especially if electricity is periodically turned off in the village and there is no gas supply;
• Also an important factor is the fuel that is used for the stove. To save money, choose an omnivorous heating device that can be melted. various options- brushwood, coal, firewood or household waste;


• It is desirable that the furnace has the ability to mount a hot water register;
• The simplicity of the design of the heater allows you to fold and install it on your own, which saves a tidy sum, because the services of masters in this regard are not cheap;
• An important point is the aesthetic appeal, because with the help of the device you can transform the room, or add some kind of gray spot to the overall design.

Brick ovens

A small brick oven for summer cottages is used quite often.

But when installing, you will need to consider the following points:

• The stove can be installed in such a way that it will distribute heat to several rooms without heating circuits. If the furnace was brought out correctly and the valve was installed, it is considered fireproof, but for this building it will be necessary to create a strong foundation that will be isolated from the foundation of the walls. it bathroom condition if you do not comply with it, then the masonry may lose its integrity, because when the foundation of the house shrinks, it can begin to pull the base of the furnace;

Attention: Do not forget that such furnaces do not like long downtime and dampness, therefore, in order for heat transfer to be maximum after a period when it has not been used, several drying furnaces must be carried out without significant loads. In each of them we gradually increase the amount of fuel - this process is usually called acceleration.

• It is precisely because the brick is afraid of dampness that such stoves are mounted in the country house only if they live in the house most of the time and there is the possibility of a firebox;
• Residents of private houses consider only those buildings that are made of brick useful and real. At the same time, heating devices made from other materials are not recognized at all. In fact, such a stove will give the room a special coziness and a unique atmosphere. And more importantly, they are multifunctional. Professionals in the furnace business have developed a huge number of different models from which you can choose for a specific option.

Installation of a small oven

A small do-it-yourself brick oven is installed without any problems.

There are two options here:

• First option, you are just making a furnace with a foundation. Then the price of the building will increase, but it will be a rather heat-intensive structure;
• Second option, this is if you do not have enough funds and you do not have the skills. Then it is quite possible to install a metal furnace and, to increase the heat capacity, simply overlay it with bricks.

Attention: In the first option, your building will occupy more space and heat transfer will be higher.

Materials that will be required for the work

You will need:

• Twenty liters of clay mortar;
• boards;
• About sixty bricks;
• Blower door;
• Cast iron plate;
• Furnace door;
• Lattice;
• Chamotte brick.

The size of a small stove is 0.4 m2 and is made of brick, which is laid on edge or flat. This type of oven perfectly retains and distributes heat.

The design is quite simple, because the mini-oven does not weigh too much and the foundation is not a prerequisite. The floor should be made of thick and durable boards that are well fixed.

Such a stove on its own is an alternative to a potbelly stove, but it has a more functional ability and a heating part, in which a cooking part is provided. She also plays the role of a fireplace. Such a furnace is being built without any problems and during the day.

At the very beginning, it is necessary to melt the stove with paper and wood chips, but do not take logs, because sharp temperature changes can cause cracks in the solution. This will further lead to smoke or improper air movement.

Before starting the oven, it is necessary that it dries properly. Usually this takes about a week.

Masonry mix

Everything can be done by hand. Then the price will be much lower. In masonry, it is quite possible to use several compositions. What to choose is up to you.

• For laying bricks, clay-sand, cement mortar is used. For example, screening instead of sand for the mixture is used to fill the foundation, and a mixture of cement and sand is used for one or more rows of masonry. If for the grade of cement M400 sand is added ¼, then for the screed, the screening must be mixed in a ratio of 1/6;
• A solution of sand and clay is a little more difficult to prepare, because it will take much more time. In order for the clods of clay to break, they must be soaked in water in the evening, and those that remain in the same state should be kneaded with your hands so that there are no small lumps left;
• The ratio of clay and sand is one to two or one to three - it all depends on the degree of fat content of the solution (this is checked with a trowel). The consistency is considered normal when the solution slides off the trowel without problems, leaving no traces, and in its density it should resemble mashed potatoes.

How do you make a stove

How to make a small brick oven now consider in detail. It has its own technology and procedure.

In order to properly build the stove yourself, you must follow the following recommendations:

Attention: Refractory material must be used for the furnace part. It will also withstand charcoal fires. As a solution, it is better to use a clay mixture. It is the most practical and durable.

• We choose a suitable place for a mini-stove, and instead we put roofing material, film, glassine or hydrosol in it. The size of such material should be 78x53 centimeters;
• On the litter (the thickness of which is about a centimeter) it is required to pour out and level the sand;
• On top of it we lay the first row of twelve bricks, which do not need to be fastened together. After that, we align all the bricks in one level so that they are strictly in a horizontal position;
• A small layer of clay is applied to the initial row, after which you can proceed with the installation of the blower door. It is imperative that it be wrapped in asbestos cord or cardboard. We fix it with a wire, after which you can safely proceed to laying the next one;
• Fireclay bricks are used for the third row of a mini-stove, after which a grate is installed. It is mounted above the blower only when the third brick row is fully formed;


• We make the following out of bricks, but we lay them on the edge, in the middle of the chimney it is necessary to lay stands for internal partitions. The back wall of the stove is laid with a small protrusion outward and without the use of clay - they are called knockout bricks;
• After that, install the furnace door. Again, before proceeding with the installation of the door, it must be wrapped with a cord in such a way that it can be opened from the bottom up. It is fixed with wire and fixed for a while with several stones. The first is placed behind, and the second - on top of the door;
• Also, for the reliability of fastening, a wire is inserted into the holes, which is twisted and the ends are laid in order;

• The fifth row is made flat, here we definitely check the contour of the last row. But the sixth row is laid with an edge. Then we rub the walls of a large stove with a wet rag and proceed to the next step;
• On the 7th row, the brick is laid flat. Next, we expose a couple of bricks with an edge and proceed to the back wall;


• When the time comes for the 8th row of the stove on your own, then make sure that it overlaps the furnace door, above which it will end. It was at this time that we installed a beveled brick over the firebox so that the flame was directed to the center of the stove burner;
• We lay out the wetted asbestos cord in advance so that the space between the bricks and the slab is completely sealed. Since cast iron and clay have different ratio thermal expansion, then the slab is not laid on clay. After that, you can go to the ninth row, but here it needs to be shifted so that the door is kept open;
• When working with the following, you will need to form a chimney that will expand at the back. To make a furnace of this design, there is no need for a tube that will expand at the top, since this type of tube will change the center of gravity. There are various schemes of chimneys. They are: horizontal, direct, countercurrent, combined, and so on. In our design, the stove should have a direct version;
• When working with the next row, do not forget about inserting a plug, which is sealed with a cord (it is advisable to additionally coat it with clay);
• Thus, the pipes will dock with the metal. If the flue goes to the side, then it must be blocked with several brick rows;
• After that, we take out the brick from the fourth row and clean the pipe from the dirt that has accumulated during the construction work;


• We whiten the oven. We protect the metal part of the furnace itself and its walls with a film. So that it does not turn yellow over time, milk and a small amount of blue should be added to the solution. Each piece of the stove must be processed in the most careful way, paying special attention to the joints of bricks and the cast-iron surface;
• The gaps between the first row and the floor are carefully sealed. This is necessary so that the sand that was poured under the brick does not wake up;
• After edging the structure, we nail the plinth, which will protect the stove from sand spills. We nail it flush and tight to cover all the cracks. Thanks to such actions, the stove will look even better;
• As soon as you make the first fire with wood chips and paper, leave all the doors and burners open for a few days so that everything dries well.

A small brick oven for a summer residence is made quite quickly and it will last a long time. The main thing is to look at the photo and choose the option you want. The instructions will not let you make mistakes.

iz-kirpicha.su

Preparation for work

It is unlikely that you will be able to make a complex and highly efficient stone oven for a brick cottage with your own hands without building experience. Too many nuances and secrets are fraught with the work of a professional stove-maker. But small in size and uncomplicated in design, a vertical stone stove for a summer residence can be built even by an unprepared person. The main thing in this process is to do everything very carefully, accurately and in accordance with our recommendations.

Choice of building materials

Since the described small brick oven for summer cottages is fired with wood, it is not intended for intense and prolonged heating - it can be folded from ordinary, not refractory bricks. Although, it is better to use heat-resistant material for the combustion chamber.

List and required amount of materials:

• red ceramic solid brick- 700 pcs.;
• grate - 1 pc.;
• furnace door - 1 pc.;
• blower door - 1 pc.;
• soot cleaning channel doors - 2 pcs.;
• valve - 1 pc.

For a do-it-yourself wood-fired oven, you need to choose a full-bodied ceramic brick that does not crumble from the middle blow of a hammer, and at the same time does not make a sonorous (this is a red-hot brick), but a booming sound. It is desirable that the side faces of the bricks are smooth.

Clay will be needed for the solution. The stove-makers prefer to choose “fatty”, from which the solution is soft, like butter, and plastic, like soft plasticine. Such clay for building a do-it-yourself stove can be found in hardware stores or, after consulting with local residents, simply dig up in the area.

Tool

FROM good tool a stove for a country house is built quickly and easily. For work, you should prepare a level, a plumb line, a trowel, a mason's hammer and dishes for preparing a clay solution. To cut bricks, you need a grinder.

We are preparing the foundation for a brick oven for a summer residence

Whatever the small brick oven for giving with your own hands, its weight is several hundred kilograms. Therefore, it is impossible to put it on the wooden floor of the room, but you need a foundation.

To choose the right place for the foundation, you need to project the plan of the stove onto the ground so that its pipe falls between the floor beams and the roof logs. If a chimney is provided in the wall of the house, then the stove for the country house should be located near it. When building a new house, the stove in the country can be built into the wall between the rooms. This option is very convenient: both rooms heat up equally quickly, but in one of the rooms, even under the most adverse conditions, there will never be smoke.

The depth of the foundation must exceed the depth of soil freezing. However, if the country house has its own deep foundation, then a combined base can be made at the stove for giving. To do this, four lightweight concrete columns are vertically dug into the ground, such as those used for fences. The posts should protrude from the ground just below floor level.

Between them, right on the surface of the soil, a gravel or sand cushion is poured into half a brick. Then a layer of roofing material or other sheet waterproofing is laid. A reinforcing metal mesh is laid on top, and a concrete foundation with reinforcement is poured on top of it. The top of the foundation must match the level of the floor and be perfectly horizontal!

Let's start building the oven

On top of the foundation, you need to lay another layer of waterproofing, and on it - a metal sheet. The dimensions of the sheet should exceed the projection of the stove by 10-15 cm. Moreover, from the side of loading firewood, it is better to make a larger release. Then random sparks from the blower will fall not on the wooden floor, but on the metal.

During operation, the stove for giving heats up quite strongly. If the nearby wall is made of wood or other flammable materials, it must be protected with thermal insulation. The simplest protection can be an asbestos sheet painted with heat-resistant paint or covered with a thin plaque. Open asbestos should not be kept, as its dust is considered very dangerous for inhalation. Instead of asbestos, a do-it-yourself dacha stove can be isolated from wood with a hard mineral wool slab. The material must be heat resistant. Facade construction wool is not suitable for this, because it has a too low temperature limit.

Preparing a clay solution

The country stove is built on clay, not on cement. Clay mortar is prepared from good clay and clean river or sea sand. If the clay is not purchased, but dug somewhere in the neighborhood, then it is worth first checking its quality. To do this, we make several test batches with different proportions of clay and sand. We roll the finished clay dough into small balls, rollers, cakes, and leave to dry for two weeks at room temperature.

Dried products must be tested: thrown from a height of human growth, try to crush them with a plank under the weight of a weight, etc. The composition of the most durable clay sample is taken as a standard. In the figure above, the best batch corresponds to samples "b".

Brick and Clay Preparation

A do-it-yourself stove for a summer residence is built from pre-soaked bricks! To do this, it is kept in water for at least 8 hours. During this time, all the air will come out, and the clay will be good to take on the brick in the masonry. Clay needs to be prepared quite a bit, so that approximately 20-25 pieces are enough for laying. bricks. Without the necessary experience, you can’t put more at a time. The thickness of the clay mortar in the masonry should not exceed 5 mm.

Features of kiln masonry

In order for the oven in the country, laid out with your own hands, to serve for a long time, each row should be checked for right angles and the horizontalness of the surface. The laying sequence is visible on the ordering drawing.

The cast-iron doors of the blower and the combustion chamber are fastened with steel wire, which is walled up in masonry. The cuts are made by a grinder. In extreme cases, you can do it the old fashioned way - with a bricklayer's hammer, but at the same time, a lot of waste is possible for marriage. The area under the grate should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the grate itself. Then, when heated, the metal will not move the brick.

The solution is applied to the wet brick. Experienced stove-makers do this not with a trowel, but with their hands. A good solution is as easy to apply as soft butter is spread on bread.

When building a stove for a summer house, try to make the inner walls as smooth as possible. Then soot will not linger on them, and it will be easier and less likely to need to be cleaned. Outside, the country stove should also be neat and beautiful. External seams should be carefully embroidered with embroidery or with your finger. In places where vaults and horizontal partitions are formed, there should also be no gaps. It is better to lay such rows slowly, one per day, so that the lower rows have time to grab, while the upper ones do not crawl.

Outcome

In spite of small size and simple design for small houses brick country stoves are very popular, as they show very good results. They heat up quickly and are warm enough to last all day. A small brick oven for a summer residence is notable for its low cost and availability for self-manufacturing, but with permanent residence in the winter, it will have to be heated twice a day - in the morning and in the evening.

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What should be the oven for giving

Before starting construction, you should decide for yourself an important question: what kind of brick oven to build with your own hands.

To do this, consider the characteristics that it should have.

1. Fuel. it dacha device must be "omnivorous", i.e. to be heated not only with firewood, but also with junk fuel: brushwood and branches, coal, agricultural waste, briquettes. Ideally, it should also “digest” household waste.
2. Time of ignition and start of heat transfer. It should be minimal due to the fact that if bad weather suddenly catches you, you need to warm up as soon as possible. Otherwise, close to pneumonia.
3. Dimensions. Usually a country house is small, which means that the stove should be small.
4. Profitability. A very important factor associated with the high cost of fuel delivery to the household plot.
5. Safety. This factor is especially important for wooden houses. During gardening and gardening, there is usually no one in the house. Therefore, the stove should not burn out and be fireproof even in cases of accidental violations of the furnace regime.
6. If no one lives on the plot in winter, then the stove must withstand long breaks between heatings in damp conditions.
7. It is desirable for the device to have a hob, especially in a small house, when it is not possible to place them separately.
8. Ease of manufacture. Experienced stove maker - expensive pleasure. Therefore, the design should be such that even an inexperienced craftsman can fold a brick stove for a summer residence with his own hands.

Thus, if 5-6 people live in a house on a personal plot, a brick oven is a must. Otherwise, for cooking, you can do with a conventional electric stove.

If there is no electricity in your gardening, then renting a diesel generator for a summer residence will help you.

We build a stove with our own hands

Usually country houses from block containers are designed together with a stove. But even if the house does not have a stove, it does not matter, it can be built in.

The instruction for the construction of such facilities reads:

1. If a high oven is planned, which has its own chimney or the planned number of bricks for the oven exceeds 500 pieces, then a separate foundation is required for it, which is not connected with the foundation of the building.
2. If a wide and low hob is planned, then there is no need to build a separate foundation under it if it is equipped with a heating shield. According to SNiP, such a shield must withstand a load of at least 250 kg / sq.m.

Advice. In such cases, it is highly desirable to strengthen the flooring under the shield with auxiliary lags.

1. The chimney must not come into contact with the wooden parts of the ceiling.

Note!
It is highly desirable that the distance from the cutting of the chimney to the nearest to it ceiling beams was about equal.

1. The chimney must be at least 1.5 m from the roof ridge. and rise above it by 0.5 m.

Choosing a place for construction

The choice of location is very milestone. The place should not only be convenient, but also chosen according to all requirements. fire safety. In addition, the location of the furnace must be chosen in terms of maximum efficient heating premises.

AT small rooms the stove is often placed in the corner, but in this case the opposite side of the room does not warm up well. Especially if there are entrance doors of a country house in the room. It is much more correct to build it into the wall between the kitchen and the room.

In this case, we immediately kill two birds with one stone - we heat the room and calmly cook in the kitchen. In addition, with this arrangement of the oven, kitchen aromas are cut off.

Start of construction

Before starting construction, a layer of waterproofing should be laid on the foundation. Often, roofing material is used for this, the price of which is low, but it is significantly inferior to special modern materials.

The first row of bricks is laid on top of the waterproofing. Since here we will have an ash compartment, which means there will be no high temperatures, then you can safely use the usual red brick.

Note!
Before laying, the brick must be soaked for 5-6 hours.

In general, it makes sense to use a special heat-resistant brick (chamotte, dinas) only in the case of lining the firebox. This is due to the fact that its thermal conductivity is significantly higher than that of a conventional furnace, which means that the furnace will warm up much longer. Not to mention the fact that its price is at least twice as high.

Advice. If you do not have sufficient experience in the construction of furnaces, use ready-made clay mortar for masonry.

We install a blower door on the first row of bricks and fix it with steel wire. At the bottom of the future ash pan, it is desirable to lay a sheet of steel 2-3 mm thick, taking into account its dimensions, so that later it would be more convenient to remove the ash.

We lay out the second and third rows taking into account the dimensions of the ash compartment, after which you can proceed to the installation of the internal metal frame. The height of the ash pan is usually calculated based on the height of the door plus 1-2 rows of bricks.

We build the middle part of the stove

The middle part is the most critical stage of work. We form a firebox on it, so show maximum care. It is in this place that we install a metal frame for laying grates through which the firebox communicates with the ash pan.

It is not necessary to install a metal frame in cases where you have the opportunity to provide grooves for grates in the masonry. To do this, make a markup in the masonry and cut the grooves with a grinder to fit the size of the product.

This simple operation will allow you to save money on a metal frame. After the grates are installed, we lay out 2 more rows of bricks and begin the formation of the chimney compartment.

Note!
The firebox is usually formed with a height of 3-4 bricks.
This is enough to use both wood and coal as fuel.

Installing the stove

It's not a secret for anyone that a do-it-yourself brick oven is not built from a floundering bay, but taking into account a ready-made plan. In this regard, the hob is purchased at the stage of preparation for construction and the size of the firebox is adjusted to its dimensions.

Before installing a cast-iron slab for a summer residence, a groove is cut out in a brick with a grinder, into which a rectangular frame is laid from a corner, welded exactly to the size of the slab. The frame is laid on the same mortar that we used for masonry. After that, you can lay the slab.

Next, we lay out the chimney according to the chosen order and you can deal with the cladding.

Finally

The stove in the country can be not only a product for cooking and heating, but also an element of a unique decor, as well as the pride of its creator. It is more than possible to build a brick oven for a summer house with your own hands. The most important thing is to show maximum care and clearly follow the technology and the project.

Well, the video in this article will allow you to get acquainted with all the subtleties and nuances of this process.

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Schemes of small brick ovens

Compact ovens do not take up much space which is especially important for small spaces. Heaters have rectangular section at the base. Height stoves depends on the height of the building and the model chosen. A brick chimney is often replaced with a factory-made steel pipe.

Heating and cooking mini-oven

In small ovens designed for heating the house and cooking, they build niche for stove.

In another niche located above the firebox, you can build oven, hot water container. Niche space is often used for drying things.

Consider a specific scheme of a compact stove with a size bases 0.64 x 0.51 meters (2 x 3.5 bricks) and 2.15 meters high (32 layers of masonry).

This heater model is designed for heating small and medium-sized houses with an area of from 25 to 40 square meters . Ceramic full-bodied (ordinary) brick is suitable for masonry.

The stove is built in the kitchen (in the middle of the room or against the wall). This oven has the following structural elements:

• combustion chamber;
• blew;
• smoke channels;
• hole for cleaning smoke channels;
• hole for building a chimney;
• a niche with a hob;
• niche for installing an oven or hot water tank.

metal heater elements buy in hardware store. To the list factory parts included:

• furnace door size 20 x 20 cm(solid cast iron or with refractory glass in a metal frame);

Photo 1. Furnace door measuring 30 by 30, made of polished cast iron and refractory glass. There is a possibility of regulation of draft.

• blower door ( 14 x 14 cm);
• 2 doors for cleaning smoke channels ( 20 x 14 cm);
• grate ( 45 x 25 cm);
• hob size 20 x 35 cm(with or without hole);
• 2 valves;
• steel angle profile length 50 cm(fastened between the furnace sheet and the furnace wall);
• pre-furnace metal sheet size 50 x 60-70 cm.

Oven and hot water tank welded from steel sheet. Under pre-furnace sheet put asbestos cardboard of the same size. For furnace work you will need:

• 222 units full-bodied red brick;
• finished masonry mixture for fireplaces and stoves (or a solution of sand and ordinary clay taken on the ground in a quarry).

Small heating device

Consider a specific heater circuit. Base This model has the shape of a rectangle with a size 0.89 x 0.51 meters (2.5 by 2 bricks). Height stoves - 2 meters 38 cm.

The compact dimensions allow the heater to be built in the corner or in the center of the room. If the cottage has a kitchen and a couple of living rooms with a total area up to 40 square meters, the heater is built into wall openings (interroom partitions).

Main elements this model:

• firebox;
• blew;
• smoke channels;
• chimney outlet.

A door with heat-resistant glass in a metal frame or a solid cast-iron door is built into the furnace portal. Furnace build on a solid foundation buried in the ground. The foundation is made solid or columnar.

Making a small stove for a summer residence with your own hands

In this example, we will consider in detail the preparatory and main work on the construction of a heating compact mini-oven in the country. Important points works are:

• choice of finished project;
• choice places in a country house for the construction of a stove;
• acquisition materials;
• purchase of metal details and accessories;
• kiln preparation tool, purchase or rental of power tools (grinders, vibrators);
• construction foundation;
• construction stoves.

Selecting a finished project

Main requirement to the heater - the ability to give off heat for several hours after heating. Of considerable importance is the rapid warming up of the house with economical fuel combustion. Choice also influence:

• weather region during the winter months and off-season;
• square country house and the number of heated rooms;
• price materials.

Photo 2. An example of a drawing of a small heating brick oven with dimensions. On the right is a sectional view, the order is indicated.

The choice of model is influenced owner's tastes. A well-built heating stove of this design can not only heat, but also decorate a country house.

materials

Choice quality materials allows you to build a reliable furnace. For work need:

• ceramic bricks ( 260 units);
• fireclay bricks ( 130 units);
• factory (ready) mixtures for furnace works (clay-sand and fireclay-sand).

When choosing a fireclay brick for a firebox, pay attention to the marking. bricks with letter "U" Made from recycled, recycled fireclay. They have lower strength values ​​compared to bricks with letter "SH".

Suitable for laying the lower and upper parts of the heater ordinary red brick. The quality of the material is judged by the presence of cracks, black spots from factory firing. If there are a lot of broken, cracked, burnt bricks in the batch, it is better to look for material in another store.

Mixes are bred water according to package instructions. They do not need to add salt, other ingredients.

The metal parts of the stove are purchased at a hardware store. For this design you will need:

• furnace door size 30 x 20 cm;
• blower door size 20 x 14 cm;
• 2 doors for cleaning holes - 20 x 40 cm;
• grate ( 40 x 23 cm);
• roofing material ( 60 x 100 cm), two segment;
• sheet steel size 50 x 70 cm;
• asbestos slate ( 50 x 70 cm);
• steel corner (rolled) length 50 cm;
• 2 oven valves size 13 x 13 cm.

To fix the doors in the masonry you will need 6 meters steel wire diameter 1-2 mm or steel strips ( 1.65 meters), bolts and long self-tapping screws.

Foundation preparation

The size of the foundation depends on the specific conditions of construction. Minimum thickness of the base for this model of a small furnace - 55-60 cm.

The foundation is built in such a way that it covered the freezing zone, a little rose above the floor or was equal to it. For construction, concrete, steel reinforcement, brick, rubble stone, sand, gravel, waterproofing roll material are used.

For a compact small oven, a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation is suitable. Installation and pouring in progress in the following order:

• A pit is dug in the ground, the dimensions of which exceed the perimeter of the future stove 10-20 cm on each side.
• The bottom of the pit is leveled and rammed.
• A layer of fine gravel is poured into the pit ( 22-25 cm), on it is a layer of medium-grained sand ( 15-17 cm).
• A pillow of loose stone is leveled and rammed.
• The pit is lined with roofing felt, roofing material, the docking points are coated with mastic made from bitumen, tar.
• Installed in a hole formwork to the desired height, a steel reinforcement grate is installed inside it.
• The pit is poured with concrete, a vibrodrill is used to compact and release air bubbles.
• After complete setting and drying of the cement, put on the base two waterproof layers from ruberoid.
• Two layers of oven bricks are placed on top of the roofing material (on mortar).

The construction of the brick oven itself

Before starting work, masonry mortars are kneaded. Brickwork is led to strictly horizontal surfaces. This parameter is checked at the foundation construction stage. Below is a description of the serial laying of a heating mini-oven.

1 row. According to the scheme, a brick is laid, forming a blower. The lower frame of the blower door is fixed to the blower portal.

2-3 rows. Laying according to the scheme.

4 row. Fixing the blower door in the masonry, masonry according to the scheme.

5 row. Furnace chamber layout. Installation of grate. Installation of the furnace door in the portal (laying fasteners in the seams).

6-9 rows. Laying the combustion chamber according to the scheme. Fastening the door holders into the seams.

10-12 rows. The lining of the combustion chamber.

13-15 rows. Masonry of the vault of the firebox, formation of the smoke channel of the furnace.

16-17 row. Masonry according to the scheme, embedding a door for cleaning the smoke channel. Sealing the door fasteners into the seams.

18-24 rows. Formation of smoke channels of the furnace.

25-26 row. Embedding a door for cleaning the smoke channel. Formation of smoke channels.

27 row. Channel laying.

28 row. Installation of the bottom valve, laying channels.

29-31 rows. Formation of channels, work according to the scheme.

Photo 3. The middle of the furnace construction process: the furnace is arranged, the formation of smoke channels begins.

32 row. Solid masonry, closing the vaults of channels, forming a chimney. Installing the top flap.

33-34 rows. Solid masonry with the formation of a chimney.

35 row. Construction of the first layer of masonry chimney.

Possible difficulties and problems

Inexperienced craftsmen do not use a frame of wooden beams and a plumb line when building oven walls, which leads to deviation of the walls from the vertical.

If during the construction process it was discovered skewed walls, the masonry should be disassembled and shifted.

After completion of work and natural drying, the mini-oven begins to be heated with small portions of firewood.

At the same time, the furnace walls cracked due to the fact that shrinkage processes are taking place in the heating structure. To eliminate cracks, dilute the solution and cover the seams.

Incorrect sealing of the door fasteners can lead to its displacement. To avoid skewed door, it is not left open until the fasteners are fully embedded in the seams. If the displacement is detected during the construction process, the rows are dismantled and the fasteners are closed again.

Useful video

Video in which the 3D model shows phased construction a small stove for a summer residence: for clarity, each row is painted with its own color.

Where is it more efficient and safer to place a small oven

To heating the stove effectively gave off heat, it is placed in the middle one-room dwelling or built in in interior partitions. Heating and cooking small stoves place in the center of the kitchen or against the wall.

The heating facility will safe, if in ceiling properly arranged section. A spark arrester is put on the chimney.

The combustion chamber is a source of increased danger. The oven is placed so that coals and sparks did not fall on the walls, in doorways, on furniture. Walls protect if necessary non-combustible materials(flat slate, ceramic tiles).

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Advantages and disadvantages of a brick oven in the house

So, let's try to understand why an old heating appliance is often more preferable than its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

• The body of the furnace is an excellent heat accumulator: Due to this property, a brick oven has to be heated much less frequently than a conventional steel and even cast iron one. Some varieties keep heat up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be thrown into the firebox of a metal stove every 4-6 hours.
• The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick oven more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal "substitutes". The fuel in it burns in the optimal mode - with the highest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The resulting excess heat is absorbed brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
• The outer surface of the furnace does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant odor). Of course, they cannot be poisoned, but they certainly cause harm to health.

• A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ones) emits steam when heated, and absorbs it again when it cools. This process is called kiln breathing. Thanks to him, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When using any other heating device that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel furnace has nowhere to put the excess heat, so it has to either be heated often, putting small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one tab of fuel increases, but it burns out with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other environmentally harmful substances - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to be convinced of this: a brick oven produces noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while black smoke constantly pours out of the chimney of a steel oven in which fuel is smoldering. Metal solid fuel heaters are deprived of this disadvantage. long burning(full-fledged, and not the so-called gas-generating furnaces, only simulating gas generation). But they are very expensive, have a complex design and need electricity, without which a brick oven can easily do.

What can be opposed to all of the above? The cooled room with a brick oven warms up for a long time. Therefore, homeowners are still advised to acquire an additional steel convector that will heat the air in forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be noted that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that should be built along with the house. And ideally, this should be done by an experienced master, who still needs to be found.

The use of brick ovens

The scope of application of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks that such a unit can solve:

1. Smoking meat and fish.
2. Remelting of scrap metal (cupola furnace).
3. Hardening and carburizing metal parts(muffle furnaces).
4. Firing of ceramic products.
5. Heating blanks in the blacksmith shop.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms, it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here she will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above scheme in different furnaces may be modified. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a stove is very simple to manufacture and its design can be easily adjusted to any room, but the maximum efficiency for it is only 40%.

Swedish unit

A very good option for a heating and cooking stove.

A very successful version of the heating and cooking stove. Its scheme is called chamber. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

• Efficiency at the level of 60%;
• in the oven, a heat exchanger can be installed on the side to heat the water that will be stored in storage tank on the roof of the furnace;
• gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar can be used for its construction;
• a convector with this shape heats the room to its full height as evenly as possible;
• near the Swedish oven, you can quickly warm up and dry out if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very high quality materials and need a foundation.

Bell-type furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

Such a mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complicated to manufacture (high loads take place in the design). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove bench

The scheme of the Russian stove, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. It does not include a convector.

The scheme of the Russian stove, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. The convector is not provided for in it. The owner of the Russian stove wins in the following:

• Efficiency reaches 80%;
• the building has an interesting appearance;
• become available for cooking such dishes of our national cuisine, which you can’t cook otherwise than in a Russian oven.

The Russian stove can be folded independently, if you clearly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General arrangement of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick array there is a chamber with a door in which the fuel burns - the furnace (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (pos. 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the furnace. Under the grates there is another chamber, called an ash pan or blower, which is also closed by a door (pos. 4 and 6). Through this door, outside air enters the furnace and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole at the rear wall, flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. Hailo ends with a constriction - a nozzle. This is followed by a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (pos. 16).

Walls gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). A door (pos. 18) is installed at its outlet, which is closed in summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

• cleaning door (pos. 12): the smoke channel is cleaned through it;
• valve for setting the combustion mode (pos. 15);
• view (pos. 17): it is also a valve, through which, after kindling, when all the carbon monoxide has already evaporated, the chimney is blocked in order to retain heat.

Thermal insulation surrounding the chimney in the crossing area attic floor and roofing, called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the overlap, the walls of the chimney are made thicker. This broadening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It does not allow rain moisture to penetrate into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other items:

• 1 and 2 - foundation with heat and waterproofing;
• 3 - legs or trenches: a stove with such elements requires less brick, besides, it has an additional heating surface from below;
• 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (ventilator), through which uniform heating of the room in height is achieved;
• 10 - furnace vault;
• 13 - the bend of the air convector, called the overflow or pass;
• 20 - overlapping of the furnace;
• 22 - attic floor.

Preparing for construction

Required materials, selection

When building a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

1. Construction ceramic brick (red). They lay out the lowest rows - the so-called underfire part (indicated by oblique hatching in the diagram), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Furnace ceramic brick. It is also red, but compared to the building one it has a higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Outwardly, they can be distinguished by their size: the dimensions of the oven are 230x114x40 (65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The furnace brick lays out the flame (furnace) part of the furnace, in the diagram it is indicated by hatching in a box.
3. Chamotte brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay bricks combine high heat capacity (it is a very “capacious” heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! Face brick in this case can not be used.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the furnace will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must necessarily be lined with oven bricks at least half a brick.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of the furnace. Often its quality is recommended to be determined by the depth of color, but this method is valid only for those products for which clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, then the color does not always give an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the figure, a qualitative sample is on the left). When tapping metal object high-quality fireclay bricks should make a sonorous and clear sound, and when they fall from a certain height, they break into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds to tapping, and when it falls, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

1. Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks, put on a conventional cement-sand mortar.
2. High-quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if irregular furnace firing is expected. The fact is that a dried clay solution with insufficient heating can be saturated with moisture and become sour again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique hatching with filling), a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used instead of clay. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
3. clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: mortars of excellent quality are obtained on the basis of sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
4. High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so its amount in the solution is sought to be minimized.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

• clay is soaked for a day, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
• dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
• after 4 hours of drying, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wrapped around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

We analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the mortar is considered suitable for masonry with a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; with deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

• trowel;
• pick hammer;
• cutting for seams;
• mortar shovel.

The stove-maker should have a rail-order. It has a section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening in the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By setting 4 orders at the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heater

The method for calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but there is simplified version proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m 2 of the furnace surface area, the following heat transfer values ​​are accepted:

• under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• in severe frosts, when the stove is heated especially intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in terms of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of ​​17.5 m 2, will produce 8.5 kW in normal mode, and 13.3 kW of heat in intensive mode. This performance will be enough for a house with an area of ​​80–100 m 2.

The calculation of the furnace is also very complicated, but today it is not necessary. Rather than design and manufacture a home-made firebox, it is better to buy a ready-made one in the store: it is already calculated according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

1. The firebox in size and location of fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
2. For a furnace that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded furnace made of sheet steel; for permanent use, you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
3. The depth of the ash shaft (lower narrowing of the firebox) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if the furnace is fired with coal or peat most of the time, and one fifth if wood fuel or pellets are the main one.

The cross section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical stroke, head height above the grate - from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the furnace, therefore, sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the furnace begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to make an accurate calculation by hand is to simply count the bricks in orders, which will only take about an hour. A more modern option is to simulate a furnace in one of the computer programs designed for this. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a place, schemes

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and the location of the various rooms in it. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will heat the entire building with high quality, and in the summer, with the window open, you can cook quite comfortably on it.

In a big house with permanent residence the oven can be positioned as follows:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a heat-resistant glass door.

And in this way, a brick oven can be installed in an economy class dwelling:

When considering the location of the oven, consider the following:

1. A structure with more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney must not come into contact with attic beams and roof rafters. In this case, it should be borne in mind that in the intersection area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe attic floor, it has a broadening, called fluff.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

1. A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating plate, can be installed without a foundation if the floor is capable of withstanding a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
2. In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations internal walls(including T-shaped). Wherein minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the foundation strips of the building is 1.2 m.
3. It is allowed to build a small Russian stove on a base of a wooden beam with a section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), based on the soil or rubble of the foundation of the building.

Preparatory work consists in laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation is built under it, it can be rubble. An ordinary oven (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the furnace by at least 50 mm.

The insulating "pie" is typed in the following sequence:

• roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
• basalt cardboard 4–6 mm thick or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
• then lay a sheet of roofing iron;
• it remains to lay the last layer - basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can begin only after the top layer has dried to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work on the floor in front of the future stove, it is necessary to build a fireproof coating, which is usually a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a coating must be at least 300 mm away from the oven, while its side edges must extend beyond the oven by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Masonry rules in accordance with the order

The stove is placed in accordance with the order (see Fig.).

Adhere to the following rules:

1. The seams between the bricks in the vault of the firebox and the underfire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upwards - up to a width of 5 mm, downwards - up to 2 mm.
2. Bandaging of seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry cannot be done - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, give the maximum thickness (5 mm).
3. The masonry must be carried out with dressing of the seams, that is, each seam must be overlapped by an adjacent brick at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The layout of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the furnace (for this you need to hammer nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and they are guided in the future.
5. Doors and shutters are fixed in the masonry by means of a binding wire laid in the seams, or with the help of clamps made of a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and flame dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In the fluff and otter, only the outer size of the chimney increases, the inner section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from bricks are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and properly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are advised to lay out the furnace part of the furnace in the formwork.
2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
3. It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with an asbestos cord.
4. Next, lay out the flame part, for which they use furnace and fireclay bricks.
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned with a brush from dust. Ceramic brick must be moistened by lowering it into a container of water, then shake it off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove-makers apply the solution with their hands, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer 3 mm thick with a trowel. The brick must be immediately laid correctly, without correcting or tapping. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after removing the mortar smeared on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying a few more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. Install the furnace door - in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
8. Spread the rows of the furnace part. If a low slab is being erected, then the row of bricks above the furnace door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast-iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or vault (in pure heating furnaces). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
10. Further, the laying of the furnace is continued according to the order, making out the gas convector system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it can be easily removed, the height of the lower inter-channel transitions (overflows) must be 30-50% higher than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes must be rounded off.

Having completed the construction of the body of the furnace, proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

Vaults are of two types:

• flat: arches of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat pallet is used. A flat vault has one feature: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove-makers with sufficient experience build this part of the furnace using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a template, also called a circle:

1. They begin with the installation of extreme support blocks - thrust bearings on the solution, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size.
2. After the solution dries, a circle is installed and the wings of the arch are laid out.
3. Keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the mortar is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without violations, this process will take place evenly throughout the arch.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular arch should not exceed 17 degrees. At standard sizes blocks, the seam between them inside (from the side of the firebox) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack with a width of only 2 mm in the area of ​​​​the valve will provide heat loss at the level of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.

You also need to heat the stove correctly. With a very open blower, from 15 to 20% of the heat can fly into the chimney, and if the furnace door is open during the combustion of the fuel, then all 40%.

The firewood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Raw firewood gives less heat, and besides, due to the abundance of moisture in them, a large amount of acid condensate is formed in the chimney, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to warm up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel bookmark to the top of the firebox, even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

Ignition of the bulk of the fuel is carried out with a torch, paper, etc. It is forbidden to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to cover the view so that the heat does not erode through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by the yellow color of the fire; if it turned white - the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances are released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including from soot)

Cleaning and repair of the furnace is usually carried out in the summer, but in the winter it will be necessary to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and with a large amount of it, the stove will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each firebox.

The draft in the furnace, and hence the mode of its operation, is regulated by a view, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the state of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any damage or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

The stove in a country house solves several problems at once. Firstly, with its help it is easy to maintain a comfortable temperature in the room, and secondly, it will allow you not to depend on the power supply and cook food in any conditions. But if there is a desire to cook food in the fresh air, then they often resort to building or buying a special oven. A do-it-yourself garden stove is not such a complicated design, so, listening to the advice experienced stove-makers, anyone can build it.

Types of stoves for the garden

There are several ways to classify, but in general, all furnaces can be divided into 2 groups:

• brick ovens;
• metal.

In turn, in each of these groups, several subspecies can be distinguished.

Yes, among metal furnaces stand out:

• unpretentious potbelly stoves, a garden small stove potbelly stove is suitable for heating a small room, as well as heating food;

Note!
Traditional potbelly stoves are made of sheet metal, so they heat up quickly and cool down just as quickly.
Therefore, they are not suitable for long-term heating of large rooms.

• purchased long-burning stoves- this option is distinguished by the division of the internal space into 2 zones, in one the fuel burns (rather not even burning, but smoldering), and in the second - the resulting gases burn out. Purchasable Options often equipped with hobs, so this is a good choice for giving, especially if the price of the stove is important, after all, its cost is less than the construction of a traditional Russian stove;

Note!
On one load of fuel, such "long-playing" stoves can work for several hours, so in terms of fuel economy, this is one of the best options.

As for, it all depends on the construction budget, and the design can be any. You can build both a simple barbecue on the street and a real Russian stove, exactly the same as those that were used 100 years ago.

Quite often, do-it-yourself brick garden stoves are built with several fireboxes at once. In this case, they can combine a Russian stove + barbecue + cooking stove, and a sink and a cutting surface are provided on the side. If such a design is being built in the house, then you can arrange a small fireplace to admire the open flame.

About the location of the stove

If the stove is not located in the house, but directly on the garden plot, then the following recommendations should be followed when choosing a location:

• there should be no flammable objects nearby;
• the prevailing wind direction must be taken into account. It is unlikely that the family will be happy if all the smoke is blown into the house or into the center of the site;
• since garden stoves are used for cooking, it is desirable that the distance to the house be small.

Not everything is so simple when placed in the house. If the stove in the garden house is located next to the inner wall, then discomfort is guaranteed. The cause of discomfort will be the circulation of chilled air from the outer wall to the furnace. So the effect will be rather negative.

The other extreme is the displacement of the structure to the outer wall, but this will cause problems with the chimney. In cold weather, condensation will form on the inside due to the temperature difference.

brick oven

This design is suitable for country houses, where people regularly visit. It can be placed both in the house and on the veranda or directly on the garden plot. Quite often, in order not to depend on weather conditions, they are built into the gazebo.

Such a garden stove with your own hands can be built quite quickly. The main time costs are due to the hardening of the foundation.

The whole structure can be divided into separate elements:

• foundation;

• woodcutter;
• firebox;
• chimney.

Foundation

It's definitely not worth saving on this item. If a metal stove for a garden is easy enough to put in the right place, then a brick stove will need a solid foundation because its weight can reach several tons. You also need to remember about the reinforcement cage (10-12 mm reinforcement will do).

At this stage, a foundation pit is dug under the foundation, a pillow is made of crushed stone and sand, a reinforcing cage is placed in the pit and the concrete mixture is poured. It is allowed to use foundations from under old buildings that have become unnecessary.

Note!
After the concrete foundation has hardened, a waterproofing layer is necessarily arranged on top of it.
And then comes the brickwork.

The erection of a woodcutter

For convenience, ordering is proposed for each design of the stove - then the location of the main elements is indicated not in cm from the base, but in a row of bricks. As for the woodcutter, it will occupy the first 7 rows in height.

At this stage, the only difficulty may be a brick arch, but this is solved using a template made of wood and plywood. You can make it yourself, for this, 2 curved guides are cut out of wood, and a sheet of plywood is attached to them.

Note!
In order for the seams between the bricks of the arch to be the same, it is recommended to stock up on the same wedges before laying, they are simply inserted between the bricks and removed after the mortar has set.

Firebox and chimney

In order to separate the woodshed from the firebox, a continuous floor is concreted flush with the surface of the brick of the 7th row. Asbestos-cement sheet is used for formwork. The curing time of the mixture is about 2 weeks.

Note!
In order for the stove to retain heat better, you need to enclose the firebox with sheets of vermiculite.
It is desirable to stick it only to the outer ceramic bricks.

Arched vaults are built using the same wooden template. Fireclay bricks are used for the inner surface of the furnace, it is also desirable to use a special mixture instead of the usual solution.

As for the dimensions, you can focus on approximately the following values:

• 16 row - arched vault of the furnace portal;
• 21 row - firebox arch;

• 27 row - valve installation;

• 28-29 row - concreting of the floor with a hole for the chimney.

Metal ovens

The main advantage of such stoves can be considered their simplicity and relatively low cost, especially in comparison with the brick Russian stove. They can be used not only in the garden, but also indoors, all that is needed for this is a flat, fireproof base.

Camping options are quite popular, for example, a garden cast-iron collapsible stove. Such designs, as a rule, are made in such a way that it can be taken with you if necessary. The most compact representatives of this class when packed are placed in a box measuring 5x40x40 cm (except for a cauldron for cooking).

Of course, it is difficult to call cast iron light if you wish, and the weight of such a compact box exceeds 20 kg, but mobility is beyond praise. AT assembled it is a metal rectangle with a firebox and a hole on top for installing a cauldron.

Note!
A cast-iron garden stove of this type can be equipped with a gas nozzle.
So if the dacha is gasified, then you don’t even have to collect fuel for cooking.

About the installation of metal furnaces

In the garden, this will not be a problem, you just need to find a relatively flat piece of land. But when you need to install a metal furnace for garden house with your own hands, you need to take into account the requirements of fire safety.

It is enough to adhere to the following rules:

• it is forbidden to install the oven on wooden base. It is advisable to either lay out a separate foundation for it, or organize another fireproof base. For example, attach asbestos-cement sheets to the floor and tile them;
• it is not recommended to install the stove near the walls. If necessary, the walls must be protected with heat-insulating screens from sheets of the same asbestos cement or vermiculite;

• special attention should be paid to the installation of the chimney, in particular to the places where it passes through the ceiling and roof. In these places, additional thermal insulation is needed.

In conclusion

Currently, the choice of garden stoves is quite large. Fans of the classics can stop at a massive brick structure, but other options are also possible. For example, a metal garden stove-fireplace copes well with the duties of not only a stove, but also a fireplace, while requiring minimal installation labor.

In any case, before choosing, you need to familiarize yourself with the strengths and weaknesses of all types of stoves, and the information in this article will help you make the right choice. The video in this article, as an example, considers the option of a brick garden, hob and even a bread chamber.

Most domestic holiday villages do not yet have the opportunity to connect to centralized communications. From the infrastructure it is good if there are paved roads and power lines. In such conditions, the construction of a brick oven for wood-fired cottages will help solve an important problem: it will provide thermal energy for space heating and cooking.

We have selected for you schemes and arrangements of the simplest furnace structures, which a novice master can handle with laying. With our help, home craftsmen will easily master the basics of a difficult, but extremely interesting activity stove-maker. An impeccably built structure will delight both the owner and the household.

In addition to a detailed description of the technology of laying brick stoves, we provide valuable recommendations on the selection of materials for the construction of units. Significant subtleties and the smallest nuances are scrupulously spelled out in the article. To help independent stove builders, schemes of stove structures, orderly briefing, photo and video guides are attached.

Competent selection of material for a structure subjected to high-temperature exposure is an important part of the work of a trained stove-maker. After all, the unit will be operated in far from simple conditions, while it should not malfunction, crack and collapse.

In order to determine the purpose and location of these same components, we briefly describe them.

How independent construction brick oven includes:

• Foundation. A supporting structure buried in the ground or arranged in a dry underground, made of rubble stone or brick. For small country stoves the foundation is often made monolithic of reinforced concrete.
• Array. This part of the brick kiln includes the body of the unit together with the furnace, stove appliances and smoke circuits - brick channels laid out in the body of the kiln to increase heat transfer. In addition, a lining is made inside the furnace - a lining of refractory bricks.
• Chimney. A brick oven is equipped with a channel folded from the same material, because. only it can transport flue gas with temperatures up to 500-700º without destruction. Ceramic blocks can be used instead of bricks.

Steel and asbestos-cement pipes are not suitable for chimneys of brick ovens. They “burn out” in a couple of years, therefore they require regular replacement.

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The listed parts of the furnace perform different functions, experience an ambiguous load and the degree of temperature exposure. Because for their device they use different brands bricks and different binders.

For laying a brick oven, the following materials will be required:

• Red solid brick. It is needed for the construction of a furnace array with smoke circulations, cuttings and the outer part of the furnace. You will need a burnt first-class brick, the technical qualities of which are regulated by GOST 530-2012.
• Refractory refractory brick. This brick is used for lining the firebox of stoves and laying the "hearth" - the foundation of Russian stoves. The technical qualities of the refractory material are regulated by GOST 8691-73.
• Sheet roofing steel, asbestos plywood, tiles(clinker facing tiles, tiles). These materials are needed for the outer lining of the stove portal.
• Heat-insulating non-flammable materials. These are asbestos-cement slabs, synthetic-based mineral wool mats, asbestos cardboard, building felt impregnated with clay diluted in water. The materials listed are required for fire retardant insulation and cladding.

For insulation and cladding, it is unacceptable to use thermal insulation materials containing bitumen or bitumen-containing ingredients.

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Brick for laying the stove should be carefully selected, scrupulously checking each unit for cracks, chips, shells, foreign inclusions. All elements must be evenly colored and fired.

Used brick, cleaned of mortar after dismantling the destroyed buildings, is allowed to be used in the laying of parts of the unit remote from the furnace. For example, it is quite suitable for the construction of the lower rows of the furnace foundation.

It is not allowed to use in laying bricks contaminated with flue condensate obtained during the dismantling of old stoves.

The composition of the binding materials used in the laying of a heating or cooking and heating structure made of bricks is also ambiguous.

You will need the following solutions:

• Clay mortar. It is needed for the construction of the main working part of the structure - the furnace array.
• A mixture of refractory clay with sand. Required when laying refractory bricks, for example, when constructing a cooking section, a compartment for a built-in boiler or a recess for an oven.
• Chamotte masonry mixture. Composition of refractory clay with sifted mountain sand. It is used when laying refractory bricks, i.e. when lining the firebox or when arranging the base of the furnace of a Russian stove.
• Lime-cement or lime-sand mortar. You will need a part of the chimney located within the attic in the device.
• Cement or lime-cement mortar. It is necessary for the construction of the part of the chimney that rises above the roof.

The composition of the binder solution used in the construction of foundations for furnaces depends on the moisture content of the enclosing soils. If the base is buried in low-moisture rocks, a lime-sand mortar will be required. To build a foundation in wet soils, you need a cement mortar.

The clay-sand mixture is prepared independently, although there are now a lot of ready-made masonry compounds on sale, including a mixture of kaolin or red clay with sand. In self-preparation, the fat content of clay should be taken into account, i.e. the presence or absence of tangible grains of sand in it.

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In fat clay, fine particles predominate, in lean clay there is sand, which reduces the plasticity of the rock. You can not add sand to lean clay at all. The ratio is usually selected empirically, mixing rocks and achieving optimal plasticity of the solution.

When using oily clay, the proportions of it and sand in the mixture can reach 1: 4, but no more. It may well be less. The proportion of sand usually varies, the proportions are selected at the site so that the mortar does not crack when dried and does not change in volume.

A solution of clay with sand, intended for self-laying the stove, is prepared in advance. Not more than a day, but not less than three hours. Natural ingredients must be prepared for mixing. Sand must be sifted through a sieve with cells up to 1.5 mm, clay must be rubbed through a mesh with cells up to 4 mm. There should be no organic inclusions in the prepared mass.

Using building mixtures factory production in manufacturing exactly follow the instructions attached by the manufacturer to their product.

We will analyze three options for the construction of brick ovens for summer cottages, the construction of which is quite realistic to handle with your own hands. Consider universal and heating structures an extremely simple device that can be quickly and easily cleaned even with irregular firing.

You can read about the most popular types of brick ovens in.

Option # 1 - a stove with a single burner panel

This is an extremely simple and compact design, as if elongated in the vertical direction. In the example, it is equipped with a door with heat-resistant glass, which allows you to monitor the process. If it is not possible to purchase just such a door, a cast-iron variety is quite suitable.

The oven can be made in two versions: in the universal version - with a hob designed for cooking hot dishes, in the heating version - without a hob chamber

The width of a small-sized brick structure is 510 mm, which allows it to be placed without problems in traditionally small country houses. The depth of the stove is 640 mm, while the depth of the furnace does not exceed 500 mm. The height of the structure is 2150 mm, the height of the chimney is determined by the position of the pipe relative to the ridge.

An oven is provided, which can be replaced with a drying chamber or a tank for preparing hot water. The presence of functional compartments not only allows you to cook delicious hot dishes in the country, but also increases the heat transfer of a brick structure.

The air heated by the stove and flue gases during the operation of the stove rush upwards, pass along the rear wall of the cooking compartment, and then flow into the chimneys and further into the chimney. Thermal energy in this building is used to the maximum.

The narrow, vertically oriented design occupies a minimum of space in a country house, but does an excellent job of heating the space.

The described brick structure includes 31 rows of flat-laid bricks. In order for the design to serve flawlessly, the following orders must be followed exactly.

During the masonry, it is necessary to constantly check the horizontalness of the structure being erected and check the size of the diagonals of the laid out sides. There are strict requirements for the thickness of the seams, which must be strictly taken into account. The maximum thickness of the seams when laying the hull and smoke ducts cannot exceed 5 mm, while lining - 3 mm.

For self-laying this furnace design orders have been developed and material consumption has been calculated, which is a tangible help to independent builders

In the presented order, the foundation for the stove is not indicated, the specifics of the construction of which are presented. It is poured or built of brick according to standard rules. We will assume that the foundation has already been erected, and we will proceed to the direct laying of the stove.

No comments are needed for laying the first three rows, everything is extremely simple there. In the 3rd row we put the door for the blower, in the 5th we put grate. We put the firebox door in front of the 6th row device: we temporarily fix the frame with the door with wire braces and immediately support it with two side bricks.

At this stage, the blower door is installed, the grate is laid and the firebox door is mounted. In the 11th row they put a cast-iron hob

Next, follow the ordering instructions up to the 11th row. After laying it, we lay a metal corner or a steel strip, stepping back from the rear edge of the already constructed part of the structure exactly one brick wide. This is necessary to install the hob.

After installing the hob, we continue laying, strictly following the instructions of the orders. Starting from the 12th and following to the 15th row, we simultaneously build the walls of the rear smoke channel and the cooking compartment.

At this stage of the construction of a brick stove, a cooking chamber and a chimney are formed, located behind its rear wall.

Upon completion of the laying of the 15th row, we put metal corners or put a slate sheet. They will serve as the basis for the upcoming solid masonry.

In the 17th row we put and fix the door of the cleaning chamber. We spread it up to the 22nd row. The result should be a hollow section connected to the smoke channel.

At the third stage of the construction of the stove, the oven is installed and bricked, as well as the installation of chimney dampers

In the 24th row, along the inner edges of our structure, we lay out asbestos trimmings. Next, we wrap the body of the oven with an asbestos rope, after which we put it on the stove, leaning on the scraps. The asbestos rope will perform the function of thermal insulation, and at the same time protect the device from burning out.

From the 24th to the 27th row, we cover the oven with bricks, observing the thickness of the seams regulated by the rules.

In the 28th row we put a door through which we will clean the chimney. We fix it as it should be with two bricks on the sides and continue construction.

In the 29th and 31st rows we arrange channels for chimney valves. We simply lay them down and carry out further laying, without connecting the devices with bricks with mortar. Then from the 32nd row we build a chimney.

Option # 2 - stove for heating adjacent rooms

We unconditionally refer this design to heating units. It is not equipped with a hob with burners and an oven. But it perfectly warms up several adjacent rooms, in which it is part of the interior partition.

A stove without a hob and an oven is used as a heating unit. It is installed so that no more than three adjacent rooms are heated.

The design, like the previous type, is compact due to the elongation in height. It is only 510 mm wide and 890 mm deep.

The height of the heating stove without a chimney is 2380 mm, which is equal to 35 rows of bricks laid.

We will divide the ordinal guide for laying the heating type of a country brick stove into three conditional parts. We will assume that the foundation for it has already been erected in accordance with general rules.

The laying orders from the 1st to the 12th rows represent the construction scheme with the installation of a blower door, a grate and the arrangement of a firebox

The first third shows the ordering schemes from the 1st to the 12th row. We build the starting rows with special care, because. we will focus on them in the future. In each row, we check the equality of the diagonals, building level control the verticality of the rows.

In order for the walls to be strictly horizontal, we will periodically check them during laying with a plumb line. In case of deviation, it is necessary to immediately correct the errors until the solution has time to set and begins to harden.

Laying the 1st row is carried out on a roofing material laid in two rows, roofing felt or similar waterproofing material. For convenience, we fix the waterproofing with a binder solution and mark on its surface the outline of the stove under construction.

In the 2nd row we put a frame with a blower door and proceed to the construction of a chimney. In the 5th row we put a grate, which is the overlap of the blower. In the 6th row we put a frame with a furnace door and fix it with two bricks on the sides at once.

From the 5th to the 15th row, we carry out the masonry with fireclay refractory bricks, thanks to which it is possible not to carry out the lining, which, in fact, would significantly reduce the volume of an already small firebox.

After laying the 16th row in the formed recess in the 15th row, we strengthen its bottom with a cement-sand mortar.

This is necessary to strengthen the bottom of the chamber designed to clean the smoke channels. Then in the 16th row we put the cleaning door.

At the third stage of the construction of a brick heating structure, further laying of vertical smoke channels, a second cleaning chamber, as well as installation of furnace valves is carried out

After we cover the cleaning door and form this chamber, at the same time we continue to build vertical channels for the chimney up to the 24th row.

Next, we proceed to the third stage of masonry. In the 25th row, we begin the construction of the second cleaning chamber. We again strengthen the bottom of the previous row with a clay-cement composition, put another door and continue to build a chimney.

In the 28th and 32nd rows, we lay the valves, which are used as draft regulators. We report the oven array up to the 35th row, in order to proceed with the construction of the chimney after it.

Option # 3 - a stove with a shield and a low trestle bed

A very practical design with a low brick bench, which serves as a heated bed in Russian huts. The construction is more complicated than the previous options, but more practical, because. includes a heating unit, partially furnished, and a hob.

This furnace design also has two options for solving the overlap. The differences are confined to rows 5 and 6, 5a and 6a. In the second variant, a steel corner is placed on the corner of the upper row

In order for the shield of the heating part of the stove to be 1020 mm wide, protrusions are formed on both sides. If you plan to increase heat transfer, the number of smoke turns can be increased to 5 pieces. For normal operation of this design, it is imperative to turn the chimneys above the stove.

This stove has two solutions, the differences of which are determined in rows 5 and 6, as well as in 5a and 6a. The second solution involves installing a steel corner on the corner.

For this design of a brick oven, there are developed orders, the material consumption necessary for the construction of a universal structure has been calculated. If the use of a summer valve is not expected, it is closed with a brick

The dimensions of the bed are selected individually. It may not be a solid brick structure with chambers for heating and cleaning, but a kind of trestle bed on pillars instead of legs.

Between the posts you need to leave holes with a width of 120 mm. However, a building with chambers retains heat better.

This furnace is recommended to be built on monolithic foundation, on which sheet asbestos is placed before the construction of the stove. Fireclay refractory bricks are used only in the arrangement of the furnace as a lining. Usually the firebox is built one brick below the installation level of its door.

The lining is carried out with a brick installed on the edge. The orders given for the construction of this stove will not be described in detail, because. the reader is already aware of legend and the specifics of the construction of stoves.

This stove is suitable for both summer and winter use. In the summer they cook food on it, in the winter they not only cook, but also heat up and dry, and treat colds

It is important to follow the given order schemes, as well as strictly adhere to the proportions and compositions of the binder solutions used in the construction of brick stoves.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video #1 A video to help independent stove-makers, the material presents a visual order of the heating stove:

Video #2 A detailed guide for the construction of a heating and cooking unit according to ready-made orders, but with some changes from the contractor:

When choosing a design for your own construction of a stove for a summer residence, you must take into account your own capabilities and skills. It is possible that someone will consider the options we have proposed to be unnecessarily complex or simple. In any case, the information provided will help to get an idea about the furnace structures in order to use it yourself or control the actions of the hired stove workers.

If you had to build a brick stove for your summer cottage yourself, please share photos of your own designs. Perhaps you know some subtleties that we did not take into account in our article? Tell our readers about them - leave comments in the block below.

© When using site materials (quotes, images), the source must be indicated.

How a do-it-yourself outdoor stove is built is a topical issue both for residents of non-gasified regions, and for inhabitants of quite civilized places. The first are interested in the opportunity to cook food in the warm season using waste fuel (deadwood, dead wood, building chips) - the brownie does not differ in efficiency in the summer, and it becomes very hot in the house during the preparation of dinner. The second is the opportunity to sit by the fire in the gazebo or on the lawn in the recreation area at the dacha or in your own plot, having prepared barbecue or barbecue ribs at the same time, without paying a mind-boggling amount for a turnkey branded garden stove. Both of them are also attracted by the opportunity to get home-smoked meats, which are obviously not falsified and are much cheaper than purchased ones.

What to build?

To begin with, let's see what kind of stove it is possible to build on the street, taking into account the fact that it will not be heated intensively and irregularly, but it will be exposed to climatic influences, it will freeze in winter, and it will be difficult to supply it with a high chimney. But the danger from the spread of carbon monoxide from an outdoor stove is reduced to the minimum possible, although it is not completely eliminated, especially in the gazebo, under a canopy and in calm weather. Do not forget about this: there is no stove that could be heated at random, without fear of intoxication. Eel can be, and just sitting by the fire.

With these circumstances in mind, the choice of outdoor stove design is not so wide. The simplest garden stove is a well-known rough or coarse stove. She can look terrifying, pos. 1 in Fig., but you can heat it with anything combustible and it works properly, almost regardless of the quality of the materials used and the work: when building a rough one, you can use a simple red working brick or stones from the surrounding area on an ordinary cement-sand masonry mortar, t .to. microcracks in the masonry have almost no effect on the technical performance of this furnace. See, for example, below the video of how a 5-year-old child built a rough stove, which his family uses successfully and can also be smoked on. Which, by the way, not every oven allows, see below.

Video: a simple rough oven, a design accessible to a child

An outdoor stove at a weekend cottage is often a barbecue grill, pos. 2. Although, as we will see later, in fact, this is not a barbecue at all. It takes about the same or less brick for such a stove as for a rough one (about 200 pieces), and in the same way you can use a red working brick, but the masonry mortar, due to the slenderness of the structure, so to speak, needs a stove for the street (see . further, about technology and materials).

On the basis of the brazier, the so-called. Finnish outdoor brick oven, which is a hearth, brazier or barbecue attached to a rough stove, pos. 3. In fact, Finnish in such a furnace is only that the Finns were the first to guess to release them in the form of a set - building instructions with detailed instructions and orders, dry mix for preparing masonry mortar, embedded parts, fittings. Now domestic kits for building an outdoor brick oven are also sold in the Russian Federation. Sometimes the set also includes bricks; if necessary - trimmed / trimmed and numbered. A set for a Finnish outdoor stove is inexpensive, and building a stove from it is within the power of a completely inexperienced person, thanks to which Finnish outdoor stoves from the set are very popular, see for example. track. video clip.

Video: Finnish outdoor oven

Note: a stationary smokehouse is also often attached to a wood stove, pos. 4. But in the process of using it, it turns out that in the cooking mode the stove is rather voracious, and the quality of smoked meats is slightly above average. Why and how to combine an outdoor stove with a smokehouse, we'll talk further.

Even less often in the areas there is an outdoor fireplace, pos. 5. The reason is limited functionality: you can admire the flame and cook something like on a simple hearth, although the material and labor intensity of an outdoor fireplace is quite high. The Russian stove is built on the street (pos. 6) even less often. The culinary qualities of products and dishes from the Russian oven are well known, but a small Russian oven needs 2500 bricks, a large one - 3500, the design is very complex and it is not easy to protect it from bad weather. For the same reasons, Neapolitan (pos. 7) and Sicilian ovens for pizza and pastries are not very common in private households; in addition, these are rather narrowly specialized devices.

Note: much more attention for summer cottages and picnic trips deserves the so-called. mobile oven-rocket, pos. 8. Rocket furnaces -. Here we only recall that rocket stoves exist in 2 guises - a luxury item that allows you to get a warm stove bench at home without building a Russian stove, and a light compact device on which you can quickly cook dinner, costing a minimum amount of waste fuel. The degree of heating of the cookware in the latter case is regulated as precisely as in a gas stove.

Cooking questions

In order to correctly make the stove you like, and before that, to choose the right design, you need to know exactly what kind of outdoor stove can. Therefore, before the technical and construction aspects, you will have to be distracted by culinary issues.

Oven or smokehouse?

The oven and smokehouse are completely different devices. The furnace is required to “squeeze out” as much heat as possible from the fuel load and not let it dissipate into space in vain. Therefore, furnaces are designed (perhaps intuitively, based on the experience of generations) for afterburning fuel to the final products of combustion - carbon dioxide and water vapor.

What is required, on the contrary, is not high thermal efficiency, but as much smoke as possible. But not just smoke that eats eyes. First, smoking smoke should ideally be free of particulate matter from unburned fuel. The end product should be smoked and not crusted with soot. Anyone who has seen how a good industrial smokehouse works, probably noticed that in the area where the products are loaded, the smoke is almost invisible there.

Secondly, smoke for smoking should not contain substances harmful to health. It is impossible to organize this chemically when burning fossil fuels, so smokehouses are built in such a way that harmful impurities either “slip” past the smoked one, or are neutralized and settle before it.

There is an important point here: within a temperature range of approx. It is extremely undesirable to smoke 35-50 degrees, because. it is at such temperatures that the probability of acid condensate precipitation is high; it is formed as a result of the interaction of chemically active particles of unburned fuel, the so-called. free radicals, with water vapor and atmospheric oxygen. An acidified product is not only disgusting in taste, but also dangerous to health. Therefore, a trace is distinguished. types of smoking:

• Cold - the temperature in the smokehouse is up to 35 degrees. Food preparation - salting in brine (a saturated solution of table salt) and soaking immediately before loading into the smokehouse. Smoking time - from 5-6 days; breaks are not allowed. Taste qualities finished products the highest; keeping quality without the use of means and methods of additional preservation can be calculated for months and years.
• Semi-hot (semi-cold) - smoking temperature 60-70 degrees. Preparation of products - short soaking in brine. The term of smoking until ready is 0.5-2 days. Taste qualities are very high; the taste and bouquet are similar to those of cold-smoked products. Keeping quality up to a month; usually up to 5 days.
• Hot - at a temperature of 85-120 degrees. Product preparation is not required. Smoking time - 1-5 hours. The palatability is very high, but the taste and aroma are not the same as those of cold-smoked products. Keeping quality without additional preservation up to 36 hours.

Given the above, we can conclude that, firstly, a smokehouse for an outdoor stove should be a separate device. Any oven is not a smoke generator for smoking and it is impossible to set up the smoking process from the oven only by loading fuel and supplying air to the furnace, you also need to select the length of the flue from the exit from the oven to the smoking chamber. Secondly, a simple stove with a low efficiency and a smoke tooth is best suited for supplying smoke to a smokehouse, see below.

Grill, barbecue and barbecue

Open flames are the enemy of any cooked food. Burning is only the visible and palpable "tip of the iceberg": the effect of high temperature on food products causes the hydrolysis of fats, the breakdown of carbohydrates and the deep denaturation of proteins, which saturate the food with substances that are very unhealthy. In simple solid fuel cooking ovens, direct contact of the food being cooked with the flame is avoided in various ways. What they have in common is that the food is not only baked, but also smoked, which is why, with proper preparation, its taste improves.

Grill

The hearth stove, which is usually called, is actually a classic Anglo-Saxon grill, the scheme of which is given on the left in fig. The confusion arose in Canada, where French and English intermingled. The device of the grill follows from the Anglo-Saxon culinary traditions, the essence of which is exaggerated, but accurately stated by Stubb from Melville's novel Moby Dick: "You must take a piece of meat, from a distance for a moment show it a slightly smoldering coal and immediately serve the steak to me!" Remember "roast-beef bloody" from "Eugene Onegin"? In restaurants, baked meat is still offered rare - half-raw with blood, medium - baked until soft, juicy, like a barbecue, and well done - crispy in a fried crust.

Note: suddenly you will be brought to the southwest of the United States, the menu may contain something incomprehensible - hanaban (pronounced hanaban). This is a shish kebab in spices, taken from a skewer, something like an Arab khusal.

The grill is suitable for cooking meat and rare, and medium, and well done. This is achieved by placing the grate with the product at different levels above the brazier with coals. Coals flare up rarely, tk. are scattered in a thin layer along a deaf hearth and air access to them is limited. If they flare up, then the piece is simply pushed aside.

Brazier

Rare meat can be very tasty, but in southern countries, where pathogens of various diseases feel great, it is very dangerous. In addition, in many countries of the South, pork is not eaten at all, and beef and lamb are rarely harsh. From here follows the design of the brazier (in the center in the figure): a perforated bottom and partly the walls of a deep tray, a thick layer of coals. The meat is heated not only by thermal radiation, but also by a stream of hot air.

B-B-Q

In a real French barbecue (oh, those pampered paddling pools!) thermal radiation does not participate at all in cooking. The design of the barbecue oven turns out to be quite complex (on the right in the figure), but reliable and multifunctional:

• Thanks to a separate cooking chamber with a hood, wind and outside temperature hardly affect the quality of the finished product.
• If you close the portal of the chamber with a damper lid, as in a Russian stove, the chamber turns into a semi-hot or hot smoked smokehouse.
• The oven can be used to bake bread, roast pots, etc. If smoking a dish is undesirable, it is cooked in a container with a tight lid.
• A firewood shed and a dryer are conditional concepts. Here and there you can dry mushrooms, berries, fruits that require different drying regimes. Additionally, it is regulated by dampers.

Note: pay attention to the protrusion of the hearth, which does not completely enclose the firebox from the oven. This is the so-called. a smoke tooth or gooseneck is a radical means to reduce the dependence of the technical performance of any outdoor stove on weather conditions, see below.

Constructions of street ovens

Not just a stove

The simplest outdoor stove is a 2-burner stove with a tunnel firebox, divided by a smoke tooth into a flame (the firebox itself) and a smoke chamber, the diagram on the left in the figure:

Fireboxes of house stoves with a smoke tooth are not made: it reduces the efficiency of the stove and increases the risk of carbon monoxide emission. However, for a summer outdoor stove, both are unimportant, but the smoke tooth in its firebox:

1. Reduces the dependence of the furnace mode on the direction and strength of the wind;
2. Allows you to load low-calorie waste fuel into the furnace;
3. It allows you to heat water on a small burner in the wind and cold and cook the first course in a tall dish, because. on the pass above the goose, a high temperature develops from a fiery chamber into a smoke chamber and a large amount of heat is released;
4. It makes it possible, under a certain firing mode (see below), to start the stove with a smokehouse, in this case the smoke chamber works as an afterburner of a smoke generator.

The height of the passage between the top of the gooseneck and the stove that forms the hob is usually approx. 70 mm. However, the goose needs to be set up, which is not difficult: it is laid out in a ready-made brick oven (may not be hewn) without dressing and even dry. Depending on the size ratio of the furnace, the diameter and height of the chimney, the optimal clearance between the flue tooth and the roof of the furnace may be 15-20 mm, as, for example, in the photo on the right. If uniform heating of both burners is required, then the goose is placed not under the rear, but between the burners, but in no case under the front - the stove will smoke heavily and will not heat up.

About smokehouses for the oven

Schemes of smokehouses for a 2-burner stove with a smoke tooth are shown on the right on the previous page. rice. The height of each is 1-1.5 m; other sizes can be taken proportionally. Chimney diameter - 130-150 mm. The mesh filter is designed to trap soot and must be cleaned before each load of food. Nevertheless, it is highly desirable to wrap the products loaded into these smokehouses with 3-4 layers of rare gauze.

In all respects, a smokehouse with a side entrance of smoke is better. Firstly, it allows you to produce not only hot, but also semi-hot smoking; the length of the flue from the oven to the smokehouse is conveniently adjusted by connecting them with a thin-walled metal corrugated hose. Secondly, an ordinary baking sheet is suitable for collecting fat in it, and in a smokehouse with a lower smoke supply, there should be an opening with a shell in the baking sheet. It’s impossible to let fat drain under the smokehouse: you won’t pull it off later, it stinks terribly and transfers its ambergris to the products.

Note: the chimney of the smokehouse must be equipped with a wind cap. To avoid acid dew in the smokehouse, do not smoke in cold, damp and windy weather.

advanced cooker

A 2-burner stove with a smoke chamber does not have to look like a primitive fire pit unearthed by archaeologists. It can be multifunctional and technically perfect, i.e. economical. Drawings and ordering of an improved outdoor slab for a summer residence and a country house are shown in fig. Although the construction is rather complicated for a beginner, it only takes approx. 200 oven bricks.

This design uses technical solution, first used in a Swedish stove: firebox and smoke chamber are separated by an oven instead of a smoke tooth; the gas tunnel above it is highlighted in red. In such a furnace structure, there is no place for a woodcutter, but in return:

• The oven mode stabilizes in almost any weather from early spring to late autumn.
• Thermal efficiency - over 65%, like a good cooking and heating stove.
• It is possible to use a chimney with a height of only 1.2 m above the level of the hob.
• The heating of the burners is almost uniform and strong.
• The large smoke chamber is an efficient afterburner, which releases enough heat to heat the hot water tank.
• Soot precipitation in the smoke chamber during combustion with waste fuel is plentiful. Therefore, the presence of a cleaning hatch with a door is mandatory, but on the other hand, the stove mates with the smokehouse without any problems.
• The danger of waste from such a stove is no higher than from a Swede stove or any other house stove. Therefore, this stove can be used as a brownie for a small room; then, instead of a smokehouse, it is constantly mated with a heating shield.

The laying of an improved street slab is made on a clay-cement mortar for outdoor stoves with a moisture-resistant cutting of the seams, see below. In the smoking mode, this stove is heated from the blower with the firebox door tightly closed. Fuel - shavings or a thin splinter (not wood chips!) Of a deciduous tree, except for birch, albeit completely healthy. Otherwise, the products will acquire a nasty taste of birch tar. The side exit to the chimney, in addition to the convenience of pairing with the smokehouse, eliminates the loss of acid condensate in the oven.

Fireplace grill, barbecue and barbecue

Here in fig. given the ordering of a simple outdoor fireplace stove, which can be successfully used as a grill; kiln brick is indicated in red, chamotte in orange. A tent over the hearth reduces the dependence of the quality of cooked food on weather conditions. Rows 1-12 make up the woodcutter, its height can be reduced to save material and work. The woodshed is covered with a reinforced concrete or stone slab 40-80 mm thick, on which the furnace structure itself is erected (rows 13-35). Row 25 on the facade rests on a pair of mortgages from a 40-mm steel angle.

On the trail. rice. - ordering an outdoor barbecue oven (more precisely, a grill) with hob. It is more difficult than the previous one, because arched furnace portal (rows 17-22). The arch is laid out in circles, as in the construction of a Russian stove. Such a barbecue oven will cost much cheaper than the previous one, because. it has 8 rows of masonry less and fireclay bricks are not used. However, the possibilities of using this stove as a fireplace are very limited: the steel hearth from a regular firebox will burn out pretty soon. Cooking well-done meat in this oven will also fail: due to the high thermal conductivity of the steel hearth, the coals will either go out too quickly, or, if they are piled in a thick layer, they will flare up and burn the product.

Finally, on the trail. rice. - a complex, expensive and time-consuming, but multifunctional and efficient outdoor barbecue grill with a 2-burner hob; yellow indicates clay-sand filling, as between the arch and the bench of the Russian stove. Upper smoke threshold (rows 15-20 on section B-B) acts similarly to the smoke tooth of a classic English fireplace. In the niche between it and the portal (highlighted in pink), you can smoke products during other culinary processes: in order for acid condensate to fall out in such a pocket, you need to bake in completely disgusting weather and load it with completely disgusting fuel.

Technology issues

Base

Under the foundation of an outdoor stove, they dig a pit on a shovel bayonet (30 cm). First, an anti-heaving sand cushion with a thickness (thickness) of 15 cm is poured into the pit and rammed, and crushed stone backfill is used along it to the ground level. The backfill is carefully leveled to the horizon. Removal of the sides of the pit for the contour of the furnace in the plan - from 400 mm.

Further, if the foundation of the furnace is a ready-made concrete monolith, foundation slab just put on gravel. If the foundation is poured with one's own hands, a formwork 80-150 mm high is made for its pouring. Reinforcement - standard 2-level. Solution - from M250. It is impossible to lay the foundation of the furnace flush with the ground: it will soon become clogged with soil and its “chemistry” will spoil the lower rows of masonry, which is tantamount to re-laying the entire furnace. In order not to stumble over the threshold of the foundation, a gentle pavement is made along its contour from curb stone or cement-sand mortar.

If the stove is built in the gazebo, on the veranda and in general on wooden floor sufficient bearing capacity, the removal of the base of the furnace must be done according to the fire safety rules: from 600 mm from the side of the furnace door and from 300 mm on the other sides. Asbestos cardboard from 4 mm thick or basalt mineral cardboard from 6 mm is placed on the floor, then a sheet of roofing iron. Iron flooring is moistened with a liquid clay solution, felt or basalt cardboard is laid on it and impregnated with the same solution. The laying of the furnace structure begins when the clay impregnation is completely dry.

Brick

For an outdoor stove, it is exactly the stove brick that is needed: dense, well-annealed. A rough stove or a 2-burner stove with a smoke tooth, in which the firebox does not get very hot, can be built from red working bricks, incl. hollow - the stove from it warms up faster and loses less heat in vain. Silicate brick for furnaces is absolutely unsuitable, and fireclay masonry in outdoor ovens should be avoided: due to the high moisture absorption of fireclay bricks, it is subject to frost in the open air in winter.

Note: why would the authors of some publications and rewriters crazy stealing material from them take that the stove can be made up of gas blocks, it is unlikely that the Almighty knows. This is foamed cement mortar. Under the influence of high temperatures, the cement gradually but rather quickly loses its water of crystallization and disintegrates into dust.

Masonry mortar and masonry

The usual clay oven solution for outdoor stoves is unsuitable: it will become sour during downtime during the spring and autumn bad weather. Stoves with an unstressed thermal regime (coarse, 2-burner with a smoke chamber) can be laid on a building cement-sand mortar from M250 (Portland cement from M500: sand 1: 3 - 1: 3.5); in extreme cases, they will not be completely shifted for long. Sometimes outdoor stoves in weekend cottages are laid on the same mortar with reinforcement of joints 6-7 mm thick with a steel mesh 3 mm thick. However, with more or less regular use, a stove folded in this way lasts no more than 5-7 years.

To put together a truly durable outdoor stove, you will have to buy a dry stove mortar for laying outdoor stoves and close it according to the instructions. In general, this is a clay-cement-sand mortar, but the quality of the clay for it must be checked in the laboratory, and the dry mixture must be prepared on production equipment. If you don’t mind taking a chance by folding a rough or slab first, a trail is being prepared for laying outdoor stoves at home. way:

1. White or gray greasy clay is closed with a large amount of water and left to “sour” for three days;
2. The first two days, the clay solution is periodically stirred, the third day is allowed to settle;
3. The suspension is drained, and the clay sediment is pressed through a sieve with a mesh of 1.5 mm and dried in the shade;
4. Dry clay is crushed to a fraction no larger than 1.5 mm and Portland cement grade M400 or higher is added in an amount of 10-15% of the volume of clay;
5. They make a “sausage” test for the fat content of the clay-cement mixture, as in the preparation of oven masonry furnace mortar with your own hands;
6. Mountain sand fraction 0.5-1.5 mm is added to the dry mixture to the desired fat content. Ravine and rounded quartz river sand are not suitable. Only now the mixture is ready to work.

It is necessary to prepare a masonry mortar for a furnace, from a purchased or home-made mixture, in small portions in order to work out in 2-3 hours, because. clay-cement-sand mortar and in a bucket dries and exfoliates. It is better for beginners to make a bucket of mortar at a time, it will be enough for 100-120 bricks. The solution on the brick is best applied with the palm of a layer of approx. 3 mm. The squeezed out excess is immediately removed with a finger, and the seams are cut on the outside with a wooden stick to a depth of 4-5 mm under moisture insulation, see below.

Note: the thickness of the seam between fireclay and red oven bricks is 6 mm, because the modules of their coefficients of thermal expansion (TEC) are different.

Seam protection

Neither facing with tiles, stone or face bricks, nor plastering with moisture-resistant plaster will completely protect the masonry joints of an outdoor stove from soaking. A radical way to protect external joints from moisture has appeared only in our time: grouting joints with glue for porcelain tiles. The seams are rubbed after the masonry has completely dried (20 days at 15 degrees and 7 at 25). For the drying period, a temporary canopy is arranged above the oven to avoid uneven heating by direct sunlight.

As for the internal seams, to protect them, all openings / holes in the structure of the furnace during the winter downtime are plugged with bags stuffed with dry grass, rags, etc. So the temperature inside will be at least a degree, but higher than the outside, which will prevent condensation. In the spring, before the first start after winter, the stove is quietly heated for an hour or two with paper, shavings, dry grass, until the smoke from the chimney brightens or becomes almost transparent. Now the furnace can be started at full speed.

Mortgages and accessories

Metal embedded parts can only be walled up in kiln brick masonry; there should not be mortgages in fireclay. The thickness of the mortar layer between the metal and the oven brick is also 3 mm, so the seam with the mortgage will be 6 mm thick + the thickness of the embedded part. Because seams thicker than 13 mm are unacceptable, the maximum thickness of mortgages in the furnace is 5 mm, and the minimum, according to general building codes, is 4 mm. Wire inserts can be 3 mm thick.

Deformation gaps between brickwork and fittings (doors, dampers, latches, gates) are needed with a width of 6-12 mm. Most often, gaps are made by 10 mm. Deformation gaps are filled with fluffy asbestos; as a rule, for this purpose, the fitting element is wrapped around the contour with an asbestos cord before installation. Put the piece of fittings in place as soon as the masonry reaches the level of its bottom; pushing the part into the finished opening is unacceptable! Next, the laying is carried out, circling the fittings until it closes at the top of it.

In the manuals for the construction of furnaces, they write that it is necessary to fasten the fittings in the structure of the furnace only with wire, because. cast iron is not boiled or is cooked very poorly. This is true, therefore, eyelets and / or grooves for 3-4 mm wire are provided in the cast-iron fittings. Installation of cast-iron elements of furnace fittings is done in the next. order:

1. As soon as the masonry is brought to the bottom of the part, the grooves for the wire whiskers are selected in the bricks by the grinder. The groove width is 6 mm. Laying the mustache in the masonry - from 1.5 bricks, better - 2.5-3.5 bricks. The ends of the wire must not fall on the vertical seams of the masonry!
2. A wire is threaded into the lower eyes of the asbestos-wrapped fittings, the part is put in place and the laying continues;
3. In the last row of masonry that overlaps the part, grooves are selected for the upper mustache of the wire, as in paragraph 1;
4. Insert the wire into the upper eyelets of the part;
5. Spread the overlapping row and lay the masonry further.

At the same time, in outdoor stoves that are heated irregularly and not intensively, fittings made of ordinary structural steel, incl. homemade. This saves a lot of money, because. cast iron fittings road. It is quite legitimate to fix steel furnace fittings by welding to mortgages from a steel strip or corner.

Chimney

The chimney of an outdoor stove can be either ordinary (from 4 m) or reduced to 0.6-1 m in height. A reliable chimney of an outdoor stove with a top outlet must be built at the same time as the structure of the stove, because. it is almost impossible to fix a separate solid pipe so that it does not loosen the chimney cutting in the furnace in the wind. It is easier to attach a separate chimney to a stove with a side outlet: the outlet of the stove is connected with chimney horizontal link - upland - from a flexible metal corrugation. This solution also has the advantage that acidic condensate from the chimney will never enter the furnace: it will settle in the chimney sump, from where it can be easily drained through a hatch, faucet or drain hole, usually closed with a screw.

Finally: as you can see, the most difficult task when building an outdoor stove is to protect it from atmospheric precipitation during operation. The best way to solve it, which also allows in many cases to do without the foundation of the stove and makes it possible to use it in any weather, is to build the stove in the gazebo, on the veranda or under a canopy.