If you have an old dining table that you hold dear as a keepsake, or you just want to save money on buying new furniture, then you have an interesting job as a restorer or decorator.
Keep in mind that restoring a kitchen table with your own hands is not the easiest and, in some cases, not justified, because not every table can be repaired, and it is better to entrust antiques to professionals. But more often than not, the right "upgrade" can bring your old friend back to life and transform him beyond recognition.
How can the table be updated?
To update your kitchen table with your own hands, you can use one of the following proven technologies:
- Traditional painting - this is the method we will consider in detail in a step-by-step master class.
- An interesting way of decorating and painting furniture is coloring through tulle - a tabletop is painted through it, and a lace pattern is formed according to the principle of a stencil.
- Ceramic tiles will allow you to decorate a dilapidated, badly damaged countertop and make it more practical - you can put hot on such a surface and wash it in any way.
- You can update the old table using decoupage technique. We will also talk about it in more detail.
- An easy way to modify the table with your own hands quickly and on a budget is to paste over it with a self-adhesive film.
- Burning will renew an undamaged wood surface.
Master class - 6 steps on the way to a new life
In this simple DIY dining table restoration tutorial, we'll be updating, repairing and repainting this old veneered table with a moderate amount of imperfections.
So, to update the kitchen table you will need:
- a grinder or sandpaper of coarse, medium and fine grit, as well as glasses, a respirator and gloves;
- alkyd enamel paint of the desired color (or other desired coating, such as stain), as well as a flat, non-shedding paint or art brush;
- primer for wood and a small roller / brush for priming;
- wax paste or varnish.
Step 1. Inspect and repair parts
We carefully examine all the fasteners in the structure and the defects of the countertop - how much the veneer has delaminated or the tree has been damaged.
If the table is a little loose, then you just need to tighten all the screws. If it requires a more serious restoration, then you need to completely disassemble the table, re-fasten all the parts, or clean and sand all the grooves and joints so that the new glue grabs better, fix the glued parts with clamps or self-tapping screws, and then remove them after 15 hours, when the glue is completely dry.
- Sometimes the underframe needs to be replaced, not only because its parts are very dilapidated, but also because the legs can completely modify your old table. For example, if earlier the legs were simple, now you can replace them with beautiful carved balusters.
- When disassembling furniture, do not forget to mark the installation location of each of the parts, so you will not get confused and quickly complete the task.
Step 2. Remove the old coating
Now put on goggles and prepare 2 types of sandpaper: coarse-grained for primary processing and fine-grained for smoothing. Get ready for a long and laborious job - removing old paint or varnish is not an easy task.
Step 3. We close up cracks and chips
After grinding, we carefully clean the table from dust, inspect the countertop and look for defects. Keep in mind that even the smallest damage will be visible after painting. All chips and cracks must be locally repaired with wood putty or polyester putty, and then sanded the entire surface again when the “patches” dry out.
Note - covering the table with stain:
- if the countertop is not severely damaged, then you can not hide the natural beauty of the wood and cover it with stain, and then with varnish, shellac or wax. The photo below shows an example of a restored table with a stained oak top.
Step 4. Prime and sand again
We continue to work. Now we need not only to clean the table, but also to degrease it. And after the table dries, proceed to the primer. This stage is mandatory, because without it the paintwork will lie unevenly and quickly be damaged. You can use an alkyd or shellac wood primer. In this master class, the universal alkyd primer Zinsser Cover Stain (pictured below) was used, which dries in just 1 hour, protects the wood well and prepares it for painting. It costs about 500-600 rubles, but is not sold everywhere. The table can be primed in 1-2 coats with a small sponge roller, allowing each coat to dry completely.
When the primer is dry (1 day), sand the countertop again with sandpaper or a medium-grit sanding sponge to smooth the primed surface and prepare it for painting. And don't forget to put your respirator back on!
Step 5. Now let's start painting.
It is very important to choose the right paint and its color. Avoid cheap paints, because this is a dining table, which means that the countertop should be well tolerated by frequent washing, rubbing, bumps, etc. In this case, a premium water-based alkyd enamel paint with a satin finish is used, but you can choose a more environmentally friendly acrylic-based enamel. Also, choose a quality brush with passion so that it does not shed in the process. Not a paintbrush, but a large flat art brush is perfect.
The paint must be applied in 2 thin layers, while the finish layer is best left to dry for 3-4 days.
- If you have chosen a dark color of paint, then it is better to apply it in 3 thin layers;
- To create scuffs in the shabby chic style, the paint can be sanded in some places, for example, on the ends of the table;
- Also, to create the effect of "antique", the table can be patinated.
Step 6. Apply a protective coating
As we said, you can protect the surface of the table with a varnish, for example, a matte water-based polyurethane (in the photo on the left is an excellent varnish from Varathane). It should be applied evenly in 2-3 thin layers, lightly sanding each layer before applying the next layer of varnish. Of course, all layers must be completely dry before sanding (4 hours).
The second option is wax protection, which will make the countertop matte and can be rubbed to a shine. To do this, the wax should be gently rubbed with a cotton cloth into the wood, then allow the first layer to dry for at least 1 hour. After that, polish the surface in a circular motion, and repeat the procedure 2 more times within one day. Well, now be patient and leave the table for 1 week so that the surface acquires the necessary operational properties.
Well, that's all - the restoration is completed, and the old table has found a new life in trendy white.
And here is another interesting video from the program "Cheap and cheerful" on the topic of restoring countertops at home from improvised means.
Updating the countertop with decoupage
If you do not want to stop there or your table does not have serious damage, but just needs a little update, then you can decorate the table with drawings: paint it manually with acrylic paints, use stencils and stamps, or update the table with decoupage. Perhaps, it is this decor technique that is popular today that we will consider in more detail, because decoupage will not only allow you to quickly and budgetly transform the table or, for example, style it like Shabby chic (as in the photo below), but also hide some defects of the dilapidated surface.
There is a category of citizens who do not tolerate old things in the house and immediately get rid of them as soon as they find a replacement. This primarily applies to furniture that requires space. But there are not so many of them, as a rule, a fully serviceable table or chairs are taken to the dacha - maybe they will come in handy.
This “maybe” is fully justified today, because old pieces of furniture have come into fashion. Not even antiques, for which there has always been a demand, but simply things that have a history. It is better if the wear is noticeable immediately, but if it is not there, then the furniture is artificially aged - there are special techniques.
A Soviet-made desk, a single-pedestal writing desk, at one time could be seen in every family where there were schoolchildren - it was a standard home workplace. Yes, and in production they were in the plant management, shop engineers, planners and accountants.
In short, in many dachas, compact old men are dozing, still strong, but already out of circulation. Meanwhile, with a minimum of effort, they can be given a fashionable look of furniture in the Provence style.
We will need:
- the hero of the plot is a single-pedestal desk;
- grinder and grinding disc;
- file;
- polyurethane moldings;
- angular embossed bar, which is used for construction work;
- adaptation of the miter box for carpentry;
- primer brown;
- facade paint, matte white;
- handles are furniture ceramic.
How to convert an ugly duckling table into a Provencal style
1. Let's free the surface of the table from the layer of old varnish. It holds tight, only a grinder can handle it if you install a grinding disc.
2. After such a surgical operation, the chipboard from which the table is made is covered with irregularities. This is where the primer comes in handy, and you will have to cover the surface with it twice.
3. To make the table more interesting, you can apply different methods. For example, completely replace the countertop with a wooden one, in a modern style. But it's not that easy, and it might not work. It is to complicate the shape of the table that a relief corner beam is in store, we simply attach it to the existing tabletop. And it will immediately become noticeable that the table has acquired a less primitive look.
4. Now we need to deal with the boxes, because from prolonged inactivity they have lost their former ease of movement. This is where moldings come into play.
5. Now the old table looks quite decent, it remains to paint it. To make it fit better into the chosen style, we use not traditional enamel, but facade paint. And let's take a brush with a hard bristle so that traces of strokes are visible, because negligence is in fashion today. In order to give the table an aged look, we will paint a thin layer only once. Then in some places bald spots are formed, through which the soil will shine through.
What color to paint the table
If you work with enamel, then before applying it, you need to rub the surface with a candle. The paint will lie unevenly, which was required to achieve. And in order to deprive it of its ceremonial brilliance, you will have to walk along the painted surface with sandpaper. But to get closer to the effect of Provencal furniture, it’s better to work with facade paint.
An old table, loose and shriveled, and besides, creaky, like an unlubricated cart, and hands itch to send to a fire or to a landfill. But if you work on it a little, you can get a very good furniture accessory, such as a coffee table (if you shorten the legs to a certain length), or a TV table. In my barn, on a shelf, forgotten by everyone, was an ordinary kitchen table. Disassembled. Four bolted legs, a wooden base fastened with metal brackets, and three fragments of a table top.
After examining this rarity, I at first decided to send it to the garbage truck; from a long laying, the fragments of the tabletop made of chipboard swelled up under the influence of moisture, and after drying, of course, they did not return to their original shape. Moreover, besides, they became brittle and sawdust fell from them, from which they, in fact, were made ...
The wooden base, on the contrary, shrank to the point that it was shaking, as if alive, as soon as it was picked up! After a little thought, I decided, nevertheless, to try to "reanimate" it. One way or another, I won't lose much if I fail.
It will take
- Hacksaw.
- Gas wrench or pliers.
- Glue universal (you can "Moment").
- Glue composite (cold welding).
- Glue cyan acrylate (super glue).
- Marker.
- Drill and drills for 4 and 9.
- Long ruler (or level with ruler markings).
- Four thick hex furniture screws.
- A small sheet of chipboard for a new countertop.
- Decorative self-adhesive film for countertop cladding (with a pattern of your choice).
Restoring an old table
First you need to disassemble the wooden base. Unscrew all existing screws, remove metal brackets.
Our table will be half the size of the previous one, which means that those crossbars that used to be the width of the table will now become its long.
You can choose the width of the new table yourself, to your taste. You can even make it square! To do this, take the remaining long crossbars, and shorten them to the width of the future table you need.
Just make sure that the width of the future table is at least half of its length, otherwise it will be unstable! Now, at the sawn ends of the crossbars, we will make grooves for metal staples with a hacksaw, as we did before.
Next, let's deal with the holes left from the screws after disassembling the table. Most of these holes will again be in their original places, and in order to keep the screws holding the metal brackets well in them, we will use matches and universal glue. We dip the match into the glue (or drip glue into the hole), push it all the way into the hole, and break it off.
It turned out to be a kind of stub-chepik. Now the screw will hold well in this hole, and the table will not stagger. Well, so that the “new” table does not creak, drop a drop of machine oil onto the points of contact of all individual fragments of the table, both wooden and metal. Now let's do the legs. If a threaded connection is unscrewed at these legs, it is advisable to unscrew it from the leg. Lubricate the threads with composite or universal adhesive, and screw back.
All the way. If the connection dangles, but does not unscrew (it also happens when the threaded pin has a “T”-shaped end inside the legs), then you have to use cyan acrylate (super glue). We drip it into the gap between the joint and the wood until it stops going inside. Leave the glued legs to dry. For a couple of hours, so that the composite glue has time to grab. (By the way, the legs can also be shortened to the height you need, planed with a planer, narrowed down if they are square, and covered with stain.) During this time, you can assemble a wooden base; we fasten the prepared crossbars with staples and screws.
After the time allotted for the composite glue to harden, we fasten the legs to the base. As before to the old table.
Now we take the prepared chipboard sheet (I took the end wall from the old cabinet for this purpose), cut out the countertop of the required area and sand the sawn edges with sandpaper or a wood file.
We put the countertop on a flat surface, with the front (most smooth!) Side down. We put the base on top of the countertop, legs up and mark the corners of the legs with a marker.
We remove the base and drill 4 mm holes in each corner, so that the holes are in the centers of the legs. Now we put the base on the legs, put the countertop on it, and look from below so that the marks made earlier with the marker converge. Now, according to the holes in the countertop, we drill holes further - inside the legs, to the length of the screw.
Well, with a drill of eight millimeters, we will make small recesses over the holes, melt, for the heads of the screws and screw the screws.
We cover the head of the screw with composite glue so that the countertop has a flat surface. You can pre-lubricate the surface of the recess, and the screw head in it, with machine oil, then it will be possible to easily pick out these resulting plugs in the future in order to dismantle the table, if necessary.
We are waiting for the composite glue to dry and, at the end, glue the countertop with an adhesive decorative film.
Paste with self-adhesive wallpaper should be as careful as possible; there will be no second chance to re-paste. To do this, I had to dismantle the table (fortunately, this is not long - unscrew four screws and unscrew four nuts!). I humidified the air in the room with a sprayer, so that the dust particles do not fall on the pasted surface, and do not form bumps and bubbles after the work done. I wiped the surface with alcohol, and carefully, starting from one of the corners, smoothing the film in different directions from the corner with a dry cloth, glued the film on each part in turn. If the bubbles still could not be avoided, pierce them with a thin needle in several places, put an ordinary kitchen napkin on the bubble and put a flat-bottomed mug filled with boiling water in this place. For one or two minutes. After this procedure, the bubble will disappear. And one moment; having pasted over the countertop, I changed my mind about hiding the screw heads - I really liked how shiny metal hats look, recessed into the texture of the “stone”.
But this is an individual matter. If someone does not like it, you can hide the hats. Just cover them with glue and stick patches cut out from the same film on top ... This is how the table was (in size!):
And so it became - small and compact:
It will fit well into the interior of some small room in a country house. I think it turned out well. Even very good!
Loose legs, damage to the table top in the kitchen or in the living room are not uncommon. Over time, the fasteners weaken, and due to accidental mechanical damage, the surface may get cracked, chipped or worn. You can restore the attractiveness and integrity of the furniture, you can carry out a high-quality restoration of the table with your own hands. Below in the detailed master classes, we told you how to restore a plastic, wooden (varnished or painted) and glass table. Having studied the exact instructions, you can easily carry out the work and, moreover, it is interesting to decorate the old table, give it a new look. No special tools are needed for restoration: almost all of them can be found in the arsenal of a modern owner. But for restoration and decoration, you will need to separately select special materials and compositions.
Restoration methods
To determine the best option for restoring the table, familiarization with modern methods of its repair, as well as the view obtained after processing, will help. You can cover items like this:
- Using conventional brushes (to create a perfectly even surface or create a smooth transition from one color to another by mixing paints directly on the countertop with a small brush).
- Through nets, tulle, stencils (to obtain patterns and stylized spots on the surface).
- Craquelure compositions (allows for antique styling, to give the surface the appearance of cracked paint).
It is also possible to glue tables with different types of films, to carry out pasting with paper materials. All of the options discussed are more applicable to wooden furniture, but some of them are also suitable for the restoration of plastic products.
The main stages of the restoration of a wooden table
Restoration of a table made of natural wood requires a careful approach to each stage of restoration. This is the only way to do the work with your own hands correctly and return the furniture to its original appearance (or even make it better). Direct restoration is carried out according to the following scheme:
- Selection of the necessary materials and tools (working with everything ready will be much easier than buying the necessary materials during the restoration process).
- Carrying out the primary repair of the entire structure (this stage concerns the restoration of the integrity of the product: for example, for a dining table, the work will consist in repairing the frame, for writing - in repairing the frame, shelves, drawers).
- Removal of old coating, restoration of wood.
- Primary processing and decoration of furniture.
- The final stage for the auxiliary protection of the created decor.
All of these steps will be appropriate for minor damage to old tables. If large cracks appeared on the surface of the countertop or the edges of the array began to break off and crumble, then the work will take much longer and may not bring the desired result.
Necessary materials and tools
To safely and properly restore an old table, you will need to prepare the following tools and materials:
- Protective equipment (glasses, mask, gloves).
- Sandpaper (fine + coarse) or grinder (with fine and coarse abrasive wheels).
- Painting tools (brushes, rollers).
- Protective compositions for wood (high-quality impregnation to protect wood from moisture, decay, pests, blueing).
- Coloring and auxiliary compositions (selected paint for repainting wooden furniture or stain, primer, varnish).
- Fasteners and tools for repairing an old table (screwdriver, screwdriver, self-tapping screws and screws, liquid nails, furniture glue).
Finishing can be carried out not only with varnish, but also with wax. The advantage of this composition is the ease of recovery: a scratched area just needs to be re-treated with wax.
preliminary repair
Carrying out the primary repair involves restoring the strength of the entire structure of the table. Therefore, you need to start recovery by identifying problem areas. For example, at a table with loose legs, they should be removed, inspect the attachment points (chipped threads are considered a common cause of this phenomenon). If necessary, damaged areas should be glued with furniture glue. If the problem lies in the drying of the glue with which the individual parts were glued together (for example, in the area of the dowels connecting the legs and the shelf of the coffee table), then the old glue should be removed and the parts should be planted on liquid nails. In the case of transforming dining tables, it may be necessary to restore the table height adjustment mechanism. Usually the problem with the poor running of the mechanism is solved by simply cleaning the parts and lubricating them.
Removing the old coating
When the primary repair has been carried out, and the furniture has been restored to its former strength and reliability, you can begin to remove the old coating. Work can be done in several ways:
- Mechanical.
In this case, the cleaning of old varnish and paint is carried out using abrasive sandpaper or a grinder. Initially, a rough cleaning is carried out: peeling pieces of varnish and paint are cleaned with coarse or medium-grained sandpaper. Then, with a finely abrasive sandpaper, a more accurate removal of residues is carried out. The main thing is not to overdo it in work and not to remove the top layer of wood.
- Chemical.
There are special formulations designed to remove old varnish and paint from wood. They are applied with a brush on the furniture. Then, after 20-30 minutes, they are removed with a brush (already together with the corroded old coating).
Remove dust from the cleaned wood and treat it with antiseptic impregnation. Drying of the impregnation is usually about 24 hours. Such work should be carried out both for furniture made of natural wood, and for products made of chipboard, MDF.
Repair of cracks and chips
In order to qualitatively repair the table, and not just refresh it, you should take care of competently getting rid of chips and cracks. To work, you will need a brush, wood putty (preferably as close as possible in color to the color of the wood), fine abrasive sandpaper. The following master class will help to carry out the work correctly:
- From damaged areas (chips and cracks), carefully sweep the dust. If pre-treatment with an antiseptic was carried out, then this work can be omitted.
- Using a soft rubber spatula, "close" chips and cracks with wood filler. It is necessary to invest the composition as deeply as possible in order to completely close the formed recesses.
- Carefully remove excess putty: level the surface of the areas to be restored.
- After the putty has dried, go over the treated areas with fine abrasive sandpaper.
Preparation for finishing: priming
Before decorating the restored table and decorating it, the surface should be primed. This requirement applies to both the countertop and the frame itself. To work, you will need a shellac, acrylic or alkyd primer: they are suitable for covering wood. Direct priming is carried out as follows:
- A small amount of primer is applied to the surface of the table (processing is initially carried out in sections), distributed with a rubber spatula. It is advisable to distribute the composition as carefully as possible in order to obtain an even layer. After covering individual sections, you need to align all the transitions so that there are no drops.
- After the first coat has dried (usually takes 1 to 6 hours), apply the second coat and wait for it to dry.
- On top of the dried primer, carry out grinding for high-quality leveling of the surface and the elimination of any differences.
Ways to give the final decor
Unusually, you can paint or decorate a table without the involvement of specialists - with your own hands. This work can be done in different ways:
- normal coloring;
It is carried out using paint on wood and a brush. The composition is evenly distributed over all surfaces.
- staining with curly rollers;
For coloring, you will need paint on wood and a roller, on the surface of which there are three-dimensional patterns. The application of paint is carried out in one motion, then the roller is rearranged to its width.
- decoupage;
Decoupage glue is applied to the surface of the table, prepared paper elements (solid sheets or cut out elements) are glued.
- dyeing through tulle;
On top of the prepared surface (simply primed or painted white), ironed tulle is laid out. Spray paint is sprayed on top. The tulle is carefully removed so that the pattern is not smeared.
- staining through a stencil;
A stencil is made from cardboard (or a ready-made one is bought). The stencil is applied to the table, and the tabletop is painted through the cut out template. A popular option for highlighting the perimeter, corners or center of a table.
- multicolor staining.
Several paints with similar colors are used (for example, from light to dark). Paints of different colors are applied in wide stripes. Then, with a brush, smooth transitions are carefully made between them.
Final coating with varnish or wax
To fix the result of decoration and additionally protect the table from damage, moisture will help its finishing - with varnish or wax. Modern varnishes have fairly good wear resistance, and can be used for coffee tables (which are rarely used) and kitchen tables (which are used daily). Wax provides the most reliable protection, so it is mostly used for processing tables in the kitchen. Lacquer is applied with a brush in 1 layer. The drying time of the composition depends on its characteristics and characteristics (it may take 18-36 hours for complete drying). Wax paste is applied with a swab or a dense brush. Liquid wax is distributed with a brush over the entire surface of the table (tabletop, legs). Hard wax is melted before application, then spread with a brush (“rubbed” into the surface). But keep in mind that hard wax may include chemical additives.
What material to glue
If painting the table after restoration is not suitable, you should pay attention to modern methods of gluing furniture. These include:
- Film wrapping.
The film is peeled off from the paper base and applied (glued to the table). It is necessary to gradually separate the film and additionally iron its glued parts (for example, with a rubber spatula) to remove bubbles. Along the edge of the tabletop, you can additionally blow the film with a hairdryer for better fixation and also iron it.
- Decor countertops with tape.
Decorative adhesive tape of different colors can be glued to the tabletop in strips, forming squares. From above, you can additionally glue a transparent film (according to the example indicated above) to reliably protect the adhesive tape from damage and peeling.
- Pasting the tabletop with stickers.
Ordinary stickers in the form of patterns, animals, flowers or products are great for table decor. They should be glued to a previously degreased surface of the countertop. Additional protection is not needed for the stickers: they stick quite well and can be easily removed if necessary.
Methods for restoring a glass table
The glass table, even with very careful operation, can be covered with scratches, “scuffs”. Especially if it is included in the lunch group and is used daily. On your own, with minor damage to the countertop, you can restore the glass surface using the following compositions:
- colorless (transparent) varnish: due to penetration into cracks, it will somewhat level the surface, but is a temporary solution and requires very careful application;
- GOI paste: allows you to get rid of minor scratches, before use it is heated according to the instructions on the package and then rubbed into the damaged areas with gentle circular movements;
- soda: diluted to a mushy state and, in a similar way, like GOI paste, rubbed into damaged parts;
- toothpaste (not gel): with its help, the tabletop is polished, due to which the shine returns to the glass, and micro-scratches and scuffs disappear.
In the presence of large chips and cracks, it is recommended to completely replace the countertop yourself or hand it over to specialists for repair. A detached frame can be easily restored by carefully removing dried glue and applying a new adhesive composition. Loose screws in case of screwing the countertop to the frame are recommended to be replaced with new ones.
How to update a plastic table
Most plastic furniture loses its original appeal over time, even if used in home (not balcony or country) conditions. For example, due to minor mechanical damage, it can become covered with scratches, scuffs. But constant exposure to sunlight can cause the plastic to burn out, yellowing it. You can update these tables in two ways:
- Repainting.
The best option for products with flat countertops. Initially, the plastic surface is treated with fine abrasive sandpaper, then degreased, coated with a primer. The final step will be the coating of the product with spray paint.
- Decoupage.
The best solution for tables with curly ledges or recesses. Initially, with the help of finely abrasive sandpaper, the entire countertop, frame is cleaned. Then degreased. Napkins (or paper, thin newspaper) selected for decoration are glued onto decoupage glue. After the glue dries, the product is covered with a transparent varnish.
Ideas to update your coffee table
To update the look of a coffee table, it is not at all necessary to completely repaint it. You can simply highlight its individual parts or emphasize its shape. The most interesting options include:
- Pasting with a custom sticker.
Under the size of a rectangular table, you can order a sticker with the image of a cassette (for a round one you can have a vinyl record, for an oval one - a cut pear or melon). Stick the image on the cleaned surface.
- Staining with stain.
The variety of wood stains allows you to completely change the color of wood, make it brighter or darker, or completely lighten it. Staining under the patina of protruding elements, carved decorations will help to complement this decor. For work, it is recommended to take gold or bronze paint.
- Decor craquelure.
Remodeling the antique table will completely change its appearance. Initially, it should be painted in a color that will help highlight the veins. It is not necessary to decorate it with "cracks". You just need to apply craquelure varnish, which will ensure the appearance of these cracks.
How to update a countertop
A separate update of the tabletop and decorating it with decor allows you to give even a very old table an original design look. The most interesting options for this design include:
- Laying out the mosaic.
A mosaic is laid out on a cleaned surface, on a special solution, thereby forming patterns or an abstract pattern. Then the seams between the mosaic are overwritten.
- Decor with ceramic tiles.
For large tables, you can use not only a small mosaic, but also large tiles. The work is carried out in a similar way, but the finished decor will have a certain pattern (or be monophonic).
- "Picture" under glass (for rectangular and square countertops).
A frame made of timber is stuffed or glued around the perimeter of the tabletop. Sand is poured inside the frame and shells are laid out (another option is to lay out photos, letters). Glass is placed on top of the frame.
Conclusion
Updating furniture with your own hands is not an easy, but still doable task. Therefore, before throwing away the old table, think about the possibility of its restoration. Even a worn lacquered table-book can be repaired and decorated in an unusual way. If desired, the prepared furniture can be painted with different colors, varnished (for gloss) or painted with matting compounds. Also, the updated table can be pasted over with films and stickers. There are a lot of ways to decorate products, you just need to choose the right one, based on the features of its implementation, the degree of complexity. You can update not only wooden, but also plastic, glass tables. Above, we have described ways to restore such products using simple materials and tools. By following step-by-step instructions and helpful hints, you can easily “bring to life” even a very old, and at first glance, unrepairable table.
Many people have old furniture at home or somewhere in the country. And most often these are not expensive antiques from tsarist times, but the most ordinary cabinets, chests of drawers, tables and chairs. At first glance, it may seem that most of these things are long overdue, but take a closer look - often these are good-quality products made of solid wood or maybe even forged metal, which will last for more than one year if they are beautifully restored. In this article, we will talk about ways to decorate tables - kitchen, dining, coffee, work - different in size and shape.
However, many of the options presented are equally suitable for other interior items. Perhaps these examples will inspire you to turn nondescript shabby furniture into a real work of art, because it's so nice to contemplate the beauty made by your own hands!
12 Ways to Give New Life to an Old Table
1. Painting
The best way to update a dilapidated table is to paint it, but first you need to prepare the surface. A paint remover will help clean the product from the previous finish.
If there is rust on metal legs or accessories, it should be abundantly soaked with vinegar, Coca-Cola or a special agent, and wiped with a hard scraper after 15-20 minutes.
The wood is sanded with sandpaper, dust is removed, then impregnated with an antiseptic and a primer is applied. All chips, cracks and irregularities are rubbed with acrylic putty on wood.
For painting, you can use alkyd enamel, acrylic or epoxy paints, varnishes, aerosol compositions for metal. You will also need painting tools - a brush, roller, sponge, sprayer.
To give the table a more spectacular look - it can be painted not entirely, but only individual parts. To do this, you will need masking tape or stencils.
2. Art painting
If a monochromatic finish seems too boring, try decorating an old table with patterns. Drawings can be applied with a brush and acrylic paints - manually, through a stencil or according to outlines made using tracing paper.
A table with artistic painting will perfectly complement the interior in ethnic or rustic style, and children will like the images of animals, fairy-tale and cartoon characters.
3. Decoupage
For such a decor, you will need a brush, patterned paper napkins, PVA glue and clear furniture varnish.
Pictures are carefully torn off or cut out with scissors, the lower layers of paper are removed, then the resulting thin applications are placed in the designated place, and smeared with glue on top, trying to avoid wrinkles and tears.
If some element cannot be attached the first time, it must be immediately wiped off with a sponge moistened with warm water and try again with a similar fragment.
The dried decoupage is covered with a transparent varnish for furniture in several layers, otherwise the paper decor will quickly be erased.
4. Craquelure
Craquelure is a crackling lacquer that is deliberately given a look that mimics the texture of antique paintings. It can be one-step (the composition is applied in one layer and cracks as it dries) and two-step (two mixtures are used - one based on epoxy resins, the second - water-based, they interact and a characteristic texture is obtained). The color of the veins is determined by the bottom layer of acrylic paint, as well as the shade of the grout. Most often, powdered golden pigment or pastel is used for this purpose.
Two-step craquelure is usually complemented with decoupage or hand painting to achieve the effect of an aged painting. One-step is more suitable for products without patterns.
5. Tiles
It happens that after the repair there is a small supply of ceramic tiles. It can be used to decorate an old table - just tile a wooden base with tiles. The laying technology in this case practically does not differ from the decoration of walls or floors.
The ceramic surface is ideal for a table in the kitchen, terrace, porch, gazebo or even outdoors.
To give the table an attractive look, in addition to plain tiles, you should use patterned borders, decorative panels (perhaps even with some plots) or a stylish patchwork.
6. Mosaic
Pictures from small fragments adorn many galleries, temples and palaces. They will look just as elegant in the house, for example, on the surface of coffee tables.
Mosaic elements can be ceramic (even broken tiles will do), glass or acrylic.
From improvised materials, small round cuts of wood, chopped CDs, colored pebbles are suitable. You just need to come up with an interesting pattern and attach the pieces to the table with glue or liquid nails.
7. Self-adhesive film
The simplest and most beautiful option for decorating an old table that does not require fuss with paints is sticking a film.
This affordable material can imitate any surface - from rare woods to marble, it can have any patterns, patterns and textures.
Self-adhesive film is sold in rolls, and it is easy and pleasant to use it.
8. Decorative tape
In the shops of stationery and art supplies, a wide selection of decorative self-adhesive tapes has recently been presented. It will take you no more than 30-40 minutes to decorate an old table with multi-colored tape, and a new bright thing will appear in the interior.
If you want to change the finish, the adhesive strips can be removed just as quickly, and if there is glue left somewhere, acetone will dissolve it without any problems.
9. Epoxy resin
Epoxy resin is a liquid substance that quickly cures in the open air, turning into a hard transparent plastic.
Cracks in wood filled in this way look very unusual, and if luminescent powder is added to the liquid phase, they will glow brightly in the dark.
Also, dried flowers, leaves, shells, coins can be placed in epoxy resin, and due to the transparency of the substance, the effect of ice or amber will be obtained.
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