How to lay sewer pipes in a private house: step by step instructions. Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house: scheme and rules for the location of the main structural elements Full sewerage in a private house what to do

Ensuring comfort and quality of life in a country house is an important point for any owner of such a building. One of the factors that make it possible to ensure a comfortable life is the convenience of the outflow of used water and waste products. Properly calculated at the design stage and subsequently properly built sewage in a private house will be the key to long-term operation, in which there will be no problems. You can create a similar design with your own hands, if you approach the issue with maximum responsibility.

Primary requirements

In order to avoid any problems in the process of creating a sewerage system in your own home, it is best to follow as much as possible in this process all the requirements and standards that are described in the regulatory documentation - SNiP. In this case, everything will definitely function flawlessly for a long period of time.

In any building where a water pipe is laid and there is a water intake, a system must be made that will remove the runoff masses. Mechanisms for drainage should also be created at the sites. In general, such a network can not only provide a comfortable life, but also do not harm the environment, and will also significantly increase the time of using the building.

Typically, sewerage consists of the following systems:

storm, which diverts water;
outdoor;
internal.

They must be laid in such a way that various building sanitation requirements for sewerage in your own home are met.

Among these requirements are:

ensuring normal cleansing;
no risk of flooding the building;
ensuring the required volume of wastewater;
tight accumulation and transportation of sewage.

If we talk about the requirements for internal systems of this type, then they should consist of the following elements:

a riser to which all pipes are attached;
dilution of pipes, which pumps wastewater in the direction of the riser;
plumbing fixtures for drainage.

According to the norms, in the mechanism, part of which is located in the building, there must be enough space for the free transportation of liquid from the places where the drain is carried out to the pipes that lead out of the building. When laying sewers inside the building, pipes made of cast iron or some kind of polymers are used. At the outlet, the size of such a pipe should be 11 centimeters. Naturally, in this mechanism there must also be ventilation. Usually it is carried out through the riser. Above each element, an exhaust space is made that overlooks the roof.

If we talk about the project of external systems, then its creation is carried out taking into account the requirements prescribed in SNiP number 2.04.03-85.

The following points should be taken into account in this document:

wells for maintenance and cleaning should be installed in the mechanism;
to clean up effluents, an installation using biomethods is needed;
if we are talking about a gravity network, then polymer, ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes are used;
pipes that are located outside the boundaries of the building should be about fifteen centimeters in diameter and laid at the level of ten to twelve centimeters;
if there are few floors in the building, then several houses can be combined into a single network;
if it is impossible to arrange a gravity system, then it is better to opt for a pressure sewer.

Another important point is the choice of design. This is really important when designing an autonomous sewer network.

There can be three options for septic tanks that are used:

aeration tanks;
storage septic tank;
treatment.

Now let's talk about them a little more. Aerotanks are the latest solutions using several cleaning methods. After using such a septic tank, the liquid is cleared to almost 100 percent. Water can be easily drained into the ground, a reservoir and used for irrigation. The storage category septic tank is an improved version of the cesspool, in which cleaning is not carried out, but only drains are collected. When the septic tank is filled to a certain level, it becomes necessary to clean it. This is usually done with the help of special sewage equipment.

If we talk about the differences from the cesspool, then no filtration into the soil in this case is carried out. This means that no harm is done to the environment. But still, this type of septic tank has been used extremely infrequently in recent years due to the high cost of the cost of services of special sewage equipment. This type can be used only if you live in the house relatively infrequently.

Treatment septic tanks are used not only for accumulation, but also for the purification of sewage. As a rule, at first, the effluents in them are settled, after which decomposition occurs at the biological level with the help of special bacteria - anaerobic and aerobic, which are specially added to the ground for this purpose.

Their use allows you to purify the water by about 65 percent, after which it goes into the ground, where it is further purified.

For this reason, the best types of soil for this category of septic tanks will be sandy and sandy loam. If the earth is clay, then it is better to use another septic tank, although this option is not prohibited in this case. It’s just that then the installation of a septic tank will turn out to be too expensive, since there will still be the necessary special installation to create filtration fields.

Kinds

In your own home, sewage can be of several types and is classified according to various criteria.

There are usually three of these criteria:

the location of the sewer;
the purposes for which it will be used;
difference in the type of waste that will be collected.

If we take the first two criteria, then the system under consideration is as follows.

outdoor. It is a complex for receiving wastewater from buildings and other facilities and transporting them to special treatment facilities or a place of discharge into a centralized sewerage intake. Typically, this includes pipelines, as well as wells of a rotary and revision type.
Internal. Such a sewerage system collects wastewater inside the house thanks to special water intake devices and pipeline systems, after which it transports them along the main line to a special external sewerage complex.
Cleaning waste. Before wastewater is discharged into the ground or a reservoir, it must be cleaned thanks to a special four-stage system, which consists of several levels (physical-chemical, disinfection, mechanical, biological).

If we take the criterion of collected effluents, then sewage is next.

Domestic. It can also be called household or household fecal. It is usually referred to as K1. This type of sewage includes the whole complex of devices that are connected to various plumbing fixtures. This includes trays, drains, siphons, funnels, as well as a network of various pipelines, which consist of pipes of different sizes, fasteners and fittings.
Industrial or industrial. Usually in the schemes, its designation goes under the abbreviation K3. This type of sewerage is intended to divert water, which is used in some kind of technological process. This type of sewerage is not used in their own homes, but it is impossible not to say about it.
Stormy or rainy. This type is usually referred to as K2. Such a system is a whole set of downpipes, gutters, sand traps, storm water inlets, funnels, and so on. Usually, most of such a mechanism is laid in the open, but pipelines under the foundation can also be used to transport rainwater somewhere outside the site.

It should also be noted that sewerage in a private house can be of two types:

autonomous;
centralized.

The type chosen will depend on where exactly the sewage type will be drained - into your own septic tank or into the central line through a collector-type well. If the local sewerage runs close to the house and connection to it will be cheap, then it will be more profitable to connect to it due to the fact that the costs of use in this case will still be lower.

In addition, treatment systems can be different in nature.

These are the following types:

septic tank:
dry closet;
biocleaning with the help of a special unit;
cesspool.

The septic tank has already been mentioned, and therefore let's talk about other types. A dry closet would be a suitable solution only for a cottage where the owners rarely live. Yes, and he does not solve the issue of drains from the shower and kitchen. Purification using a special station is advantageous due to high performance and a good degree of wastewater treatment. But the costs for this option will be considerable due to the need for energy costs and the high cost of equipment. The cesspool option was the most common not so long ago. But recently, the number of drains has increased significantly, and few cesspools can cope with it. In addition, the risk of land pollution has increased significantly for this reason.

Preparatory work

Each of the above solutions for wastewater treatment plants requires a clear understanding of the device and the purposes for which it will be used. For this reason, before starting sewerage work, the necessary preparations should be made so that the system can really work efficiently after it is built and put into operation.

What should be taken into account?

Before you start creating a sewer, you should calculate everything to the smallest detail. And the first factor that will be extremely important is the choice of a place for installing the system.

Its placement will be influenced by such factors.

How close are groundwater.
Relief features of the territory where the sewerage will be located. Here we are talking about the fact that the movement of water is usually carried out by gravity, which means that the slope of the soil will be extremely important.
The physical structure of the soil.
Presence or absence of sources of drinking water.
How much does the soil freeze in winter?

Sandy soil is usually loose, which means that liquid can easily pass through it, which means that there is a possibility of contamination with household waste. Using the simplest solution as an example - a septic tank made of concrete rings or tires, we will consider what needs to be considered. First you need to calculate its volume. We will proceed from the fact that one family member who lives in the house takes two hundred liters of water, which must be settled for three days.

That is, for a family with four members, a septic tank with a volume of just under 2.5 thousand liters will be needed.

In addition to the factors mentioned above, it should be said that the distance to the nearest residential building should be no more than five meters. It should be the same to the neighboring site. If there is a highway nearby, then the distance should be twenty meters. And if there is a reservoir or a water intake point nearby, then the distance should be at least fifty meters. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that if an elevated level of groundwater is observed on the site, then the design must be supplemented with a pump or pump for transporting groundwater to the filter well.

Another factor to consider is the choice of pipe materials.. It is from this factor that the time of using the entire mechanism will depend. If we talk about sewage of an internal type, then pipes made of polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride with a cross section of 11 centimeters are usually used here, and for breeding - with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters. Their cost will be lower than metal pipes, and their service life will be longer.

Connections should usually be made with rubber collars that are sealed with a special silicone-based substance. If we are talking about installing the outer part, then use other orange pipes. They are made in such a color scheme to make it easier to find them in the ground. They are made of especially strong plastic and also have a diameter of 11 centimeters.

Design

As it became clear, any installation and construction work cannot be carried out without the preliminary creation of project documentation. And plumbing is no exception. A sewerage scheme is being formed from a general layout plan for the so-called wet elements. The wiring can be configured in any way, depending on the wishes of the customer.

Here are some important things to keep in mind:

sewage discharge from the room where the toilet is located should be carried out exclusively using pipes with a cross section of 10-12 centimeters and a length of at least 1 meter;
under drains from the shower room and kitchen, you can use polyvinyl chloride or five-centimeter-sized polypropylene pipes;
if the building has two or more floors and there will be more than one toilet, then they should be placed exclusively on top of each other (this rule does not work for a one-story house and you can place it anywhere);
wiring bends should be made by combining two plastic elbows, the bend of which has an angle of forty-five degrees, which should minimize the risk that the sewer will clog;

the toilet should be connected directly to the sewer riser at a minimum distance from the pipe;
other plumbing fixtures should be connected to the sewer network above the place where the toilet is connected in order to exclude the possibility of feces getting into the drainage lines;
the sewer riser must be taken out to the roof and a fan hood should be installed on it to ensure ventilation of the sewer inside;
the greatest distance for connecting plumbing-type appliances to the riser should not be more than three meters, and the toilet bowl - a meter.

In addition, other expert advice should be given:

when creating an internal sewage project, you must first draw up a building scheme on a scale, before that, having carried out all measurements with a tape measure;
now it is necessary to determine the place of installation of risers;
conditionally on all floors we mark the location of plumbing fixtures;
depict the location of the pipes on the graph;
determine the dimensions of the riser and the fan pipe based on the number of devices;
we find the exit point of the sewer from the building;
sum up the length of all pipes and carry out the calculation of shaped elements;
now we draw a conclusion and draw up a sewerage scheme.

Mounting

So, now let's move on to the direct installation of sewage in our own home and find out how to properly carry it out. Laying the sewer after the project has been made and calculated, should start with the installation of a septic tank. To do this, you need to dig a pit somewhere three meters deep. In advance, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the septic tank, taking into account the number of people living in the apartment. You can make a pit yourself, but to speed up the process it will not be superfluous to involve special equipment. A sand cushion is made at the bottom of the pit. Its thickness should be at least fifteen centimeters.

Now we create a formwork structure from boards or chipboard, which must immediately be reinforced with a special reinforcing belt. You can make such a belt from rods made of metal. To tie up such rods for greater confidence, you can use steel wire. Now we make a couple of holes in the formwork and install pipe trims in them. These segments will become the entry points for the system highway and the overflow pipe that connects the sections of the septic tank.

Now the entire formwork structure should be concreted. A vibrating tool is used to evenly distribute the solution. Note that this design must be monolithic, which is why it is usually poured once. It should also be cited as an example if a two-chamber septic tank is required. First, the bottom of the first compartment is formed by pouring concrete. As a result, we get a sealed structure where the waste will settle. It is in this part that solid large waste fractions will settle below. But in the second part, a slightly purified liquid will accumulate.

Due to the presence of a pipe that connects both compartments, it will go to the adjacent chamber.

There is no need to make a bottom in the second compartment due to the fact that the section is made on the basis of monolithic walls. You can also use concrete rings for this, which will simply be stacked one on top of the other. At the bottom we make a thick layer of sedimentary rocks. It will filter drains. You can use gravel, pebbles or crushed stone. Between the parts we install an overflow pipe. It is located somewhere at the level of the upper third of the wells. Note that usually summer residents use a two-section septic tank when carrying out the sewerage installation process. Although, if desired, there may be more compartments, which will provide higher quality cleaning.

It is also easy to make a ceiling for a septic tank yourself. This requires concrete and formwork construction. Or you can take a reinforced concrete slab. In this part, a special inspection hatch must be made. It will allow you to control the hood, as well as filling the sections. After all this, when the installation is completed, it is required to fill the pit with sand or earth. It is necessary to clean the sump somewhere every two to three years.

The next step will be laying the highway. It will be carried out from the septic tank to the area where the sewer pipe comes out of the foundation. Note that the pipeline must go as if on a slope so that the waste water can flow down. It is important that the larger the size of the pipes used, the smaller the inclined angle will be necessary for the high-quality operation of the line. But the average is about two degrees.

Note that the sewer should be laid lower than the freezing level of the ground. Usually we are talking about an indicator of one meter, but sometimes an indicator of 70 centimeters will be enough. Although if the region is cold, then the level should be increased to one and a half meters. Before laying the pipes at the bottom of the trench, a dense sand cushion should be created, compacting it well. This will allow for reliable pipe fixation and prevent the line from collapsing during seasonal soil displacement.

If we talk about the most correct scheme, then for giving the best solution would be to lay a direct line from the building to the collector. If necessary, you can make a turn and install a well for inspection in this place. You can use cast-iron or plastic pipes intended for the external type of sewage. At the joints, everything should be done as tightly as possible. When everything is ready, the trench is covered with sand, and only then soil is laid on it.

Corrugated pipes are used to connect the inside to the outside. This makes it possible to ensure reliability during ground movements.

To lay pipes in a building, we will need:

sharper knife;
saw for working with plastic;
rubber seal kits.

First we need to prepare the shaped elements.

These are the following elements:

transition sleeves that can provide a transition between pipes of different sizes;
connection fittings for three or four holes, which allow you to make a pipeline branching;
transitional branches necessary for the formation of transitions between pipes with the same size;
bends that form angles, they can be 45 or 90 degrees.

In general, sewer installation in your own home will not be difficult if everything is calculated correctly. First, vertical risers are installed in the required quantity. Usually they are installed from the basement to the roof, so that the whole structure can be successfully combined with the ventilation shaft. The place for installation is usually selected closer to the toilets, which should be located no further than a meter from the riser. If the toilets are located, say, one below the other, and the house is small in size, then one riser for such a building will be quite enough.

Note that the farthest plumbing fixture should not be further from the riser than five meters.

Now the pipes are connected to the riser. First, the toilet pipes are connected, which should be lower than all the others. After that, the side branches are connected. Sometimes a large number of plumbing fixtures can be attached to the supply. It should be said that the thickness of the supply pipe should be taken with the calculation of the overall performance. The last step will be to connect the devices in question using siphons. Then everything will depend on the selected category of waste disposal, the properties of the land, as well as how groundwater behaves. Therefore, for each case, everything will be individual.

It will also not be superfluous to give an example of creating a country sewerage mechanism without pumping. Summer residents are looking at such systems more and more often, and therefore it will not be superfluous to explain how to make them. Note that such systems are represented by a two or three-chamber septic tank, which will be active at the same time. If the mechanism has two tanks, the sump will occupy three quarters of the structure, and for three-chamber ones - one second. In the first part, the sedimentation of heavy substances is carried out. As it fills, the liquid also enters another compartment, where the light parts are separated. In the third part, the water is completely cleaned of dirt and enters a well for drainage or a filtration field. It is important that both containers are airtight.

This type of system requires pumping, but not as clean as when using a simple septic tank. This is done using a drainage or fecal sewer pump, the cost of which will depend on various factors. Similar equipment will be used to remove the sediment that accumulates in the sump. It should be noted that the frequency of this procedure will be affected by both the composition of the waste type and the size of the reservoir. The structure will be subject to cleaning when the height of the sludge reaches the overflow level. Then it will need to be pumped out.

For six months, somewhere around 70-80 liters of sediment usually accumulate in the tank.

Standards for the location of sewer outlets for different plumbing fixtures

Any sewer can be designed in such a way that all plumbing fixtures that are connected to it have a minimum number of different intermediate elements, which will only complicate the arrangement of the mechanism and significantly reduce its reliability. The ideal solution is when the siphon coming after the plumbing fixture is immediately connected with a smooth pipe with a previously installed sewer socket. For implementation, it will not be superfluous to know exactly where the plumbing equipment will be located even before creating the project. And it would be even better to know which plumbing fixture will be installed in a given place.

At the same time, for different categories of plumbing equipment, there are features that make it possible to simplify the sewer connection. It and the placement of various plumbing fixtures will be seriously influenced by factors such as the level of a clean type floor. Indeed, in relation to this parameter, the height of the equipment and sewer sockets and the location of water sockets are being set. This parameter should be known in advance, which is why the installation of sewage pipelines can be carried out even before the floor screed is poured and a finish type coating is applied.

Now let's say a little more about the plumbing standards related to the system for certain devices.

The height of the siphon connection to the sewer socket for the washbasin should be at the level of 53-55 centimeters from the level of the clean floor. Its center should be directly in the center of the washbasin. To create a connection, you can use sewer pipes with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters.
The center of the socket should be at the level of 22-24 centimeters, if we are talking about a hanging toilet.
In the case of a sink, this figure is 30-45 centimeters right in the center of the sink.
If a garbage grinder is built into the sink, then the bell center should be at a height of 30-40 centimeters, but shifted to any side.
For a side-mounted toilet, this figure will be somewhere around 18-19 centimeters.
For washing machines and dishwashers, the connection of the drain hoses will be at a height of 60-70 centimeters.
For bathtubs, as well as shower cabins with a tray, it is necessary that the bell-shaped center of the sewer pipe with a diameter of 5 centimeters be at a distance of no more than 6 centimeters from the level of the finished floor. If this is not possible, then the installation should be carried out on a stand. Although there are a number of bath models, the connection of which is carried out at the level of 8-10, or even 13 centimeters.

These recommendations work almost always, as manufacturers of such goods try to comply with generally accepted standards, which, by the way, are not legally prescribed anywhere. But in reality, anything can happen, so the actual presence of equipment that will be installed in a predetermined place will be a big plus.

Possible problems and solutions

It should be said that quite often, even without violations during installation, there are problems in the sewerage system in your own home.

The most common troubles are as follows.

The sewer smells bad. To eliminate the appearance of unpleasant odors, toilets and sinks are attached to the mechanism using u-shaped siphons, where there is always a little water. A barrier of this type does not allow unpleasant odors to pass through.

blockage. It often happens that the system is clogged, even if the installation was carried out according to all the necessary rules. For this reason, risers on all floors should be equipped with special fittings so that there is no need to disassemble the system until the plug is removed.
Freezing sewers. This is another problem that comes up frequently. The reason is that many simply lay sewers above the freezing level of the soil. It should be said that this problem should not be ignored due to the fact that sooner or later the pipe may simply burst and then it will need to be replaced and repaired.
Mismatch between different elements. To avoid such a situation, installation should begin with the installation of an outlet-node connecting the riser to the pipe, which is suitable for the septic tank. The outlet is a metal sleeve with pipe trim. Its diameter must be larger than the size of the riser pipes. Usually we are talking about the figure of 13-15 centimeters. And the sleeve should crawl out of the foundation by 12-16 centimeters.

To prevent the above and other problems from appearing, the following principles should be followed during the installation of such a system:

if the pipes have different diameters, then they must be joined using special adapters;
using oblique type tees, you can connect risers and pipes;
the toilet should be located as close as possible to the main riser;
installation of external sewerage should be carried out exclusively in the warm season;
as you approach the riser, the pipe size should become larger, not smaller;
where the kitchen and bathroom pipes intersect, a collector should be placed.

In order for the sewer mechanism in your own home to always work efficiently and efficiently, and also function well, experts recommend following a few simple rules. The first thing to do is to constantly flush the pipelines of the external and internal type with plenty of hot water. The second tip is that in plumbing fixtures, especially in the bathroom and in the kitchen, it is required to use garbage nets to prevent hair, dirt, and various insoluble substances from entering the drain.

Another important recommendation of specialists is to pump out various sedimentary masses from the septic tank at the right time, otherwise they may cause a breakdown of the entire system. Another tip from the experts is to not allow waste grease to go down the drain. Especially when it comes to animal fats, which settle on the pipe walls and can cause clogging of the pipe.

When purchasing components and pipes, experts recommend checking whether a rubber lining is present in the socket, as it is constantly lost by many people. Under no circumstances should a vent pipe be connected to the ventilation mechanism. According to experts, when inserting PVC pipes into a ditch, it is necessary to carefully monitor the joints due to the fact that the connecting places are extremely fragile and unstable.

It is also recommended to install an emergency drain to clean the sewer. It is usually mounted as close as possible to the area where the pipe enters the building in an accessible place. In addition, if there is a usual set of water consumption points in the building, then it is completely optional to install a fan pipe, you can limit yourself to a vacuum-type valve.

In general, as you can see, the creation of a sewerage system in a private house is a process that requires serious calculations and a lot of attention from the owner of the house. Moreover, the creation of such a system involves thinking through the water supply system at home. In addition, much will depend on what type of sewerage will be created. Pressure sewage will have its own characteristics, and external or internal - their own. In any case, for the competent implementation of such an undertaking, it is important to think through everything to the smallest detail and consult with experts.

The water supply of a residential facility is unthinkable without the installation of a wastewater drainage system. Therefore, even before construction, it is necessary to decide where and how to lay sewer pipes in a private house, how to arrange an external pipeline.

We will tell you how to lay sewer pipes within the building and around the site. We will show you how the system is assembled and its components are fastened. In the article we have proposed, installation rules and building codes are given, the technology for performing internal wiring is described.

Construction is out of the question without a preliminary drawing up of a wastewater disposal. A carefully thought out, drawn up scheme will make it possible to rationally use capital investments.

In addition, due to the preliminary drawing up of the sewerage scheme of the building, more opportunities are opened to achieve the required system efficiency.

An example of a wiring diagram: mk - sink; ks - riser; un - toilet bowl (bidet); the mind is the sink of the laver; vn - bath, 50 and 110 - diameters of pipelines of horizontal lines and lines of risers; 1 - siphon with cleaning; 2 – bathtub siphon with overflow; 3 - square; 4 - tee; 5 - cross; 6 - adapter

The main criteria for drawing up a scheme, as a rule, are considered the following:

the number of people in the residential area;
proposed technology for processing (purification) of sewage;
wiring of lines for external discharge of wastewater;
wiring of lines for internal collection and drainage of wastewater.

Having decided on the main points of construction, they calculate the number of system components, including the footage of sewer pipes, and draw up a sketch of the project.

An example of sketching a home sewer for two adjacent nodes: 1 - sink; 2 - toilet bowl; 3 - washbasin; 4 - bath; 5 - plumbing pipeline. The sketch also marks the distances between the components (a, b, c, d)

Piping for a one-story house

Given the availability on the market of lightweight and a complete set of installation fittings, building a sewerage system in a private house is quite affordable on your own. However, it is not easy to build high-quality sewage without consulting specialists and referring to established standards.

Scheme of the sewer network with an output to the septic tank: 1 - riser; general disposal of waste products; 3 - compensating air outlet; 4 - septic tank; 5 - treated wastewater; 6 - additional final filtration

The classic sewer scheme in general terms contains:

sewer riser;
pipes connecting the internal components of the system;
an external pipeline that discharges general effluents;
receiver system.

According to the existing standards for the layout of a one-story structure, the areas adjacent to the external point of outlet of wastewater are plumbing fixtures in the kitchen and sanitary unit.

The wall separating these two rooms of the house is considered the installation site of the riser pipeline. The area of the lower point of the riser pipe is diverted to the external main, and the upper one is displayed on the roof.

Part of the general wiring in a private house - an example of the practical implementation of building an internal horizontal network based on popular polypropylene pipes and other components

The most remote plumbing fixture of the utility zone is connected to the riser by a pipeline with a smaller diameter and taking into account the slope towards the riser by 1.5-2º. Formation rules are given in our recommended article.

The laid highway is used to connect other plumbing fixtures of the economic and technical zone. The toilet bowl is traditionally placed closest to the riser.

Thus, a gravity flow scheme of a one-story private building is created. However, not in every case of a plumbing network device it is possible to organize a gravity flow scheme. Then the problem is solved by introducing additional equipment into the circuit - a pump.

Pipeline in a 2-3-storey building

The structure of a private house on two or three floors is characterized by the arrangement of several economic and technical zones. Moreover, the arrangement of such zones is provided for on each of the existing floors. Accordingly, in such conditions it seems to be a somewhat complicated schematic version compared to the first one - a one-story house.

Classic wiring for buildings with two or more floors: 1- centralized collector; 2 - viewing well; 3 - riser; 4, 5 - revisions; 6 - check valve; 7 - forced movement of drains at the basement level

The norms and rules for the construction of multi-storey buildings regulate the construction of premises of the same type in terms of functionality at a single vertical level. Therefore, the sewerage scheme in this case, for example, concerning toilet rooms, provides for wiring for rooms located one above the other.

A riser pipe designed for multi-storey buildings is passed through all floors and brought to the roof level, taking into account an additional rise of 0.3 m or more if the roof is unused.

For the option with an operated roof, this parameter is at a minimum of 1.5 m. For pitched roofs (a popular design of private houses), the riser is taken to a height of 0.5 m from the level of the roof ridge.

Also, the arrangement of multi-storey buildings provides for the use of compensating elements at the points of passage of the pipeline through the ceilings.

Accordingly, transitions through the ceilings are made waterproof and sound-absorbing, equipped with special fire cuffs.

A practical example of fixing polypropylene pipelines, including sewer risers using special clamps. As you can see, the mount necessarily involves the use of rubber pads.

The riser pipe is fixed directly to the wall using metal clamps with rubber linings. Guidelines for choosing sewer pipes for internal wiring, we advise you to read useful information.

Fastening is carried out without a tight tightening - overhead, to ensure the natural free movement of the pipe vertically. The lower part of the riser through the outlet is displayed to the external sewer line.

What do you need to know about pipe laying?

Traditionally, drain lines from plumbing fixtures such as sinks, bathtubs, laundry sinks are made on the basis of pipelines with a diameter of 50 mm. The outlet channels of toilet bowls require a larger pipe diameter - 110 mm.

At the present stage, polypropylene pipes are traditionally used for the construction of internal sewer lines. However, depending on the specific project and the load (throughput) capacity of the sewer network, different diameters of linear pipelines and risers can be used.

The table below shows the possible options.

In any case, the diameter of the riser pipe of the sewerage scheme of a private house is always taken equal to or greater than the largest floor outlet in diameter

Gravity pipelines of horizontal lines with a diameter of 40-50 mm are mounted, observing the norm of a uniform slope equal to 0.03 m per 1 m of length.

Gravity pipelines with a diameter of 85 and 110 mm are laid, observing the norm of a uniform slope equal to 0.02 mm per 1 m of length. The maximum allowable slope angle is not more than 0.15 mm for the entire length of a separately mounted sewer section.

The use of plumbing crosses and tees is a convenient method of piping. In addition, thanks to these circuit elements, patency is created with a lower drag coefficient.

Direct connections of the outlet lines and the riser are made by means of tees, crosses at angles of 45º or 60º. The execution of the scheme in this way allows you to avoid clogging of pipelines during operation.

The scheme and the apartment necessarily provide for the introduction of revisions (cleanings) at the points of the line where the risk of blockages is high.

For a circuit in a private house, the table below shows the location of such circuit elements:

The procedure for the construction of sewerage

Let's briefly consider the main stages in the construction of a sewer pipeline in a private house. Even if you do not decide to do the work on your own, you can control the hired specialists.

Stage # 1 - installation of the yard network

The creation of a sewer system begins with the construction of an external (yard) network. If the length of the courtyard network to the existing one is more than 12 meters, an additional viewing well is arranged. At the same time, the minimum allowable distance from the wall of the house to the manhole is 3-5 m.

He will acquaint you with the methods of constructing the outer part of the pipeline and the rules for laying sewer pipes in the ground, which we highly recommend reading.

In the laying of external sewer lines, they are now mainly used, attracting light weight, excellent performance and affordable price. When laying a route above the level of seasonal freezing, they are used to protect the lines from the formation of ice plugs.

Often, owners of private buildings have to deal with the lack of a centralized sewerage network. In this case, an autonomous system for collecting and filtering wastewater () is arranged. However, the principle of connecting "external internal network" remains the same.

One of the simple and convenient solutions for private households is a sealed septic tank. True, its significant drawback lies in a rather big price, so not every homeowner decides to pay for its purchase.

Stage # 2 - construction of the entrance node to the house

Next, you need to build an input node directly in the structure of a private house (foundation, basement wall). The construction of the node is carried out taking into account possible deformations, for example, due to subsidence of the structure.

The input node and the external pipeline are reliably isolated.

Scheme of the input device (one of the possible): 1 - crumpled clay; 2 - mortar based on cement; 3 - resinous strand; 4 - a sleeve based on a steel pipe

Stage # 3 - installation of risers and bends

At the next stage, the pipes-risers of the internal network are installed. These components of the circuit are recommended to be assembled and pre-installed in the assembled form without fastening or with partial fastening.

Full fastening is carried out after the final assembly of the entire system. After completing the installation of riser pipes, they build horizontal sewer outlet lines, taking into account the required slopes.

The process of building horizontal internal branch lines involves laying sockets and fittings in the direction against the flow of wastewater

Stage # 4 - connecting plumbing

At the final stage, each device is connected to the corresponding outlet through a siphon pipe.

Additionally, it is worth noting: provided that the height of the building is less than 10 meters, the internal sewer system can be built on the basis of non-pressure pipes. At higher heights, pressure pipes are used.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Below is a video practice of wiring and laying a network of pipelines, taking into account the construction of a private house. Full installation cycle, including testing the system in the simplest ways.

Knowing the procedure for arranging a system for draining wastewater from a house, you can try to build a sewer yourself. True, at the stage of laying the pipeline from the outside, help will be required to bury the pipes in the ground.

If in doubt, it is better to contact a company with a good reputation and positive recommendations from your friends. Then the sewer system will be arranged correctly and will serve your family for decades.

Please leave comments in the block below. Share useful information, photos and your own experience gained in the field of installing or repairing a sewer pipeline. Ask questions on controversial, interesting and unclear points.

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When arranging a country house, many communications are often installed by hand. There is nothing surprising in this: the process itself is quite simple, and the execution of work does not require special skills. Of course, there are certain rules that must be observed: for example, it is worth carefully designing the structure and making sure that one communication line does not interfere with another. About how to install a sewer in a private house, and will be discussed in this article.

If we talk about sewerage, then the first thing you need to know is that this system consists of internal and external parts, and the arrangement of each of them is carried out in its own way. External sewerage is installed somewhat easier, since the work is carried out in open space. From the inside, everything is a little more complicated, so installing a sewer in a private house with your own hands begins with it.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

The first step in building a structure is planning. You need to know exactly how much plumbing will be installed, and where it will be installed. When performing work, be sure to have a pre-drawn project at hand. One rule can be immediately deduced: when installing a riser, it must be placed as close as possible to the wall under which the sewer outlet is equipped. Naturally, this wall should be located on the side where the sewer well is located, which, in turn, is arranged as low as possible so that it is easier for drains to move there on their own (read also: "").

The riser is usually made of 110 mm plastic pipe. All outlet pipes are connected to the riser, through which drains are collected from plumbing fixtures. To connect the toilet to the system, straight sections made of 100 mm pipes are used, and other devices can be connected through various fittings using pipes with a diameter of 32 to 80 mm.

Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in a private house is usually performed parallel to the water line. Such installation of sewerage is especially convenient when communications will be installed in the walls. To do this, it is necessary to prepare the strobes intended for laying pipes. There is one caveat here: the plumbing system works under some pressure, so the slope of the pipes is not a necessary condition.

The sewer system requires a slope, otherwise it simply will not work: the structure operates on a gravity basis, so the slope must be observed in all its sections, regardless of the length of the pipelines or the location of the devices. According to regulatory documents, the average slope should be within 2-3 cm per 1 meter of the pipeline. When creating a slope, you need to carefully monitor compliance with this value, otherwise the system will begin to create problems very soon.

To connect plastic pipes, it is necessary to use fittings from the same material: such a connection will provide the structure with sufficient strength and tightness. With hidden sewerage, it is necessary not only to lay pipes in prepared strobes, but also to fix them with clamps for reliability. The strobes themselves are subsequently masked with a special solution.

Do-it-yourself outdoor sewer installation

The elements of the external sewer system include all parts that are equipped outside the building.

Installing sewerage in a private house requires attention, especially in such moments:

The design should have a minimum of bends and turns, so the entire line should be made as straight as possible.
If plastic pipes were used in the house, then the external sewage system should also be made of this material.

Installation of external sewerage also has some features that you will have to face:

Large volume of earthworks. It is necessary to lay the external sewage system, taking into account the level of soil freezing: the pipes must be below this level so that negative temperatures do not provoke stagnation or rupture of the system.
Creation of a sewer well. Before you create a sewer in a private house, you will need to accurately calculate the amount of drains, which is primarily affected by the number of residents. The large estimated volume of waste indicates the need to create a large reservoir, so the depth of its arrangement should be large enough.
System type selection. The quality of the collection and disposal of wastewater, as well as the convenience of operating the sewer system, will be directly affected by its type. Each design has its own nuances: for example, a conventional cesspool has an extremely low efficiency, but is very cheap, but a powerful biological treatment plant will be expensive, but its performance will be at the highest level. See also: "".

In any case, external sewerage imposes special requirements on its arrangement, and they must be taken into account in order for the design to be as efficient as possible.

earthworks

Earthwork is one of the first stages of sewerage construction. You can perform these works both independently and with the involvement of additional forces (teams of workers or special equipment). Naturally, before work, it is necessary to mark the area along which the trench will pass.

In addition, it is important to pay attention to the slope of the bottom of the trench: when using equipment, the required value will not be reached, so you will have to level everything yourself. In any case, after preparing the trench, its bottom must be covered with a small layer of sand.

Arrangement of a sewer well

This design can be made from different materials:

brickwork;
metal tank;
reinforced concrete rings;
plastic septic tank.

Each system has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

It is worth saying a few words about each of them:

Devices made of bricks or blocks are pretty good elements of the sewer system, but their arrangement takes a lot of time. With little experience in construction work, it may take several days to create a brick well.
The metal structure compares favorably with the brick one by ease of installation and lower cost, but the service life of the device in this case will be much less: the metal is easily corroded, and very soon the device will become faulty.
Reinforced concrete wells are quite common structures, since strength, reliability and durability can be distinguished among their advantages. The disadvantage of a well made of reinforced concrete rings is a difficult installation: finished rings have a considerable weight, so it is almost impossible to install them with your own hands.
Plastic septic tanks can also be attributed to reliable and high-quality structures: they are durable and much lighter than reinforced concrete counterparts, so they can be installed with the efforts of 2-3 people. True, the cost of construction is somewhat higher than the cost of previous devices, but the money spent will pay off in the very near future. In addition, if we take into account the labor costs for arranging, for example, concrete wells, then the price will almost be equal. See also: "".

How to install sewer pipes

The installation of the pipeline usually starts from the house - it is easier to monitor compliance with the slope of the structure. When laying pipes, they must be connected with couplings. When connecting several drain systems into one, it is necessary to use tees or other appropriate fittings.

The last stage of laying the pipeline is connecting the line to the sewer well. For this, couplings are also used that connect all pipes of the external sewage system to each other and to the internal sewage system. When the pipes are mounted and installed in their places, the trench is covered with earth, and the work is completed.

The subtleties of arranging sewerage

There are some nuances that you have to deal with when installing a sewer:

Too deep level of soil freezing. With this phenomenon, the pipes must be laid too deep, and the amount of work will increase very much. You can avoid this phenomenon with the help of thermal insulation.

It can be done in two ways:

with the help of heat-insulating materials that do this job well;
with the help of electric heating, implemented by a cable stretched along the entire sewer line.

The need to maintain slope. It is imperative to observe the slope, and its value must be within the specified limits. The reason for this sounds like this: too little slope will not allow waste to move through the system, and the system will soon become clogged, and if the slope exceeds the norm, the water will move too quickly and will not be able to wash the pipes from the inside, which also leads to blockages.

Design choice. The selection of a sewer system is an individual question, and there is no universal answer to it. To make the choice of sewerage more understandable, it is worth reading an article about the types of sewer systems.

Conclusion

Installation of sewerage in a private house can be done with your own hands - even inexperienced craftsmen will not have any special problems. And if you stock up on some knowledge and carefully prepare for work, then the design will turn out to be reliable and will be able to function for a very long time and with high quality.

The arrangement of sewerage in a private house begins with a layout and a laying scheme. This allows you to most conveniently arrange all plumbing, make the right slope, accurately calculate all consumables.

As a result, the system will work smoothly, and in the event of a breakdown or clogging of one of the elements, everything can be quickly and easily repaired. In this article, we will tell you how to properly draw up internal and external (external) sewerage schemes for a private house or country house, what is the optimal depth for laying sewer pipes and what consumables should be used when constructing and installing an autonomous system with your own hands in the house and outside.

Charting starts from a distant plumbing fixture in the attic or top floor. All horizontal lines must be reduced to one riser. To save money and consumables, bathrooms on different tiers are placed one vertically.

Sewerage in the house consists of:

Water seals that prevent odors from entering the room;
Drainage from all plumbing;
Pipes leading drains to the external sewer;
Elbows and tees connecting pipes into a single system;
Clamps in the walls that support the pipes and give them direction and angle.
Central stand.

It is important that the house does not have a transition from a larger sewer diameter to a smaller one. Therefore, in the diagram, the toilet should be located as close as possible to the riser.

Accurate drawing of the internal system depends on the number of storeys of the building, the presence of a basement, the number of plumbing used and the number of users. The depth of the septic tank and the connection to additional equipment (pumping station or separately for each device) also matters.

On the diagram All items must be displayed to scale. so that in the event of a scheduled repair or an emergency, you can quickly figure out the wiring and find a breakdown.

outer line

External sewerage starts from the pipeline from the foundation. Effluent is diverted to a septic tank, cesspool or filtering structure. At each turn of the pipe, revisions are installed (adapters with covers, with which you can quickly clear the blockage). Outside there is also an inspection well and a ventilation hood.

Ventilation is removed from the riser through a fan pipe. Due to strong foreign odors, it cannot be mounted near windows, with access to the courtyard or near smokers. Categorically it must not be connected to a conventional ventilation shaft. Instead of an umbrella, you can use a special vacuum valve at the top of the riser (not to be confused with a check valve!).

Advantages and disadvantages of different types of tanks

The final element of the system is a storage and cleaning tank. In the absence of a central collector for the intake of drains, autonomous installations are used.

Cesspool. It is easy to organize on the site and is the cheapest option. But it cannot cope with large volumes of stocks. There is a possibility of dirt getting into the groundwater and an unpleasant smell.
A do-it-yourself septic tank made of concrete-filled bricks or pre-cast concrete poles c. It performs its functions well, durable and strong. The disadvantages include a long installation time and serious construction costs.
Industrial stand-alone installation. Such a septic tank is more expensive, but the costs are covered by the speed of construction, high quality and long-term operation of the equipment.
Biological treatment station. The most expensive option, requiring constant electricity. Differs in the highest degree of cleaning and big productivity.

Consumables, calculation and prices

Be sure to determine the volume of the septic tank. The calculation is carried out taking into account that 200 liters of water per day is used for each inhabitant of the house. Drains in the septic tank settle for 3 days. Based on these data, we obtain the exact size of the sewage tank.

So, a family of 4 people consumes 800 liters. In three days, 2400 liters are accumulated. Means, it is necessary to select a septic tank of just such a volume. If desired, you can make a small margin in case of a maximum load of the tank. Septic tanks with such parameters cost from 20 thousand rubles.

Main armature:

Crosses for connecting 4 sections at an angle (80-100 rubles).
Tees with a 45 or 90 degree flank.
Elbow for connecting pipes with a height difference (450 rubles / pc.).
Rectilinear double-sided clutch with rubber cuffs in the sockets (from 30 rubles).
Revision (60 rubles)
reductions of different parameters (from 40 rubles / piece)
Hood umbrella (from 50 rubles)

Before you begin to equip the sewer system, you must carefully read the basic requirements put forward to it. As we will tell in a special review.

Water can be not only useful, but also harmful to the human body. Which coarse filter is best suited for a summer residence, find out from this.

Optimum inclination and depth of laying during construction

According to the recommendations of SNiP for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, a stable 3 cm is made for each meter of laying. With a cross section of 100 mm, this value can be reduced to 2 cm. In order to avoid clogging and “fatting” of the sewer in the kitchen, it is advisable to increase the slope by 0.5-1 cm for each meter of wiring.

When mounted on a land plot, the same angle of inclination is observed. A sleeve (a pipe of larger diameter than the main pipeline, protruding 15 cm from each end) is installed in a hole made in the foundation. It provides a transition to the external sewer, and located 30 cm above the freezing level of the soil.

Burying pipes below the freezing level (on average it is 1.6 m) is unprofitable- you will have to make a very deep septic tank. Subject to a constant slope, it will be 4-5 m, where groundwater may already appear. The cost is increased by additional concrete rings and stronger (corrugated) pipes that can withstand both the pressure of the drain and the weight of the soil.

The drain temperature is usually above room temperature, which prevents freezing, and if desired, thermal insulation or heating cable insulation can be used.

Selection of pipes and diameters

Pipes are used to drain waste from plumbing fixtures diameter 5 cm. The pipe from the toilet should have a cross section of 10-11 cm, which will help avoid blockages.

Pipes can be used to organize a sewer system in a private house. cast iron, reinforced concrete or plastic. The latter are more acceptable due to their strength, durability, corrosion resistance and smooth surface.

Outdoor (PVC)

Designed for outdoor networks. They are distinguished by their characteristic orange or yellow-brown color. Despite being relatively cheap, these pipes have sufficient strength, which allows their use both for external and hidden installation. For them, a connection by cold welding is recommended. All turns are made using fittings and bends.

Internal (polypropylene)

For internal communications, they are light gray in color and have different technical parameters, depending on the manufacturer and model. Their common features:

Single or multilayer.
The foam is protected by an aluminum coating and a polymer layer.
The connection is carried out by welding or using special fittings.

Rules for the device and laying of an external system

Briefly, the instruction on how to properly make a local autonomous sewage system in a private country house (dacha) with your own hands looks like this:

Mechanical or manual excavation of a trench.
Formation of a sand cushion.
Layout of all constituent elements (pipeline, trays, fittings).
Connection of fragments, starting from the exit from the internal sewerage. For greater reliability attachment points are treated with silicone sealant.
Testing the tightness of connections at maximum load.
Fill the trench, trying to compact the sand or soil only on the sides of the pipe, avoiding a sharp load at a right angle. The thickness of the sand bed at least 15 cm.

For pipeline turns, fittings for external engineering networks are used. If the distance from the foundation to the septic tank is more than 10-12 m, it makes sense to equip the site with an intermediate revision well.

This video shows how to properly make a sewer for a private house, as well as how to lay pipes yourself:

How to properly sewer in a private house, do everything according to the scheme yourself and lay pipes for the system without errors? Installation of the sewer system will be better if follow a few guidelines:

When installing a sewer it is important to consider every nuance: the placement of plumbing, the relief of the site, the location of the intake manifold or septic tank, the depth of pipe laying and the angle of inclination.

Only with careful scheming, careful planning and order installing a sewerage system in a private house or in a country house with your own hands can guarantee that the system will not freeze in the middle of winter and will drain well without creating additional problems in the house and on the site.

A person feels good where there are comfortable conditions for living. And in order to create them, you need to think about how to lay a sewer in a private house. Firstly, you should familiarize yourself with the features of this process, and secondly, decide on the material used.

It is worth noting that now, plastic pipes, albeit slowly, but still displace metal pipelines. As for cast iron, they are used very rarely, due to their weight and high cost. In contrast, polymer products are much lighter in weight, easier to install and durable.

It looks like laying plastic pipes

The main stages of laying sewerage in a private house

So that the system functions properly and there are no unforeseen situations before laying sewer pipes in a private house , need to be well-designed. It is desirable that the design of engineering systems be carried out at the time of drawing up the project of the house, but this is relevant only if new construction is planned.

This is how an example of a sewerage project for your home looks like

First of all, you need to take care of the compact arrangement of water intake points, which allows you to organize the reception of wastewater into a common riser. If the kitchen and bath are located at different ends of the house, then you will have to plan the construction of two risers and septic tanks, which entails additional costs.

Plan the placement of water points

the toilet must be connected to the riser separately, in addition, other devices cannot be added to the connecting pipe;

This is how the toilet is connected to the riser

the connection of other appliances should not be at a level lower than the connection of the toilet bowl;
all plumbing, except for the toilet, may have a common connection to the riser;
The diameter of the supply pipe must not be less than the size of the drain pipe.

After the project has been drawn up, you can proceed to such stages of system installation as choosing the installation site for the treatment plant, arranging the internal sewer network, removing it from the house and installing the external sewer. If you are faced with this for the first time, and do not know how to lay sewer pipes in a private house, but want to do everything yourself, then it is advisable not only to read the installation instructions, but also watch the video.

Choose the location of the wastewater treatment plant

Installation of the outer part of the sewer system

Detailed instructions will help you figure out how to properly lay sewer pipes in a private house. Remember to always follow the established order of operations. And it all starts with laying pipes in a trench, you need to dig it in advance. The optimal distance between the trench and the pipe should be within 200 mm - 20 cm, it all depends on the diameter. Next you need:

Dig a hole for a septic tank or a sewage well, the depth should be at least 80 cm, and most importantly, 20 cm below the freezing level of the soil.

This is what a septic tank looks like

Taking into account local conditions, as well as the installation depth of the sewage system, it is necessary to ensure the optimal degree of slope of the nozzles.

Slope degree of plastic pipe

Tamp the bottom of the trench, freeing it from large stones and solid inclusions in advance. After that, a sand cushion is created.

Rammed trench

Having understood how best to lay the pipeline through the foundation from the place of its withdrawal from the house, the pipes are laid along the entire length.
Sealant must be used to connect structural elements.
Smooth bends are used for pipeline bends.

This is what a smooth pipeline looks like

The external system is connected to the VOC chamber by means of rubber seals.

After completing all the steps, you can backfill the system; for this, not only soil is taken, but also sand. In order for the external sewage device to pass without problems, you need to take care of purchasing components (elbows, crosses, fittings, tees, transitions, plugs).

Elements for the construction of sewerage in the house

Stages of internal sewerage in a private house

You don’t know how to lay sewer pipes in a private house and where to start, if you figure it out, everything is very simple. Installation starts from plumbing fixtures and goes to the location of the external pipe. Laying is best done under the floor. So let's get started:

Let's take care of the internal laying of sewerage

First you need to connect the S-shaped pipe or water seal to the plumbing devices.
Then the first sewage pipeline is connected.
The horizontal pipe structure is connected to the branch pipe by means of two elbows, the angle of which is at least 90 degrees.
Do not forget about the importance of observing the slopes of the structure, for which you need to use clamps that are attached to the walls. Thanks to them, the structure is constantly in its normal position.
The pipes coming from the toilet are connected to the main elements of the sewer system, connected by a perpendicular tee.
To ensure the passage of the pipeline through the ceiling, it is necessary to install a metal sleeve in the insulated pipe.
And to go from a pipe with a diameter of 5 cm to 10 cm, you will need a special adapter.
You can equalize the external and internal sewerage using a knee.

It will be better if you observe the slopes of the pipes, with a diameter of 5 cm it should be 3 cm, and with 10 cm - 2 cm. In order to lubricate the existing pipe joints, you need to use special hermetic mixtures.

Sealing and lubrication of sewer pipe joints

sewer outlet

Instructions on how to properly lay a sewer in a private house are not limited to a description of indoor and outdoor installation. She also describes how to properly remove pipes from the house. In advance, you need to provide a place for the outlet, you also need to install several branches to connect the two parts of the pipeline. Do not forget that it is imperative to install a metal sleeve for passing pipes through the foundation, and insulate the space remaining between the walls of this device.

It looks like a metal sleeve for a pipe

As you can see, if you strictly follow the instructions, then anyone who has the desire and patience can cope with the arrangement of a complex sewer system in a private house with their own hands.