Dormer window on the roof: types of structures, device rules, installation steps. Dormer windows on the roof - purpose, types of structures How to properly assemble a dormer dormer window

A dormer window is a frame with glass that is built into the plane of the roof.

It can have a wide variety of shapes and designs, thanks to which the look of the whole house becomes original and unique and the building acquires its own style.

What are dormer windows?

Types of dormer windows are determined by the shape of the roof above the window and design features: with a flat roof;

quadrangular single slope;

With a hip roof

· triangular;

quadrangular with a gable roof;

Panoramic with a trapezoid roof;

attic;

round or semi-circular;

full glass and many other options.

Dormer windows on the roof serve to ventilate the room in which no one lives, so that all wooden structures do not rot.

They are used as a door to the roof for repairs and maintenance, as well as an emergency exit in case of fire and other incidents. There are 4 main types of dormers:
In a gable wall. The location of this design is the top of the end wall between the slopes. As a rule, this area has a triangular shape. Such a dormer window is quite easy to mount, since no additional structures are required for it.
Dormer. This design is located above the roof slope and protrudes above it. The design of such an element is not simple, so the calculations will have to work hard. The most important thing is to strengthen the supporting structure of the roof and waterproof the window well. Dormer, in turn, has many modifications: gable, single-slope, arched, triangular, built-in, panoramic.

Antidormer. It is the antipode of a dormer, that is, it is arranged in the very slope of the roof and does not protrude beyond it. This type of dormer is not very common, although it is easier to construct and less expensive. But at the same time, the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe attic space is reduced.

Tilt window. Another name is a roof window, which is in line with the roof. These are the most modern designs, a huge variety of forms of which are represented by metal-plastic products. They do not add special beauty to the roof, but they do an excellent job with their functions: they let in a stream of light, do not require the installation of additional load-bearing elements and perfectly protect against moisture and water.

Helpful Hints

If you like a structure similar to the roof, the drawing should be ready at the stage of developing the roof frame. In the process of sketching and designing, everything needs to be well thought out, including the types of windows, as well as their number and location.

Many years of experience have shown that it is not worthwhile to place dormer window structures near the fronts, at a small distance from the ridge and near the cornices. The step between the windows should be such that it is easy to lay the roofing material. If the distance is small, snow will accumulate in the gaps, and preventive inspections of the roof will be difficult. Therefore, the minimum step between windows is 80 cm.

The lower edge of the window opening should be at a height of about 90 cm from the level of the attic floor. The owners are free to choose the height, it depends on the height of the ceiling of the attic itself.

Video instructions for installing a dormer window with your own hands:

Window installation

The installation of dormer windows on the roof begins immediately after the installation of a common truss system for the entire roof. Everything must be foreseen in advance.

The frame for the dormer window is made of beams, but sometimes the side walls are laid out with bricks. In this case, the side walls should rest on the floor beams and be located at right angles to the outer wall. If the window opening is too wide, you need to compensate for the load. To do this, use reinforced rafter legs (2-3 pieces together), framing the window opening.

Experts do not recommend cutting jumpers into rafters, this weakens the entire structure. The best option for fixing all elements is metal fasteners. Increased attention should be paid to the installation of the waterproofing layer. The window structure itself is insulated with the same material as the entire roof.

The frame for the window itself is another miniature roof, so you need to be very careful when calculating. Answering the question of how to make a frame for a dormer window, we give the sequence of work below:
Protect the openings with rafter legs prepared in size from durable wooden beams that can withstand the load of the entire frame.
Lay the cross beams, while the lowest element should be at the level of the wall of the house, and the top one - at your own discretion, depending on the height of the window.
Place the uprights on the lower horizontal beam, which is at the level of the outer wall, and tie them together with the upper cross beam.

Fasten the frame to the top beam using the longitudinal bars.
Check the position of the frame both vertically and horizontally.
Lay the ridge beam and rafter legs of the miniature window roof. It is better to make a template and cut out these elements on it.
Sheathe the walls on both sides with a durable moisture-resistant material.

The coating on the roof of the window and on the roof of the building itself are mounted at the same time, so that the roof is solid, durable and of high quality. When installing dormer windows, you need to be very careful so that the intended decoration of the roof and the house does not turn into its defect.

If you have a living space in the attic, then the design of the dormer window is used for lighting.

True, experts say that such openings let much less sun into the house than attic ones, since the side walls prevent light from entering inside.

They can be installed on the roof of almost any design - single-pitched, gable, four-pitched, broken, multi-gable.

There are a wide variety of options for combining the roof of the house with the view of the opening, and it can be placed both on the roof itself and on the pediment.

If you have chosen a flat roof option for your home, then it should be borne in mind that such a device must be equipped with additional gutters for drainage.

Therefore, the roof must be made at a slope of approximately 5 to 15º.

The quadrangular variant with a gable and shed roof is similar in design to a flat roof window, but the slope angle of the slopes should be from 15 º.

Triangular options are often found on the roof of private houses and summer cottages. Instead of side walls, it has slopes.

So you can mount it with fewer joints, but much less light will enter the room.

The round shape looks very interesting. It makes the appearance of the house very unusual.

The most interesting option, both in terms of functionality and appearance, is a dormer window in the form of a skylight.

It makes the house visually lighter and more airy, and it lets a lot of sun into the rooms.

The roof window is also attached between the rafters. Use them on slopes 15 - 20º. This is a barrier to water flow, so the device of this option is very complex.

Making this product with your own hands is almost impossible, so it is best to order ready-made wooden or plastic windows from specialists.

Finished products from manufacturers have a special salary, which, when opened, protects the room from water ingress.

Dormer window design

Before creating a drawing of your future dormer window, you should familiarize yourself with the requirements of SNiP, since the implementation of building codes for the installation of a dormer or roof window with your own hands is necessary.

By adhering to these requirements, you will receive a reliable and durable product, with powerful performance parameters.

· Installation is possible only if the roof has an inclination angle of 35º;

Superstructures must be placed at a clearly defined distance from the outer walls;

The sashes must be at least 0.6 by 0.8 m, that is, the size of the opening must be at least 1.2 by 0.8 m;

· If you want to make an opening with a hip roof, then it will not continue the wall of the house.

As for materials, copper, metal sheets, tiles are used for sheathing. Some options may have their own roof, ledges, gutters.

If a very large opening is made in the roof, then it can serve as a balcony.

Based on the parameters of your home, it also depends on what types of dormer windows you can make.

skylight frame

When you have determined the dimensions of your opening, you should develop drawings of the future product. It should not only fulfill its functions, but also decorate the facade of the house.

Experts say that the total width of the auditory openings should be more than half the width of the attic.

After you have drawn up a drawing, you can start the device of the product with your own hands. Production must begin when the roof support system of the entire structure is installed.

The roof of the opening has its own load-bearing structures and crate, if it is gable, then it has its own hobby. The design of the auditory opening is similar to the design of the roof of the house, only miniature.

First, the pediments are made on the roof of the house, then the ridge beam and rafters are attached. Holes are made in the right places.

They are protected by very strong rafters, as they will bear the entire load. You can use double and even triple rafters.

After that, beams are attached across the rafters. The lower beam will be placed at the level of the outer wall of the building. And the top - as provided by the size of the future window.

Next, racks are placed on the underlying beam, which are connected from above with a bar. A further device involves linking the structure to the upper beam using beams. In recent years, the use of skylights has become more and more widespread. In addition, occupying the same roof area, they give more light, thanks to the slope, in addition, they are much easier to arrange.

Yet the dilemma often arises: what to choose? If the house was built a long time ago and it is necessary to adhere to some architectural framework, then in this case, most likely, a dormer window will do. If the house was built relatively recently and you just decided to make a residential attic of your house, then an attic may also be suitable.

First, let's look at the auditory variety. For its device, special niches are needed, which the roof must have. The frame of the truss and side walls requires a large number of connections to the main roof, it is quite difficult to make it “by eye”. Therefore, you need a drawing created by a good specialist. The pediment and side walls are sheathed with construction plywood and sheathed with facade material. Roofing materials are laid on the roof at the same level as the main roof. The junction of the dormer window to the roof is waterproofed and insulated.

The roof window is fixed between two rafters. Mansards serve as a barrier to water flows, therefore such a structure is usually equipped mainly on roofs with a slope of 15-20 degrees. Modern roof windows are quite complex structures that have good protection against leaks and cold. It will be very difficult to make it on your own, so that it turns out to be of high quality and reliable. Therefore, you will make your life easier by simply buying it from a reliable manufacturer. Fastening to the roof is carried out using a base plate. To drain water, the frame has a special salary, represented by a metal frame, which is located around the perimeter. In order to open it, the design has friction hinges, which are located just above the center of the window. They open the window frame so that all the water that enters it flows onto the roof and does not get inside.

MAKE A WINDOW IN THE READY ROOF

In private homes, there is often a need for a window opening in the roof. Completely redoing the roof is a rather long and expensive task, therefore it is possible to construct an auditory opening using several techniques.
Determine where the window will be

Window parameters should occupy no more than 10% of the area of ​​​​the space below them. Large windows on the roof provoke a large loss of heat. In addition, their glasses are not strong enough and not as resistant to external influences as it is necessary. The best option is to position the window clearly in the center between the two roof beams.

Installing the window frame

Cut the desired opening for the window opening in the slate and begin assembling the window frame. It is installed on the supporting roof rafters using a special wooden frame 40x50 mm. It is better to fasten it to the rafters using stainless material. The frame is mounted with wood screws with tight fixation to the rafters. You can also mount a frame dormer window that will be parallel to the roof of the house, but such complex structures are best left to professionals.

Sealing and finishing the window opening

Sealants that are suitable for this:

Vapor-proof sealed self-expanding tape;

acrylic;

bituminous;

silicone.

Self-expanding tape, laid in a layer around the perimeter, works best. From above, the gap can be sealed with acrylic material. Such actions are best done in warm and dry weather. If you decide to build a dormer window with your own hands, then let's talk about this in a little more detail.

VARIETY OF DORM WINDOWS

A flat roof dormer is usually mounted with gutters, so the roof should have a slope of 5 to 15 degrees. The quadrangular design with a single or gable roof is similar to a flat roof window, but it must have a slightly larger slope of the slopes, at least 15 degrees.

A triangular dormer window is most often found on the roofs of country houses and cottages. This design does not have side walls, their place is occupied by roof slopes. This leads to a reduction in the amount of waterproofing work, but at the same time reduces the illumination of the attic if the front part of such a window is not directed to the facade of the house. Recently, an interesting solution has appeared in the form of a round shape. In the people, such designs are called "frog mouth" or "bat".

The most functional is a window in the form of a skylight. Visually, this is a lightweight construction that does not weigh down the roof, and it illuminates the attic perfectly. Specialists usually adhere to the following figures when drawing up drawings, determining the number and size of dormer windows: the total width must not exceed half the width of the attic, the lower edges of the dormer windows should be at a height of 0.9 m from the floor; the higher the location of the dormer window, the better the lighting occurs.

frame

The frame of the dormer window is mounted at the time when the roof truss system is being installed. If the roof is gable, the frame has its own crate and its own rafters. Basically it is a separate mini-roof. When a rafter system is being erected, in those places where dormer windows are planned, it is necessary to provide openings that enclose the rafter legs with increased strength, because they will have to take on the mass of the dormer window structure.

Then, transverse beams are laid on the rafter legs: the upper one - according to the size of the window, and the lower one - at the level of the outer wall of the house. Vertical racks are installed on the lower beam, which are connected by a transverse bar along the top. We get a frame, which we fasten with longitudinal bars to the upper beam, which was laid on reinforced rafters. So we get the frame, but so far without the truss system of the window itself. The rafter system in the attic is made following the image of the main roof structure.
triangular window frame

When installing jumper beams, it is undesirable to cut into the rafter legs of the main roof structure in order to prevent a weakening of the bearing capacity. Fastening of all frame elements is carried out using metal fasteners. After checking the frame horizontally and vertically, you can install a ridge beam and small rafters of the dormer roof. The rafters are cut according to the template - this simplifies the work quite well. The side walls are sheathed with moisture resistant material. The roof of the window is mounted simultaneously with the execution of the roofing material on the main roof.

Properly waterproof the joints of the dormer window and the main roof so that there is no leakage.

So the rafters can lose their bearing capacity. All elements must be fastened to metal fasteners.

The rafters can be cut out in a pattern, which will greatly simplify the opening device.

The walls are sheathed with materials that are resistant to moisture, and the roof is made along with the installation of the roof of the whole house.

Particular attention should be paid to isolating the joints from moisture in order to prevent leaks.

Membranes, silicone sealants, clamping strips are used as insulating materials.

If you want to make a do-it-yourself skylight, then such a device is installed directly in the roof.

Their advantage is that they let more sunlight into the rooms, and installation is much faster.

How to make such a window in the finished roof?

Often, homeowners need to install a dormer window already in the finished roof.

Redoing it completely is not a cheap task, as a result of which many are interested in how to make such a window on their own. The manufacture of such an option is not at all difficult.

It is better to place the dormer window in the center between the supporting beams. So the window will be stronger and more stable.

An opening is cut in the roofing material. After installing the frame on the supporting rafters.

Fasten it with self-tapping screws, fixing it very tightly.

The window opening should be carefully sealed with bituminous, silicone or acrylic sealant or vapor barrier tape.

The expanded clay concrete surface is pre-cleaned, the masonry seams are processed, then it is primed. Next, the surfaces are reinforced with a mesh. The prepared solution is applied and, after drying, rubbed until ready for decoration.

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Wall surface preparation

Before plastering, dirt, dust, oil and grease stains present on the wall blocks are removed. The solution that protrudes above the surface of the masonry is knocked off.

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Seam processing

Cracks and seams are sealed with sand-cement mortar. When they are narrow and deep, they are flared to allow the material to penetrate. All recesses are aligned with the plane of the wall in order to provide the plaster with a more uniform shrinkage. The surface must be dry before the next operation.

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Primer

Before using the gypsum composition, expanded clay concrete blocks are treated with agents that improve mutual adhesion. Liquid quartz primers, polymer dispersions, as well as "concrete contact" type compositions intended for expanded clay blocks can be used. However, you can use ready-made plaster mixes that already contain additives for this purpose. Then the blocks do not need pre-priming.

Before using a cement-sand mortar to equalize the suction properties, masonry sections are treated with a solution of cement in water. It is also allowed to simply wet the expanded clay blocks with water when applying the plaster layer. Properly prepared masonry will evenly absorb water from the plaster solution, which will keep it even.

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Plaster mesh installation

The use of sand-cement mortar (up to 10 mm thick) does not imply mandatory reinforcement. However, when the plaster layer is thicker than 1.5 cm, it is better to stuff a flat galvanized mesh. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping screws, which are installed in dowels in holes made in the masonry after 20 - 30 cm.

The mesh is pressed with thin washers under the heads of the screws. A relatively thin layer of plaster coating makes it possible to use fiberglass mesh (density 200 g/m2, cell 10x10 or 5x5 mm). It is advisable to put it before plastering with gypsum mortar.

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Solution preparation

Preparation of plaster

The ready-to-use solution should have the consistency of liquid mashed potatoes. Plasticizers will facilitate its application. Also, especially in gypsum plaster, components should be added that increase adhesion to the base. should provide the masonry with moisture resistance, have high strength, attach well to the base, dampen minor shrinkage changes in geometry and frost resistance.

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Application

Before starting, vertical beacons are attached to the solution and leveled with a step convenient for using the two-meter rule. For the first layer, the mixture is thrown onto the masonry with a trowel and smoothed out with a rule that moves along the lighthouses slightly to the right - to the left and from bottom to top. After 6 - 7 hours, the beacons are removed from the wall, and the 2nd finishing thin layer is applied, eliminating all remaining irregularities.

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Drying

The solutions dry quickly enough, as they dry outward. The plaster forms a smooth, even surface, from under which the relief of the claydite-concrete base blocks does not show through.

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Finishing

As it sets, the finish layer is rubbed with a grater. Complete drying of the cement-sand coating gives rise to finishing: priming with painting, decorative puttying, priming under wallpaper, tiles, porcelain stoneware, etc. Gypsum plaster creates a surface almost ready for decorative finishing (wallpaper, painting). The outer surfaces of the building, covered with plaster, should immediately be covered with facade paint, which will protect them from moisture.

The procedure for work with insulation

In order to insulate expanded clay concrete walls on your own, you should strictly adhere to the technology of work. The process consists of several stages: surface preparation, preparation of the mortar, application of the adhesive composition on the boards, installation of insulation, creation of a vapor barrier layer, reinforcement, and cladding.

Materials and tools

For work you will need:

• insulation;
• fiberglass facade mesh;
• primer;
• adhesive composition for insulation;
• putty;
• drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
• containers for the preparation of glue and putty;
• cuvette and brush for applying a primer;
• construction level;
• spatulas - narrow, wide, serrated;
• dowels are umbrella-shaped;
• construction knife;
• mounting foam;
• roulette;
• vapor barrier material (membrane);
• construction tape.

Depending on which cladding method is chosen, other materials will also be needed: brick, siding or facade plaster.

Training

The surface is cleaned of debris, dust, dirt. Apply a layer of primer, wait until it dries, proceed to the application of plaster. The wall is primed again to ensure high-quality adhesion of the insulation to the surface.

The next stage in the process of insulating walls from expanded clay blocks is the preparation of a solution

Today, a large number of adhesive compositions are produced, and when choosing, you should pay attention that it is suitable for the selected insulation. The solution is prepared, focusing on the instructions on the package.

Application of the composition and installation of plates

The adhesive must be applied using a notched trowel, distributing a thin layer over the entire surface of the wall. There should be no empty lots. After that, the composition is applied to the plate itself - around the perimeter and in the center.

Installation starts from the bottom of the wall, go sequentially around the perimeter of the building. With this method, all the plates in the first row will have time to firmly fix, and the load from those installed above will not move them. The evenness of the position of each plate is checked using the building level. The second and subsequent rows are performed with a shift of half the length of the plate. To do this, cut the slab in half using a construction knife.

If in some places the sheets do not fit tightly to each other, the space is filled with mounting foam.

Additional fixing and installation of vapor barrier

After the adhesive solution has hardened (about a day later), the insulation is additionally fixed to the expanded clay concrete with dowels. They are driven in along the perimeter of the plates and in the center.

When using mineral or basalt wool, a vapor barrier layer is required to protect the material from getting wet. For this purpose, special membrane films are used, which also protect from the wind. The film is fixed by placing the strips vertically. In this case, each next strip should overlap the previous one by at least 10 cm. The joints are glued with construction tape.

Reinforcement

Proceed to the installation of reinforcing mesh. It is attached vertically. Using a tape measure, measure the height of the wall, cut off a piece of mesh of the desired length. Apply plaster to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe insulation, press the mesh into it. This must be done quickly before the plaster has hardened. In order to level the surface of the plaster at the same time as pressing the mesh, it is recommended to use a facade spatula for work.

Finishing

Cladding after the insulation of expanded clay walls can be done using brickwork, siding installation or using plaster.

The wall is plastered after the composition layer on which the reinforcing mesh is fixed has completely dried out. After that, the surface is primed again, they wait until the wall dries, then they start applying the starting and finishing compositions. The final stage is painting the facade.

The second option is to install siding. In this case, the reinforcing mesh is not required, the cladding is installed directly on the slabs. Since the "wet" method does not require the installation of battens, the installation of siding will require the installation of anchors to which the slats will be attached.

Why is brick cladding less popular than the "wet" method? She needs to create a foundation and waterproof it. This entails additional financial and time costs.

It is necessary to insulate the walls of a building built of expanded clay concrete blocks - this not only reduces heat loss, but also lengthens the life of the house. The cost of the materials that will be required is affordable, and the work itself is quite possible to carry out on its own.

The technology of applying plaster of claydite-concrete walls

It is not difficult to do the plastering of walls from expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands, it is important to properly prepare the surface and follow the instructions. . Prepare the base - thoroughly clean the surface of dust and dirt, remove debris, remove oil stains, if any

It is necessary to check the interblock seams and knock down the protruding solution;
Inspect the surface for cracks, seal all found cracks, chips, holes and seams between the blocks with cement mortar. Leave the surface until the solution is completely dry.
Priming - the choice and method of priming depends on the type of plaster. For cement-sand mortar, priming is not a mandatory step. You can do with plain water, which is applied to the blocks immediately before the plaster. When using gypsum plaster, it is required to prime the surface with concrete contact or quartz primer. For acrylic and silicate plasters, special solutions are also used.

• Prepare the base - thoroughly clean the surface of dust and dirt, remove debris, remove oil stains, if any. It is necessary to check the interblock seams and knock down the protruding solution;
• Inspect the surface for cracks, seal all found cracks, chips, holes and seams between the blocks with cement mortar. Leave the surface until the solution is completely dry.
• Priming - the choice and method of priming depends on the type of plaster. For cement-sand mortar, priming is not a mandatory step. You can do with plain water, which is applied to the blocks immediately before the plaster. When using gypsum plaster, it is required to prime the surface with concrete contact or quartz primer. For acrylic and silicate plasters, special solutions are also used.

• Surface reinforcement - reinforcement is required if the plaster layer exceeds 1.5 centimeters. Experts suggest using a reinforcing mesh or fiberglass mesh, the structure is attached to self-tapping screws.
• Application of the solution - the prepared solution is applied in two layers. Before starting work, it is necessary to fix vertical beacons, by which you can navigate in the future. The first layer of plaster is thrown onto the surface with a trowel and carefully leveled by the rule along the lighthouses. The resulting surface is left for 6 hours until completely dry, then all beacons are removed and a finishing layer is applied.

With a layer thickness of up to 15 mm, reinforcement is not required.

Plaster is an important stage in construction, it prolongs the life of the structure, protects the walls from moisture and temperature extremes.

Construction from expanded clay concrete blocks. plaster finish inside and out

The production of expanded clay concrete blocks is very simple and cheap. The production of the block does not require special and expensive equipment. Expanded clay concrete can be easily produced under conditions. This property should reduce the price of such a block, but, as is usually the case in our consumer society, it is not the end consumer (you and I) who benefits from the reduction, and even receives from this not quite the benefits as it might seem. The main beneficiary is the seller, but that, as they say, is a completely different story.

Using heavier (dense) blocks, it is quite possible to build high-rise buildings.

When building a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, it is not necessary to arrange a vapor barrier, because the vapor permeability of expanded clay concrete is quite high. It is quite comparable with the vapor permeability of a brick. A little less.

When using expanded clay concrete blocks in private construction, it is possible, and even necessary, to use lighter blocks. The thermal conductivity of such blocks is already comparable to wood, and the strength allows the construction of a two or even three-story house with a ceiling of reinforced concrete hollow slabs. Thus, expanded clay concrete will allow the total weight of the house to be less and at the same time save on the complexity of the foundation and insulation.

In a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, ordinary dowels with no less ordinary screws are easily held. In this way, expanded clay concrete blocks compare favorably with foam-aerated concrete, in which neither dowels nor screws are held, and it is necessary to use fasteners specially designed for these materials.

In our country, there are quite a few regions where there is an abundance of minerals such as limestone and clay. Obviously, in such regions there are and successfully operate the production of cement, expanded clay and expanded clay concrete. Before buying expanded clay concrete on the market, you can look around and suddenly find out that there is a plant in the immediate vicinity of your construction site where you can buy the same building material much cheaper and without intermediary markups. Proavda, this situation is becoming less and less possible due to the development of our economy, in which the end consumer is in the most disadvantageous position. But I digress again.

Difficulties/Dangers/Disadvantages

As I often say, it seems to have become one of my favorite sayings, any good idea can be driven to the point of absurdity by ugly execution. So it is with blocks. Non-compliance with technology, the use of high-quality raw materials, of course, to reduce the cost of products, the suppression of characteristics, all this creates difficulties for private developers.

When buying blocks, carefully look at how long their dimensions are. Check the block in your hand to determine, at least approximately, whether you are being cheated with density. For example, a block of 20x20x40 cm is 16,000 cubic centimeters. There are a million cubic centimeters in one cubic meter. We divide a million by 16 thousand and get 62 and a half blocks in one cubic meter. Unexpected result, right? If a cubic meter of blocks weighs 500 kilograms, then one block will weigh only 8 kilograms. It's pretty small. If the blocks are hollow, then they will weigh even less. The calculation in this case is very complicated due to the difficulties in calculating the volume of one block.

A house made of expanded clay concrete blocks will turn out to be lighter than a brick house, but not light enough to build it on a lightweight foundation. The foundation, however, as always, requires calculation.

When laying a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, cold bridges are almost certainly formed. It is good to make thin walls with external thermal insulation from such blocks.

It is better not to leave the laying of expanded clay concrete blocks unfinished for more than a couple of years. This can adversely affect the durability of the building.

A wall made of expanded clay concrete block is less breathable than a brick wall. However, given the fact that there is also an interior decoration of our walls, this issue is not so important.

When insulating a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, I, as always, recommend doing it on the outside of the building and using mineral wool slabs of medium and low density. To calculate the thickness of the insulation, you can use the thermal conductivity calculator and an example of its use.

Personally, I like such a building material as expanded clay concrete blocks. I have used it in my practice. I like its strength and lightness at the same time. True, I took the blocks at a large plant and chose the parties. It seems to me that this wall material is better than brick in terms of price-quality ratio.

Thank you for your attention!

Dmitry Belkin

The technology of applying the plaster composition on expanded clay concrete blocks

Plastering can be done by hand, or using special plastering machines. If you have enough experience and knowledge, you can do the work yourself. If there is no certainty that everything will turn out qualitatively, then it is better to use the help of professional plasterers.

Wall plastering

Wall surface preparation

Before you start plastering the walls, you need to clean the surface from the influx of masonry mortar, dirt, grease and oil stains.

Products are characterized by a low coefficient of water absorption, that is, they practically do not absorb water from the solution. Therefore, preliminary priming of the surface of the blocks is not required.

Before applying cement-sand plaster, you can treat the blocks with a solution of cement with water, or simply wet them. Before starting work with other types of plaster, pre-treatment of the surface of the blocks with a special composition that improves the adhesion of materials is required.

Preparing the wall surface for plaster

• Due to the even surface of expanded clay blocks, the required thickness of the plaster layer is relatively small - from 1 cm to 1.5 cm. Under such conditions, the use of a reinforcing mesh is not required.
• In the case of further wall decoration with tiles or stone, it is possible to further strengthen the plaster layer with such a grid.
• However, in the presence of masonry defects and the need to apply a thicker layer of mortar, the use of masonry mesh is mandatory. For these purposes, a galvanized mesh or glass mesh is used. It is attached to the surface of the blocks with self-tapping screws.

Reinforcing mesh installation

The final stage of preparation is the installation of beacons with a step corresponding to the length of the rule, and setting them according to the level. The video in this article will tell you more about this.

Plaster preparation and application

Cement-sand mortar is easy to prepare yourself. But an easier option is to buy a ready-made dry mix. As a rule, on the package there is an instruction for its use.

The plaster mixture must be diluted with water and mixed thoroughly. Its consistency should be thick enough not to run down the surface.

With the manual method of plastering, the solution is applied to the surface of the blocks with a trowel, and leveled by the rule, taking into account the location of the beacons. Plaster on blocks of expanded clay concrete is made in two layers.

Alignment on beacons of gypsum plaster

Six hours after applying the first layer, it must be carefully rubbed.

Then the final layer of plaster is applied. To prevent cracking of the plastered surface, it must be covered with a film. The solution will dry gradually and evenly.

Mechanized block plastering

In the production of finishing works in large volumes, it is more expedient to use a mechanized method of applying plaster.

It has a number of undeniable advantages over manual plastering:

• Mixing the solution is much faster and better.
• Uniform application of plaster on the surface of a block structure.
• The quality of adhesion of the solution to the blocks is more durable, due to its supply under pressure.
• Significant savings in building materials, reduced labor costs.

When using plastering machines, it is necessary to select special dry mixes for machine plastering.

The use of a special plastering machine

Wall plastering will not only create additional protection for the wall structure, but also give the whole house an attractive aesthetic appearance.

Plastered facade of a country house

Plastering the interior walls of the premises, makes it possible to further decorate the interior with any materials.

Combination of wall painting with wallpapering

Properly selected plaster mixture, as well as professionally executed wall plaster, will significantly extend the life of the building.

Beautiful, reliable, durable - claydite-concrete walls can simply be plastered!

A wide choice of modern plaster materials makes it possible to comprehensively protect the house, creating its unique appearance both outside and inside.

What materials to use

It is possible to carry out wall insulation from expanded clay concrete blocks using various materials:

1. Mineral and basalt wool. This is one of the most popular heaters. Its advantages: incombustibility, low thermal conductivity, environmental safety and affordable price. The disadvantage of mineral wool is that it needs additional waterproofing, since it easily absorbs moisture and can become unusable over time. Produced in the form of plates and rolls. The higher the density of the material, the higher the cost.
2. Styrofoam. With the help of this light, inexpensive and easy-to-use insulation, you can carry out work quickly enough, and do it yourself. The disadvantages of such a solution include the instability of the material to the action of moisture and pests, fire hazard. Produced in the form of plates.
3. Glass wool. Withstands temperature extremes, does not dampen and is cheaper than mineral wool. However, when working with the material, safety precautions should be strictly observed - the smallest glass wool fibers can damage the respiratory tract and skin.
4. Penoplex. It has characteristics similar to polystyrene, but it is more expensive and practically does not let air through. Resistant to rodents, high humidity. It is produced in the form of plates with locks, due to which the installation process of the insulation is as simple as possible.

Advice! Answering the question of how to insulate the expanded clay block from the outside, experienced builders recommend mineral or basalt wool.

The nuances of the work

There are 3 ways of external insulation of expanded clay concrete walls:

1. Ventilated façade. When choosing this method, first a frame is created, inside which insulation boards are laid. It is important to consider that the crate is attached to the wall, creating an additional load on it, so this method is not recommended.
2. Laying insulation between the block and facing bricks. This method is considered the most reliable and durable, but the cost of such a solution is high, and therefore not available to everyone.
3. "Wet" method. The budgetary method of external insulation, used most often. It consists in the fact that the insulation is fixed to the wall using a special solution, after which it is covered with a vapor barrier material, on top of which plaster is applied. The advantages of this option: the absence of a serious load on the wall, the ability to paint the facade of the building in any color, the low cost of materials and work, the protection of expanded clay concrete from the influence of external factors (precipitation, temperature changes, winds).

Important! Before insulating expanded clay concrete blocks from the outside, they need to be plastered. This increases the wall's ability to retain heat.

Plastering of expanded clay blocks

Choosing a mixture for plastering the facade of a building in our time is not difficult. The compositions adapted to modern conditions have a very strong base. They do not crack, do not crumble for the next season. As soon as the plaster is applied to the wall, it should be covered with any facade paint. Such enamel will protect the walls from unnecessary dampness and prevent vapor permeability.

On these types of blocks, plaster based on cement and sand is applied. It is combined with masonry. For better performance of work, you can use a special grid, but this is not a prerequisite. A galvanized mesh of a flat sample is placed on the cement base. It is attached with screws. The washers will be a suspension made of zinc with perforations, divided into plates. Washers of such a plan have a minimum thickness, respectively, will not increase the plaster layer. Such indicators are very important for some surfaces.

To make your work as easy as possible, plasticizers should be added to the solution.

Plaster from a mixture of gypsum is warmer and more airy. It has a lower density. To improve adhesion to the wall, it is treated with a composition intended for this. There are ready-made gypsum plasters, consisting of concrete-contact ingredients. Preliminary action with such grounds is not required. Reinforcement is carried out by attracting a polymer mesh.

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Ventilated facade on KBB walls

If you have chosen a ventilated facade and insulated your house with basalt wool, you can mount it in a wooden crate or in the space between steel hangers. I do not recommend you to insulate a house from KBB with polystyrene foam under the ventilation facade.

Why? Because there are several reasons why foam plastic as a heater for a ventilation facade is completely unsuitable:

1. Styrofoam is a combustible material, it cannot be used in systems with a ventilated facade. Rodents feel great in such a pie if you nevertheless make foam plastic in a ventilated facade. Your insulation will fall down the ventilation gap.

Basalt wool, which you can use, is deprived of these shortcomings in the ventilation facade. You can also use polyurethane foam, resole foam or ecowool.

After installing the battens or hangers and subsequent insulation, you can mount the outer decorative layer on the ventilated facade.

What is suitable in this case for a KBB house:

• Porcelain tilesClinker panelsVinyl sidingMetal sidingFiber cement panelsPlankenBlock house

With these materials, you can form a decorative layer in the ventilated facade for your home. How to mount them - look at this site, everything is described in detail.

Requirements for materials for block plastering

When finishing cellular concrete with your own hands, the right choice of materials is of great importance. The solution must meet a number of requirements.

• High strength. Cellular blocks are not durable, which requires their protection from wear, abrasion, mechanical shock, scratches and other damage.
• Good moisture resistance. The pores on the surface actively absorb moisture, due to which the wall gets wet, this requires the exterior finish to be made with a waterproof layer.
• Sufficient adhesion. Otherwise, the composition will simply fall off. It is better to use mixtures made on the basis of a binder cement composition and various additives that increase adhesion.
• High plasticity. It is necessary that the layer be able to withstand small surface changes in geometry resulting from temperature changes and shrinkage. For these purposes, the composition must contain polymeric plasticizers and other elements that make the dried layer sufficiently flexible.
• Frost resistance.

What kind of plaster is suitable for expanded clay concrete walls

The surface of a building made of such blocks, depending on the purpose of the premises, is covered with:

• A mortar based on sand and cement (see Optimum ratio of cement and sand for plaster). The price of such a composition is relatively small, and its acquisition is available to everyone.
• Special cement-based mixtures with various additives, plasticizers and fillers. It is more convenient to work with such plaster, it is more durable, it has a number of positive characteristics.
• Hydrophobic compositions. It is used to protect the walls of buildings erected in difficult climatic conditions, or surfaces below ground zero.
• Gypsum-based solutions. They are used only for internal plastering of residential premises, which have normal humidity.

Tip: The main requirement for any type of finishing material is the possibility of applying it in a thick layer, and the presence of good vapor permeability.

Features of gypsum plaster for expanded clay houses

Some features of the use of gypsum plaster:

• The basis of the blocks is cement, and the plaster is gypsum.
• The two materials have a different acidity or pH level.
• Expanded clay concrete has an alkaline reaction, while gypsum gives an acid reaction. When mixing such media, a neutralization process occurs.
• After applying gypsum plaster to a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, a neutralization reaction occurs. As a result, strength is lost at the media interface, which can lead to peeling of the plaster.

To solve this problem you will need:

• Prime the wall surfaces well with a primer specially designed for concrete substrates. Wherein:

the first layer is diluted with water so that the composition penetrates deeply into the material, creating a reinforced layer;
after the first has dried, the undiluted second is applied, creating the desired film on the border between the media separations.

• Gypsum plaster is used.

Tip: Priming the surface of the walls must be done without fail, for any type of finish, which significantly increases the adhesion strength of the plaster and the base.

Claydite concrete walls can be finished with any ready-made dry mixes used for buildings made of gas silicate or foam concrete blocks with high vapor permeability (see Plaster for cellular concrete: how to choose).

Claydite concrete wall decoration

Masonry, whether it is made of bricks or blocks, is not recommended to be left unprotected from moisture and frost from the outside of the building, the only exception can be facing bricks of good quality. It is also necessary to take into account such a nuance as the thermal conductivity of the walls of the house. Many private developers are building houses with a single block thickness of the outer wall, 400 mm (one and a half bricks). In this case, the house turns out to be lighter, not requiring a massive foundation. The most important thing is not to focus on this lightness and the foundation is correct. Despite the fact that expanded clay blocks outperform bricks in weight, the laying of a lightweight foundation is completely excluded. Just a minus for walls of this thickness is thermal conductivity. Before you start facing the walls from the outside, you need to think about their insulation.

For external thermal insulation of the house, you can use both extruded polystyrene foam and mineral wool insulation. The latter are non-combustible material, but on the other hand, it is quite possible to plaster on polystyrene foam plates, using a plaster mesh, of course. Mineral wool of low density does not have such advantages, and is suitable only for finishing with siding and panel materials. When laying this type of mineral wool under the siding, care should be taken that it is not blown by the wind; for this, wind-moisture protective vapor permeable insulating membranes are used. Under such a membrane, mineral wool insulation will not be wet and will be reliably protected from wind blowing. There are also high-density mineral wool boards, which are quite suitable for applying plaster on them, but this will not differ much from the use of polystyrene foam, except perhaps incombustibility. Choose for yourself, at your discretion or at a price.

of plaster mixtures for plastering facades at the present time is quite large. Modern plaster compositions do not crack during operation and do not fly off the walls after a season. After plastering, it is recommended to paint the outer walls with special facade paints, which not only protect the walls from excessive wetting, but also do not prevent their vapor permeability. Before plastering, if it is required in the instructions for the use of the plaster mix, it is recommended to treat walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks with “concrete contact”, since these are, first of all, concrete blocks, which include expanded clay. Also, “concrete contact” is necessary when applying plaster inside the house.

Finishing walls with siding, or plastic panels for the facade, is a less time-consuming task than plastering the surface, especially if you also take into account the use of insulation. It is quite possible to handle paneling or siding on your own, but it is not easy to plaster the entire area of ​​​​the walls of the house, it is unlikely that a non-professional can handle it, although there would be a desire ...

Less common is another option for finishing - painting a wall of blocks without applying a plaster layer. If the walls are sufficient to not apply a layer of insulation, why not? This type of finish is quite aesthetic.

Wet facade on the walls of the KBB house

If you want to make a wet facade on your house, then after preparing the walls (leveling, filling cracks, removing excess mortar), you can start warming the walls of the house.

You can use basalt wool with a density of 45 or more and facade foam with a density of 25 or more. The wool is mounted on facade dowels, the foam is mounted on glue and additionally on facade dowels.

At the time of installation of the insulation, a facade fiberglass mesh is attached on top of it, which will reinforce the plaster layer. The mesh is fastened with the same facade dowels with "fungi" that hold the insulation on the wall.

After installing the fiberglass mesh, a base primer layer or two-component plaster is applied. Next, the plaster is primed with a penetrating primer. Modern facade systems allow you to keep the plaster layer in a semi-plastic state, which guarantees its long-term operation.

After priming, you can prepare for applying a decorative layer or for painting.

You can use the following decorative coating options:

• Facade paint paintingDecorative bark beetle plasterPlaster coatDecorative smalted plaster

After applying the decorative layer, you can use fixing compositions and facade varnishes. They will protect the decorative layer from contamination and possible destruction.

In no case should you insulate a house made of expanded clay concrete from the inside. Expanded clay concrete is actually a vapor-tight material. Moisture from the premises will be locked between the insulation and the blocks INSIDE the premises. In this case, you will have all the adverse consequences - dampness in the room, mold under the insulation, and so on.

Application of concrete plaster.

Plastering walls with sand concrete can be done with a "purchased" mixture or prepared independently.

Solution preparation.

To prepare the solution, a concrete mixer or trough is used.

Plaster for outdoor work on concrete is prepared as follows:

1. Sand sifting. For plaster - it is important, since small pebbles, clay impurities and organic residues (leaves, roots) will interfere with the leveling of the plaster.
2. Mixing. First, I combine sand with cement: pour sand and cement into the container and mix them thoroughly.
3. Adding water done in small batches. It is very easy to pour it: at the last moment, when the solution is almost ready, every 200 grams of water can become fatal.

After adding each portion, the mixture is thoroughly mixed.

1. Definition of readiness. The solution must be homogeneous (in color, structure). Its consistency should be such that it easily slides off the trowel, spatula, leaving it almost clean.

The ratio of sand and cement depends on the brand of cement. For example, for the M500 - 5 buckets of sand. BUT, if the cement is not fresh, its concentration is increased by 1 position (1 hour Cement: 4 hours sand).

Plastering walls with homemade sand concrete is the simplest finish available to a non-professional builder.

Plastering of expanded clay concrete blocks - construction

Plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks

Plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks

One of the advantages of expanded clay concrete blocks is that they do not need serious plaster work for cladding. The outer wall can have a layer of plaster only 5 mm thick. Sometimes just grouting, clogging pores is enough. In this case, the inner layer of the substance will be only 5–10 mm. Yes, and plaster can be different.

Varieties

The plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks is gypsum. It is slightly lighter and better in terms of thermal protection, compared with a cement-sand mortar. However, before applying it, it is necessary to treat the surface with concrete contact. It increases adhesion, gives good adhesion of the material to the surface of expanded clay. In some cases, the wall processing step can be skipped if the appropriate solution is selected.

The cement-sand variety of plaster is similar in composition to wall plaster, which increases adhesion. Requires additional reinforcement with a fine-mesh galvanized mesh, which is attached separately to the wall.

In fact, both types of plaster provide equally good thermal insulation. They close micropores, prevent cracks and crevices from protruding. After plastering, the outer surface can be lined with ceramic tiles, cardboard or plastic panels. But first you need to figure out how exactly the plaster is applied to expanded clay concrete blocks.

Applying plaster

In this process, it is necessary to be guided by the material used. If plastering foam and aerated concrete often requires 3-4 stages, then walls made of expanded clay concrete need only two to achieve an ideal result. This is the filling of joints without the use of a reinforcing mesh, after which there is a final plastering with alignment. And if we move away from theory and touch on practice, then we often get by with one stage.

The plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks dries quickly enough, while it is almost not absorbed by the walls. It turns out that the solution, as it were, dries completely “outside”. As a result, there is no special need for the use of mesh to ensure a strong adhesion of the plaster to the expanded clay. A wall plastered in this way does not suffer from daily temperature fluctuations in winter, does not collapse and does not form cracks. In addition, thermal conductivity meets all standards.

Finishing work

In addition to plaster, expanded clay concrete blocks can be painted with any paint, if they are vapor-permeable. No pre-putty is required, which results in a beautiful surface relief of the blocks. However, the consumption of facade paint increases.

In addition, the relief surface of the blocks is well lined with decorative light and heavy tiles made of porcelain stoneware, etc. The main thing is to use good tile adhesive.

When facing, it is important to take into account such a factor as vapor permeability. The steam must escape to the outside, which requires the use of a vapor-permeable grout adhesive

In addition, the installation of plates takes place taking into account the ventilation air gap.

Let's briefly summarize

Claydite concrete block plaster and subsequent lining protect the material from climatic influences, increase its operational properties and unique qualities:

• Humidity regulation
• Breathability
• Excellent thermal inertia
• Ease
• Low thermal conductivity
• Environmental friendliness

And do not forget that you need to choose expanded clay concrete blocks only from a reliable manufacturer, and when working with it, follow all technical construction standards.

According to the materials of the site: http://skb21.ru

Sheathing with plasterboard sheets

There is another way to finish the expanded clay concrete wall from the inside of the building - this is sheathing with plasterboard sheets.

Wall cladding with plasterboard

Anchors, self-tapping screws, etc. hold very well on expanded clay concrete blocks, so metal profiles are attached directly to the wall. In the space between the wall and drywall, you can lay an additional layer of insulation - an additional plus of using drywall sheets.

Installation of drywall sheets is the same as for other types of walls, very simple and fast. After that, it remains only to putty the joints of drywall sheets and cover the entire surface with a thin layer of finishing putty.

Installation of drywall sheets is the easiest type of room decoration, but do not forget that this method hides space.

The three methods described above are the most suitable types of finishing for expanded clay concrete blocks. Which one is better for you, decide for yourself. You can also learn how to properly prepare plaster solutions and apply them to the surface on our website. Have a good repair!

The video below will show you how to plaster block walls.

Warming

When working on the facade, the following must be taken into account:

• practice shows that one of the best options for exterior decoration is the laying of a heat-insulating expanded clay concrete block, which compensates for heat losses up to 75%; mineral wool or polystyrene foam / polystyrene foam acts as an additional insulation; foam plastic is fixed on a cleaned base with an adhesive composition, additionally fastened with dowels. All seams are treated with mounting foam; mineral wool requires stripping, gluing and reinforcing wall structures to increase structural strength; the use of penoizol will achieve sound and waterproofing and reduce thermal conductivity.

Arrangement of plaster under a fur coat

Work can be carried out without insulation or on this layer. The method, known as “fur coat” facade finishing, is carried out by spraying or spraying a solution. This method is less time consuming than working with other materials.

To work with the solution, special devices have been created. The device can be the simplest, with manual control, or more technologically advanced, such as an air gun. At the construction site, the required mobility of the mixture is selected and proceed to finishing.

When choosing materials, you should initially evaluate the amount of work. Finishing cost may be too high

Wall decoration from expanded clay concrete blocks

Exterior decoration of walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks is made of facing ceramic or clinker bricks, crushed stone or plastic facade systems.

Insulation is most often located on the outside of the building. Firstly, the area of ​​the internal rooms does not decrease, and secondly, condensation will not form between the wall surface and the thermal insulation layer, the accumulation of which over time can lead to partial destruction of expanded clay concrete blocks.

Various materials are used as a heater when decorating a house from expanded clay concrete blocks:

• Styrofoam. The most common and technologically advanced material for insulation;
• mineral wool based on basalt fiber. This insulation has high thermal insulation performance, does not crumble and does not lose shape;
• fiberglass. It has a relatively low cost.

For interior decoration, the same rules apply as for other building materials. Cement-sand or gypsum plaster is used. Cladding with drywall, clapboard, plastic panels is possible - guide bars or a metal profile hold well on expanded clay concrete masonry.

Laying ceramic tiles or natural stone is carried out directly on the wall of the house without additional preparation. In this case, a special tile adhesive or cement-sand mortar is used.

Plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks

The plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks from a cement-sand mixture binds well with the masonry - the mixture and the material of the walls are based on a cement binder. The use of a plaster mesh is desirable, but not necessary, it can only be used to strengthen the lintels and armored belt. For cement plaster walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks, a flat galvanized mesh is suitable, which is attached to self-tapping screws. A galvanized perforated suspension, cut into plates with holes, is suitable as washers. Such washers practically do not add thickness to the plaster layer.

This is especially important if the surface is sufficiently even and the minimum thickness of the plaster layer is planned.

The addition of special plasticizers to the solution greatly facilitates the work.

Plaster for expanded clay concrete blocks based on gypsum mixtures is lighter and warmer, due to its lower density. To improve adhesion, the walls of houses are treated with a special compound. There are gypsum mixtures, in which concrete contact components have already been added. When working with them, pre-treatment of the surface is not required. Reinforcement, if necessary, is carried out using a polymer mesh. It is much easier to work with it than with metal.

Facing the house of expanded clay concrete blocks

If the exterior cladding of the house is taken into account in the project, then at the stage of building walls, a special mesh of metal wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm and a cell width of 50 mm is laid. It is laid through two (maximum three) rows of blocks. The thickness of this mesh is not large, so it will not affect the thermal conductivity. The outer wall of facing bricks is connected to the inner wall along the entire perimeter of the building without interruption. Experts recommend simultaneously erecting both walls - the base and the finish, then the outlets of the laid mesh will definitely not rust.

Another option for fixing the cladding of a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks is with the help of flexible plastic clamps. In this case, it is convenient to make a fixed ventilation gap between the thermal insulation layer and the outer wall. The latch is a round rod with a dowel sleeve at one end and an anchor at the other. Holes are drilled in the bearing wall with a vertical pitch of 50-60 cm and a horizontal one of 40-50 cm, into which dowels are hammered. The heat-insulating material is strung on dowels and fixed with plastic clips. The protruding ends of the rods with a sand anchor are walled up in the masonry joints of the facing material.

If external insulation is not planned, then the facing wall can be attached to the carrier using clamps - galvanized steel strips 30-40 mm wide, bent in the shape of the letter "G". Clamps are nailed horizontally in increments of 50-60 cm. The free end is inserted into the seams of the outer masonry.

How warm and durable a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks will be depends not only on the project, the building materials used, but also on the professionalism of the workers, the quality of the work performed. The company "Proekt" provides construction services in Moscow and the Moscow region. Experienced professionals perform indoor and outdoor construction work at affordable prices.

External coating of the house of expanded clay concrete blocks

Insulation of expanded clay concrete walls with fiberglass.

A house made of expanded clay concrete blocks, in terms of which the outer covering of the walls is provided, during their construction is fixed with a special mesh resembling a metal wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm. It is placed in a certain interval, through 2 rows of blocks. The grid has a slight thickness, so the heat conduction coefficient will remain at the same level.

The outer wall, finished with facing bricks, is connected to the inner partition along the perimeter of the building. Many experienced craftsmen at one time build 2 walls at once, one of which is the base, and the other is the finishing option. The laid mesh will not corrode.

A house made of expanded clay concrete blocks, as options for fixing the lining of the coating, may have elastic plastic retainers. A ventilation opening is constructed here, located in the space between the outer base and the layer to retain heat. A rod with a dowel sleeve and an anchor acts as a latch.

Recesses are made on the main wall at a distance of 50-60 cm vertically and 40-50 cm horizontally. Dowels are hammered into them. The base, which serves as a heat insulator, is mounted on dowels and snapped into place with plastic clips.

The construction of expanded clay concrete blocks, not insulated with material, involves the connection with the supporting structure with clamps, that is, strips of steel base, taking the shape of the letter "G". Clamps are fixed at a distance of 50-60 mm.

The high performance of facing buildings from expanded clay concrete blocks is determined by the nature of the building materials used and the experience of the craftsmen.

Based on site materials: http://ostroymaterialah.ru

Question: Good afternoon, ladies and gentlemen! Tell us, please, how best to decorate the outside of a house of expanded clay concrete blocks (KBB), what kind of facade would be appropriate here, what materials can be used? Artur Shakarin, Novosibirsk

The answer is Semyon Fiskunov, CJSC Stroy-Alliance, Togliatti.

Answer: Hello Arthur! I will try to answer your question in detail. Moreover, KBB is a fairly popular material, many owners build their houses from expanded clay concrete blocks.

In the very first place, I would like to ask you a counter question - how thick did you erect the walls of expanded clay concrete? The question is by no means idle.

It depends on your answer whether you will have to insulate your CBB walls, or you can immediately deal with fine exterior finishing and applying a decorative layer.

The main nuances when finishing expanded clay concrete walls

Let's digress a little from the topic, and talk about the material itself. The block, as we already figured out above, consists of concrete and expanded clay. It has good vapor permeability, low thermal conductivity, and is relatively light. However, its surface is far from ideally even - there may be various pores, shells, and protrusions. At the same time, it perfectly absorbs water from the external environment (for example, during rain, or ground). Yes, and its geometric dimensions, as a rule, are characterized by significant deviations - up to several centimeters. It goes without saying that a wall built using these blocks will not be distinguished by surface cleanliness and evenness. Hence the requirement for the thickness of the layer with which the plaster allows you to work.

Of course, thin-layer mixtures can also be used, but, as practice shows, this will be a more laborious, lengthy and expensive process. In this case, it will be necessary to apply several layers, and each must gain a certain strength - and this is time. In addition, it is necessary to provide embedded elements necessary for their connection, or use a special plaster mesh. Alternatively, the first layer can be made in the form of separate “cakes” applied with a trowel or plaster trowel, which is then well primed after hardening, and after that the surface is finally leveled. As you can see, the process is quite tedious.

plaster cost.

The price of plaster includes the amount of materials used (sand, concrete). Hired workers indicate only the cost of their work per m2, without taking into account the cost of purchasing building materials.

The method of calculating the required amount of materials depends on the curvature of the walls:

1. Smooth walls. The plaster has a layer of approx. 2cm. It is enough to multiply 0.02 m (2 cm) by the “square” of the surface to be plastered to get the volume of the required mixture in cubic meters.

The brand of cement also matters: for example, M-500 requires 5 buckets of sand. So, 1/6th of the volume is cement. Accordingly, the resulting value must be divided by 6 to find out how much cement is needed and calculate its cost.

By multiplying this number by 5, you can find out the required amount of sand.

1. Curved walls. The consumption of the solution increases significantly if the walls are curved. They can be curved, concave, or oblique.

It is impossible to reliably accurately calculate the need for a solution with a strong curvature of the walls. It's easier to do this: calculate the volume of plaster in one layer (as if the walls were even), and then add to them the approximate volume of areas that require thicker plastering.

You can buy the components of the mixture in a deliberately smaller volume in order to subsequently acquire the missing amount (when there are not many non-plastered surfaces, it will definitely become easier to calculate). This will help to avoid buying extra material.

Plastering workers charge per sq.m. But this does not apply to special situations. For example, corners are charged per linear meter, not per square meter. This is due to the special complexity of the work.

The way to save money can be as follows: you can plaster the walls yourself, and order professionals to perform more accurate and meticulous work.

Types of plaster

Claydite-concrete walls can be plastered with both cement-based and gypsum-based compositions.

Professional spray plastering of expanded clay concrete wall

Advantages of cement-sand plaster:

• the composition includes cement - a material that is present in the composition of the blocks themselves, which contributes to good adhesion of the plaster to the wall surface;
• enhances the strength of the masonry;
• suitable for interior and exterior decoration;
• the possibility of cooking with your own hands.

Advantages of gypsum plaster:

• not inferior in strength to cement-sand plaster;
• creates a smoother surface;
• has better thermal insulation properties compared to cement-sand mortar.

Plaster with cement-sand mortar

Plastering rooms with high humidity: kitchens, bathrooms, etc., as well as making the cladding outside the building better with a cement-sand mortar.

Cement-sand mortar

An expanded clay wall does not require a thick layer of plaster, it is necessary to level the surface, hide the seams of the masonry, and cement-sand plaster outside the building improves the waterproof qualities of the wall, protects the masonry from temperature changes, and creates a pleasant decorative appearance of the facade of the building.

It is possible to plaster expanded clay with a cement-sand composition without the use of a reinforcing fine-mesh mesh, since usually the plaster layer is no more than 1 centimeter. If there are funds, it is better to use it to increase the strength of the coating; it is very easily attached to expanded clay with dowel-nails with a wide hat, but this is not necessary.

Plastering expanded clay is enough in 2 thin layers, followed by grouting the dried mortar.

Do not forget to clean the surface from dust, debris and protruding masonry mortar before starting work. The solution must be chipped off with a chisel.

Unlike gas silicate blocks, foam blocks, expanded clay concrete blocks do not strongly absorb moisture from the solution, so they can be plastered immediately, without first passing over the surface with a primer. It is enough to moisten the wall with water during the application of the cement-sand mortar.

Gypsum-based plaster

Gypsum plaster has a number of its advantages, so builders use it as often as cement-sand mortar.

Ready-made universal gypsum mixture

Gypsum plaster reduces the thermal conductivity of the building, it is much more plastic and easier to work with. The coating of gypsum plaster turns out to be smoother, you can immediately apply a decorative finish on it, it is perfect for wallpaper, painting. Thanks to modern technologies, compounds are added to gypsum plaster that increase its strength, so heavy facing materials can be glued to gypsum, just like cement-sand mortar. Here, the main thing is to use a gypsum mixture designed specifically for heavy materials.

When plastering expanded clay concrete blocks with a gypsum-based composition, it is imperative to pre-treat the wall surface with agents that improve adhesion between it and the blocks. Such compositions are called "betonokontakt".

For wet rooms, use special gypsum mixes, marked accordingly on the package.

Why you need to plaster the walls of the house from expanded clay concrete

As mentioned above, plastering the walls of a residential building erected from expanded clay concrete is recommended in most cases. What for? Let's think logically. The building block discussed in this article is essentially expanded clay and a cement binder that allows it to maintain a given shape. At the same time, a huge mass of pores is formed in it, through which air circulates quite freely. As a result, folded unplastered walls made of such material will simply be blown through, which will make the dwelling cold and uncomfortable.

Plastering only from the inside will not bring much, reducing the level of heat loss, since cold air will also freely penetrate the wall from the street, up to the inner layers, take heat, and also exit unhindered. This, despite the fact that drafts in this case should not be.

If a decision is made to finish a claydite-concrete house, it must be plastered, both inside and outside. High-quality external and internal plaster will significantly increase the service life of the walls, and will allow you to fully use the heat-insulating properties of the material - you get something like a "thermos" that perfectly retains heat.

Basic requirements for plastering on expanded clay concrete blocks

The simplest and most economical solution for finishing is plastering walls from expanded clay blocks. Wall plastering can be an independent finishing option.

It is also recommended for further finishing with decorative tiles or stone. The application of the plaster composition is necessary to prepare the base of the walls for painting or wallpapering. As an option - finishing with decorative plaster.

Decorative facade plaster

The main requirements for plastering materials for the considered blocks:

• High strength of the resulting coating.
• Creation of moisture resistant protection.
• Good adhesion to expanded clay concrete.
• Sufficient plasticity of the material.

Lightweight concrete products have a low resistance to mechanical damage to the front surface. The porous structure of the material easily absorbs water, which, accumulating in the pores, eventually leads to the destruction of the material. Therefore, expanded clay blocks require good protection of their surface from moisture and mechanical stress.

Reliable fixation of the plaster layer on the wall is achieved by good mutual adhesion of materials. To avoid cracking of the plaster due to shrinkage of the masonry, sufficient plasticity of the materials used is required.

Do-it-yourself bath from expanded clay concrete blocks

Even in not so ancient times, baths were built almost exclusively from timber and sometimes from brick, because these materials were considered optimal in terms of heat retention and resistance to moisture. In addition, the tree was quite accessible to any builder. But accessibility does not mean durability - constant moisture relatively quickly began to disable such structures.

1. Preparation for construction
2. Foundation device
3. Construction of a bath
4. Finishing and insulation

The search for a worthy alternative continued for many years, but only today materials have appeared that can fully replace the wood in the walls of the bath.

Advantages of expanded clay concrete blocks

One of these materials are blocks of expanded clay concrete. They are made from several different components using vibrocompression. Expanded clay, which is foamed and fired clay, sand and cement, are mixed and compacted using high pressure vibration loads. The result is a building material characterized by lightness and high strength.

The main advantages that distinguish expanded clay concrete blocks from other building materials are:

• absolute non-toxicity of expanded clay concrete blocks, which are among the most environmentally friendly materials;
• weak absorption of moisture by blocks, as a result, they are not subject to the destructive effects of steam and water, unlike wood;
• excellent thermal insulation properties, due to which heat is well preserved inside the bathhouse without large-scale insulation work;
• the relative lightness of wall blocks (8 kg), which allows you to build a bathhouse on your own, without resorting to outside help.

Preparation for construction

Like the work on the construction of any building, the construction of a bath from expanded clay blocks begins with the creation of a project and the acquisition of the necessary materials in the right amount.

For construction you will need:

• expanded clay concrete blocks;
• brick;
• material for waterproofing;
• cement;
• wooden slats;
• lining;
• fixing material;
• roofing material.

Foundation device

Usually, two types of foundation are used for a bath: strip or columnar. Tape is a continuous strip of concrete or brick, outlining the contour of the building being erected. And at the columnar support, separate pillars serve. Walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks will not create a heavy load on the base, so a columnar foundation is better for a bath.

Wall cladding options

Reduced heat transfer resistance of various enclosing structures.

Natural stone or ceramic tiles are determined directly on the wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, there is no need for preparatory work. For better fixing of these materials, tile glue or a mixture of cement and sand is taken.

As indicated earlier, the buildings of the sample under consideration are not left bare, unprotected from the external influences of nature. Of course, if we are not talking about high-quality facing bricks

Despite the fact that buildings made of expanded clay blocks are lightweight, it is very important to correctly calculate the foundation.

Therefore, the small weight of such materials does not give grounds for the construction of a lightweight version of the foundation. The disadvantage of such overlaps will be their low thermal conductivity. Before facing external walls, care must be taken to carry out warming measures.

So, mineral wool does not burn, a plaster layer can be applied to it, using a special mesh for this.

This cannot be said about mineral wool. It is designed to decorate the building with siding and other materials in the form of panels. Mineral wool, laid under the siding, must be protected from the wind.

For such purposes, membranes are used that have properties to protect against wind and moisture. In this case, the insulation will be dry and provide reliable protection from rain and wind. There are also such heaters based on mineral wool with a special durable layer on which plaster can be applied.

It is worth noting that the external decoration of the walls of the house with plastic panels or siding will not be such a difficult undertaking, unlike finishing the surface with plaster. If plastering the base of the house is only possible for an experienced craftsman, then here you can do all the work yourself. Sometimes a method of painting walls is used without first plastering the surface, but it is used very rarely.

Scheme of the device of a heat block with expanded clay concrete.

One of the frequently used options for finishing the outer shells of the house will be ceramic, clinker and brick cladding.

The least expensive option would be to treat the surface with a layer of cement-sand plaster. The last finishing option, together with facade paints, helps to form original surfaces and an unusual appearance. Plaster is in the best possible contact with expanded clay concrete, it is actively used for bases that are constantly changing under the influence of external temperatures and are periodically damaged. The facade lined with natural stone looks very beautiful and original.

He is not afraid of frost, while it looks monolithic, chic and unusual. This material can be completely replaced with artificial stone. It is no worse than the natural version, and it is much cheaper.

As a finishing option, thermal panels made of polyurethane and clinker tiles will complement the outer shells of the house well. This method of finishing can be called the least expensive.

Panels of such a plan are lightweight, they are often used with a strip base. They are strong, environmentally friendly, create a stable microclimate in the room, regardless of the season. Installation work is extremely simple, even a non-professional can do it.

Ventilated facades skillfully hide possible flaws in wall coverings. In the space between the wall and the facing layer, there is a constant movement of air, as a result of which the base is not subjected to destructive influence.

Siding can be attributed to an inexpensive option for decorating exterior walls. However, such panels are quite fragile and can break, which is not very well reflected on the wall of expanded clay concrete. Houses made of this material can stand for a century, but here it is important to choose the right finishing option so that the base is securely completed.

When arranging an attic or attic, the installation of dormer windows has become popular. And it's not just about the design of the roof, which looks more elegant and transforms the appearance of the house. The functionality of such a structure consists in additional ventilation of the room, its natural lighting and expansion of space.

Whatever the size of the house, no one will refuse extra useful meters. Most roof structures are designed in such a way that the truss system significantly reduces the area, which affects comfort. Dormer windows on the roof make up for these shortcomings. The modernized room is bright and comfortable to use.

Types of designs of dormer windows

In the gable wall, the windows are located on the end side of the roof. They are built-in window frames with the function of ventilation and lighting. Useful area is not increased. Holes are not made in the roofing.

Dormer is a frame structure protruding above the roof. By increasing the space, not only the configuration of the roof changes, but also the appearance of the house. For practicality, several windows are installed at once, which can be located on one or both sides of the roof slopes.

The antidormer resembles the design features of the dormer, but the frame deepens into the plane of the roof, which reduces the usable area of ​​the attic. This type is used in large areas where hiding space will not create discomfort during operation.

Read also: Do-it-yourself mosaic decoration of external walls

An inclined window, consisting of only a window frame, is mounted in the plane of the roof. Functionality comes down to lighting and ventilation of the attic.

Often used in the arrangement of the attic are dormer varieties, justified by great functionality:

- ventilation;

- increase in space;

- lighting;

- Improving the general appearance of the building.

The shape of the dormer window can repeat different geometric shapes:

- square;

- rectangle;

- triangle;

Arched opening frame configurations are popular and greatly enhance the overall look of the home.

Rules for installing dormer windows in the roof

There are no clearly regulated rules for installing windows in the roofing surface. Basically adhere to the general building technologies and norms. Still, there are some nuances that you should pay attention to.

Installation of dormer windows is allowed only on a roof with a slope of 35 degrees.

The minimum parameters of the wings are 0.6 x 0.8 m.

It is unacceptable to place windows next to the ridge, gables, cornices.

Window structures are built between the rafters. Only sawing of a small part of the load-bearing beams is allowed, followed by redistribution of the load on adjacent rafters. It is forbidden to do a full saw cut, as the rigidity of the roof and the loss of its bearing capacity may be disturbed.

Read also: House insulation with mineral wool

Dormer windows should not protrude beyond the boundaries of the outer wall of the house.

When installing several windows in a row, an interval of at least 0.8 m must be observed.

When determining the number of windows and their parameters, they take into account the rules of proportionality: the sum of the width of all openings should correspond to half the length of the attic space.

The design of the window system is built according to all the rules of roofing structures. Includes: rafters, lathing, roofing, drainage system.

Stages of installation of a dormer window

Like any construction, the installation of a window structure begins with the development of a project that takes into account important factors:

- the choice of the type of window structure;

— determination of the number of windows and their parameters;

- calculation of the bearing capacity of the roof and the structure as a whole;

- mounting options and materials used.

Drawing up drawings will facilitate subsequent installation.

After completion of the design and preparatory work, installation begins. The frame of the dormer window is assembled first, on which a crate is subsequently made in increments of 50-55 cm. Next, the ridge part is installed and the rafter system is mounted. If the installation is carried out during the construction of the roof, then the finished frame is fixed to the rafters of the main roof structure. When equipping the existing roof with windows, first a place is cut in the roofing pie for the auditory object without damaging the load-bearing beams. Then the frame is installed and fixed to the rafters.

A dormer window on the roof is usually equipped to provide ventilation in the attic or attic.

In addition, they also serve to create a beautiful appearance of the roof and the whole house.

A skylight or dormer window in the attic is a frame with glass that is built into the plane of the roof.

It can have a wide variety of shapes and designs, thanks to which the look of the whole house becomes original and unique and the building acquires its own style.

What are dormer windows?

• with a flat roof;
• quadrangular single slope;
• with a hip roof;
• triangular;
• quadrangular with a gable roof;
• panoramic with a trapezoid roof;
• attic;
• round or semicircular;
• all glass and many other options.

Dormer windows on the roof serve to ventilate the room in which no one lives, so that all wooden structures do not rot.

They are used as a door to the roof for repairs and maintenance, as well as an emergency exit in case of fire and other incidents.

If you have a living space in the attic, then the design of the dormer window can be used for lighting.

True, experts say that such openings let much less sun into the house than attic ones, since the side walls prevent light from entering inside.

They can be installed on the roof of almost any design - single-pitched, gable, four-pitched, broken, multi-gable.

A wide variety of options for combining a house with a view of the opening are possible, and it can be placed both on the roof itself and on the pediment.

If you have chosen a flat roof option for your home, then it should be borne in mind that such a device must be equipped with additional gutters for drainage.

Therefore, the roof must be made at a slope of approximately 5 to 15º.

The quadrangular variant with a gable and shed roof is similar in design to a flat roof window, but the slope angle of the slopes should be from 15 º.

Triangular options are often found on the roof of private houses and summer cottages. Instead of side walls, it has slopes.

So you can mount it with fewer joints, but much less light will enter the room.

The round shape looks very interesting. It makes the appearance of the house very unusual.

The most interesting option, both in terms of functionality and appearance, is a dormer window in the form of a skylight.

It makes the house visually lighter and more airy, and it lets a lot of sun into the rooms.

The roof window is also attached between the rafters. Use them on slopes 15 - 20º. This is a barrier to water flow, so the device of this option is very complex.

Making this product with your own hands is almost impossible, so it is best to order ready-made wooden or plastic windows from specialists.

Finished products from manufacturers have a special salary, which, when opened, protects the room from water ingress.

Dormer window design

Before creating a drawing of your future dormer window, you should familiarize yourself with the requirements of SNiP. Compliance with SNiP is necessary for the installation of a dormer or roof window with your own hands.

By adhering to the requirements of SNiP, you will receive a reliable and durable product with powerful performance parameters.

The main requirements of SNiP for dormer windows:

• Installation is possible only if the roof has an inclination angle of 35º;
• Add-ons must be placed at a clearly defined distance from the outer walls;
• According to the requirements of SNiP, the sashes must be at least 0.6 by 0.8 m, that is, the size of the opening must be at least 1.2 by 0.8 m;
• If you want to make an opening with a hip roof, then it will not continue the wall of the house.

As for materials, copper, metal sheets, tiles are used for sheathing. Some options may have their own roof, ledges, gutters.

If a very large opening is made in the roof, then it can serve as a balcony.

Based on the parameters of your home, it also depends on what kind of dormer windows you can make with your own hands.

skylight frame

When you have determined the dimensions of your opening, you should develop drawings of the future product. It should not only fulfill its functions, but also decorate the facade of the house.

Experts say that the total width of the auditory openings should be more than half the width of the attic.

After you have drawn up a drawing, you can start the device of the product with your own hands. Production must begin when the roof support system of the entire structure is installed.

The roof of the opening has its own load-bearing structures and crate, if it is gable, then it has its own hobby. The design of the auditory opening is similar to the design of the house, only miniature.

First, the pediments are made on the roof of the house, then the ridge beam and rafters are attached. Holes are made in the right places.

They are protected by very strong rafters, as they will bear the entire load. You can use double and even triple rafters.

After that, beams are attached across the rafters. The lower beam will be placed at the level of the outer wall of the building. And the top - as provided by the size of the future window.

This is a frame that does not yet have its own truss system.

So the rafters can lose their bearing capacity. All elements must be fastened to metal fasteners.

The rafters can be cut out in a pattern, which will greatly simplify the opening device.

The walls are sheathed with materials that are resistant to moisture, and the roof is made along with the installation of the roof of the whole house.

Particular attention should be paid to isolating the joints from moisture in order to prevent leaks.

Membranes, silicone sealants, clamping strips are used as insulating materials.

If you want to make a do-it-yourself skylight, then such a device is installed directly in the roof.

Their advantage is that they let more sunlight into the rooms, and installation is much faster.

In this article, we will consider the question of what advantages a gable roof with windows has, why roof windows are needed, what types of skylights exist, whether it is necessary to violate the integrity of the roofing when installing the described element.

Should skylights be installed? If the house has a large area, if the space under the roof is equipped for housing, yes. The described element helps to equip the ventilation of the attic, properly executed, it easily becomes a spectacular design move that allows you to complete the overall stylistic concept. Simple dormer windows are doors to the roof, they allow, if something happens, to repair the roof, to help evacuate in case of fire.

The roof window can be of different shapes, different designs. To understand how one species differs from another, the next section of the article will prompt.

Types of skylights

A roof window is a glazed frame built into the plane of the roof. The shape of this frame may be different. Experts distinguish four main types of structures. They are clearly shown in the published photo.

Frame in gable wall

A window in a gable wall is the easiest option for installing a glazing frame. Located between two slopes, it can be of any shape: triangular, round, oval, trapezoidal.

The most popular option is considered to be a rectangular dormer window. It is easy to assemble and install such a frame with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialists. Semicircular frames have an unusual name. The people called them "bull's eye". A frame of this shape looks very impressive on roofs covered with tiles. This type of dormer windows has one advantage - the absence of sharp corners prevents the accumulation of snow, rainwater from such a frame flows immediately, without lingering on its ledges.

Triangular dormer windows often adorn the roofs of country mansions. The side walls of this design replace the slopes located at an angle of 60 degrees to each other. The triangular frame design has certain features: their main purpose is to ensure the flow of fresh air into the attic. The triangular design does not contribute to the penetration of sunlight, therefore, such structures are not used to illuminate the attic. The side walls of a triangular window do not need to be carefully sealed. And all because they are joined to the roof with the help of a groove or an irregularly shaped valley. The front part of the triangular frame is not buried in the roof, it is flush with the rest of the walls. For special showiness, a triangular dormer window must be located closer to the lower tier of the roof.

Installing such a design is quite simple. There is no need to build additional roofing elements for this. Most often, those who are going to perform the auditory opening on their own choose just such an option for its installation.

Dormer

Dormer - a frame structure that is located above the roof slope. It is quite difficult for non-professionals to perform it on their own. And all because before installation it is necessary to carry out complex calculations. The main installation condition is the need to strengthen the supporting structure on the gable roof and to waterproof the frame well before glazing. The photo shows all types of dormer, you can make it gable, arched, built-in, panoramic, triangular.

Note! The chosen version of the dormer window must be combined with the architectural style of the house.

Antidormer

Antidormer, its design is directly opposite to the design of the dormer. It also settles on the slope of the roof, but does not come out of the roof, but, on the contrary, goes deep into the roof of the roof. Designing this type of frame is easier than drawing up a dormer drawing, but despite this, the anti-dormer did not take root well in Russia. And all because the described design reduces the useful area of ​​​​the attic space.

Skylights

An inclined window (it is also a roof window) is in line with the roof slope. The use of metal-plastic allows you to perform an attic version of any configuration. Such an element does little to decorate the roof, but without it it is impossible to equip the attic with natural lighting. The choice of this option is justified when the attic is converted into a living space.

Roof windows are installed between two rafters located next to each other. It is possible to equip such window frames only where the angle of inclination of the roof is at least 20 degrees. Otherwise, the roof window will become a barrier to water flows. No waterproofing in this case will save the roof from leaking.

Doing frames yourself for skylights is not worth it. It is better to buy ready-made insulating glass, produced in the factory. Its design is carefully designed and developed in such a way as to exclude the very possibility of flooding the under-roof space. Installing a ready-made window is not particularly difficult. Support frames are attached directly to the roof. The roof window can be opened for ventilation even when it rains.

Design features

Many years of experience in installing frames in the roof made it possible to formulate the basic rules for their placement. You should definitely familiarize yourself with them in advance.

• Firstly, any dormer window should not be close to the roof ridge, as well as to the roof eaves. Do not install window frames close to the front parts of the roof.
• Secondly, when installing two elements adjacent to each other, the distance between the two elements should not be less than 80 cm. If the location is closer, it will be impossible to lay the roofing. The closer location of the dormer windows provokes some difficulties in the operation of the roof. So, for example, this will certainly make it difficult to carry out preventive measures, the close location of the dormer windows will provoke the accumulation of snow on the roof in winter. And this is also not good from an operational point of view.
• Thirdly, dormer windows can only be installed on those roofs whose slope angle is at least 35 degrees.

Note! Cuts and tie-ins into the common roof frame system cannot be made.

Mounting Features

We will describe the features of installing the auditory frame using the example of installing a dormer.

It is necessary to install dormer windows on the roof immediately after the installation of a common truss system. To do this, it is necessary to assemble the fronts, rafters and ridge timber. Then a drawing of the dormer is drawn up in advance. It should look something like the one shown in the photo.

As you can see in the photo, the dormer frame is assembled from bars. The walls of the dormer window rest on the roof guides, the bars are attached to them at a right angle. If the window width exceeds the standard dimensions, the load on the rafters will be increased. In order to prevent the roof from collapsing, where the dormer will be installed on the rafters, another one is placed next to one beam, increasing the stability of the rafter.

Note! It is better to fasten the racks of the dormer walls to the doubled rafters with special fixing metal corners. Jumpers should not be used for these purposes. They will help weaken the entire structure of the dormer.

The next stage is the construction of the window frame frame. In fact, it is a miniature roof, which is why it is so important to first carry out the correct calculations of the described structure. First, window openings are fenced with strong wooden beams, which roofers call legs. The photo shows this stage. They will take on the load of the entire frame.

The transverse beams are laid in such a way that the lower one lies parallel to the wall of the house, the upper one - where the height of the future window ends. The longitudinal bars are installed. They help secure the frame to the top beam of the rafter guide. At this stage, it is necessary to arm yourself with a building level and check with it the location of the assembled frame vertically and horizontally. It is important to “cut out” all the elements of the dormer in advance, according to the drawing made, the dormer frame is assembled according to the photo, which shows the schematic structure of the dormer window.

Note! Roofing on a gable roof is mounted simultaneously with the roofing of the dormer window. Only in this case it is possible to build a solid coating, durable and of high quality, capable of withstanding the effects of precipitation.

The front sides of the dormer are pre-sheathed with either moisture-resistant plywood or sheets of OSB boards. Roofing material is laid on top of them. In order for the slopes of the dormer windows to be docked with the roof slope, valleys are used.

Generalization on the topic

If you want to install a dormer window on your roof, you must definitely contact the experts. Their help will help you choose the right frame design, which will most successfully fit into the stylistic decision of the house. It is important to start the installation work with drawing up a drawing of the frame structure. As a rule, modern window manufacturers produce ready-made double-glazed windows of standard sizes. The easiest way is to take them as a basis and, starting from such decisions, calculate the structure of the dormer window frame. If you study the topic in advance, watch the training video, you can try to install the decorative element on the roof yourself. The main thing in this matter is not to rush, carefully think through all the stages of work in advance and strictly follow the plan. When working on the roof, it is imperative to follow safety rules, always be insured and not work on top alone.