Laying tiles on a wooden floor - tips from the masters. How to lay tiles on a wooden floor, preparing the base for laying tiles How to lay a wooden floor to lay tiles

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Often in houses of old construction, the floors are made of wood, in living rooms this material is good in many ways, but here's what to do if the floors in the bathroom are made of wood, and you plan to lay tiles. And so the logical question arises whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. We immediately answer, yes, it is possible, but only by strictly observing the technology for performing work, which we will discuss in detail in this article.

Difficulties encountered when laying tiles on wood

First, a little about why laying tiles on a wooden floor is undesirable:

The first and, of course, the main reason is the fact that wood, the material is absolutely not static and is subject to all sorts of changes over time and under the influence of environment, it could be heat and excessive humidity in the bathroom. These impacts do not have the best effect on the state of the wooden floor structure and, as a result, the tiles laid on it will eventually collapse.
The second reason is no less important, the fact that the tile, glued to the base of lumber, creates a sealing layer that prevents air from entering the wooden structure. As a result, due to lack of ventilation, the wood will rot and eventually decay.

Methods for preparing the base for tiling

As we made a reservation at the very beginning of our article, there is a solution to the issue. It is only necessary to prepare the surface for tiling properly. Moreover, there are three ways to do it:

Express way to prepare the base.
Making a new screed over a wooden floor ( wet screed).
Dry surface leveling method.

express way

The method is suitable provided that the wooden floor structure is in excellent condition. In this case, the implementation of preparing the foundation will be the least expensive. Scroll necessary materials limited to moisture resistant drywall (GKVL) and polyurethane adhesive having an elastic structure that is not disturbed in case of any movement wooden base. And the process itself will look like this:

The condition and level of the floor horizontally is carefully checked. If differences are found, they should be leveled using various materials of suitable thickness (fiberboard and others).
On the finished base, put in two layers, moisture-resistant drywall. At the same time, GKVL sheets must be laid in such a way that the seams between the upper and lower rows do not match.
Along the perimeter of the room, between the arranged structure and the wall, it is required to leave a technological gap.
Joints between drywall sheets are filled with sealant.
The surface thus obtained is primed with a primer.
After the tile is laid, the technological gap is sealed with a sealant and a plinth is installed.

The advantages of this method will be:

resistance to possible movements of the wooden structure of the base;
the time to prepare the base is much less than when using other methods;
the relative cheapness of the work performed.

"Wet" screed

Substrate preparation by this method is not much different from traditional surface preparation by means of a device. cement-sand screed. The only thing to remember is that load bearing capacity the wooden floor structure has its limitations, and therefore the screed should be no thicker than three centimeters. It is also possible to use various self-leveling compounds on polymeric or cement base, while the screed is obtained with a thickness of 1 cm.

The materials used, it is better to purchase reliable and trusted manufacturers in order to be sure of a good end result.

Stages of work:

Assessment of the condition of the existing floor structure.
When the support logs are located more than 50 cm from one another, it is necessary to carry out measures to further strengthen the structure, using wooden blocks for this.
The device "rough" flooring. If the condition of the floorboard is beyond doubt and has a thickness of at least 40 mm, then it can also be used. The board should be mounted to the lags with a gap of 8-10 mm. This is done so that the tree is ventilated during operation and does not rot.
On the resulting rough flooring, we fasten plywood or chipboard sheets 12 mm thick. They should be laid in the form brickwork. It is necessary to mount the sheets not close to each other, but with a gap of 2-3 mm.
Waterproofing device. Can be used as specialized waterproofing materials, and others, such as oiled or waxed paper and polyethylene film. The material is distributed over the entire base area with a transition to adjacent walls to a height of 8-10 cm.
Pouring screed homemade cement-sand mortar or ready-made self-levelling compound.

Dignity this method will be the reliability and strength of the base not subject to deformation as a result of the movements of the wooden frame.

To disadvantages can be attributed to high labor costs and a decrease in the height of the room due to the formation of an additional screed.

Dry surface preparation

A very popular and widespread method, which has many advantages in comparison with the method in which the screed is performed, which is associated with labor-intensive and, moreover, dirty work. Therefore, many professionals and just home craftsmen prefer this particular method of preparing the base.

The tile in this case is laid on plywood or chipboard. To give rigidity to the structure under construction, plywood must be used no thinner than 22 mm when mounted on a subfloor, and in the case of mounting directly on logs, the thickness is increased to 30 mm.

Let's highlight some points that you need to pay attention to:

To relieve internal stress, plywood must be cut into four squares.
When laying plywood on logs, the distance between them should not exceed 40 cm. If the gaps are larger, then additional supports are required. Otherwise, the plywood will sag, which will lead to the inevitable destruction of the tiled surface.
Plywood blanks must be placed on the black floor in a checkerboard pattern.
It is necessary to fasten plywood to the base quite often with the help of wood screws.
During installation, you should constantly monitor the horizontalness of the surface, so that later, evenly and without problems, lay the tile.

If you did not have the material of the required thickness available, then in this case, it is possible to use thinner plywood, but at the same time put it in two layers glued together and additionally connected with self-tapping screws.

Remember to check that the seams of different layers do not coincide with each other, and also monitor the presence of a gap between individual sheets to ensure the movement of material during thermal expansion.

The width of such a gap should be 2-3 mm. Between the wall and the structure to be installed, along the entire perimeter, the gap should be 10-12 mm. Subsequently, it is closed mounting foam or sealant and closed with a plinth.

Before facing the base with ceramics, you need to prepare the plywood thoroughly, clean it from dirt, and then sand it. After that, the plywood is finally cleaned of dust with a damp sponge. Then the base is treated with antiseptic compounds, water-repellent primers and a waterproofing layer is applied. Further on the front side of the base is attached a masking net sickle. This event will significantly improve the adhesion of ceramics to the base material. Next, several layers of primer are applied, which, in addition to adhesive qualities, will give the structure additional moisture protection.

Choosing the Right Adhesive

Not every adhesive mixture is suitable for working on plywood and chipboard. An indispensable condition for such an adhesive should be the inclusion in its composition of elements with high elastic performance. The consistency of such a mixture is quite liquid and therefore there is no need to tap the laid tile with a hammer, it is quite easy to press the fragment to the base with the adhesive mixture applied to it.

There are also non-standard ways of gluing tiles to plywood. Craftsmen use liquid nails for this, a solution of sodium silicate (better known as stationery glue or liquid glass), and even homemade compositions from a mixture of NC varnish with polystyrene foam dissolved in acetone or gasoline. But you must be aware that there will be no guarantee of long-term operation of the resulting coating. As the classics said: "This is not our method ...". Saving in the choice of glue is a big delusion.

Do not prepare too much adhesive mixture, as it sets quickly enough. The recommended volume of ready-made adhesive should ensure the laying of 1 sq.m. tiles.

The process of laying ceramics on a plywood surface is no different from the traditional installation of tiles on a concrete or cement-sand base. Recall that laying tiles on a wooden floor is not a completely standard event, and therefore, in order to obtain a high-quality result, it is necessary to strictly follow the process technology and all recommendations and instructions.

Theoretically, it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor, but such material has several significant disadvantages, which can lead to a deterioration in the condition of the cladding. Wood tends to shrink or swell when environmental conditions change. To prevent cracking of the tile coating, it is necessary to properly prepare the base. Violation of laying technology is the reason for the reduction of the service life of the cladding.

The tile is recommended to be laid on a solid solid base. If this is not possible, other options should be considered. Many people wonder if it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. For this, the following factors should be taken into account:

tile is considered a “cold” material, while wood, on the contrary, retains heat well, for this reason it is not advisable to cover it with such a lining;
when installing wood, it should be possible for it to “breathe”, then the material will last much longer, and ceramics do not let air through;
tiles are rarely laid on a wooden floor, because this type of cladding is superior natural material in terms of service life, as a result, the base will quickly collapse, and along with it will be damaged decorative coating;
the tree is not static, which makes it an unsuitable option for the floor if it is planned to perform cladding with ceramic products;
when expanding or shrinking wood surface finishing material deformed, and first of all, the integrity of the seam joints between the coating elements is violated.

How to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

Work is carried out on logs - these are wooden crossbars, which are characterized by a large cross section. They perform the function of supporting the whole object or some structural elements. The wooden floor is also in most cases mounted on top of the log. If tiling is to be performed, a rough base must be prepared. Floor condition may vary:

The floorboards are completely dismantled due to their poor condition: extensive rot, cracks, and dust have appeared. If the flooring is damaged, it will be necessary to remove all or only some of the covering elements. After removing them, check the state of the lag. If they are not damaged, you can continue the installation work. In the case when the lags were also affected negative factors, these elements are being replaced or restoration is being carried out: the crossbars are only partially changed, treated with special compounds.

Sometimes logs are covered with cheaper materials - these are chipboard, OSB, plywood. On next step cladding is being installed.

If it can be seen that the logs are in good condition, the base in the form of a flooring is left in its original form, but the floor structure is checked for damage. IN this case the tree has just been laid, or the base was installed not so long ago and has not had time to wear out. In both cases, the flooring is not changed, but additional leveling may be required.

For each of the options, they select their own cladding technology, since the process of preparing the base is different.

First method: dry leveling

Prepare the base for laying tiles. To prevent the lining from deforming during operation, its installation is carried out on plates / sheets used to level the floor on the logs. Materials that can be used for this purpose:

drywall, characterized by moisture resistance;
gypsum fiber sheet;
cement particle boards;
moisture resistant plywood.

All these varieties fit in 1 or 2 layers. You can fix the plates with self-tapping screws, and the installation step of the fastening elements should be small, otherwise the coating will “play” when walking. To make the rough base more durable, it is recommended to process the end sections using a special glue that is designed to work with the material.

If the wooden floor is mounted in a bathroom, kitchen or other room where humidity regularly rises and there is a high probability of contact with water, the board joints are covered with polymer waterproofing membrane type. It is important to protect the corner areas where the wall meets the floor. Here, the waterproofing is applied with a slight overlap on the wall (up to 5 cm).

Preparation of a wooden floor for tiles is carried out before installation of the cladding. For this, a primer is used. They process the resulting coating. At the next stage, a paint grid is laid. From above, it is recommended to perform a second priming procedure. Such a measure will improve the adhesion of the adhesive and the base. An important point is the need to lay the subfloor slabs so that the docking connection falls in the middle of the wooden cross member (log).

Cement particle boards should be laid on top of drywall / plywood. They are the main structural element of the dry leveling floor. This is due to the sufficient strength of such products, their durability. During the installation of the base, its surface is constantly checked for workmanship, for which a level is used. Do not lay tiles on uneven floors.

Advantages of the dry leveling method:

you can add a layer of insulation to the design of the subfloor;
due to the low weight of the floor, the level of load on the logs is reduced;
high installation speed, because in this case it is not necessary to work with a cement screed.

So that the process does not have to be interrupted, the necessary materials are preliminarily calculated: the number of plates, fasteners, and cladding is determined. There are also disadvantages to this method. For example, the installation of a multilayer floor structure, which also rises on logs, will help reduce the height of the ceilings. This means that dry leveling technology is not suitable for all objects.

Second method: wet screed

Can be put tile on a wooden floor, having previously applied the traditional leveling method using cement screed, but in a lighter version. By itself, a wooden frame (logs, plank flooring) will not be able to provide a sufficient level of strength. Its bearing capacity is low, so the tile coating will not last long.

It is recommended to use the floating floor installation technology. Here the screed will not have direct contact with wooden frame and walls. It is separated from other structural elements of the object with the help of a sufficiently dense waterproofing material. To level the floor, a polymer leveler or a cement-based mixture is often used.

The screed layer can be 10-30 mm. If the thickness exceeds 10 mm, a polymer mesh is used to strengthen the structure. Sequencing:

Prepare the base. First, the old flooring is dismantled, if any. Then the quality of the wood from which the logs are made is checked. The next step is to change the distance between the crossbars. It should not exceed 50 cm. If necessary, attach additional beams. In progress restoration work check if there is a gap between the wall and the end sections of the log. It should be 1 cm. Due to this, the coating will not deform when the material expands under conditions high humidity.
The lag structure is treated with an antiseptic composition. Considering that the tree is not moisture resistant material, it is important to exclude the possibility of the formation of fungus.
Boardwalk is installed. Use material with a thickness of at least 4 cm. The recommended distance between the boards is 1 cm. If you lay them close to each other, you will need to make holes in wooden deck, which will provide the possibility of ventilation of the structure.
Moisture resistant plywood is mounted. The sheets are laid in the opposite direction to the floorboards. The recommended thickness of this material is 12 mm. The subfloor is fastened with zinc-coated self-tapping screws. Their installation step is 20 cm. Plywood sheets should also be placed at a small distance from each other, but in this case the gap width should not exceed 3 mm.
A material is laid on top of the structure that is not susceptible to moisture. Suitable Options waterproofing: bituminous / paraffin paper, dense polyethylene. The strips of material are overlapped with a margin of 10 cm. The edge is fixed with adhesive tape. Waterproofing starts on the walls, strip width - 10 cm.
Along the perimeter of the room along the walls is laid damper tape, its thickness should be 0.8-1.0 mm, and its width - 10 cm.
Fill the base of the floor with an additional screed. After drying, you can lay the tile. For this, tile adhesive is used.

Third Method: Express Option

Laying ceramic tiles on a wooden floor is carried out using a similar technology as in the previously considered case with a screed, however, only sheets of moisture-resistant drywall are used as a rough base. They can be mounted in 2 layers. The sheets are arranged so that the seams do not overlap.

Moisture-resistant drywall is fastened using a two-component polyurethane adhesive. With it, the expansion of wood is leveled in conditions of high humidity. In this case, a slight change in the dimensions of the subfloor is compensated by an elastic adhesive mixture. In addition, silicone-based sealant is used to connect drywall sheets.

In order for the tree to be able to expand without the risk of deformation of the tile, a gap of 1 cm is left between the wall and the end sections of the rough base. The finishing material is laid out after applying the primer to the surface of the drywall.

In order not to have to repair the coating soon, you should follow the advice of the masters for laying tiles on a wooden floor:

it is necessary to use well-dried wood, otherwise, after completion of work, the structure will shrink;
during the installation of logs, floorboards and other elements of the draft base, it is recommended to constantly use building level, this is necessary so that the surface of the structure is even, with minimal errors at different points in the room;
if the boards and logs are not evenly spaced, the situation is corrected with the help of any materials at hand, their choice is determined by the size of the gap to be filled: fiberboard, slats, thin boards, roofing material and even cardboard;
the technological gap around the perimeter of the room should be closed silicone sealant, which will allow the wooden structure to expand in conditions of high humidity without the risk of breaking the tightness of the waterproofing layer.

The principle of laying tiles on the floor is the same as when this type of cladding is mounted on top of a solid concrete base. Work begins from a corner, and it is advisable to choose a site in the room that is most open for review.

As many experts assure, the quality and service life floor covering primarily depends on similar parameters of the floor itself. Ceramic tile is primarily a heavy floor covering that not every base can withstand.

Someone claims to lay ceramic tiles do not stand on a wooden base under any circumstances. The question is serious and it requires no less serious attitude to itself. You can also lay tiles on if before that it is maximum securely prepare following pre-planned instructions.

Photo: laying tiles on a wooden floor

Stage one - inspection

The very first stage is a thorough inspection of the wooden surface for the presence of various, even insignificant at first glance, flaws and defects. You need to make sure that the wood is not rotten or cracked. Otherwise, damaged elements should be replaced.

The second stage - wood processing

If the wooden surface is painted or varnished, everything must be completely cleaned. There are three main methods of how to quickly withdraw paint coatings:

Thermal
Chemical
Mechanical

most reliable and fast way, thermal- it is necessary to use an industrial hair dryer, which easily melts the paint with an air stream at a temperature of 300-600 degrees.

Removing paint with a hair dryer

Chemical method consists in the use of special substances, under the influence of which paint and varnish coatings also easily peel off wooden surfaces. These are specialized thick formulations and solvents widely sold in construction stores.

Removing paint from the floor with solvent

The simplest and most common method is mechanical. It is carried out with the help of tools that a good owner should always have at hand - metal brushes, abrasive materials, etc.

The third stage - alignment

Stage four - completion of floor preparation

First, it is recommended to treat the floor surface with drying oil or other means similar in purpose and properties (for example, protective latex impregnation). Most importantly, the layer should be thick and thick. Then, before the surface has had time to dry, it is necessary to apply a paint grid, thereby creating a monolith.

Drying floor treatment

Further, the surface is not touched until it is completely dry. After that, a metal reinforcing mesh is attached to the base surface using self-tapping screws. The most important thing is to stretch well and screw the frame to the base. Then the surface is covered with a special mixture, which is kneaded according to the following composition:

Liquid glass - 2 parts
Sand - 2 parts
Water - 1 part

With the help of such a composition, the entire surface is processed without exception. Only after it has completely dried can you start.

Stage five - preparation of the adhesive

Stage six - laying tiles

First, you need to divide the room into four flat sections, the intersection point of which will be the center of the room. In order not to make a mistake and correctly distribute the tiles, it can be laid without glue.

The process of laying tiles on a wooden base

You can start work from the center of the room. You do not need to completely lay the first section, it is better to alternate 1-1.5 squares on each of them. It is recommended to get a rubber mallet that will not break or chip the tiles.

It will not be possible to lay tiles in full size near the walls - they should be cut with a mechanical tile cutter. It is not recommended to use grinders with special diamond wheels, so as not to scorch the edges and not make unnecessary chips.

When laying each subsequent tile, you need to make sure that it lies on the same level with the rest and forms a perfectly flat surface. Another important point is that the protruding glue must be removed immediately before it hardens.

Stage seven - grout

When the tile sets well, it will be possible to proceed to the final stage - grouting. As a rule, this happens 2-3 days after the installation is completed.

Grouting tiles

Everything is very simple here. The seams are pre-wetted with water, and then with rubber spatula rubbed with a special solution of the required color and shade. After 20-30 minutes, excess is removed with a damp cloth.

Wood cladding may raise some doubts, however, there is a certain laying technology in this way. Expert advice will take into account all important points in the process of installation and carry out repairs in the room with high quality.

1. Can I tile on the wooden floor in the bathroom?

Most often, this issue worries those who make repairs in private houses and cottages. In such buildings, wood serves as the basis for cladding. Facing in this case is acceptable, but it is worth assessing the condition of the surface and performing certain work on the eve of installation.

Further actions depend on the preliminary inspection of the base:

If the surface is in good condition, in this case, minor processing is carried out and laying can begin;
In the presence of serious flaws, installation is unacceptable. First you need to repair the base by replacing the necessary parts.

Calculate the amount of material required for flooring the room, while taking into account the specific layout option (herringbone, offset, diagonal, rows, etc.).
When repairing with your own hands, it is advisable to choose the simplest installation method, for example, cladding in rows. With a diagonal layout direction, the tile consumption will increase significantly, since it will be necessary to trim.

2. Preparation of the base for facing

Thinking about how to lay tiles on wood flooring, you should first treat the surface of the base. Check the surface carefully before tiling. The covering can be made of a board, or a laminate.
The floor structure consists of rough level boards, which are fixed on wooden logs.

Old paint can be removed using different methods:
. mechanical way.
The purpose of this method is to apply grinder, or an electric drill with a nozzle in the form of sandpaper. Grit No. 40 is suitable for primary processing, No. 100 or No. 80 is recommended to complete grinding. Main advantage mechanical impact- This is the ability to clean large enough areas.

. Thermal way.
Hairdryer needed for processing. high power, which can warm the air up to + 300 .. + 600 degrees. Keep the device at a distance of 250-500 mm from the floor, after heating, the paint is removed in small parts, using a scraper or a metal spatula during operation.

Experts advise purchasing an industrial hair dryer with a special scraper, so you can combine the process of heating and cleaning wood from paint.

. Method of chemical influence.
Various solvents are suitable for this method. The paint is impregnated with a chemical composition, applying it with a spatula or brush, depending on the consistency of the substance. The saturation time is 10-30 minutes, after which the paint layer softens and can be easily removed.

Organizing the draft floor, logs are installed on top of the ceilings. Then parchment (waterproofing) is laid, the construction is completed with sheets of chipboard, plasterboard or plywood. Keep track of the evenness of the coating, the logs must be mounted according to the level.

Before laying the material, sheets of chipboard, plywood or GKLV must be treated with drying oil warm temperature, or other composition with protective properties. The device can be started immediately after the impregnation has dried.

Preparation of finishing material

Immersion in water will help to force the air out of the tile, 10-20 minutes is enough. If on outside stains appear on the tiles, in which case a slight moistening of the surface from the inside is sufficient.

3. Do I need a screed?

Before laying, you should check the coating and assess how even it is using a level. If there are significant deviations, it is necessary to make a screed before facing.

What alignment methods are there?

Wet screed . Suitable for those cases when it is necessary to increase the strength characteristics of the floor. At the same time, a gap is organized around the perimeter of the room, taking into account possible deformation. This condition allows the base to move without destroying the mounted coating;

Dry screed . This method the most popular, because it allows you to create not only a flat, but also a reliable floor with a high bearing capacity;
Leveling with GKLV sheets is considered the easiest option. . First of all, carefully examine the condition of the wood floor. Those bars that have rotted should be replaced with new elements. Next, drywall is installed, the sheets are fixed with polyurethane glue, the joints are treated with sealant. You should also impregnate the sheets with a primer mixture.

4. Laying tiles

The main steps for laying tiles on a wooden floor:

On the eve of the floor cladding, you need to determine the location of the parts. Center is measured big wall and a line is fixed on the floor, usually it is perpendicular. Similar actions are also carried out for a short wall.
The resulting lines at the point of intersection indicate the center of the room, if the room represents rectangular shape. Organize the most interesting option layouts, avoiding cutting tiles along the walls to the maximum.
The floor around the bathroom is advised to be tiled symmetrically.

The composition of the glue is treated with 1 sq.m of the base in one of the corners measured by the center of the room. In order to conveniently distribute the glue, it is better to use a spatula or spatula.
Given that flat surface(differences in height no more than 3 mm), glue consumption is minimized. In this case, it is sufficient that the layer is less than 5 mm, because adhesive composition serves only to bond the floor and tiles. To level the surface, there is a special adhesive on sale that can eliminate protrusions (up to 30 mm). Also, the consumption of glue depends on the thickness of the tile.
It is not necessary to knead the entire volume of glue at once, because the laying takes a long time. The composition should be gradually diluted, as needed.

You need to create pressure on the tile, then press it to the base. After that, you should continue laying, heading along the marked markings. Cover the entire area of the floor treated with glue.

The layout is directed from the central point to the walls, while certain gaps between the tiles must be observed. After half of the floor surface in the bathroom is filled with tiles, the rest is also tiled. Next, you need to wait for the complete drying of the adhesive composition.
The individual elements must be on the same level. If necessary, you can add a layer of glue.
We supplement the space between the wall and the laid material with undercuts. In order to accurately cut off some details of the finishing material, it is better to use a construction cutter.

Sometimes, when laying flooring, it is necessary to go around an object in the bathroom. In this case, use the exact contour by cutting it with a power saw.

After the glue becomes solid, the tiles are impregnated with a primer.
There are collections floor tiles in which the elements are coated with a primer. This information is specified on the packaging.
A scraper with a rubber tip is able to fill all the gaps between the elements with a solution. Excess solution can be removed with a dampened sponge, on the eve of drying;
If the bathtub is located close to a lined wall, the gap between the wall and the bathtub must be sealed to ensure tightness. A gap of less than 5 mm can be filled with a tiled fugue or moisture-resistant grout.

On a wooden floor will require considerable effort in the preparation phase

How to lay tiles on a wooden floor yourself: the complexity and features of the process

Generally speaking, ceramics are far from the best option to combine with wood. It's connected with different characteristics these two materials:

wood tends to change its dimensions as a result of external factors: when the humidity rises, the tree expands, when it decreases, on the contrary, it can dry out. In many cases, this leads to deformation tiled flooring and the appearance of cracks;
unlike tiles, wood is highly susceptible to different kind destructive processes and is much inferior to the service life of ceramics. Therefore, it is often possible to encounter a situation where, due to the destruction of the wooden substrate, it is necessary to dismantle the tile;

tile coating, together with water-repellent glue, blocks the access to wood of oxygen, which is necessary for the full service of the tree. As a result - a significant reduction in the duration of the service life of the base;
for laying on top, you can use only the most light tile. Otherwise, its weight will be too large for a wooden base and over time the tile will fail.

So, can you tile on a wooden floor? Can. But this is a rather complicated process. If you are still confident in your decision to put ceramic tiles on top of a wooden floor, be prepared that you will need to put in a lot of effort. But the result is worth it, so let's move on to preparing the foundation. Consider step by step how to lay tiles on a wooden floor.

Helpful advice! It is strongly not recommended to lay tiles on top of a wooden floor, from the moment of installation of which at least two years have not passed. This is fraught with the fact that in the process of shrinkage the tile will crack.

The main requirements for holding data construction works, look like this:

ensure oxygen access to the lower layers of the coating (wood);
distribute evenly permissible loads over the entire surface;
ensure the stability of the base.

In order for all these points to be observed, it is necessary to plan the order of work and follow the plan. It would also be useful to look various videos how to lay tiles on a wooden floor.

Assessment of the state of the coating: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

The first stage involves a thorough inspection and assessment of the condition of the wooden base. To do this, it is best to remove the top boards and carefully examine all structural elements: beams, logs, each board on both sides, insulation, etc.

If there are any signs of damage, it is imperative to replace or repair the base section. What you should pay special attention to:

the presence of decay. There are a lot of types of rot, so you need to carefully examine the surface. Regardless of the type of fungus that generates this process, the wood softens, changing its color or structure. Checking for the presence of rotting elements is carried out as follows: you need to stick an awl into any fragment that causes you suspicion. Easy entry is a reliable indicator of destructive processes in wood. All affected elements must be eliminated, and adjacent parts treated with special antiseptic agents for wood;

woodworm larvae. These insects destroy wood, gnawing through many passages in it. To solve the problem, the same approach is used as in the first case - replacing the damaged area and careful treatment with a special compound.

Most of the destructive processes for wood develop as a result of high humidity. Therefore, installing tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom requires special attention. In dry rooms, the development of fungi can occur as a result of a violation of the integrity of the heat-insulating layer. Given these factors, it is worth carefully checking the waterproofing materials for damage. You may need to add an extra layer.

Helpful advice! Fungal spores are found in almost any wood. The only way to prevent them from ruining the floor is to carry out high-quality antiseptic treatment and create the most unsuitable living conditions for them.

If none of the above deficiencies were found on your floor, or you have already eliminated all existing defects, then you can lay tiles on a wooden floor.

How to lay tiles on plywood: preparatory stages of work

Before you start preparing for laying ceramic tiles on a wooden floor, you need to make sure that the distance between the lags does not exceed 50 cm. Otherwise, additional supports must be installed, otherwise the structure may not support the weight of the coating and fail. As a useful source of information, you can use the videos presented on the network: how to lay tiles on a wooden floor is discussed in them in sufficient detail.

Helpful advice! Do not forget to treat all new wooden elements with antiseptic agents.

Next, you need to check how smooth the lags are, for which the building level is used. As a rule, in the process of shrinkage, irregularities appear due to uneven subsidence. wooden parts. All these defects must be eliminated by scraping off excess elements with a planer, or vice versa - additional lining of small pieces of bricks or any other material. If it is not possible to push the missing element under the bottom, you can fill an additional board from above, trimming it to the required height.

After leveling, it is necessary to treat the coating against fungus and bacteria. To do this, use the tool with the longest possible break between re-treatments and follow all the recommendations specified in the instructions.

The most common surface treatment before laying ceramic tiles on a wooden floor is hot drying oil. For quality protection it must be reapplied several times (up to five). The tool is a completely natural, environmentally friendly impregnation. Each next layer of drying oil is applied after the previous one has completely dried. You can verify the drying by touching the surface - it should not be sticky.

The main thing in the process of processing with drying oil is not to let it cool down, because its antiseptic effect directly depends on the temperature: the hotter it is, the better it destroys larvae, spores and bacteria. In addition, in the hot state, drying oil is more liquid and can penetrate deeper into micro-crevices.

Helpful advice! Heating drying oil is an unsafe process. Its vapors can ignite, therefore it is strictly forbidden to put the container on the stove. When heating the septic tank, hold it over the stove and, just in case, prepare a piece of tarp with which you can put out the source of ignition.

How to lay tiles on a wooden floor: the necessary cleaning of the boards

If all the previously removed boards are in a satisfactory condition, they can be reinstalled, having previously cleaned them of the old varnish or paint with which they were covered. This can be done while you are waiting for the antiseptic solution to dry completely.

To remove varnish and paint residues from the surface of the boards, you can use the following methods:

building hair dryer, set to a temperature of 200-250 ° C. A stream of hot air must be directed to the paint, as a result of which it will begin to swell with bubbles. To remove it, use a spatula, knife or scraper. In some sources, you can find recommendations on the use of blowtorches, but this is not very good idea. There is a high probability of wood overheating, and, as a result, deterioration of its technical characteristics;
chemical washes are a gel-like mass and are sold in almost all hardware stores. Such a wash must be evenly applied to the surface and after a while removed with a spatula along with softened paint. The only drawback of this method is the considerable cost of the material when it comes to processing. large area gender;
mechanical cleaning involves peeling the paint from the surface with a spatula or sandpaper without use auxiliary materials. It's cheap but takes a very long time. A sanding machine will help speed up the process at times.

If, after removing the coating, you find any defects that were not noticed before, it is better to replace the damaged areas. In addition, all boards are subject to mandatory antibacterial treatment. After the impregnation is completely absorbed, you can start laying the subfloor under the tile.

How to lay ceramic tiles on a wood floor: Subfloor decking

The process of laying a subfloor begins with the laying of an insulating layer. The material you choose must be non-hygroscopic. This will keep the under tile dry and prevent bacteria and fungus from growing there. Also, the material should have a minimum weight in order to create as little load as possible.

Extruded propylene foam can be considered a suitable option. Due to its synthetic origin, it prevents the development of any living organisms on its surface. True, at this material there are also disadvantages: it does not pass air well and has a considerable cost.

Alternatively, expanded clay can be used. It is natural and highly breathable. However, it has more weight and a more hygroscopic structure.

Whatever insulation you prefer, it must be laid out on top of the layer

Mineral wool was used as a heater for the floor

If you want underfloor heating under tiles on a wooden floor, then in this case it is better to seek help from professionals. Installation of the system is quite complex and requires a certain level of skill.

When all the boards are laid and fixed, they can be puttied and then leveled using grinder. All cracks must be sealed with mounting foam. It is elastic enough to allow the wood to expand, yet able to bear the weight of the tile and adhesive.