The construction market offers a lot of materials for renovation, but it is difficult to compete with drywall, which allows you to realize any design idea. It not only perfectly levels any surface, but also saves space. After all, a metal frame based on a special profile does not take up much space, does not lend itself to corrosion, withstands significant loads, and is not damaged by insects. Partitions and ceilings, niches and arches will last a long time if the installation of the frame for sheathing it with drywall is done correctly.
The frame is mounted using several types of profile:
- Guide profile ud determines the plane of the future design. It is used not only to connect the product with the base, but also to combine several planes of the product being created.
- Carrier profile cd withstands the weight of the finished surface, since drywall is fixed on it.
- Partition profiles uw and cw differ from the previous types only in size, as they are used to create plasterboard partitions. They produce uw and cw in different widths: 50 mm, 75 mm, 100 mm, 125 mm and 150 mm.
- Profile connectors There are 3 types: straight cd, cruciform cd ("crab") and two-level cd. The first type is used to extend the carrier profile, the second - for cruciform connections and the third connects the carrier profiles in different planes.
- U-bracket Designed specifically for fixing to the ceiling or walls of a load-bearing profile.
- quick suspension used in the creation of ceiling molds. It consists of a spoke with a loop that secures it to the ceiling and a spring latch that slides over the spoke. The device allows you to quickly level the frame. Among the disadvantages is the inability to use at a short distance from the ceiling to the floor slabs.
The drywall profile is not the only component of the future frame.
In addition to the listed profiles, the installation of a metal frame requires fasteners:
- self-tapping texes Ø 3.5 mm and 9.5 mm long, connecting the profiles;
- self-tapping screws for metal Ø 3.5 mm and a length of 25 mm, fixing drywall;
- dowels Ø 6 mm for mounting profiles and other fasteners on walls and floor slabs.
Ceiling frame manufacturing technology
The frame for the ceiling structure has the form of a grid, which is formed by cd load-bearing profiles, fixed on the walls with ud guides and on the ceiling with U-shaped brackets or a quick hanger.
The installation of the grid in one parallel is carried out with profiles with a pitch of 400 mm, and perpendicularly - every 2.5 m.
The ceiling, sheathed with plasterboard, will hide the lamps or LED strip installed in any order.
The jumpers used to connect the sheets to each other are installed using the cd crab connector.
The frame is fixed to the ceilings with suspensions or U-shaped brackets, which must be installed at intervals of 500 mm under each supporting profile.
At each stage, the frame for attaching drywall sheets must be controlled by a level - hydraulic or laser. The guide profiles are checked by level, and the carrier profiles are checked by a stretched thread. You can fix the line with a pencil or beat off with a cord.
Installation of a frame for drywall for wall cladding
Compared to the technology for manufacturing a ceiling frame, it is easier to make a base for a plasterboard wall. Vertical bearing profiles are installed in 600 mm increments in the center. Two are placed along the edges of the drywall sheet and the third in the middle.
The plane of the wall is correctly formed in this way: at the first stage, the installation of the guide profile is carried out on the floor, then - with the help of a level - on the walls and at the last step - on the ceiling.
In the space between the walls and drywall, insulation, sound-absorbing material, and a cassette air conditioner can be laid.
On the walls, the supporting profile is fixed with U-shaped brackets, located in increments of 600 mm. When sheathing a wall, one wall is first trimmed (from profile installation to drywall installation) and only then the frame is mounted on the next wall.
Mounting the frame for walls and partitions (video)
Installation of a frame for partitions
The installation of a frame for a plasterboard partition has its own distinctive features, the main of which is the absence of fasteners on the walls: the base is wedged between the ceiling and the floor. Just like in the previous versions of the frame, the surface of the partition is formed by uw guide profiles, fixed on the walls, on the ceiling, on the floor.
On their basis, vertical bearing profiles cw are fixed with an interval of 400 mm. It is impossible to save on profile options: if you install racks with an arbitrary step, the partition will be unstable and short-lived.
If a doorway is planned in the partition, its installation should be under special control. A wooden beam is inserted into the profiles that are fixed around the perimeter of the opening. It will help to securely fix and hold the door of any size.
Building a frame for a niche or other three-dimensional structure
Mounting a frame for an arch or niche is a relatively difficult job that requires experience and imagination. The volumetric frame is mounted according to the box principle.
From the following video you will learn how to make a drywall niche rack:
Subtleties to consider:
- All angles(including indirect ones) are assembled from twisted guide profiles. They can be trimmed for rounding. The corner profile is wedged with jumpers between two adjacent walls.
- slots two vertically arranged ud guides are formed, connected to each other by jumpers that limit the opening horizontally. If done differently, the frame will not be stable.
- Mounting the frame for shelves: the base of the ud-profile is installed around the perimeter, then it is reinforced with load-bearing profiles.
Niches and alcoves can be originally illuminated by hiding pipes, wiring or ventilation under drywall sheets.
When assembling a three-dimensional frame for drywall, you have to combine different methods that are described in the article. One fragment can be assembled according to the same principle as the installation of the ceiling, the other - as a partition, the third - according to the principle of wall cladding, and the fourth can be generally combined. There are no uniform standards here - including engineering ingenuity, it is important to consider that any frame, first of all, must be rigid and stable in order to freely withstand the expected load and please the eye with an original interior.
- If the repair includes finishing the walls and ceiling, first the frame must be mounted on the ceiling. Ideal right angles on the ceiling are not common, if you start installing profiles from the walls, it will be difficult to fit drywall sheets.
- When marking the surface to set the profile, the reference point is the lowest angle or elevation of the base ceiling. In the presence of windows, the marking of the walls begins with these sections, since the slopes require special attention.
- If suspensions are not enough, they are easy to make yourself. To do this, you can take a piece of ordinary PP profile. After specifying the length of the suspension with scissors for metal, a part of the profile of the desired length is cut off.
- If the repair involves wall insulation, the distance between the wall and drywall should take into account the thickness of the insulation.
- When planning the installation of a chandelier, heavy paintings, brackets for some devices, even at the stage of mounting the profile, the frame in these areas is reinforced.
- All communications in the house are laid only when the assembly of the frame from the profile is completed. The stock of wire for electrical work is 10-15 cm from the new ceiling. When installing spotlights, carefully plan the laying of metal elements.
- From a drywall profile, you can make a frame for a greenhouse, and the cost of such a design will be several times cheaper than analogues without a choice between price and quality.
If you understand the principle of mounting a metal profile and first prepare a simple structure for plasterboard sheets for a wall, then in the future you can take on more complex projects in the form of a multi-level ceiling, arched openings, decorative niches.
When planning repairs, each owner tries to do everything so that the walls in his house become not only beautiful, but also even. Not so long ago, this was very difficult and time consuming to achieve, but today professional and home builders can solve this issue using drywall. In addition, using drywall boards, you can quickly solve the problem of redevelopment - to make partitions, arches, alcoves. But in order for the material to be fixed on any surface or to create a new structure, it is necessary to make a frame. From what materials it can be made, how to install a drywall frame on the walls, how to fix it - more on that later.
Methods for attaching drywall sheets
The frame is the frame on which the drywall will be attached. Since drywall canvases have weight, and far from small, the crate must be strong. There are two types of material from which it can be made on the wall. This is a timber and in addition, you can install the canvas directly on the wall. Which way to choose? It all depends on the purpose of the room being lined: if there is high humidity in the room (kitchen, bathroom, veranda), then the base is best made of metal - for example, a structural aluminum profile perfectly resists moisture and will not sag over time.
Thanks to the use of a metal base, it is possible to make a structure not next to the wall, but stepping back to the desired distance. So sometimes you have to do it in order to hide communications, create partitions, lay insulation. The disadvantage of this design is excellent sound insulation: if you hit its surface, the sound will be like hitting a drum.
The wooden frame is assembled in the same way as the metal one - it has racks and lintels, only the structures are attached directly to the wall. But how to make a frame for drywall on a wall if there are large drops on it? In this case, the installation of wooden elements will be quite difficult, since it will be necessary to find the points that protrude into the room and use them as a guide when installing all the details. Another way out is to chop off the protrusions as much as possible, and then start mounting the base.
You can also install the canvases by attaching them directly to the wall using glue. But this method can be applied only when the walls are perfectly even, which is extremely rare, otherwise there will be drops. To install drywall sheets directly on the wall, glue is applied to the wrong side in strips, set in place, checked for correct location using a level and secured with props and wedges. The disadvantage of this technology is the inability to attach cabinets and paintings to the wall in the future.
Benefits of using a frame structure
The manufacture of the basis for the installation of drywall sheets has a number of advantages. This is the opportunity:
- Hide all the bumps and other wall defects.
- Create an original structure - make ledges, niches, embody other ideas. And you can make a design of any size.
- Hide various communications.
Depending on the purpose, the material for the base is also selected. So, if you just need to align the walls and at the same time take up as little space as possible, you can make a base from timber and slats. If you plan to hide, for example, pipes or other communications, you can use an aluminum structural profile to make the base, which will allow you to create a frame at the desired distance from the wall.
Profile types
Today, manufacturers produce different ones. To choose the right material, you need to know its purpose.
- Mon. This is the name of the guide element. Designed for the manufacture of the contour of the crate. The part is made in the shape of the letter P. The width of the shelf is 5-10 cm, and the legs are 4 cm. The guide is attached not only to the walls, but also to the ceiling and floor.
- PS. This is a rack designed to be fixed to walls only. It differs from the guide by the presence of special two longitudinal grooves necessary to increase the rigidity of the part. The width of the shelf is 5-10 cm, and the legs are 5 cm.
- PP. This is how the product is marked. The product has three longitudinal grooves. Dimensions - standard 2.7x6.0 cm.
- PNP. The marking indicates that the product is a ceiling guide designed for the manufacture of contours of suspended structures. Dimensions - 2.8x2.7 cm.
- PA- arch element. It is necessary for the manufacture of arched doorways.
- PU. This is a corner element, with the help of which not only the corners of the structure in the room are created, but also built-in wardrobes, partitions. To do this, manufacturers produce internal and external corner products. All corner elements are perforated and have an angle of 85°.
- Crab. This is an element in the form of a cross for connecting four profiles at one point.
Why know the above information? Then, if the profiles are chosen incorrectly, the structure is unlikely to turn out to be strong and durable, and the fastening of the frame to the wall is reliable.
Necessary tools and materials
To assemble a metal structure, it is necessary to prepare not only the material, but also a set of tools.
The material is:
- Profile products of different types (ceiling, rack, guide).
- Connectors to join segments.
- Hangers.
- Dowels, self-tapping screws.
- Connectors "crab". This is an element that fastens the profiles in those places where they intersect.
- If the frame is made of wood, you will need a wooden beam, self-tapping screws.
The necessary tools for a wooden base are saws, a jigsaw, a hammer.
If the frame is from a profile, you will need to work:
- Levels.
- Angle, tape measure.
- Screwdriver.
- Impact drill or hammer drill.
- Metal scissors.
Hardware
To attach suspensions and guides, it is necessary to select hardware, taking into account the material from which the surface is made.
For example:
- For concrete walls, you will need to use dowels 6x60 or 6x40 (depending on the quality of the surface).
- If the crate is wooden, you will need screws 6x80, 6x70 mm. The head of the screws should be the flattest, then less putty will be needed to level the surface.
- Self-tapping screws are needed to connect all the metal elements of the base. For mounting drywall to a metal profile, experts recommend using self-tapping screws made of galvanized steel 3.5x25 mm with frequent threads. It is best to purchase white products, since black ones break more often.
- The drop-down dowels securely attach the rails to the plasterboard ceiling.
Sequence of work
In order for the end result to please with a beautiful view of the walls, you need to know some of the subtleties of how to make a frame for a plasterboard wall. Work does not begin with the creation of a foundation, but with a careful study of the premises. You need to determine how vertical the walls are.
You need to start manufacturing the structure from the side that is more tilted inward. If this is the bottom, then you need to start from the floor: fix the guide and from it using a laser level (and if you have to start from the ceiling, then using a regular plumb line), mark the location of the upper element and immediately fix it.
Thus, the main elements are already installed, now it's the turn to install the racks. First of all, the extreme parts are mounted, connecting them to the guides. After that, every 0.6 m you need to draw vertical lines. The figure of 0.6 m depends on the size of the sheet, since the most common is 1.2 m, then its length must be divided in half so that the sheet can be fixed in the middle. This is done as follows: mark the ceiling guide and from it, using a plumb line, lower the points onto the element located on the floor. Now it remains to connect the dots - and the markup is ready.
Along the resulting lines, you need to mount direct suspensions, to which then attach the racks. In order for all racks to be arranged vertically, it is necessary to stretch a thread between the extreme elements in several rows (3-5), put each guide along it and then fix it to the suspensions.
To create a reliable and durable structure, the drywall frame on the wall must be "checkered". This design is obtained when the transverse and longitudinal parts are connected by crabs.
Installation of a wooden base
Only dry timber can be used for work. In no case should you build a drywall frame on a wall from freshly sawn timber: over time, it will begin to dry out, it will definitely “lead”, and the wall created from the sheets will collapse.
Before starting work, it is necessary to treat all wooden elements of the future structure with a moisture-proof agent. Particular attention is paid to the places where the cut was made.
The slats for the manufacture of the crate should be about 4 cm wide. In those places where there will be joints of drywall sheets, you need to use slats 8 cm wide. If there is no material of this width, you can install the frame on the walls using a double rail. To fix the structure to wooden walls, self-tapping screws are used, to brick or concrete - dowels.
metal base
The profile frame is much stronger than the wooden one. Benefits include indicators such as:
- Fire safety.
- Ease of installation.
- Resistance to decay, deformation.
- Less weight.
Given this, most consumers prefer the metal base. What do you need to install drywall on the wall?
Plasterboard sheathing
A few practical tips from experts will help you properly install drywall sheets:
- Before proceeding to the frame, you need to make sure that all communications are in good condition.
- If it is planned to install a heater, then first it is laid between the racks.
- Plasterboard canvases are fixed with self-tapping screws so that their heads are slightly, by 1 mm, sunk deep.
- If work is carried out in a room with high humidity, it is necessary to use only moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets.
- Sheets cannot be joined end-to-end - there should be a gap of about 2 mm between them.
- The beginning of the fastening of the canvases is the middle of the wall.
- Where there are no chamfers on the sheets, you can make them yourself. To do this, it is enough to cut the edge at an angle.
Features of joining drywall sheets
Horizontally, each next canvas is laid so as to avoid the appearance of a long longitudinal line. Specialists call this laying of canvases “with a shift” or “in a row”. The minimum offset of the web in relation to the one located below is 40 cm, the maximum is the middle of the sheet. If you do not shift the sheets, cracks will certainly appear on the seams over time.
If the wall is to be lined with two layers of drywall, then it is necessary to shift not only horizontal, but also vertical seams: the sheet that is installed on top must be placed so that the joint of the previous one is in its middle.
Sheet fastening
The work is carried out as follows:
- The sheet must be pressed against the frame and secured.
- When sinking a self-tapping screw into the canvas, you must not overdo it so as not to break through it.
- The self-tapping screw must enter the sheet strictly perpendicular. This will protect the cardboard layers from damage, since the rigidity of the structure depends on their integrity, and hence strength.
The modern interior of apartments is very often combined with various elements: partitions, niches, columns, etc. Due to its widespread use in finishing works drywall, the creation of such structures does not cause difficulties even for people who have nothing to do with construction. All this can be easily done with your own hands, which only increases the popularity of such design solutions.
Curly partitions are the most popular among drywall constructions.
This barrier will help you:
- create a unique room design;
- visually and functionally divide the room into zones: kitchen, dining room, etc.;
- create additional walls in which you can build niches or shelves. This will save space and make it more practical.
These advantages allow using even a small partition to shift the accents in the room, which will make it possible to look at it from a new angle.
Structural solutions
A partition made of drywall can have different design elements. The most common types of drywall partitions are:
- curly. They are the most popular type. With their help, you can not only divide the room into zones, but also focus on some aspects of the interior, thanks to different figures on the wall.
- semicircular. The semicircular design allows you to focus on the partition itself, as it itself acts as a decorative element.
- straight. They are the easiest option. Suitable for absolutely any room. Most often they have a purely practical function for dividing a room into certain zones.
In addition, any type of structure described above may contain the following elements:
- niches. They can be used to decorate a partition or for purely practical purposes - to place important things in everyday life;
- windows or openings. Through such walls it is very convenient to transfer food or other things. Very often used in kitchen partitions that separate the cooking area from the dining area;
- curly elements of the type of arches or rounded shapes. You can also make a relief design. They allow you to completely change the look of the room, shift the accents and completely change the perception of the room.
A partition made of drywall can also be:
- with backlight. Since it is quite simple to make additional lighting, this design is very common. In the house there is always a place devoid of sufficient lighting. Having built a partition with lighting, you can easily solve this problem;
- without illumination. It is much less common, since with lighting you can achieve a much greater design effect.
Construction scheme
Any partition that is made of drywall must be pre-thought out. For starters, you should do design drawing or diagram.
The scheme is created according to the following algorithm:
- we put on a sheet of paper the perimeter of the room in which the partition will be located;
- we determine the location of the partition, namely, which wall it will be placed against;
- specify the dimensions of the structure - height, length and width.
Note! In order to provide for all the nuances of the upcoming work, two drawings should be created. On one you need to draw a partition in the room. On the second - in detail only one partition with an indication of all the parts it contains: niches, shelves, lighting, as well as other curly elements.
To do this, in a separate figure:
- draw the planned partition to scale;
- put on the drawing the dimensions of the shelves or niches;
- indicate the location of the additional lighting.
According to the drawn drawing, you can easily and simply calculate the amount of materials required in the work. Having made an accurate calculation and indicating all the parameters in the drawing, it will be much easier to make a drywall construction with your own hands.
Tools needed for the job
The following tools will help you quickly and efficiently make any drywall construction:
- perforator and drill with a set of drills;
- building level;
- pencil and tape measure;
- metal scissors;
- drywall knife;
- roller with needles;
- sandpaper.
You will also need the following materials:
- metal profiles - guides and rack-mount;
- drywall sheets - moisture resistant (if we make a partition in the kitchen or bathroom) or standard (if we mount the partition in any other room of the apartment);
- self-tapping screws, screws and dowels;
- sickle ribbon;
- putty and primer deep penetration.
These tools and materials will help you create unsurpassed in beauty and functionality partitions with your own hands.
Preparation for work
The curly partition for its installation requires preliminary preparatory work. At this stage, you need to do the following:
- remove all irregularities, pieces of falling plaster, etc. from the surface of the wall to which the partition will adjoin;
- pull out nails and other elements protruding from the wall;
- prime the work surface;
- draw markings on the wall, floor and ceiling for attaching guide profiles to it;
Necessary tools
Now everything is ready to start the construction of the metal frame.
Making a frame
The frame for the partition with your own hands is done as follows:
- We apply profile guides to the lines drawn on the wall and drill holes in them. When creating a semicircular wall, we cut the profile with scissors and fasten it in a circle. Do not forget to use the level to get an even frame;
- we fix them on dowels and screws;
Note! Start mounting the frame from the floor and ceiling.
- we perform similar manipulations on the ceiling;
- then we connect the ceiling and floor structures with each other with guide profiles. First we fix the profile to the wall, and only then we mount the rest of the "ribs";
- in the presence of niches, we make transverse fasteners using rack profiles;
- for the strength of the structure, it is necessary to install transverse ceilings using jumpers. So you will achieve greater structural rigidity;
- curly elements, windows and arches are formed from profiles that were cut with metal scissors.
Curly frame element
Note! We cut only one side of the profile with scissors.
- We fasten the cut “UW” profile with dowels with screws only after giving it the necessary position.
When the frame is ready, you can proceed with the installation of drywall.
Installation of drywall sheets
For curly partitions, the plasterboard sheathing process consists of two stages:
- sheathing of straight sections;
- sheathing of curly elements.
A straight wall or partition will be sheathed in a similar way:
- we make markings on a drywall sheet of the required size with our own hands;
- cut out pieces from sheets;
- fasten them with self-tapping screws to the frame.
- in the same way we install the sheets in the cavity of the niches.
To create curved and curly structural elements, drywall will need to be bent. With the knowledge of technology, all this is easily done with your own hands.
There are two ways to give the sheets the desired shape:
- wet. Here you should use a roller with spikes. We pass the roller over the surface of the sheet, and then moisten it with plenty of water. We leave such a sheet to soak in moisture for a while. Then carefully attach it to the curved frame, bending as needed. We fasten the sheet to the screws;
Note! The second side of the sheet should not get wet and soften.
- dry. In this case, perpendicular cuts must be made on one side of the sheet. They must go through equal segments. Next, we attach the sheet to the frame, bending it during installation.
Wet and dry methods
Note! The second side of the sheet should remain intact.
When the entire structure is sheathed with plasterboard sheets, you can proceed to the final finishing of the partition.
final stage
At the final stage, you need to do the following with your own hands:
- attach a sickle tape to all joints;
- putty places for screwing screws and joints between sheets;
- wipe all the bumps with sandpaper;
- cover the partition with a deep penetration primer;
- apply a thin final layer of putty. If it came out a little uneven, wipe the surface with sandpaper.
Almost finished partition
If you follow the instructions correctly in the final, you will get an impeccably even and smooth design.
Now it remains only to do the final finishing. To do this, you can use wallpaper, paint, decorative stucco, artificial stone, etc. Ultimately partition sure to be a great addition to your interior decor.
With the help of drywall, you can create unique designs, align walls or mount a false ceiling. Most of the above types of work require the arrangement of a special crate. But, how to make a frame for drywall? We will talk about this now.
The frame is an important component of the drywall construction, on which the strength and durability of the GKL fasteners generally depend.
metal or wood
Before you make a frame for drywall, decide on the material. Today, metal and wood are used.
Modern steel profiles are much more popular than wooden structures, and the point here is far from the price. The metal profile is easy to work with, stronger and more durable.
If you decide to use a tree, give preference to conifers.
Wooden crates are usually used in exceptionally dry and warm rooms in which there is no sharp temperature drop. Do not forget about the special processing of wood, which will protect the timber from rotting, mold and fungi. Unfortunately, wood is not as durable as a metal profile, but despite this it is an environmentally friendly and high-quality material.
Instruments
Before making a frame for drywall, prepare the necessary set of tools:
So, you will need:
- Scissors for metal (hacksaw for metal). Due to the fact that you will have to cut or saw a profile, you simply cannot do without a cutting tool.
- Screwdriver.
- Building level and pencil.
- Perforator (required for mounting to a concrete base).
For a wooden crate you need:
- jigsaw or saw;
- nails;
- a hammer;
- building level;
- perforator.
Types of metal profile
The answer to the question of how to properly make a frame for drywall from a metal profile would be incomplete without considering the types of profiles for the crate.
- PS (CW) - designed for vertical partition walls. The PS-profile has one remarkable feature - holes are made along its entire length, which greatly facilitate the laying of engineering communications. PS-profiles are produced with different section sizes: 50x50, 75x50 and 100x50 mm.
- PN (UW) - guide profile for PS, has several options for sections: 50x40, 75x40 and 100x40 mm.
Before you make a frame for drywall on the wall, stock up on fasteners:
- dowels;
- brackets;
- suspensions;
- self-tapping screws and screws;
- anchors.
We collect the crate
Before you make a frame for a drywall wall, mark up.
markup
Do-it-yourself marking instructions:
- Stepping back from the wall 5-6 cm (usually the amount of indentation is taken from the thickness of the insulation that will be laid in the crate), draw a line parallel to the surface. This line will indicate the thickness of the entire wall, including the thickness of the plasterboard, so be careful.
- From the drawn line, step back a distance equal to the thickness of the GKL - this will be the edge of your base.
- Using a plumb line, transfer the markup to the ceiling.
Attention!
A wooden crate from a bar is assembled according to the same principle as the basis for a gypsum board from a metal profile.
Remember that incorrectly applied markings can lead to fatal consequences. At best, you have to disassemble the structure and redo the frame.
Mounting
After marking, the assembly of the crate begins.
- Fasten the guide profile. To do this, you need to take the guide rails and attach them along the line, first to the floor, then to the ceiling. This is done using dowels with a step of no more than 60 cm.
- Hangers. After installing the guide, attach suspensions over the entire working surface, which will later be needed for mounting the rack rails.
- Mounting racks. To do this, you need rack rails that are mounted perpendicular to the guide profile. For greater stability, we fix them with pre-prepared suspensions.
Advice!
If you want to strengthen the wall, you can run studs perpendicular to the studs, 2-3 strips will be enough.
The work of creating a frame from a metal profile for drywall is perceived by many as a very simple event that does not require certain rules to be followed. Because of this, situations are obtained in which the surface created from the GKL plates turns out to be with numerous shortcomings, to eliminate which a lot of effort and financial costs have to be applied.
Of course, the work itself is not that difficult. Literally everyone can cope, but there are some nuances that must be taken into account. And also correctly carry out the installation steps.
There are two main materials for the construction of the crate - a wooden beam and a metal profile. It is the second type of material that is most preferred.
The metal profile is such due to certain characteristics:
- For the most part (with proper storage and transportation) - it does not have any drawbacks (curvature). But, if you choose a bar, you will have to sort out a lot of material.
- Metal elements can be used in almost any room, and do not pay attention to temperature fluctuations. This means that the surface will not be deformed.
- Galvanized parts can last a very long time. Therefore, they can be used even in rooms with a lot of moisture. Also, they are not affected by fungi and rot.
- For fastening the profile, there are various elements that allow you to create a reliable and strong structure.
Material selection
It is worth paying attention to the choice of the necessary materials, especially when choosing the details of the crate. There are the following types of profile that allow you to create a frame for plasterboard walls:
- Guide (PN). This element is designed to create a structure that will serve to secure the rack profile. It is from the fixing of this type of profile that it will depend on how the surface will look in the future.
- Rack (PS). It is used to create crates or other partitions. It can be given various curvilinear options.
A separate place is occupied by details for ceiling structures: ceiling profile (PP), ceiling guide profile (PNP).
You should also consider using the following additional elements:
- Corner profile (PU). Maybe external and internal.
- Arched profile (PA). Used to create arches.
- Suspension (U-shaped). It is used for fastening the structure to walls and ceilings.
- Connector ("Crab"). It is very convenient for fastening together perpendicular parts.
- Extension. Connects different segments of the profile.
- Dowel and self-tapping screws (for metal).
It is at this stage that many people make a very important mistake. It lies in the fact that they acquire a non-specialized profile. Namely, they confuse ceiling elements with wall elements.
Required tool
Naturally, fastening a metal frame under drywall is simply impossible without the use of special tools. But do not worry, every home master will always have everything you need.
What will be required:
- Jigsaw with metal files or scissors for cutting galvanized steel.
Attention! It is immediately worth noting that you can not use the grinder. The reason is pretty simple. The torque of such a tool is very high, and the galvanized profile is quite thin. Because of this, there is a rapid heating of the cut material and its deformation. And also the destruction of the protective layer and the appearance of rust will follow.
- Plumb and level (or more modern electronic devices). Only the use of these devices allows you to create an even frame from a metal profile.
- Ruler, tape measure and pencil (marker).
- Drills or puncher to create holes in the walls. Their choice depends on the surface material. And also do not forget about drills or drills.
- A set of screwdrivers, or better a screwdriver. With the necessary skills, you can also use a drill (setting the desired power).
Installation work
Everything that needs to be prepared, the tool is waiting in the wings. It seems that work can already begin. After all, the sooner you start, the sooner it will end, but you should not rush. First you need to decide what activities will be carried out. The installation of the frame has features for different types of work.
The installation of a frame for creating partitions from plasterboard has significant differences from the installation of a crate for plasterboard walls Walls
In principle, working with walls is considered the easiest. It is with her that it is best to start, if this does not contradict the stages of repair work.
Advice! To avoid unpleasant (rattling) noise that may occur after the installation of a metal crate, a sealing tape is glued between the surface and the guides.
Getting Started:
Suspensions have a feature to go beyond the profile. That is, protruding "ears" are formed. They need to be bent. This should be done inward so as not to interfere with the installation of GCR boards.
If it is required to give the frame for drywall additional rigidity, then horizontal screeds are used for this. They are easy to make from the profile itself, which is cut into the desired size (with a small margin). Pay attention to their fastening.
They often do this:
- Scissors for metal cut the ends of the profile along the ribs.
- The ribs are bent. Through them, the screeds are screwed to the racks. The central section - remains without a self-tapping screw, otherwise a hillock will turn out.
Partitions
These structures are created to separate the premises, as well as to completely separate one from the other. In principle, the scheme of work is similar to the one presented above, but there are some technical features.
Features of creating door and window openings
A frame made of a metal profile for drywall often needs to create various openings in it. Doors are handled as follows:
- The door frame is being assembled. In which, previously, the door leaf is hung. To set the necessary gaps (after all, the box is not fixed) - insert wedges from fiberboard or hardboard.
- Now they begin to expose racks that are adjacent to the doorway. They are placed vertically and reinforced with wooden beams. Mounting foam is applied and the box is attracted with self-tapping screws.
On a note! The described method is quite laborious, it is more suitable for cases where the doorway was not provided in advance. Therefore, it is better to spend time on preliminary calculations and markings, as well as determine the size of the door leaf. Then you can immediately create a doorway (with the necessary margin) and quickly install a door into it.
When creating a light window, there are such features:
- It is necessary to install two horizontal jumpers (top and bottom).
- Vertical racks are best done with wooden mortgages.
Measures to strengthen the frame and increase sound insulation
It should be noted that a simple crate does not have sufficient rigidity. Therefore, if necessary, then you need to give it reinforcement. This is usually necessary in rooms where furniture will be placed on the walls.
The easiest ways:
- Instead of SP and NP, 50 mm each, they take 75 or 100 mm.
- Reduce the step between the racks.
- Vertical elements are installed in pairs.
- Mortgages in the form of a wooden bar are used.
On a note! If possible, then a completely different option is used. Namely - drywall on the frame is laid in two layers. In this case, overlap the seams of the first layer.
Also pay attention to soundproofing. The fact is that the hollow frame gives a significant sound effect.
- Mineral wool is laid in the frame. Therefore, they are immediately determined with a step of vertical racks and jumpers.
- When creating partitions, a double-sided frame is made. Then each GKL slab is attached to its side of the crate.
Any work requires care, even if it seems that making a frame for drywall is very simple.
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